45 PRESERVATION 

BRIEFS 

Preserving Historic Wood Porches 

Aleca Sullivan and John Leeke 

National Park Service 

U.S. Department of the Interior 

Few architectural features evoke more romantic notions 

or do more to define a building's historic character than 

the American porch. The size, style, detailing, and 

location of a porch can tell volumes about the age and 

use of a building. Each component, from handrail or 

baluster to column or post, enhances the architectural 

character of the porch. Alter or remove the porch and 

a historic building or streets cape can lose its visual 

integrity and historic authenticity (Fig 1). 

Functionally, a porch protects an entrance from the 

weather. Yet open porches are constantly exposed 

to sun, snow, rain, and foot traffic, and thus subject 

to deterioration, perhaps more than other parts of a 

building. Wood porches are particularly vulnerable. 

Deferred maintenance and neglect account for the 

decay and loss of countless numbers of historic porches 

each year. Deterioration from moisture and resultant 

wood rot, and damage caused by wood-eating insects 

are common problems that, when left unaddressed 

too long, can lead to the loss of significant historic 

fabric. Inappropriate repairs or insensitive alterations, 

such as the enclosure of a front porch, can be equally 

destructive and negatively affect the porch's appearance. 

All these things can alter a building'S historic character. 

To preserve the character of the porch, as well as the 

historic building itself, it is essential to plan carefully 

before undertaking any work on a historic porch. 

This Preservation Brief provides guidance for the 

everyday care of wood porches on older buildings. 

It focuses primarily on the maintenance and repair 

of wood porches, but acknowledges other, often 

challenging, work as well. This publication provides 

a brief history of the American porch and identifies 

its basic structural and decorative elements. 

It outlines how to assess the condition of 

a wood porch, how much work may be 

needed, and how to develop a specific scope 

of work. Detailed guidance on each level of 

work is provided, beginning with routine 

maintenance, followed by general repairs for 

various porch components, and concluding 

with replacement of parts that are beyond 

repair. Recommendations are provided for 

work that may require professional assistance. 

Although the Brief primarily addresses 

residential buildings, much of the information 

can be applied to wood porches on any 

structure. 

Evolution of the Porch 

Figure 1. Distinctive yet different, these front porches are important features along 

the street. The rhythm would be diminished if the front porch from one of the houses 

was dramatically altered or removed. Photo: Aleca Sullivan. 

In colonial America, buildings in the northern 

colonies tended to echo British precedents 

with small gable-roofed extensions to protect 

main entrances. Whether open or enclosed, 

these extensions were called porches (from 

1 
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Figure 2. Porches not only help define the architectural character of 

a building but also serve as living areas. They can be designed to 

take advantage of surrounding views. Cedar Grove, the home of the 

nineteenth-century landscape painter Thomas Cole, has an L-shaped 

veranda on the front and a two-story porch on the rear, providing an 

enviable view of the Catskill Mountains. Photo: Marilyn Kaplan. 

Medieval English and the French word porche, which 

stems from the Latin, porticus). Also known as porticos 

when supported by columns, these covered entrances 

were sometimes designed to respect classical order and 

details, especially on more stylish buildings. Hooded 

doors or small covered entryways flanked by benches, 

often called stoops (from the Dutch stoep for step) that 

served as short covered transitions to and from the 

outdoors were common features, especially in New York 

and the mid-Atlantic colonies. 

During the late 1700s and early 1800s as longer shedroofed porches became more common, they were 

typically called piazzas, as they were then called in 

England. This term, still popular in some areas of North 

America, is adapted from the Italian word for open 

space or plaza. An alternate term for a long open porch, 

veranda, reflects British colonial design influence from 

the Indian sub-continent. 

In French colonial areas, such as the Louisiana Territory, 

houses were often built with broad roofs extending well 

beyond the exterior walls to form surrounding porches, 

known as galleries. Porches were also important 

features of Spanish colonial buildings. In California, 

for example, many adobe ranches featured a portal 

with the roof supported by wooden posts. African 

and Caribbean influences can also be found in North 

American porch traditions. 

By the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, 

porches became more common in larger, wealthier areas 

such as Philadelphia, Boston and Charleston. In both 

the North and the South, formal colonnades with tall 

columns dressed in classical orders were sometimes 

added to help dignify public buildings, hotels, and 

mansions. This trend continued through the 1830s 

and 1840s, as the Greek Revival became the dominant 

architectural style in many areas of North America. 

The social role of porches as a transition space between 

indoors and outdoors and as a link between private and 

public realms evolved during the 1800s. By offering 

grand entrances and sheltered landings with views of 

the surroundings, prominent porches became expected 

features of inns, hotels and resort spas, where they could 

serve as promenades, social gathering spots, and refuges 

for more private retreats. Porches were also added to 

private homes to serve many of these same functions 

(Fig 2). As the country began to thrive and expand, 

porches became more than just covered entrances or 

ceremonial features; they became an integral part of 

domestic social life 

Some of the most significant factors that aided 

this shift were America's industrialization and 

later suburbanization. As improvements to mass 

production methods helped spur industrial growth, 

many Americans had more money to spend and more 

leisure time. Meanwhile a growing middle class was 

moving to new suburban neighborhoods. Inspired by 

the pattern books of Andrew Downing and George 

Woodward and the published designs of such architects 

as Alexander Jackson Davis and Calvert Vaux, the 

homes of these mid-1800s suburban neighborhoods 

were typically ornamented by elaborate porches dressed 

with fancy millwork. By this time, millwork catalogues 

and builders' pattern books offered a wide variety of 

designs for porch parts. With mass production, these 

fancy brackets and other ornamentation became less 

expensive, making it easier and more affordable to 

construct decorative porches (Fig 3). With mechanized 

wood turning lathes, the cost of posts, balusters and 

decorative spindle work also decreased to a level 

affordable by many. Adding a porch with wood 

ornamentation could enhance even the smallest 

and simplest of houses. Even older homes could be 

modernized with a fancy porch addition, stylized to 

the latest fashion trends. Such changes culminated in 

the large, highly decorated wrap-around porches of the 

Queen Anne style. 

The second half of the nineteenth century was the golden 

era of porches. The social role of the porch increased as 

it evolved into an outdoor parlor, a true extension of the 

house into the landscape. Often partially screened by 

shrubs, porches could provide occupants with discreet 

opportunities for social contacts that might otherwise be 

difficult to achieve in an age obsessed with manners and 

proprieties. For many, sitting on the porch became an 

important part of their daily routine. Perhaps President 

Rutherford B. Hayes best summed up the love that 

Victorian-era Americans felt towards their porches when 

he recorded in his journal in 1873: "The best part of the 

present house is the veranda. But I would enlarge it. I 

want a veranda with a house attached." 

By the early twentieth century, the hygiene movement, 

which stressed that access to fresh air could help prevent 

or remedy such diseases as tuberculosis, contributed to 

the development and proliferation of the sleeping porch. 
These porches were usually located on the second 

floor next to bedrooms. This era also saw the rise in 

use of insect screening on porches to guard against the 

discomfort of mosquitoes and the diseases they spread, 

such as yellow fever and malaria. 

While innovations fostered the proliferation of porches 

in the nineteenth century, new inventions helped lead 

to its decline in the twentieth. As the automobile 

boom of the early twentieth century made it easier for 

people to get out of the house for entertainment and 

relaxation, porches began to lose popularity, especially 

as architectural styles and social attitudes changed. With 

the telephone, neighbors and friends could chat without 

personally meeting. And housing styles popularized 

in the construction boom after World War II often 

omitted front porches all together as backyard patios 

became the focus of private outdoor activities. Finally 

in the mid-twentieth century the broad availability of 

air conditioning and television enticed many people to 

stay inside at night and brought the golden era of the 

American porch to an end. 

Figure 3. Throughout the late nineteenth and early twentieth 

centuries, millwork catalogues offered a wide variety of designs for 

porch parts, including columns, newels, balusters, spindles and 

brackets. As extolled in the Cedar Rapid Sash & Door Company's 

Standards Design Book, stock parts made embellishments to porches 

affordable both for new construction and "updating" existing homes. 

Courtesy of Charles Fisher. 

Understanding the History and Significance 

ora Porch 

In preserving historic buildings, it is important to 

understand the history and evolution of a particular 

structure and what features contribute to its historic 

character. This is especially applicable when working 

with historic porches since they usually are prominent 

features, significant to the character of a building. 

Answers to the following questions will help establish 

the significance of a porch. 

What has the porch looked like in the past? 

Early photographs, insurance maps, or tax records can 

provide useful information. These may be found at city 

or county offices, historical societies, libraries or even 

from former owners or neighbors. Such documents may 

indicate the footprint of the building or show long-lost 

details of the building's appearance. Physical evidence 

of historic porch footings may exist. Paint shadows of 

a former roofline or moldings can provide clues about 

details now missing. Old porch parts may have been 

"stored" under the deck during past repairs. 

