# Patent

## Title
Methods and formulations for curling hair

## Abstract

Methods, formulations, and kits for curling and/or preventing damage in the curling of hair are disclosed herein. Treatment with one or more hydroxide-containing agents in combination with one or more active agents can reshape hair, without the need for sulfur-containing reducing agents. To impart curl to hair, the active agent(s) and the hydroxide-containing agent(s) are applied either as a combined formulation or as separate formulations which are applied simultaneously. Use of the active agent along with a hydroxide-containing agent allows the level of curl imparted to hair to be controlled, as compared to the natural amount of curl, if any, in the untreated hair.

## Background
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application claims priority to U.S. application Ser. No. 15/282,795, filed Sep. 30, 2016, which claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 62/380,020, filed Aug. 26, 2016, and to U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 62/361,366, filed Jul. 12, 2016, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.


FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention generally relates to formulations and methods for curling hair, particularly for imparting and controlling a level of curl to the hair.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Hair consists of many long, parallel chains of amino acids. These chains, or polymers, of amino acids are bound to each other via 1) hydrogen bonding, 2) salt bridges between acid and base groups, and 3) disulfide bonds.
At alkaline pH, the disulfide bonds in hair can be broken (Dombrink et al., Chem Matters, 1983, page 8). For example, lye-based relaxers contain hydroxide ions, which can attack disulfide linkages. Cleavage of disulfide bonds by the lye-based relaxer achieves straightening of the hair by changing the relative positions of polypeptide chains. Rinsing the hair and/or applying a neutralizing formulation complete the straightening process.
While lye and other alkali-based relaxers are highly effective at relaxing and straightening hair, they can result in reduction of hair strength and potential loss of hair through breakage. Lye and alkali-based relaxers are not used to perm hair.
Traditional perms use thiol or sulfur-containing reducing agents followed by a second oxidizing step, typically using hydrogen peroxide, to set the hair. These thiol or sulfur-containing reducing agents are foul smelling and, if not properly rinsed between the steps, can damage and/or brake hair.
Thus, there is a need for hair curling formulations and treatments, which provide improved conditioning benefit for hair when the hair is curled. There is a need to provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to curled hair.
There is also a need for hair curling formulations and treatments that afford the ability to tune or select the level of curl imparted to hair.
There is a further need for hair curling formulations and treatments that can be applied to the hair as a single formulation.
Additionally, there is a need for hair curling formulations without a foul-smelling thiol or sulfur-containing agent, or related odors therefrom.
Therefore, it is an object of this invention to provide improved curling formulations and curling methods for repairing and/or strengthening curled hair.
It also is an object of this invention to provide curling formulations and methods that can be used to tune or select the level of curl imparted to hair.
It is a further object of this invention to provide hair curling formulations and treatments that can be applied to the hair as a single formulation, as well as formulations without a foul-smelling thiol or sulfur-based odor.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Formulations, kits, and methods for curling hair are described which include the use of hydroxide-containing agents or formulations thereof in combination with the use of active agents or formulations thereof. The formulations, kits, and methods can also be used to control the level of curl imparted to the hair during the curling process. In certain embodiments, the formulation for curling hair may be applied one or more times after a hair curling treatment to change the level of curl in the hair.
The methods described herein include the step of reshaping hair prior to, during, or following the application of any formulation containing one or more active agents and/or one or more hydroxide-containing agents.
The methods described herein reshape hair, without the need for sulfur-containing reducing agents or peroxide-based agents.
Active agent formulations, which contain one or more compounds that interact with keratin through one or more binding events (e.g., absorption, binding, etc.) and can also react with one or more nucleophiles, such as thiols, in the hair are described herein. “Binding” as used herein refers to the formation of covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds. The active agent formulations can also provide improved conditioning and provide long lasting moisturized and smooth feel without leaving the hair greasy, improve appearance (e.g., sheen), increase dry strength (tensile strength), ease combing of the hair when wet or dried, reduce hair breakage, or decrease frizz, or any combination thereof.
Traditional methods of curling hair do not use lye or alkali-based or hydroxide-containing agents, which are known hair relaxers/straighteners and which can result in reduction of hair strength and potential loss of hair through breakage. The curling methods disclosed herein apply to hair active agents in combination with hydroxide-containing agents (or formulations thereof). These methods curl hair and repair damage to the curled hair. Additionally, the curling methods described herein provide improved methods of styling hair, such as during a hair curling treatment.
Use of the one or more active agents permits control of the level of curl imparted to hair during a hair curling process and prevents damage caused by the hydroxide-containing agent(s) applied to the hair.
A combined formulation containing both the active agent and one or more hydroxide-containing agents is applied to the hair during a hair curling process or treatment. Alternatively, an active agent formulation concurrently with a formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents is applied during a hair curling process or treatment. The addition of the active agent(s) simultaneously with hydroxide-containing agents can be used to tune or control the level of curl imparted to hair during the curling process. The level of curl imparted can depend on the amount of active agent(s) used, which can be represented as a weight ratio of active agent present in the formulation or formulations applied to the hair to the amount of hydroxide-containing agent(s) present in a formulation applied to the hair during the hair curling process. Preferably, the formulations are applied simultaneously; optionally they are mixed just prior to application to form a combined formulation. Alternatively, the active agent and hydroxide-containing agents may be provided as a single, pre-mixed combined formulation.
The pH of the combined formulation is preferably at least about 9.5, more preferably at least about 10.5. In some embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 11 or greater, such as up to about 14. In some embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 10 or greater, such as up to about 14. When the formulations are mixed at the time of use, preferably, the amount of active agent formulation used does not lower the pH of the combined formulation to be below about a pH of 9.5 and more preferably does not lower the pH of the combined formulation below about a pH of 10.5.
The weight ratio of the hydroxide-containing agent formulation to the active agent formulation can be in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:5; 5:1 to 1:5; 4:1 to 1:4; or 3:1 to 1:3. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the hydroxide-containing agent formulation to the active agent formulation is in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:1; 5:1 to 1:1; 4:1 to 1:1; or 3:1 to 1:1. In some instances, the weight ratio is about 10:1, 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 or within about 10% of these ratios, preferably the weight ratio is about 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 or within about 10% of these ratios.
Instead of simultaneous application, the active agent formulations can be applied to the hair immediately following or shortly after (e.g. within 1-5 minutes) the application of the hydroxide-containing agents, or formulations thereof.
The curl imparted to the hair following a curling treatment method defined herein (referred to herein as “imparted curl”) can be maintained with no appreciable or substantially no appreciable change for a period. The treated hair retains curl when subjected to conditions, such as one or more wash cycles, under which it would not retain the curl absent treatment according to the methods described herein.
In some embodiments, the percentage of curl is reduced by less than about 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, or 50% of the imparted curl after about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50 or more wash cycles. In certain embodiments, the curl is retained with no appreciable or substantially no appreciable change after about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50 or more wash cycles.


DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
I. Definitions
Numerical ranges disclosed herein disclose individually each possible number in such range, as well as any sub-ranges and combinations of sub-ranges encompassed therein. For example, a carbon range (i.e., C1-C10) is intended to disclose individually every possible carbon value and/or sub-range encompassed within. For example, a carbon length range of C1-C10 discloses C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8, C9, and C10, as well as discloses sub-ranges encompassed within, such as C2-C9, C3-C8, C1-C5, etc. Similarly, an integer value range of 1-10 discloses the individual values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 10, as well as sub-ranges encompassed within. Further, a concentration range or weight percent range, such as from 1% to 2% by weight of the formulation, discloses the individual values and fractions thereof, such as 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.32%, 1.48% etc., as well as sub-ranges encompassed within.
The term “hair” refers to one or more than one strand of hair, as well as the natural components of hair, such as oil from a body. Hair also refers to virgin hair or processed hair, for example hair that has been exposed to hair waving or hair straightening formulations.
An “effective amount”, e.g., of the active agent described herein, refers to an amount of the active agent in a formulation which, when applied as part of a desired hair treatment achieves the desired result, such as desired level of curl, smoothness, little or no breakage, great or good feel, and/or healthy appearance by visual inspection.
“Cosmetically acceptable” refers to those compounds, materials, and formulations, which are, within the scope of sound medical judgment, suitable for use in contact with the tissues of human beings and animals without excessive toxicity, irritation, allergic response, or other problems or complications commensurate with a reasonable benefit/risk ratio. More specifically, cosmetically acceptable refers to a material, compound, or formulation, which is suitable for use in contact with the skin, scalp, or hair. Cosmetically acceptable materials are known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
“Shampoo” generally refers to a liquid or semi-solid formulation applied to the hair that contains detergent or soap for washing the hair.
“Conditioner” generally refers to a formulation (e.g., liquid, cream, lotion, gel, semi-solid) applied to the hair to soften the hair, smooth the hair, and/or change the sheen of the hair.
“Reshaping” generally refers to a deformation, such as mechanical deformation of the hair including, but not limited to rolling, braiding, and/or twisting of the hair. Reshaping hair, however, is not intended to refer to a deformation that results in straightening hair or straightened hair.
“Analog” and “Derivative” are used interchangeably and refer to a compound that possesses the same core as the parent compound, but differs from the parent compound in bond order, the absence or presence of one or more atoms and/or groups of atoms, and combinations thereof. The derivative can differ from the parent compound, for example, in one or more substituents present on the core, which may include one or more atoms, functional groups, or substructures. In general, a derivative can be imagined to be formed, at least theoretically, from the parent compound via chemical and/or physical processes.
“Electrophilic group” or “electrophilic moiety” are used interchangeably and refer to one or more functional groups or moieties that have an affinity for or attract electrons.
“Michael acceptor” is a species of electrophilic groups or moieties that participates in nucleophilic addition reactions. The Michael acceptor can be or can contain an α,β-unsaturated carbonyl-containing group or moiety, such as a ketone. Other Michael acceptors include pi-bonds, such as double or triple bonds conjugated to other pi-bond containing electron withdrawing groups, such as nitro groups, nitrile groups, and carboxylic acid groups or aryl groups.
“Alkyl” refers to the radical of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups, including straight-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups, branched-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, or cycloalkynyl (alicyclic) groups, alkyl substituted cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, or cycloalkynyl groups, and cycloalkyl substituted alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups. Unless otherwise indicated, a straight chain or branched chain alkyl has 30 or fewer carbon atoms in its backbone (e.g., C1-C30 for straight chain, C3-C30 for branched chain), more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 12 or fewer carbon atoms, and most preferably 8 or fewer carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the chain has 1-6 carbons. Likewise, preferred cycloalkyls have from 3-10 carbon atoms in their ring structure, and more preferably have 5, 6 or 7 carbons in the ring structure. The ranges provided above are inclusive of all values between the minimum value and the maximum value.
The term “alkyl” includes both “unsubstituted alkyls” and “substituted alkyls”, the latter of which refers to alkyl moieties having one or more substituents replacing hydrogen on one or more carbons of the hydrocarbon backbone. Such substituents include, but are not limited to, halogen, hydroxyl, carbonyl (such as a carboxyl, alkoxycarbonyl, formyl, or an acyl), thiocarbonyl (such as a thioester, a thioacetate, or a thioformate), alkoxyl, phosphoryl, phosphate, phosphonate, a phosphinate, amino, amido, amidine, imine, cyano, nitro, azido, sulfhydryl, alkylthio, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfamoyl, sulfonamido, sulfonyl, heterocyclyl, aralkyl, or an aromatic or heteroaromatic moiety.
Unless the number of carbons is otherwise specified, “lower alkyl” means an alkyl group, as defined above, but having from one to ten carbons, more preferably from one to six carbon atoms in its backbone structure. Likewise, “lower alkenyl” and “lower alkynyl” have similar chain lengths. Preferred alkyl groups are lower alkyls.
The alkyl groups may also contain one or more heteroatoms within the carbon backbone. Examples include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the alkyl group contains between one and four heteroatoms.
“Alkenyl” and “Alkynyl” refer to unsaturated aliphatic groups containing one or more double or triple bonds analogous in length (e.g., C2-C30) and possible substitution to the alkyl groups described above.
“Aryl” refers to 5-, 6- and 7-membered aromatic rings. The ring may be a carbocyclic, heterocyclic, fused carbocyclic, fused heterocyclic, bicarbocyclic, or biheterocyclic ring system, optionally substituted as described above for alkyl. Broadly defined, “Ar”, as used herein, includes 5-, 6- and 7-membered single-ring aromatic groups that may include from zero to four heteroatoms. Examples include, but are not limited to, benzene, pyrrole, furan, thiophene, imidazole, oxazole, thiazole, triazole, pyrazole, pyridine, pyrazine, pyridazine, and pyrimidine. Those aryl groups having heteroatoms in the ring structure may also be referred to as “heteroaryl”, “aryl heterocycles”, or “heteroaromatics”. The aromatic ring can be substituted at one or more ring positions with such substituents as described above, for example, halogen, azide, alkyl, aralkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, hydroxyl, alkoxyl, amino, nitro, sulfhydryl, imino, amido, phosphonate, phosphinate, carbonyl, carboxyl, silyl, ether, alkylthio, sulfonyl, sulfonamido, ketone, aldehyde, ester, heterocyclyl, aromatic or heteroaromatic moieties, —CF3, and —CN. The term “Ar” also includes polycyclic ring systems having two or more cyclic rings in which two or more carbons are common to two adjoining rings (the rings are “fused rings”) wherein at least one of the rings is aromatic, e.g., the other cyclic rings can be cycloalkyls, cycloalkenyls, cycloalkynyls, aryls and/or heterocycles, or both rings are aromatic.
“Alkylaryl” refers to an alkyl group substituted with an aryl group (e.g., an aromatic or hetero aromatic group).
“Heterocycle” or “heterocyclic” refers to a cyclic radical attached via a ring carbon or nitrogen of a monocyclic or bicyclic ring containing 3-10 ring atoms, and preferably from 5-6 ring atoms, containing carbon and one to four heteroatoms each selected from non-peroxide oxygen, sulfur, and N(Y) wherein Y is absent or is H, O, (C1-4) alkyl, phenyl or benzyl, and optionally containing one or more double or triple bonds, and optionally substituted with one or more substituents. The term “heterocycle” also encompasses substituted and unsubstituted heteroaryl rings. Examples of heterocyclic ring include, but are not limited to, benzimidazolyl, benzofuranyl, benzothiofuranyl, benzothiophenyl, benzoxazolyl, benzoxazolinyl, benzthiazolyl, benztriazolyl, benztetrazolyl, benzisoxazolyl, benzisothiazolyl, benzimidazolinyl, carbazolyl, 4aH-carbazolyl, carbolinyl, chromanyl, chromenyl, cinnolinyl, decahydroquinolinyl, 2H,6H-1,5,2-dithiazinyl, dihydrofuro[2,3-b]tetrahydrofuran, furanyl, furazanyl, imidazolidinyl, imidazolinyl, imidazolyl, 1H-indazolyl, indolenyl, indolinyl, indolizinyl, indolyl, 3H-indolyl, isatinoyl, isobenzofuranyl, isochromanyl, isoindazolyl, isoindolinyl, isoindolyl, isoquinolinyl, isothiazolyl, isoxazolyl, methylenedioxyphenyl, morpholinyl, naphthyridinyl, octahydroisoquinolinyl, oxadiazolyl, 1,2,3-oxadiazolyl, 1,2,4-oxadiazolyl, 1,2,5-oxadiazolyl, 1,3,4-oxadiazolyl, oxazolidinyl, oxazolyl, oxindolyl, pyrimidinyl, phenanthridinyl, phenanthrolinyl, phenazinyl, phenothiazinyl, phenoxathinyl, phenoxazinyl, phthalazinyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, piperidonyl, 4-piperidonyl, piperonyl, pteridinyl, purinyl, pyranyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolidinyl, pyrazolinyl, pyrazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyridooxazole, pyridoimidazole, pyridothiazole, pyridinyl, pyridyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrrolidinyl, pyrrolinyl, 2H-pyrrolyl, pyrrolyl, quinazolinyl, quinolinyl, 4H-quinolizinyl, quinoxalinyl, quinuclidinyl, tetrahydrofuranyl, tetrahydroisoquinolinyl, tetrahydroquinolinyl, tetrazolyl, 6H-1,2,5-thiadiazinyl, 1,2,3-thiadiazolyl, 1,2,4-thiadiazolyl, 1,2,5-thiadiazolyl, 1,3,4-thiadiazolyl, thianthrenyl, thiazolyl, thienyl, thienothiazolyl, thienooxazolyl, thienoimidazolyl, thiophenyl and xanthenyl.
“Heteroaryl” refers to a monocyclic aromatic ring containing five or six ring atoms containing carbon and 1, 2, 3, or 4 heteroatoms each selected from non-peroxide oxygen, sulfur, and N(Y) where Y is absent or is H, O, (C1-C8) alkyl, phenyl, or benzyl. Non-limiting examples of heteroaryl groups include furyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, triazinyl, oxazoyl, isoxazoyl, thiazolyl, isothiazoyl, pyrazolyl, pyrrolyl, pyrazinyl, tetrazolyl, pyridyl, (or its N-oxide), thienyl, pyrimidinyl (or its N-oxide), indolyl, isoquinolyl (or its N-oxide), quinolyl (or its N-oxide) and the like. The term “heteroaryl” can include radicals of an ortho-fused bicyclic heterocycle of about eight to ten ring atoms derived therefrom, a derivative derived by fusing a propylene, trimethylene, or tetramethylene diradical thereto. Examples of heteroaryl include, but are not limited to, furyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, triazinyl, oxazoyl, isoxazoyl, thiazolyl, isothiazoyl, pyraxolyl, pyrrolyl, pyrazinyl, tetrazolyl, pyridyl (or its N-oxide), thientyl, pyrimidinyl (or its N-oxide), indolyl, isoquinolyl (or its N-oxide), quinolyl (or its N-oxide), and the like.
“Halogen” refers to fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine.
The term “substituted” refers to all permissible substituents of the compounds described herein. In the broadest sense, the permissible substituents include acyclic and cyclic, branched and unbranched, carbocyclic and heterocyclic, aromatic and nonaromatic substituents of organic compounds. Illustrative substituents include, but are not limited to, halogens, hydroxyl groups, or any other organic groupings containing any number of carbon atoms, preferably 1-14 carbon atoms, and optionally include one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen grouping in linear, branched, or cyclic structural formats. Representative substituents include alkyl, substituted alkyl, alkenyl, substituted alkenyl, alkynyl, substituted alkynyl, phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, substituted heteroaryl, halo, hydroxyl, alkoxy, substituted alkoxy, phenoxy, substituted phenoxy, aroxy, substituted aroxy, alkylthio, substituted alkylthio, phenylthio, substituted phenylthio, arylthio, substituted arylthio, cyano, isocyano, substituted isocyano, carbonyl, substituted carbonyl, carboxyl, substituted carboxyl, amino, substituted amino, amido, substituted amido, sulfonyl, substituted sulfonyl, sulfonic acid, phosphoryl, substituted phosphoryl, phosphonyl, substituted phosphonyl, polyaryl, substituted polyaryl, C3-C20 cyclic, substituted C3-C20 cyclic, heterocyclic, substituted heterocyclic, aminoacid, peptide, and polypeptide groups.
Heteroatoms, such as nitrogen, may have hydrogen substituents and/or any permissible substituents of organic compounds described herein that satisfy the valences of the heteroatoms. “Substitution” or “substituted” includes the implicit proviso that such substitution is in accordance with permitted valence of the substituted atom and the substituent, and that the substitution results in a stable compound (a compound that does not spontaneously undergo transformation such as by rearrangement, cyclization, elimination, etc.)
“Polymer” refers to a molecule containing more than 10 monomer units.
“Water-soluble” generally means at least 50, 75, 100, 125, 150, 200, 225, or 250 g is soluble in 1 L of water at 25° C.
“Hydroxide-containing agents” refers to hydroxide-containing compounds commonly used in current commercially available hair relaxing formulations, such as lye and ammonium hydroxide. When these hydroxide-containing compounds are present in a hair curling formulation, the hydroxide ions produce a formulation with a high pH, such as pH ranging from 10 to 14, preferably a pH ranging from 12 to 14.
“Lye agents” or “alkali-based agents” are used interchangeably and these terms refer to alkali metal containing hydroxides (e.g. sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide).
“Thiol-containing reducing agent” refers to a reducing agent which contains at least one thiol (—SH) moiety. Exemplary thiol-containing agents include, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid, thioglycerol, or mercaptopropionic acid, or salts thereof, thioglycerin or derivatives thereof.
“Sulfur-containing reducing agent” refers to a reducing agent, which contains at least one sulfur (S) atom therein. Exemplary sulfur-containing agents include, for example, the thiol-containing agents listed above, alkali sulfites, and ammonia sulfites, or salts or derivatives thereof.
“Peroxide-based agent,” as used herein refers to an agent, which contains at least one peroxide group. An exemplary peroxide-based agent is hydrogen peroxide.
II. Active Agent Formulations
The active agent formulations disclosed herein are used in methods for curling hair in combination with a hydroxide-containing agent(s) or a formulation thereof. Additionally, the active agent formulations, when used during the curling process/treatment can be used to control, select, or tune the level of curl imparted to the hair, as compared to the hair's state prior to the treatment, e.g. its natural state. The level of curl imparted depends on the amount of one or more active agents applied, which can be represented as a weight ratio of the weight of one or more active agents (or the weight of the active agent formulation) to the weight of the hydroxide-containing formulation. Furthermore, the inclusion of one or more active agents reduces hair breakage and damage during the curling process.
The formulations contain one or more active agents (also referred to herein as “compounds”), which can be combined with one or more cosmetically acceptable carriers and/or excipients that are considered safe and effective to apply to human hair and/or the human scalp, and may be administered to an individual's hair without causing undesirable biological side effects, such as burning, itching, and/or redness, or a similar adverse reaction.
The active agent is typically present in the formulation in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt % to about 25 wt % of the formulation, such as from about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 wt % to 4 wt %, or from about 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %. Typically, the active agent may be present in the formulation in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % of the formulation.
The active agent is stable in aqueous solution for a period of at least 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 months or longer at pH of 3 to 8, preferably at a pH of 3 to 5, and at a temperature of about 25-30° C., preferably about 25° C. “Stable” as used herein with respect to shelf-life means that at least 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, or 95% of the active agent(s) is unchanged over the specified time period.
The active agent formulation generally does not contain a strong base, such as a nitrogen containing base (e.g. guanadine, amidine, or a derivative thereof).
A. Active Agent
The active agent contains at least one reactive moiety capable of reacting with and forming bonds with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or amine. The active agent optionally contains a linker group. The active agent can contain one or more acidic groups, such as carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids.
Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the reactive moieties, upon reaction with nucleophiles, such as thiol groups, on the hair follicle, form bonds that are stable, for example, hydrolytically stable. “Stable”, as used in reference to the bonds formed in the hair follicles means the bonds remain intact for at least one week, two weeks, three weeks, four weeks, one month, or two months or longer when exposed to water at a pH of 3 to 8, preferably at a pH of 3 to 5, at a temperature from about 5° C. to about 100° C., from about 20° C. to about 75° C., more preferably from about 20° C. to about 50° C., from about 25° C. to about 40° C., or from about 25° C. to about 30° C., and more preferably at a temperature of about 25° C.
It is preferred that the reaction between the reactive moieties and thiols occur around room temperature, for example, from about 15° C. to about 35° C., preferably from about 20° C. to about 30° C., more preferably from about 22° C. to about 27° C.
1. Active Agents Defined by Formula I
In some embodiments, the active agents have a structure according to Formula I:




