4 h

CHeíSEVARíerlí^

and

Descriptions

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, AGR. HANDBOOK NO. 54
Preface

This handbook is a complete revision of and supersedes Department

Bulletin 608, Varieties of Cheese: Descriptions and Analyses. It was

prepared to answer the questions of the many people who ask the Bureau

of Dairy Industry for general information on the characteristics of different cheeses and the methods of production. It is not intended as a guide

for making cheese, or as documentary evidence to use in a court of law;

rather, it is an effort to describe each cheese so that consumers may be

better able to recognize the various kinds by name.

Descriptions of the cheeses are based on information obtained from

many sources, including a study of the literature (foreign literature as

well as the literature of this country), information obtained from cheese

manufacturers and research workers, and first-hand observations. The

author wishes to express his appreciation to the many people who helped

him in the laborious task of assembling the information on the various

cheeses and in the preparation and review of the manuscript.

Although every effort was made to obtain complete and accurate descriptions, in many cases only fragmentary information was obtained,

and some of the descriptions may contain inaccuracies. The author will

appreciate advice from authorities on cheesemaking who have additional

authentic information on any cheese, for use in any future revision of the

handbook.
Cheese Varieties and Descriptions

By GE:ORGE P. SANDERS, Division of Dairy Products Research, Bureau of Dairy

Industry, Agricultural Research Administration

CONTENTS

Page

Introduction 1

Description of cheeses 4

Selected references 141

Index 145

Washington, D. G. Issued December 1953

260172*'—53-
Introduction

Cheese is a highly nutritious and palatable food. It is of value in

the diet because it contains in concentrated form almost all the protein and

usually most of the fat, as well as essential minerals, vitamins, and other

nutrients, of milk.

Cheese is made wherever animals are milked and produce more milk

than the people use in fluid form. Most cheese is made from cow's milk,

simply because cows are milked more generally throughout the world than

other animals. Smaller quantities are made from the milk of goats and

ewes. Cheese is also made in some countries from the milk of other animals,

such as camels, asses, mares, buffaloes, and reindeer.

People all over the world like and eat cheese. People in the United

States are no exception. Although we do not eat nearly so much cheese

per capita in the United States as do people in some countries, we eat nearly

twice as much now as 20 years ago, or about 10 pounds (all kinds) per capita

per year. This increased consumption is the result, at least in part, of

improvements made in recent years in the quality and uniformity of many

kinds of cheese.

No one knows who made the first cheese, but according to an ancient

legend it was made accidentally by an Arabian merchant. The merchant

put his supply of milk into a pouch made of a sheep's stomach when he

set out on a long day's journey across the desert. The rennet in the lining

of the pouch combined with the heat of the sun caused the milk to separate

into curd and whey. He found at nightfall that the whey satisfied his

thirst and the cheese (curd) satisfied his hunger and had a delightful

flavor. Thus, according to the legend, the making of one of our most

useful foods was begun.

According to ancient records, cheese was used as a food more than

4,000 years ago. It was made and eaten in Biblical times. Travelers

from Asia are believed to have brought the art of cheesemaking to Europe.

Cheese was made in many parts of the Roman Empire when it was at its

height. Then cheesemaking was introduced to England by the Romans.

During the Middle Ages—from the decline of the Roman Empire until the

discovery of America—as well as later, cheese was made and improved by

the monks in the monasteries of Europe. Gorgonzola was made in the

Po Valley in Italy in 879 A. D. and Italy became the cheesemaking center

of Europe in the 10th century. Roquefort was mentioned in the ancient

records of the monastery at Conques, France, in 1070. The Pilgrims

included cheese in the ship's supplies when they made their famous voyage

to Araerica in the Mayflower in 1620.

Until the middle of the 19th century, however, cheesemaking was a local

farm industry. Housewives made cheese from the surplus milk produced

1
2 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

on the farm. In 1851 the first cheese factory in the United States was

built by Jesse Williams near Rome, Oneida County, N. Y. Herkimer

County, which adjoins Oneida County, was the center of the cheese industry in the United States for the next 50 years. For many years during

this period the largest cheese market in the world was at Little Falls, N. Y.;

there cheese from about 200 factories was sold, in addition to farmmade

cheese. As the population increased in the East, and there was a corresponding increase in the demand for market milk, the industry gradually

moved westward, centering in the rich farm lands of Wisconsin. Cheesemaking in the United States and in the other leading cheese-producing

countries of the world is now largely a factory industry, only small amounts

being made on farms for home use.

More than a billion pounds of cheese is now made in the United States

each year. About one-tenth of the annual milk production is used in

making this cheese.

Most cheese is "natural" cheese, that is, it is made directly from milk

(or whey, in a few instances) as opposed to "process" cheese, which is

made from a blend or combination of one or more kinds of natural cheese.

Natural cheese is made by coagulating or curdling milk, stirring and heating

the curd, draining off the whey, and collecting or pressing the curd. Desirable flavor and texture are obtained in many cheeses by curing the cheese,

that is, holding it for a specified time at a specific temperature and

humidity.

This bulletin contains descriptions of more than 400 cheeses, arranged

in alphabetical order (pp. 4-143). Many cheeses are named for the town

or community in which they are made, or for a landmark of the community. Hence, many cheeses with different local names are practically

the same in their characteristics. On the other hand, several different

kinds are known by the same local name. More than 800 names are

indexed (pp. 145-151).

A typical analysis, based on data in the literature, is given for most

cheeses. In some instances, the analysis includes figures of composition

prescribed by the Federal Government (see Selected Reference 30, p. 141).

It was not possible to obtain analytical data for all the cheeses.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to classify the different cheese« satisfactorily

in groups. Attempts to do so by other writers have not been entirely successful. There probably are only about 18 distinct types or kinds of

natural cheese. No two of these are made by the same method; that is, the

details of setting the milk, cutting, stirring, heating, draining, pressing, and '

salting the curd, and curing the cheese are varied to produce characteristics

and qualities peculiar to each kind of cheese. The following cheeses are

typical of the 18 kinds: Brick, Camembert, Cheddar, Cottage, Cream, Edam,

Gouda, Hand, Limburger, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, Provolone, Romano,

Roquefort, Sapsago, Swiss, Trappist, and whey cheeses (Mysost and

Ricotta).

Such a grouping, though informative, is imperfect and incomplete.

Cheeses can be also classified as very hard (grating), hard, semisoft, or soft;

and as ripened by bacteria, by mold, by surface micro-organisms, or by a
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 3

combination of these, or as unripened. Following are examples of cheeses

in these classifications :

1. Very hard (grating) :

(a) Ripened by bacteria: Asiago old, Parmesan, Romano, Sapsago, Spalen.

2. Hard:

(a) Ripened by bacteria, without eyes: Cheddar, Granular or

Stirred-curd, and Caciocavallo.

{b) Ripened by bacteria, with eyes: Swiss, Emmentaler, and

Gruyère.

3. Semisoft:

(a) Ripened principally by bacteria : Brick and Münster.

(b) Ripened by bacteria and surface micro-organisms: Limburger. Port du Salut, and Trappist.

(c) Ripened principally by blue mold in the interior: Roquefort,

Gorgonzola, Blue, Stilton, and Wensleydale.

4. Soft:

(a) Ripened: Bel Paese, Brie, Camembert, Cooked, Hand, and

Neufchâtel (as made in France).

(b) Unripened: Cottage, Pot, Bakers', Cream, Neufchâtel (as

made in the United States), Mysost, Primost, and fresh

Ricotta.

Accidental modifications or changes in one or more steps of the cheesemaking process throughout the centuries were largely responsible for the

development of the different kinds of cheese. These changes were little

understood and difficult to duplicate because scientific knowledge of bacteriology and chemistry was lacking. As a result, cheesemaking was considered an art, and the making process was a closely guarded secret passed

down from father to son.

With increased scientific knowledge, especially since 1900, has come an

understanding of the bacteriology and chemistry involved in the making

of many cheeses. Thus it has become possible to control more precisely

each step in the making process and to manufacture a uniform product.

Now, cheesemaking is becoming a science rather than an art.
DESCRIPTIONS OF CHEESES

Abertam

Abertam is a hard cheese made from ewe's milk in the region of Carlsbad,

Bohemia.

Alemtejo

Alemtejo is a rather soft cheese made in the Province of Alemtejo, Portugal. It is cylindrical in shape and is made in 3 sizes, weighing about 2

ounces, 1 pound, and 4 pounds, respectively. It is made mostly from ewe's

milk, but goat's milk is often added, especially for the smaller sizes. Warm

milk is curdled, usually with an extract prepared from the flowers of a kind

of thistle. The cheese is ripened for several weeks.

Analysis: Moisture, 30 to 50 percent; fat, 25 to 38 percent; protein, 11

to 25 percent; and salt, 1 to 3 percent.

Allgäuer Rundkäse

AUgäuer Rundkäse or Allgäuer Emmentaler is a type of Swiss cheese

named for the district of AUgäu in the Alps in southwestern Bavaria. It

is from 5 to 554 inches thick and weighs usually between 150 and 175

pounds. (See Swiss.)

Alpin

Alpin cheesCj a variant of Mont d'Or cheese, is made in the Alpine region

of France. It is known also as Clérimbert. The milk is coagulated with

rennet at a temperature of 80° F. in about 2 hours. The curd is dipped

into molds 3 or 4 inches in diameter and T}/^ inches deep, and the whey

is drained off. The cheese is turned several times the first day, after which

itis salted and then ripened for 8 to 15 days.

Altenburger

Altenburger is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany, especially in

Thüringen in central Germany, where it is known as Altenburger Ziegenkäse. It is 8 inches in diameter, 1 or 2 inches thick, and weighs about 2

pounds.

Ambert

Ambert cheese, known also as Fourme d'Ambert, is a cylindrical Roquefort-type cheese made to a limited extent in central France, from cow's

milk. It is said to differ from other Roquefort-type cheeses made in south4
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 5

eastern France in that the salt is mixed with the curd instead of being rubbed

on the surface of the cheese. It is cured for at least 3 months. (See

Roquefort. )

American

American and American-type cheeses are descriptive terms used to identify the group which includes Cheddar (i. e., American Cheddar), Colby,

Granular or Stirred-curd, and Washed- or Soaked-curd cheeses. Sometimes Monterey or Jack cheese is included in this group. A description

of each kind is given under its specific name.

Ancien Impérial

Ancien Impérial is a French cheese about 2 inches square and y^ inch

thick that may be sold and consumed either fresh or after it has cured. The

fresh cheese is known also as Petit Carré and the cured cheese as Carré

Affiné. The curd is prepared in the same way as for Neufchatei, and the

curing process is not essentially different. (See Neufchâtel.)

Appenzeiler

Appenzeller cheese, which is similar to Swiss, is made from cow's milk

in the Canton of Appenzell, Switzerland, and also in Bavaria and Baden.

It is made usually from skim milk but sometimes from whole milk. (See

Swiss. )

Appetitost

Appetitost is a Danish cheese made from sour buttermilk. Some is imported, and a small quantity is made in the United States.

Armavir

Armavir, a sour-milk cheese that resembles Hand cheese, is made in the

western Caucasus from ewe's whole milk. Sour buttermilk or whey is

added to heated milk. The cheese is pressed in forms and is ripened in a

warm place.

Asadero

Asadero, also called Oaxaca, is a white, whole-milk Mexican cheese. It

melts easily when heated, which accounts for the name Asadero (fit for

roasting). It is named Oaxaca for the State of Oaxaca, although it is now

made for the most part in the State of Jalisco. The curd is heated, and the

hot curd is cut and braided or kneaded into loaves of various sizes, ranging

from 8 ounces to 11 pounds in weight.

Asiago

Asiago cheese originated in the commune of that name in the Province

of Vicenza, Italy. It is made also in Garnia, Venetia, Trentino, Lombardy,
b AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

and nearby areas. It was made originally from ewe's milk and was called

Pecorino di Asiago. It is now made from cow's milk and is a sweet-curd,

semicooked, Grana-type cheese with a pungent aroma. It is round and

flat and weighs usually between 16 and 22 pounds. Like other grating

cheeses, it may be used as a table cheese when not aged. Table cheese

of this kind that can be sliced is called Asiago di taglio (slicing cheese).

In Italy, Asiago is made from partly skimmed milk, which is curdled

with rennet at a temperature of 92° to 96° F. The curd is cut into

particles the size of wheat grains, and the temperature is raised to approximately 108° or as high as 118°. After about 15 minutes the greater part

of the whey is run off. The curd is dipped into circular hoops and pressed.

The cheeses are salted in brine for several days, after which they are

ripened. After curing 4 to 10 months, the cheese is at its best for eating,

resembling Battelmatt; after 12 to 20 months, it is strong and sharp in

flavor and is suitable for grating, resembling Romano and Grana. The

yield of cured cheese is about 7/2 pounds per 100 pounds of milk containing

3.5 percent of fat.

In the United States, three modifications of Asiago are made, namely,

fresh (soft), medium, and old. The method of manufacture is much the

same for all three and is similar to that used for other Italian cheeses,

such as Fontina, Parmesan, and Romano.

A bacterial starter is added to warm milk that may be standardized

to adjust the fat content. Rennet (preferably in the form of rennet

paste) or rennet extract plus a lipase enzyme preparation is diluted with

water and mixed with the milk. When the curd is sufficiently firm, it

is cut and then heated gradually and stirred continuously. The heating

and cutting are continued until the particles of curd are about the size

of wheat grains. After further stirring and heating, the curd is allowed

to settle to the bottom of the kettle and then is removed by dipping with

a cloth. It is then pressed in hoops.

When the cheeses are removed from the hoops, they are salted in a

brine bath and cured on shelves. While curing, they are washed and

turned frequently and sometimes are rubbed occasionally with vegetable

oil. Sometimes they are coated with paraffin, either clear or colored

black or brown.

Asiago fresh cheese is cured for not less than 60 days (some authorities

say at least 4 months) ; Asiago medium is cured for at least 6 months;

and Asiago old, which is used mostly as grated cheese, is cured for not

less than a year.

Analysis: Asiago fresh—^moisture, 40 to 45 percent; fat, not less than

50 percent in the solids. Asiago medium—moisture, not more than 35

percent; fat, not less than 45 percent in the solids. Asiago old—nioisture,

not more than 32 percent; fat, not less than 42 percent in the solids.

Asia

Asin cheese, which is also called Water cheese, is a sour-milk, washedcurd, whitish, soft, buttery, more or less ripened cheese that is made on

farms and in small dairies in the mountainous regions in northern Italy.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 7

It contains a few large eyes. It is made mostly in spring, while the cows

are grazing on green pasture, and is consumed in summer and autumn.

It is popular as a dessert cheese and frequently is eaten with honey and

fruits.

The cheeses are cylindrical and flat, about 8 inches in diameter and

6 inches thick, and weigh about 14 pounds.

The method of manufacture is quite different from that of any other

cheese. Fresh, warm cow's milk is put into a vat without rennet and is

curdled by souring. The curd is cut and stirred until the pieces are the

size of wheat grains. Then hot water (at a temperature of 185° to 195° F.)

is added slowly, with stirring—as much as 1 part of water to 3 parts of

curd and whey. This heats the curd to a temperature of approximately

105° to 110°. To avoid excessive washing, some hot whey may be added

with the water. For 35 to 40 minutes after the curd is cut, whey is expelled

from the granules, and they shrink and acquire firmness. A sample of

the curd is squeezed in the hand, then rubbed, and when the granules

can be rubbed apart readily the curd is permitted to settle for about

10 minutes and then is dipped with a cloth. The curd is pressed by hand

to expel more whey, is placed in a circular hoop, pressed lightly overnight,

and then—still in the hoop—is placed in a moderately warm room. After

a few days the hoop is removed. The cheese is turned, and may be salted

lightly, each day. After 10 to 15 days a whitish mold growing on the

surface becomes visible, and the rind gradually turns pale yellow.

The cheese has a mild flavor and is ready to eat when it is 1 to 2 months

old. After an additional 2 or 3 months of ripening in a special salt brine

it has more flavor, and is called Salmistra.

The yield is about 11 pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of milk.

Backsteiner

Backsteiner cheese, which is made to a limited extent in northern Germany, is similar to Stangenkäse ; that is, it is a modified Limburger-Romadurtype cheese. Backsteiner means brick, and the cheese is so-called because

of its brick-like shape. However, it is not like the Brick cheese made in the

United States but is more like Limburger that is made from partly skimmed

milk, except that Backsteiner is smaller and is cured for a shorter time.

When made in squares, it is known as Quadratkäse. (See Limburger and

Romadur. )

Analysis: Moisture, 35 to 70 percent; fat, 3 to 38 percent; and protein,

20 to 25 percent.

Bagozzo

Bagozzo or Grana Bagozzo, which is also known as Bresciano, is a Parmesan-type cheese similar to but smaller than Reggiano and Parmigiano. It

has a hard, yellow body and a rather sharp flavor. The surface often is

colored red. í
8 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Bakers'

Bakers' is a skim-milk cheese very much like Cottage cheese. However,

Bakers' cheese is softer and finer-grained than Cottage cheese and contains

more moisture and acid. In making Bakers' cheese, the curd usually is not

washed and cooked and it is drained in bags rather than in the vat. Bakers'

cheese usually is used in making such bakery products as cheese cake, pie,

and pasteries, but it can also be creamed and eaten like creamed Cottage

cheese.

The milk is pasteurized and cooled to a temperature of 86° to 90*^ F.

Starter is added, and rennet may be added. After the curd has formed it

is dipped into bags, and these are tied and hung up or piled on a rack to

drain for about 2 hours during which time they are turned occasionally.

Then the bags may be piled and weighted or pressed to remove more whey;

however, it is common practice to use a filter process to remove whey from

the cheese. Cracked ice may be put around the bags to chill the curd and

retard the development of acidity. The curd may be salted with about

1 percent of salt, or it may be left unsalted. It is packed in tinned cans for

shipment or in wooden tubs for storage. It will keep well for several

months if stored frozen at a temperature below 0°, but usually it is kept at

32° to 35°. From 15 to 18 pounds of cheese is obtained per 100 pounds

of skim milk.

Bakers' cheese may be made from spray-dried nonfat milk solids. Eleven

pounds of milk powder is reconstituted by adding it slowly to 89 pounds of

water at 60° F., while agitating the mixture with a high-speed stirrer. The

reconstituted milk is warmed to 86° to 90°, and 8 pounds of lactic starter

and 0.2 milliliters of rennet (which has been diluted in water) are added.

After the milk has curdled and developed sufficient acidity (in from 4 to 6

hours), the curd is dipped into bags and drained in the same way as when

it is made from liquid skim milk. The yield from 11 pounds of nonfat

dried milk solids is 19 to 22 pounds of cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, 68 to 75 percent (not more than 80) ; fat, 0.5 percent

or less; and salt, 1 percent.

Banbury

Banbury, a soft, rich cheese, was very popular in England in the early

part of the 19th century. It is cylindrical in shape and is about an inch

thick.

Barberey

Barberey, a soft cheese resembling Camembert, derives its name from the

village of Barberey, near Troyes, France. It is also commonly known as

Fromage de Troyes. Fresh warm milk is coagulated with rennet, usually

in about 4 hours. The uncut curd is put into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom to drain. About 3 hours later the cheese is put into an

earthenware mold, and after 24 hours the mold is removed. The cheese is

salted, dried in a well-ventilated room, and may be ripened for about 3

weeks, usually in an underground curing room. However, in summer the
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 9

cheese often is sold without ripening. It is about 5/2 inches in diameter

and 11/4 inches thick.

Battelmatt

Battelmatt is a small Swiss-type cheese made from cow's milk^ in the

Canton of Tessin, Switzerland, when the quantity of milk is insufficient for

making the large "wheels." It is cylindrical and flat, 18 to 24 inches in

diameter, 3^ to 4 inches thick, and 40 to 80 pounds in weight.^ It has a

softer body than Swiss and contains a greater percentage of moisture; the

eyes are smaller; and it ripens more rapidly, being marketed within 3 to 4

months. Its flavor is more like Tilsiter than Swiss.

Analysis: Moisture, 44 to 50 percent; fat, 20 to 30 percent; and protein,

21 to 25 percent.

Belgian Cooked

Belgian Cooked cheese is made by a method similar to that used for

Cooked cheese (Kochkäse). Skim milk is allowed to curdle, and the curd

is heated to between 135° and 140° F. and then drained in a cloth. When

drained it is kneaded thoroughly by hand and then allowed to ripen, usually

for 10 to 14 days in winter and 6 to 8 days in summer. When the flavor

has developed sufficiently, cream and salt are added and the mixture is

heated slowly to approximately 180°, stirred until it is blended completely,

and then put into molds to ripen for several days. The cheese usually

weighs about 3 ^ pounds. ( See Cooked cheese. )

Analysis: Moisture, approximately 70 to 75 percent; not more than

80 percent.

Bellelay

Bellelay, also called Tête de Moine and Monk's Head, is a soft, blueveined, whole-milk cheese that resembles Gorgonzola. It was made originally in the 15th century by monks in the Canton of Bern, Switzerland,

and now is made exclusively in that locality. (See Gorgonzola.)

Sweet milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in

20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut comparatively fine and is stirred while

being heated slowly to a temperature of 110°. It is cooked until it is much

firmer than for Limburger but not so firm as for Swiss.

The curd then is dipped into wooden hoops lined with cloth. Th¿

cheeses are pressed a few minutes at a time in rotation, one press being used

for a number of cheeses. After the cheese is pressed it is wrapped in bark

and left for 2 weeks or until firm enough to require no support. It is cured

in a moist cellar at a comparatively low temperature so there will be no

eye development. It ripens in about 12 months, but it will keep for 3 or 4

years if it is kept cold. When ready for market the cheese is 7 inches in

diameter and weighs from 9 to 15 pounds. It has a soft, buttery consistency and can be spread on bread.

Analysis: Moisture, 37 to 40 percent; fat, approximately 30 percent;

protein, 25 to 28 percent; and salt, approximately 3 percent.
10 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Bel Paese

Bel Paese, which means "beautiful country/' is the trade name of one

of the best known and most popular of a group of uncooked, soft, sweet,

mild, fast-ripened, Italian table cheeses. Bel Paese was first made about

1920 in Melzo, upper Lombardy, Italy, although cheese of this general type

has been made in Italy for approximately 60 years. A similar cheese called

Königskäse is made in Robbio, near Pavia, Italy. Others in the group are

Bella Alpina, Bella Milano, Bel Piano Lombardo, Bel Piemonte Fior d'Alpe,

Savoia, and Vittoria, Similar cheese is marketed in other European countries under such names as Schönland and Fleur des Alpes, and the group

is also referred to as Butter cheese, especially in Germany; a similar so-called

Butter cheese is made in Canada.

Production of a soft cheese of the Bel Paese type was introduced in the

United States by the Bureau of Dairy Industry in 1938 and the cheese which

is now being made commercially is said to be of as high quality in every

respect as that made in Italy. Innovations made here in the method include pasteurization of the milk and the use of a uniformly active lactic

starter, which improve the quality and uniformity of the cheese and practically eliminate defects. Because of the Italian trade-mark, cheese of this

type made in the United States is sold under various other names.

A small percentage of an active lactic starter (usually 0.25 percent or

slightly more) is added to cpw's whole milk (which should be strictly fresh

and pasteurized), at a temperature of 104° to 110° F. Enough rennet is

added so that the curd will be firm enough for cutting in 15 to 20 minutes—

usually from 10 to 20 milliliters of rennet (diluted with water) per 100

pounds of milk is sufficient.

The curd is cut into %-inch cubes and is stirred carefully, at first by hand

and then with a rake, to prevent matting and to insure rapid expulsion of

the whey. During this period the setting temperature is maintained.

When the curd particles have firmed sufficiently, the whey is drawn off and

the curd is dipped into forms placed on reed mats on a draining table.

The forms are preferably square or round perforated metal forms but square

wooden forms are also used. A follower, or cover, is placed on the curd

in each form. In Italy the curd may be transferred to the forms within

30 minutes after the rennet is added. The cheeses are drained in the forms

for 5 to 7 hours and are turned frequently during this period. The room

temperature should be about 80°. A box cover may be placed over the

forms to aid in maintaining the temperature of the cheese.

The cheeses are salted by placing them in a 16- to 18-percent salt solution

at 55° F. for 14 to 18 hours. Then they are dried and placed on shelves

in the curing room in which the temperature is 38° to 42° and the relative

humidity is 80 to 90 percent. Some fine salt may be sprinkled on the

surface of the cheeses.

Soon after curing is begun a nearly colorless or slightly gray or brownish

slime appears on the surface, and this is desirable for characteristic ripening.

The cheeses are washed with dilute salt brine and are turned 2 or 3 times

each week, to keep the slime coating thin and the rind firm and clean.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 11

After 3 or 4 days the outer surface of the cheeses may be colored with dilute

cheese color. After 3 weeks in the curing room the cheeses are cleaned

thoroughly, dried, and wrapped in tinfoil. They may be paraffined before

wrapping. The wrapped cheeses are placed in individual cartons and are

cured for 2 to 3 weeks or even 6 weeks longer, at the same temperature,

after which they are ready for market.

In some sections in Italy, the cheeses weigh about 41/2 pounds and are

5^ to 6 inches in diameter. The yield is 11 to 15 pounds of cheese per

100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 44 to 47 percent; fat, 28 to 29 percent; protein, 21.9

percent; salt, 2.3 to 2.5 percent.

Bergkäse

Bergkäse is the name of a group of Alpine cheeses, chiefly of the Swiss

type. The group includes Battelmatt and Piora, which are made in the

Canton of Tessin, Switzerland; Gruyère, made in Switzerland and France;

Fontina, made in the Aosta Valley in Italy; Montasio, made in Carinthia

and nearby areas; Walliser, made in the Canton of Wallis, Switzerland;

and several others. A type of soft cheese known as Vacherin, which is

made in the Canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, is also classed in the Bergkäse

group. A description of each cheese is given under its specific name.

Bergquara

Bergquara is a Swedish cheese resembling Gouda. It was made in

Sweden as early as the 18th century.

Bernarde

Bernarde or Formagelle Bernarde, an Italian cheese, is made from cow's

whole niilk to which about 10 percent of goat's milk is added for flavor.

The milk is ripened for 3 or 4 hours. It is colored lightly with saffron.

Sufficient rennet is added to coagulate the milk in about 45 minutes at a

temperature of 93° to 95° F., after which the curd is turned and then

left to settle for 5 minutes. It is then broken with a harp until the pieces

are the size of hazelnuts. The temperature is increased slightly and the

curd is allowed to settle for about 10 minutes. It is placed in hoops and

cured in a highly humid room at a temperature of 50° to 59°. After

3 days in the curing room salting is begun. In the following 18 days

about 2.5 to 3 percent of salt is added by rubbing dry salt on the surface

of the cheese 3 or 4 times. The cheese is ready to eat after curing for

2 months.

Bgug-Panir

Bgug-Panir cheese, sometimes called Daralag, is made in Armenia from

partly or entirely skimmed ewe's milk. Rennet is used to coagulate the

milk, and the curd is put into a rack to drain after which it is broken up.

Salt and herbs are added, and the cheese is pressed. After pressing, it is

put into a salt bath for 2 days or more, after which it is cured.
12 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Bitto

Bitto is a firm, semicooked cheese of the Swiss group, made originally

in Friuli and now made also in Lombardy, in northern Italy. It is similar

to Fontina and Montasio. It is made from cow's milk, from ewe's milk,

or from a mixture of goat's milk and cow's milk, and from whole, slightly

skimmed, or skim milk. It is heated to a temperature of 93° to 98° F.,

and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 30 to 35 minutes.

The curd is then subdivided and heated in about 30 minutes to a temperature between 113° and 122°. The curd is dipped and pressed; the

cheese is dry-salted over a period of 25 to 40 days and is cured—sometimes

for as long as 2 years. The cheese weighs between 35 and 75 pounds.

It has small eyes. When made from whole milk and not fully cured, it is

used as table cheese. When made from skim milk and fully cured, it is

grated and used as a condiment.

Bleu

Bleu (or Fromage Bleu) is the French name for a group of Roqueforttype (blue-veined) cheeses made in the Roquefort area in southeastern

France from milk other than ewe's milk and also to Roquefort-type cheeses

made elsewhere in France (that is, outside the Roquefort area), regardless

of the kind of milk used. Because of the mottled, marbled, or veined

appearance of the curd they are also called Fromage Persillé. Other

cheeses in this group are Bleu d'Auvergne, Laguiole, Gex, Gex Bressans

(goat's-milk Gex), Mont Genis, Sassenage, Septmoncel, and St. Flour.

Some of these are described under their specific names. Roquefort-type

cheese made in the United States is called Blue cheese. (See Roquefort

and Blue.)

Blue

Blue, Blue-mold, or Blue-veined cheese is the name for cheese of the

Roquefort type that is made in the United States and Ganada. It is made

from cow's or goat's milk, rather than ewe's milk. The French word for

this type of cheese is Bleu. ( See Roquefort and Bleu.) Considerable quantities of Blue cheese are made in the United States, and cheese of this type

is imported from Argentina, Ganada, Denmark, France, Finland, and

Sweden. Danish cheese of the Roquefort type is called Danablu. Blue

cheese is about 7^ inches in diameter and weighs from 4^ to 5 pounds;

it is round and flat like Gorgonzola, but smaller.

It was not until about 1918 that attempts to make Roquefort-type cheese

in the United States met with success, primarily because prior to that time

information was not available on methods of manufacture and curing,

including isolation, identification, and use of the blue-green Pénicillium

roqueforti mold and means for maintaining the correct temperature and

humidity in the curing room to prevent excessive drying. Gaves which simulate the temperature and humidity of the Roquefort caves of France are

now used successfully by many factories. The Bureau of Dairy Industry

arid the Galifomia Agricultural Experiment Station have developed a
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 13

method for making Blue cheese from goat's milk, and the Bureau of Dairy

Industry and the Iowa, Minnesota, and Washington stations have published

information on making it from cow's milk. Following is a brief description

of the making process :

Lactic starter is added to fresh clean milk, which may be pasteurized and

may be homogenized, and it is set with rennet at a temperature of 84° F.

From 1 to V/z hours later the coagulated curd is cut, then the whey is

drained off and the curd is placed in perforated metal hoops that are about

7^ inches in diameter and 6 inches deep. Blue-mold powder is mixed

with the curd, either while it is still in the vat or while it is being put into the

hoops, and some salt may be mixed with it. The hoops are turned frequently and the curd is held in the hoops at least 24 hours. Salting may be

started either when the cheeses are removed from the hoops or several days

later. The cheeses are dry-salted over a period of 7 to 10 days in a room

which is maintained at a temperature of 46° to 48° and a relative humidity

of about 95 percent. About a week after salting, each cheese is pierced

with 40 or more }/8-inch holes to permit air to reach the interior of the

cheese; this is essential for mold growth. Then the cheeses are placed on

their edges on racks in the curing room. They are cured for 3 months at a

temperature of 48° and a relative humidity of 95 percent and are scraped

or cleaned at regular intervals—usually every 3 or 4 weeks—to reduce slime

formation and growth of foreign molds on the surface. Then they are

wrapped in tinfoil and stored 2 or 3 months at a temperature of about 40°

in a moist room. The total curing period must be at least 60 days. The

yield of cured cheese is 10 to 11 pounds per 100 pounds of cow's whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 46 percent (usually 40 to 42 percent) ;

fat, 29.5 to 30.5 percent (not less than 50 percent in the solids) ; protein,

20 to 21 percent; and salt, 4.5 to 5 percent.

Bondon

Bondon is a small, unripened, whole-milk, French cheese of the fresh

Neufchâtel type. A lactic culture and rennet are added to fresh milk at a

temperature of 60° to 65'' F. From 18 to 24 hours later, when the curd is

firm, it is transferred to a cloth which has been stretched over a tub. The

curd is stirred frequently, and when it has drained sufficiently it is transferred to a clean cloth and pressed between boards with a weight on top.

Salt is mixed in, and the curd is placed in molds that are lined with wax

paper. The molds are 2% inches deep and 1% inches in diameter.

Analysis: Moisture, 54.3 percent; fat, 23 percent (50.3 percent in the

soHds) ; protein, 16.1 percent; and salt, 2.5 percent.