What, if any, changes have taken place to the historic 

porch over the years? On many porches elements such 

as columns, balusters, and finish details correspond with 

the design and detailing on the rest of the house. With 

other porches, the style of these features may differ from 

the rest of the building, but may reflect an important 

chapter in its history. Sometimes, parts of porches 

may have been lost due to neglect or remodeling. 

Questions about what historic fabric remains, what has 

been altered over time, and whether earlier changes 

are now an integral part of the historic character 

should be resolved before planning major porch work. 

Determining the historical evolution of the house may 

require both physical and archival research and in some 

cases the professional eye of an architectural historian. 

What are the character defining features of the porch? 

The open qualities are one of the key features of most 

historic porches. Overall size, shape and design are 

obviously important components as well. There are 

numerous other contributing features which may exist, 

including the shape of the porch roof, the way a large 

porch is divided into distinct bays as with columns, the 

nature of the supporting foundation, the style and size 

of columns and balustrade, and whether the porch is 

raised or largely at grade. The simplicity of a porch or 

its richness in detail will also help define it. Materials 

are usually important as well, not just the wood features, 

but also whether other materials exist such as masonry 

columns and steps (Fig 4). 

How does the porch contribute to the building's 

overall appearance? The size and location of a porch 

and how much of the historic features survive will help 

define its significance. A highly ornate porch across 

much of the front facade may be the most distinctive 

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The Anatomy of a Porch 

a - Pier, penetrates ground, supports floor structural 

system and columns 

b - Fascia covering floor framing 

c - Floor (or deck) 

d - Bed Molding covering joint between fascia and floor 

e - Column supporting entablature above 

Entablature (f, g, h) 

f - Architrave of entablature 

g - Frieze of entablature 

h - Cornice of entablature 

Roof Railing (i, j, k, 1) 

i-Newel (or Pedestal) of roof railing 

j - Balusters of balustrade 

k - Top rail of balustrade 

I - Bottom rail of balustrade 

Balustrade around floor (m, n, 0) 

m - Top rail of balustrade 

n - Balusters of balustrade 

o - Bottom rail of balustrade 

Structural system of deck (p, q, r) 

p - Girder rests on piers and ledgers, support joists 

q - Ledger fastened to house sill, supports girder 

r - Joist fastened to girder, supports floor 

Roof Structural System (s, t, u) s - Beams inside the entablature span from column to 

column, support plate 

t - Plate of the entablature rests on beams, supports 

roof rafters and ceiling beams 

u - Rafter of the roof structural system 

Drawing courtesy of Thomson Education Direct. 
feature of the entire house, while a small simple 

porch on an otherwise plain cottage may be equally 

significant. The architectural style of a porch may 

relate to the building and may help define its character. 

Sometimes a later style porch may have been added to a 

building or may have replaced an earlier porch. In such 

cases, the later porch may have acquired importance in 

its own right. On the other hand, a later porch may be 

of such poor quality that it detracts from the building's 

historic character. Because porches are so diverse in 

terms of style, size, shape and detail, their significance 

should be assessed on a case-by-case basis with an 

understanding of the overall importance and evolution 

of the building. 

Assessing the Condition 

Before undertaking most repairs, it is important to 

assess the condition of the porch. The assessment 

is greatly facilitated if the porch has been regularly 

maintained and a record of past work is available. 

In most cases, however, a condition survey must 

rely almost exclusively on the physical examination 

of the porch, documenting the findings with notes, 

photographs or sketches. 

Many older porches were constructed using good 

construction practices and materials. As a result, 

porches that are over 100 years old are not uncommon. 

Most porch deterioration can be attributed to the lack 

of proper maintenance. Important questions to address 

in assessing the condition of the porch include the 

following: 

How is the porch constructed? A porch is rarely an 

independent, unattached structure. It may, however, 

have its own foundation, attached to the house only 

along the deck and the roof. Alternatively, it may be 

an included or engaged porch that is integrated with 

the actual structure of the house. The relationship 

between the porch and the house is important. If 

the outer support posts are decayed or if foundation 

piers are sinking, the roof structure may be pulling 

away from the house. Many porch decks are fastened 

to the main building on a ledger, a horizontal board 

along the house's foundation. A decaying ledger may 

compromise the structural integrity of the porch and 

can represent a major safety issue. 

Are the foundation and structural members of the 

deck sound and providing adequate support for 

the deck, posts and roof above? The porch structure 

needs to be sound at every level. Therefore, a visual 

inspection of the underside of the porch is necessary 

to determine its condition. Major cracks in structural 

members, failed joints, significant wood rot, or evidence 

of widespread insect infestations (termites, carpenter 

ants or powder post beetles, for example) are usually 

signs of serious structural damage. Such conditions 

may require consultation with a professional architect, 

Figure 4. Celebrating the 4th of July in 1912, this gathering of 

family and friends reflects the popularity of the porch as a social 

gathering place. While not overly ornate, each detail of the porch 

from the roofbalustrade to the turned columns to the simple lattice 

work facing the deck contributes to its character, creating in effect 

the dominant architectural feature of the building. Photo: © Utah 

State Historical Society 

engineer or building contractor familiar with old 

buildings. For an adequate assessment, it may be 

necessary to remove facing boards to check for potential 

decay in the structural sill behind (Fig 5). 

What is the condition of the porch? Porch foundations 

may be a continuous wall of masonry, a series of 

masonry or wood piers or metal pipes, or a combination 

of these. Missing sections of the foundation, crumbling 

masonry mortar joints, or areas where the sill or 

joists no longer fully rests on the foundation may 

represent serious deficiencies. What appear to be deep 

foundation footings may only be stones or cement 

blocks sitting on top of the ground. The footings must 

be stable enough to adequately support the porch 

in its current or intended use. The smell of mold or 

appearance of fungal growth on wood beneath the 

porch is an indication of deficient air circulation and 

that conditions exist for wood decay. Recent changes 

that can contribute to deterioration should be identified 

for correction, such as a clothes dryer vent dumping 

warm moist air underneath the deck. The enclosure of 

original air vents in crawl spaces or the boarding up of 

latticework between piers are other changes that will 

usually promote an unwanted moist environment. 

Are the porch posts providing adequate support? 

Posts, pillars or columns usually help support the porch 

roof or an upper deck. Establishing what the posts 

5 
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Figure 5. Even historic porches that appear to be in total disrepair may be repairable. While the roof needed replacement, much of this porch was 

repaired, including such features as the decorative columns, ornamental brackets, and balustrade. Photos: John Leeke. 

are made of and how they are constructed will aid in 

understanding how they function and may deteriorate 

over time (Fig.6). Although the posts on a wood porch 

are commonly made of wood, they may be of masonry 

or metal or a combination of materials. Large round 

columns usually are made of wood staves similar to the 

way barrels are constructed; smaller diameter columns 

may be solid. A sag in the deck below or a faltering 

foundation can impact the supporting role of a column 

or post above. Wood columns and posts are prone to 

water seeping into open joints, particularly in the base 

and the lower end of the shaft. It is not uncommon 

to find that older columns have had patches and 

replacement bases. 

Is the roofing and drainage system keeping the water 

away from the porch? Porches were designed to shed 

water. This means water will move away both from 

the building and the porch and not pond and saturate 

the wood. Continuously high moisture levels promote 

fungal growth that eventually causes wood to decay. 

Peeling paint on ceiling boards in a specific location 

is a sign of a possible roof leak. Clogged or missing 

downspouts and gutters can cause erosion at the 

foundation and can contribute to reverse-grade draining 

that is directing water under the porch instead of into 

the yard. Inadequately sloped porch floors can result 

in improper drainage and promote deterioration as 

exhibited, for example, by cupping floorboards. 

What is the flooring condition? The porch component 

most subject to decay is the flooring. Often decay 

starts at the exposed ends of the boards or where 

cracks, checks or open joints have occurred and are 

exposed to the weather. Flooring should be checked 

frequently for peeling paint, rotted wood, and for loose, 

cupping or splintery boards. Where water is ponding, 

there is insufficient slope away from the building, a 

condition that should be corrected. Floor deterioration 

can also start in unlikely places such as the result of 

frequent hose washing to remove dirt or the placement 

of plant stands directly on the floor without proper 

moisture barriers. Firewood stored on a porch may 

trap moisture on the floor and harbor active insect 

infestation that can be ruinous to a wood porch. Thick 

floor mats and carpeting also may trap moisture, 

leading to premature decay. 

Is there evidence of general wood decay? 