wherein
A, B, C, and D are reactive moieties containing one or more charges,
R is a linker that contains two or more charges, wherein the charges are opposite to the charges on the reactive moieties, wherein n=1-100, preferably n=1-10, more preferably n=1; and each occurrence of p, q, r, and s is independently an integer from 0 to 25, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 2. The sum of p+q+r+s is equal to or greater than 2.
The reactive moieties may be present on any atom of the linker. In some embodiments, the reactive moieties are the same. In some embodiments, one or more of the reactive moieties is different.
In some embodiments, the reactive moieties are negatively charged and the linker has positively charged moieties. In other embodiments, the reactive moieties are positively charged and the linker has negatively charged moieties. Generally, the sum of the charges on the active agent of Formula I is zero, although stoichiometric imbalances may exist.
The reactive moieties on the active agents of Formula I are preferably linked via a linker R. The linker R, as used herein, refers to one or more polyfunctional, e.g. bifunctional molecules, trifunctional molecules, tetrafunctional molecules, etc., which can be used to ionically bind the two or more reactive moieties and which do not interfere with the reactive properties of the active agents. The reactive moieties may be attached to any part of linker R.
a. Linker R
In a preferred embodiment, in Formula I, n=1 and the linker R is not a polymer. The linker R can be a single atom, such as a heteroatom (e.g., O or S), a group of atoms, such as a functional group (e.g., amine, —C(═O)—, —CH2—), or multiple groups of atoms, such as an alkylene chain. Suitable linkers include but are not limited to oxygen, sulfur, carbon, boron, nitrogen, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, ether, amine, and an oligomer.
The linker R is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents including hydrogen, halogen, cyano, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, amine, hydroxy, formyl, acyl, carboxylic acid (—COOH), —C(O)R1, —C(O)OR1, carboxylate (—COO−), primary amide (e.g., —CONH2), secondary amide, —C(O)NR1R2, —NR1R2, —NR1S(O)2R2, —NR1C(O)R2, —S(O)2R2, —SR1, and —S(O)2NR1R2, sulfinyl group (e.g., —SOR1), and sulfonyl group (e.g., —SOOR1); wherein R1 and R2 may each independently be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl and heteroaryl; wherein each of R1 and R2 is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents selected from the group consisting of halogen, hydroxyl, cyano, nitro, amino, alkylamino, dialkylamino, alkyl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or aryloxy, aryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl optionally substituted with aryl or heteroaryl or ═O, or alkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, cycloalkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, heteroaryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, haloalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, carboxy, alkoxy, aryloxy, alkoxycarbonyl, aminocarbonyl, alkylaminocarbonyl and dialkylaminocarbonyl.
In some embodiments, the linker R may be an alkoxy, ether, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, or amine.
b. Active Agents According to Formula I
The active agent according to Formula I contains at least two reactive moieties that are capable of reacting with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or amine, to form covalent bonds. For example, the reactive moieties are capable of reacting with a thiol group in the hair to form a stable covalent bond. The reactive moiety is typically an electrophilic moiety capable of forming a salt with the linker. Alternately, the reactive moiety can be capable of reacting with a free radical.
The active agent according to Formula I contains at least two reactive moieties. However, the active agent may contain three, four, five, six, or greater than six reactive moieties.
The reaction between the reactive moiety and the thiol groups may be initiated at room temperature and pressure when the reactive moiety contacts a thiol group in the hair. In some embodiments, the reaction may require an initiator, such as heat, catalyst, basic conditions, or a free radical initiator. The rate of reaction between the reactive moiety and the thiol may be increased by changes in temperature, pH, and/or addition of one or more excipients, such as a catalyst; however, this is generally not required.
The two or more reactive moieties on the active agent can be the same. In some embodiments, the two or more reactive moieties are different.
In some embodiments, the reactive moieties are capable of undergoing a conjugate additional reaction. The reactive moieties can independently be or contain a Michael acceptor, a succinimidyl-containing group, a maleimido-containing group, azlactone, a benzoxazinone derivative, vinyl sulfone, vinyl sulfoximine, vinyl sulfonate, vinyl phosphonate, benzoxazinone, isocyanate, epoxide, an electrophilic moiety containing a leaving group, an electrophilic thiol acceptor, acrylic or acrylate group, a methacrylic or methacrylate group, a styrene group, an acryl amide group, a methacryl amide group, a maleate group, a fumarate group, an itaconate group, a vinyl ether group, an allyl ether group, an allyl ester group, a vinyl ester group, a sulfonate group, a phosphonate group, a sulfoxide group, a sulfonamide group, a sulfinimide group, a sulfinamide group, a sulfonimidate group, or a sulfonimidamide group.
In the preferred embodiments, each of reactive moieties A, B, C, and/or D when present independently contains a moiety selected from the group consisting of a vinyl sulfone, an acrylate group, a methacrylate group, a styrene group, an acryl amide group, a methacryl amide group, a maleate group, a fumarate group, and an itaconate group. Further, in the preferred embodiments, n=1 and the linker R is not a polymer. Optionally, all of the reactive moieties are the same. For example, in some embodiments all of the reactive moieties are maleate groups.
In some embodiments, the active agent according to Formula I has one of the following structures:




Active agents according to Formula I are further described in U.S. Pat. No. 9,095,518, which is incorporated herein by reference with respect to its disclosure of active agents.
2. Active Agents Defined by Formula II
In some other embodiments, the active agent is a polyfunctional compound that contains ionizable functional groups capable of forming ionic bonds and functional groups capable of forming a covalent bond with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or an amine.
The active agent may have the following Formula II:

(B)m—Z-(A)n  Formula II

wherein Z is a linker or is absent, m and n are each an integer independently selected from 1-6, provided that m+n is at least 2, B is a functional group capable of forming a covalent bond with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or amine group, and A is an ionizable functional group. Preferably, the linker Z is not a polymer. Optionally, the active agent is a simple salt of Formula II.

Suitable ionizable functional groups (group A) include, but are not limited to, acidic groups such as carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids, and basic groups, such as amines.
Suitable functional groups capable of forming a covalent bond with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or an amine, (group B) include, but are not limited to, Michael acceptors, alkyl halides or sulfonate esters. Exemplary active agents according to Formula II may contain thiol reactive functional groups, as group B, for example, such as those shown in the following moieties:




wherein R is independently selected from hydrogen, C1-6 alkyl, aryl, or an ionizable functional group; Z′ is oxygen (O), NH, or is absent; and G is carbon (C) and g is 1, or G is sulfur (S) and g is 2. In preferred embodiments, Z is a linker or is absent, the linker is not a polymer, and group B is a functional group capable of forming a covalent bond with a thiol or amine group and group B is independently selected from the group consisting of:





wherein R, Z′, G, and g are as previously defined.

a. Linker Z of Formula II
The linker Z, when present, can be or can contain an alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl or heteroaryl group. One or more of the carbon atoms in the alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, and aryl groups can be substituted with a heteroatom, yielding, for instance, an ether or alkylamine-containing linker.
The linker Z may be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be the same or different, including hydrogen, halogen, cyano, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, amine, hydroxy, oxo, formyl, acyl, carboxylic acid (—COOH), —C(O)R1, —C(O)OR1, carboxylate (—COO—), primary amide (e.g., —CONH2), secondary amide, —C(O)NR1R2, —NR1R2, —NR1S(O)2R2, —NR1C(O)R2, —S(O)2R2, —SR1, and —S(O)2NR1R2, sulfinyl group (e.g., —SOR1), and sulfonyl group (e.g., —SOOR1); wherein R1 and R2 may each independently be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl and heteroaryl; wherein each of R1 and R2 is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents selected from the group consisting of halogen, hydroxyl, oxo, cyano, nitro, amino, alkylamino, dialkylamino, alkyl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or aryloxy, aryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl optionally substituted with aryl or heteroaryl or oxo, or alkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, cycloalkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, heteroaryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, haloalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, carboxy, alkoxy, aryloxy, alkoxycarbonyl, aminocarbonyl, alkylaminocarbonyl, and dialkylaminocarbonyl.
In certain preferred embodiments, the linker Z is a C1-10 alkyl group which may be unsubstituted or substituted one or more times by oxo, hydroxyl, carboxyl, amido or amino. Preferably, the linker Z is a C1-4 alkyl group. The alkyl group may be linear or branched. The alkyl group may also be interrupted one or more times by a heteroatom selected from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen. An example of such a di-carboxylic acids having a heteroatom interruption is thiodipropionic acid. In other embodiments, the alkyl group may contain one or more double or triple bonds.
In some embodiments, the active agent according to Formula II has one of the following structures:




or is a simple salt of any of these structures.

In some embodiments, the active agent can be maleic acid, acrylic acid, methyl acrylic acid, or vinyl sulfonic acid; or a simple salt of any of these acids.
The term “simple salt,” as used herein, refers to a salt formed from the ionized form of an active agent of Formula II with a counterion group having a charge opposite to the charge of the ionizable functional group A. In preferred embodiments, a simple salt includes only one active agent and one counterion group (such as, for example, sodium maleate, sodium acrylate, sodium methylmethacrylate, or sodium vinylsulfonate). The counterion group can be a suitable ionized metal or an optionally substituted C1-C10, C1-C8, or C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkenyl, or C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkynyl counterion group covalently bound to an ionic moiety. For example, if the ionizable functional group A has a negative charge (e.g., —C(O)O—), then the counterion group has a positive charge (e.g. aminium group). The C1-C10, C1-C8, or C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkenyl, or C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkynyl counterion groups may be substituted one or more times by substituents as defined above with respect to linker Z. Optionally substituted C3-C10, C3-C8, or C3-C6 alkyl counterion groups may be linear, branched, or cyclic. The C1-C10, C1-C8, or C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkenyl, or C2-C10, C2-C8, or C2-C6 alkynyl counterion groups may also be interrupted one or more times along the backbone by a heteroatom selected from oxygen, sulfur, and/or nitrogen. In certain embodiments, the counterion groups do not contain a carbon-carbon double bond. In certain other embodiments, the counterion groups have a molecular weight of less than about 200 g/mol, 150 g/mol, 125 g/mol, 100 g/mol, 100 g/mol, 90 g/mol, 80 g/mol, 70 g/mol, 60 g/mol, 50 g/mol, 40 g/mol, 30 g/mol, or 20 g/mol.
Exemplary counterion groups include, but are not limited to, sodium ion, potassium ion, ethanolammonium, and allylammonium.
3. Active Agents Defined by Formula III
In certain embodiments, when the active agent of Formula II is a simple salt it can have a structure according to Formula III:

(B)m—Z-(A)n----(C)o  Formula III

wherein Z is a linker or is absent, m and n are each an integer independently selected from 1-6, provided that m+n is at least 2, B is a functional group capable of forming a covalent bond with a nucleophile, such as a thiol or amine group, A is an ionizable functional group as defined above, and C is an ionic group which is also capable of forming a covalent bond with a thiol and which has a charge opposite to that of ionizable group A. Group C is ionically bonded (denoted by dashed line) to group A. For ionic group C, o is an integer value independently selected from 1-6, such that the sum of charges of group C and ionizable group A is zero. Preferably, linker Z is not a polymer.

In active agents of Formula III, group C is an ionic group, which is ionically bonded to ionizable group A and is capable of forming a covalent bond with a thiol. Group C may be a Michael acceptor, a succinimidyl-containing group, a maleimido-containing group, azlactone, a benzoxazinone derivative, vinyl sulfone, vinyl sulfoximine, vinyl sulfonate, vinyl phosphonate, benzoxazinone, isocyanate, epoxide, an electrophilic moiety containing a leaving group, an electrophilic thiol acceptor, acrylic or acrylate group, a methacrylic or methacrylate group, a styrene group, an acryl amide group, a methacryl amide group, a maleate group, a fumarate group, an itaconate group, a vinyl ether group, an allyl ether group, an allyl ester group, a vinyl ester group, a sulfonate group, a phosphonate group, a sulfoxide group, a sulfonamide group, a sulfinimide group, a sulfinamide group, a sulfonimidate group, or a sulfonimidamide group. By way of example, group C can be an allylammonium or 2-(methacrylolyoxy)ethan-1-ammonium.
The active agents according to Formula III may contain thiol reactive functional groups which react with a nucleophile, such as a thiol, as group B. Exemplary thiol reactive functional groups include, but are not limited, to those shown in the following moieties:




wherein R is independently selected from hydrogen, C1-6 alkyl, aryl, or an ionizable functional group; Z′ is oxygen (O), NH, or is absent; and G is carbon (C) and g is 1, or G is sulfur (S) and g is 2. In preferred embodiments, Z is a linker or is absent, the linker is not a polymer, and group B is a functional group capable of forming a covalent bond with a thiol or amine group and group B is independently selected from the group consisting of:





wherein R, Z′, G, and g are as previously defined.

a. Linker Z of Formula III
The linker Z, when present, can be or can contain an alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl or heteroaryl group. One or more of the carbon atoms in the alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, and aryl groups can be substituted with a heteroatom, yielding, for instance, an ether or alkylamine-containing linker.
The linker Z may optionally be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be the same or different, including hydrogen, halogen, cyano, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, amine, hydroxy, oxo, formyl, acyl, carboxylic acid (—COOH), —C(O)R1, —C(O)OR1, carboxylate (—COO—), primary amide (e.g., —CONH2), secondary amide, —C(O)NR1R2, —NR1R2, —NR1S(O)2R2, —NR1C(O)R2, —S(O)2R2, —SR1, and —S(O)2NR1R2, sulfinyl group (e.g., —SOR1), and sulfonyl group (e.g., —SOOR1); wherein R1 and R2 may each independently be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl and heteroaryl; wherein each of R1 and R2 is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents selected from the group consisting of halogen, hydroxyl, oxo, cyano, nitro, amino, alkylamino, dialkylamino, alkyl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or aryloxy, aryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl optionally substituted with aryl or heteroaryl or oxo or alkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, cycloalkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, heteroaryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, haloalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, carboxy, alkoxy, aryloxy, alkoxycarbonyl, aminocarbonyl, alkylaminocarbonyl, and dialkylaminocarbonyl.
In certain preferred embodiments, the linker Z is a C1-10 alkyl group which may be unsubstituted or substituted one or more times by oxo, hydroxyl, carboxyl, amido or amino. Preferably, the linker Z is a C1-4 alkyl group. The alkyl group may be linear or branched. The alkyl group may also be interrupted one or more times by a heteroatom selected from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen. An example of such a di-carboxylic acids having a heteroatom interruption is thiodipropionic acid. In other embodiments, the alkyl group may contain one or more double or triple bonds.
In some embodiments, the active agent of Formula III has one of the following structures:




B. Excipients
Active agent formulations typically contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Cosmetically acceptable excipients include, but are not limited to, water, diluents, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, sunscreen agents, vitamins, dyes, hair coloring agents, proteins, amino acids, natural extracts such as plant extracts, humectants, fragrances, perfumes, oils, emollients, lubricants, butters, penetrants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, polymers, resins, hair fixatives, film formers, surfactants, detergents, emulsifiers, opacifying agents, volatiles, propellants, liquid vehicles, carriers, salts, pH adjusting agents (e.g., citric acid), neutralizing agents, buffers, hair conditioning agents, anti-static agents, anti-frizz agents, anti-dandruff agents, absorbents, and combinations thereof.
In certain embodiments, the active agent formulations are free of thickeners or substantially free of thickeners (i.e. viscosity increasing agents).
The formulations may contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. In some forms, the formulations contain the active agent, water, and optionally a preservative and/or fragrance.
The formulation for curling hair during or immediately following application of a hydroxide-containing formulation may be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, mousses, sprays, gels, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and the like. Suitable excipients, such as those listed above, are included, or excluded, from the formulation depending on the form of the formulation (e.g., liquid, hair spray, cream).
The one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients are typically present in an amount ranging from about 10 wt % to about 99.99 wt % of the formulation, preferably about 40 wt % to about 99 wt %, more preferably from about 80 wt % to about to about 99 wt %.
1. Surfactants
Surfactants are surface-active agents that are able to reduce the surface tension of water and cause the formulation to slip across or onto the hair. Surfactants can also be detergents or soap. The surfactants may be amphoteric, anionic, or cationic. Suitable surfactants that may be used in the formulation include, but are not limited to, 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid, almond amide, almond amidopropyl betaine, almond amidopropylamine oxide, aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate, aluminum lanolate, aminoethyl sulfate, aminopropyl lauryl glutamine, ammonium C12-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C12-15 pareth sulfate, ammonium C12-16 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C9-10 perfluoroalkylsulfonate, ammonium capryleth sulfate, ammonium capryleth-3 sulfate, ammonium monoglyceride sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium isothionate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium cumene sulfonate, ammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfate, ammonium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, ammonium isostearate, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth-12 sulfate, ammonium laureth-5 sulfate, ammonium laureth-6 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-7 sulfate, ammonium laureth-8 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-9 sulfate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium myreth sulfate, ammonium myristyl sulfate, ammonium nonoxynol-30 sulfate, ammonium nonoxynol-4 sulfate, ammonium oleate, ammonium palm kernel sulfate, ammonium polyacrylate, ammonium stearate, ammonium tallate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, amp-isostearoyl gelatin/keratin amino acids/lysine hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, amp-isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen, apricot kernel oil PEG-6 esters, apricot amide, apricot amidopropyl betaine, arachideth-20, avocadamide, avocadamidopropyl betaine, babassuamide, babassuamidopropyl betaine, babassuamidopropylamine oxide, behenalkonium chloride, behenamide, behenamide, behenamidopropyl betaine, behenamine oxide, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, a polyoxyether of lauryl alcohol or ceteareth-20, or combinations thereof.
Suitable anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, those containing carboxylate, sulfonate, and sulfate ions. Examples of anionic surfactants include sodium, potassium, ammonium of long chain alkyl sulfonates and alkyl aryl sulfonates such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates, such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates, such as sodium bis-(2-ethylthioxyl)-sulfosuccinate; and alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate. Cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium compounds such as benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, stearyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, polyoxyethylene and coconut amine. Examples of nonionic surfactants include ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol myristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, sorbitan acylate, sucrose acylate, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-400 monolaurate, polyoxyethylene monolaurate, polysorbates, polyoxyethylene octylphenylether, PEG-1000 cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene tridecyl ether, polypropylene glycol butyl ether, Poloxamer® 401, stearoyl monoisopropanolamide, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated tallow amide. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium N-dodecyl-β-alanine, sodium N-lauryl-β-iminodipropionate, myristoamphoacetate, lauryl betaine and lauryl sulfobetaine.
More than one surfactant may be included in the formulation.
The surfactants are optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the formulation, preferably about 1% to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
2. Emollients
Emollient refers to a material that protects against wetness or irritation, softens, soothes, coats, lubricates, moisturizes, protects, and/or cleanses the skin. Suitable emollients for use in the formulations include, but are not limited to a silicone compound (e.g., dimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyol or a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone/vinyldimethicone cross polymer, cyclopentasiloxane polysilicone), polyols such as sorbitol, glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butane diol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, xylitol; ethylhexyl palmitate; a triglyceride such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and fatty acid ester such as cetearyl isononanoate or cetyl palmitate. In a specific embodiment, the emollient is dimethicone, amidodimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, potassium dimethicone PEG-7 panthenyl phosphate, or a combination thereof. More than one emollient may be included in the formulation.
The emollient is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
3. Emulsifiers
The formulations may also contain one or more emulsifiers. Suitable emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, copolymers of an unsaturated ester and styrene sulfonate monomer, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl ester, polyoxyethylene glycol ether of cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate-20, ceteareth-20, lecithin, glycol stearate, polysorbate-60, or polysorbate-80, or combinations thereof. More than one emulsifier may be included in the formulation.
The emulsifier is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 15% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
4. Preservatives
One or more preservatives may be included in the formulations to prevent microbial growth in the formulations. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin or ethylhexylglycerin or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the formulation. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldehyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various), Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol).
The preservative is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the formulation. Preferably, the formulations are paraben free.
5. Conditioning Agents
One or more conditioning agents may be included in the formulations. Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, silicone-based agents (e.g., silicone quaternium-8), panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat and/or soy protein, amino acids (e.g. wheat amino acids), rice bran wax, meadowfoam seed oil, mango seed oil, grape seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, aloe leaf extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cyclopentasiloxane, quaternium-91, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
The conditioning agent(s) is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.05% to about 3% by weight of the formulation.
6. Diluents
Diluent, as used herein, refers to a substance(s) that dilutes the active agent. Water is the preferred diluent. The formulations typically contains greater than one percent (wt) water, preferably greater than five percent (wt) water, more preferably greater than 50% (wt) water, and most preferably greater than 80% (wt) water. Alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, may be used at low concentrations (about 0.5% by weight of the formulation) to enhance hair or skin penetration and/or reduce odor.
7. Viscosity Modifying Agents
The formulations described herein are preferably low viscosity formulations having flow properties of readily flowing liquids at standard temperature and pressure, such as similar to the properties of water or milk. Optionally, the viscosity of the combined formulation is more viscous but still flowable at standard temperature and pressure, such as a viscosity similar to shampoo.
The formulations optionally contain one or more viscosity modifying agents.
In certain embodiments, the active agent formulations and/or combined formulations are free of thickeners or substantially free of thickeners (i.e. viscosity increasing agents). For example, an active agent formulation and/or combined formulation that is substantially free of thickeners may contain one or more thickeners in an amount that does not increase the viscosity for the formulation compared to the same formulation in the absence of the thickeners. An active agent formulation and/or combined formulation that is substantially free of thickeners may contain less than about 5 wt %, 4 wt %, 3 wt %, 2 wt %, or 1 wt % of one or more thickeners present in the formulation. In certain embodiments, the active agent formulations and/or combined formulations have less than about 1 wt % of one or more thickeners present, such as less than about 0.9 wt %, less than about 0.8 wt %, less than about 0.7 wt %, less than about 0.6 wt %, less than about 0.5 wt %, less than about 0.4 wt %, less than about 0.3 wt %, less than about 0.2 wt %, or less than about 0.1 wt % of one or more thickeners in the formulation. Classes of thickeners include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants, such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such as disteareth-75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, and combinations thereof.
8. Antioxidants
The formulations may contain one or more antioxidants. Examples include, but are not limited to, tocopheryls, BHT, ascorbic acid, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, carotenoids, resveratrol, triethyl citrate, arbutin, kojic acid, tetrahexydecyl ascorbate, superoxide dismutase, zinc, sodium metabisulfite, lycopene, ubiquinone, and combinations thereof.
9. Opacifying Agents
The formulations may contain one or more opacifying agents. Opacifying agents are added to the formulations to make them opaque. Suitable opacifying agents include, but are not limited to, glycol distearate and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
C. Properties of the Active Agent Formulations
1. Creams
In certain embodiments, the active agent formulation may be in the form of a cream. The cream typically includes the active agent of Formulae I, II, or III in a suitable carrier. The cream may contain combinations of the active agents. The active agent may be included in any suitable concentration. Typical concentrations of the active agent in the cream range from small amounts such as approximately 0.05 wt % to about 25 wt % of the formulation, such as from about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 wt % to 4 wt %, or from about 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %. Typically, the active agent may be present in the formulation in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % of the formulation. Preferably, the cream contains the active agent in a concentration ranging from 0.1% (wt) to 5% (wt), more preferably from 0.1% wt to 3% (wt). While greater concentrations of active agent could be present in the cream, they are generally not needed to achieve the desired results.
Additionally, the cream may include an oil, a hair-conditioning agent, and/or a thickener. The cream may also include a fragrance, a plant extract, and/or a surfactant. The cream may be packaged in a tube, tub, bottle, or other suitable container.
When the active agent formulation in the form of a cream is combined with a hydroxide-containing agent formulation (e.g. mixed to form a combined formulation or applied simultaneously to the hair), a precipitate containing a metal ion is typically not formed. Preferably, a combined formulation in the form of a cream does not contain a precipitate containing a metal ion.
2. Liquid Active Agent Formulations
In some embodiments, liquid active agent-containing formulations are provided, which are mixed at the time of use with a second formulation containing hydroxide-containing agents to provide a combined formulation for curling hair. In these embodiments, the liquid active agent formulation may contain any suitable concentration of active agent in a suitable carrier, typically a diluent, such as described above. The liquid active agent formulation may contain combinations of the active agents. The concentration of the active agent is suitable to provide a combined formulation with the appropriate final volume and final concentration of active agent, as desired.
For example, a liquid active agent formulation can contain a concentration of active agent ranging from about 0.05 wt % to about 25 wt % of the formulation, such as from about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 wt % to 4 wt %, or from about 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %. Typically, the active agent may be present in the formulation in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % of the formulation. In a preferred embodiment, the liquid active agent formulation contains about 5% (wt) to 20% (wt) active agent. Preferably, the active agent-containing formulation is odorless.
a. Concentration of Active Agent
In some embodiments, a first active agent formulation, which may contain one or more active agents according to Formulae I, II, and/or III, is provided, which typically contains about 0.1 to about 50 wt % of one or more of the active agents described herein. The active agent formulation may contain from about 0.1 to about 30 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, or from about 0.5 to 5 wt % of one or more of the active agents described herein. The active agent formulations are typically in an aqueous solution and optionally include other suitable ingredients and/or excipients. The active agent formulations are preferably liquid active agent formulations. In some embodiments, the active agent formulations are preferably not in the form of a cream. The active agent formulations can be mixed with a hydroxide-containing agent formulation to form a combined formulation as described below.
In some embodiments, such as when the active agent is Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, the active agent formulation may contain from about 0.1 to about 30 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, or from about 0.5 to 5 wt % of Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate. Optionally, the active agent formulation contains about from about 0.5 to about 10 wt %, from about 1 to about 9 wt %, from about 2 to about 8 wt %, from about 2 to about 6 wt %, from about 2.5 to about 6 wt %, from about 3 to about 5.5 wt %, or from about 3 to about 5 wt % of Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate.