Bondost

Bondost is a Swedish, farm-type, cow's-milk cheese that has been made

also in a few factories in the United States, chiefly in Wisconsin, for more

than 30 years. It is cylindrical in shape, about 5 inches in diameter and

3 to 4 inches thick, and weighs 2/2 to 3 pounds.
14 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Either raw or pasteurized milk may be used. Lactic starter and color

may be added, and the milk is warmed to a temperature of 84° to 88° F.

Enough rennet is added so that the curd will be ready to cut in about 20 to

30 minutes. The curd is cut into Y^-inch or %-inch cubes and is heated,

with stirring, until it is firm enough to press. To aid in firming the curd,

part of the whey may be removed and salt, which has been dissolved in

warm water, may be sprinkled over the surface of the curd at the rate of

Ya to 1 pound of salt per 100 pounds of curd; the curd must be well stirred

to prevent matting. When the curd is firm enough to press, the forms

should be filled as quickly as possible. Sometimes cumin or caraway seed

is mixed with the curd just before it is putinto the forms.

The cheese is pressed for 15 to 18 hours; then it is immersed in salt brine

at a temperature of 50° to 60° F. for 24 to 48 hours, the time depending

on the condition of the curd when it was put into the forms and the amount

of salt, if any, that was added earlier. After the cheese is taken out of the

brine, it is cured on shelves for 2 or 3 days in a reasonably well ventilated

room, at a temperature of 50° to 60°. After the surface of the cheese is

well dried and a light rind has formed, it may be paraffined, and it is packed

forstorage at a temperature of 50° to 60°. It is ready to eat in 6 to 8 weeks.

If cheese with more pronounced flavor and better keeping quality is

desired, it is left in the curing room for 2 or 3 weeks and is washed or

rubbed with a salt brine solution every other day, after which it may be

paraflSned, and it is then packed for storage at a temperature of 40° to

50° F.

Analysis: Moisture, 42.8 percent; fat, 29.7 percent; fat in the solids,

51.9 percent; and salt, 1.3 percent.

Borelli

Borelli is a small cheese made in Italy from bufí'alo's milk.

Boudanne

Boudanne is a French cheese made from cow's milk. Either whole or

skim milk is heated to about 85° F. and sufficient rennet is added to

coagulate the milk in an hour. The curd is then cut to the size of peas,

stirred, and heated to 100° or above. After settling for 10 or 15 minutes,

the curd is pressed by hand and put into molds 8 inches in diameter and

3 inches deep. The cheese is drained, turned frequently, salted, and

ripened for 2 or 3 months.

Bourgain

Bourgain is a type of fresh Neufchatel cheese made in France. However, the fat content is low, the cheese is not salted, it contains a relatively

high percentage of moisture, and it is very soft. It is perishable and is

consumed locally.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 15

Box (Firm)

Box (firm), a German cheese, is known in different localities as Hohenburg, Mondsee, and Weihenstephan. It has a mild but piquant flavor and

is similar to the Brick cheese made in the United States. Cow's whole

milk is heated in a kettle to a temperature of 90° or 93° F., colored with

saffron, and set with sufficient rennet to curdle it in 20 or 25 minutes.

The curd is cut to the size of peas, then heated slowly, with stirring, to 105°.

Heating is then discontinued and 5 minutes later the whey is removed.

The curd is enclosed in a cloth, then placed in hoops, and light pressure is

applied. The hoops of curd are turned after 15 minutes, and turning is

repeated frequently for several hours. ' When the cheeses are removed

from the hoops they are placed in a well-ventilated room at 60° for 3 to

5 days and then are taken to the curing room where they are cured for

2 to 3 months. They are salted by rubbing salt on the surface. Each

cheese weighs between 1 and 4 pounds.

Box (Soft)

Box (soft) is a cheese of minor importance made from partly skimmed

cow's milk in the small village of Hohenheim, in Württemberg, Germany.

It is often called Hohenheimer cheese and is also known locally as

Schachtelkäse.

Skim milk is mixed with an equal volume of whole milk. The milk

is warmed in a copper kettle to a temperature of 110° F., colored with

saffron, and rennet is added. After a coagulation period of 1 to 1 /a hours,

the curd is cut into rather large pieces. A few minutes after cutting,

tht whey is dipped off, a small handful of caraway seed is added for

every 200 pounds of milk used, and the curd is broken into smaller pieces.

It is then dipped into perforated tin hoops, 6j4 inches in diameter and

6^2 inches deep, where it remains for 10 or 12 hours during which time

it is turned frequently. Then it is transferred to wooden hoops only half

as deep, where it remains an additional 12 hours. The cheeses are then

removed from the hoops, salted on the surface, and placed in the ripening

cellar, where they are cured for about 3 months.

Fromage de Boîte, which is a soft cheese of this type and which is similar

to Pont l'Évêque, is made in the fall in the mountains of Doubs, France.

Bra

Bra cheese is named for the village of Bra in Piedmont, Italy, where

it was first made by nomads. It is a hard, nearly white cheese with a

compact texture and sharp and salty flavor. Partly skimmed milk is

heated to a temperature of about 90° F., and sufficient rennet is added

to the milk to coagulate it in 30 to 40 minutes. The curd is cut as small

as rice grains, and "after about 30 minutes the whey is drained off. The

curd is placed in forms about 12 inches in diameter and 3 inches deep and

pressed for 12 to 24 hours. It is removed from the forms several times

260172*»--53 2
16 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

in the early stages of pressings broken into coarse pieces^ and repacked

in the forms. The cheese is salted by immersion in brine and also by

sprinkling salt on the surface, after which it is cured. The yield is from

654 to 7J4 pounds per 100 pounds of partly skimmed milk. Each cheese

weighs about 12 pounds.

Brand

Brand is a German Hand cheese made from sour-milk curd that is

heated to a somewhat higher temperature than usual. The curd is salted

and allowed to ferment for a day. It is then mixed with butter, pressed,

dried, and finally placed in kegs to ripen. While ripening, it is moistened

occasionally with beer. Each cheese weighs about 5 ounces.

Brick

Brick cheese, one of the few cheeses of American origin, is made in considerable quantities in numerous factories, particularly in Wisconsin. It is

a sweet-curd, semisoft, cow's-milk cheese, with a mild but rather pungent

and sweet flavor, midway between Cheddar and Limburger but not so sharp

as Cheddar and not so strong as Limburger. The body is softer than Cheddar but firmer than Limburger, is elastic, and slices well without crumbling.

Brick has an open texture with numerous round and irregular shaped eyes

(holes). Altlwugh the exact derivation of the name is unknown, it may

refer to its brick-like shape or to the bricks used in pressing.

High-quality whole milk, preferably pasteurized, is warmed to a temperature of 88° to 92° F. Lactic starter is added, and enough rennet so the

curd will be firm enough to cut in about 30 minutes. After the curd is cut

into cubes and stirred gently for 15 to 25 minutes, it is warmed in about 45

minutes to a temperature of 106° to 110°, or even as low as 96° and as high

as 115° in some cases (depending on the size of the cubes and the rate of acid

development). The final cooking temperature is maintained until the

curd is transferred to the forms. Part of the whey is removed, and the

curd either is stirred in the remainder of the whey or warm water (at the

cooking temperature) is added and stirring is continued. When the curd

reaches the desired degree of firmness, the curd-whey mixture is dipped

into the forms.

The forms, which are made of wood or perforated metal and have no top

or bottom, are rectangular (10 inches long, 5 inches wide, and 55/2 inches

deep). They are placed on a mat or metal screen on a drain table.

A flat-sided pail or scoop is used to transfer the curd to the forms. As

soon as the curd settles, a cover (10 by 5 inches) is placed on each form,

if necessary, to reduce loss of heat. The forms are turned about five times

at 30-minute intervals, and about the second or third time a 5-pound weight

(usually a brick) is placed on each. Draining continues under this pressure

overnight; the forms are kept covered if the room is cold.

The next morning the forms are removed, and either dry or brine salting

is begun. For dry salting, the cheeses are rubbed with salt and laid on one

of their broad sides on a salting table. Salting is repeated daily for 3 days.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 17

Then the cheeses are scraped smooth and placed on shelves in the curing

room. For brine salting, the cheeses are floated in a saturated salt solution

at a temperature of 55° to 60° F. for a day, and salt is sprinkled on the

upper surface. After 24 hours, they are turned and left in the brine for

another day, or 48 hours in all.

The cheese is cured at a temperature of 60° F. and a relative humidity

of 90 percent. The bricks are placed close together for 10 to 12 days to

prevent drying and cracking of the rind. Micro-organisms grow on the

surface, producing a reddish-brown color, and this is desirable in normal

curing. The cheeses are washed frequently with salty water. After about

12 days, they are separated so the air can circulate around them and dry

them, or they are removed to a cooler, drier room to dry; then they are

dipped in parafin or cheese wax, wrapped in parchment and an overwrapper

of heavy paper, and packed in boxes. The cheese usually is stored for

further curing for 2 to 3 months at 40° to 50° F. If the cheese is made

from raw milk, it is cured for at least 60 days at not less than 35° F. unless

it is to be used for manufacturing and is designated "Brick cheese for

manufacturing."

Brick cheese that measures about 10 inches long, 5 inches wide, and

3 inches thick, will weigh aproximately 5 pounds. The yield is about 9.5

pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of milk containing 3.5 percent of fat.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent (usually 39 to 42 percent) ;

fat, 31 percent (not less than 50 percent of the solids) ; protein, 20 to 23

percent; and salt, 1.8 to 2 percent, or slightly more.

Brickbat

Brickbat cheese, which was made as long ago as the eighteenth century

in Wiltshire, England, is made from fresh milk to which a small portion of

cream is added. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about

90° F. After a coagulation period of 2 hours, the curd is cut into coarse

pieces, dipped into wooden forms, and light pressure is applied. The

cheese is said to be good to eat for as long as a year after being made.

Brie

Brie, which was first made several centuries ago in the Department of

Seine-et-Marne, France, is a soft, surface-ripened cheese made usually

from cow's whole milk but also at times from skim milk or partly skimmed

milk. The quality varies with the kind of milk used. Melun, Coulommiers, and Meaux are noted for the production of Brie, which also is

known locally as Fromage de Melun and Coulommiers. Brie-type cheese

is made also in other parts of France and in other countries, including the

United States.

Brie is made in three sizes: Large (about 16 inches in diameter and 1J4

to 1% inches thick, weighing about 6 pounds) ; medium (about 12 inches

in diameter and slightly thinner than the large size, weighing about

3/2 pounds) ; and small (5/2 to not more than 8 inches in diameter and
18 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

V/i inches thick, weighing about a pound). According to some authorities, the small size is the same as Coulommiers or Petit Moule.

Brie is similar to Camembert. Both are ripened partly by molds and

bacteria, and probably yeasts, that grow on the surface of the cheese.

However, because of differences in the details of manufacture, the internal

ripening and characteristic flavor and aroma differ.

The cheesemaking process is complicated and exacting. Fresh milk, or

evening milk which is cooled, held overnight, and mixed with morning

milk, is used. About 10 percent of slightly ripened skim milk is sometimes added. The milk is warmed to a temperature of 85° to 90° F., and

enough rennet is added so the curd will be firm enough to dip in 2 or 3 hours.

A ladle is used to transfer large, thin, horizontal slices of curd to round

metal hoops, each of which has a rim that fits snugly in the top. The hoops

rest on straw or rush drain mats on a drain board. The temperature of

the room should be about 65°.

When the curd has settled sufficiently, the metal rims are removed. The

hoops of cheese are piled several high on a draining table, and a drain

board and clean mat are placed under each cheese. The hoops are turned

frequently, and the mats are changed at each turning. The clean mats

are placed at right angles to those used previously, which results in a

checked pattern on the surface of the cheese.

About 24 hours after the curd was placed in the hoops, the hoops are

removed and a tinned metal strap is fitted around each cheese. The

cheeses are turned and the mats are changed as before for another 24 hours.

Then the straps are removed, and fine dry salt is rubbed on the surface

and sides of the cheeses. They are turned and salted daily for 2 or 3 days.

Then the cheeses are taken to a well ventilated drying room where they

are held at a temperature of 55° to 60° F. for about 8 days. A felty layer

of white mold grows rapidly on the surface, and the curd softens rapidly

and becomes slightly yellow and translucent during this period. Then the

cheeses are moved to a curing cellar or cave in which the temperature is

about 52°, the relative humidity about 85 percent, and there is little ventilation. The primary layer of white mold is gradually superseded by a secondary growth of yellow mold that changes to red as ripening continues

and the cheese becomes less acid and the curd becomes yellower and creamier. Regulating the growth of desirable molds on the surface of the cheese

is essential for successful production. Some manufacturers inoculate the

milk with the desirable micro-organisms to insure their growth.

The cheese may be shipped before curing is completed, in which case

the retailer places the cheese in a cellar for final ripening. Brie is perishable and must be kept under refrigeration. Before sale the cheeses may be

cut into pie-shaped segments, each of which is wrapped separately. However, it ripens more normally if it is not cut.

About 14 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture,-45 to 52,5 percent; fat, 25 to 28 percent when the

cheese is made from whole milk, and 20 to 22 percent when it is made from

partly skimmed milk; protein, 21.6 percent; and salt, 1.5 to 4 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 19

Brioler

Brioler and Woriener, which are named for the localities in East Prussia

where they are made^ are similar to Limburger cheese. Cow's whole milk

is curdled with rennet at a temperature of about 91° F. The curd is cut

in about 20 minutes. It is not subjected to additional heating and is not

pressed while in the forms. The room is kept comparatively warm while

whey drains from the curd, and the cheese is cured in cellars that are comparatively dry. The curing period is from 4 to 6 weeks. Each cheese is

3 to 4 inches square, 2 to 3 inches thick, and weighs about 2^ pounds.

(See Limburger.)

Broccio

Broccio cheese, which is also called Brouse, is similar to Ricotta and

Ziger. Fresh and sour whey are mixed, and the mixture is heated to nearly

the boiling point. The coagulum that forms on the surface is removed with

a skimmer and drained on a fine mat or in a basket. This cheese will keep

for a day in summer or 2 days in winter. If salted, it can be kept for longer

periods. (See Ricotta and Ziger.)

Burgundy

Burgundy cheese, known in France as Fromage de Bourgogne, is a soft,

white, loaf-shaped cheese that weighs about 4 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 29.5 percent; fat, 38.6 percent; and protein, 28.8

percent.

Burmeister

Burmeister is the trade name of a soft, ripened Brick-type cheese made

in Wisconsin.

Buttermilk

Buttermilk cheese is made from the curd of buttermilk and is somewhat

finer grained than cottage cheese, which it closely resembles. Buttermilk

with an acidity of 0.5 or 0.6 percent is run into a steam-heated vat or

starter can, qr into a pail which can be heated in a tub of hot water. The

buttermilk is stirred, heated to a temperature of 75° to 78° F., covered, and

left for 1^ to 2 hours. The temperature is then raised to 140°, and in

about an hour the curd settles to the bottom. The whey is removed and the

curd is transferred to a cloth to drain for about 10 hours. It should be

stirred occasionally while draining. When dry, the curd is salted, put into

small packages, and wrapped in parchment paper. The cheese contains

about the same amount of moisture as, but more fat than, cottage cheese.

( See Danish Export, which is a buttermilk cheese.)

In an attempt to utilize sweet buttermilk in cheesemaking, sometimes

about 10 percent of sweet buttermilk is added to milk used in making cheese

by the Cheddar method. Cheese made in this way is said to ripen faster

than Cheddar cheese; however, the curd is soft and sticky and retains an

exççgsivç amount of moisture.
20 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo, an Italian plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese, was made

first in southern Italy but now is made also in Sicily and in summer in

northern Italy. In northern Italy it is made chiefly for export. It is especially suitable for making in warm climates, as it keeps well. The cured

cheese has a smooth, firm body, and preferably the interior of the cheese is

white.

Caciocavallo and Provolone are made by almost identical methods. However, Caciocavallo contains less fat than Provolone and usually is not smoked,

and each is molded in distinctive shapes. Typically, Caciocavallo is spindleshaped, with a pointed bottom and with a neck and head at the top. One

theory of the origin of the name is that the cheeses, which are tied in pairs

and hung over poles to cure, look as if they were hung over a saddle; hence,

cheese on horseback, or "cacio a cavallo."

Caciocavallo is made usually from cow's milk, but sometimes from a

mixture of cow's and ewe's milk. Evening milk is skimmed and mixed with

whole morning milk in a vat or wooden tub. Starter may be added ; whey

from the previous day, containing lactobacilli and thermophilic streptococci,

may be used. The milk is set at a temperature of about 96° F. with rennet,

preferably rennet paste. The curd is cut in 20 to 30 minutes, with a metal

skimmer and then with a stirrer, into pieces about the size of a pea. After

the curd settles, the whey is removed and the curd is pressed.

The compressed curd is transferred to a wooden tub in a warm room and

covered with hot whey. An energetic fermentation occurs. As soon as a

sample of the curd will stretch into a tough, elastic fiber when it is immersed

in very hot water, it is ready for draining and molding (this may be from

5 to 8 hours or as long as 20 hours after fermentation begins).

The curd is transferred to a special table to drain; then it is cut into long

thin slices which are placed in a tub and covered with very hot water. The

slices are worked with a paddle and by hand until they are very elastic;

then they are drawn into rope-like pieces of uniform size and draped on a

pole. These rope-like pieces are molded into the typical Caviocavallo shape.

While being molded they are immersed occasionally in very hot water to

keep them hot. Molding while hot expels whey from the curd and produces

cheese with a compact curd, free of openings, and with a properly sealed

surface.

The cheese are placed in a vat of cold water—on a cloth stretched under

the water or in forms—for 3 or 4 hours, to cool and harden. Then they are

salted in brine at about 50° F. for 3 or 4 days, after which they are dried,

tied in pairs, and hung over poles in a curing room at a temperature of

62° to 65° and a relative humidity of 80 to 85 percent. They are cleaned

when they become moldy, and they are oiled.

Cheese cured for 2 to 4 months is suitable for table use, and that cured

for 6 to 12 months or longer is suitable for grating. The yield is 7% to 8%

pounds of uncured cheese, or about 6% pounds of cured cheese, per 100

pounds of partly skimmed cow's milk. The cheeses usually weigh between

43/2 and 5¡^ pounds.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 21

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 40 percent (usually 28 to 38 percent) ;

fat, 19 to 30 percent (not less than 42 percent in the solids) ; protein, 32 to

38 percent; and salt, 2 to 6 percent.

Caciocavallo Sicîlîano

Gaciocavallo Siciliano, a plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese like the*

Italian Provolone and Caciocavallo, is essentially a pressed Provolone.

Although small quantities are made in the United States, it is made chiefly

in Sicily, usually from cow's whole milk, but sometimes from goat's milk

or a mixture of the two. According to some authorities, it is always made

in the shape of an oblong block. Each cheese weighs between 17^2 and

26 pounds.

The method of making Caciocavallo Siciliano is similar to the method

of making Caciocavallo and Provolone, except for the following: The

curd is not placed in cold water to firm it, but is pressed in forms. Although

according to some authorities it may be salted in brine, it usually is salted

with dry salt over a period of about 20 days. It is not smoked and may

be paraffined. It is cured for at least 3 months and is used both as a

table cheese and for grating. (See Caciocavallo and Provolone.)

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 40 percent; fat in the solids, not less

than 42 percent.

Cacio Fiore

Cacio Fiore, also called Caciotta, is a soft, yellowish, Italian cheese with

a delicate, buttery flavor. It has a soft and delicate curd similar to Bel

Paese and the Stracchino and Crescenza cheeses of Lombardy. It is made

from ewe's or goat's milk, usually in the cold winter months.

Whole milk is colored with saffron and is set at a temperature of 95° F.,

preferably with vegetable rennet extract (caglio fiore). Use of this extract,

which is prepared from salt water and wild artichoke flowers (fiore),

produces the soft, delicate curd. After a coagulation period of 25 minutes,

the curd is broken into comparatively large pieces and is dipped into

rectangular or round wooden forms that are lined with linen cloth; the

forms are placed on straw mats on an inclined table to drain. After draining, the cheese is salted with dry salt and is kept on a straw mat and turned

daily. It is ready to eat about 10 days after it is made. The average

yield is 25 to 30 pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of milk. Each cheese

weighs between 2 and 45/2 pounds.

Cacio Fiore Aquilano is a similar cheese that usually is made in winter

(January and February). It is a rectangular, fast-ripening, Stracchino

(Lombardy) type cheese made from ewe's milk, preferably with vegetable

(fiore) rennet, although good results can be obtained also with calf rennet.

Fresh milk is colored with saffron and is set with rennet at a temperature

of 95° F. After a coagulation period of 50 minutes, the curd is cut, drained,

placed in the forms, and salted in the same way as in making Crescenza.

(See Crescenza.) This cheese should be eaten within a month after it is

made.
22 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Caerphilly

Gaerphilly is a semisoft, cow's milk cheese made in Wales, and is especially

popular among Welch miners. It is circular and flat, about 9 inches in

diameter and 2/2 to 8/2 inches thick, and weighs about 8 pounds. The

cheese is white and smooth, lacks elasticity, and is granular rather than

waxy when broken.

Fresh whole milk is inoculated with starter and ripened slightly. The

milk is heated to 84° or 90° F., and rennet is added. After a curdling

period of 40 to 60 minutes, the curd is cut into small pieces, stirred carefully

for 10 minutes, and (if the rennet was added at 84°) warmed gradually

to 90° in another 20 minutes. Then the whey is drained off, and the

curd is ladled into small cloth bags which are hung up for draining or

pressed lightly. After about an hour the curd is broken up or it may be

cut into small cubes, and it is repressed. Again the curd is broken up,

and salt is mixed in at the rate of 1 ounce of salt to 3 pounds of curd.

The curd is then placed in cloth-lined forms and again pressed. The

cheeses are redressed and repressed after several hours, and then daily, with

gradually increasing pressure, for about 3 days. They are cured on shelves

in a damp curing room at 65° to 70°, for 2 to 3 weeks. During that time

they are kept clean and are inverted frequently. A thin, white layer of

mold forms on the surface^ which is considered desirable in proper ripening.

The cheese is perishable and must be eaten soon after curing. The yield

is relatively high.

Analysis: Moisture, 24.8 percent or more; fat, 30.4 percent; and protein,

37.2 percent.

Calcagno

Galcagno, a hard cheese made in Sicily, is classed as a pecorino (ewe'smilk) cheese suitable for grating.

Cambridge

Cambridge cheese, which is known also as York cheese, is a soft cheese

made in England. Cow's whole milk is set at a temperature of 90° F.

with enough rennet to coagulate it in an hour. The uncut curd is dipped

into molds, and it is ready to eat after standing for 30 hours.

Camembert

Camembert, a soft, surface-ripened, cow's-milk cheese, was first made

in 1791 by Marie Fontaine (Madame Harel) at Camembert, a hamlet in

the Department of Orne, France. It is said that Napoleon was served this

cheese, which was as yet unnamed, and he thereupon named it Camembert.

The industry soon extended from Orne to the Department of Calvados,

and these two Departments are still the principal centers of production.

However, Camembert-type cheese is made also in other parts of France

and in other countries, including the United States.

Each cheese is about 4^4 inches in diameter, 1 to 1^ inches thick, and

weighs about 10 ounces. The interior is yellow and waxy, creamy, or
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 23

almost fluid in consistency, depending on the degree of ripening. The

rind is a thin, felt-like layer of gray mold and dry cheese interspersed with

patches of reddish yellow. Camembert is made in much the same way as

Brie, butit is smaller and the characteristic flavor differs.

The method of making Camembert is in general as follows : Good-quality

whole milk or milk standardized to a fat content of 3.5 percent is put in

small vats or in flat-bottomed, conical metal cans that hold about 200

pounds. Lactic starter is added, and the milk is warmed to a temperature

of approximately 85""F. A litde color may be added, and enough rennet

is added so the curd will be firm enough to dip in 1 to 1 yi hours. The curd

may be cut before it is put into the hoops to hasten drainage of the whey,

but usually it is hooped without cutting.

The curd is ladled carefully, a slice at a time and with as little breaking

as possible, into perforated, circular hoops that rest on rush mats on drain

boards on a draining table. The hoops are about 4/2 inches in diameter

and 5 inches deep and are open at both ends. In some factories half hoops

just large enough to slip over the deeper hoops easily {4YQ inches in diameter and 2/2 inches deep) are used, and in some factories heavy metal disks

are placed on the curd to aid in settling it evenly. The temperature of

the room should be about 70° F.

The hoops are turned and the mats are changed after a few hours, and

this procedure is repeated frequently for about 2 days. At the end of the

first day, the cheeses will have settled to a thickness of 11/2 to 1^ inches, and

the deeper hoops may be removed. At the end of the second day, the

cheeses are removed from the hoops, salted with fine dry salt, and may be

inoculated with a culture of mold and bacteria. The culture either is

mixed with the salt and rubbed on the surface of the cheeses, or it is dissolved in water and sprayed on. Then the cheeses are moved to the

curing room.

Curing the cheese is the most difficult part of the manufacturing process

for there must be a uniform and progressive development of the ripening

agents and at the same time the curd must dry gradually but not too

rapidly. The cheeses are cured on open board frames or shelves at a temperature of about 55° F. and a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent for

about 3 weeks; then at a temperature of 48° to 50°. In the United States,

if the cheese is made from raw milk it is cured for at least 60 days. They

are turned frequently. A primary surface growth of a grayish-white felt-like

layer of mold is followed by a secondary fermentation that produces a trace

of sliminess and changes the surface to show spots of yellow and finally a

reddish or russet color; at the same time the interior of the curd becomes

creamy and somewhat yellow.

The cheeses are wrapped in paper, parchment, or cellophane and may

be covered with metal foil; they usually are packed in round, flat, wooden or

plastic boxes. Sometimes they are cut in pie-shaped segments for marketing, but they are said to cure more normally if they are not cut. From 13

to 15 pounds of Camembert cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of whole

milk.
24 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Analysis: Moisture, 52.3 percent in domestic Camembert, and 43 to 54.4

percent in imported; fat, 24 to 28 percent (at least 50 percent in the solids) ;

protein, 17 to 21 percent; and salt, 2.6 percent.

Camosun

Camosun is a semisoft, open-textured cheese that is said to resemble

Gouda and Monterey. The method of making Camosun, which was developed in 1932 by the Extension Service of Washington State College as

a means of utilizing surplus milk on farms, is similar to but less time consuming than the Granular or Stirred-curd process. The drained curd is

pressed in hoops about 6 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep. The cheese

is salted in brine for 30 hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for 1 to 3

months in a relatively humid room at 50° to 60° F. (See Granular or

Stirred-curd. )

Canned

Canned cheese refers to a method of packaging, not to a kind of cheese,

although cheese so packaged usually is American Cheddar cheese. The

cheese curd is pressed in special forms the size and shape of the can, either

round or rectangular, and is sealed and cured in the can. Between 1933

and 1940, the Bureau of Dairy Industry developed a method for curing

cheese in a special valve-vented can which permits the escape of gases but

prevents the entrance of air and hence prevents the development of mold.

Later, the New York (Geneva) and Washington experiment stations developed methods for sealing the cheese in cans under vacuum. The properties and composition of canned cheese are like those of the same cheese

not canned except that there is no loss of moisture and no loss in weight

while curing. Early work on curing cheese in cans developed information

on the conditions necessary for curing cheese in packages and thus helped to

pave the way for the present large-scale production of packaged natural

rindless loaf cheese. (See Natural Rindless Loaf.)

Canquillote

Canquillote, also called Fromagère and Tempête, is a skim-milk cheese

made in eastern France. The milk is curdled by souring, after which it is

heated slowly and the whey removed. The curd is pressed and then broken

up and allowed to ferment at a temperature of about 70° F. for about 2 or 3

days, with frequent stirring. After the characteristic flavor has developed,

the curd is warmed and stirred. Water, salt, eggs, and butter are mixed

with the curd, and it is pressed in molds of various shapes.

Cantal

Cantal, also known locally as Fourme, is a hard, rather yellow cheese

with a piquant flavor and firm, close body. It has been made for centuries

in the region of the Auvergne Mountains in the Department of Cantal,

France. The cheeses are about 14 inches in diameter and usually weigh

about 75 pounds, but they vary in weight from 40 to 120 pounds.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 25

The method of manufacture has remained rather primitive. Rennet is

added to cow's whole milk, either fresh or slightly ripened, at a temperature

of 86° F., and about an hour later the curd is cut fine anjd the whey is drained

off. The curd is pressed to remove as much whey as possible and then is

ripened for 24 hours, which is considered very important. The curd then

is broken up and 3 to 4 percent of salt is added. It is kneaded thoroughly,

placed in hoops, and pressed for 36 to 48 hours; it is turned 2 or 3 times

during the first 24 hours. The cheeses then are removed from the hoops,

dried, and placed in the curing cellar. They are cured usually for 3 to 4

months but sometimes for as long as 6 months. While curing they are

washed with salty water and turned frequently. The yield of cured cheese

is about 10 percent of the weight of the milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 39.9 to 44.8 percent; fat, 28 to 34 percent; protein,

20.5 to 25 percent; and salt, 2 to 3.1 percent.

Caraway

Caraway cheese is a so-called Spiced cheese that contains caraway seed.

(See Spiced cheese.)

Carré

Carré or Carré Frais, known also as Double Crème Carré and Fromage

Double Crème, is a small, rich French Cream cheese of the Neufchâtel type.

Usually it is about 2 inches square, less than an inch thick, and weighs less

than 4 ounces. However, it is also made in a larger size—about 4J/^ to 5

inches in diameter, 1 to IJ/a inches thick, and 10 to 12 ounces in weight—

similar to Camembert and Coulommiers. It is made from a rich milkand-cream mixture, which is coagulated with rennet. The curd is placed in

a cloth to drain; when the whey has drained completely, the curd is salted,

mixed thoroughly, and then put into molds to form the cheeses. It is eaten

fresh.

Cheese made in a similar way, with considerable salt added to act as a

preservative, is called Demisel.

Analysis : Fat in the solids^ 60 percent; salt, 2 percent.

Carré de l'Est

Carré de TEst is a Camembert-type cheese made in France from either

pasteurized or unpasteurized cow's whole milk. In fact, the method used

for making Camembert in some factories in the United States is like the

French method for making Carré de l'Est rather than true Camembert.

The chief difference in the making process is that the curd is cut before

dipping in making Carré de l'Est, which accelerates early drainage of whey,

and the cheese is said to be softer. ( See Camembert. )

Analysis: Moisture, 50 to 55 percent; fat in the solids, 45 to 50 percent.

Casigiolu

Casigiolu, also called Panedda and Pera di vacca, is made in Sardinia.

It is a plastic-curd cheese and is made by the same method used in making

Caciocavallo. (See Caciocavallo.)
26 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Castelmagno

Castelmagno is a blue-mold^ Gorgonzola-type cheese made in Italy.

Champoleon

Ghampoleon, also known as Queyras, is a hard cheese similar to Ganquillote. It is made from skim milk in the Hautes-Alps region in France.

Chanteile

Ghantelle is the trade name of a semisoft, ripened cheese that is made

in Illinois from cow's fresh, whole milk. It is made and cured in a

manner similar to Bel Paese. Micro-organisms growing on the surface of

the cheese are partly responsible for the characteristic ripening. However,

Ghantelle is coated with red cheese wax when the surface ripening is at an

earlier stage of development than in Bel Paese; it is cured at somewhat

higher temperatures; and it does not soften so much in ripening. It may

be shipped about 3 weeks after it is made, in which c^se it undergoes

further ripening while it is being transported and marketed. It is somewhat similar to Trappist cheese; that is, it has a characteristic mild flavor,

a rather open texture, and a smooth, waxy body suitable for slicing. It is

round and flat, about 8 inches in diameter, and weighs about 5 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 48.9 percent; fat, 26.7 percent; fat in the solids,

52.5 percent; and salt, 2.4 percent.

Chaource

Ghaource, which is named for the village of Ghaource in the Department of Aube, France, is a soft, whole-milk cheese that resembles

Gamembert. Itis about 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick.

Chaschol

Ghaschol, or Ghaschosis, is a hard cheese made in the Ganton of Grisons

in eastern Switzerland from cow's skim milk. It is from 17 to 20 inches

in diameter, from 2% to 4 inches thick, and weighs from 22 to 45 pounds.

Cheddar

Cheddar cheese is named for the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire,

England, where it was first made. The exact date of origin is not known,

but it has been made since the latter part of the 16th century.