Wood deterioration may take different forms such 

as fungal decay, insect infestation or even sunlight 

degradation of exposed unfinished wood. Decay may 

be present where two wood surfaces meet and are not 

adequately protected from water, such as along open 

joints or behind moldings. Dark streaks, discoloration, 

and widespread peeling paint on a finished ceiling 

suggest excessive moisture or water leakage. It may be 

necessary to remove several finished boards to properly 

identify the cause of the problem and to insure damage 

has not extended to structural members behind. Trails of 

carpenter ants are another sign of potential decay since 

they will infest moist decaying wood. Where inadequate 

painting has left wood exposed for a long time, damage 

to the wood surface from light itself will occur, typically 

indicated by wood discoloration. Without sanding or 

scraping back to a sound wood surface, repainting will 

result in premature failure of the paint film. 

Figure 6. A traditional way to extend the life of porch posts was to 

place posts on metal feet, thereby providing a separation between the 

wood post and wood deck. This helped to prevent the wood post from 

rotting at the base. Early post feet were simple iron bars bent unto a 

stirrup shape. By the late nineteenth century manufactured cast-iron 

feet were common, consisting of a pair of disks separated by a short 

pipe. Post feet are still available today. Courtesy of Old-House 

Journal/Brian McNeil. 
Are there open cracks or joints in the woodwork? 

Tightly sealed connections keep water out. Where 

individual boards come together, cracks in woodwork 

and joints can eventually become a major problem 

(Fig.7). Cracks are primarily caused by movement and 

water penetration. Movement of structural members 

beneath the finished woodwork can shift the position 

of individual boards and trim, breaking open the 

thin coating of paint over joints. This condition is 

common on porches with shallow foundations that are 

subject either to annual winter frost heaving or where 

soil conditions undergo major seasonal changes in 

moisture content. Changes in the moisture content of 

the wood itself due to repeated wetting and drying or 

changes in seasonal humidity can also cause noticeable 

expansion and shrinkage across the width of a board. 

This provides opportunities for water to penetrate 

unprotected areas. 

Does peeling paint indicate deeper problems? 

An unbroken layer of paint covering all wood surfaces is 

the first line of defense against moisture causing decay. 

Over time, even hairline paint cracks can allow water 

to penetrate, causing paint to peel down to bare wood. 

Such peeling occurs near breaks in the film, at opened 

joints, or where the paint has been scratched or scraped. 

Peeling can also occur over large areas where there is 

high moisture and insufficient ventilation. Areas of 

particular concern include the crawl space beneath the 

porch deck, inside columns that lack ventilation, and 

in a roof structure that has a finished ceiling and lacks 

ventilation. If heavy paint build-up exists on columns, 

floors and trim, moisture can be trapped within the 

wood, resulting in the loss of paint adhesions and 

eventual wood decay. 

Are trees, shrubbery and flowerbeds threatening the 

porch? Shade trees can make the porch a cool oasis, 

but the branches of a nearby tree rubbing on the roof, 

gutters or wood trim often will cause damage. Tree roots 

may destabilize porch foundations or supports. Bushes 

growing against the porch and not trimmed back on a 

regular basis may block wood porch components from 

drying breezes, thereby letting moisture build up in the 

woodwork. Flowerbeds and mulch around the porch 

that are not properly sloped downward in a grade away 

from the house will promote moisture problems. 

Defining the Scope of Work 

Once the historical and physical assessments are 

complete, it is important to define the scope of work. 

How much and what kind of work will need to be 

done to make the porch structurally sound while 

preserving its historic character, or to recover its historic 

appearance if portions are extensively deteriorated, 

altered or missing? Any part of the porch that defines 

its historic character should be repaired or replaced 

to match. Since the porch may display varied levels 

of deterioration, the spectrum of work in one project 

Figure 7. Common problems with porches that can contribute to 

serious wood decay include cracks in woodwork and joints that have 

opened up. Both provide an easy path for water seepage. Trapped 

moisture can foster peeling paint, wood decay and insect infestation. 

Open joints and cracks should be checked for evidence of more serious 

decay and marked for caulking or repair. Photo: John Leeke. 

can include maintenance, repair, and replacement. 

When laying out the scope of work for the project, each 

individual component and decorative element of the 

porch should be identified, and linked with the work 

needed for that item. 

Undertaking the Work 

The highlighted work approaches in this section are 

based on The Secretary of the Interior's Standards for the 

Treatment of Historic Properties and the Accompanying 

Guidelines for Rehabilitating Historic Buildings. The 

Standards and Guidelines provide a sound philosophical 

and practical framework for achieving the highest 

retention of historic materials and character possible. 

Thus, the familiar hierarchy is applied: maintain, repair, 

and then replace only if necessary. Contemporary 

alterations are discussed in a separate section. 

Preservation and Maintenance 

There are a variety of tasks that can be done on a regular 

basis to extend the life of a porch. In addition, a visual 

inspection of the porch should be made every spring 

and fall to determine if more in-depth repairs 

are necessary. Fortunately, ongoing maintenance 

significantly reduces both the need and cost for later 

repair work and represents good preservation practice. 

When properly maintained, a well-constructed porch 

can last for decades. 

Routine Cleaning and Other Surface Work 

Since many porches are essentially another living space, 

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extending housekeeping to this space makes practical 

sense. Regular maintenance includes sweeping the 

wood porch decking, and, if needed, an occasional 

damp mopping. Removing dirt and leaves by sweeping 

is preferable to frequent hosing off the deck with 

water. The latter can saturate the woodwork, thereby 

promoting decay. Frequent sweeping will reduce the 

accumulation of abrasive materials, such as dirt and 

sand. While visually pleasing to some, vines and plants 

should be kept trimmed away and not be trained to 

grow onto or allowed to grow beneath porches. Plants 

and vines unfortunately reduce ventilation, promote 

a moist environment for insects and decay, accelerate 

open wood joints and impede cyclical maintenance. As 

an alternative, traditional freestanding trellises can be 

used to support plant growth away from the porch. 

There are certain precautions that are recommended 

for wood floors. Rubber mats, rugs or indoor/outdoor 

carpeting can trap moisture and condensation on their 

underneath side and should not be used on a wooden 

porch floor. Keeping flower pots up off the wooden 

deck will help prevent moisture buildup and decayed 

spots - wood, clay or metal "trivets" that hold the 

pots an inch or more off the wooden deck are helpful, 

but the pots should be moved to different locations 

periodically. In colder climates, light snow can be swept 

off the porch. Snow shovels with a hard rubber leading 

edge or plastic shovels cause less damage to wood than 

metal, while paint in good condition helps ice to release 

more easily. Sand or clean kitty litter can be sprinkled 

on ice to prevent slipping; however, they should be later 

swept off the porch, as they are abrasive. Salt (sodium 

Figure 8. Decay can start when wood is left exposed to the weather 

or where joints open up. An inexpensive way to extend the life of the 

existing porch paint without jeopardizing the historic material is spot 

paint and caulk where needed every year or two. This cost-effective 

procedure is particularly effective in maintaining wood porches where 

the exposure to weathering is high. Photo: John Leeke. 

chloride) is not recommended for ice removal on older 

porches as it can promote corrosion and failure of nails 

and other fasteners. Magnesium chloride is an alternate 

de-icing salt that is less corrosive and less damaging to 

masonry and plants. If any de-icing salt is used, be sure 

to scrub and rinse off the porch deck in the spring. Boot 

scrapers and brush-mats at the bottom of the stairs are 

recommended for muddy areas. 

Painting 

Spot painting and resealing of open joints should be 

undertaken at least every other year (Fig. 8). Heavily 

used stair treads may require more frequent paint 

touchup. When peeling paint or bare wood is evident, 

inspect to ensure it is not signaling deeper problems, 

such as decay. With sound wood, scrape off the loose 

paint, sand, prime, and repaint the area. Where lead 

paint is present, appropriate lead hazard precautions 

and procedures apply. Only top-quality exterior primers 

and paints are recommended, selecting for the deck and 

stairs specially formulated paints. Where wood porch 

steps are exposed to moisture, grit added to the wet 

paint during application will help improve safety. 

Repair 

Many repairs may be successfully undertaken 

by property owners, while major projects often 

require the special knowledge and equipment of an 

experienced contractor. Repairs generally include 

patching and reinforcement of historic materials. The 

roof and foundation are particularly important to the 

preservation and the structure of a historic porch yet 

they often receive much less attention than ornamental 

features. Their neglect will usually lead to more costly 

work. Repairs to features such as a balustrade or 

flooring can encompass limited replacement in kind 

when the porch part is severely deteriorated or when 

a part of a repeated feature is missing altogether. Some 

common porch repairs are discussed in this section. 