In some embodiments, such as when the active agent is maleic acid or a simple salt thereof, the active agent formulation may contain from about 0.1 to about 30 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, or from about 0.5 to 5 wt % of maleic acid or a simple salt thereof. Optionally, the active agent formulation contains about from about 0.5 to about 10 wt %, from about 0.5 to about 9 wt %, from about 1 to about 8 wt %, from about 1 to about 7 wt %, from about 1 to about 6 wt %, from about 1 to about 3 wt %, or from about 1 to about 2 wt % of maleic acid or a simple salt thereof.
In certain embodiments, a second active agent formulation may be provided, which may be further applied to hair following a curling treatment as described herein. The second active agent formulation may contain the same active agent(s) as the first active agent formulation or may contain a different active agent(s) than the active agent(s) in the first active agent formulation. The second active agent formulation may contain the same concentration of the active agent or a different concentration of the active agent than the concentration of the active agent in the first active agent formulation. Second active agent formulations typically contain about 0.1 to 50 wt % of one or more of the active agents described herein. The active agent formulation may contain from about 0.1 to about 30 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 20 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, from about 0.1 to about 10 wt %, or from about 0.5 to 5 wt % of one or more of the active agents described herein.
The second active agent may be in the form of a liquid or a cream, optionally the second active agent is in an aqueous solution. Optionally, the second active agent formulation contains other suitable ingredients and/or excipients.
III. Hydroxide-Containing Formulations
The term “hydroxide-containing formulations” refers to formulations that contain one or more hydroxide-containing agents. The hydroxide-containing formulation is preferably odorless. The hydroxide-containing formulation is preferably an aqueous formulation.
The hydroxide-containing formulations do not contain a thiol or sulfur-containing reducing agent(s), such as thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, mercaptopropionic acid or salts thereof or derivatives thereof, dithiothreitol, 2-mercaptoethanol, thioxanthine, thio salicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, N-acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites, bisulfites, ammonium sulfites, thioglycerin or derivatives thereof. In certain embodiments, the hydroxide formulations also do not contain other types of reducing agents, such as alkylphosphines, dihydrolipoate, zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate, lipoic acid, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, potassium borohydride, and/or hydroquinone.
Hydroxide-containing formulations and their methods of preparation are known in the art. In preferred embodiments the hydroxide-containing formulations are liquids. Optionally, the hydroxide-containing formulation is in the form of a paste. Commercially available hydroxide-containing formulations, such as in the form of relaxing formulations from the following commercial brands: Mizani® Rhelaxer, Design Essentials®, and Dudley's Q®, are typically in the form of pastes.
Exemplary hydroxide-containing agents include, but are not limited, to alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. In some other embodiments, the agent is ammonium hydroxide or guanidinium hydroxide. Hydroxide-containing agents are known to those of skill in the art.
In preferred embodiments, the hydroxide-containing formulations are free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agents. Alternatively, the hydroxide-containing formulations are substantially free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agents described above. Hydroxide-containing formulations that are substantially free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agents may contain less than about 1 wt %, less than about 0.9 wt %, less than about 0.8 wt %, less than about 0.7 wt %, less than about 0.6 wt %, less than about 0.5 wt %, less than about 0.4 wt %, less than about 0.3 wt %, less than about 0.2 wt %, or less than about 0.1 wt % of any thiol-containing or sulfur-containing reducing agent.
IV. Combined Formulations Containing Active Agent(s) and Hydroxide-Containing Agent(s)
The term “combined formulation” refers to a formulation that contains both one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and one or more of the active agent(s) described above. The combined formulation is preferably an aqueous formulation. The combined formulation is preferably free or substantially free of any thiol or sulfur-containing reducing agents described above. The combined formulation preferably contains less than about 1 wt %, less than about 0.9 wt %, less than about 0.8 wt %, less than about 0.7 wt %, less than about 0.6 wt %, less than about 0.5 wt %, less than about 0.4 wt %, less than about 0.3 wt %, less than about 0.2 wt %, or less than about 0.1 wt % of any thiol-containing or sulfur-containing reducing agent.
The combined formulation generally does not contain a nitrogen-containing base, such as guanadine, amidine, acetamide, or a salt or derivative thereof.
In some embodiments, separate active agent formulations and hydroxide-containing formulations are provided, and are mixed at the time of use to provide a combined formulation.
In other embodiments, a combined formulation is provided (the active agent(s) and hydroxide-containing agent(s) are provided in a single formulation).
In some embodiments, the combined formulation is in the form of a dry powder. Optionally, the dry powder includes one or more excipient(s). An aqueous combined formulation can be formed by adding the combined formulation in the form of a dry powder to a suitable volume of water. Preferably, the resulting aqueous combined formulation contains the active agent(s) at a concentration of about 0.1% (wt) to 30% (wt) and the hydroxide containing agent(s) at a concentration of about 0.1 to 5% (wt).
1. Concentrations
A combined formulation can contain a concentration of one or more hydroxide-containing agents of about 0.1 to 5% (wt), about 0.1 to 3% (wt), about 0.1 to 2% (wt), or about 0.1 to 1% (wt). In preferred embodiments, the concentration of one or more hydroxide-containing agents in the combined formulation is about 0.1 wt %, 0.2 wt %, 0.3 wt %, 0.4 wt %, 0.5 wt %, 0.6 wt %, 0.7 wt %, 0.8 wt %, 0.9 wt %, 1.0 wt %, 1.1 wt %, 1.2 wt %, 1.3 wt %, 1.4 wt %, or 1.5 wt %. The concentration of active agent in the combined formulation can range from about 0.5% (wt) to about 50% (wt) or greater. In certain embodiments, the combined formulation contains about 0.5% (wt) to 20% (wt) active agent. In certain embodiments, the combined formulation contains about 0.1 wt %, 0.2 wt %, 0.3 wt %, 0.4 wt %, 0.5 wt %, 0.6 wt %, 0.7 wt %, 0.8 wt %, 0.9 wt %, 1.0 wt %, 1.1 wt %, 1.2 wt %, 1.3 wt %, 1.4 wt %, 1.5 wt %, 1.6 wt %, 1.7 wt %, 1.8 wt %, 1.9 wt %, 2.0 wt %, 2.0 wt %, 2.1 wt %, 2.2 wt %, 2.3 wt %, 2.4 wt %, 2.5 wt %, 2.6 wt %, 2.7 wt %, 2.8 wt %, 2.9 wt %, or 3.0 wt %, or any concentration between the listed concentrations of the active agent(s).
In certain embodiments the combined formulations contain a molar excess of hydroxide-containing agent compared to the active agent(s) present having one or more acidic groups. In certain other embodiments the combined formulations are prepared based on the molar ratio of hydroxide-containing agent(s) to the number of acidic groups (i.e., carboxylic acid) present in the active agent(s) wherein the molar ratio can be about 2:1 or 1.5:1. In yet other embodiments, the molar ratio of hydroxide-containing agent(s) to the number of acidic groups (i.e., carboxylic acid) may be greater than or less than about 2:1 or 1.5:1 depending on the presence of one or more excipients and/or buffering agents, which can be acidic or basic, and may be present in the combined formulation.
2. Viscosity
The combined formulation may be in the form of a liquid. Preferably, the viscosity of the liquid is less than the viscosity of a cosmetic cream (less than about 8,000 cP, optionally less than 5,000 cP).
Viscosity of the combined formulation can be determined according to known methods for measuring viscosity of fluids. In one non-limiting exemplary method, a Ford viscosity cup viscometer can be used to determine the viscosity of Newtonian fluids according to testing methods provided under ASTM D 1200-94. A Ford viscosity cup viscometer can also be used to determine the viscosity of non-Newtonian fluids according to testing methods provided under ASTM D 2196. Classical Newtonian fluids demonstrate a viscosity, which is essentially independent of shear rate. Non-Newtonian fluids, however, demonstrate a viscosity which either decreases or increases with increasing shear rate, e.g., the fluids are “shear thinning” or “shear thickening”, respectively. These and other methods of measuring viscosity are described in Viswanath, et al. Viscosity of Liquids: Theory, Estimation, Experiment, and Data, Dordrecht:Springer, 2007, Print. Exemplary viscosities of fluids measured by a viscosity cup method (at 20° C.) in units of centipoise include water (1 cP), hand cream (8,000 cP), liquid soap (85 cP), and shampoo (3,000-5,000 cP).
Suitable viscosities for the combined formulations are in the range of about 1 to 3,000 cP, 1 to 2,000 cP, 1 to 1,000 cP, 1 to 750 cP, 1 to 500 cP, 1 to 250 cP, 1 to 100 cP, 1 to 90 cP, 1 to 80 cP, 1 to 70 cP, 1 to 60 cP, 1 to 50 cP, 1 to 40 cP, 1 to 30 cP, 1 to 20 cP, or 1 to 10 cP. In some embodiments, the combined formulations have a viscosity, as measured by a viscosity cup viscometer, which is within 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 20%, 30% of the viscosity of a reference fluid, such as water or shampoo, measured under the same conditions. In preferred embodiments, the combined formulation has a viscosity of less than 8,000 cP.
3. pH
In some embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 11 or greater. In some embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 10 or greater. In certain embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 9.5 or greater, 9.6 or greater, 9.7 or greater, 9.8 or greater, 9.9 or greater, 10.0 or greater, 10.1 or greater, 10.2 or greater, 10.3 or greater, 10.4 or greater, 10.5 or greater, 10.6 or greater, 10.7 or greater, 10.8 or greater, 10.9 or greater, 11.0 or greater, 11.1 or greater, 11.2 or greater, 11.3 or greater, 11.4 or greater, 11.5 or greater, 11.6 or greater, 11.7 or greater, 11.8 or greater, 11.9 or greater, or 12.0 or greater, such as up to 14.0. In certain other embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 9.5, 9.6, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9, 10.0, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9, 11.0, 11.1, 11.2, 11.3, 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, 11.7, 11.8, 11.9, or 12.0.
4. Odorless
The combined formulation generally does not contain a foul smell. Preferably, the combined formulation is odorless. However, perfumes may be included, if desired.
A. Combined Curling Formulations Formed by Mixing Immediately Prior to Application
In some embodiments, combined formulations having a first active agent formulation and a second formulation containing hydroxide-containing agents are provided. These formulations are mixed at the time of use (such as in a salon by a stylist and/or colorist) to provide a combined formulation for curling hair.
In certain embodiments of the combined formulations, the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents in the combined formulation can be in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:5; 5:1 to 1:5; 4:1 to 1:4; or 3:1 to 1:3. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents in the combined formulation is in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:1; 5:1 to 1:1; 4:1 to 1:1; or 3:1 to 1:1. In some instances, the weight ratio is about 10:1, 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5, preferably about 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 or within about 10% of these ratios.
In such combined formulations, the amount of active agent(s) present does not lower the pH of the combined formulation to be below about a pH of 9.5 and more preferably does not lower the pH of the combined formulation below about a pH of 10.5.
B. Pre-Mixed Combined Curling Formulations
In some embodiments, combined formulations are provided, which contain both active agent(s) and hydroxide-containing agent(s). Such combined formulations can be sold as commercial formulations (to distributors and/or salons) as pre-mixed curling formulations containing both the active agent(s) and hydroxide-containing agent(s).
In some embodiments of the combined formulations, the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents in the combined formulation can be in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:5; 5:1 to 1:5; 4:1 to 1:4; or 3:1 to 1:3. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents is in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:1; 5:1 to 1:1; 4:1 to 1:1; or 3:1 to 1:1. In some instances, the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents in the combined formulation is about 10:1, 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5, and preferably about 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5, or within about 10% of these ratios.
Pre-mixed combined formulations can be prepared prior to use and sold as a commercial product to distributors and/or salons. The pre-mixed combined formulations can be stored and are shelf-stable. “Stable” or “shelf-stable” as used herein with respect to shelf-life means that at least 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, or 95% of the active agent is not degraded over a specified time period, such as at least 6 months, at least 1 year, at least 2 years, at least 3 years after forming the combined formulation. Typically, the pre-mixed combined formulations are stored at room temperature optionally under light-free conditions.
V. Kits
In some embodiments, kits for curling hair contain an active agent formulation containing an active agent. The kit may further contain a second formulation, also referred to herein as the hydroxide-containing formulation.
Alternatively, the kit may contain one or more powders containing the hydroxide-containing agent(s) and/or the active agent(s) and/or one or more excipient(s), as discussed in detail below. For example, the kit can contain a single powdered formulation containing the hydroxide-containing agent(s), optionally further containing the active agent(s) and/or excipient(s).
Alternatively, the kit can contain two or more separate powdered formulations, were a first powder contains the hydroxide-containing agent(s), and a second powder contains the active agent(s) and/or excipient(s). The powdered formulations may be provided in sealed container or package to prevent contact with water or a humid environment.
The kits described herein may also include a shampoo, a conditioner, curling rods, perming tools, gloves, an applicator, an applicator bottle (preferably having a fine application tip), or a combination thereof.
The hydroxide-containing agent and active agent formulations are typically provided separately and instructions are provided for applying the hydroxide-containing agent and active agent formulations to the hair. For example, the instructions may provide for creating a combined formulation by mixing the hydroxide-containing agent and active agent formulations, and then applying the combined formulation to the hair. Alternatively, the instructions may provide for applying the hydroxide-containing agent to the hair simultaneously while applying the active agent formulation to the hair (but not as a pre-mixed, combined formulation). The instructions may also include instructions for selecting the desired amount of active agent to be used, such as by specifying a volume or mass (or range thereof) of the active agent or active agent formulation, the desired weight ratio of active agent to hydroxide-containing agent, and/or the desired weight ratio of first hydroxide-containing formulation to second active agent formulation in order to control the level of curl imparted to the hair.