Colonial housewives made the first Cheddar cheese in America; and

the first cheese factory in the United States was a Cheddar-cheese factory,

established in 1851 by Jesse Williams, near Rome, Oneida County, N. Y.

Production increased rapidly with the establishment of the factory system.

At present, nearly 900 million pounds of Cheddar (and Cheddar-type)

cheese is made in the United States each year, which is about 75 percent

of all the cheese made. In fact, it is made and used so widely that it
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 27

often is called American cheese^ or American Cheddar cheese, and cheeses

similar to Cheddar but made by a slightly modified process are called

American-type cheeses. (See American.)

In addition to being the name of the cheese^ Cheddar is the name of a

step in the manufacturing process and also the name of the most common

style, which is about 14}/^ inches in diameter, 12 inches thick, and weighs

between 70 and 78 pounds. Other styles are: Daisy, which is about 13^

inches in diameter, slightly more than 4 inches thick, and weighs 21 to 23

pounds; Flat or Twin, which is 14^ inches in diameter, slightly more than

5 inches thick, and weighs 32 to 37 pounds; Longhorn, which is 6 inches

in diameter, 13 inches long, and weighs 12 to 13 pounds; Young American,

which is 7 inches in diameter, 7 inches thick, and weighs 11 to 12 pounds;

Picnic or Junior Twin, which is 9% inches in diameter, 5 inches thick,

and weighs 11 to 12 pounds; and rectangular blocks or prints, which usually

are 14 inches long, 11 inches in diameter, 3^4 inches thick, and weigh

20 pounds. However, they are made in larger sizes that weigh up to 80

pounds. The blocks are often cut into prints and packaged (see Natural

Rindless Loaf). In many stores, the 1-pound print is most popular.

Cheddar is a hard cheese, ranging in color from nearly white to yellow.

It is made from sweet, whole cow's milk, either raw or pasteurized. ( If it

is made from partly skimmed or skim milk, it must be so labeled.)

Research has shown that pasteurizing the milk improves the quality of

the cheese; and that cheese of uniformly good quality can be made from

pasteurized milk by the so-called time-schedule method. Use of the time

schedule systematizes the cheese-making operations and makes it possible

to control the amount of acid that develops and the rate of its development

during the making process. More than 75 percent of the Cheddar cheese

made in the United States is now made from pasteurized milk by this

method.

The pasteurized milk is cooled to the setting temperature (86° to 88° F.)

and run into the cheese vat. Starter is added and the milk is agitated

(stirred) usually for about an hour as the milk ripens (develops acidity).

The amount of starter and the length of the ripening period are adjusted

so that acid will develop at the desired rate during the making process.

Then rennet and color are mixed in thoroughly and stirring is stopped.

When the curd is sufficiently firm, usually about 30 minutes after setting,

it is cut with curd knives into |í4-inch or %-inch cubes. It is stirred continuously from cutting to dipping (draining the whey). About 15 minutes

after cutting is completed, the curd is heated gradually (in about 30 minutes) to a temperature of about 100°.

About 2^ hours after the rennet was added, the curd is pushed back

from, the gate end of the vat, and the whey is drained. Draining should

be completed in 15 minutes; then a ditch is made down the middle of the

vat and the curd is packed about 7 or 8 inches deep on each side. When

it is firm enough to be turned without breaking it is cheddared or matted,

that is, it is cut into slabs 5 or 6 inches wide which are turned frequently

and, finally, when firm enough, piled in layers. Then the curd is run

through a curd mill and spread evenly over the bottom of the vat and
28 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Stirred. About 2J/i to 3^2 pounds of salt for each 1,000 pounds of milk

is mixed in; and the curd is piled on either side of the vat while the whey

drains.

When the salt has dissolved completely, the curd is transferred to clothlined metal hoops and pressed for about 30 minutes. Then the hoops are

removed from the press, the cheeses are dressed, pressed again for 12 to 24

hours, and then removed from the hoops and dried for 3 or 4 days at a

temperature of 50° to 60° F.

After drying, they are dipped in paraffin or cheese wax. Then they

usually are boxed (1 to 4 in a box) and shipped to a warehouse to cure;

however, sometimes they are cured unboxed on shelves at the factory.

They are cured usually at a temperature between 40° and 50° F., but

it may be as low as 35° or as high as 60°. They are cured for at least 60

days, usually for 3 to 6 months, and in some instances for as long as a year.

Between 9^/^ and 11 pounds of cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 37 to 38 percent (not more than 39 percent) ; fat,

32 percent (fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent) ; protein, 25 percent;

and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.

Cheshire

Cheshire, which is also called Chester, ranks with Cheddar as the oldest

and most popular of English cheeses; both were well known as early as

the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Cheshire was first made in the village of

Chester on the river Dee; it is said that it was molded originally in the

form of the famous "Cheshire Cat."

Cheshire is a firm cheese, but it is more crumbly and not so compact

as Cheddar. It is cylindrical in shape, like Cheddar; the cheeses are about

14 inches in diameter and usually between 50 and 70 pounds in weight.

The curd may be nearly white but more often it is colored deep yellow with

annatto.

There are three general types of Cheshire cheese: (1) Early-ripening,

which is made from early spring until May and which usually is marketed

locally; (2) medium-ripening, which is made in May and June and in the

autumn and which is the most common type; and (3) late-ripening, which

is made in summer, is cured more fully, and is sold in more distant markets.

The three types differ slightly in the details of manufacture, such as the

setting temperature, the rate of development of acidity, the cutting of the

curd, and the cooking temperature. Following is a general description

of the method of making medium-ripening Cheshire :

Evening and morning milk are mixed in a cheese vat, color usually is

added, and the milk is set with lactic starter and rennet at a temperature

of 86° F. After a coagulation period of an hour, the curd is stirred carefully and cut gradually to fine particles with a curd breaker or curd knives.

In the next hour, part of the whey is removed and the curd settles in the

remaining whey and then is stirred and warmed to 88°. In the next 30

or 40 minutes the curd settles again in the whey, after which the whey is

drained off. Then the loosely matted curd is rolled up to one end of the
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 29

vat and is pressed with a lightly weighted curd rack to hasten drainage,

after which the curd is cut into rather large cubes and is spread on a curd

cloth on a drain rack. After it has drained for 2 to 3 hours, during which

time it is turned occasionally, it is cut into small cubes. It is kept warm

while it continues to drain. Then it is put through a curd mill, salt is

mixed in at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and it is placed

in forms. There are holes in the sides of the forms through which skewers

(pegs) are inserted to make holes in the cheese to facilitate the drainage of

whey. The forms, which may be turned occasionally, are kept overnight

in a cheese oven or other warm place at a temperature between 75° and 80°.

The next morning the cheese is removed from the forms, dressed in cloth,

and placed in a press. It is pressed for about 4 days and turned daily

while in the press; the pressure is increased gradually until finally it reaches

about 2,000 pounds. The cheese is removed from the press, scalded in hot

water, and dressed in a bandage. It is cured on shelves in a curing room

at a temperature of 60° to 65°.

The early-ripening type may be cured for as short a time as 3 weeks,

the medium-ripening type is cured for about 2 months, and the late-ripening type is cured for at least 10 weeks and often for 8 to 10 months. The

longer curing period improves the cheese.

The yield of cured cheese is 9 to 11 pounds per 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 37 to 43 percent; fat, 28 to 31 percent; and salt,

2 to 2.5 percent.

Cheshire-Stilton

Cheshire-Stilton is an English cheese that combines the characteristics of

the Cheshire and Stilton varieties. The method of making, size, and shape

are similar to Cheshire, and mold peculiar to Stilton develops during curing.

The mold is propagated by mixing a small portion of fresh curd every day

with older curd in which the mold is growing well. (See Cheshire and

Stilton.)

Chhana

Chhana is a sour-milk cheese made in Asia from cow's whole milk.

Chiavari

Chiavari is a sour-milk cheese made from cow's whole milk in the region

of Chiavari^ in the Province of Genoa, Italy.

Christalinna

Christalinna is a hard cheese made from cow's milk in the Canton of

Grisons, Switzerland.

Christian IX

Christian IX is a Danish cheese that differs from Kuminost principally

in size and shape. It is cylindrical and flat and weighs less than 35 pounds.

It contains spices^ such as caraway seed. The surface is coated with yellow

paraffin or wax.

Analysis: At least 45 percent of fat in the solids.
30 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Colby

Colby cheese, which is similar to Cheddar, may be made from either raw

or pasteurized milk. It is made in the same way as Cheddar except that

(as in Granular or Stirred-curd cheese) the curd is not matted and milled.

However, in making Granular or Stirred-curd cheese, water is not added

to the curd to cool it as is done in making Colby.

After the curd has been cut, stirred, and heated (as in the Cheddar

process) the whey is drained to the level of the curd. Then the vat gate is

closed and rather cool water (about 60° F.) is added with continuous

stirring until the temperature of the curd has been reduced to about 80°.

Stirring is continued for 10 to 20 minutes, then the curd is pushed to the

sides of the vat and stirred enough to prevent matting as the whey drains.

About an hour after the whey is drained, salt is added to the curd in 2 or 3

applications, each application being mixed thoroughly with the curd ( as in

the Cheddar process). The curd is again pushed to the sides of the vat to

drain while the salt is dissolving, which requires at least 20 minutes. Then

the curd is hooped and pressed (as in the Cheddar process). The cheese

is cured for a somewhat longer period than washed-curd cheese, but not

so long as Cheddar. If it is made from raw milk, it must be cured for at

least 60 days unless itis to be used for manufacturing.

Colby has a softer body and more open texture than Cheddar cheese,

and it contains more moisture. For these reasons, it does not keep as well

as Cheddar.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 40 percent (usually 38 percent) ; fat

in the solids, not less than 50 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.

Cold-pack

Cold-pack cheese, known also as Club or Comminuted cheese and which

is said to have originated in the United States, usually is an excellent product with a sharp cheese flavor. It is prepared by grinding very fine and

mixing without heating one or more lots of the same or different varieties

of cheese to which vinegar or lactic, citric, acetic, or phosphoric acid, water,

salt, color, and spices may be added. The acid or vinegar should not

reduce the pH of the cheese below 4.5.

It usually is made from carefully selected and well aged Cheddar cheese.

Other Cheddar types (such as Washed-curd, Colby, or Granular), Roquefort (or Roquefort-type), Gorgonzola, Gruyère, and Limburger are also used

in various combinations. Soft, unripened cheese (such as Cream, Neufchâtel, and Cottage), and semisoft, spiced, part skim-milk, skim-milk, and

hard, grating cheeses are not used. It is made from pasteurized-milk cheese

or from cheese that has been held for at least 60 days at a temperature of not

less than 35° F. It may be made from smoked cheese, or it may be smoked

as a part of the making process.

The ground cheese mixture is packed in various types of containers, all of

which are designed to keep out air. Some of the common types are : Transparent sausage-shaped casings; waxed cardboard cups; metal foil; trans-
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 31

parent, flexible wrappers in cardboard cartons; and porcelain or glass jars

or crocks with airtight covers. When marketed in the latter type of package,

the cheese sometimes is called Potted cheese.

This type of product can be made at home; however, grinding and mixing

the cheese changes its texture and the product is inclined to be "mealy."

The housewife can make the product richer and increase its smoothness by

adding butter. When made for sale commercially, however, adding the

butter makes the product subject to the Federal law that restricts the manufacture and sale of "filled" cheese. ( See Filled cheese. )

Analysis : Moisture, not more than the maximum legal limit for the variety

of natural cheese from which it is made, or the average of the maximum

legal limits if more than one variety is used, but in no case more than 42 percent (or 39 percent if made from Cheddar or Cheddar-type cheeses). Fat

in the solidSj not less than the minimum legal limit for the variety of natural

cheese used, or the average of the minimum legal limits if more than one

variety is used, but in no case less than 47 percent (or 45 percent if made

from Swiss or Gruyère).

Cold-pack Cheese Food

Cold-pack cheese food is prepared by grinding very fine and mixing

without heating one or more lots of the same or difí'erent varieties of cheese

with one or more so-called optional dairy ingredients, to which may be

added one or more of the following: An acidifying agent, water, salt,

color, spices, and a sweetening agent.

Cold-pack cheese food is made from pasteurized-milk cheese or from

cheese that has been held for at least 60 days at a temperature of not less

than 35° F. Cheddar cheese and the Cheddar types (such as Washedcurd, Colby, and Granular), Roquefort (or Roquefort-type), Gorgonzola,

Gruyère, and Limburger are used in various combinations. Soft, unripened cheese (such as Cream, Neufchâtel, and Cottage), and semisoft,

spiced, part skim-milk, skim-milk, and the hard, grating cheeses are not

used. It may be made from smoked cheese, or it may be smoked as a part

of the making process.

The optional dairy ingredients used are cream, milk, skim milk, cheese

whey, or any of these from which part of the water has been removed;

and albumin from cheese whey. They are pasteurized or are made from

products that have been pasteurized.

The acidifying agents used are: Vinegar, lactic acid, citric acid, acetic

acid, and phosphoric acid. The pH of the cheese food should not be

reduced below 4.5.

The sweetening agents used are : Sugar, dextrose, corn sugar, corn sirup,

corn-sirup solids, maltose, malt sirup, and hydrolyzed lactose.

Fruits, vegetables, or meats may be added.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent; fat^ not less than 23 percent. If fruits, vegetables, or meats are added, the milk-fat content must

be at least 22 percent.

260172°—53 3
32 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Commission

Commission cheese is made in the Provinces of North Holland and

Friesland, in the Netherlands. It is made from slightly skimmed milk

in the same way as Edam and is the same shape, but each cheese weighs

about 8 pounds, which is twice as much as the average Edam. (See Edam.)

Analysis: Fat in the solids, at least 40 percent.

Comté

Comté cheese, made in eastern France, is similar to Gruyère. Each

cheese weighs between 100 and 120 pounds. (See Gruyère.)

Cooked

Cooked cheese (German, Kochkäse, literally Cook cheese) is so named

because it is made by heating or "cooking" cheese curd. It is made not

only in the United States but also in many foreign countries, and in the

home as well as in the factory. The method of making differs somewhat

in different countries and in different localities within a country, and the

cheese is known by different local names. In the United States, the local

names include Gup cheese and Pennsylvania Pot cheese; in northern Germany, it is called Topfen; and in Sardinia, Fresa. When properly made,

Cooked cheese has an agreeable flavor and a smooth buttery consistency

similar to Camembert.

The fresh cheese curd which is the basic ingredient of Cooked cheese

is made from skim milk, or reconstituted concentrated skim milk or nonfat

dry milk solids, or a mixture of any of these. The curd usually is prepared

in the same way as ordinary Cottage-cheese curd and preferably should

be rather dry. (See Cottage cheese.)

The fresh curd is either stirred thoroughly or ground in a meat grinder,

after which it is placed in a container, such as a crock or pot, covered,

and kept warm until it ripens. It is stirred once or twice a day while it

ripens. Usually it will ripen sufficiently in 3 or 4 days at a temperature

of SO"" to 85° F., in about 5 days at 75°, and in a week at 70°. The

length of the ripening period depends on the softness and moisture content

of the original curd, the temperature at which it is held, and the flavor

desired in the finished cheese. The curd is ripened to a lesser extent if

cheese with a mild flavor is desired.

Sometimes soda is added to the curd before it is cooked, at the rate of

yi teaspoon of soda per pound of curd or 1 pound per 100 pounds of curd.

The soda aids in softening the curd; when it is added the ripening period

is shortened or may even be omitted.

When ripe the curd consists of two layers. On the top is a layer of

particles of curd covered with a wrinkled, gelatinous, viscous mass of

mold mycelia, beneath which is a layer of semiliquid curd with a characteristic strong flavor and odor. It may be slightly yellow throughout.

Sometimes flavoring materials, such as butter or cream, salt, caraway

seed, egg, pimentos, or olives, are added either just before the curd is

cooked or just before it is poured into the glasses.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 33

The entire mass is heated to 180° F., with continual stirring, until it is

melted and smooth and has a honey-like consistency when dropped from

a ladle. This usually requires about 30 minutes. Skim milk or water

may be added to replace the loss by evaporation. It is poured into clean

molds, cups, or glasses, covered, and cooled. When cool, it is ready to eat.

However, it will keep several days under refrigeration; the flavors blend

and there is some ripening during the holding period.

Analysis: Not more than 80 percent of moisture (usually 70 to 75

percent).

Coon

Goon cheese is a Cheddar cheese that is cured by a special patented

method. There are two characteristic features in the curing process:

Cheese containing 36 to 40 percent of moisture is cured at a temperature

of 55° to 70° F., and at a relative humidity as high as 95 percent; both

temperature and humidity are higher than usual. High-quality cheese is

required for these curing conditions. Mold grows readily on cheese when

the temperature and relative humidity are high. Cheddar usually is cured

at a temperature of 40° to 50° and at a relative humidity of 70 to 75

percent.

The surface of Coon cheese is colored very dark; the body is short and

crumbly; and the flavor is very sharp and tangy. It is a favorite with some

consumers who prefer fully cured, extremely sharp Cheddar cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, 36 percent; fat, 33 percent; and salt, 2 percent.

Cornhusker

Cornhusker cheese was introduced by the Nebraska Agricultural Experiment Station about 1940. It is similar to Cheddar and Colby, but has a

softer body, contains more moisture, and takes less time to make. (The

making process, up to the hooping stage, takes only about 2 hours.) Like

Brick cheese, Cornhusker contains numerous mechanical openings.

Lactic starter is added to whole milk; the milk is coagulated firmly with

rennet; and the curd is cut, heated, and stirred until it is firm. Then the

whey is drained off, and the curd is washed with water, salted, hooped,

and pressed. The pressed cheese is coated with two layers of wax. The

cheese is cured in a moist room at a temperature of 65° F. for 1 to 2 months

or at 45° for 6 to 12 months. The yield is 10.7 pounds per 100 pounds of

milk containing 3.7 percent of fat.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 45 percent; and fat, 28 to 32 percent.

Cotherstone

Cotherstone, known also as Yorkshire-Stilton, is a blue-veined cheese made

on a small scale in the valley of the Tees, in Yorkshire, in northern England,

from cow's milk. It is similar to Stilton but is less well known than either

Stilton or Wensleydale, other blue-veined cheeses made in England.

Analysis: Moisture, 38 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 24 percent; and

salt, 2.5 percent.
34 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Cotronese

Cotronese is a ewe's milk cheese similar to Moliterno. Both originated

in Calabria and Lucania^ Italy. They are said to be seasoned at times

with pepper.

Cottage

Cottage cheese, sometimes called Pot cheese and also Dutch cheese or

Schmierkäse, is a soft, uncured cheese made from skim milk or from

reconstituted concentrated skim milk or nonfat dry milk solids.

Large-grained, low-acid cheese is made by adding rennet to the milk,

cutting the curd into large cubes, and washing the curd thoroughly to

reduce the acid flavor. Itis known as sweet-curd Cottage cheese, flake-type

Cottage cheese, and low-acid rennet-type Cottage cheese. The large

particles of curd resemble kernels of popped corn, and in some localities

this kind of cheese is called Popcorn cheese. Small-grained Cottage cheese

sometimes is called country-style or farm-style cheese.

Usually some cream is mixed with the cheese curd before it is marketed

or consumed. If the cheese contains 4 percent or more of fat, it is called

Creamed Cottage cheese. Flavoring materials, such as peppers, olives, and

pimentos, may be added also.

Large quantities of Cottage cheese are made and consumed in the United

States; it is highly nutritious and palatable and is used as a table cheese

and in salads. It is easy to make both in the home and in the factory. In

the home, about 1 pound of cheese is obtained from 1 gallon of skim milk;

in the factory, from 12 to 15 pounds of curd is obtained from 100 pounds of

skim milk and this makes from 14 to 18 pounds of Creamed Cottage cheese.

Cottage cheese may be made by either the short-setting method or the

long-setting method. In the short-setting method, more lactic starter is

added to the milk than in the long-setting method; the milk is set at a higher

temperature; and the coagulation period is shorter. In both methods, the

milk is pasteurized and cooled to the setting temperature. Lactic starter

is added; rennet may be added; and the milk is held at the setting temperature until it curdles.

The curd is ready to cut when it is firm but not hard and brittle. It is

cut into cubes, the size determining to some extent the size of the curd

particles in the finished cheese. Then the curd is heated, with careful

stirring. The teinperature to which the curd is heated and the length of

the heating period depend on the characteristics of the curd and the acidity

of the whey. When the curd has attained the proper firmness, the whey

is drained off and the curd washed first with cool tap water, then with ice

water, and then the water is drained off. When the curd is firm and dry,

it is salted. It may be creamed and packed in consumer-size cartons.

However, it is customary for the manufacturer to pack the curd in tubs or

tins that hold as much as 50 pounds for shipping to the distributor, who

creams and packs it in consumer-size cartons to supply his daily needs. The

curd may be held for several days at a temperature of 32° to 35° F.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 80 percent (usually 70 to 72 percent).
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 35

Coulommiers

Coulommiers cheese, first made in the vicinity of Coulommiers, in the

Department of Seine-et-Mame, France, is a soft, mold-ripened, unwashed

cheese. According to some authorities, Coulommiers and the smallest

(1-pound) Brie are identical; according to other authorities, Coulommiers

is similar to Brie and to Camembert, but is ripened for a shorter period.

(See Brie for a description of the making process.)

A modified Coulommiers cheese is made in the United States and Canada.

It is suitable for making in the home as the process and equipment are

simple. It usually is eaten fresh or when only a few days old. If mellower

cheese with a stronger flavor is desired, it may be held for a week or two,

although by that time the surface of the cheese may be moldy. ^ The

cheeses are round and flat, about 5/2 inches in diameter and 1 to I/2 inches

thick, and they weigh between % and 1 pound. The yield is I/3 to 2

pounds of cheese per gallon of milk.

Cow's fresh, whole milk, or a mixture of evening and morning milk, is

warmed to 86^ F. (some authorities recommend 80°), in a vat or other

container. Lactic starter and rennet are added, the amount depending

on the condition of the milk and whether it is desired to have the curd firm

enough to cut in 30 minutes, in 1 to I/2 hours, or in 2 to 3 hours. After

the rennet is added, the surface of the mixture is stirred gently for a few

minutes to keep the cream from rising, but stirring is discontinued before

coagulation begins. The temperature of the milk should not go below

SO"". While the curd is still soft, large ladlefuls are removed and set aside

to be placed on the cheeses later to form smooth tops.

The coagulated curd may be cut into /2- or ^-inch cubes and ladled

carefully into the hoops about 15 minutes after cutting; or it may be cut

into thin slices with a sharp-edged ladle and transferred to the hoops without breaking. The set-aside curd is put into the hoops last.

The hoops are metal, open at top and bottom, and perforated on the

sides to permit drainage of the whey. They are about 5 inches in diameter and consist of two fitted sections—a lower section about 2 inches deep

and an upper collar 3 inches deep. Two to four hoops are placed on a

drain mat which is spread on a movable board on a grooved drain table.

The temperature of the room should be at least.68° F. so the curd will

drain and firm properly, and the hoops are covered to reduce loss of heat.

The hoops are turned frequently at first, then less often, as the curd settles

and drains. When the curd has settled into the lower half of the hoops,

the top half is removed and a drain mat is placed over the hoops with a

drain board over the mat, and the hoops together with the board are turned

together.

The cheeses may be sprinkled with fine salt after each turning the first

day; they are turned and salted again in the hoops the morning of the

second day, and are removed from the hoops the morning of the third day.

Or salting may be delayed until the cheeses are removed from the hoops,

when they are placed in strong salt brine for an hour or longer, then dried.

The cheeses are wrapped in parchment, usually with an outer tinfoil
36 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

wrapper. Usually they are eaten fresh, but they may be held a week or

two at a temperature of about 52° F., and no higher than 60°. Some

people prefer this cheese after it has cured several weeks. While curing,

it should be held at a somewhat lower temperature either in a moist place

or covered to prevent drying, turned frequently, and kept clean and free

of excess mold.

Analysis: Moisture, 55 to 60 percent; fat, 22 to 24 percent; protein, 13

to 15 percent; and salt, 2 to 2.5 percent.

Cream

Cream cheese is a soft, mild, rich, uncured cheese made of cream or a

mixture of cream and milk, and used as a spread for bread, in sandwiches,

and with salads. It is similar to unripened Neufchatel but has a higher fat

content. It is one of the most popular soft cheeses in the United States and

is made in many factories throughout the country, especially in New York

and Wisconsin. In addition, there are several French Cream cheeses. (See

Carré and Fromage a la Crème. )

The method of making Cream cheese varies in the different factories in

the United States; following is a general description:

The cream, or milk-and-cream mixture, which usually is homogenized, is

pasteurized, cooled to a temperature of 75° to 85° F., and lactic-acid culture,

with or without rennet, is added. After the curd forms, it is stirred until

it is smooth and then is heated by one of two methods. In one method, the

curd is heated in the vat, with stirring, to a temperature of 115° to 125°

and held at that temperature until the whey begins to separate from the

curd. Then the curd is ready to drain. It may be placed in draining

bags immediately or it may be cooled before it is placed in the bags. In

the other method, the curd is stirred until it is smooth, and stirring is continued as hot water (equal to the volume of curd) is added. The temperature of the water should be about 170° to 180°. When the curdwater mixture reaches a temperature of 120° to 130°, it is poured into the

draining bags.

When whey has practically stopped draining from the curd, the cheese is

packaged by either the cold-pack method or the hot-pack method. In the

cold-pack method, the »curd is pressed and chilled, and salt is added; it is

then mixed until it is smooth, and flavoring materials—such as pimentoes,

olives, pineapple, or relish—may be added. Usually it is packed in metal

foil or in glasses sealed with metal tops.

In the hot-pack method, the curd is stirred and salted, and any one of

several dairy ingredients may be added. Then the mixture is pasteurized,

it may be homogenized, flavoring material may be added, and it is packed

immediately (while it is in a semifluid condition) in the final package.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 55 percent (usually 48 to 52 percent) ;

fat, not less than 33 percent (usually 35 to 38 percent) ; protein, 10 percent;

and salt, 0.8 to 1.2 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 37

Creole

Creole is a soft, rich, unripened, Cottage-type cheese, made by mixing

about equal quantities of Cottage-type curd and rich cream. It is made in

Louisiana and considerable quantities are produced for the New Orleans

market.

Crescenza

Crescenza, also known as Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, and Crescenza

Lombardi, is an uncooked, soft, creamy, mildly sweet, fast-ripening, yellowish

cheese of the Bel Paese type. It is made from September to April in Lombardy, in northern Italy, from cow's whole milk. A similar cheese called

Raviggiolo is made in Tuscany, Italy, from ewe's milk.

The milk is coagulated with rennet extract at 87° F. The curd is cut

and dipped into rectangular wooden forms which are laid on straw mats to

drain for a day. The cheese is held at 68° for another day; then it is

salted with dry salt and ripened in a cold, moist room for 10 to 15 days.

The cheeses weigh from /a to SJ/i pounds.

Analysis : Fat in the solids, exceeds 50 percent.

Creuse

Creuse is a skim-milk cheese made on farms in the Department of Creuse,

France. Enough rennet is added to the milk to coagulate it in approximately

12 hours, or it may be warmed and curdled by souring. The curd is stirred

and warmed, then dipped into earthenware molds, about 7 inches in

diameter and 5 or 6 inches deep. The molds are perforated on the bottom

and sides so that the whey can drain off. After several days the cheese is

removed from the molds, and it is turned and rubbed with salt at regular

intervals. It may be aged for a year or more, in which case it becomes very

dry and firm; or it may be put into tightly closed containers lined with straw

to ripen, in which case it becomes soft and yellow and acquires a very

pronounced flavor.

Damen

Damen, sometimes called Gloire des Montagnes, is a soft, uncured cheese

made in Hungary from cow's milk.

Danish Export

Danish Export cheese is made in some of the creameries in Denmark to

furnish an outlet for skim milk and buttermilk. The cheese is small, flat,

and cylindrical, about the size and shape of Gouda. As much as 15 percent

of fresh buttermilk is mixed with skim milk and set at 98° F. with enough

rennet to coagulate it in 25 minutes. The curd is cut carefully, stirred,

dipped into forms having rounded bottoms, kneaded, pressed down, and

finally covered with a board on which a weight is placed. After 12 hours,
38 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

the cheeses are placed in a brine tank. They are taken out of the brine

after 24 hours^ covered with salt for a short time, and then transferred to

the curing room where the temperature is about 55°. They are turned and

wiped with a cloth every day during the ripening period of 5 weeks.

Analysis: Moisture, 39 to 50 percent; fat, 9 to 24 percent; protein, 28 to

34 percent; and salt^ 1 to 3 percent.

Delft

Delft is a spiced cheese made in the Netherlands from partly skimmed

cow's milk. Itis almost exactly like Leyden. ( See Leyden. )

Derby

Derby, or Derbyshire, is a hard, sweet-curd cheese made in Derbyshire,

England, from cow's whole milk. It is similar to Cheddar but is not so

firm and solid, is more flaky when broken, has a higher moisture content,

and ripens more rapidly. Gloucester, Leicester, Warwickshire, and Wiltshire are other English cheeses that are very similar to Derby.

Factory production of cheese in England began in 1870 with the establishment of two factories for making Derby cheese. This made it possible to

produce cheese more uniform in quality and size than was made in farm

dairies. The cheeses are circular, about 15 inches in diameter and 5 inches

thick, and weigh about 30 pounds.

A mixture of evening and morning milk is warmed to a temperature of

80° to 85° F. Lactic starter and rennet are added, and color is added for

certain markets. About an hour after the milk is set, the curd should be

very firm. It is then cut, heated with stirring to a temperature of 96° in

50 minutes, and the whey is drained oíT. Sometimes the curd is placed on

a cloth on a drain rack to drain, and sometimes the whey is expelled by

pressing the curd lightly, then more heavily, in the vat. The matted curd

is cut into large blocks which are kept warm and are turned occasionally as

the whey continues to drain and then develops firmness.

When the curd is sufficiently firm—usually in about 40 minutes—it is

put through a curd mill. Sometimes it is salted at this time (as in making

Cheddar and Cheshire), and it is put in the hoops and pressed.

When the cheeses have been in the press an hour, they are removed and

immersed in hot water (at a temperature of 150° F.) for about a minute;

then they are dressed in cloth and pressed again. About 5 hours later,

they are removed from the press again. If the curd was not salted earlier,

the cheeses are salted on the surface before they are redressed and returned

to the press. This procedure is repeated at intervals and the pressure is

increased gradually, until the final pressure is about a ton.

Usually the cheeses are taken to the curing room on the third day.

They are cured at a temperature of approximately 60° F. for at least a

month, but more often for 3 or 4 months as the flavor and quality improve with age.

Analysis: Moisture, 35 to 39 percent; fat, 28 to 30.5 percent; and salt,

2 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 39

Devonshire Cream

Devonshire Cream cheese is made in England. Cream is allowed to

rise on the milk, then the milk with the layer of cream is heated to the

boiling point, without stirring. After this it is set aside for a short time

until the layer of cream becomes firm. The cream is put into small molds,

which are placed on straw mats to drain. When the cheeses are hard

enough to retain their shape, they are ready to market.

Domiati

Domiati, a so-called pickled cheese and one of the most popular Egyptian

cheeses, is made also in some of the other tropical countries where Arabic

is spoken. It is made from whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's

milk. It is a soft, white cheese with no openings, mild and salty in flavor

when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. When it is held for prolonged

periods (a year or more) it darkens in color and develops a strong flavor.

The cheeses usually are I/2 inches thick and about 3^ inches square;

but sometimes they are cylindrical in shape, either 2^ or 5 inches in

diameter.

The principal characteristic that distinguishes Domiati from other cheeses

is that salt is added to the milk at the beginning of the cheese-making

process, before rennet is added. Usually from 5 to 15 percent of salt is

added to two-thirds of the milk, and the rest is heated to a temperature

of 170° F.; then the two portions are mixed, and rennet is added at 105°

to 115°. However, if the cheese is made in a jacketed vat so a constant

temperature can be maintained, a setting temperature of 95° to 100° is

preferable. After a coagulation period of 2 to 3 hours, the curd is ladled

into metal hoops or wooden forms lined with mosquito netting. If a large

quantity of cheese is being made, a form may be made by fastening planks

to a drain table. The forms vary in size. The smallest are the size of a

single cheese, a large wooden form may hold 100 pounds of curd, and a

form made of planks may hold as much as a ton.