Filling Open Cracks or Joints 

To seal open cracks or joints, start by scraping off 

the paint back a few inches from the opening and 

removing old caulk to expose bare wood. The opening 

should be examined for any signs of wood decay, 

and to determine if the joint is loose due to a loss of 

connection, such as rusted nails. After correcting any 

problems, apply a water-repellant wood preservative 

that can be painted. Such preservatives are either an 

oil-based or waterborne solution of oils or waxes with 

mildewcide, fungicide and pesticide added. Then 

apply a high quality exterior wood primer to the wood 

surfaces where a sealant or caulk is to be used. Most 

open cracks or joints then can be filled with a sealant 

or caulk, while larger ones may need the addition of a 

backer rod. In some cases, small metal flashing over the 

crack or open joint may be more effective and longer 

lasting but, when used, care should be taken with 

proper installation. The final step is painting. 
Patching with a Dutchman Repair 

This traditional technique is often 

used to repair localized cases 

of decayed wood and, when 

undertaken with skill and care, will 

serve as a permanent repair (Fig. 9). 

If the damaged area has a structural 

function, temporary bracing or other 

support will be necessary. Otherwise 

the first step after removing any 

paint around the damaged area is 

to chisel or mechanically remove 

the decayed wood. It is best to 

use the same type of wood being 

replaced and the new or recycled 

wood should be seasoned to avoid 

shrinkage. The repair procedure 

involves cutting a piece of wood, 

called a dutchman, slightly larger 

than the area of damage that has 

been cut out. The dutchman then 

is laid over the damaged area and 

an outline scribed into the original 

wood surface below. Next, a chisel 

or router is used to follow the 

scribed line to form an opening in 

the existing wood for the new piece. 

Figure 9. The ends of porch roof rafters are often susceptible to moisture decay. When concealed 

by a soffit or ceiling, rafters can be repaired by adding new sister boards. Where roof rafter ends 

are exposed, splicing new wood onto the old (dutchman repair) and use of epoxy consolidants and 

fillers both preserve sound historic fabric while retaining the historic appearance. 

Photo: Paul Marlowe, Marlowe Restorations. 

As a preventive measure, an appropriate fungicide 

should be applied to the surrounding old wood and 

allowed to dry. The dutchman is then glued into place 

with waterproof adhesive, such as an epoxy formulated 

for wood. The repair is finished by trimming or sanding 

the surface of the new wood down flush with the 

surrounding existing surfaces, priming and painting. 

Patching with Epoxy or Wood Fillers 

There are a variety of commercial wood fillers. Cellulose 

based fillers consist of wood fiber and a binder and have 

been available in stores for many years. Only those 

suitable for exterior applications should be used and 

they will require a protective finish. Epoxies are a more 

contemporary product, commonly used by experienced 

contractors and woodworkers. Epoxies are petroleumbased resins created by mixing two components in 

accurate proportions that result in a chemical reaction. 

The result is durable, moisture-resistant consolidants 

and fillers that bonds tenaciously with wood, and can 

be sawn, nailed or sanded. Epoxies are for use only 

in areas that will be painted, as they do not take stain 

and deteriorate under sunlight. Since epoxies are more 

difficult to work with than other wood fillers, experience 

working with epoxies is needed for successful repairs. 

Repairing Railings and Balustrades 

Balustrades and railings are not only practical and safety 

features, they typically are highly visible decorative 

elements. Unfortunately, balustrades and balusters are 

frequently altered, covered, removed or completely 

replaced even though in most cases they can be repaired 

in a cost-effective manner. To preserve historic fabric, 

the repair of old balustrades and railings is always the 

preferred approach. A broken baluster usually is one in 

need of repair, not replacement. 

Loose railings and balustrades present unsafe 

conditions and need to be repaired as soon as possible. 

Start by examining the points of attachment to 

determine exactly why the railing or balustrade is loose. 

Common reasons include rusted fasteners, decayed 

wood, or physical stress that has broken the fasteners 

or split the wood. Paint and decayed wood must be 

removed. Where fasteners are broken yet the wood is 

sound, the balustrade can be re-fastened using hotdipped galvanized or stainless steel nails or screws, 

setting the heads of the fasteners below the surface of 

the wood and using a wood filler to cover and seal. 

Next repair deteriorated wood by using a dutchman 

or wood-epoxy repair. The repaired joints then can be 

sealed and painted. 

Replacing Missing Balusters 

The balusters help comprise a wood balustrade and 

come in three general styles: simple rectangular shape; 

flat, pattern-sawn (usually a board with some decorative 

edge or cutout); and turned. It may be necessary to 

replace certain balusters that are beyond repair or 

missing altogether. Some are easy to replace with new 

matching balusters while others can be more challenging 

in terms of both design and costs. Finding or affording 

replacement balusters may take time since they should 

match the historic baluster as closely as possible. In 

the meantime, unsafe balustrades can be temporarily 

stabilized, introducing temporary new material that 

soon will be replaced. 

9 
10 

In replacing individual balusters, simple, rectangular 

balusters should not be replaced with pattern-sawn 

or turned ones unless physical or pictorial evidence 

survives which indicate they previously existed 

historically on that particular porch. Such an alteration 

can change the historic appearance of the porch or be 

incompatible with the character of the building. 

Determine the size and shape of the missing balusters 

either by examining adjacent ones or temporarily 

removing an existing baluster as a sample. Heavy 

paint buildup should be removed so that the original 

dimension can be established. Scrape and clean the joint 

locations and make repairs to any deteriorated areas. 

A new baluster is then fabricated to match the original 

in design and material, either on site or by taking a 

drawing or sample to a local woodworking shop. The 

new baluster should be made one-half inch longer than 

needed on both ends. Measurements are taken from the 

bottom surface of the top rail to top surface of the 

bottom rail. Joints on the new baluster can be laid 

out with a pencil, using a sliding bevel to transfer any 

angles, and the new baluster trimmed to fit with a 

handsaw. After test fitting, the ends and any exposed 

end-grain of the baluster need to be sealed with a 

high-grade primer or epoxy. Next, apply a paintable 

water-repellant coating to all exposed wood surfaces, 

and apply a primer. The baluster can then be fastened in 

place with hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails, 

and the nails set. Finally, seal joints and fastener holes 

and paint the baluster. 

Repairing Column Plinths and Bases 

Columns not only enrich the historic character of the 

porch, they provide support for the roof structure above. 

Because of their detail and complex construction they 

can be costly to repair or replace, making maintenance 

and minor repairs important. Column plinths and bases 

tend to deteriorate because of their exposed location 

on the outer edge of a porch (Fig. 10). Leaking gutters 

can result in water draining into the entablature and 

down into hollow columns, while clogged or capped 

gutters can allow water to pour down and splash 

back onto the column bases. Open joints and limited 

wood decay can be repaired using methods previously 

discussed. Column repairs usually are undertaken by 

an experienced carpenter, since it may involve structural 

support of the roof above. 

Repairing Floorboards and Ceiling Boards 

Floors should slope down toward the outer porch edge 

for proper drainage. If drainage is inadequate, moisture 

buildup will cause deterioration of the floorboards. 

Flooring can also deteriorate due to movement in the 

supporting structure below. If a floorboard is soft or 

broken, the extent of decayed or split wood can be 

determined by probing gently with an awl. The existing 

floorboard can then be removed, cutting the length if 

needed so that the end will center on the next nearest 

joist or girder. Once the board has been removed, 

the structural framing beneath should be examined 

for deterioration and to ensure it is sound. A new 

floorboard is then cut to length, and the outer edge 

shaped to match the adjacent boards. After priming the 

replacement board, nail it in place and repaint. 

If a section of the ceiling is deteriorating, it is likely 

that there is a roof or gutter problem. To determine the 

cause of deterioration, inspect the ceiling, gutters and 

roof, including the internal roof structure. After making 

necessary repairs, the ceiling boards can be repaired in 

much the same manner as a deteriorated floorboard. 

Repairing the Porch Roof and Gutters 

With roof leaks, the entire porch is at risk. Leaks can 

promote decay in roof rafters, ceiling joists, and columns 

as well as in areas more easily to detect such as the 

ceiling and fascia. Inspect the roof covering, gutters and 

flashing for deterioration and improper performance. 

They can then be repaired or replaced, as needed, to 

keep water out of the structure. Avoid having the 

gutters and downspouts on the main roof drain onto a 

porch roof. 

Repairing the Foundation 

Unstable foundation supports can cause serious damage 

Figure 10. This nineteenth century porch column is made of wood staves, similar to the way a wood barrel is put together. After replacing the torus 

and making dutchman repairs to the apophyge along the base, the column and pedestal are ready to be reinstalled on the porch. Photos: NPS files. 
to a historic porch. There are numerous causes and 

solutions. If the posts supporting the porch deck rest on 

stones or brick set directly on the ground, there can be 

seasonal shifts due to the changing moisture content of 

the soil or freeze/thaw conditions that will require regular 

attention. Under certain conditions, it may be advisable 

to extend footings for the posts below the frost line. 