Alternatively, instructions are provided for first applying the hydroxide-containing agent to the hair and subsequently applying the active agent formulation to the hair. The instructions may specify the amount of time (i.e., in the range of about one second to about 30 minutes, more preferably within about 60 seconds) that can pass following the application of the hydroxide-containing formulation before the application of the active agent formulation and/or the amount of active agent formulation to be applied in order to control the level of curl imparted to the hair. The instructions may also specify how to select the desired amount of active agent to be used, such as by specifying a volume or mass (or range thereof) of the active agent or active agent formulation, the desired weight ratio of active agent to hydroxide-containing agent, and/or the desired weight ratio of a first hydroxide-containing formulation to a second active agent formulation in order to control the level of curl imparted to the hair being curled.
In other embodiments, the kits for curling hair contain a combined formulation as described herein.
Instructions provided can also specify reshaping of the hair prior to, during, or following the application of a formulation containing one or more active agents and/or one or more hydroxide-containing agents. Such instructions detail reshaping the hair using a tool, device, or technique to place the hair in a particular shape, which is later removed or deconstructed, to achieve a desired hairstyle. For example, reshaping the hair can include rolling the hair on a roller, rod, and/or curler; or braiding or twisting the hair; or combinations thereof. Reshaping of the hair can include braiding and/or twisting of the hair, optionally in combination with or in the absence of any roller, curler, curling rod, and/or other suitable hair-shaping instrument. Reshaping the hair according to the methods described is discussed in further detail below.
Instructions also include details on the setting period for the hair following application of one or more formulations as discussed above, which is typically in the range of about 1 to 90 minutes, preferably about 10, 20, 30, or 40 minutes. In some instances, the setting period can be in the range of about 15 to 30 minutes, more preferably about 20 minutes. Details on the setting period are discussed further below.
Instructions may further include details on rinsing the hair following the setting period, removal of any tool, device, or technique and/or braid used to place the hair in a particular shape during the reshaping step, and shampooing and optionally conditioning the curled hair. Details of the aforementioned steps are discussed further below.
Exemplary instructions can include directions to perform the following:
1. Shampooing the hair (such as with a light clarifying shampoo) and towel drying the hair;
2. Reshaping the hair, such as by wrapping the hair on a rod or other perming tool, and/or braiding the hair;
3. Saturating the hair, rods or other perming tools, and/or braids thoroughly with hydroxide-containing agent and active agent formulations, either applied simultaneously as individual formulations, or applied as a single combined formulation;
4. Allowing setting for a period of 20 minutes;
5. Rinsing the hair, rods, or other perming tools, and/or braids following the setting period of 20 minutes to remove the formulation(s);
6. Removing/unwrapping the hair from rods or other perming tools out, if used, or unbraiding the hair; and
7. Shampooing, conditioning, and styling the hair as usual.
A. Hydroxide-Containing Formulation
In some embodiments, the kit contains hydroxide-containing agent(s) or a formulation thereof that contains one or more hydroxide-containing agents as described above. The hydroxide-containing formulation is typically provided in the form of a liquid in a container. The hydroxide-containing formulation included in the kit is preferably odorless. In some embodiments, the hydroxide-containing formulation may contain perfumes. Alternatively, the kit may further include perfumes, which may be added to the hydroxide-containing formulation.
In some other instances, the hydroxide-containing agent(s) may be provided as a dry powder in a sealed package and the powder may optionally include excipient(s), such as those discussed herein. A suitable mixing container for the powder may be provided. An exemplary mixing container is an applicator bottle. Instructions are provided for preparing the hydroxide-containing formulation and indicate to the user the suitable volume of aqueous solution, such as water, needed to form the hydroxide-containing formulation. Optionally, the aqueous solution contains the active agent, i.e. is the active agent formulation.
B. Active Agent Formulation
The active agent formulation contains one or more active agents as described herein. Suitable formulations containing the active agents are discussed above. The active agent formulation may be in any suitable form. Typically, the active agent formulation is a flowable liquid at standard temperature and pressure, such as a low to moderate viscosity liquid. The active agent formulation is provided in a suitable container, which depends on the form of the formulation.
In some embodiments, the active agent formulation is provided as two or more separate ingredients. For example, the active agent may be provided as a dry powder in a sealed package and the excipient(s) provided in a vial or other container. A suitable mixing container for the active agent and the excipient(s) may be provided.
The active agent formulation included in the kit is preferably odorless. In some embodiments, the active agent formulation may contain perfumes. Alternatively, the kit may further include perfumes, which may be added to the active agent formulation.
In some other instances, the active agent(s) may be provided as a dry powder in a sealed package and the powder may optionally include excipient(s), such as those discussed herein. A suitable mixing container for the powder may be provided. An exemplary mixing container is an applicator bottle. Instructions are provided for preparing the active agent formulation and indicate to the user the suitable volume of aqueous solution, such as water, needed to form the active agent formulation. Optionally, the aqueous solution contains the hydroxide-containing agent, i.e. is the hydroxide-containing formulation.
C. Combined Formulation
In some embodiments, the kit contains a pre-mixed combined formulation, which contains both the active agent(s) and the hydroxide-containing agent(s), as described above. The combined formulation can be shelf-stable for at least 6 months, 7 months, 8 months, 9 months, 10 months, 11 months, optionally at least 1 year, or longer.
The combined formulation is typically provided in the form of a liquid in a container. The combined formulation included in the kit is preferably odorless. In some embodiments, the combined formulation may contain perfumes. Alternatively, the kit may further include perfumes, which may be added to the combined formulation.
In yet other instances, the hydroxide-containing agent(s) and active agent(s) may be provided in the form of a dry powder in a sealed container or package, where the powder optionally includes excipient(s). A suitable mixing container for the powder may be provided. An exemplary mixing container can be an applicator bottle. Instructions are provided for preparing the combined formulation in the form of a liquid. The instructions also indicate to the user the suitable volume of aqueous solution, such as water, needed to form the hydroxide-containing formulation. Preferably, the resulting combined formulation in liquid form, contains the active agent(s) at a concentration of about 0.1% (wt) to 30% (wt) and the hydroxide containing agent(s) at a concentration of about 0.1 to 5% (wt).
VI. Methods of Use
Methods for curling hair are described herein. Preferably, the methods described herein are free of or substantially free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agent. Preferably, each step in the methods described herein is free of or substantially free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agent. Exemplary thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agent(s) include thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, mercaptopropionic acid or salts thereof or derivatives thereof, dithiothreitol, 2-mercaptoethanol, thioxanthine, thio salicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, N-acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites, bisulfites, ammonium sulfites, thioglycerin or derivatives thereof. As used herein, “substantially free of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agent” with respect to a step in a method or to the entire method indicates that each formulation used or created in the step or method contains less than about 1 wt %, less than about 0.9 wt %, less than about 0.8 wt %, less than about 0.7 wt %, less than about 0.6 wt %, less than about 0.5 wt %, less than about 0.4 wt %, less than about 0.3 wt %, less than about 0.2 wt %, or less than about 0.1 wt % of any thiol- or sulfur-containing reducing agent.
In some embodiments, the method is free of or substantially free of any known reducing agent. In some embodiments, each step in the method is free of or substantially free of any known reducing agent. Exemplary reducing agents include, but are not limited, the sulfur containing and thiol-containing reducing agents listed above, alkylphosphines, dihydrolipoate, zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, lipoic acid, potassium borohydride, and/or hydroquinone. “Substantially free of any known reducing agent” with respect to a step in a method or to the entire method indicates that each formulation used or created in the step or method contains less than about 1 wt %, less than about 0.9 wt %, less than about 0.8 wt %, less than about 0.7 wt %, less than about 0.6 wt %, less than about 0.5 wt %, less than about 0.4 wt %, less than about 0.3 wt %, less than about 0.2 wt %, or less than about 0.1 wt % of any known reducing agent.
The curling methods can be used to impart curl to a variety of different types of hair, including but not limited to naturally straight hair, such as Asian hair, straight Hispanic hair, or straight Caucasian hair, wavy hair in general, and hair that was previously subjected to a relaxing treatment, colored, or bleached.
In some embodiments, the methods include controlling, selecting, or tuning the level of curl imparted during a hair curling process or treatment (using a hydroxide-containing formulation) by controlling the relative amount of an active agent formulation to the amount of hydroxide-containing agent formulation.
In some embodiments, a method for curling hair involves applying a first formulation to the hair containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and applying a second formulation to the hair comprising one or more active agents of Formulae I, II, and/or III, as described above. According to certain embodiments, the application of the first and second formulations is performed simultaneously. For example, the first and the second formulations are optionally mixed to form a combined formulation prior to application and the combined formulation is applied to the hair. For example, when the hair to be curled is set as desired on a rod or curler, first one or more hydroxide-containing agents may be added to a formulation containing the active agent, or vice versa to form a single combined formulation and the combined formulation may be applied to the hair being curled.
Preferably, when the first and second formulations are applied simultaneously as a combined formulation, the amount of active agent formulation present in the combined formulation does not lower the pH of the combined formulation to a pH below about 9.5, and more preferably does not lower the pH of the combined formulation to a pH below about 10.5. In other embodiments, when the first and second formulations are applied simultaneously, the amount of active agent formulation in the combined formulation results in a combined formulation with a pH of about 10 or greater, and more preferably a pH of about 11 or greater. In certain embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 9.5 or greater, 9.6 or greater, 9.7 or greater, 9.8 or greater, 9.9 or greater, 10.0 or greater, 10.1 or greater, 10.2 or greater, 10.3 or greater, 10.4 or greater, 10.5 or greater, 10.6 or greater, 10.7 or greater, 10.8 or greater, 10.9 or greater, 11.0 or greater, 11.1 or greater, 11.2 or greater, 11.3 or greater, 11.4 or greater, 11.5 or greater, 11.6 or greater, 11.7 or greater, 11.8 or greater, 11.9 or greater, or 12.0 or greater, such as up to 14.0. In certain other embodiments, the pH of the combined formulation is about 9.5, 9.6, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9, 10.0, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8, 10.9, 11.0, 11.1, 11.2, 11.3, 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, 11.7, 11.8, 11.9, or 12.0.
In certain embodiments, the preferred low end of the pH range of the combined formulation depends on the type of hair being curled. In non-limiting examples, the pH of the combined formulation is preferably no less than about 13 or about 12 when Asian hair is being curled. In another non-limiting example, the pH of the combined formulation is preferably no less than about 11 or about 10 when Caucasian hair is being curled. In other non-limiting examples, the pH of the combined formulation is about 10 or about 11 or greater when Asian hair is being curled. In another non-limiting example, the pH of the combined formulation is about 9.5 or about 10 or greater when Caucasian hair is being curled.
Preferably, the curling methods described are performed at room temperature and in the absence of any application of an external heat source during the curling method. In less preferable embodiments, heating may be applied, for example during the setting period after the hydroxide-containing and active agent formulations have been applied to the hair. Heating of the hair during the setting period is preferably kept below about 100° C., about 90° C., about 80° C., about 70° C., about 60° C., or about 50° C. Non-limiting examples of heat sources that may be used during the setting period include, but are not limited to, a hair dryer or salon hair dryer.
Following application of the first and second formulations or the combined formulation, the hair is rinsed after a setting period. Further, a second active agent formulation containing one or more active agents of Formulae I, II, and/or III may optionally be applied subsequently to the hair (which was previously treated in the first step).
In some embodiments, the method for curling hair involves applying a first formulation to the hair containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and subsequently applying to the hair one or more active agents of Formulae I, II, and/or III, as described above.
In still other embodiments, one or more of the active agents of the Formula I, II, and/or III, as described above, may be added to the formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents prior to applying the formulation to the hair to form a combined formulation. Typically, the active agent(s) are added immediately prior to applying the combined formulation to the hair for the curling treatment.
The curling methods described herein curl hair; in contrast, applying to hair hydroxide-containing agent(s) alone would not be expected to produce any curl. Further the amount of the one or more active agents of the second formulation in combination with the first formulation are effective to impart a desired level of curl in the curled hair with reduced damage or breakage compared to treatments that do not include an active agent according to Formulae I, II, and/or III.
A. Reshaping the Hair
The methods described herein include the step of reshaping hair prior to, during, or following the application of any formulation containing one or more active agents and/or one or more hydroxide-containing agents.