The curd in the small hoops or forms is inverted frequently; that in

the large forms is pressed and then cut into suitable sizes for marketing.

If it is to be marketed as fresh cheese, it is wrapped in waxed paper. If it

is to be cured, it is pickled in salt-whey or salt-milk brine. For local

markets, the cheese is cured for 4 to 8 months in the brine solution in

earthenware containers. For shipping, the cheese in the brine solution

is sealed in tin containers.

About 25 pounds of cheese can be made from 100 pounds of cow's whole

milk and 33 pounds from 100 pounds of buffalo's whole milk, to which

7.5 percent of salt is added.

Analysis (whole-milk, cured cheese) : Moisture, 52 to 55 percent; fat 20

to 25 percent; and salt, 4.8 percent.

Dorset

Dorset cheese, known also as Dorset Blue, Blue Vinny, and Blue Veiny,

is one of the hard, blue-veined cheeses made in England; however, it is
40 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

not SO well known as Stilton and Wensleydale, other English blue-veined

cheeses. The name Dorset refers to the County Dorset in England where

the cheese was first made at least 200 years ago, and the other names refer to

the blue mold that develops in the open-textured curd during the curing

process. The cheese is circular and flat and weighs from 14 to 16 pounds.

It usually is hard, dry, and crumbly, with a sharp and frequently acid

flavor; it is white with blue veining throughout.

Dorset is made from partly skimmed cow's milk. The milk, often

highly acid, is warmed to a temperature of 80° F. and curdled with rennet.

When the curd is very firm, it is cut into cubes and stirred for several

minutes, after which it settles in the whey; then it is stirred again. When

the curd is sufficiently acid and firm, the whey is drained off and the curd

collected in cloths. The curd, in the cloths, is either hung up or placed

on a draining rack to drain further. It is kept warm, and inverted and

repacked occasionally as it drains. When it has acquired the desired

texture, it is broken up and salted at the rate of about S^/» ounces of salt

to 10 pounds of curd. Then it is placed in forms and pressed overnight,

lightly at first and later with gradually increasing pressure. The following

morning the cheese is inverted, and it is pressed another day with a pressure

of 300 pounds. The cheeses may be bandaged before they are placed

in the curing room.

Analysis: Moisture, 41.5 percent; fat, 8.8 to 27.6 percent; and salt, 2.9

percent.

Dotter

Dotter cheese is said to have been made in Nuremberg, Germany, by

mixing egg yolk with skim milk and then making this mixture into cheese

in the usual way.

Dry

Dry cheese, known also as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in small

dairies in the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is

made for home consumption and only in winter when the milk cannot be

used profitably for other purposes. The method is simple. Skim milk is

put into a large kettle, heated, and kept warm until it has thickened thoroughly by souring. It is then broken up and cooked until it is quite firm.

A small quantity of salt is added, and sometimes some caraway seed, and the

curd is then put into forms of various sizes. It is placed in a drying room

to dry until it becomes very hard; it is then ready to eat.

Duel

Duel cheese is a soft, cured, cow's milk cheese made in Austria. It is 2

inches square and 1 inch thick.

Dunlop

Dunlop, a rich, white, pressed cheese made in Scotland, formerly was

considered the national cheese of Scotland. However, it has been largely

superseded by Cheddar which it resembles.

Analysis: Moisture, 38 percent; fat, 32 percent; and protein, 26 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 41

Edam

Edam cheese was first made in the vicinity of Edam in the Province of

North Holland, Netherlands. It is known in the Netherlands by various

local names, such as ManboUen, Katzenkopf, and Tete de Maure. Like

Gouda, it is a semisoft to hard, sweet-curd cheese made from cow's milk.

Originally it was made from whole milk but now the fat content of the

milk is usually reduced to about 2.5 percent. When the cheese is made for

export, the fat content is indicated on the label, according to Government specifications. Edam is made also in the United States.

Edam has a pleasingly mild, clean, sometimes salty, flavor and a rather

firm and crumbly body, free of holes and openings. It usually is shaped

like a flattened ball, but in the United States it is made also in a loaf shape.

The cheeses usually weigh from SJ/g to AYi pounds but sometimes weigh as

much as 14 pounds. In the United States, they sometimes weigh only

about % to 1 pound.

High-quality milk should be used in making Edam; if the milk is pasteurized, as is common in the United States, lactic starter is added. Color

may be added and the milk is set with rennet extract. About 15 minutes

later the curd is cut into %-inch cubes, then stirred and heated to a temperature of 90° to 95 "" F. When the curd is sufficiently firm, part of the

whey is drained off. When enough whey has drained so that the curd is

exposed, the curd is pushed to the side of the vat and more whey pressed

out. The curd is stirred and may be salted. The temperature of the curd

should be at least 88° when it is put into the molds for pressing.

Special pressing molds, preferably metal but sometimes hardwood and

lined with cheesecloth, are used. Each has a round lower section about

6 inches deep and 6 inches in diameter, with holes in the bottom for drainage, and a round cover. In the United States the cheese sometimes is

pressed in rectangular loaf-shaped molds.

The molds are filled with curd, covered, and then pressed for about 30

minutes with a pressure of 20 to 30 pounds. Then the cheeses are removed

from the molds and dipped in warm whey (at a temperature of 125° to

130° F.). The rough edges of curd are trimmed off, and the cheeses are

bandaged and again pressed for 6 to 12 hours with a pressure of 60 to 120

pounds.

The cheeses then are rubbed with fine salt and placed in salt in special

salting molds that are the same shape as the pressing molds but have no

covers. Salting is continued for 5 or 6 days, and the cheeses are turned

daily. In the United States, and less commonly in the Netherlands, the

cheeses are salted by immersion in a salting bath for about a week; however,

dry salting is preferable as it aids in producing a smooth rind.

The cheeses are scrubbed with a brush in warm water or whey, wiped

dry, and then cured on shelves at a temperature of 50° to 60° F. and a

relative humidity of 80 to 90 percent. They are piled in layers on the

shelves to aid in flattening the top and bottom surfaces. They are washed,

dried, and turned daily for a week or two, then less frequently. In some

factories they are washed in a churn-like machine, and the surfaces may

be smoothed by rotating the cheeses in a machine that regçmbles a lathe.
42 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

In the Netherlands, cheese for export is colored red, rubbed with oil,

and wrapped in some transparent material; the red coating is an identifying characteristic of Edam cheese. However, cheese made for consumption

within that country is rubbed with oil but not colored.

In the United States, Edam cheese is covered with red paraffin or some

other tightly adhering red coating.

The cheeses are packed usually 8 to 12 in a box; for export to warm

climates they may be sealed in tins. Between 8 and 9 pounds of cured

cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis : Moisture, not more than 45 percent (usually 35 to 38 percent) ;

fat, 26.5 to 29.5 percent (not less than.40 percent in the solids) ; protein,

27 to 29 percent; and salt, 1.6 to 2 percent.

Egg

Egg cheese, first made in the Province of Nyland, Finland, is made from

fresh milk to which fresh eggs are added at the rate of 2 to 12 eggs for

each 6 quarts of milk. Usually the eggs and starter are mixed and then

added to the milk, but sometimes only half the eggs are added with the

starter and the other half are added after the whey has drained from the

curd. Best results are obtained with a cream starter.

Emiliano

Emiliano, a very hard cheese of the Italian Grana or Parmesan type, is

the same as Reggiano, according to some authorities. The cheese is

cylindrical and the sides may be either straight or slightly convex. It is

12 to 16 inches in diameter, 6 to 8/2 inches thick, and weighs frona 44 to

66 pounds. The surface is colored dark and is oiled; the interior is light

yellow. The flavor varies from mild to rather sharp, and the texture is

granular. Usually there are no eyes, but some cheeses have a few small

eyes, unevenly distributed. The curing period usually is about a year, but

it may be as long as 20 months for cheese made in the winter and 2 years

for cheese made in the spring. The aged cheese is used for grating. (See

Parmesan.) r. n^ o

Analysis: Moisture, 30 to 35 percent at 1 year; 20 to 30 percent at 2

years; fat in the solids, 32 to 39 percent.

Engadine

Engadine cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons, Switzerland, from

cow's whole milk. - 012 <2A

Analysis: Moisture, 47.30 percent; fat, 11.40 percent; and protem, 36.34

percent.

English Dairy

English Dairy cheese is a very hard cheese that is made in the same

general way as Cheddar except that it is cooked much longer. It was made

some years ago, mostly in the United States, and was used m cookmg.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 43

Époisse

Époisse is a soft cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the

Department of Cote-d'Or, France.

Eriwani

Eriwani cheese, also known by different local names such at Karab,

Tali, Kurini, Elisavetpolen, and Kasach, is made from fresh ewe's milk,

principally in the Caucasus. The milk is set at about 95^ F. with enough

rennet to coagulate it in 20 minutes. The curd is broken up, put into a

sack to drain, and then pressed with stones until the whey stops running.

The cheese is salted in brine.

Ervy

Ervy, a soft cheese resembling Camembert, is named for the village of

Ervy in the Department of Aube, France, where it is made. It is about

7 inches in diameter and 25/2 inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds.

Farm

Farm cheese as originally made on farms in France is essentially the

same as Cottage cheese. It is known by several different names, including

Fromage à la Pie, Mou, Maigre, and Ferme. The making process is

simple. Whole or skim milk is curdled by souring, and the whey is poured

off. Sometimes the curd is enclosed in cloth on which a board and weight

are placed, to hasten drainage. The curd is kneaded to further expel whey.

Then salt and sometimes sweet cream are mixed with the curd, and it is

molded into various .sizes and shapes. The cheese usually is consumed

locally, either while fresh or after curing.

In the United States, Farm cheese, which is known also as Farmer cheese

and Pressed cheese and, erroneously, as Cream cheese, is a firm, pressed

cheese made on farms. There is considerable variation in the cheese because

the method of making differs in different localities and may not be uniform

on all farms in one locality. Usually whole milk is used, but sometimes the

milk is partly skimmed. Starter (which may be buttermilk of good flavor)

is added to the milk at room temperature or at a temperature as high as

86° F. Rennet may be added, or the milk may be coagulated by souring.

The coagulation period may be as long as 5 or 6 hours, or overnight. The

curd is cut into coarse particles and stirred, and it may be heated to about

90°. The whey is drained off and the curd is stirred and salted. Then the

curd is placed in bags or in cloth-lined metal hoops and pressed overnight.

The next morning the cheese is removed from the bag or hoop and wrapped

in parchment if it is to be eaten without much curing. If it is to be cured,

the pressed cheese is dried and then coated by dipping in hot paraffin. It is

cured in a moist cellar at a temperature not over 60°. The cheese should

have a clean, mild flavor and should slice without crumbling. The yield is

about 10 pounds per 100 pounds of whole milk and about 9 pounds per

100 pounds of partly-skimmed milk.
44 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Feta

Feta, a white, so-called pickled cheese, is the principal soft cheese made

by the shepherds in the mountainous region near Athens, Greece. It usually

is made from ewe's milk but is sometimes made from goat's milk.

The fresh milk is poured into large containers, heated to about 95° F.,

and rennet is added. When firm, the curd is cut or broken. It is dipped

into bottomless wooden forms—about 4 feet long, 2^/2 feet wide, and 8 inches

deep—that have been placed on a coarse cloth on a drain table or rack.

When the curd is sufficiently firm, it is cut into blocks and dry salt is rubbed

on the surface. Later the same day the blocks are turned and salted again.

The next morning the blocks are cut into slices about an inch thick, and

these are salted and then packed either in paraffined wooden kegs that hold

from 100 to 170 pounds, or in smaller tin containers. The cheese is ready

to eat in about a month.

When made on a smaller scale, the curd may be dipped into a cloth bag

after the milk coagulates. The bag is twisted and worked to expel most

of the whey from the curd and then hung up to drain for a few hours or

overnight. The next morning the curd is taken out of the bag and cut into

slices about an inch thick. The slices are sprinkled liberally with dry salt.

About 24 hours later the curd is packed in wooden kegs. The cheese is

ready to eatin 4 or 5 days.

Filled

Filled cheese is made from milk or skim milk to which foreign fat has been

added. The foreign fat is added either by stirring it vigorously into the milk

and using enough rennet to coagulate the milk quickly, or by incorporating

the fat into the milk by homogenization. The cheese then is made in the

usual manner. Filled cheese, whether made in the United States or imported, is a taxable product, subject to various Federal and State laws

that define the conditions under which it can be manufactured and sold.

Fiore Sardo

Fiore Sardo, a hard, Italian cheese made from ewe's milk, is used as a

table cheese when immature and as a condiment when fully cured. (See

Sardo. )

Fl0tost

F10tost (F10 in Norwegian indicates cream) is a boiled-whey cheese made

in Norway. It is like Mysost except that it contains more fat—usually not

less than 20 percent of fat in the solids. (See Mysost.)

Flower

Flower cheese is a soft, cured cheese made in England from cow's whole

milk. It contains the petals of various kinds of flowers, such as roses or

marigolds, which accounts for its name.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 45

Foggiano

Foggiano cheese, which resembles Cotronese and Moliterno, is made from

ewe's milk in Apulia, Italy.

Fontina

Fontina is a cooked-curd, whole-milk, semisoft to hard, slightly yellow

cheese with a delicate, nutty flavor and a pleasing aroma. It is made from

ewe's milk in the Aosta Valley in Piedmont, Italy (it is said to be made also

from cow's milk in summer), and from cow's milk in the United States. It

is round and flat, like a Daisy (Cheddar), and weighs between 25 and 75

pounds—^usually 33 to 44 pounds. A smaller style is called Midget Fontina.

According to Italian authorities, Fontina is similar to Montasio and Bitto,

and it is said to be similar also to Battelmatt.

Fontina is made by a method similar to that used in making Gruyere.

Color may be added to the milk, which is set with either rennet paste or

rennet extract. The cheese is salted in brine and cured for at least 2

months. It may have a few small, round eyes. The surface may be oiled.

When partly cured, it is used as a table cheese (it is frequently melted) ;

when fully cured^ it is hard and is used for grating.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 42 percent (usually 38 percent) ; fat,

28 to 31.5 percent (not less than 50 percent in the solids).

Forez

Forez cheese, sometimes called d'Ambert, is made in central France. It is

cylindrical in shape, about 10 inches in diameter and 6 inches thick. The

making process is said to be very crude, and the cheese is cured in a very

unusual way. It is placed on the floor of a cellar and covered with dirt,

over which water is permitted to trickle. Frequently the cheese is spoiled

by the undesirable molds and bacteria that grow on it. Good quality Forez

is said to resemble Roquefort in flavor.

Formagelle

Formagelle is a small, soft cheese made from ewe's or goat's milk in the

mountains of northern Italy. It is made only in the spring or autumn; it

may or may not be salted; and it is eaten while fresh.

Formaggi di Pasta Filata

Formaggi di Pasta Filata (cheese from plastic curd) refers to a group of

Italian cheeses that are made by curdling the milk with rennet, warming

and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes

and then kneeding and shaping it while it is hot and plastic. This unusual

manipulation of the curd while it is being drawn and shaped results in

cheese that is free of holes or pockets of air and whey and that keeps well

even in warm climates. Some plastic-curd cheeses are eaten as table cheese
46 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

when fresh or after curing only a few months; others are used for grating

after long curing which makes them hard and sharp in flavor.

Among the best-known plastic-curd cheeses are : Provolone, Gaciocavallo,

MoHterno, Mozzarella, Provatura, and Scamorze. Others are Katschkawalj

and Kaskaval, which are made in the Balkans; Oschtjepek and Parenica,

made in Slovakia; and Panedda, made in Sardinia. Many of these are

known locally by other names. A description of most of the different kinds

is given under its specific name.

Formaggini

Formaggini (small cheese) is a descriptive term applied to several kinds

of small, Italian cheeses.

Formaggini di Lecco is a small, cylindrical, dessert cheese that is made in

the vicinity of Lecco, in Lombardy, from cow's milk to which some goat's

milk may be added. It may be eaten while fresh and sweet or at any stage

of ripening. When fully cured, it is very piquant. It is made by a method

similar to that used in making other soft cheeses. Rennet is added to the

warmed milk, which is then held at a temperature of 55° F. for 24 hours.

Then, with as little breaking of the curd as possible, the whey is drained

off; this takes 3 or 4 hours. Salt is added to the curd, sometimes pepper,

sugar, and cinnamon, and occasionally oil and vinegar. The curd is put

into cylindrical molds about 1^ inches in diameter and 2 inches deep.

Each cheese weighs about 2 ounces.

Formaggini di Montpellier is another soft, Italian cheese. It is made by

curdling milk with a rennet paste containing white wine, thistle blossoms,

and flavoring materials.

Fresa

Fresa is a mild, sweet, soft, cooked cheese made in Sardinia from cow's

milk. (See Cooked.)

Fribourg

Fribourg, made originally in Switzerland and now also in the Po valley

in Italy, is a hard cheese made by a method similar to that used in making

Swiss. It is a cooked-curd cheese, the curd being heated to 120° F. or

slightly higher. According to some authorities Fribourg is the same as

Spalen (or Sbrinz). (See Spalen.)

Friesian Clove

Friesian Clove is a spiced cheese made in the Netherlands from cow's

milk that may be partly skimmed. Cloves are added to the curd before it is

hooped. The cheeses are round and flat and weigh between 20 and 40

pounds. (See Spiced cheese.)

The cheese is similar in analysis to Leyden, the moisture and fat content

depending on the extent to which the milk is skimmed. (See Leyden.)
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 47

Fromage à la Crème

Fromage à la Crème (French Cream Cheese) is a soft, rich cheese that

is consumed without ripening. Rennet is added to fresh whole milk, or

milk with cream added, and it is coagulated at a temperature of 70° F.

The coagulated curd is held for 20 to 24 hours; then the free whey is removed, and the curd is cut into slices and placed in a sieve to drain. After

draining is completed, the curd is kneaded to a paste. More cream may

be added, then seasoning, and the curd is placed in wicker molds. The

cheese is meant to be eaten while it is fresh; however, it will keep for

several days under refrigeration.

Fromage Fort

Fromage Fort, which is one of several French cooked cheeses, is made in

the Department of Ain. Well drained, skim-milk curd is melted, and the

melted mass is put into a cloth and pressed. It is then buried in dry ashes

to remove as much whey as possible. Then the mass is grated fine and,

after ripening for 8 to 10 days, milk, butter, salt, pepper, wine, etc., are

added, and the mixture is ripened further.

Cooked cheeses are made by similar but slightly different methods in

other parts of France, and they are known by any one of several names.

Canquillote, sometimes spelled Cancoillotte and also called Fromagère, is

a cheese of this kind that is made in eastern France, as is also Fondue, made

in Lorraine. (See Canquillote.)

Frühstück

Frühstück is a small, Limburger-type cheese made in Germany from

whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It usually is cylindrical in shape

and from 2^/2 to 3 inches in diameter. It may be eaten without much

curing, or it may be cured. During the curing process (which is similar to

Romadur), yeasts and molds grow first on the surface of the cheese, followed by the so-called red cheese bacteria and formation of a surface smear.

The cheese is wrapped in tinfoil or parchment. It may be wrapped when

it is partly cured, in which case curing is completed at a temperature of

42° to 45° F. This type of cheese is referred to by various names, such

as breakfast, dessert, appetite, and delicate cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 60 percent; fat, 17 to 34 percent; and protein,

15 to 25 percent.

Gaiskäsli

Gaiskäsli is a soft cheese made from goat's milk in Germany and Switzerland. The milk is set with enough rennet to coagulate it in about 40

minutes. The curd is then broken up, stirred, and dipped into cylindrical

molds about 3 inches in diameter. Each mold is filled with enough curd

to make a cheese I/2 or 2 inches thick that weighs about half a pound.

The molds are set on mats which allow the whey to drain freely, and salt is

260172*»—53 4
48 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

sprinkled on the surface of the cheeses. After 2 days the cheeses are turned

and salted on the other surface. The cheese ripens in about 3 weeks and

is said to have a very pleasing flavor.

Gammelost

Gammelost, made from sour skim milk in Norway (principally in the

counties of Hardanger and Sogn), is a semisoft, blue-mold, ripened table

cheese, with a rather sharp, aromatic flavor. The principal ripening molds

are species of Mucor, Rhizopus, and Pénicillium. The rind is brownish

and the interior is brownish-yellow with a blue-green tint; the color darkens

with age. The cheese is round and flat, usually about 6 inches in diameter,

and from 5 to 6 inches thick. It weighs usually between 6 and 9 pounds,

although some cheeses may weigh more than 25 pounds. The cheese is

made by one method in Hardanger and by a slightly different method in

Sogn.

In the Hardanger method, about 0.5 percent of lactic starter is added

to skim milk and, after souring for a day or two at 66"" F., it is put into a

vat and warmed slowly to 145°. After about 30 minutes at that temperature, the curd is dipped into cloth bags and pressed heavily. After pressing, the curd is removed from the bags, broken up, and packed in clothlined forms which then are covered and placed in boiling whey for 3/2

hours. This practically sterilizes the cheese and changes its texture. The

next day the cheese is removed from the forms and put in a warm place

for a day or two to dry, after which it is pierced with metal needles that

have been inoculated with a mold—Pénicillium roquejorti, or a related

species—that develops a greenish-blue mold throughout the cheese. It is

then placed on shelves in a curing room which is maintained at a temperature of 50° to 55° and a relative humidity of 90 percent. A Mucor, which

is propagated by handrubbing the surface with mycelium from older cheeses,

develops on the surface of the cheese. The cheese is inverted daily or at

least every other day, and rubbed or cleaned if necessary. The curing

period is about 4 weeks or somewhat longer.

In the Sogn method, I/2 to 2 percent of starter is added to the skim

milk, and it is soured at a temperature of 72° to 75° F.; on the second day,

the milk may be transferred to the cheese vat where souring is completed

at a temperature of 77°. When the milk has reached the desired stage of

souring (a later stage than in the Hardanger method), it is heated slowly

to the boiling point. The whey is removed, and the curd is heated to

about 195°, then placed in forms to drain. The forms are covered with

cloths and kept in a warm place. After the whey has drained off, the curd

is removed from the forms, crumbled fine, inoculated with mold, and

repressed. The next day the cheeses are removed from the forms, dried

in a warm place for 4 or 5 days, and then taken to the curing room. The

curing process is the same as in the Hardanger method.

In both methods, after the cheese is pardy cured, it may be put in chests

lined with straw that has been treated with heated juniper extract. The

yield of cured cheese is between 4 and 5/2 pounds per 100 pounds of skim

milk.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 49

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 52 percent (usually 46 to 52 percent) ;

fat, 0.5 to 1.0 percent; protein, 45 to 50 percent; ash, 2.5 percent; and salt

(in the ash), 1 percent.

Gautrias

Gautrias cheese, which resembles Port du Salut, is made in the Department of Mayenne, France. The cheese is cylindrical in shape, and each

cheese weighs about 5 pounds. (See Port du Salut.)

Gavot

Gavot cheese is made from cow's, ewe's, or goat's milk in the Department

of Hautes-Alpes, France.

Geheimrath

Geheimrath, which is made in small quantities in the Netherlands, is a

deep yellow cheese that resembles a small Gouda and is made by a similar

method. (See Gouda.)

Géromé

Géromé, also known as Gérardmer, is a soft cheese made in the Vosges

mountain region of France, and in Switzerland. It derives its name from

Gérardmer, a village in the region where it has been made for a century

or more.

Cow's milk is used in making Géromé, but at times a little goat's milk

is added. Fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature between 80° and

90° F. About half an hour later, the curd is cut into rather large cubes;

an hour after cutting, the whey is dipped off. Sometimes anise is added

to the curd at this time, then the curd is put into cylindrical hoops of wood

or tin. The hoops vary in size but usually are 6 or 7 inches in diameter, and

they are piled one on another to a height of 14 or 15 inches. The cheeses

are turned after 6 hours and again after 12 hours, then twice daily for the

next 2 or 3 days, the hoops being changed each time. The temperature

of the room should be between 60° and 70° during this process. After

hooping, the cheeses are salted. The quantity of salt used is from 3 to 3.5

percent of the weight of the cheese.

Then the cheeses are dried in a well ventilated room for several days.

When dry, they are transferred to the curing cellar, where they are turned

frequently and washed with warm salty water to keep the surface free of

mold. They are cured for 6 weeks to 4 months, depending on their size;

they range in weight from 8 ounces to 5 pounds or more. The cured cheese

often has a greenish tint.

Gex

Gex, a hard, cow's-milk cheese, is named for the town of Gex in the

Department of Ain, France, where it was first made more than a hundred

years ago. Production has been confined largely to this region, but some Gex

is made in the Departments of Jura and Isère, in southeastern France. It is
50 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

one of the group of blue-mold cheeses known in France as Bleu cheeses or

Fromage Persillé; the group includes Sassenage, Septmoncel, and several

others resembling Roquefort.

Rennet is added to the fresh milk as soon as possible after milking. After

a coagulation period of I/2 to 2 hours, the curd is broken up and stirred

until it is in a semiliquid condition. After about 10 minutes, during which

time the curd settles to the bottom of the vat, the whey is drained off. Then

the curd is worked by hand, salted slightly, and put into hoops about 12

inches in diameter and 5 inches deep. In about an hour the cheeses are

turned, and a disk and weight are placed on them. Turning is repeated 3 or

4 times a day; the hoops are removed at the end of the first day. The

cheeses are salted and then taken to the curing room where a pénicillium

mold, which soon develops on them, gives them a bluish appearance. (The

mold is not introduced into the interior of the cheese while it is being made,

as is done with Roquefort.) The curing process requires from 3 to 4 months

and is completed in cellars or natural caves. A cured cheese weighs between

14 and 15 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 32 percent; fat, 30 percent; and protein, 30 percent.

Gislev

Gislev is a hard cheese made in Denmark from cow's milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 49.2 percent; fat, 3 percent; and protein, 41.5 precent.

Gjetost

Gjetost is a Norwegian boiled-whey cheese. The "Gje-" indicates that it

is a goat's-milk product. However, it is commonly made from the whey

obtained when cheese is made from a mixture of cow's milk and not less

than 10 percent of goat's milk. When cheese is made from goat's milk only

and the whey so obtained is made into boiled-whey cheese, it is called ekte

(genuine) Gjetost, or Geitmysost.

The whey is stirred and condensed by heating to about one-fourth its

original volume, when it will have the consistency of heavy cream. The

cheese is golden brown; its principal constituent is lactose. Usually a

cheese weighs about 9 pounds, but cheeses weighing 1 pound and /a pound

are also made. (See Mysost.)

Analysis: Moisture, 13 percent; fatin the solids, 33 percent.

Gloucester

Gloucester is a hard cheese made in England in the county of Gloucester,

for which it is named. Gloucester and Derby are said to be almost identical

and are made in practically the same way. Single Gloucesters, made

originally in farm dairies, are 16 inches in diameter, between 2 and 3 inches

thick, and weigh about 15 pounds. Double Gloucesters, which have become relatively uncommon, are also 16 inches in diameter, but they are

between 4 and 5 inches thick and weigh about 24 pounds. When the

cheese is about a month old it may be colored with red or brown dye.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 51

The surface of an uncolored cheese is clear yellow and is said to have

well-developed blue mold on the sides. The cheese is very firm, the texture

is smooth, close, and waxy, and the flavor is mild and rich. (See Derby.)

Analysis: Moisture, 32.3 to 36 percent; fat, 29 to 33 percent; protein,

27.6 to 28.1 percent; and salt, 2 to 2.5 percent.

Glumse

Glumse, which resembles Cottage cheese^ is made in western Prussia.

Skim milk, curdled bysouring, is heated until firm either by heating slowly

to about 105° F., which causes the curd to contract and expel whey, or by

pouring hot water into the sour, coagulated milk. A perforated ladle or

dipper is used to remove the curd, and it is drained in a sieve. Milk or

cream is mixed with the curd before it is eaten.

Goat's- Milk

Goat's-milk cheeses of many kinds are made by using goat's milk instead

of cow's milk and making the cheese in the usual way. Also, cheese often

is made from a mixture of goat's milk and either cow's milk, or ewe's milk,

or both. In many instances, goat's-milk cheese is not identified by any

particular name to distinguish it from cow's milk cheese. However, in

France, Chevret or Ghevrotin designate goat's-milk cheese, and Gratairon,

Lamothe, and Poitiers are local names for cheeses made from goat's milk.

In Italy^ Formaggio di Gapra designates goat's-milk cheese, and the adjective "caprino" is used to indicate a product made from goat's milk.

In German-speaking countries, Ziegenkäse or Gaiskäsli designate goat's-milk

cheese. However, in certain parts of Germany and in Switzerland, Gaiskäsli

is the name of a particular soft cheese made from goat's milk. (See

Gaiskäsli.)

Gomost

Gomost is a whole-milk Norwegian cheese, made usually from cow's

milk but also at times from goat's milk. The milk is curdled with a small

quantity of rennet and is condensed by heating until it has a butter-like

consistency. The method for making Gomost is very much like the method

for making Mysost. (See Mysost.)

Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola, known also as Stracchino di Gorgonzola, is the principal

blue-green veined cheese of Italy. It is said to have been made in the

Po Valley since 879 A. D. It is named for the village of Gorgonzola, near

Milan, but very little is made there now. It is made chiefly in Lombardy,

where its manufacture is an important industry, and in Piedmont. It

formerly was made during September and October, because winter conditions are favorable for curing; however^ curing caves have been built

in cliffs in the Alps, especially near Lecco^ and it is now made throughout

the year. It is made also in numerous other countries; in the United

States it is made mostly in Wisconsin and Michigan.
52 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

The interior of the cheese is mottled with blue-green veins like those

in Roquefort. In Italy the mold is called Pénicillium glaucum rather than

P. Toqueforti—the name used in the United States—^but it is the same

mold, at least in some instances. The surface of the cheese formerly was

protected by covering it with a reddish coat resembling clay, which is

prepared from barite or brick dust, lard or tallow, and coloring matter.

Now, however, tinfoil and stout containers are used. The cheeses, which

are cylindrical and flat, are from 8/2 to 11 inches in diameter and from

6/2 to 8 inches thick, and weigh between 14 and 17 pounds.

Evening milk is warmed to 86'' F., or sometimes 90°, and enough rennet

added to coagulate it in 15 to 20 minutes. The curd is cut slowly, allowed to

settle, collected in a cloth, and hung up to drain overnight in a room in

which the temperature is between 60° and 68°. Curd is prepared similarly

from morning milk and is drained but not cooled. Expandable wooden

hoops, 8 to 12 inches in diameter and IO/2 to 12 inches deep, are lined with

cloth and placed on rye straw or drain mats on a drain table. The two lots

of curd are cut into rather large slices or portions, and mold powder is

sprinkled in as the portions are placed alternately in the hoops. The warm

(morning) curd is placed mainly in the bottom and at the periphery and

piled up on top, with the cool (evening) curd between. This distribution

of the curd is considered a critical part of the making process. It aids in

developing mechanical openings in the interior of the cheese and in binding

the surface and making it smooth. The piled-up curd is covered with the

edges of the cloth lining, and the cheese is turned. It is repressed and

turned every 2 hours at first and less frequently thereafter for a day. Then

the cloth is removed and the cheese is replaced in the hoops, left on the straw

or drain mat, and turned twice daily for several days. It is salted with dry

salt, heavily at first and lightly later, a total of 8 to 12 times in from 1 to 3

weeks. The temperature of the room is held at 50° or a little higher.

The cheese is dried and initial curing takes place in a room in which the

temperature is between 52° and 60° F., and the relative humidity is 75

to 80 percent. During this period—20 to 30 days—the cheese is turned

and rubbed by hand every other day and kept clean. It is scraped with a

knife occasionally.

The cheese then is moved to a room in which the temperature is from

48° to 50° F., and the relative humidity 85 to 90 percent, where the second

stage of curing takes place. This period lasts 2 months. If the cheese was

not punched earlier, it is punched at this stage (see Roquefort).

Final curing takes place in a room in which the temperature is from

40° to 43° F., and the relative humidity is even higher than in the other

curing rooms. The entire curing period is at least 90 days, frequently is

6 months, and may be a year.

The yield is 13 to 15 pounds of fresh cheese, or 10 to 12 pounds of cured

cheese, per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 42 percent (usually 35 to 38 percent) ;

fat, 31 to 33 percent'(not less than 50 percent of the solids) ; protein, 24 to

26 percent; and salt, 3 to 4 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 53

Gouda

Gouda, first made in the vicinity of Gouda in the Province of South

Holland, Netherlands, is a semisoft to hard, sweet-curd cheese similar to

Edam except that it contains more fat. It is made from whole or partly

skimmed cow's milk, but skimmed less than milk used in making Edam.