Where moisture problems exist, improved drainage may 

be necessary. It is not uncommon to find that masonry 

joints in the foundation wall or piers have deteriorated 

as a result of rising damp, where moisture from the soil 

percolates up through mortar joints. This condition may 

lead to the eventual breakdown of the mortar and even 

old brick and soft stone. In such cases, it will be necessary 

to replace the areas of damaged masonry and repoint the 

mortar joints. 

With wooden posts, insect damage or rot may necessitate 

corrective measures to strengthen the foundation. 

Techniques can include one or more of the following: 

epoxy consolidation; dutchman repair; or the addition of 

supplemental supports to the foundation posts and joists. 

In some cases damage may be extensive enough that the 

only real solution is rebuilding the foundation. 

Repairing a Porch Apron 

The apron, skirt, or latticework is a highly visible and 

functional porch feature. An apron keeps animals out 

from under the porch, while at the same time allowing 

air to circulate, preventing unwanted moisture buildup. 

Aprons typically are made up of a wood frame, 

surrounding either a simple lattice or a repetitive pattern 

of decorative sawn boards. Because the frame is so close 

to the ground, decay is common. Other causes of decay 

include plantings around the house that are growing too 

close to the latticework and improper water drainage. An 

apron may require partial or complete disassembly for 

proper repair. One or more of the apron frames should 

either be hinged or secured with turn buttons for easy 

access to under a porch for inspection and maintenance. 

Replacement 

When individual porch parts are deteriorated beyond 

the point of repair or missing altogether, replacement 

is necessary. To retain the historic character of the 

porch, the replacement parts should match the historic 

component as closely as possible in material, design, 

color, texture, and other qualities. To achieve this, 

existing evidence of the historic design, such as a baluster 

or column detail, or a tongue and groove floor design, 

should serve as a pattern for the replacement part. When 

replacing an element, it may provide a good opportunity 

to upgrade the wood to another species that is more 

decay resistant, or to one with a vertical grain that is 

more resistant to cupping or splintering. In limited 

cases, it may be appropriate to use a substitute material 

for the replacement material as long as it conveys a 

close visual match. Before replacing a deteriorated 

historic porch component, it is important to understand 

how it was constructed and installed, and what lead 

to its deterioration. If the replacement part does not 

sufficiently match the historic part, the character of the 

porch may be diminished, or even lost. If the cause of 

material failure is not addressed, the replacement will 

also fail. 

Replacing Porch Floorboards 

If a large section of the porch floorboards is deteriorated, 

the framing beneath may also be damaged and should 

be assessed. Replacing floorboards can often expand 

into repairing the structural sills, girders, and joists 

beneath. Complete floor replacement will likely require 

the removal of floorboards that are under structural posts 

or columns. This may necessitate the careful stabilizing 

in place or the removal of the posts or columns and the 

installation of temporary support for the roof structure. 

If the floor failure was caused by inferior wood, the wood 

quality can be improved at this time. However, the new 

wood flooring should match the existing in thickness, 

width, shape and texture. The slope of the floor should 

be maintained, or a slope may need to be created if none 

exists. A slope of % inch per foot or greater, away from 

the house, is needed for adequate drainage. Boards are 

usually laid in the direction of the slope, sloping down to 

the outer edge of the floor. 

Replacing Steps 

Porch stairs receive heavy usage and are close to the 

ground, making them predictable candidates for 

deterioration. Stairs should be repaired or, if necessary, 

replaced by an experienced carpenter who understands 

the safety codes and is experienced in fabricating custom 

stair parts to match original detailing without depending 

only on store-bought parts. 

Replacing Column Plinths and Bases, 

or Entire Columns 

When plinths and bases are deteriorated beyond repair, 

they can be replaced without replacing the column 

shaft, which may still be in good condition or require 

only minor repairs at the bottom. Such replacement 

will involve temporary shoring for the roof. One-story 

columns and shafts are often more easily removed 

during this work, while taller columns are sometimes 

supported in place. If only a few plinths or bases are 

deteriorated, it is often economical to have new ones 

made of wood to match. If numerous plinths and bases 

are deteriorated, replacing with bases made of rotresistant materials can make economic sense; however, 

care must be taken to ensure that all the visual qualities 

including design, size, shape, color and texture of the 

historic part are matched (Fig. 11). 

Entire columns may need to be replaced, but an owner 

should first consider all repair alternatives. Some 

contractors routinely recommend complete replacement 

of one or all columns due to the challenge of a clean 

repair (particularly with stave-built columns), or because 

they see the potential for more profit in complete 

replacement. If a contractor recommends complete 

11 
12 

Figure 11. The lower shaft of the porch columns had decayed as 

water wicked up through the end grain (top). The column shafts were 

repaired in place by cutting out the deteriorated wood and making 

repairs using epoxy consolidants and fillers. (bottom). The column 

bases were replaced. Photos: Paul Marlowe, Marlowe Restorations. 

replacement, other opinions should be sought to ensure 

repair is truly not feasible. Preserving the historic 

appearance of old columns is not the same as preserving 

historic columns. 

Where a replacement turned or staved column is 

needed, a local millwork may be able to match the 

profile or pattern. Alternatively, the Internet is helpful 

in identifying potential sources of replacement columns 

that can match the appearance of the remaining ones. 

Replacement Materials 

Wood 

When selective replacement is necessary, the key to 

success is the selection of suitable wood. Dimensional 

stability, decay resistance and paint holding ability are 

wood characteristics that effect durability. Wood that 

expands and shrinks too much can cause paint to crack. 

Substances found naturally in certain kinds of wood 

repel fungi and insects that destroy wood. Selecting 

wood that is relatively stable and naturally decay 

resistant helps avoid problems. 

The wood from trees cut one and two centuries ago was 

much different than most wood available today. The 

mature trees in older forests grew very slowly and, as a 

result, the annual growth rings were very close together. 

Today, trees grown by commercial companies for their 

lumber are fast growing so they can be harvested 

sooner. As a result, commercially farmed trees have 

annual growth rings much further apart, resulting in the 

cut lumber being less strong and decay resistant than 

older timber. These differences in quality are one of the 

reasons it makes sense to save old wood when possible. 

Wood Selection: When choosing wood for repair 

and replacement work, the species, grade, grain 

and environmental impacts should be taken into 

consideration. This is especially applicable to historic 

porches because of their high exposure to the weather 

and vulnerability to decay. The best species are 

those with good natural resistance to decay, such as 

redwood, cypress, cedar or fir. A clear (knot free) 

grade of wood is best; however, if clear wood is not 

readily available or too expensive, a grade with small 

or tight knots is acceptable. Finally, the use of more 

stable vertical grain lumber is preferable to flat grain 

boards. Vertical grain lumber expands and contracts 

less with changes in moisture content, resulting in 

reduce warping and checks. Paint thus will hold better. 

The downside to using vertical grain boards is the 

cost, which tends to be as much as two to three times 

the price of flat grain lumber in the same grade and 

species. However, this expense is typically recovered 

through lower maintenance costs over the years. Thus, 

a decay-resistant, high-grade, vertical grain lumber 

is the best choice for the replacement of deteriorated 

porch elements, particularly flooring, stairs and milled 

elements such as balusters and moldings. 

The best species to choose will vary depending on the 

region the house is located. For example, in the South, 

cypress is more available, making it the selection of 

choice in the region. Because of this wood's relative ease 

with which a carpenter can shape it, cypress is a good 

choice for replacing brackets and trim boards on a porch. 

In contrast, vertical grain Douglas fir is less workable, 

but is a very good choice for the replacement of porch 

floorboards in most climates. Although Douglas fir is 

from the Northwest, it is generally available throughout 

the country. For most protected trim boards on porches, 

white pine is a good choice as it is easy to work and 

is moderately decay resistant, especially if the wood 

is back-primed before installation. Availability of any 

specific wood will change annually based on market 

supply and demand. 
Wood Characteristics 

Species Cut or Grade Cost Workability Resistance to Resistance to Paint Holding 

Decay Cupping Ability 

Clear, Vertical-grain, $$$ Fair Excellent Excellent Excellent 

Redwood all-heart 

"B" Select, flat-grain $$ Fair Excellent Good Good 

Cedar Clear $$ Fair Excellent Good Fair 

Cypress Clear $$ Fair Excellent Fair Good 

Douglas Fir "C" & better, $$ Fair to Poor Good to Fair Excellent Fair Vertical-grain 

Southern "0" Select, flat-grain $ Fair Fair Good Fair 

Yellow Pine Vertical-grain $$$ Fair Fair Excellent Fair to Good 

Eastern "0" Select, flat-grain $ Excellent Fair Excellent Good 

White Pine Vertical-grain $$$ Excellent Fair Good Excellent 

Poplar Firsts and Seconds $ Good Poor Good Fair 

American Clear $$$ Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Mahogany 

This table summarizes the characteristics of just a few of the different species available, including the workability of the wood (indicating 

a better wood for decorative porch pieces), the resistance to decay (an important feature for all porch components), resistance to cupping (a 

wood highly resistant to cupping is a better choice for floor board replacement) and paint holding ability. The Cut or Grade is also listed, as a 

low-grade wood can perform very differently than a higher grade in the same species. Cost will vary depending on region and market supply 

and demand. In general, it is best to contact two or three local lumberyards to find the available woods with the characteristics needed in the 

local market. Source: Practical Restoration Report, Exterior Woodwork Details. 