Reshaping the hair typically includes using a tool, device, or technique to place the hair in a particular shape, which is later removed or deconstructed, to achieve a desired hairstyle. For example, reshaping the hair can include rolling the hair on a roller, rod, and/or curler; or braiding or twisting the hair; or combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, reshaping the hair includes rolling the hair on or around a perm roller, curler, curling rod, or other suitable hair shaping instruments or tools prior to application of any formulation or combinations thereof. The size of the rod, curler, perm roller or other hair-shaping tool is selected to achieve a desired curl shape and size. Typically, the size of the curl in the hair following the methods described herein is larger than the diameter of the rod, curler, perm roller or other hair-shaping tool that is used in the reshaping step. For example, the size of the curls that are formed following the methods described herein can be 2 to 10 times larger, optionally 5 to 10 times larger, or 8 to 10 times larger than the diameter of the rod, curler, perm roller or other hair-shaping tool that is used.
Reshaping of the hair can include braiding and/or twisting of the hair, optionally in combination with or in the absence of any roller, curler, curling rod, and/or other suitable hair-shaping instrument.
Braided or twisted hair, for example, will then acquire curl because of the braiding or twisting of the hair. The hair may be braided or twisted as desired to tune the size and shape of the curl imparted following application of the curling methods described herein. In yet another instance, the hair may be braided or twisted, optionally in the absence of any roller, curler, curling rod, and/or other suitable hair shaping instrument, during the application of an active agent formulation, hydroxide-containing formulation, either simultaneously or as combined formulations thereof to the hair (i.e., wetting of the hair) as described herein. The braided or twisted hair will then acquire curl because of the braiding or twisting of the hair. The hair may be braided or twisted as desired to tune the size and shape of the curl imparted following application of the curling methods described herein.
In preferred embodiments, the hair is rolled (e.g. on curlers or rods), or is braided or twisted, prior to the application of the formulation(s) containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and active agent(s).
In some embodiments, the hair may be rolled on curlers or rods, or is braided or twisted, after the application of the formulation(s) containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and active agent(s). In these instances, the hair is preferably rolled, braided, or twisted immediately after application of the formulations at least within about 1-15 minutes, more preferably about 1-10 minutes, and most preferably about 1-5 minutes.
B. Apply Formulation(s) Containing One or More Hydroxide-Containing Agents and Active Agent(s)
The active agent is applied to the hair either simultaneously with the hydroxide-containing agent (such as in the form of a combined formulation) or is applied immediately following the application of the hydroxide-containing formulation (wherein the hair has not been rinsed prior to application of the second formulation) or, alternatively, applied at a short interval of time immediately following the application of the hydroxide-containing formulation. “Short interval,” as used herein, refers to a period in the range of one second to 30 minutes, one minute to 20 minutes, or 5 minutes to 15 minutes.
Preferably, the active agent is applied simultaneously with the one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) to the hair.
The active agent formulation may be applied as a single application, or application may be repeated one or more times as needed. Preferably, the amount of active agent formulation applied is sufficient to saturate the hair. The volume of active agent formulation applied to the hair in each application may be about 1 to about 200 mL depending on the length and volume of hair.
In certain other embodiments, a pre-mixed, combined formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and a second formulation containing one or more active agent(s) is applied to the hair as part of a curling process.
In some embodiments, a first formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and a second formulation containing one or more active agent(s) are mixed and applied to the hair as a single combined formulation containing both types of agents to the hair as part of a curling process. Alternatively, the first formulation and second formulation can be applied simultaneously to the hair without a prior mixing step.
When the formulations are applied simultaneously, the amount of active agent formulation used does not lower the pH of the combined formulation to be below about a pH of 10 and preferably does not lower the pH of the combined formulation below about a pH of 11 and the weight ratio of the hydroxide-containing agent formulation to the active agent formulation can be in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:5; 5:1 to 1:5; 4:1 to 1:4; or 3:1 to 1:3. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the hydroxide-containing agent formulation to the active agent formulation is in the range of about 10:1 to about 1:1; 5:1 to 1:1; 4:1 to 1:1; or 3:1 to 1:1. In some instances, the weight ratio of the hydroxide-containing agent formulation to the active agent formulation is about 10:1, 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5, and preferably about 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, or 1:5 or within about 10% of these ratios.
The amount of the second formulation containing active agent(s) and the concentration of the active agent(s) present therein can be varied as desired when using other hydroxide-containing agents to achieve similar results.
Formulations containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents, having a pH of about 11 to 14, represent a difference in hydroxide ion concentration of about 100 times between the ends of the range may be used. In such instances, the amount of active agent(s) can be varied as a function of the pH of the commercially available relaxing formulation being used, and can be further adjusted according to the buffering capacity of each hydroxide-containing agent formulation, if a buffering agent is present.
In certain embodiments, the first and second formulations can be prepared at the time of use or immediately before as a single combined formulation containing both one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and the active agent(s) of Formulae I, II, and/or III having the weight ratios as described above.
In certain embodiments, the first and second formulation can be prepared as a single combined formulation, containing both the one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and the active agent(s) of Formulae I, II, and/or III having the weight ratios as described above and stored prior to use.
The single combined formulation typically has a pH in the range of 10 to 14, preferably a pH ranging from 11 to 13. According to certain embodiments, the single combined formulation contains about 0.1 to 10 wt % of one or more hydroxide-containing agent(s) and about 0.05 to 10 wt % of one or more active agents when prepared as a single aqueous solution or when a first and second formulation are prepared individually and subsequently mixed to form a single combined formulation.
Following application of the active agent and hydroxide-containing agent, the hair is allowed to set (“setting period”) for a period of time, typically in the range of about 1 to 90 minutes, preferably about 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60 minutes. In some instances, the setting period is preferably less than about one hour, 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 20 minutes, 15 minutes, or 10 minutes. In some instances, the setting period can be in the range of about 15 to 30 minutes, more preferably about 20 minutes.
Preferably, the method is performed at room temperature and in the absence of any application of an external heat source during the method. In less preferable embodiments, heat may be applied, for example, during the setting period after the hydroxide-containing and active agents have been applied to the hair. Heating of the hair is preferably kept below about 100° C., about 90° C., about 80° C., about 70° C., about 60° C., or about 50° C. Non-limiting examples of heat sources, which may be used during the setting period, include, but are not limited to, a hair dryer or salon hair dryer.
C. Removal of Formulations from Hair
The formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and the active agent formulation or combined formulations thereof applied to the hair is rinsed from the hair. Typically the rinsing step lasts for a period in the range of about 0.1 to 10 minutes, preferably for about 1 to 5 minutes, more preferably about 3 to 5 minutes. If the hair is rinsed prior to removal from the curling rod, curler, or roller, or undoing of the braid and/or twist, then the rinsing time is preferably longer.
Optionally, the curled hair is removed from the rods/rollers/curlers or the braid or twist is undone, and the hair is then rinsed. However, this process generally takes a relatively long time. Therefore, it is generally useful when only a few rods, curlers, or rollers are placed in the hair. Optionally the hair may be immediately rinsed, shampooed and/or conditioned or subjected to one or more wash cycles and then allowed to dry (i.e., air drying, blotting, towel drying, blow drying). Air drying, blotting and towel drying occur at room temperature. Rinsing can be performed with water at a temperature ranging from about room temperature (i.e., about 23-25° C.) to about 40° C.
The curled hair can be rinsed, shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles subsequent to the curling process. The hair may be rinsed and subsequently shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles immediately (e.g. within 10, 15, 25, 30, 45, 60 seconds (one minute), two minutes, three minutes, four, or five minutes following application) after application of the active agent formulation.
In some embodiments of the methods described herein, the curled hair is rinsed, shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles about 45 minutes after the application of the formulations containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and active agent(s), when they are applied simultaneously. In some embodiments of the methods described herein, the curled hair is rinsed, shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles about 15 minutes after the application of an active agent formulation, when the active agent formulation is applied immediately (i.e., within about 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60 seconds (one minute), two minutes, three minutes, four, or five minutes) after applying the hydroxide-containing agent formulation.
Alternately, the hair may be rinsed, shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles and a subsequent application of the active agent formulation may be applied which does not have to be rinsed, shampooed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles after application to the hair.
In summary, the method of use can include a combination of optionally preparing the hair prior to curling; reshaping hair; applying formulation(s) containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and active agent(s) to the hair; removal of formulation(s) from hair; removal of any reshaping tools; and shampooing, conditioning, and styling the hair.
As a non-limiting example, the methods of use can include:
1. Shampooing the hair (such as with a light clarifying shampoo) and towel drying the hair;
2. Reshaping the hair, such as by wrapping the hair on a rod or other perming tool, and/or braiding the hair;
3. Saturating the hair, rods or other perming tools, and/or braids thoroughly with hydroxide-containing agent and active agent formulations, either applied simultaneously as individual formulations, or applied as a single combined formulation;
4. Allowing setting for a period of about 20 minutes;
5. Rinsing the hair, rods, or other perming tools, and/or braids following the setting period of about 20 minutes to remove the formulation(s);
6. Removing/unwrapping the hair from rods or other perming tools out, if used, or unbraiding the hair; and
7. Shampooing, conditioning, and styling the hair as usual.
D. Optionally Apply a Second Active Agent Formulation to the Hair
Optionally, while the hair is still in the rollers/rods/curlers/braid/twist, a second active agent formulation having one or more of the active agents of Formulae I, II, and/or III may be applied to the treated hair.
The optional second active agent formulation, when applied, is allowed to sit on the hair for a period in the range of about 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably about 1 to 15 minutes.
The curled hair is then removed from the perm roller/curler/curling rod/braid/twist and can optionally be immediately shampooed, rinsed, optionally conditioned, or subjected to one or more wash cycles and then allowed to dry (i.e., air drying, blotting, towel drying, blow drying).
E. Properties of Curled Hair Following Curling Treatment
Treatment as described herein can improve hair quality, such as appearance (e.g., sheen) and feel, increase wet and dry strength, and decrease hair breakage, even when the hair is subjected to subsequent styling treatments, such as coloring or bleaching, or additional curling or straightening treatments (such as to modify the curl, change the shape of the curl, or modify the level of curl (e.g. tighter or looser curls)).
1. Reduced Damage/Hair Breakage
Hair breakage is a significant problem encountered during typical hair curling treatments, such as permanent wave treatments. In the present embodiments, hair breakage can be decreased as compared to standard curling treatments by using the curling methods described herein.
2. Retention of Curl
In certain embodiments, the curl imparted to the hair can be retained after at least about 1 to 30 wash cycles, preferably for at least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 wash cycles.
The amount and shape of the curl imparted is influenced by the size of the curling device or technique (e.g. curlers, rollers, rods, braids, or twists) used in combination with the application of the first and second formulations described herein.
The curl imparted to the hair following a curling treatment can be retained with no appreciable or substantially no appreciable change (i.e., a reduction of curl of less than 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1%) for a period of time in the range of one week to six months, such as in the range of two weeks to four months or one month to three months. In some embodiments, a percentage of curl can be maintained for at least about one week, two weeks, three weeks, four weeks, one month, two months, three months, four months, five months, six months, or longer. The treated hair retains curl when subjected to conditions under which it would not retain the curl absent treatment according to the methods described herein, such as rinsing, shampooing, conditioning, or one or more wash cycles. “Wash cycles,” as used herein refers to hair, which has been subjected to the following: rinsing-shampooing-rinsing-conditioning-rinsing of the hair following a curling treatment described herein. Rinsing can be performed with water at a temperature ranging from about room temperature (i.e., about 23-25° C.) to about 40° C.
In some embodiments, the percentage of curl is reduced by less than about 5%, 10%, 15%, or 20% of the imparted curl after about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50 or more wash cycles. In yet other embodiments, the percentage of curl is reduced by less than about 30%, 40%, or 50% of the imparted curl after about 20-50 wash cycles. In certain embodiments, the imparted curl is retained with no appreciable or substantially no appreciable change after about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50 or more wash cycles, preferably two or more wash cycles, more preferably at least 5 wash cycles, more preferably after about 5-10 wash cycles.
As used herein, “percent change in the level of curl” and “percentage of change in curl” are used interchangeably to refer to the level of curl that is maintained over time (e.g. following one or more wash cycles) following a curling treatment. One exemplary method for determining percent change in the level of curl in the hair (e.g. a swatch of hair) is based on the following formula:

Percent Change in the level of Curl=(LF−Li)/(Li)×100

where LF is the final length of the hair following one or more wash cycles or a set period of time, and Li is the length of the curled hair following a curling treatment. For example, the level of curl (percent curl) following treatment with the active agent(s) and hydroxide-containing agent(s) can be maintained after washing with no significant loss in the curl, such the range of about 0-50%, for example less than about 40%, less than about 30%, less than about 20%, less than about 10%, less than about 5% change in the level of curl. The change in the level of curl can be determined after one or more wash cycles, with LF corresponding to the length of the curled hair after a particular number of wash cycles, such as after 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50 or more wash cycles. Alternatively, the level of curl imparted following a curling method and the corresponding retention of curl after one or more wash cycles can be evaluated by visual inspection. Visual inspection is particularly useful when the hair being curled has natural curl or has been previously curled. Visual inspection is also useful to determine changes in the nature of curls, such as the shape and/or tightness of the curl.
F. Optional Subsequent Straightening or Curling Treatments to Modify the Level of Curl
After performing the hair curling methods described herein, the level of curl can be modified by one or more additional curling treatments according to the same methods described herein. Repeated application of the curling methods described to hair can selectively modify the level of curl over a period, such as from day-to-day, week-to-week or month-to-month, or other suitable time intervals. For example, the curling methods may be repeated 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, or more times at the aforementioned time intervals. Optionally, after using the hair curling methods described herein, the hair can be treated immediately thereafter (i.e., within 24 hours of the curling treatment) with a straightening process to straighten the hair. Further, a subsequent curling method may optionally be applied within 24 hours to curl the hair. This allows one to tune and modify the level of curl in hair, as desired, without damaging the hair.
G. Exemplary Method of Use
In a non-limiting embodiment of the methods described herein, hair is wrapped/rolled on one or more rods or perming tools. Afterwards, a combined formulation containing one or more hydroxide-containing agents and active agent(s) is then applied to hair. In some embodiments, the combined formulation is applied simultaneously while (not subsequent to) wrapping or rolling the hair onto the rods or perming tools. Typically, one or more sections of the hair are wrapped around or rolled onto one or more perming tools, such as rods. Typically, more than one perming tool or rod is used to provide a plurality of curls in the hair, typically throughout all of the hair on the head.
Optionally, prior to wrapping/rolling the hair on a rod or perming tool, the hair is washed with a shampoo or clarifying shampoo and is towel dried.
The amount of formulation applied is preferably an amount that saturates the hair on the rods or perming tools. The hair is allowed to set for a given period of time (“setting period”). Preferably, no application of heat is required during the setting period. The setting period can be in the range of about 1 to 90 minutes, more preferably about 10, 20, 30, or 40 minutes, even more preferably 30 minutes after the application of the formulation. In some instances, the setting period can be in the range of about 15 to 30 minutes, more preferably about 20 minutes.
After the setting period has concluded, such as after a 30 minute-long setting period, the hair is rinsed followed by removal of the rod(s) or perming tool(s) from the hair. Alternatively, after the setting period, the rod(s) or perming tool(s) are removed from the hair, and subsequently the hair is rinsed. The rinsed hair is typically subsequently shampooed and, optionally, conditioned.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Curling of Asian Hair
Composition of Formulations 1 and 2:
Formulation 1 contained 2 wt % NaOH and 2 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Formulation 2 contained 4 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to a swatch of Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 20 minutes. The hair sample was then thoroughly rinsed with room temperature water for 3 minutes and then blotted with a paper towel. Formulation 2 was added to the hair sample and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The hair retained a curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine.
Curl retention was tested after 20 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 20 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 2: Curling of Asian Hair
Composition of Formulations 1 and 2:
Formulation 1 contained 2 wt % NaOH with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Formulation 2 contained 4 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Two swatches of Asian hair were rolled into perm rollers and each swatch was treated with Formulation 1 for 20 minutes. Both hair swatches were then rinsed for 3 minutes and blotted with a paper towel. One of the swatches was then treated with Formulation 2 for 20 minutes and the other swatch was treated with a 5 wt % acetic acid aqueous solution for 20 minutes. Both swatches were then rinsed, removed from the perm rollers, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The hair swatch neutralized with Formulation 2 demonstrated curl retention but was in worse condition than prior to the treatment and in significantly inferior condition, when compared to the swatch treated according to the conditions listed in Example 1 (above).
The sample neutralized with the acetic acid solution did not hold a curl and was significantly damaged and in a worse state than the swatch neutralized by Formulation 2.
Example 3: Curling of Caucasian Hair
Composition of Formulations 1 and 2:
Formulation 1 contained 2 wt % NaOH and 4 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Formulation 2 contained 4 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Caucasian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 20 minutes. The hair sample was then thoroughly rinsed in room temperature water for 3 minutes and blotted with a paper towel. Formulation 2 was added to the hair sample and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the perm roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 4: Curling of Caucasian Hair
Composition of Formulations 1 and 2:
Formulation 1 contained 2.6 wt % NaOH and 4 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Formulation 2 contained Bond Protector No. 2 (OLAPLEX®) (3 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate in the form of cream).
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Caucasian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 40 minutes. The hair sample was then thoroughly rinsed in room temperature water for 3 minutes and blotted with a paper towel. Formulation 2 was applied to the hair sample and allowed to sit on the hair for 10 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the perm roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 5: Curling of Asian Hair
Composition of Formulations 1 and 2:
Formulation 1 contained 2.6 wt % NaOH and 2 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Formulation 2 contained Bond Protector No. 2 (OLAPLEX®) (3 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate in the form of cream).
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 40 minutes. The hair sample was then thoroughly rinsed in room temperature water for 3 minutes and blotted with a paper towel. Formulation 2 was applied to the hair and allowed to sit on the hair for 10 min. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 6: Curling of Caucasian Hair
Composition of Formulation 1:
Formulation 1 contained 6.6 wt % NaOH and 1.25 wt % Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Caucasian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 40 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the perm roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained a curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 7: Curling of Asian Hair
Composition of Formulation 1:
Formulation 1 contained 6.6 wt % NaOH and 0.77 wt % Maleic Acid with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 30 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained a curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 8: Curling of Caucasian Hair
Composition of Formulation 1:
Formulation 1 contained 6.6 wt % NaOH and 0.7 wt % Methacrylic Acid with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 30 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained a curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 9: Curling of Caucasian Hair
Composition of Formulation 1:
Formulation 1 contained 6.6 wt % NaOH and 0.7 wt % Methacrylic Acid with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit on the hair for 30 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed and conditioned, and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair retained a curl and exhibited a better condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, such as increased smoothness and shine. Curl retention was tested after 10 wash cycles including shampooing and conditioning. After 10 wash cycles, the curl retention was nearly identical to the curl after the initial treatment.
Example 10: Curling of Caucasian Hair without Active Agent
Composition of Formulation 1:
Formulation 1 contained 6.6 wt % NaOH and 0.7 wt % Lactic Acid with the remainder of the formulation being made up of water.
Curling Procedure:
Formulation 1 was prepared immediately prior to use, applied to Asian hair in a perm roller, and allowed to sit for 30 minutes. The hair sample was then rinsed, removed from the roller, shampooed, and conditioned and allowed to air dry.
Curling Results:
The treated hair did not retain any significant curl after 1 wash and after 3 wash cycles had less curl than before the treatment. The condition, as compared to the hair prior to treatment, was flat with increased frizz, breakage, and poor feel.

## Claims

1. A method comprising:
(a) applying to hair a formulation comprising one or more hydroxide-containing agents; and
one or more active agents selected from the group consisting of maleic acid, acrylic acid, methyl acrylic acid, and vinyl sulfonic acid, and simple salts thereof; and
(b) reshaping the hair;
wherein the method is substantially free of a sulfur-containing reducing agent.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein following steps (a) and (b), the hair retains curl when subjected to one or more wash cycles.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein step (b) occurs prior to step (a).

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the formulation is a combined formulation, and wherein prior to step (a), a first and a second formulation are mixed to form the combined formulation, wherein the combined formulation has a pH of about 10 or greater.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents is in the range of about 5:1 to about 1:5.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the one or more hydroxide-containing agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide, and ammonium hydroxide.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the active agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 10 wt % of the formulation.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the step of reshaping the hair comprises rolling the hair on a roller, rod, or curler, or a combination thereof.

9. The method of claim 1, further comprising:
(c) applying to the hair a second active agent formulation comprising a second active agent, wherein the second active agent is maleic acid or a simple salt thereof, acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, methyl acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, and vinyl sulfonic acid or a simple salt thereof,





or a mixture thereof;
wherein step (c) occurs subsequent to step (b).

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the second active agent formulation comprises about 0.1 to about 5 wt % of the second active agent.

11. A method comprising:
(a) applying to hair a formulation comprising one or more hydroxide-containing agents and
maleic acid or a salt or a mixture thereof;
wherein the pH of the formulation is about 10 or greater; and
(b) reshaping the hair;
wherein the method is substantially free of a sulfur-containing reducing agent.

12. The method of claim 11, wherein following steps (a) and (b), the hair retains curl when subjected to one or more wash cycles.

13. The method of claim 11, wherein step (b) occurs prior to step (a).

14. The method of claim 11, wherein the formulation is a combined formulation, and wherein prior to step (a), a first and a second formulation are mixed to form the combined formulation, wherein the combined formulation has a pH of about 10 or greater.

15. The method of claim 11, wherein the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the maleic acid is in the range of about 5:1 to about 1:5.

16. The method of claim 11, wherein the one or more hydroxide-containing agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide, and ammonium hydroxide.

17. The method of claim 11, wherein the active agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 10 wt % of the formulation.

18. The method of claim 11, wherein the step of reshaping the hair comprises rolling the hair on a roller, rod, or curler, or a combination thereof.

19. The method of claim 11, further comprising:
(c) applying to the hair a second active agent formulation comprising a second active agent, wherein the second active agent is maleic acid or a simple salt thereof, acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, methyl acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, vinyl sulfonic acid or a simple salt thereof,





or a mixture thereof;
wherein step (c) occurs subsequent to step (b).

20. The method of claim 19, wherein the second active agent formulation comprises about 0.1 to about 5 wt % of the second active agent.

21. A method comprising:
(a) applying to hair a formulation comprising one or more hydroxide-containing agents and one or more active agents selected from the group consisting of:




and
(b) reshaping the hair; and
wherein the method is substantially free of a sulfur-containing reducing agent.

22. The method of claim 21, wherein following steps (a) and (b), the hair retains curl when subjected to one or more wash cycles.

23. The method of claim 21, wherein step (b) occurs prior to step (a).

24. The method of claim 21, wherein the formulation is a combined formulation, and wherein prior to step (a), a first and a second formulation are mixed to form the combined formulation, wherein the combined formulation has a pH of about 10 or greater.

25. The method of claim 21, wherein the weight ratio of the one or more hydroxide-containing agents to the one or more active agents is in the range of about 5:1 to about 1:5.

26. The method of claim 21, wherein the one or more hydroxide-containing agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide, and ammonium hydroxide.

27. The method of claim 21, wherein the active agent is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt % to about 10 wt % of the formulation.

28. The method of claim 21, wherein the step of reshaping the hair comprises rolling the hair on a roller, rod, or curler, or a combination thereof.

29. The method of claim 21, further comprising:
(c) applying to the hair a second active agent formulation comprising a second active agent, wherein the second active agent is maleic acid or a simple salt thereof, acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, methyl acrylic acid or a simple salt thereof, vinyl sulfonic acid or a simple salt thereof,





or a mixture thereof;
wherein step (c) occurs subsequent to step (b).

30. The method of claim 29, wherein the second active agent formulation comprises about 0.1 to about 5 wt % of the second active agent.