Gouda usually is shaped like a flattened sphere and pressed in molds with

rounded ends. The molds vary in size but usually are nearly 14 inches in

diameter and 4^ to 5 inches deep. The cheeses usually weigh between

10 and 25 pounds but may weigh as little as 6 or as much as 50 pounds.

Gouda is made also in a loaf weighing about 8 pounds. A so-called "baby

Gouda" is oval, weighs a pound or slightly less, may be coated with red

wax, and wrapped in a cellophane-type wrapper. The red surface is not

necessarily an identifying characteristic, however, as it is of domestic and

imported Edam.

Gouda is made in much the same way as Edam. (See Edam.) Some

slight modifications in the details of manufacture are mentioned here.

Although the milk may be set at any temperature between 84° and 90° F.,

it usually is set at 90°. After the curd is cut, the whey is drained ofF,

heated, and poured back into the vat. This procedure is repeated once or

twice, in order to increase the temperature of the curd to between 100° and

106°. Other factors being equal, cheese made from curd heated to the

higher temperatures (within this range) will have a firmer body, will cure

more slowly, and will have better keeping quality. Some salt is added to

the curd before it is put into the hoops (molds) for pressing. Salting is

usually completed by immersing the cheese in a salt solution; however, it

may be completed in the curing room by rubbing dry salt on the cheese

daily for 7 to 10 days. The cheese cures in 2 to 3 months, but it improves

in flavor if itis cured for 5 to 6 months.

About 125/2 pounds of uncured cheese can be made from 100 pounds of

whole milk, and about 8 pounds of cured cheese from 100 pounds of milk

containing from 3 to 3.5 percent of fat.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 45 percent (usually 36 to 43.5 percent) ; fat, 29 to 30.5 percent (not less than 46 percent in the solids) ;

protein, 25 to 26 percent; and salt, 1.5 to 2 percent.

Gournay

Gournay, a soft cheese of the fresh Neufchatel type, is named for the

village of Gournay in the Department of Seine-Inférieure, France, where

it is made. It is similar to the Gream cheese made in the United States.

It usually is round and flat, about 3 inches in diameter and % inch thick,

and weighs about 4 ounces. However, it is made also in 2% inch squares

that are 34 inch thick. Gournay contains between 1 and 2 percent of salt,

and usually is wrapped in tinfoil. A similar cheese, Gournay fleuri, is

ripened to some extent with a surface mold—Pénicillium candidum—

which gives it the flavor of Camembert.
54 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Goya

Goya cheese, manufactured in the Province of Corrientes in Argentina,

resembles medium-cured Asiago. Either whole or partly skimmed milk

is heated to a temperature between 75^ and 85° F., and enough rennet is

added to coagulate it in 15 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut and put in sacks

to drain, after which it is pressed in molds and then salted.

Grana

Grana refers to a group of Italian cheeses with the following special

characteristics: Granular body and texture (hence the name Grana) ; sharp

flavor (they are widely known for intensity and exquisiteness of flavor) ;

hardness (they are among the most suitable for grating) ; very small eyes;

good keeping quality, even in hot climates; and excellent shipping properties

(they require no careful packaging).

Grana-type cheeses are said to have been made in the Po Valley as

long ago as 1200 A. D., at which time that was the most important cheesemaking center in Europe. According to Italian authorities, there are two

main types of Grana cheeses : ( 1 ) Grana Lombardo, which is made largely

in the Province of Lombardy (north of the Po) ; and (2) Grana Reggiano,

which is made largely in Reggio, in the Province of Emilia (south of the

Po). There are numerous subvarieties of each type, named usually for

the place of manufacture. Lodigiano (named for Lodi) is similar to Lombardo; Emiliano (for Emilia) and Parmigiano (for Parma) are similar to

Reggiano, and there are others. The subvarieties differ principally in

details of manufacture (acidity of the milk, cutting the curd, cooking temperature, curing period, etc.), and in shape and size.

Considerable quantities of both types of Grana cheeses are exported from

Italy, usually under the name Parmesan (the common name outside of

Italy, and sometimes in Italy, for these cheeses). Both types are imported

into the United States as Parmesan, and Grana Reggiano is also imported

as Reggiano Parmesan. Both types are made in the United States and

may be known by either name ( Parmesan or Reggiano ).

A more complete description of each of these cheeses is given under

its specific name.

Granular or Stirred-Curd

Granular or Stirred-curd cheese, which is made in considerable quantities in the United States, is similar to Cheddar and Colby. It may be

made from either raw or pasteurized milk. The raw-milk cheese must be

cured for at least 60 days unless it is to be used in manufacturing.

This cheese is made in the same way as Cheddar, except that (as in making

Colby) the curd is not matted and milled. However, water is not added

to the curd while it is being stirred to cool it, as is done in making Colby.

After the curd has been cut, stirred, and heated (as in the Cheddar

process), some of the whey is drained on and the curd is stirred and

drained alternately, or stirred continually, until it is dry enough to salt.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 55

After salting, with continual stirring, the curd finally is placed in hoops

and pressed like Cheddar. (See Cheddar.)

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 39 percent (usually 37 percent);

fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent; and salt, 1.5 to 1.8 percent.

Grated

Grated cheese is prepared by grinding hard, dry, low-fat, well-aged

natural cheese to a powder. Italian cheeses of the Parmesan type are

usually used; also such cheeses as Asiago old, dry Jack, Romano, Sapsago

(Schabziger), and Sbrinz. The cheese should be cured for at least 6

months before it is grated. After it is grated, it may be dried further on

trays in a current of hot, dry air; then it is packed in moisture-and-air-proof

containers.

Some manufacturers prepare a so-called "grated" cheese by adding

nonfat dry milk solids and cheese color to dry (usually low-fat) Americantype cheese, grinding the mixture, and then drying it. This product,

however, usually lacks full flavor.

The Bureau of Dairy Industry has developed a method for dehydrating

natural American Cheddar cheese of normal fat content without loss of fat.

The cheese is first grated and partly dried immediately in moving air at

room temperature, which seals up the fat in numerous casehardened particles of curd; then it is dried in a tunnel or chamber drier with a gradual

increase in temperature and circulation of air. The dried cheese can be

powdered for use as grated cheese.

Gray

Gray cheese, which is so named because the interior of the cured cheese

is grayish in color, is made in the Tyrol from sour skim milk. When the

milk has curdled, the curd is firmed by moderate heating. It is then dipped

into cheesecloth; the flocculent material at the bottom of the kettle is mixed

carefully and thoroughly with the rest of the curd, in order to insure a

uniform product. The curd is then put under pressure for about 10

minutes, after which it is broken up by hand or in a mill, and salt and

pepper are added. To insure proper ripening, a little grated well-ripened

gray cheese or bread crumbs with the characteristic mold growth are mixed

with the curd, and it is put into forms of various shapes and sizes which are

perforated to facilitate drainage. The cheese is pressed in the forms for

about 24 hours, and then taken to the drying room where the temperature

is maintained at 70° F. The length of the drying period is determined

by the appearance of the cheese. As soon as it has dried sufficiently, it is

taken to the curing cellar. The cured cheese has a pleasant taste.

Gruyère

Gruyère cheese (Greyèrzerkase), also known as Groyer and in some

localities as Vachelin, has been made for more than 200 years. It is named

for the village of Gruyère, in the Canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, which
56 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U, S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

is near the French border. The manufacture of Gruyère cheese is an

important industry in France (especially in the Departments of Daubs

and Jura) and in nearby areas in Switzerland.

Gruyère cheeses are about 20 inches in diameter, from 4 to 4^4 inches

thick^ and weigh between 55 and 110 pounds. Gruyère is made from

cow's whole milk in much the same way as Swiss; however. Gruyère is

smaller, has smaller eyes and a sharper flavor, and usually is cured in a

more humid curing room. There often is an aroma of ammonia in the

curing room, indicating some surface ripening. The cheese is cured for

not less than 90 days.

Analysis: Moisture, 33 to not more than 39 percent; fat, 29 to 33 percent

(usually 50 but not less than 45 percent in the solids) ; protein, 26 to 29

percent; and salt, 2 percent.

Giissing

Güssing is an Austrian cheese that resembles very much the Brick cheese

made in the United States; it is made in practically the same way, except

that skim milk is used. The cheeses weigh between 4 and 8 pounds. (See

Brick.)

Hand

Hand cheese, a small, sour-milk, surface-ripened cheese, is so named

because originally is was molded in final shape by hand, and still is in some

parts of Europe. It is very popular among Germanic peoples and is made

in several countries. There are many local names for Hand cheese, among

which are the following: In Germany—Mainzer Handkäse or Harzkäse,

Alte Kuhkäse, or Berliner Kuhkäse, Ihlefeld, Satz, and Thuringia Caraway

cheese; in Austria—Olmützer Quargeln and Olmützer Bierkäse; and in ^

Russia—Livlander. Some of these are described under their particular

names.

The method of making Hand cheese differs in different localities.

Following is a general description: Buttermilk or lactic starter is added

to skim milk, which is then coagulated at room temperature. The curd

is broken up or cut, stirred, and heated slowly to a temperature of about

120'' F. It is held at this temperature for about 3 hours, and stirred for

the first hour. At the end of the heating period, the curd is put in cloths

or in forms, while the whey drains either with or without pressure. Then

the curd is either mixed thoroughly or ground in a curd mill, and salted.

Sometimes caraway seed is added. The cheeses then are molded by hand,

or pressed in small forms, into the desired shape. They are dried in a

warm room and then placed on shelves in a cool, moist cellar to cure.

The cheeses are kept clean while curing. When surface ripening has

begun, they are wrapped and packed in boxes. They are cured for 6 to

8 weeks at a temperature no higher than 50°. At higher temperatures

they cure too rapidly. Well-ripened Hand cheese has a very sharp,

pungent flavor and aroma; the consumer sometimes must become

accustomed to it before he finds it agreeable.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 57

In the United States^ cheese of this type is made by farm families of

German descent in Pennsylvania and in a few factories in New York,

Wisconsin, and northern Illinois. The curd is prepared in much the same

way as Cottage-cheese curd, either with or without rennet. The drained

curd is salted and either molded by hand or pressed in forms into cakes

2 to 3 inches in diameter and less than an inch thick. The cheeses then are

cured in a cool, moist room. Action of bacteria, yeasts, and molds causes

surface ripening, and a smear usually appears. Regulation of the temperature and humidity in the curing room is essential to control surface

ripening; it is controlled also by frequent rubbing or washing of the cheese.

Queso de mano (Hand cheese) is a sour-milk, cooked-curd, small, round

cheese made in small quantities in Venezuela and some other LatinAmerican countries for local consumption. Uusually it is made from

cow's milk, but it is said to be made also from goat's milk. The cheeses

are 6 or 7 inches in diameter.

Harzkäse

Harzkäse is a type of Hand cheese made in Germany. It usually is

about 2 inches in diameter, from ^ to 54 inch thick, and weighs about

4 ounces. (See Hand cheese.)

Analysis: Moisture, 50 to 56 percent; fat, 1 to 2 percent; protein, 22 to 37

percent; and salt, 4 percent.

Hauskäse

Hauskäse is the German name for a Limburger-type cheese made in

the shape of a disk with a diameter of about 10 inches.

Hay

Hay cheese, also called Fromage de Foin, is a skim-milk cheese made in

the Department of Seine-Inférieure, France. It derives its name from

the fact that it is ripened on freshly cut hay, which imparts a characteristic

aroma to the cheese. In some respects it resembles a poor grade of Livarot.

Itis about 10 inches in diameter and 2 or 3 inches thick.

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. In about

an hour the curd is cut and the whey is removed. The curd is pressed to

remove more whey after which it is pressed by hand into molds. After

draining for about 2 days, it is put in the drying room for about 3 weeks.

Then it is taken to the curing cellar and buried in hay, where it remains for

6 weeks to 3 months. The cheese is then ready for sale; most of it is consumed locally.

Herkimer

Herkimer, which is a Cheddar-type cheese, was made in rather large

quantities in Herkimer County, N. Y., at one time but now is made only

to a limited extent, if at all. There is considerable acid development and
58 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

the cheese is cured for a long time. As no color is added to the milk the

cheese may be nearly white. It has a fairly dry and crumbly texture and

a sharp flavor.

Herrgârdsost

Herrgârdsost (Manor cheese) is very popular in Sweden, where it has

been made since the 1890's. It has a medium firm, pliable body, a mild,

sweet, nutty flavor, and a pleasing aroma. The cured cheese contains eyes

similar to those in Gruyère, that is, they are smaller than those in Swiss

cheese. The cheeses usually are about 15 inches in diameter, 4 to 6 inches

thick, and weigh from 26 to 33 pounds.

Herrgârdsost is made from partly skimmed cow's milk, usually pasteurized.

Lactic starter is added to the milk, and propionic bacteria are added if

the milk does not contain enough to cause normal eye formation. The curd

is heated to a temperature of not more than 111° F. At some factories,

the curd is removed from the whey and pressed in hoops in the conventional

manner. At other factorieSj the milk is set in a long vat with rounded ends,

and after the curd is heated some of the whey is drawn off. Perforated

metal gates are inserted at each end of the vat and pulled toward the

center, thus enclosing the curd in a rectangular area. A press lid is

lowered onto the curd, and the curd is pressed under the remaining whey

with a hydraulic press. Strong pressure is applied for 20 to 30 minutes.

Then the whey is drained off, and the flat, rectangular block of curd is cut

vertically into smaller blocks, one for each cheese. The curd for each

cheese is placed in a round, metal, cloth-lined hoop, and the hoops are

placed one above another in tiers and pressed in a hydraulic press.

The cheeses are salted in brine; from 10 to 14 days later they are dipped in

paraffin or cheese wax. They are cured for 3 to 4 months—the first month

at a temperature of GS"" to 68'' F. and then at 50° to 59°. Between 8/2

and 9 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of partly skimmed milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 39.5 percent; fat, 29 percent (45 percent or slightly

more in the solids) ; protein, 27 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.

Hervé

Hervé is a Limburger-type cheese made in Belgium. The cheeses are

about 6 inches square and 3 inches thick.

Analysis: Moisture, 37.5 percent; fat, 23.9 percent; and protein, 20.9

percent.

Holstein Health

Holstein Health cheese, known locally as Holstein Gesundheitskäse, is a

German cooked cheese made from sour, skim milk. The curdled milk is

heated, the whey drained off, and the curd pressed heavily. Itis then mixed

well and put into a kettle. Cream and salt are added, and it is stirred

while being heated over a fire to a melting temperature, after which it is

put into molds which hold about half a pound.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 59

Holstein Skim-milk

Holstein Skim-milk cheese (German, Holsteiner Magerkäse), or so-called

Buttenkäse, is made principally in the Prussian Province of Schleswig-Holstein and nearby areas. Usually the skim milk contains about 0.75 percent

of fat, and the cheese contains not more than 15 percent of fat in the solids.

When practically all the fat is removed from the milk, the cheese is called

Leather cheese (see p. 66). In some instances as much as 6 percent of

fresh buttermilk is added to the skim milk.

The milk may be pasteurized, lactic starter and cheese color are added,

and rennet is added at a temperature of 80° to 86° F. About 30 minutes

later the curd is cut into rather large pieces and then left for about 5 minutes

to become firmer. Stirring and cutting then are continued for another 30

minutes, until the pieces of curd.are about 54 inch in diameter, and, if

considerable fat was left in the milk, the curd is warmed to 96°. Then the

whey is dipped or drained off, and the curd is collected, stirred, and pressed

somewhat to remove more whey. It is kneaded carefully, and 2¡S/2 to 3

pounds of salt is added per 1,000 pounds of milk. Caraway seed may be

added also. The curd is placed in cylindrical cloth-lined forms, IO5/2 to

12 inches in diameter and depth. The cheeses are pressed for about 12

hours, with gradually increasing pressure until the final pressure is 10 to 12

times the weight of the cheese. They are turned and redressed once or

twice. Then they are removed from the press and are placed in a rather

dry room for 2 or 3 weeks, after which they are cured in a moist room at a

temperature of 50° to 57°. They are cleaned and turned daily while drying

and about twice a week while curing. The cheese is fully cured in 5 to 6

months. Between 7 and 10 pounds of cheese (depending on the fat content

of the milk) is obtained per 100 pounds of milk. The cheeses weigh from

12 to 14 pounds.

Hop

Hop (or Hopfen) is a German cheese that is cured between layers of hops,

which accounts for its name. It is very much like Nieheimer, which is also

packed with hops for curing. In fact, although they are not identical,

Nieheimer is known as Hop cheese in some localities. Likewise, in some

localities Hop cheese is called Krauterkäse, although elsewhere Krauterkäse

is a local name for Sapsago (Schabziger) cheese. (See Nieheimer and

Sapsago.)

After the curd is prepared and salted, spices such as caraway seed usually

are mixed in, and it is ripened for 3 or 4 days. Then the ripened curd is

mixed with fresh curd, and the mixture is molded into small cheeses. They

are placed in a well-ventilated room to dry, and when they are quite dry

they are packed in casks to ripen between layers of hops. The cheeses are

about 2^ inches in diameter and an inch thick, and they weigh 3 to 4

ounces.
60 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Hvid Gjetost

Hvid Gjetost is a goat's-milk cheese made in Norway, for local consumption. The milk is set at 70° F. or higher. The curd is broken up and

cooked in the usual manner, after which it is pressed in forms 9 or 10 inches

long, 6 inches wide, and 4 inches deep.,

Ilha

Ilha, a Portuguese word meaning island, is the name of a rather firm,

cow's milk cheese made in the Azores and exported to Portugal. The cheese

is 10 to 12 inches in diameter and about 4 inches thick.

Analysis: Moisture, 28 to 37 percent; fat, 27 to 32 percent; protein, 24 to

31 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.

Incanestrato

Incanestrato (basketed) cheese is so named because the curd often is

pressed in wicker molds (baskets). The imprint of the wicker remains on

the <:heese.

As made in Sicily, it is a plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese made from

ewe's milk or a mixture of ewe's and cow's milk. When made from ewe's

milk only, it is called Pecorino Incanestrato. The milk is curdled, preferably with kid rennet, in about 45 minutes. The curd is stirred thoroughly,

and sometimes water is added. After the curd settles, it is separated from

the whey; it may be pressed by hand and may be allowed to ferment for 2

or 3 days. Then it is heated in whey, pressed and salted. Various spices

may be added. Pepper may be added, and then it is called Pepato. The

cheese is cured for about a year.

Majocchino, a similar cheese, is made from cow's, goat's, or ewe's milk

in the Province of Messina, Sicily. It contains olive oil.

In the United States, Incanestrato and also Pepato are made from cow's

milk, usually by the Romano process. (See Romano.)

Isigny

Isigny cheese, which is said to be of American origin, is named for a town

in France. It is the same shape as Camembert—about 5 inches in diameter

and 1 to 2 inches thick—and is made like Camembert except that the cheese

is washed and rubbed occasionally while it is curing to check the growth of

molds on the surface. The ripened cheese has a firmer body than Camembert and has a flavor and aroma like mild Limburger. The composition

varies considerably. (See Camembert.)

Island of Orléans

Island of Orléans cheese (Le Fromage RafiSné de l'Ile d'Orléans) is a

soft cheese with a strong, characteristic flavor. It has been made since

1679 by farmers on the Island of Orléans, which is in the St. Lawrence
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 61

River a few miles below Quebec. Undoubtedly the method was introduced

by early settlers from France, and the cheese resembles other soft, piquant

French cheeses.

Wholç milk is set with rennet directly after the cows are milked. After

the milk coagulates, the curd is cut; then the whey is drained off and the

curd is transferred to forms on rush mats. The forms of curd are turned

frequently. When firm, the cheeses are removed from the forms, and they

are wrapped in cloth for curing. They are ripened partly by molds and

yeasts that grow on the surface. They are fully cured in about 3 weeks

and deteriorate rapidly after curing is completed. They are round and

flat, and each cheese weighs about 5 ounces. About 12 pounds of cheese

is obtained from 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 50 percent or slightly more; and fat, 25 percent.

Italian

Italian cheese refers not only to varieties now made in Italy, but also to

those that originated in Italy and that now are made in other countries

as well. Parmesan, Romano, and Provolone are among the best known,

and they are made in considerble quantities in the United States. Parmesan, one of the group known in Italy as Grana, includes Lodigiano or

Lombardo, Reggiano-Parmigiano or Emiliano, and the less-known varieties,

Véneto or Venezza and Bresciano or Bagozzo.

The plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheeses include the hard Gaciocavallo,

Provolone, Provoletti, Panedda, Pera di vacca, Casigiolu, and Moliterno,

and the soft Provole or Provatura, Scamorze, Mozzarella, Manteca, and

Trecce.

Swiss-type cheeses made in Italy include Sbrinz or Spalen, Fribourg,

Battelmatt, Montasio, Fontina, Bitto, and Urseren. Other hard cheeses are

Romano, Sardo, Incanestrato, Asiago, Pepato, Bra, and Cotronese.

The Italian blue-green veined cheeses are Gorgonzola and similar cheeses,

including Gex, Pannarone, Sassenage, Septmoncel, and Moncenisio.

The principal soft cheeses are Bel Paese, Grescenza, Gacio fiore, Raviggiolo, Robbiole, Robbiolini, Reblochon, Mascarpone, Formagelle, Formaggio crema, Mont d'Or, Montpellier, Milano or Quartirolo, and Bernarde.

Fresh Ricotta, which is made from coagulated whey protein, usually with

5 to 10 percent of whole or skim milk added, is another soft cheese.

Formaggio and cacio mean cheese. Stracchino, which refers to a condition of milk for making cheese, has come to mean soft, rich, ripened cheese

in northern Italy.

Pecorino, used with the name of a cheese, indicates that it was made from

ewe's milk (as Pecorino Romano) ; Caprino, that it was made from goat's

milk ; and Vacchino, that it was made from cow's milk.

The names of some Italian cheeses indicate the season in which they are

made. Maggengo refers to cheese made between April and September,

chiefly Milano and Grana; Quartirolo, to Milano (or Milano-type) cheese

made from September to November; Terzolo, to cheese made in winter,

chiefly Milano and Grana; and Invernengo, to cheese made in winter,

chiefly Grana.
62 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Jochberg

Jochberg cheese is made in the Tyrol from a mixture of cow's and goat's

milk. The cheese is about 20 inches in diameter, 4 inches thick, and weighs

about 45 pounds.

Josephine

Josephine cheese, which is made in Silesia from cow's whole milk, is a

soft cheese that is cured in small cylindrical packages.

Kajmak

Kajmak (a Turkish word meaning "cream") is a cream cheese made

from ewe's milk in Serbia, where it is a very popular food. It is also known

as Serbian butter. The making process is primitive. Milk is boiled and

then poured into large shallow pans, which are usually made of wood.

About 12 hours later the cream is collected, usually salted, and it is put

into wooden containers. It is usually sold while fresh when the flavor is

mild; however, as it ages it develops more flavor and it may develop as

much flavor as Roquefort. Difl'erent lots vary greatly in composition.

Analysis (average of 10 samples) : Moisture, 31.55 percent; fat, 55.79

percent; protein, 6.25 percent; ash, 4.50 percent; and salt (in the ash),

3.07 percent.

Kareish

Kareish is one of the so-called pickled cheeses made in Egypt. Skim

milk is coagulated by souring, the whey is drained, dry salt is added, and the

curd is packed in earthenware vessels in a salt-brine solution. It is made

like Domiati, except that salt is added to the curd, not to the milk. (See

Domiati.)

Karut

Karut is a very dry, hard, skim-milk cheese made in Afghanistan and

northwestern India.

Kaskaval

Kaskaval is made from partly-skimmed ewe's milk in Siebenbürgen,

Rumania, by a method that is very similar to that used in making Katschkawalj. (See Katschkawalj.) The ripened curd is placed in a tub and

worked until it is elastic, as in making Provolone, and then it is put into

oval forms 5 to 8 inches in diameter and about 3 inches deep. Holes are

punched in the cheese to let whey out and to admit salt. The cheese is

salted in brine for a few hours and later rubbed with salt. It may be

marketed within a month. It is cured for 2 to 3 months. The cheeses

weigh 45^ to 6^ pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 50.5 percent; fat, 14.1 percent; protein, 28.1 percent;

and ash, 4.8 percent.

Peneteleu (Cascaval de Peneteleu) is a drier cheese made in Rumania

from ewe's milk by a similar method.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 63

Analysis: Moisture, 27.41 percent; fat, 20.13 percent; protein, 45.63

percent; ash, 5.11 percent; and salt (in the ash), 1.91 percent.

A variation, containing more moisture and less fat, is called PeneteleuBurduf cheese.

Kasseri

Kasseriis a hard cheese made in Greece, usually from ewe's milk.

Katschkawaij

Katschkawalj is a plastic-curd, Gaciocavallo-type cheese made from ewe's

milk "in Serbia, Rumania, Bulgaria, and Macedonia. The milk is curdled

with lab (a rennet-starter preparation), and the curd is drained, spread

out on a table, enclosed in cloth, and ripened until it becomes elastic when

heated. Then it is placed in metal canisters, cooked in water, and worked

like bread dough until it is very elastic. It is cut into pieces weighing

about 6 pounds, and each is worked to a spherical shape, placed in a metal

or wood form, cooled, washed with whey, dried, salted by repeatedly rubbing

in salt, and cured.

A similar cheese called Zomma, which is said to contain at least 30 percent

of fat, is made in Turkey.

Analysis (average of 10 samples) : Moisture, 35.72 percent; fat, 31.00

percent; protein, 24.24 percent; ash, 6.28 percent; and salt (in the ash),

4.01 percent.

Kefalotyi

Kefalotyi is a hard, grating-type cheese made in Greece and Syria from

either goat's or ewe's milk. It is about 10 inches thick and is said to

resemble a Greek hat, or Kefalo, which undoubtedly accounts for its name.

Cheese of this type is made also from goat's milk in the Ozark region in

Arkansas.

Kjarsgaard

Kjarsgaard îs a hard, skim-milk cheese made in Denmark from cow's

milk.

Kloster

Kloster cheese (or Klosterkäse) is a soft, ripened, Romadur-type cheese

made in Germany from cow's whole milk. It is about 3J/2 inches long,

lyi inches square and weighs about ^ pound.

Kopanisti

Kopanisti, which is made in Greece, is a blue-mold cheese with a sharp,

peppery flavor. Fresh, whole milk is coagulated with rennet as in making

Feta, except that the coagulation period is longer and therefore the curd

is firmer. The curd is cut, then dipped into cheesecloth, and the whey is

drained off. Then the curd is kneaded by hand and formed into round

balls about the size of a small orange. These are placed on a grating

260172 *'~53 5
64 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

in a trough or an earthenware container to dry. They soon are covered

with a blue-green mold. The balls of curd are salted, then kneaded until

the mold and salt are mixed thoroughly in the mass of curd, which is then

packed tightly in earthenware containers, and covered with a dry cloth.

The cloth is changed daily. The cheese is ready to eat after ripening for

1 to 2 months.

Koppen

Koppen, also called Bauden, is a sour-milk cheese that is made by herders

in their huts in the Sudetic Mountains between Bohemia and Silesia, The

cheese, which is said to be made from goat's milk, has a sharp, pungent flavor.

It is made in 2 shapes—1 conical, 3J4 inches in diameter and height and

about a pound in weight; the other cylindrical, about 5 inches in diameter

and 25^ inches thick, and about 2 pounds in weight. The milk is coagulated at a temperature of 80° to 85° F., the whey is removed, and the curd

is placed in forms. The cheeses afe salted, and they are cured.

Analysis: Moisture, 54 to 56 percent; fat, 24 to 25 percent; and protein,

16 to 18 percent.

Kosher

Kosher cheese is made especially for Jewish consumers, to conform with

Jewish dietary custom. Typically, itis made without animal rennet. Sometimes the milk is curdled by natural souring; sometimes a starter is added

to the milk. Among the Kosher cheeses are soft cheeses, like Cream and

Cottage cheese; Kosher Gouda; and a cheese that is made by the Limburger

process but, unlike Limburger, is eaten fresh. Kosher cheese bears a label

by which it can be identified.

Krutt

Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle

Asiatic Steppes from the skim milk of cows, goats, ewes, or camels. The

milk is coagulated by souring, salt is added, and the curd is hung up in a

sack to drain, after which it is pressed moderately. The curd is then made

into small balls, which are placed in the sun to dry.

Analysis: Moisture, 8 to 10 percent; fat, 1 to 1.5 percent; protein, 70 to

80 percent; and salt, 8 to 13 percent.

Kühbacher

Kühbacher is a soft, ripened cheese made in upper Bavaria, Germany,

from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. Itis cylindrical in shape—about

6 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick—and weighs about 2 pounds.

Kuminost

Kuminost, also called Kommenost, is a spiced cheese made in the Scandinavian countries from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. There are several types, of which the best known is a skim-milk cheese made in numerous
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 65

dairies in Denmark. Cumin and caraway seed are mixed with the curd

before it is pressed. Except for its spiced flavor, it resembles Colby and

Granular cheese. Kuminost is commonly made in loaves that weigh from

5 to 7 pounds. (See Spiced cheese.)

Small quantities are imported into the United States from Norway and

Sweden. Unless designated otherwise, and in all instances in the United

States, the cheese contains at least 50 percent of fat in the solids. The

cheese made from partly-skimmed milk contains at least 20 percent of fat

in the solids.

Labneh

Labneh is a sour-milk cheese made in Syria. It is said that about onethird of the cheese made in Syria is Labneh cheese.

Laguiole

Laguiole, also called Guiole, is a hard cheese named for the village of

Laguiole, in the Department of Aveyron, France. It resembles Cantal but

is considered to be a better cheese. Whole or partly skimmed milk is set

with rennet and about 30 minutes later the curd is cut. After ripening for

about 24 hours it is put into hoops and pressed. It is cured for at least a

month.

Analysis: Moisture, 34.5 percent; fat, 25.2 percent; protein, 28.7 percent;

and ash^ 5.4 percent.

Lancashire

Lancashire cheese is named for the county in England where it is made

and where much of it is consumed. It is said to be the most popular cheese

in some sections of England. It is similar in shape to Cheshire and Cheddar, but white in color, softer (the body is more salvy), moister, and has

a stronger flavor. A single cheese may weigh between 40 and 50 pounds;

however, a smaller size—about 7 inches in diameter and 10 inches thick,

weighing about 12 pounds—is also made. The fully cured cheese is said

to be especially suitable for toasting and for use in making Welsh rarebit.

Evening milk, which may be partly skimmed, is mixed with morning

milk, and the mixture warmed to a temperature in the range of 82° to

88'^ F., depending on the season. Starter is added, and the milk may be

ripened to an acidity of not more than 0.19 or 0.20 percent. Rennet is

added and in about an hour, when the curd is firm, it is cut with J^-inch

curd knives. After some further development of acidity, the whey is

drained slowly. The curd is placed on a drainer or in a cloth and pressed

lightly. When the curd has reached a certain stage of acid development,

it is cut into 4-inch cubes, repressed lightly, and then reçut into smaller

cubes. This operation is repeated until the curd is sufficiently acid and

firm and the cubes of curd are the size of kernels of com. At this stage

it is customary to put some of the curd aside for later use; curds of different

ages, up to 3 days, and different stages of acidity may be mixed together

to produce curd with a loose, friable body and texture. Salt is mixed in
66 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and the curd is placed

in forms. Pressing is begun the next day; the cheese is pressed usually

for 3 days, with a pressure of about 1,000 pounds, and it is dressed in cloth

daily. Because the curd undergoes considerable soaking in the whey, the

cheese is rather soft and lacks elasticity, and the flavor develops rapidly.

The cheese is turned daily while it is in the curing room. Sometimes it is

marketed after it has cured for a month at 60° F.; sometimes it is cured

for several months at a lower temperature.

Analysis: Moisture, 43 to 45 percent; fat, 23 to 26 percent; and salt,

1.5 percent.