Chemically Treated Wood: Chemical wood preservative 

treatments are available to resist insect and fungal 

attack, but care should be taken to avoid using ones 

that may cause environmental or health risks. Borate 

preservatives can be applied to surfaces or injected to 

penetrate and protect the entire volume of the wood. 

Preservatives with zinc napthenate can be applied to 

the wood surface, where necessary, especially to protect 

hidden joinery and the end grains of wood. Waterrepellants can also be used to help seal out moisture. 

Finally, primers and paints should be applied to both 

protect the wood and to maintain the historic character 

of the porch. Note that these treatments are different 

than those used on most pressure-treated wood, which 

is typically a plantation-grown southern pine of lower 

quality that is impregnated with chemicals. Pressuretreated lumber can be effective when used for hidden 

structural members like posts, joists and sills. However, 

because typical pressure-treated wood is very susceptible 

to the deterioration of checks, warping and splitting, 

especially when left unpainted, it is not a good substitute 

for the better quality wood that is needed for visible 

finish porch parts. 

Stock Components 

For over a century, prefabricated architectural parts have 

been sold through catalogues or at home improvement 

stores. Some companies still make generic, stock 

architectural components in the same general sizes 

and designs as those that were first manufactured. 

These components can be available in both wood and 

substitute materials. Thus, it may be possible to replace 

a historic stock component, such as an architectural 

grade column, with a new prefabricated column that 

matches the original. Unfortunately, these replacement 

parts are not designed to match the historic parts of 

any particular porch. Because traditionally there were 

many different porch elements, a wide range of styles 

and considerable regional variations, stock replacement 

parts available today are not often found to match what 

is needed in a specific porch repair project. When faced 

with deterioration of a few porch parts, all the historic 

material should not be removed in favor of a readily 

available stock design that does not match the historic 

appearance. The expressed goal may be to create a porch 

with a "consistent look," but this approach diminishes 

the building's historic character and authenticity. 

1'1 
14 

Plastic and Composites 

A variety of modern materials are marketed today as 

a substitute for wood. They are usually composite 

materials typically in the form of plastic resins, 

including vinyl (PVC), fiber-reinforced polymers and 

polyester resin. There are other products on the market 

as well, including medium density wood fiberboard 

and composite fiber-cement boards. The market is 

ever changing with the introduction of new synthetic 

materials and the re-formulation of existing ones. The 

more costly synthetic products tend to offer the best 

potential for matching historic features while offering 

good durability. This means that potential cost savings 

over new wood tends to be more long term than 

immediate. Such products generally are not carried in 

local home improvement stores but rather are available 

from building supply companies or direct through 

catalog sales. 

The historical significance of a particular property and 

its porch influences decisions regarding possible use 

of substitute materials. In general, greater emphasis 

is placed on authenticity and material integrity when 

maintaining and repairing individually significant 

historic properties. However, a front porch that is 

repeated on row houses may be one of the defining 

characteristics of the historic district and thus of 

importance to the entire streetscape. So, too, can the 

location and appearance of a porch influence material 

decisions, as with, for example, a prominent front porch 

with ornate detailing as opposed to a small porch over a 

rear door. 

Thus, when the historic porch contributes to the historic 

character of a building, the particular substitute material 

that is being considered should accurately match the 

appearance of the wooden feature being replaced. 

Composite materials that can be routed or shaped in the 

Figure 12. This old porch 

enclosure, located on the back side 

of a house, has acquired significance 

over time and is remarkable both in 

the appropriateness of its detailing 

for use by others today, as well as 

its high degree of maintenance. The 

enclosure is set behind the columns; 

the balustrade has been retained; 

and the light divisions and the size 

of the glass panes echo that of the 

windows above. Within each bay 

there are two well-crafted, inward 

swinging doors, providing for 

greater seasonal use of the porch. 

Photos: Charles Fisher. 

field to match specific pieces being replaced have greater 

potential for use in repairing a historic porch. Materials 

that cannot be shaped to match the visual appearance of 

the historic pieces being replaced usually are not suitable 

for use on historic buildings. 

Substitute materials need to be finished to match the 

appearance of the historic elements being replaced. In 

nearly all cases, this means that the material should be 

painted, or where historically appropriate, stained as 

with some porch ceilings. While there are substitute 

materials being marketed as pre-finished with either a 

plain flat surface or generic wood-grain texture, select 

those that can be painted or stained in the field. 

When a substitute material is to be used in conjunction 

with existing or new wood material, it is important to 

consider the differences in expansion and contraction 

due to temperature and moisture changes. Before 

making a decision, it is also important to understand 

how a particular substitute material will age, what its 

maintenance requirements are, and how the material 

will deteriorate. For example, sunlight can break 

down exposed surfaces of plastic resins, so painting 

the surfaces is needed just as with wood. Low and 

medium density plastic foam parts are easily damaged 

by abrasion and physical damage, exposing the interior 

foam to weathering. 

Wood porches are just that, porches made out of wood, 

just as a brick houses are made of brick and cast-iron 

porches are made of cast-iron. The type of materials 

used historically in the construction of a building helps 

define its character. Limited use of substitute materials 

that closely match missing or deteriorated features 

may not endanger this historic character, but wholesale 

replacement with substitute materials usually will. 
Considerations for Contemporary 

Alterations 

Enclosures 

Much of the character of a historic open porch is clearly 

its openness. Therefore, in most cases, a historic open 

porch should not be enclosed. If a porch enclosure is 

being considered, its significance and location - as well 

as the nature of the planned enclosure-play key roles 

in whether it can be done without changing the porch's 

and building's historic character. While it is almost never 

appropriate to enclose a front porch on a historic building 

to create interior space, enclosing a less prominent 

porch on a less visible elevation could have less impact. 

In addition, an enclosure should retain as many of the 

historic porch features as possible (Fig 12). 

Insect Screening and Awnings 

Traditionally, the seasonal use of porches was extended 

with screens and awnings. Screened porches have 

been popular since the advent of inexpensive and 

durable wire insect screening in late 1800s. Screens were 

often set unobtrusively behind railings and columns 

so the decorative components of the porch remained 

prominent and visible. Since screens can be damaged 

easily, the screening material was often set in slender, 

easy to repair, removable wood frames that could be 

installed during the warmer months, and stored in the 

winter. When screening a porch today, this historic 

precedent is recommended. Screened panels should 

have minimal wood framework painted either to match 

the porch or in a darker color to make the framing less 

visible. Decisions on whether screens should be installed 

inside the porch railings and posts, between the posts, or 

on the outside will depend on local traditions and on the 

design of the porch and trim. Screen doors on porches 

should be sized to fit proportionately with the porch, 

made of wood, and hung to swing out so insects are not 

brought inside with use. 

Awnings, drop curtains, and valances were common 

porch accessories during the nineteenth and well into 

the twentieth centuries. Both functional and decorative, 

these canvas features helped shield porches from the 

sun's direct rays, while their colorful stripes embellished 

and complemented the house's exterior. Some awnings 

were fixed in place; others were of a roller assembly that 

allowed owners to easily lower or retract the awning, 

depending on weather conditions. 

Today, modern solution-dyed acrylic fabrics-materials 

that resemble, but are more durable than canvas-are 

often used on porch awnings and drop curtains. 

When new awnings are installed on a historic porch, 

the selected awning should be appropriate in shape, 

material, size and color. Care should be used not to 

damage existing historic porch features such as columns 

or cornices. 

Temporary Enclosures 

Temporary enclosures allow a porch to be used in colder 

months while not permanently altering its appearance. 

In fact some have become historic features of buildings. 

Particularly in New England, there is a continuing 

tradition of installing relatively substantial glass and 

wood panels on porches during the winter, especially 

around an entrance door. These tended to have small 

divided lights. Sometimes porches were fully enclosed 

with a divided light glass door for entry, creating an 

enclosed vestibule that reduced the amount of cold air 

entering the house when the door was opened. Others 

consisted of simple sidewalls perpendicular to an existing 

entrance door, serving as a windbreak. Such enclosures 

were generally removed in the spring (Fig. 13). 

In recent years, some porches have been enclosed during 

the winter with plastic sheeting (polyvinyl) for perceived 

energy conservation or for creation of an enclosed space. 

Such a treatment generally diminishes a building's 

historic character and is not recommended for highly 

visible porches. 

New Permanent Enclosures 

Enclosure of a historic porch can result in significant 

changes in the appearance and character of the building. 

When considering the possible enclosure of a porch, a 

number of questions and concerns should be successfully 

addressed. 

Is the porch on a significant elevation of the building? 

A porch on a prominent elevation was there to be seen 

and its open qualities are visually important. Enclosing 

such a space should be avoided. 

Figure 13. Particularly in New England, there is a cold weather 

tradition of installing temporary glass and wood panels at entrance 

doors, thereby creating an enclosed vestibule. These enclosures with 

their small divided lights were generally removed in the spring. 

Photo: John Leeke. 

15 
16 

Figure 14. The enclosure of a prominent porch can dramatically change the historic character of a building. The L-shaped porch on this 1896 

Shingle-style New England residence was later enclosed with aluminum windows and screens. Recent owners elected to reopen the historic porch. 

Among the other work, it was necessary to correct structural damage, as with this post, where beneath the wood casing carpenter ants had done 

serious damage. In reopening the porch, the historic character of the residence has been brought back and the traditional use of the porch is once again 

enjoyed. Photos: Mark Landry, Landmark Services. 

Is the enclosure necessary? An enclosure will 

undoubtedly change the porch as a historic feature 

and may result in damage or loss of historic materials. 

Depending on the significance of the porch and the 

nature of the building, a new porch enclosure may 

also change the historic character of the building. 

Consideration should be given to alternate solutions 

such as recapturing underutilized space in an attic or 

basement (Fig 14). 

Is the porch a highly distinctive feature of the 

building? Even porches on secondary and rear 

elevations can be distinctive, such as a two-story porch 

on the side ell of a farmhouse. Porches ornamented 

with decorative trim that embellishes the house can also 

be distinctive. Enclosing these features should also be 

avoided whenever possible. 

Is the porch a feature repeated on a row of buildings 

in a historic district? Open front porches on a block of 

row houses can be not only important to an individual 

building but can also make up a significant feature 

of the streetscape. Enclosing such a porch usually is 

inappropriate even if a porch on an adjacent building 

already has been enclosed. 

Will the proposed enclosure encompass the entire 

porch? History has shown that the enclosure of a 

portion of a porch on a secondary elevation does not 

always alter the character of a building. In the past 

as indoor plumbing was introduced to old buildings, 

the partial enclosure of a one or two-story porch 

on a secondary elevation was a convenient means 

of providing new bathroom space while limiting 

disruption to the building's interior. Since early 

bathrooms were traditionally small in size, most of the 

existing porch could be retained as open space. It was 

common to create new walls set either between columns 

or behind them, since the columns usually served a 

structural as well as decorative purpose. Where sleeping 

porches with full-length louver shutters were present, 

the new wall could simply be set behind and the shutters 

retained and fixed in place. In both cases the resulting 

effect minimized the impact of the partial enclosure 

on the appearance of the building. This also provides 

us with an approach that may be appropriate for a 

particular project today. 

Will the enclosure result in the loss of considerable 

historic fabric? Unless the historic porch is so 

deteriorated that it is beyond repair, any consideration 

of enclosing all or part of a porch should incorporate 

retention of historic fabric. This may mean that the 

existing structural system needs to be augmented but 

generally not replaced. Distinctive features such as 

columns, brackets and balustrades should be retained 

and the new wall set behind them. 

Is the foundation adequate for the enclosure of the 

porch and the new use of the space? Porches were often 

built on simple posts or piers, some with only minimum 

footings. Such structural supports may be inadequate 

to carry the added load of the proposed changes and 

the typical low space beneath a first floor porch may 

make installing a new porch foundation difficult and 

expensive. Such installations may result also in an 

extensive loss of historic fabric. 

How will the proposed enclosure be viewed from the 

outside once the interior space is furnished? One of 

the approaches to enclosing a porch is to utilize near 

full glazing set behind existing columns in an attempt 

to retain a feeling of transparency. Whether such a 

treatment is successful depends on how it will look 

once it is constructed and how will the appearance 

on the outside be impacted by interior lighting, 
mechanical systems and furnishings. The traditional 

use of plantings and porch awnings for shade also 

provided extended privacy. If historically appropriate, 

an existing or new awning and plantings may help to 

reduce the impact of a porch enclosure on a secondary 

but visible elevation. 

Is the design of the proposed porch enclosure in 

keeping with the historic character of the building? 

Where the enclosure of all or part of a historic porch 

is appropriate, the selection of a compatible design 

and materials is important. Windows, doors, and wall 

material selection, along with how the new infill fits 

within the existing porch, are all factors to consider. A 

traditional technique of porch enclosures still used today 

involves the insertion in each column bay of one or more 

glass enclosures set in wood frames. The enclosures 

are located between or behind the columns, depending 

upon the nature of the porch, and mimic the pattern or 

size of glass panes found in historic windows on the 

building (Fig 15). An alternate treatment involves the 

use of much larger sheets of clear, non-reflective glass 

recessed behind the porch supports, balustrade and 

railing. This more contemporary treatment may be 

appropriate, depending upon the historic character of 

the building, location of the porch, and other factors (Fig 

16). Windows, doors, and wall material selection, along 

with how the new infill fits within the existing porch, are 

all factors to consider. 

Safety and Building Codes 

There are many building codes used by states and 

municipalities across the nation, with a majority of their 

requirements being very similar and focused on new 

construction. Building codes such as the International 

Figure 15. A traditional technique of porch enclosures still used 

today involves the insertion in each column bay of one or more glass 

enclosures set in wood frames. This enclosure is properly set back an 

entire porch bay from the front of the house and utilizes traditional 

light divisions and wood frames. The balustrade, added here for 

illustration purposes, shows the importance of retaining this linear 

feature within the enclosed bays. Photo: Charles Fisher. 

Figure 16. The use of near full glazing to enclose a porch may be 

appropriate depending upon the historic character of the building, 

location of the porch, how the interior space is to be treated, and 

other factors. This enclosure of a rear porch to create a conference 

room successfully utilizes large expanses of glass and narrow metal 

framing set behind existing porch elements (a through e). Where an 

additionaL horizontaL support was needed (j), the frame was pLaced at 

a Location that is found in many traditionaL insect screen enclosures. 

Photo: CharLes Fisher. 

Building Code and its companion, the International 

Existing Building Code, have been developed in recent 

years that are generally much more sensitive to existing 

and historic buildings, emphasizing the retention of 

historic fabric without jeopardizing life safety. These 

"proportional codes," as they are called, allow building 

inspectors greater flexibility to make decisions based on 

the specific circumstances of each building, and the type 

and extent of work planned. 

Successful rehabilitation work achieves a balance 

between building and safety code considerations and 

the retention of historic design and materials. The porch 

is no exception. The most common porch elements 

affected by code requirements are railing/balustrade 

height, baluster spacing, stair geometry, and structural 

system. When a historic porch is so deteriorated 

that a substantial portion must be replaced, modern 

building code requirements are usually triggered. These 

requirements are often more stringent for multi-family 

or commercial structures than single-family houses. 

17 
18 

Figure 17. The porch's structural system must be capable 

of supporting today's loads. In this case moisture led to the 

deterioration of the wood girder at the corner, creating a major 

structural deficiency (top). A new solid timber was installed to 

replace the girder (middle); alternatively a built-up girder could have 

been used since a fascia board would conceal it. The column base was 

repaired and portions replaced and the balustrade and column reset 

and secured (bottom). Photos: Paul Marlowe, Marlowe Restorations. 

It is important to ensure that the code-required work 

be done in a manner that is sympathetic to the historic 

character of the building. If building code requirements 

threaten the historic character of the porch, alternatives 

that reconcile the two should be explored. Many local 

jurisdictions issue waivers or variances for historic 

buildings, allowing for historic elements to be retained, 

when it can be demonstrated that safety will not be 

compromised. 

In the event that an alteration to a historic porch is 

required to make the porch safe to use, care should 

be taken in planning and undertaking the work. 

Fortunately, there are usually a number of options 

that are possible, although one is usually the most 

appropriate preservation solution. 

Structural Loads 

Ensuring that the structure's foundation can support 

the specified load is a primary safety issue for porches. 

Fortunately, repairs and upgrades to improve structural 

stability are generally made to the foundation at or 

below grade, and can usually be concealed under the 

porch or behind finish details. Weakened joists can often 

be strengthened with the addition of sister joists, epoxy 

structural repair, or the insertion of new concealed 

structural members (Fig. 17). 