Langres

Langres is a soft cheese, similar to Livarot, that is made in northeastern

France, mostly for local consumption. It is named for the village of

Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne, where it is said to have been

made since the time of the Merovingian kings. Fresh milk is set with

rennet at a temperature of 90° to 95° F. After a coagulation period of

several hours, the curd is put into cylindrical forms, 5 inches in diameter

and 8 inches deep. When the cheeses are firm enough to hold their shape,

they are removed from the forms, salted, and cured for 2 to 3 months.

When ripe, the cheeses weigh between V/2 and 2 pounds.

Lapland

Lapland cheese, which is like a very hard Swiss, is made by the Laplanders from reindeer milk. The cheese has a very unusual shape; it is

round and flat and is so formed that a cross-section resembles a dumbbell

with angular rather than round ends.

Leather

Leather cheese, also known as Leder and as Holstein Dairy cheese, is

made in the Province of Schleswig-Holstein, Germany, from cow's skim

milk, with 5 to 10 percent of buttermilk added. It is very similar to

Holstein skim-milk cheese.

The milk is warmed to a temperature of 95° to 100° F., and set with

enough rennet to coagulate it in from 25 to 35 minutes. The curd is cut

with a harp and stirred with a so-called Danish stirrer until the particles

are the size of peas. It is then piled on one side of the vat or kettle for

about 10 minutes, after which the whey is dipped off. The matted curd

is cut with a knife into pieces the size of the hand, put into a wooden or

tin bowl, pressed for half an hour, and then put through a curd mill. It is

salted, put into a cloth, and again pressed for 12 hours. During this period

the pressure is increased gradually, and the cheese is turned occasionally

and put into a fresh, dry cloth. The cheese is then put into a salt bath,

for 40 to 48 hours, after which it is transferred to the curing cellar where

it is cured for about 4 months. During the curing period it is wiped with

a dry cloth every day for about a week and thereafter twice a week. The

cured cheese has small eyes. It is cylindrical, from 10 to 12 inches in

diameter and from 4 to 6 inches thick, and weighs from 15 to 25 pounds.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 67

Leicester

Leicester cheese, first made in Leicester County in the midlands of England, is a hard, mild cheese made from cow's whole milk. It is said that at

one time Leicester was the finest cheese made in England, with the possible

exception of Stilton. It resembles Cheddar, but has more color and a higher

moisture content and ripens more rapidly; it is also similar to Derby and

Cheshire. The cheeses are about 18 inches in diameter and 6 inches thick,

and weigh about 40 pounds.

A mixture of evening and morning milk is colored with annatto. Lactic

starter and rennet are added at a temperature of SO"* to Sé'' F. in winter

and 76° to 78° in summer. About 75 minutes later, when the curd is very

firm, it is cut with a curd breaker or ^/^-inch curd knives. It is stirred carefully for a few minutes, then heated to a temperature of 92° in 45 minutes,

stirred about 10 minutes longer, and then the whey is drained off. A

curd rack is laid on the curd and weighted, to expel whey. The lightly

pressed, matted curd then is cut into 6-inch blocks. The blocks of curd

are piled on a rack in a vat and covered with a cloth to keep them from

cooling. The curd is cut into smaller pieces and inverted at 20-minute

intervals, until it acquires the desired acidity and firmness, when it is milled.

Salt is added at the rate of about 2 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and

the curd is then transferred to forms and pressed. A few hours later, the

cheese is removed from the forms, dressed in cloth, and repressed with

gradually increasing pressure until a final pressure of about a ton is used.

After the cheese has been in press a day or more, it is salted again with dry

salt and then is transferred to the curing room where it is cured on shelves

at a temperature of approximately 60°. It may be marketed after curing

for about 2 months, but usually it is cured for 6 to 8 months and it may be

cured for as long as a year.

Analysis: Moisture, 33 to 37 percent; fat, 29 to 30 percent; and salt,

1.5 to 2 percent.

Lescin

Lescin cheese is made in the Caucasus. Ewes are milked directly into

a skin sack; rennet is added to the milk, the curd is broken up, and the

whey is drained. The curd is put into forms and pressed lightly. When

the cheese is removed from the press, it is wrapped in leaves and bound with

grass ropes. After a week or two, it is unwrapped and salted with dry

salt, and again wrapped in leaves for curing.

Leyden

Leyden, which is also known as Komijne Kaas, is a spiced cheese made

in the Netherlands from partly skimmed cow's milk to which color is added.

Itis made both in factories and on farms.

The factory cheese is round and flat like Gouda, but sometimes it is made

with sharp edges on one side. It is imported into the United States in

different sizes, some cheeses weighing about 8 pounds and others as much

as 16 to 20 pounds.
68 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

On the farms about 5 percent of buttermilk may be added to the milk,

and it is set with rennet at a temperature of 82° to 86° F. About 30

minutes later the curd is cut with a harp, stirred, and warmed to about 92°

by pouring in hot whey. The curd is dipped with a cloth and kneaded.

Caraway and cumin seeds, and sometimes cloves, are added to a portion of

the curd, and the curd is then put into cloth-lined hoops in three layers

with the spiced curd as the middle layer. The cheese is pressed for about

3 hours, then it is redressed, inverted, and again pressed overnight. It may

be salted with dry salt, or it may be immersed in a salting bath. It is cured

in a cool, moist cellar. If the rind becomes too hard, it is washed with

whey or salty water. It is said that milk may be rubbed on the surface

occasionally, and that an alkaline solution containing litmus may be used

to tint the surface blue.

Analysis: Moisture, 40.6 percent; fat, 13.5 percent; and protein, 37.8

percent.

Liederkratiz

Liederkranz is the trade name of a soft, surface-ripened cheese that is

made in Ohio from cow's whole milk. It is similar to a very mild Limburger in body, flavor, aroma, and type of ripening.

The milk is pasteurized, starter is added, and the milk is set with rennet

at a temperature of about 86° F. The curd is cut with 5/2-inch curd

knives, and when it has firmed sufficiently it is dipped into perforated

metal forms. After the whey has drained off, the cheeses are removed

from the forms, salted with dry salt, and then cured at a temperature of

about 45° for 3 or 4 weeks. Surface-growing micro-organisms produce

progressive ripening from the surface inward. The cheeses, which are

rather perishable, are wrapped in tinfoil for marketing. They may be

wrapped and shipped after curing for 12 to 15 days. They are about 2}/%

inches long, 1 Yi inches wide, and an inch thick, and they weigh 5 to 6 ounces.

Analysis: Moisture, 54 percent; fat, 24.2 percent (fat in the solids, more

than 50 percent) ; protein, 16.8 percent; and ash, 3.9 percent.

Limburger

Limburger is a semisoft, surface-ripened cheese with a characteristic

strong flavor and aroma. Usually it contains small irregular openings.

The cheeses vary in size from a 3-inch cube that weighs less than a pound

to a cheese 6 inches square and 3 inches thick that weighs about 2^ pounds.

Limburger was first made in the Province of Lüttich, Belgium, and is

named for the town of Limburg, where originally much of it was marketed.

It is made also in other parts of Europe, especially in Germany and

Austria, and in the United States, especially in Wisconsin and New York.

Other similar European cheeses are: Allgäuer Limburger and Stangen,

made in Bavaria; Romadur and Hervé, made in Belgium; Schloss, made

in Germany and Austria; Marienhofer and Tanzenberger, made in

Carinthia, Austria; Backsteiner, made in Germany; and Void, made in

France.

The method of making Limburger differs in different factories, but in

general is as follows : Fresh milk, preferably whole milk, may be pasteurized,
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 69

and it is warmed in a vat or kettle to a temperature usually between 86°

and 92° F., but in some factories to as high as 96°. Lactic starter and

rennet are added. Usually about 30 minutes after setting, but in some

factories an hour later, the curd is cut into cubes about /2 inch in diameter.

If the milk was set at the lower temperatures, the curd is stirred slowly

as it is warmed to about 96°, and it is stirred gently at intervals as it

acquires firmness. When the curd is sufficiently firm, most of the whey

is drained off. In some factories, the curd is washed with weak salt brine

to lower its acidity.

The curd is dipped into large rectangular metal or wooden forms that

rest on a drain table. Sometimes the forms are divided into sections the

size of the individual cheeses; sometimes the forms are not divided, and

after the block of curd is removed from the forms, it is divided to make

the individual cheeses. In some factories, a light-weight board is placed

on the curd to furnish light pressure. The forms of curd are turned

frequently.

When the cheeses are firm enough to retain their shape, they are removed

from the forms and salted. In some factories, they are packed close

together in dry salt on a salting table for at least a day, and they are

turned frequently until they have absorbed salt on all surfaces; in other

factories, they are rubbed with salt daily for about 3 days; and in still

other factories, they are immersed in salt brine for a day at a temperature

of 55° to60° F..

After the cheeses are salted, they are cured on shelves at a temperature

of 50° to 60° F. and a relative humidity of about 90 percent. According

to some authorities, surface-ripening micro-organisms are responsible for

the characteristic flavor and aroma. Yeasts, which reduce the acidity, predominate at first, and these are followed by Bacterium linens^ which

produces a characteristic reddish-yellow pigment.

The cheeses are placed close together on the shelves at first, and separated

later. As the cheese cures, slime forms on the surface and the rind acquires

a reddish-yellow color. In some factories, the cheeses are rubbed and

turned every 2 or 3 days; in other factories, they are washed with salty

water. The older cheeses are rubbed or washed before the younger ones;

in this way, the younger ones are inoculated with the surface-ripening

micro-organisms. After they have cured for 2 or 3 weeks, they are wrapped

in parchment or waxed paper and an outer layer of metal foil, and curing

is continued at a lower temperature. If the cheese was made from raw

milk, it is cured for at least 60 days. From 11 to 13 pounds of cured cheese

is obtained per 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 50 percent (usually 43 to 48 percent) ;

fat, 26.5 to 29.5 percent (not less than 50 percent of the solids) ; protein,

20 to 24 percent; ash, 4.8 percent; and salt, 1.6 to 3.2 percent.

Liptauer

Liptauer (or Liptoi) is a soft, so-called pickled cheese that is named for

the Province of Liptow in northern Hungary, where it is made. Cheese

of this type, either identical or very similar, is made in numerous villages in
70 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

the Carpathian mountain region of Czechoslovakia and Hungary. It is

known in the different villages by different local names, among which are

Landoch, Zips, Siebenburger, Neusohl, Altsohl, Klencz, and Bryndza (or

Brynza). The German for Bryndza is Brinsen. Similar cheese made in

Macedonia is called Ftinoporino.

Liptauer usually is made from ewe's milk, although in some localities as

much as 10 percent of cow's milk is added. An unusual feature is that

herdsmen prepare the curd daily, and the raw cheeses (Gomolya) are collected weekly and taken to centralized factories (brynziar) where the cheese

is made and cured.

The milk is warmed in a copper kettle over a fire to a temperature of 75°

to 85° F. Rennet, prepared locally from the stomachs of suckling calves,

lambs, or pigs, is added. After a coagulation period of 15 to 20 minutes,

the curd is broken up, collected, and pressed into large lumps which are

hung up in cloths to drain for a day or two. These lumps of drained curd,

which are about 6 inches in diameter, are the Gomolya. They are collected

weekly and taken to the factory where they are placed on boards or in large

wooden casks and cured until they reach the desired stage of ripening, about

10 days. Then the rinds are removed, and the curd is cut into small pieces

and salted. It is packed in a tub and ripened for several days. When it is

soft and buttery, it is run through a roller mill and then packed in casks or

packages of various sizes, for shipment. About 9^ pounds of Gomolya is

obtained per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 46 to 49.2 percent; fat, 17.0 to 24.6 percent; protein,

21.0 to 28.2 percent; and salt, 1.9 percent.

Livarot

Livarot, which is a soft, cow's-milk cheese, is named for the village of

Livarot, in the Department of Calvados, France, where the industry is

centralized. The cheeses are about 6 inches in diameter and 1% inches

thick. Livarot is very much like Camembert, which is made in the same

region.

The milk, which is more or less skimmed, is set with rennet at a temperature of from 95 "" to 104^ F. About I/2 or 2 hours later the curd is cut and

placed on a rush mat or a cloth to drain for about 15 minutes, during which

time it is crumbled fine. It is then put into tinned hoops about 6 inches in

diameter and 6 inches deep. The cheeses are turned very frequently until

they become firm, after which they are salted and then left on the draining

board for 4 or 5 days. At this stage they sometimes are sold as white cheese.

More often the cheeses are placed in a well-ventilated room for 15 or

20 days, after which they are taken to the curing cellar where they are cured

for 3 to 5 months. The curing cellar is not ventilated, in order to keep

from dissipating the aromas that help to give the cheese a strong, piquant

flavor. While curing, the cheeses are turned two or three times a week and

occasionally they are wiped with a cloth that has been moistened with salty

water. About 10 or 12 days after they are placed in the curing cellar they
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 71

are wrapped in laiche leaves {Typha latifolia). After they are cured, they

are colored with annatto and marketed.

Analysis: Moisture, 52 percent; fat, 15 percent; protein, 26 percent; and

salt, 2.9 percent.

Loaf

Loaf cheese refers to the rectangular, loaf-like shape in which several

cheeses are packaged and marketed, rather than to a specific variety. Before 1940, loaf cheese usually referred to process cheese. However, since

about 1940j natural cheeses of various kinds, such as Brick, Cheddar, Cream,

and Swiss, have also been packaged and marketed in loaf shape.

Lodigiano

Lodigiano, a Grana- or Parmesan-type cheese, is made in the vicinity of

Lodi, Italy, from which it derives its name. It is similar to Lombardo; in

fact, according to some authorities they are the same. The cheeses are 15

to 20 inches or more in diameter, 6^ to 9 inches thick, and weigh between

65 and 110 pounds. They are cylindrical, with convex faces. The surface

of the cheese is colored dark and is oiled; and the interior is yellow. The

cheese is sharp, fragrant, and sometimes slightly bitter. Itis larger, contains

less fat, has larger eyes, and ripens more slowly than Reggiano. It may be

cured for as long as 3 or 4 years, and it is used for grating. (See Grana and

Parmesan.)

Analysis: Moisture, 25 to 32 percent; fat in the solids, 25 to 33 percent

(in the United States, not less than 32 percent) ; and salt, 2.6 to 3.5 percent.

Lombardo

Lombardo, an Italian Grana- or Parmesan-type cheese, is similar to

Lodigiano; according to some authorities they are the same. The cheeses

are 12 to 16 inches in diameter, 6 to 8 inches thick, and weigh between 40

and 60 pounds. They are cylindrical and flat; in the spring and summer

they are made with convex sides. The surface of the cheese may be colored,

and it is oiled. The cheese has a sharp and aromatic flavor and granular

texture. It contains a few small eyes, frequently unevenly distributed. It

is cured for at least a year and usually for l^/i to 2 years, and the aged

cheese is used for grating. (See Grana and Parmesan. )

Analysis: Moisture, 27 to 32 percent at 1 year of age; 20 to 30 percent

at 2 years; fat in the solids, 27 to 35 percent (in the United States, not less

than 32 percent).

Lorraine

Lorraine, a small, sour-milk, hard cheese, is named for Lorraine, Germany, where it is made and where it is regarded as a delicacy. It is

seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio nuts and is eaten while comparatively fresh. Each cheese weighs about 2 ounces.
72 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Lüneberg

Lüneberg cheese is made in the small valleys between the mountains in the

Province of Vorarlberg in western Austria. Cheesemaking was introduced

into this region from Switzerland, and copper kettles and Swiss-type presses

are used. The milk, which is colored with saffron, is warmed to a temperature of 87° to 90"^ F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in

from 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of hazelnuts

and is headed, with stirring, to a temperature of 122^. It is then dipped

into clotVj which are put into wooden forms and pressed lightly. After

24 hoi'js in the press, during which time the cheeses are turned and the

cloth j are changed occasionally, they are taken to the curing cellar. The

choeses are salted on the surface, and they are rubbed and washed occasionally while curing, wnen ripe, the cheese is said to be about midway

in characteristics between Swiss and Limburger.

Maçonnais

Maçonnais is a goat's-milk cheese made in France, It is about 2 inches

square and Ij/í» inches thick.

Macqueline

Macqueline is a soft cheese which is similar to Camembert but is said to

be inferior. It is made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the Department of Oise, France, where Camembert is also made.

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80"^ F. After a

coagulation period of about 5 hours, the curd is put into hoops. The hoops

are removed 24 hours later, and the cheese is salted and then taken to the

curing room for a period of 20 days or more. Each cheese is about 4 inches

in diameter and 1^ inches thick, and weighs about 4 ounces. One cheese

can be made from 4/2 pounds of milk.

Maile

Maile is a ewe's-milk cheese that is made in the Crimea. The curd is

cooked and then drained in a cloth for 2 hours, after which it is salted,

molded in forms, and put into salt brine in which it may be kept for as

long as a year.

Maile Pener

Maile Pener (fat cheese) is made from ewe's milk in the Crimea. The

milk is set at 100° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in from 15 to 30

minutes. The curd is broken up and the whey is dipped off. Then the curd

is put in a linen cloth to drain for from 2 to 6 hours. It is pressed with

a board and salted in brine. It may be kept for as long as a year. When

cured, the cheese has a crumbly, open texture and an agreeable flavor.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 73

Mainauer

Mainauer cheese is named for an island in Lake Constance, a lake

bordered by Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. It is similar to Radolfzeller Cream cheese (which is made in this area, also) and to Münster

(although it is somewhat firmer and cures more slowly than Münster), A

single cheese weighs about 3 pounds.

Usually fresh whole milk, but sometimes partly skimmed milk, is heated

in a kettle to a temperature of 86° to 90° F., and rennet is added. After a

coagulation period of 40 to 45 minutes, the curd is cut into pieces about an

inch in diameter, stirred, and then heated slowly to a temperature as

high as 104°. After the curd settles, the whey is removed, and the curd is

transferred to perforated forms to drain for about 12 hours during which

time the forms of curd are inverted occasionally. Then the cheeses are

removed from the forms and salted on the surface. They are cured for

4 to 5 months in much the same way as Münster. ( See Münster. ) Between

11 and 12 pounds of cured cheese can be made from 100 pounds of whole

milk.

Analysis : Fatin the solids, 40 percent.

Mainzer Hand

Mainzer Hand cheese (Mainzer Handkäse) is a sour-milk, small, round,

cured cheese made in Germany. Curd from partly skimmed, naturally

soured milk is kneaded by hand, pressed in small portions, dried, and then

cured in a cool cellar (sometimes in kegs or jars) for as long as 6 to 8 weeks.

( See Hand cheese, )

Analysis: Moisture, 53.74 percent; fat, 5.55 percent; and protein, 37.33

percent.

Malakoff

MalakofF is a soft, Neufchâtel-type cheese made in France. It is about

2 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick. It may be eaten either fresh or

after itis cured.

Manteca

Manteca or Manteche "cheese," which is made in Italy, is in reality

butter (usually whey butter) enclosed in a bag of plastic cheese curd.

It is also known as butirro, burriello, burrino, and even burro (the Italian

word for butter). The plastic-curd bag preserves the butter by protecting

it from the air, thus preventing its deterioration even in a warm climate.

The whey butter used in making Manteca usually is produced as a byproductin the manufacture of Caciocavallo and Provolone.

Heated, plastic curd—which is prepared like curd for making Scamorze—

is formed into a bag with walls about a half-inch thick. From J4 to J/i

pound of butter is put into the bag, the edges are closed, and the whole

is immersed in cold water to solidify the butter which was melted by con-
74 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

tact with the heated curd. The "cheese" is shaped like a small, rounded

Gaciocavallo. The outer surface of the bag usually is smoked, which gives

it a yellow-brown color^ but the butter within remains straw-colored.

Manur

Manur cheese is made in Serbia from either cow's or ewe's milk. The

milk is heated to boiling and then cooled until the fingers can be held in it.

A mixture of buttermilk, fresh whey, and rennet is added. The curd is

lifted from the whey in a cloth and drained, and then is kneaded, salted

lightly, and dried.

Maquee

Maquee, known also as Fromage Mou, is a soft, brick-shaped cheese made

from cow's milk in Belgium.

Marches

Marches is a hard, Pecorino (ewe's-milk) cheese made in Tuscany, Italy.

The Province of Tuscany borders on the Province of Marche, for which

this cheese is named.

Marienhofer

Marienhofer is a Limburger-type cheese made in Marienhof-Pichlern,

Carinthia (Kärnten), Austria. Enough fat is removed from the evening

milk so that when it is mixed with the whole morning milk the mixture

will have about 75 percent of the normal fat content. The cheeses are

about 414 inches square and about I/2 inches thick, and they weigh a

pound or slightly more. They are wrapped in tinfoil.

Märkisch Hand

Märkisch Hand cheese is made by the usual Hand-cheese process, except

that after the curd is salted it is put into a linen sack and is pressed heavily.

It is then removed from the press and cut into oblong pieces, and these aJre

dried and cured in the same way as the usual Hand cheese, (See Hand

cheese.)

Marelles

MaroUes (or Maroilles) is a soft, cow's-milk cheese similar to Pont

l'Êvêque and Livarot. It is made in numerous villages in the Departments

of Aisne and Nord, France. The details of manufacture diflPer in the

different villages, the cheeses are various shapes and sizes, and they are

known by different local names. For example, MaroUes (made at MaroUes) is 6 inches square and 2 inches thick; MaroUes (made at St, Aubin)

is 5 inches square and 3 inches thick; Larron is about 2^ inches square and

V/z inches thick; Tuile de Flandre is about twice as large as Larron;

Dauphin is shaped like a half moon and contains herbs; and Boulette is

pear-shaped and sometimes contains some buttermilk.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 75

Fresh, whole milk is recommended, although skim milk or partly skimmed

milk is often used. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about

75° F., and the coagulation period varies from 1 to 4 hours. The curd is

put into boxes with perforated bottoms, and the whey drains from the curd

for 1 to 2 hours. Then the curd is transferred to forms, 5 or 6 inches square

and 3 or 4 inches deep. The cheeses in the forms are turned frequently.

When they are firm, they are removed from the forms, salted on the surface,

and taken to the curing cellar. They are cured for 3 to 5 months, and

they are washed frequently with salty water while curing, to prevent the

growth of molds.

Analysis (whole-milk MaroUes) : Moisture, 40 percent; fat, 30 percent;

and protein, 20 percent.

Mascarpone

Mascarpone is a soft, cream cheese that is made in Lombardy, Italy,

during the winter. It is like fresh Ricotta in consistency and has a mildly

acid, buttery flavor. It is cylindrical, from 2 to 2/2 inches in diameter

and about 2/3 inches thick, and weighs about 4 ounces. Cream is heated

to about 195° F., and dilute acetic acid, vinegar, tartaric acid, or lemon

juice is stirred in. The curd is drained in a bag and then is placed in

muslin-lined forms. After additional draining for a day, the cheese is

removed from the forms. It may be salted, and it is packaged. It is eaten

while fresh. The yield is 40 to 55 pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of

cresim.

Mecklenburg Skim

Mecklenburg Skim, a hard, skim-milk cheese, was first made in the

Province of Mecklenburg in northern Germany, for which it is named.

The milk is placed in a copper kettle and is warmed with steam. It is

colored with saffron, and enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in

30 minutes. The curd is broken into particles about the size of peas and

is stirred while being heated slowly to about 92° F. Then the curd is

dipped with a cloth, and it is placed in hoops and pressed for a day with

gradually increasing pressure, until the final pressure is about 15 times the

weight of the cheese. The cheese is placed in a drying room at a temperature of about 70°, where it is held until the rind has formed. Salt

is sprinkled and rubbed on the surface. The cheese is cured at a temperature of approximately 60° and a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent.

Melun

Melun, or Brie de Melun, is a French cheese of the Brie type, but Melun

usually has a somewhat firmer curd and a sharper flavor than Brie. It is

the size of a small Brie. (See Brie.)

Mesitra

Mesitra is a soft, ewe's-milk cheese made in the Crimea. Fresh milk

is set with rennet in a copper kettle. The curd is cut, then is heated over
76 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT* OF AGRICULTURE

a slow fire. The curd is dipped when it is comparatively soft, and it is

pressed lightly. The cheese often is not salted, and it is eaten while fresh.

Mignot

Mignot, which has been made in the Department of Calvados, France,

for more than 120 years, is a soft cheese that resembles Pont TÉvêque and

Livarot. It may be either cylindrical or cubical in shape. There are two

types of Mignot: (1) White, which is a fresh cheese and is made from

April to September; and (2) passé, which is a ripened cheese and is made

the rest of the year.

Milano

Milano or Stracchino di Milano, which is known also as Fresco and

Quardo and, when made in the fall, as Stracchino Quartirolo, is a soft,

sweet, fast-ripening table cheese made in Lombardy, Italy. It is classed

in the group with Crescenza, and is similar to Bel Paese. It is square,

from V/i to 2% inches thick, and weighs between 3 and 6/2 pounds.

It is colored yellow, has a thin rind, and may be enclosed in muslin.

The milk is curdled with rennet extract at a temperature of 86^ to 91° F.

in 35 to 45 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of almonds.

After the curd settles, it is gathered in a cloth and hung up to drain;

then it is put into forms, pressed lightly, and salted after 2 or 3 days.

It is cured at a temperature of 60° to 65°. It is ready to eat after curing

for about 20 days and will not keep much longer than 60 days.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 50 percent; casein, about 20 percent; fat, 30

percent or more.

Miatzitra

Mintzitra is a soft cheese made in Macedonia from ewe's milk,

Mitzithra

Mitzithra cheese, which also is called "Pot" cheese, is made by shepherds

in the vicinity of Athens, Greece, from the whey which is a byproduct of

Feta cheese. It is made under primitive conditions, and the method of

making is simple. The whey and fresh milk, usually ewe's milk, are mixed

in a vat, and curdled. After a curdling period of 4 or 5 days, the whey

is removed and the residual curd is collected, drained, and pressed. The

fresh cheese is sold by the shepherds to merchants, for resale in Greece and

for export, chiefly to Greek colonies.

Modena

Modena and Monte are the names of some Parmesan-type cheeses (that

contain less fat than Parmesan) which were made in the United States

during World War IL
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 77

Moliterno

Moliterno, a plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese, was made originally in

the Departments of Calabria and Lucania and now is made also in the

Province of Basilicata, Italy. It is said to be similar to Cotronese. When

made from ewe's milk only, it is called Pecorino Moliterno. It is made by

much the same process as Caciocavallo and other plastic-curd cheeses.

(See Caciocavallo.)

Moncenisio

Moncenisio is a blue-mold, Gorgonzola-type cheese made in Italy.

Mondseer Schachtelkäse

Mondseer Schachtelkäse, a Münster-type cheese that is popular in Austria, is made from either whole or partly skimmed milk. It has a somewhat

sharp, acid flavor, similar to mild Limburger. The cheeses are about 6

inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh about 2^ pounds. One

whole-milk cheese of this type is called Mondseer Schlosskäse.

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 86° F. The curd

is cut coarsely an hour later or, if firmer curd is desired, the coagulation

period may be as long as 3 hours. When the curd has settled, the whey is

drained off and the curd is transferred to cylindrical, perforated, clothlined forms; it is turned frequently for a period of several hours. Then

the cheeses are removed from the forms and dried for 3 or 4 days. When

dry, they are salted on the surface and transferred to a cool, moist cellar

where they are cured for 3 to 6 weeks. While curing, they are washed every

few days with warm water or warm, salty water; and a reddish-yellow

smear develops on the surface. The cheeses are wrapped separately, and

they are shipped in wooden containers called schachteln.

Monostorer

Monostorer is a ewe's-milk cheese that is made in Transylvania, Rumania.

Fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 86° to 88° F. The curd

is broken by hand, the whey is drained and pressed out, and the curd is

crumbled into pieces and salted. Then it is sprinkled with warm water,

subdivided, and mixed, after which it is pressed strongly by hand and again

crumbled. The curd is placed in cloth-lined forms, about 8 inches long,

4 inches wide, and 2 inches deep, and pressed for 8 to 10 hours. The

cheeses are removed from the forms, salted in brine for 2 days, and cured

for 8 to 10 weeks. They are washed regularly with salty water while curing.

About 15 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk.

Montasio

Montasio, a hard cheese similar to Fontina and Bitto, was first made in

Friuli, Italy (formerly Friaul, Austria). The annual output in Friuli is
78 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

large, and production has spread to nearby areas. Montasio is made usually

of a mixture of cow's and goat's milk, but in some places only ewe's milk is

used.

Either whole or partly skimmed milk is heated in a kettle to 95*^ F.,

and enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 30 to 40 minutes. The

curd is cut very carefully to the size of peas and is heated gradually (in

about 30 minutes) to a temperature of 120°. Then heating is stopped, but

the curd is stirred for another 30 to 40 minutes. Some of the whey is

dipped from the kettle, and a cloth is used to remove the curd. The cheese

is pressed for 24 hours, during which time it is turned frequently. From

2/2 to 3 percent of salt is added over a period of about a month. After

salting is completed, the cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room to dry.

While drying, it is turned frequently and rubbed to keep the surface free

of mold. When dry it is scraped carefully and is then taken to the curing

cellar, where it is rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth. When the rind

has become firm, olive oil usually is applied. Sometimes the rind is blackened with soot.

The fresh cheese is almost white. The cured cheese is yellow and granular

and has a sharp taste and characteristic aroma. It is usually cured for 3

to 12 months, but may be cured longer. It is eaten as a table cheese when

made from whole milk and not fully cured; it is grated for use as a

condiment when made from partly skimmed milk and fully matured.

Montavoner

Montavoner is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. Dried herbs ( Achillea

moschata and A. atrata) are added to the curd during the making process.

Mont Cenis

Mont Genis, a hard, blue-mold cheese that resembles Gex and Septmoncel,

is made in the region of Mont Cenis in southeastern France, usually from

a mixture of cow's, ewe's, and goat's milk. It is about 18 inches in diameter,

6 or 8 inches thick, and weighs about 25 pounds.

Primitive methods of cheesemaking are used in making Mont Cenis.

Evening milk usually is skimmed and added to morning milk. The mixture

is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85'' F. When the milk has

coagulated, the curd is cut and the whey is drained from the curd overnight.

The next morning, fresh curd is made and mixed with that prepared the

previous day, and a pénicillium mold is sometimes incorporated. The mixture is put into molds and pressed with moderate pressure for several days,

during which time it is turned frequently and salted. Then it is transferred

to the curing cellar, and it is cured for 3 or 4 months. While curing, it is

turned frequently and washed with salty water to check the growth of mold

on the surface of the cheese.

Mont d'Or

Mont d'Or, a soft cheese similar to Pont l'Évêque, is named for Mont

d'Or, near Lyon, in the Department of Rhône, France, where it is said to
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 79

have been made for more than 300 years. It is made also in other parts of

Frances especially in the Departments of Eure and Oise.

It formerly was made from goat's milk, but now usually is made from

cow's milk to which a small quantity of goat's milk may be added. Whole

or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° to 100° F.

The coagulation period varies from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Sometimes the

curd is cut before it is put in the hoops and sometimes it is put in the hoops

without being cut. It is put into circular hoops, about 4^2 inches in

diameter and 3 inches deep, that have been placed on a draining board

covered with straw. About an hour later the cheeses are turned, and they

are turned frequently thereafter until they are firm. A disk with a light

weight is sometimes placed on each cheese to hasten drainage of the whey.

The cheese is salted on the surface. Mont d'Or is often sold without curing ;

however, it may be cured for about a week in summer and from 2 to 3 weeks

in winter, during which time it is turned frequently and washed with salty

water to retard the growth of molds on the surface of the cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, 42 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 20 percent; and

salt, 2 percent.

Monterey

Monterey (or Jack) cheese was first made on farms in Monterey County,

Calif., about 1892, and manufacture on a factory scale was begun about

1916. The name Monterey has largely replaced Jack, except for the type

known as High-moisture Jack.

The cheese is made from pasteurized whole, partly skimmed, or skim milk.

Whole-milk Monterey is semisoft; Monterey made from partly skimmed or

skim milk (called grating-type Monterey, dry Monterey, or dry Jack) is

hard and is used for grating. High-moisture Jack is made from whole milk

by a slightly different process.

Monterey is made by a method similar to Colby, but the making process

takes less time. The curd is cooled to a temperature of about 86° F. by

running water either into the vat jacket or directly into the curd. (Colby

is cooled to about 80° by running water directly into the curd.) The curd

is salted after the whey has drained. Enough curd to make each cheese is

placed in a square of muslin; as the four corners of the cloth are pulled

together, the curd is formed as nearly round as possible; the cloth is tied

tightly with a string, and the excess cloth is spread evenly over the top of the

curd. Then the cheese is pressed either between boards or in a hoop. The

pressed cheeses are round and flat and may have indentations on one surtace where the cloth was tied before pressing. The sides are straight if the

cheese was pressed in a hoop and round if it was pressed between boards.

The cheeses are about 9^/2 inches in diameter and usually weigh between 6

and 9 pounds and never more than 12.

Whole-milk Monterey contains more moisture and is softer than either

Granular or Colby. It is cured for 3 to 6 weeks at a temperature of about

60° F. and a relative humidity oír 70 percent.

Grating-type Monterey is cured for at least 6 months. The cheeses may

be coated with oil containing pepper.

260172"—53 6
80 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

In making High-moisture Jack, the curd is heated to a temperature no

higher than 96° F. (which is 6 to 8 degrees lower than in making Monterey) ;

part of the whey is drained off, and the curd is cooled quickly to 72° by

running water directly into the vat. It is cured at a temperature between

40° and 50°, rather than 60°. It contains more moisture and is softer than

whole-milk Monterey.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent for whole-milk Monterey;

not more than 34 percent for grating-type Monterey; and not less than 44

but less than 50 percent for High-moisture Jack; fat in the solids, not less

than 50 percent for whole-milk Monterey and High-moisture Jack; not less

than 32 percent for grating-type Monterey; and salt, about 1.5 percent.

Monthéry

Monthéry, which is very much like Brie, is a soft, surface-ripened, cow'smilk cheese made in Seine-et-Oise, France. It is made in two sizes. The

larger is about 14 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weighs about

5/2 pounds; the smaller weighs about 3 pounds. Monthéry is made from

either whole or partly skimmed milk. Rennet is added and, when the curd

is sufficiently firm, it is broken up, put into molds, and pressed. The cheese

is salted and is placed in a drying room for 8 to 15 days, where curing begins.

Then it is transferred to a cellar where curing is completed at a temperature

of about 55° F. As it ripens, a whitish mold grows on the surface of the

cheese, and this is followed by a blue mold in which red spots appear. The

cheese is ready for sale after curing for about a month.

Mozarinelli

Mozarinelli is a cheese made in Italy from cow^s or buffalo's milk.

Mozzarella

Mozzarella is a soft, plastic-curd cheese that is made in some parts of

Latium and Campania in southern Italy. It originally was made only from

buffalo's milk, but now it is made also from cow's milk. It is made in

much the same way as Gaciocavallo and Scamorze; however, it more nearly

resembles Scamorze, as both Mozzarella and Scamorze are eaten while fresh,

with little or no ripening. It is irregularly spherical in shape and weighs

8 ounces to a pound. It is used for the most part in cooking. The yield

is 13 to 15 pounds per 100 pounds of cow's milk, Ricotta is often made

from the whey. ( See Gaciocavallo and Scamorze. )

Considerable Mozzarella is made in the United States, especially in

New York. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 86° to 88° F.

(if pasteurized milk is used the setting temperature should be 96°) ; the

curd is cut and it is put into bags to drain. It is common practice to ship

the curd to a dealer at this stage, as is done with cottage-cheese curd. The

dealer stores the curd until he is ready to market the cheese. Then he

completes the manufacturing process (heating and kneading the curd in

the same way as in making Scamorze), and markets the fresh cheese.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 81

Münster

Münster (or Muenster) is a semisoft, whole-milk cheese that was first

made in the vicinity of Münster in the Vosges Mountains near the western

border of Germany. It is similar to Brick cheese but has less surface smear

and undergoes less surface ripening while curing. It contains numerous

small mechanical openings. Géromé (or Gérardmer), which is made in

nearby France, is similar.

The cheeses usually are cylindrical and flat, about 7 inches in diameter

and from 2 to 7 inches thick. Those 2 inches thick weigh about 2 pounds;

those 7 inches thick weigh as much as 10 pounds. Usually they are 4 to

5 inches thick and weigh between 4 and 6 pounds. In some factories the

cheeses are made in loaf shape.

Good-quality milk is essential in making Münster. In the United States,

the milk is pasteurized. Lactic starter is added, and annatto color may be

added. The milk is warmed to a temperature of 86° to 90° F., and rennet

is added. From 30 to 40 minutes later the curd is cut into pieces about

y2 inch in diameter; then it is stirred and heated. (In Europe, the time

from setting to cutting may be as long as 2 hours; the curd is left undisturbed in the whey for 30 to 45 minutes after it is cut, and it is not heated.)

When the curd is sufficiently firm, the whey is drained off, sometimes

caraway seed is mixed with the curd, and it is dipped into perforated

cloth-lined metal forms. The forms are in two parts, which fit together.

The forms of curd are turned and the cloths are changed several times

the first day; usually at the end of the first day, the upper half of each

form and the cloth lining are removed. The curd remains in the lower

half of the forms for 3 or 4 days and is turned twice daily. Then the

cheeses are removed from the forms and salted. Usually they are rubbed

with salt daily for 2 or 3 days; if necessary, they are replaced in the forms

between saltings until they are firm enough to retain their shape. In some

factories, they are salted in brine.

The cheeses are dried, then cured at a temperature of 50° to 55° F.

and a relative humidity of about 75 percent. They are turned and cleaned

at least twice a week. In some factories they are washed with salty water;

in others, they are washed with water and rubbed lightly with salt. Sometimes they are rubbed with vegetable oil. In the United States they usually

are cured for 6 to 8 weeks, but frequently are sold after ripening only a

week or two ; in Europe they are cured for as long as 3 months. The cheeses

are wrapped in parchment or waxed paper and packed in boxes. From

10 to 12 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 46 percent (usually 42 to 44 percent) ;

fat, 28 to 29.6 percent (not less than 50 percent in the solids) ; and salt, 1.8

to 2 percent.

Mysost

Mysost cheese is made in the Scandinavian countries (Norway, Sweden,

and Denmark) and in a few factories in the United States, principally in

northern Illinois, Michigan, New York, and Wisconsin, from the whey

obtained in the manufacture of other cheeses. There is considerable
82 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

variation in the composition of the whey used in different factories and in

different localities, and in the manufacturing procedure and the composition

of the cheese; and it is known by different local names. Mysost is made

from cow's-milk whey. Similar cheese made from goat's-milk whey is

called Gjetost. In some instances a small proportion, usually not more

than 10 percent, of buttermilk or whole milk, or even cream is added to the

whey. Cheese made from such whey contains more fat and is softer and

sometimes is called Primost or F10tost. Cheese made by the same method

from whole milk rather than whey is called Gomost.

The cheese consists principally of caramelized lactose (milk sugar) but

contains also the fat, protein, and minerals present in the whey. It is

light brown in color, has a buttery consistency and a mild, sweetish flavor.

It does not undergo appreciable ripening but keeps well when packaged

properly.

Sometimes, if the whey contains considerable acid, neutralizer is added

to prevent a sour or bitter flavor in the cheese. If sweet whey is used,

lactic starter usually is added. The whey is strained into a kettle and

boiled (condensed) until it is a viscous mass, which may take 5 hours or

longer. It is stirred while boiling. The albuminous material that rises

to the surface is skimmed ofl". When the whey is reduced to about onefourth its original volume and has the consistency of heavy cream, the

albumin skimmed off earlier is stirred in thoroughly. Some manufacturers

also stir in as much as 10 percent of brown sugar and some add spices, such

as cloves or cumin seed. Then, while hot, it is poured or dipped into a

round tank or vat equipped with a stirrer, and, while cooling, it is stirred

constantly to prevent the formation of lactose crystals. When cool, it is

poured into greased round or rectangular forms. When hard (firm), the

cheeses usually but not always are cut into pie-shaped or small rectangular

segments. Then, the whole cheese or, if cut, the individual segments

may be dipped in wax or paraffin, and they are wrapped tightly, preferably

in metal foil, to prevent contamination, and packed in cartons. The flat,

cylindrical cheeses frequently weigh about 18 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, frequently about 13 percent and preferably not more

than 18 percent; fat in the solids, frequently 10 to 20 percent but preferably

not less than 33 percent.

Nägeles

Nägeles (Fresh) cheese is made in the Netherlands from cow's skim milk.

Cloves and cumin seed are mixed with the curd. It is shaped like Derby,

that is, it is round, about 16 inches in diameter and 5 inches thick. (See

Spiced cheese.)

Natural Rindless Loaf

Natural Rindless Loaf cheese is natural (not process) cheese that is

packaged and marketed in a transparent, flexible wrapper by one of several

variations of a method that was developed about 1940. Large quantities

of various kinds of cheese, including Brick, Cheddar, and Swiss, are now marketed in this way. There is no rind formation on such cheese, and drying
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 83

losses are minimized or eliminated. The cheese may be packaged by the

manufacturer, by the warehouse operator, or by the retailer, and either before

or after it is cured. The type of wrapper and the method used depend

on the kind of cheese packaged and the place of packaging. A brief

description of the method of making rindless Cheddar cheese follows:

Cheddar cheese for packaging should be made from pasteurized milk

because pasteurized-milk cheese produces gas at a relatively low rate while

curing and therefore will not cause the wrapper to "bulge." The curd is

pressed in rectangular forms^ to make blocks of cheese weighing 20^ 40,

60, or 80 pounds.

In one method^ the blocks of cheese are wrapped^ placed in a box, and

cured under light pressure. The blocks of cured cheese are removed from

the box, warmed to room temperature, unwrapped, and cut into consumersize prints. Then the prints are wrapped in transparent film and fitted

tightly into cartons (without air spaces between the prints). The cartons

of cheese are sealed under pressure, left at room temperature for a day,

and then placed under refrigeration.

In another method, the blocks of uncured cheese are cut into consumersize prints, and the prints are wrapped, boxed, placed under pressure, and

cured.

Nessel

Nessel îs a soft, cured cheese made in England from cow's whole milk.

The cheeses are round and thin.

Neufchâtel

Neufchâtel cheese (Fromage de Neufchâtel), as made originally in

France—especially in the Department of Seine Inférieure—is a soft, mild

cheese made from whole or skim milk or a mixture of milk and cream. It

may be eaten fresh or it may be cured. Bondon, MalakofF, Petit Carré,

and Petit Suisse are other French cheeses that differ from Neufchâtel

mainly in fat content and in size and shape.

Lactic starter is added to fresh milk at a temperature of 82° to 86° F.,

and enough rennet is added to coagulate the curd in 16 to 18 hours, or

overnight. The coagulated curd is poured into a cloth, and it is either hung

up to drain or placed in a drainer for 2 to 4 hours or longer. When the

whey has practically stopped dripping, the curd is gathered up in the cloth,

as in a bag, and chilled with ice ; then it is pressed between boards with a

weight on top for 6 to 8 hours. The pressed curd is removed from the

cloth bag, salted, either run through a curd mill or kneaded by hand,

and then pressed in molds about 2J4 inches in diameter and 2 or 3 inches

deep. Salt may be rubbed on the surface of the cheeses when they are

removed from the molds, and they are dried on a draining board for about

24 hours. Then they are transferred to a cool, damp curing room or cellar

where they are kçpt clean and are inverted frequently. While curing, microorganisms—including Mycoderma casei. Pénicillium candidum, and P.

camemberti, as well as the so-called red cheese bacteria—grow on the surface

of the cheese; a thin coating of white mold develops, followed by a yellow
84 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

or reddish growth. The cheese, which is ready to market in 3 to 4 weeks,

is wrapped in parchment or tinfoil. About 15 pounds of cured Neufchâtel

cheese can be made from 100 pounds of rich, whole milk.

Neufchâtel frais (fresh) refers to Neufchâtel cheese made in France

that is eaten without curing. It is cylindrical and flat, about 2 inches in

diameter and 2/2 inches thick, and weighs less than 8 ounces.^ It is made

usually from whole milk and contains at least 45 percent of fat in the solids.

In the United States, Neufchâtel is made from pasteurized milk or a

pasteurized milk-and-cream mixture in much the same way as Cream cheese,

but it contains less fat and more moisture. (See Cream cheese.)

Analysis (fresh, domestic Neufchâtel) : Moisture, 55 to 60 percent (not

more than 65 percent) ; fat, not less than 20 percent but less than 33 percent;

protein, 18 percent; and salt, 0.8 to 1.2 percent.

Nieheimer

Nieheimer, a sour-milk cheese, is named for the city of Nieheim in the

Province of Westphalia, Prussia, where it is made. Like Hop cheese, which

it resembles, it is packed with hops for curing. Although the two cheeses

are not identical, Nieheimer is known as Hop cheese in some localities. ( See

Hop cheese.)

The sour milk is heated to a temperature between 100° and 120'' F.

The curd is collected in a cloth, and the whey is drained from it for a

24-hour period. Then the curd is worked until it is mellow, after which

it is shaped into cakes. The cakes of curd are ripened in a cellar for 5 to 8

days, during which time they are turned frequently. When they have

ripened sufficiently, they are broken up, and salt, caraway seed, and sometimes beer or milk, are added. The mbcture is molded into small cheeses,

shaped like flattened spheres, that weigh about 4 ounces. The cheeses are

covered lightly with straw, and when they are sufficiently dry they are packed

in casks with hops to ripen.

Noekkelost

Noekkelost (or Nögelost), which is a Norwegian spiced cheese, is similar

to other spiced cheeses such as Kuminost and Dutch Leyden. Cumin seed,

cloves, and sometimes caraway seed are the spices used. In Norway,

Noekkelost usually is made from partly skimmed milk; in the United States,

it may be made from either whole or partly skimmed milk. In the United

States, Noekkelost usually is made in a loaf that weighs between 5 and 7

pounds, and it may be coated with paraffin or wax. Imported Noekkelost

may be this shape and size, but the cheeses usually are cylindrical and weigh

about 18 pounds although some cheeses weigh as much as 32 pounds. (See

Spiced cheese.) At

Analysis: Imported—Moisture, usually not more than 45 percent; tat

in the solids, usually about 30 percent and not less than 20 percent. Domestic, whole-milk—Fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent. Domestic, partskim—Fatin the solids, notless than 20 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 85

Nostrale

Nostrale is the local name for two kinds of cheese made from cow's milk

in the mountainous region of northwestern Italy. One kind is a hard cheese

(Formaggio Duro) that is made in the spring while the herds are still

in the valleys; the other is a soft cheese (Formaggio Tenero) that is made

in the summer when the herds are pastured in the mountains. The cheese is

said to be a very old variety, and the methods of manufacture have remained

primitive. A cheese called Raschera, which is made in the region of Mondovi, Italy, is probably the same as Nostrale.

Oka

Oka cheese, made in the Trappist monastery at Oka, Canada, is a type

of Trappist or Port du Salut cheese. ( See Trappist and Port du Salut.)

Old Heidelberg

Old Heidelberg, a soft, surface-ripened cheese, is made in Illinois. It is

said to be very much like Liederkranz.

Olivet

Olivet, a soft, cow's-milk cheese, undoubtedly is named for Olivet, in

the Department of Loiret, France, the center of manufacture.

There are three types of Olivet: ( 1 ) Unripened, made from whole milk,

sometimes with cream added. This is consumed as fresh, summer, white,

or cream cheese. (2) Half-ripened or blue, made from whole or partly

skimmed milk. This is the most common type. (3) Ripened, also made

from whole or partly skimmed milk.

The curd is made by a process similar to that used in making Camembert.

Rennet is added to the milk, and after a coagulation period of about 2 hours

the curd is transferred to a container that is perforated on the sides and

bottom to facilitate drainage of the whey. About 24 hours later, the curd

is put into forms, and pressed. The cheeses are turned and salted the next

day, and they are then ready for consumption as unripened (fresh) cheese.

If half-ripened (blue) Olivet is being made, on the day following salting,

the cheeses are placed on straw-covered shelves in the first curing room,

which is maintained at a temperature of about 65° F. A reddish tint

appears on the surface in a few days, and this is soon followed by a bluish

tint. The blue color appears in from 10 to 15 days in summer and in about

a month in winter. It is a sign of maturity, and the cheeses then are

ready for consumption as half-ripened (blue) cheese. When cared for

properly, this type keeps for several months.

If ripened Olivet is being made, when the blue color appears the cheeses

are transferred to a second curing room where ripening is continued for an

additional 15 to 30 days. Sometimes they are covered with ashes, which is

believed to hasten the ripening process.
86 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Analysis (cheese made from milk with cream added) : Moisture, 28.4

percent; fat, 48.2 percent; and protein, 14.0 percent.

Olmützer Quargel

Olmützer Quargel, a sour-milk spiced Hand cheese made in western

Austria and Bohemia, is similar to Mainzer Hand cheese (Mainzer Handkäse). It contains caraway seed. The cheeses are about V/z inches in

diameter and Ys of an inch thick. They are formed, dried, then soaked

for a short time in salty whey. Then they are packed in kegs and cured

for 8 to 10 weeks. (See Hand cheese and Spiced cheese.)

Analysis: Moisture, 44 to 52 percent; fat, 3.5 to 8 percent; protein,

38 to 41 percent; and salt, 5 percent.

Oschtjepek

Oschtjepek (or Oschtjepka) is a plastic-curd cheese made from ewe's

milk in Slovakia. It is said to be made in the same way as the Italian

Caciocavallo. (See Caciocavallo.)

Ossetin

Ossetin cheese, also called Tuschinsk and Kasach, is made in the Caucasus from either ewe's or cow's milk. However, Ossetin made from ewe's

milk is considered to be better cheese than that made from cow's milk.

Enough rennet is added to fresh, warm milk to coagulate it quickly. The

curd is broken up by hand and cooked until it is firm; then it is kneaded

while the whey drains off. It is put into round forms and sprinkled with

salt. After 2 days, it is placed in brine for 2 months to a year or more.

The cheese will be softer and milder if it is left in the brine for only 2 months.

Ovcji Sir

Ovcji Sir cheese is made in the Slovenian Alps from ewe's milk. Evening

and morning milk are mixed in a kettle that holds about 110 pounds, and

warmed to a temperature between 86° and 95*^ F. over an open fire.

Enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in about 30 minutes. The

curd is broken up, heated to 122°, drained for an hour in a rack, and then

placed in a wooden hoop. Salt is rubbed on the surface of the cheese

daily for a week. It is cured for about 3 months in a cool, moist cellar.

When cured, a cheese weighs between 6 and 10 pounds.

Paglia

Paglia is a Gorgonzola-type cheese made in the Canton of Ticino, Switzerland. It is circular, about 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick.

Enough rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of 100° F. to curdle

it in 15 minutes. The curd is cut or broken up, stirred, drained, and put

in hoops. When it is sufficiently dry, the cheese is taken to a cool, moist

cellar and placed on straw to ripen. The fermentation (ripening) usually
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 87

is rapid and intense. It is controlled to some extent by salting the cheese;

salting is continued for about a month. The cheese has a rather soft,

mellow body and a pleasing aromatic flavor.

Pago

Pago cheese is made from ewe's milk on the Island of Pag (Italian, Pago),

in Yugoslavia. It weighs between /a and 8 pounds.

Pannarone

Pannarone cheese, also known as Stracchino di Gorgonzola bianco and

Gorgonzola dolce, is a fast-ripening Gorgonzola-type cheese with white

curd but without blue veining. It is made in much the same way as

Gorgonzola except that Pannarone undergoes rapid fermentation for 7 or 8

days at a temperature of 77° to 82° F. before it is placed in the cold room.

It is said to be unsalted, and the curing period is only 15 to 30 days. Each

cheese weighs between 17 and 22 pounds. (See Gorgonzola.)

Parenica

Parenica, or Parenitza, is a ewe's-milk, Gaciocavallo-type cheese made in

Hungary and Slovakia.

Parmesan

Parmesan is the name in common use outside of Italy, and sometimes in

Italy, for a group of very hard cheeses that have been made and known in

that country for centuries as Grana. Included in the group are Parmigiano,

Reggiano, Lodigiano, Lombardy, Emiliano, Véneto or Venezza, and

Bagozzo or Bresciano. They differ in size and shape and in the extent to

which the milk is skimmed, and there are slight differences in the methods

of manufacture. This type of cheese was first made in the vicinity of Parma,

in Emilia, hence the name; its manufacture has spread to other parts of

Italy and to other countries. It is made mostly from April to November.

Following is a general description of the process of making Parmesan-type

cheese:

Cow's milk, which is skimmed more or less in different localities and in

different seasons, is warmed to a temperature between 90° and 98° F., in

copper kettles that hold as much as 1,600 pounds, and a starter containing

heat-resistant lactobacilli and Streptococcus thermophilus is added. Cheese

color may be added. Enough rennet extract, diluted in water, is added

to produce curd firm enough to cut in 20 to 30 minutes. Then the

curd is cut with a so-called cheese harp; cutting and stirring are continued

until the particles of curd are Ys to %Q inch in diameter and are uniform

in size. The curd is heated in 35 to 50 minutes, with stirring, to a temperature of 115° to 125°, or as high as 130° if necessary to firm the curd

sufficiently.

When the curd is suflBciently firm, stirring is discontinued and the curd

is allowed to settle for about 10 minutes. It may be pressed in the bottom
88 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

of the kettle with a curd presser, then lifted with a scoop as a cloth is placed

under it; or it may be dipped into a cloth like that used in dipping Swiss.

The curd in the cloth is lifted and hung up to drain for 20 to 40 minutes;

then it is placed in a hoop on a drain table. The hoop is 18 or more inches

in diameter and up to 10 inches deep. The cloth is folded over the curd;

a circular board is placed on top, and pressure is applied. The cloth is

changed and the cheese is turned four or five times, frequently at first and

then at longer intervals; then the cloth is removed and the pressure is

increased. The cheese remains under pressure in the hoop for 18 to 20

hours. It is then taken to the salting room, which is maintained at a temperature of 60° to 65° F., where it may be left in the hoop for about 3 days.

Then it is removed from the hoop and salted in brine for 12 or 15 days, or as

long as 20 days, depending on the size of the cheese. It is dried for 8 to 10

days, usually on shelves but sometimes in the sun.

It is cured on shelves for about a year (the first stage of curing) in a

room which usually is a few degrees cooler than the salting room and which

has a relative humidity of 80 to 85 percent. The cheese is turned frequently

and is kept clean by washing and scraping; it is rubbed with oil from time

to time, and dark coloring may be rubbed on the surface. In the second

stage of curing, it usually is held by dealers in large curing rooms, at a

temperature of 54° to 60° F. and a relative humidity as high as 90 percent.

It may be coated with a mixture of burnt umber, lamp black, and dextrin,

dispersed in wine or grapeseed oil.

The yield of cheese cured for 4 months is 5 to 6 pounds per 100 pounds

of partly skimmed milk.

Fully cured Parmesan is very hard but keeps almost indefinitely. It can

be grated easily, and is used as grated cheese on salads and soups, and with

macaroni. Considerable quantities are imported into the United States for

use as grated cheese. However, successful domestic production, largely in

Wisconsin and Michigan, is displacing the imported product to some

extent. In the United States, Parmesan is cured for at least 14 months.

Analysis: Moisture, 30 percent (not more than 32 percent); fat, 28

percent (not less than 32 percent in the solids).

Parmigiano

Parmigiano, which is about the same as Reggiano, is one of the subvarieties of Grana (commonly called Parmesan), the hard Italian cheeses

used for grating. It is made in Parma (hence the name Parmigiano),

Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua, and Bologna, usually between April and

November. The cheeses usually are from 12]^ to 18 inches in diameter,

from 7 to 9 inches thick, and they weigh between 48 and 80 pounds. The

surface of the cheese is colored dark and coated with oil; the interior is the

color of straw. The cheese may have no eyes or it may contain a few small

eyes. It is cured for 1 to 2 years or longer. (See Grana, Parmesan, and

Reggiano. )

Analysis: Moisture, 27 to 32 percent at 2 years; 18 to 27 percent at 3

years; fat in the solids, 32 to 38 percent^ salt, 2.4 to 3 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 89

Pasta Filata

Pasta Filata (plastic curd) are Italian cheeses characterized by the fact

that, after the whey is drained off, the curd is immersed in hot water or

hot whey and is worked, stretched, and molded while it is in a plastic condition. The principal varieties of pasta filata cheeses are : Hard cheeses—

Caciocavallo, Provolone, and Provolette; soft, moist cheeses—Mozzarella,

Provole, Scamorze, and Provatura. There are numerous others. A

description of each is given under its specific name.

Patagras

Patagras is a hard cheese made in Cuba from pasteurized, whole or

slightly skimmed cow's milk. Gouda and Patagras are almost identical

and are made by a similar process. Patagras is shaped like Gouda, weighs

from 7 to 9 pounds, is coated with red wax, and usually is wrapped in a cellophane-type wrapper. It is considered one of the best Cuban cheeses.

(See Gouda.)

Analysis: Moisture, 40.3 percent; fat, 26.0 percent; and salt, 3.0 percent.

Pecorino

Pecorino (Formaggio Pecorino) are Italian cheeses that are made from

ewe's milk. There are numerous more or less clearly defined kinds. The

most common is Pecorino Romano. (Romano made from cow's milk is

called Vacchino Romano; and from goat's milk. Caprino Romano.)

Although Pecorino Romano was first made in Italy, it has been made

in Sardinia since 1920, where it is known as Sardo, Sardo Romano, and

Pecorino Sardo. More than 60 percent of the total output is now made

in Sardinia. (See Romano and Sardo.)

A type known as Pecorino Dolce is colored artificially with annatto,

and the curd is subjected to considerable pressure after it is placed in

the forms. Pecorino Tuscano is a smaller cheese than Romano; it usually

is about 6 inches in diameter and 2 to 4 inches thick, and weighs between

2 and 5 pounds. Some local names for other Pecorino cheeses are:

Ancona, Cotrone, Iglesias, Leonessa, Puglia, and Viterbo. The milk used

in making Viterbo is curdled with rennet obtained from the wild artichoke,

Cynara scolymus.

Pecorino Urbina and Pecorino Grosseto, which are very much alike, are

other Italian ewe's-milk cheeses. They are small, soft, mild cheeses.

Peneteleu

Peneteleu cheese is made in Rumania by the general process used in

making Italian Caciocavallo and Rumanian Kaskaval.

Analysis : Moisture, 27.4 percent; fat, 20.1 percent; protein, 45.6 percent;

and salt, 1.9 percent.
90 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Pepato

Pepato or Siciliano Pepato is a Romano-type, spiced cheese made in

Sicily and southern Italy. Sometimes the curd is packed and cured in

layers, with pepper between the layers, and sometimes the pepper is mixed

with the curd in the vat. Some cheese of this type is made also in northern

Michigan. (See Romano and Spiced cheeses.)

Petit Suisse

Petit Suisse is a small, rich, unripened cheese made in France. It is

similar to Carrey but contains more fat. It is made from fresh milk with

cream added, and is not salted. It is cylindrical and flat and is made in

2 sizes, one about 13/3 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, the other 1]^

inches in diameter and I3/3 inches thick.

Analysis: Moisture, 54.6 percent; fat, 35.0 percent (77.1 percent in the

solids) ; and protein, 7.3 percent.

Pfister

Pfister cheese is named for Pfister Huber, a Swiss who is supposed to have

originated it. It is classed in the same group as Swiss cheese although the

method of making differs considerably.

Cow's fresh, skim milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 85° F., and

this temperature is maintained until the curd is hooped. After a coagulation period of 30 minutes the curd is cut coarsely, and when the curd settles

some of the whey is removed. Then the curd is stirred for 5 minutes, after

which it is left undisturbed for another 5 minutes, while it settles again,

before it is collected in a cloth and pressed in hoops for a day. The hoops

of curd are redressed and turned occasionally. The next day the cheeses

are removed from the hoops, salted in a brine tank for about 3 days, and

then transferred to a moist room to cure for about 6 weeks. They are

cleaned and salted frequently while curing. The cheeses, which weigh

about 50 pounds, are shaped like small wheels of Swiss cheese.

Pickled

Pickled cheese is the term used to describe a group of cheeses to which

considerable salt is added in order to prolong their keeping quality. They

usually are soft cheeses with a white curd and are made in warm climates,

principally in the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea. The salt

may be added either to the milk or to the curd, or the cheese may be packed

in either salt brine or dry salt. Included in the group are: Domiati and

Kareish, which are made in Egypt; Feta, made in Greece; and Téleme,

made in Bulgaria, Greece, Rumania (where it is called Brandza de Braila),

and Turkey. A description of each of these is included under its specific'
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 91

Pie

Pie cheese is any cheese, such as Bakers' or Cottage cheese, which is used

in making cheese pie, cheese cake, or other bakery goods. Usually Bakers'

cheese is used; however, in making cheese rolls, some bakers use well-aged

American cheese or a mixture of American and Bakers' cheese.

Pimento

Pimento cheese is any cheese to which ground pimentos have been added.

Pimentos are added most often to cheese spreads and to Neufchatel cheese

and Cream cheese; sometimes to Club cheese and Cottage cheese; and

occasionally to hard cheese of the Cheddar type. ( See Process. )

Pineapple

Pineapple cheese is supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield County, Conn. It derives its name from its shape and the diagonal

corrugations on its surface that resemble the scales of a pineapple.

The curd is prepared as in making Cheddar or Granular or Stirred-curd

cheese except that it is heated until it is firmer. The curd is pressed in

pineapple-shaped forms of various sizes, to make cheeses weighing up to 6

pounds. After the cheeses are pressed, they are immersed in hot water

(120^^ F.) for a few minutes; then each is hung up in a small, loose-meshed

net to dry and cure. ( See Cheddar and Granular or Stirred-curd. )

The cheeses are cured for several months. While curing, they are kept

clean and are rubbed with oil several times; they may be shellacked to give

the surface a hard, shiny, varnish-like finish.

Analysis: Moisture, 12 to 30 percent; fat, 33 to 45 percent; protein, 27 to

35 percent; and salt, 2 to 3 percent.

Piora

Piora, made in the Canton of Tessin in the Swiss Alps, is a hard cheese

with small eyes, similar to Tilsiter. It is made from whole milk, either

cow's milk or a mixture of cow's and goat's milk. It is round and flat,

usually 12 to 16 inches in diameter, 3 to 4j/2 inches thick, and 18 to 35

pounds in weight.

A mixture of evening and morning milk is warmed to a temperature of

about 92° F. in round kettles, and a starter usually is added. Rennet is

added, and about 40 minutes later the curd is cut. The curd is stirred

slowly with a harp or curd breaker, steadily for 10 to 15 minutes; then at

intervals for about 20 minutes; then steadily for 35 to 45 minutes while it

is being warmed gradually to a temperature of 118° to 125°, and stirring is

continued for another 30 to 40 minutes or until the curd is firm enough to

dip.

The curd is transferred to wooden hoops and pressed in Swiss-type presses

for about 12 hours, after which the cheeses are removed from the presses

and salted in a salt tank for a day. They are cured on shelves in a curing
92 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

room at a temperature usually between 50^ and 55^ F. and a relative

humidity of 85 to 90 percent^ for 3 to 6 months. They are washed^ rubbed

with dry cloths, and turned frequently while curing. About 10^ pounds

of unripened cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 43.2 percent; fat, 29.0 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.

Pont rÉvêque

Pont FÊvêque, a soft cheese similar to Romadur, is manufactured in the

vicinity of Pont l'Évêque, in the Department of Calvados (Normandy),

France. It is mold-ripened like Camembert, but there are differences in

the making process and also in the finished cheese. In making Pont

l'Évêque, the milk is set at a higher temperature; the coagulation, draining,

and curing periods are shorter; the cheeses are washed while curing; and

there is less development of surface mold. When cured, Pont TÉvêque has

2L firmer body and is a yellower color.

St. Rémy cheese, which is made in the Department of Haute-Saône,

France, is very much like Pont l'Évêque; and Brioler, Steinbuscher, and

Woriener are German cheeses that are similar to Pont l'Évêque but milder.

Pont l'Évêque is made usually from cow's milk, either whole or slightly

skimmed; preferably the milk should contain at least 3.7 percent of fat.

Usually cheese color and lactic starter are added to the milk, which is

warmed to a temperature of 90° to 95*^ F. Enough rennet is added so

the curd will be ready to cut in 35 to 40 minutes. After the curd is cut and

has settled, it is transferred to a cloth, which is spread on a drain rack, and

it is covered to retard cooling. When the whey has drained off and the

curd is sufficiently firm, it is put into square, perforated, metal forms, which

rest on straw mats on a drain board. The forms of curd are turned and

the mats are changed every 5 minutes for the first half hour, and 5 or 6

times more during the first day, and then less frequently. At the end of

the second or third day, the cheeses are removed from the forms and salted

on the surface with fine, dry salt. Then they are placed in a well-ventilated

room to dry.