Stairs 

Historic stair risers are sometimes too steep and treads 

too shallow to meet contemporary building codes or 

the special needs of the occupants. In the latter case, 

the addition of a simple handrail that meets code may 

suffice. In instances where there is another stairway that 

meets code, for example a side stair, it may be possible to 

retain the existing non-conforming historic stairway. 

Modifications to bring porch stairs into conformance 

with code can be difficult. Where buildings are set close 

to the street, it may not be possible to rebuild the stairs 

in the same direction to meet code if they will have to 

extend onto a public sidewalk. Unless a variance is 

obtained, it may be necessary to turn the stairs to be 

parallel rather than perpendicular to a building. Where 

wood stairs need to be rebuilt, the historic finish details, 

such as moldings, cut work and edge detailing, should 

be reflected in the new construction. One common 

mistake is the replacement of wood stairs or brick steps 

with concrete, a material that may not be in keeping 

with the historic building. 

Where a porch must be used as a wheelchair accessible 

entrance, two general issues arise. If there is an elevation 

difference greater than 1/2- inch between the porch deck 

and the front door threshold, a simple threshold ramp 

may suffice. In cases where the elevation difference is 

larger than can be accommodated by a simple threshold 

ramp, a level platform with sufficient turning radius at 

the door for a wheelchair may be necessary. The other 

issue is devising a means for wheelchair access from 

the grade to the porch deck when the porch is the only 
Figure 18. When a porch is used as a wheelchair accessible entrance, it may be possible to retain the historic stairs by adding a ramp parallel to the 

building. Through plantings and some re-grading, the new ramp built parallel to the building (left) allows retention of the historic stairs and does 

not impact the historic character of the entrance (right). Photo: Iowa State University Extension. 

entrance alternative. It may be possible to retain the 

historic stairs by adding another entrance to the porch 

with the construction of a ramp parallel to the building 

(Fig. 18). 

Baluster Spacing 

Codes generally require for children's safety that new 

balusters are spaced such that a four-inch sphere cannot 

fit through. Vertical balusters on older porches are 

often spaced farther apart than this. If modifications 

are required, inserting narrow metal rods between 

the existing balusters may be a compatible and 

inconspicuous solution, particularly if painted flat black 

or another dark color. This is generally preferable to 

moving the balusters closer together or adding more 

balusters to fill the gaps. 

Railing/Balustrade Heights 

Historic porches generally have handrails that measure 

28 to 30 inches in height from the floor. Current code 

requirements for new construction generally mandate 

that railings be 36 to 42 inches in height (often 36 inches 

for single family dwellings, and 42 inches for multifamily dwellings and commercial buildings). Raising 

the historic railing by as much as 30% or more can 

have a major impact on not just the proportions of the 

balusters, but also on the overall appearance of a historic 

porch. Adding a simple rail above the historic railing 

and painting it to hide its presence as much as possible 

is generally the least intrusive solution when this safety 

requirement must be met. Similarly, an existing bottom 

rail is sometimes set too high off the deck to meet 

contemporary code requirements. The addition of a 

simple wood rail or even a narrow metal pipe below the 

bottom rail will usually suffice (Fig 19). 

It is not uncommon to find historic porches with 

decks only several steps off the ground and with no 

railings. For owner-occupied residences undergoing 

rehabilitation, local codes usually will not require the 

addition of railings to these existing porches, provided 

the porch deck is below a certain height off the 

ground-typically from 18 to 24 inches. Where greater 

safety is warranted even though no railing is required, 

alternatives such as planting an adjacent hedgerow, 

installing planter boxes between columns, or raising 

the grade are worth considering. Where not practical 

or acceptable, a railing might be added so as to not 

noticeably impact the appearance of the historic porch. 

Any solution, however, should be simple and based on 

the character of a specific porch, and its appropriateness 

considered on a case-by-case basis. 

Figure 19. Historic porches generally have railings that measure 

28 to 30 inches in height from the floor. When additional height is 

necessary for safety, a simple rail, added for illustration purposes 

in this photograph, can usually be installed above the historic 

railing. Not only does this treatment allow retention of the historic 

balustrade, but it also has a minimum impact to the appearance of the 

porch. Photo: Charles Fisher. 

19 
Conclusion 

Wood porches have made an enduring contribution 

to our built environment. Porches are significant 

because of the special character they impart to a historic 

building and their role in our social and cultural 

history. A porch is an open sheltered part of a building, 

providing a covered entrance and, where larger, 

serving as an outdoor activity room. It represents an 

outward extension of a building, a place guests can 

initially be sheltered from the weather, even welcomed 

and entertained. 

Like all historic building features, wood porches require 

routine maintenance to prevent decay. Understanding 

how a porch is put together and the factors that 

cause deterioration will help considerably in carrying 

out both maintenance and needed repairs. Regular 

maintenance pays off not only with a good appearance 

but also by reducing the need for future repairs. With 

both maintenance and repairs, emphasis should be 

placed on preserving the historic fabric and significant 

features of a porch. Where components are deteriorated 

beyond repair or missing altogether, new pieces should 

be installed that match the historic ones. Fortunately, 

good craftsmanship and the use of quality replacement 

materials as needed will be rewarded with repairs that 

last. Attentive care will result in the historic porch 

retaining its charm both in appearance and in function. 

Acknowledgements 

Bibliography 

Davis, John Michael. "Exterior-Trim Details That Last," Fine 

Homebuilding, August/September 2001. 

Fisher, Charles E. and Hugh C. Miller, eds., Caring for Your 

Historic House, New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1998. 

Kitchen, Judith L. Caring for Your Old House: A Guide for Owners 

and Residents, Somerset, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1991. 

Leeke, John C. Practical Restoration Reports Compendium, 

Portland, ME: Historic HomeWorks, 2005. 

Nash, George. "Renovating Old Porches: Common Problems 

Can Be Solved With Simple Repairs," Fine Homebuilding, July 

1982. 

Preservation Briefs, Washington, DC: National Park Service, 

Technical Preservation Services: 1978-present. 

Preservation Tech Notes, Washington, DC: National Park Service, 

Technical Preservation Services: 1984-present. 

Reed, Douglas C. "Detailing Early Porches," Old House Journal, 

MayiJune 2001 and July-August 2001. 

Visser, Thomas D. Porches, Piazzas & Verandas, forthcoming. 

Weeks, Kay D., and Anne E. Grimmer. The Secretary of the 

Interior's Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties 

with Guidelines for Preserving, Rehabilitating, Restoring & 

Reconstructing Historic Buildings, Washington, DC: National 

Park Service, 1995. 

John Leeke is a Preservation Consultant in Portland, Maine; Aleca Sullivan is an Architectural Historian in Evanston, Illinois. Cover 

illustration: Indiana Historical Society, Jay Small Postcard Collection, Standard Cottage, 1886, Bethany Park, Indiana, Collection No. 

P0391, digital image C 2003. 

Numerous individual generously provided their time and shared their knowledge in making this Preservation Brief possible. Thomas 

D. Visser, Historic Preservation Program, University of Vermont, deserves special recognition for his insightful contributions. Also 

gratefully acknowledge for their assistance in reviewing this publication are Neal A. Vogel, Restoric LLC and Judith L. Kitchen, Ohio 

State Historic Preservation Office. Thanks go to Marilyn Kaplan, Preservation Architecture, for her contributions to the code section 

of this publication. Special thanks also go to the following staff of the National Park Service's Technical Preservation Services office for 

their review and assistance: Sharon Park, FAIA, Michael Auer, Anne Grimmer, and particularly to former staff Kay Weeks. Thanks also 

go to Chad Randl, Kaaren Staveteig and Liz Creveling of the National Park Service's Technical Preservation Service for their assistance 

and to Peter de Paola, Mark Landry of Landmark Services, and Paul Marlowe of Marlowe Restorations. 

This publication was under the technical and editorial direction of Charles E. Fisher of the National Park Service's Technical 

Preservation Services whose considerable contributions, including that of the section on new permanent enclosures, helped made this 

publication possible. 

This publication has been prepared pursuant to the National Historic Preservation Act, as amended, which directs the Secretary of 

the Interior to develop and make available information concerning historic properties. Comments about this publication should 

be addressed to: Charles Fisher, Technical Preservation Publications Program Manager, Technical Preservation Services-2255, 

National Park Service, 1849 C Street, NW, Washington, DC 20240. This publication is not copyrighted and can be reproduced without 

penalty. Normal procedures for credit to the authors and the National Park Service should be provided. The photographs used in 

this publication may not be used to illustrate other publications without permission of the owners. For more information about the 

programs of the National Park Service's Technical Preservation Services see our website at www.cr.nps.govlhps/tps 

October 2006