After several days in the drying room, the cheeses will be sufficiently dry

to transfer to shelves in the curing room. However, in some factories the

cheeses are packed close together in a large wooden box and covered with

a damp cloth before drying is completed, and they are kept in the box in

the curing room for a few days to favor the development of surface mold.

Then they are placed on the shelves. The curing room is maintained at a

temperature of 55° and a relative humidity of 80 to 85 percent. Successful

manufacture of Pont l'Évêque depends largely on careful regulation of the

temperature and humidity in the curing room. The cheeses are cured^ for

3 to 6 weeks. They are turned daily while curing and are washed occasionally with salty water. A normal growth of grayish-white mold soon covers

the surface, but it is not permitted to develop as much as on Camembert.

The cheeses are about 4^/4 inches square and 1J4 to IJ/^ inches thick

and weigh about 12 ounces. When cured, they are wrapped in wax paper
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 93

or parchment. Between II/2 and 12 pounds of cured cheese is obtained

from 100 pounds of cow's milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 45 to 50 percent; fat, 25.3 to 28 percent; protein,

18.2 to 22 percent; and salt, 2 percent.

Poona

Poona, a whole-milk, surface-ripened, soft cheese, was first publicized

widely in 1949. It is said to have been made originally in New York State,

The connotation of the name is unknown. Poona is round and flat, about

4 inches in diameter and 1% inches thick, and weighs about a pound.

It has an aroma like that of mild Limburger and has a reddish smear on

the surface. It is cured for 6 weeks. During the curing period, it is

rubbed daily to control surface ripening and to produce some firmness of

the rind.

Port du Salut

Port du Salut (or Port Salut) cheese was first made about 1865 by

Trappist Monks at the Abbey at Port du Salut, which is near Laval in the

Department of Mayenne, France. Its manufacture has spread to abbeys

in various parts of Europe, especially Austria, Czechoslovakia, and southern

Germany, and also to Canada and to the United States, where it is made

in at least one monastery in Kentucky. The Trappists have kept the exact

process secret, but similar cheese is made outside the monasteries in central

and southern Europe. In France, cheese of this type made outside the

monasteries is called St. Paulin.

The curd of Port du Salut cheese is compact and elastic, similar to

Pont l'Évêque; the flavor is similar to Gouda; and in some instances the

aroma is like very mild Limburger. The cheeses are cylindrical and flat.

In France, they usually are 10 inches in diameter, nearly 2 inches thick, and

weigh about 5 pounds; in Austria (and Kentucky), they are about 7 inches

in diameter, 2 inches thick, and weigh nearly 3 pounds.

The details of the making process differ in difí'erent localities, but in

general are as follows:

Usually the cheese is made from cow's milk. Although the milk may be

partly skimmed, it is recommended that it contain not less than 3.5 percent

of fat. The milk is ripened slightly; or, if fresh milk is used, lactic starter

is added. Cheese color may be added. Rennet is added to the milk at

a temperature between 82° and 95° F. The coagulation period varies from

35 or 40 minutes to 60 or 80 minutes; it is longer if fresh milk rather than

ripened milk is used, if rennet is added at a relatively low setting temperature, or if the curd is to be heated later.

The curd is cut carefully and stirred in much the same way as Swisscheese curd. Cutting and stirring is continued for 20 to 30 minutes. When

the curd particles are cut to ^ to ^ inch in diameter, part of the whey

is removed, and sometimes the curd is heated, with stirring, to a temperature

between 96° and 105° F., the final temperature depending on the acidity

of the milk. Then, after the curd settles, much of the whey is removed.
94 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

The curd is stirred vigorously and then transferred rapidly to perforated,

cloth-lined metal forms, which are either 7 or 10 inches in diameter and

about 3 inches deep, and which rest on small drain boards. The curd

is heaped high in the forms and weighted with a disk. The curd remains

in the forms for 10 to 12 hours. The cheeses are turned and the cloths are

changed every 20 minutes the first hour and less frequently thereafter.

Then the cheeses are removed from the forms, dried for about 20 hours,

and salted. Usually they are rubbed with dry salt and then placed in a

salt bath for a day. They are cured in a cellar on clean shelves for 6 to

8 weeks. Some authorities recommend curing at a temperature of 55° F.;

others recommend as high as 65°. Some recommend a relative humidity

of 85 or 90 percent, and according to others the room should be relatively

dry. At regular intervals during the curing period, the cheeses are washed

with salty water, wiped nearly dry, and turned. They are wrapped in

parchment and packed in boxes for marketing, and they may be marketed

before they are fully cured. Usually between 7 and 8 pounds of cured

cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of cow's milk, but the yield may be

as much as 9.5 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 46 percent; fat, 25 to 30 percent; and salt,

1.3 to 2.5 percent.

Potato

Potato cheese is made in Thuringia, central Germany, usually from

cow's milk but also at times from ewe's or goat's milk. The curd is made

either from sour milk or from milk to which rennet is added. Potatoes are

peeled, boiled, and either mashed or put through a sieve. The curd and

potatoes are mixed in various proportions, such as 3 parts of potatoes

to 2 parts of curd, or 1 part of potatoes to 2 or 3 parts of curd. Salt

is added, and sometimes caraway seed is added also. The mixture is

ripened for 2 to 4 days. Then it is mixed thoroughly again and placed in

forms for a day. The cheeses are removed from the forms and dried,

sometimes covered with beer or cream, and they are placed in tubs and

ripened for about 2 weeks.

Prate

Prato cheese (Queijo Prato)^ which is made in Brazil, is a pasteurizedmilk, semicooked, pressed, small-eyed, Gouda-type cheese. It is similar

to the Cuban cheese, Patagras.

Prattigau

Prattigau is a cow's skim-milk cheese that is named for the Prattigau

Valley in Switzerland^ where it was first made. It is made also in France.

It is made in much the same way as Limburger. The cheeses weigh

between 20 and 25 pounds. (See Limburger.)

Prestost

Prestost, also called Saaland Pfarr, is a cow's-milk cheese that has been

made in Sweden since the 18th century. The cheeses usually are cylindrical
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 95

in shape and weigh from 5 to 30 pounds. Fresh^ whole milk is set with

rennet at a temperature of 90° F. When the curd is very firm, it is cut

coarsely, then put in a sieve to allow the whey to drain off. The curd is

collected in a cloth and kneaded to expel more whey. Whisky is mixed

with the curd, after which it is packed in a basket and salt is sprinkled

on the surface. It is cured in a cool, moist cellar. The cloth covering is

changed daily for 3 days, and the cheese is washed with whisky after the

third day.

Process

Process (or Pasteurized Process) cheese is made by grinding fine, and

mixing together by heating and stirring, one or more cheeses of the same or

two or more varieties, together with an added emulsifying agent, into a

homogeneous, plastic mass. However, Cream, Neufchatel, Cottage,

Creamed Cottage, Cooked, hard grating, semisoft part-skim, part-skim

spiced, and skim-milk cheeses are not used. Lactic, citric, acetic, or phosphoric acid or vinegar, a small amount of cream, water, salt, color, and

spices or flavoring materials may be added. The cheese may be smoked,

or it may be made from smoked cheese, or so-called liquid smoke or smoke

"flavor" may be added.

Cheese was heated and preserved in cans in Germany and Switzerland

as early as 1895. Hard, ripened Process cheese was made in Switzerland in

1911. Canned Camembert cheese from Germany was marketed in the

United States as early as 1914, and the first United States patent for

processing cheese was issued in 1916. It is estimated that at least one-third

of all cheese made in the United States, excepting the soft, unripened

cheeses, is marketed as Process cheese. American Cheddar cheese is processed in greatest quantities, but considerable quantities of other Americantype cheeses, such as Washed-curd, Colby, and Granular, and also Swiss,

Gruyère, Brick, Limburger, and others are processed. Most of this is

manufactured in a few large plants, as small-scale production is not practical.

Considerable skill is required in selecting the cheese to be used. It is

selected on the basis of flavor, texture, body, age, acidity, and composition.

Desirable cheese flavor is obtained by using sharp, fully-cured cheese, but

cheese with minor defects such as imperfect rind, pinholes, gassiness, and

open texture, as well as some mild flavor defects can be used, as these defects

are either eliminated or minimized in processing.

Uniform composition, body, flavor and texture in the finished cheese are

obtained by using cheese from two or more vat lots (in some instances as

many as 20 or 30 vat lots) in each batch or blend. A vat lot is the cheese

made from the milk in one vat.

The cheese for each batch is cleaned, cut if the cheeses are large, and run

through a grinder into a steam-jacketed kettle or a horizontal cooker. The

other ingredients are added either as the cheese is run through the grinder

or while it is being heated.

Steam-jacketed kettles, equipped with mechanical agitators to stir the

cheese, are available in various sizes but frequently hold from 200 to 400

pounds of cheese. As much as 30 minutes is required to heat the cheese in

a large kettle.

260172°-
96 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

In most large factories, horizontal cookeh that hold 500 pounds or more

of cheese are used. The cookers are equipped with screw-type propellers

to stir the cheese, and live steam injected directly into the cheese heats it

in from 3 to 5 minutes.

The cheese is heated to a temperature of at least 150° F., and usually

155° to 160°, and it is held at that temperature for at least 30 seconds but

usually for about 5 minutes, the time depending on the physical characteristics of the cheese. When long, thin strings of hot cheese can be drawn

from the batch with a spatula and the cheese is smooth, homogeneous,

glossy, and creamy, it is ready to be packaged. In most factories, it is packaged automatically by machine in cartons that hold from 8 ounces to 5

pounds. The cartons usually are lined with transparent film, and they are

sealed to exclude air. The packaged cheese is cooled to room temperature;

then it is placed under refrigeration. The high temperature attained in

heating, together with the heat retained during the several hours required

to cool the cheese to room temperature, makes the cheese practically sterile ;

it keeps well and does not ripen further'.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 1 percent more than the maximum

legal limit for the kind of natural cheese from which it is made, or 1 percent

more than the average of the maximum legal limits if it is made from more

than one kind; but in no case more than 43 percent (except 40 percent for

Process Washed-curd or Colby; 44 percent for Process Swiss or Gruyère; and

51 percent for Process Limburger). Fat in the solids, not less than the

minimum legal limit for the kind of natural cheese from which it is made,

or the average of the minimum legal limits if it is made from more than

one kind; but in no case less than 47 percent (except 43 percent for Process

Swiss and 45 percent for Process Gruyère).

Fruits, vegetables, or meats, or mixtures of these, may be added to Process

cheese, in which case the moisture content may be 1 percent more, and the

fat in the solids 1 percent less, than in the corresponding Process cheese.

Process Pimento cheese is made by adding at least 0.2 percent of pimentos

by weight to Process Cheddar or Cheddar-type cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 41 percent; fat in the solids, not less

than 49 percent.

Process Blended

Process Blended (or Pasteurized Process Blended) cheese is made in the

same way as Process cheese, except that Cream cheese or Neufchatel cheese

can be used in mixtures of two or more kinds and neither emulsifier nor acid

is added. The moisture content must not be more than the average of the

maximum limits of the cheeses blended.

Fruits, vegetables, or meats are sometimes added, in which case the moisture content may be 1 percent more and the fat in the solids 1 percent less

than in the corresponding Process Blended cheese.

Process Cheese Food

Process Cheese Food (or Pasteurized Process Cheese Food) is made in

the same way as Process cheese, except that certain dairy products (cream,
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 97

milk, skim milk, cheese whey, or whey albumin) or concentrates or mixtures

of any of these may be added, but at least 51 percent of the weight of the

finished cheese food must be cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent; fat, notless than 23 percent.

Fruits, vegetables, or meats are sometimes added, in which case the fat

content must be atleast 22 percent.

Process Cheese Spread

Process Cheese Spread (or Pasteurized Process Cheese Spread) is made

in the same way as Process Cheese Food, except that it contains more moisture (44 to 60 percent) and less fat (but not less than 20 percent) and must

be spreadable at a temperature of 70° F. Fruits, vegetables, or meats may

be added.

Provatura

Provatura is a soft cheese of the plastic-curd (pasta filata) type that

originated in southern Italy. It was first made from buffalo's milk but is

now made also from cow's milk. It is made in much the same way as

Caciocavallo. Like Mozzarella, itis eaten while fresh. (See Caciocavallo. )

Analysis: Moisture, 51 to 57 percent; fat, 12 to 18 percent; and protein,

20 to 22 percent.

Providence

Providence cheese, which is very similar to Port du Salut, is made in the

monastery of Bricquebec in the Department of Manche, France. It is about

8 inches in diameter and 1J/2 inches thick.

Provole

Provole, a round, plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese, is made from buffalo's

milk in southern Italy. It is made in the same general way as Caciocavallo,

and is similar to Provatura and Scamorze. It is eaten when only a few days

old. Each cheese weighs about 2 pounds.

Provolone

Provolone, an Italian plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese, was first made

in southern Italy but is now also made in other parts of Italy and in the

United States, principally in Wisconsin and Michigan. It is light in color,

mellow, smooth, cuts without crumbling, and has an agreeable flavor.

Provolone is made in various shapes and sizes, each of which is identified

by a more or less distinguishing name. Typically, the style called Provolone

is pear-shaped and in the United States weighs about 14 pounds; in Italy,

it weighs between 6 and 9 pounds and is called Provolone affetale if it

weighs between 9 and 14 pounds. Larger styles, weighing as much as 50,

100, or 200 pounds, are called Provolone giganti. Smaller styles, weighing

from 1 to 5 pounds, usually are spherical and are called by various names

such as Provoletti, Provolotini, and Provoloncini. Another style is sausage-
98 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

shaped and is called Salame (Italian, sausage) if it weighs about 10 to 12

pounds, Salamini if it is smaller, and Salame giganti if it is larger (up to 200

pounds or more).

The Italian method for making Provolone and Caciocavallo are almost

identical. ( See Caciocavallo. ) However, Provolone contains more fat and

the cheeses usually are smoked after they are salted and dried. After the

cheeses are smoked, they may be dipped in paraffin; if they are not paraffined, they are oiled. Although Caciocavallo may be used as a table cheese

after it has cured for 2 to 4 months, usually it is cured for longer periods

and is especially suitable for grating. On the other hand, Provolone is an

excellent table cheese after it has cured for 6 to 9 months, and the larger

styles are still suitable for use as table cheese after curing as long as 14

months. Sometimes the surface of the cheese is grooved, because it was

hung in strings or ropes or because it was molded in a grooved form. The

cheeses are kept clean while curing. The yield is 9]^ to W/a pounds of

uncured cheese, or 7/2 to 8% pounds of cured cheese per 100 pounds of

milk.

The method for making Provolone in the United States differs in some

respects from the Italian method. The milk, which may be either raw or

pasteurized, is put in a Cheddar-type vat and starter is added. The milk is

set with rennet paste or rennet extract plus an enzyme preparation. After

the curd is cut and the whey is removed, as in the Italian method, the curd

is matted, like Cheddar curd, and then cut into slabs about 2 by 8 by 24

inches which are worked and stretched in hot water. In some factories,

the curd is worked in a mixing machine. The machine, which holds about

500 pounds of curd, is a metal container equipped with an irregular-shaped

metal-rod stirrer, with paddle-like elbows, that revolves on a horizontal axis.

The water is added at a temperature of about 180° and usually is changed at

least once during the mixing process. The curd is worked for about 15

minutes and reaches a temperature of about 135°. Then the mass of curd—

now shiny, elastic, and stringy—^is removed from the machine and cut into

pieces for the individual cheeses. These are treated further as described

under Caciocavallo. The yield of uncured cheese is from 9 to 9^/2 pounds

per 100 pounds of cow's milk from which very little of the fat has been

removed. If the cheese is made from raw milk, it must be cured at least

60 days.

Analysis (domestic Provolone) : Moisture, not more than 45 percent

(usually 37 to 43.5 percent) ; fat, 25 to 33 percent (fat in the solids, at

least 45 percent and usually 47 percent) ; and salt, 2 to 4 percent.

Pultost

Pultost cheese, called Knaost or Ramost in some localities, is a sour-milk

cheese made in small quantities in the thinly-settled mountainous region

of Norway. Sour skim milk is put in a kettle, 2 percent of starter and usually

about 10 percent of whole milk is added, and the mixture is cultured for

several days; if the milk is not sour enough to curdle on warming, sour
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 99

buttermilk is added to increase the acidity. When sufficient acid has developed, the mixture of curd and whey is heated slowly, with stirring, to a

temperature of 130*^ to 140° F. It is kept warm for several hours and is

stirred frequently to keep the curd from matting. Then the whey is drained

off, and the curd is mixed thoroughly. About 4 percent of salt and a small

amount of caraway seed are mixed in, and sometimes thick cream is added.

The curd is placed in boxes or troughs and stirred occasionally. It is ready

to eat in a few days as fresh cheese. However, it is held in storage if it is

to be consumed as aged or ripened cheese. About 16 pounds of fresh

cheese or 13 pounds of ripened cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of skim

milk containing 10 percent of whole milk.

Quacheq

Quacheq is a ewe's-milk cheese made in Macedonia. Sour whey is added

to the milk, and when the curd has coagulated it is removed and pressed.

The cheese may be eaten while fresh or after it has ripened.

Quartirolo

Quartirolo is a soft, cow's-milk, Italian cheese made originally in Lombardy, in autumn. According to some authorities, it is the name given to

Milano cheese that is made from September through November. (See

Milano.)

Analysis: Moisture, 52.8 percent; fat, 23.7 percent.

Queso Anejo

Queso Anejo (aged cheese) is a white, rather dry, skim-milk Mexican

cheese, with a crumbly texture. The cheeses are made in round forms, and

are cured for 6 to 8 months. They weigh from 11 to 22 pounds; they are

packed in jute bags, each of which holds 6 or 8 cheeses, for shipment.

Considerable cheese of this type is marketed in Mexico City. It is served

with enchiladas and other native dishes. Some wholesalers cover it with

red chile powder, and it is then marketed as Queso Enchilado.

Queso Blanco

Queso Blanco (white cheese) is the principal Latin-American cheese.

It is made in a few small factories, but for the most part it is made on farms

where it provides an important means of using surplus milk. The cheese

is made from whole, partly skimmed, or skim milk; or from whole milk with

cream or skim milk added. Much of the cheese is eaten fresh, within a day

or two after it is made, either without being pressed or after pressing. Some

of the pressed cheese is held for periods ranging from 2 weeks to 2 months

or more.

The method of making varies in the different countries and on different

farms in the same country, but in general is as follows:
100 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Fresh, warm cow's milk is put into a wooden vat or tub, or in some

instances a hollowed-out log, and it is curdled with rennet, sometimes after

considerable acid has developed in the milk. After a coagulation period

of 30 to 45 minutes, the curd is broken up by hand and gently squeezed in

the whey until it is rather firm—usually for 15 to 30 minutes. When the

curd is sufficiently firm, it is removed from the whey, broken up, kneaded,

and salted. Usually the salt is mixed with the curd, but it may be sprinkled

on the curd after it has been put in the forms. At this stage the curd is

fairly dry, soft, and granular, and has a salty flavor.

If the curd is pressed, it often is worked with the hands before it is

put into the forms, to make it more pliable and plastic, and the cheese will

be more compact. The forms or cheese boxes are various sizes—^usually

square or round, cloth-lined wooden frames with perforated bottoms. The

cloth liner is drawn up over the cheese and topped with a wooden cover,

which is weighted down with a heavy rock or lever press.

The pressed cheese is really hard, crumbly, matted rennet curd with a

salty flavor and rather open texture. The high salt content, usually 5

percent or more, retards or prevents curing; however, when the cheese is

held it develops a strong flavor and odor and it dries and may be used

as a grating cheese. Some of the skim-milk cheese is smoked for 2 or 3

days, which darkens the surface of the cheese and dries it somewhat in

addition to giving it a smoked flavor.

The cheese is known by many difl'erent local names. For example^ fresh,

skim-milk, cottage-type cheese is called Queso de Puna in Puerto Rico; and

Queso Fresco (fresh cheese) in El Salvador and Venezuela; also, in

Venezuela, Queso de Llanero, Queso de Maracay, and Queso de Perija,

and other names to denote the place of manufacture.

Fresh cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in Mexico is

called Panela.

Cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk and pressed is called

Queso de Prensa (pressed cheese) in El Salvador, Mexico, Venezuela, and

Puerto Rico; in Puerto Rico, Queso del País or Queso de la Tierra (cheese

of the country, native cheese) ; and in Colombia, Queso Estera (matted

cheese).

In Costa Rica, cheese made from skim milk and pressed but not cured

is called Queso Descremado (skim-milk cheese) or Queso Huloso (rubber

cheese) ; cheese made from whole milk, heavily salted, pressed, cured for

1 or 2 months, and used as a grating cheese is called Queso de Bagaces;

and cheese made from whole milk, salted and pressed lightly, and cured

for 2 weeks to 2 months is called Queso de Crema (cream cheese).

The cheeses diff"er in size. For example, in Panama, Queso Blanco is

pressed in 1-pound molds; in Colombia, Q^^so Estera ranges in weight

from 5 to 50 pounds; in Costa Rica, Queso Descremado and Queso de

Bagaces are pressed in 100-pound square blocks while Queso de Crema

is pressed in 1- to 1/2-pound molds; and in making Panela in Mexico,

the curd is placed in square molds to make cheeses weighing ^2 pound.

More complete descriptions of some of these cheeses are given under

their specific names.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 101

Queso de Bola

Queso de Bola, which is a whole-milk cheese similar to Edam, is made

on a small scale in Mexico, for local consumption. It is spherical and is

cured for about 3 months.

Queso de Cavallo

Queso de Cavallo is a pear-shaped cheese made in Venezuela.

Queso de Cincho

Queso de Cincho, which is also called Queso de Palma Metida, is a

sour-milk cheese made in Venezuela. It is spherical, 8 to 16 inches in

diameter, and is wrapped in palm leaves.

Queso de Crema

Queso de Crema^ which resembles soft Brick cheese, is one of the principal cheeses made in Costa Rica. Whole milk is coagulated with rennet,

the curd is broken up, put into forms, and pressed into prints that weigh

from 1 to 1^4 pounds. It is salted with dry salt for about 3 days and is

cured for 2 weeks to 2 months. The yield is about 11 pounds per 100

pounds of rich, whole milk.

Queso de Crema, as made in Cuba, El Salvador, Venezuela, and other

Latin-American countries, is a rich, unripened, perishable cheese made from

cow's milk heavily enriched with cream. It frequently is used as a substitute for butter. It is especially popular in Cuba. (See Cream cheese.)

Queso de Hoja

Queso de Hoja is a cow's-milk cheese made in Puerto Rico. Fresh milk

is coagulated, the curd is cut into blocks about 6 inches square and 2 inches

thick, and part of the whey is drained off, which may take several hours.

Then the blocks of curd are immersed in water or whey at a temperature

of 150° F., which forms a tough layer of curd on the outside of the blocks.

They are placed on a table and pressed (flattened) with a broad wooden

paddle. Salt is sprinkled on the surface, and each piece of curd is folded

in layers, wrapped in cloth, and squeezed to force out the whey. The

finished cheese is about 6 inches in diameter and 1 or 2 inches thick, and

has slightly rounded top and bottom surfaces. When cut, the thin layers

of curd are distinct and look like leaves resting one on another, hence the

name Queso de Hoja (leaf cheese).

Queso del País

Queso del País (cheese of the country, native cheese), also known as

Queso de la Tierra, is a white, pressed, semisoft, perishable cheese made in

Puerto Rico for local consumption. It is made on farms from surplus

milk and also in several factories.
102 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

It is a cylindrical^ flat cheese and is made in three general sizes: (1)

Small, which usually is made in farm homes and is 3 or 4 inches in diameter

and 2 to 314 inches thick and weighs 1 to 2 pounds; (2) medium, which is

5 to 6 inches in diameter and 4 to 5 inches thick and weighs 3 to 5 pounds;

and (3) large, which usually is made in factories and is 7 to 10 inches in

diameter and 6 to 8 inches thick and weighs more than 5 pounds.

Queso del País usually is eaten fresh, in which case it is soft like Cottage

cheese; but sometimes it is cured, in which case it is hard and somewhat

bitter.

The method of making differs in different localities. In one method,

which is like that used in making Queso de Prensa, neither starter nor

rennet is used, and the curd is coagulated with heat and acid and is neutralized with sodium bicarbonate. ( See Queso de Prensa.)

In another method, which is used in many farm homes where there is a

surplus of milk, the fresh warm milk is put into a vat and coagulated

either with rennet extract or with a homemade extract prepared by adding

calf stomach to warm whey.

The coagulated curd is worked by hand and salted and then is put into

metal hoops to drain and acquire the desired shape. About a pound of

cheese is obtained per gallon of milk.

Queso de Prensa

Queso de Prensa is a hard cheese made in Puerto Rico from cow*s whole

milk. The making process differs in different localities. In one method,

whole milk is put into a vat to ripen at room temperature for about 6 hours,

and rennet is added to coagulate the milk. The curd is broken by hand or

with a curd breaker, part of the whey is removed, and the curd is transferred to a drain table and cut into small pieces. Then it is put into wooden

forms and salt is added, either by mixing it with the curd or by sprinkling

it on top. The curd is covered and pressed lightly. The pressed cheese

is removed from the forms and placed on a rack. It is eaten either while

fresh or after curing for 2 or 3 months. The cheeses are about 11 inches

long, 5/2 inches wide, and 3 inches thick, and they weigh about 5 pounds.

In another method, whole or slightly-skimmed milk is put into a vat and

heated to a temperature of 180° F. Acetic acid (diluted with water)

is added, the mixture is stirred until the curd is coagulated, and sodium

bicarbonate is stirred in to neutralize the acid. The curd is transferred

to another container, cut into small pieces, and salted. _Then it is placed

in a circular, tinned metal form, covered with a circular board that fits

over the form, and pressed for a day. It is turned a few times during the

day. The cheeses, which may be eaten either while fresh or after ripening,

weigh from 2^2 to 10 pounds.

The firm, white cheese known as Queso Blanco in other Latin American

countries, is called Queso de Prensa in El Salvador and Venezuela, and in

some rural sections in Mexico. (See Queso Blanco.)
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 103

Queso de Puna

Queso de Puna, which is made in Puerto Rico, is like Cottage cheese

except that it is molded in forms. The milk is coagulated with rennet, the

whey is drained on", and salt is mixed with the curd as it is worked thoroughly or kneaded by hand. Then the curd is put into hoops about 5

inches in diameter, and it is held in the hoops without pressure for 2 or 3

days, until it is about 1 ^ inches thick and firm enough to retain its shape.

Itis eaten fresh.

Queso Fresco

Queso Fresco (fresh cheese) is a rather dry cheese of the Cottage-cheese

type that is made in El Salvador and some other Latin-American countries

from skim milk.

Rabacal

Rabacal is a cylindrical, flat, rather firm cheese made in the vicinity of

Coimbra, Portugal, from ewe's or goat's milk. Itis 4 or 5 inches in diameter

and an inch thick.

Analysis: Moisture, 16.5 percent; fat, 37.4 percent; protein, 35 percent;

and salt, 2.4 percent.

Radener

Radener, known also as Skim-milk Rundkäse, is a hard cheese made in

Mecklenburg, northern Germany, from cow's skim milk. It is about 16

inches in diameter and 4 inches thick, and weighs between 30 and 35 pounds.

It is made in much the same way as Swiss except that the curd is pressed

less in making Radener. Radener is cured for 6 to 8 months at a temperature of approximately 58° F. Between 7.6 and 8.5 pounds of cured cheese

is obtained from 100 pounds of skim milk. (See Swiss.)

Similar cheese made in Switzerland is known as Magere Schweizerkäse.

Analysis : Fatin the solids, 6 to 10 percent.

Radolfzeller Cream

Radolfzeller Cream cheese, like Mainauer, is made in the vicinity of Lake

Constance, which is bordered by Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. It is

very much like Mainauer and is similar also to Münster. Fresh, whole milk

is coagulated with rennet at a temperature of 86° F. After 3 or 4 hours,

the curd is transferred carefully to a cloth, and the whey is drained off.

Then the curd is ladled into square or round perforated forms, about 6/2

inches in diameter and 4 inches deep. The forms are placed on straw mats

and the whey continues to drain. Some time later the forms are turned.

The following day, the cheeses are removed from the forms and salted.

They are placed on straw mats to cure and are cured for about a month

at a temperature of about 60° and a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent.

While curing they are turned daily at first and later every 2 or 3 days;

surface ripening is controlled by washing the cheese. About 15 pounds of

cured cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk.
104 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Rangiport

Rangiport cheese, which is practically the same as Port du Salut, is made

in the Department of Seine-et-Oise, France. Itis about 6 inches in diameter

and 2J4 inches thick, and weighs about 2^2 pounds. (See Port du Salut.)

Raviggiolo

Raviggiolo, which is an uncooked, soft, sweet, creamy, fast-curing cheese

very much like Grescenza, is made in Tuscany, Italy, from ewe's milk. (See

Crescenza.)

Rayon

Rayon cheese is a special type of Swiss, made in the Canton of Fribourg,

Switzerland, largely for export to Italy; some is made also in Italy. It is

made of partly skimmed milk; the curd is cooked to a stage that insures a

very dry, hard cheese in which there are no eyes. When cured, it usually

is shipped to Turin where it is placed on edge on shelves in dry, warm caves;

some fat drains out, and the cheese becomes exceedingly dry and hard.

When it has reached this stage it is called Raper. It is used for grating.

Reblochon

Reblochon is a soft, French cheese that weighs between 1 and 2 pounds.

Enough rennet is added to fresh, whole milk at a temperature of about

80° F. to curdle it in 30 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of peas and

cooked to about 95° After the whey is removed, the curd is put into molds

about 6 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep, and a 5-pound weight is put

on each. The cheeses are turned frequently, and they are salted after they

have been in the molds 12 hours. They are cured for 4 or 5 weeks in a

moist room at a temperature of about 60°.

Brizecon cheese, which is made in Savoy, France, is similar to Reblochon.

Analysis: Moisture, 53.2 percent; fat, 20.5 percent; protein, 19.3 percent;

and salt, 1.8 percent.

Reggiano

Reggiano, which is nearly the same as Parmigiano and Emiliano, is one

of the sub-varieties of Grana, the hard Italian cheeses used for grating.

It was first made in Reggio Emilia, Italy, from April through November.

It is now also made in other countries, including the United States. In the

United States, and sometimes in Italy, it is commonly called Parmesan, or

Reggiano Parmesan.

Reggiano is made by much the same method as is used in making the

other Grana-type cheeses. (See Parmesan.) Reggiano is cylindrical, with

plane faces; the cheeses weigh from 55 to 66 pounds. It is softer and finertextured than Lodigiano, contains more fat, is pressed, and is faster curing.

Itis cured not less than 14 months and usually not more than 2 years. (See

Grana, Parmigiano, and Lodigiano.)
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 105

Analysis: Moisture, 25 to not more than 32 percent; fat, 22 to 26 percent

(not less than 32 percent in the solids).

Uso Reggiano-Parmigiano cheese, which is made outside the usual source

area, is similar to Reggiano.

A Reggiano-type cheese made in Uruguay is called Colonia Hard cheese,

and a similar cheese made in Argentina is called Trebolgiano.

Reindeer-milk

Reindeer-milk cheese is made to a very limited extent in Norway and

Sweden. Rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of 100° F., and

the curd is cut, dipped into forms, and pressed lightly. Then the curd is

cut into pieces about 5 by 4 by 2^/2 inches in size, which are salted on the

surface and ripened in a dry curing room.

Requeijao

Requeijao cheese is made in northern Brazil. Skim milk, with or without lactic starter, is held until it coagulates. The coagulated milk is heated,

with stirring, to a temperature as high as 175*^ F., the whey is drained off,

and the curd is gathered in bags and pressed. Then it is placed in flat pans,

broken up, and washed with warm skim milk in the proportion of 2 parts

of skim milk to 1 part of curd. The skim milk-curd mixture is then heated,

with stirring, as before. When the curd sticks together and the casein in

the skim milk curdles and adheres to the mass of curd, the whey is drained

off again, and the curd is pressed and washed with warm skim milk as was

done earlier. Heating and stirring of the mixture and draining of the whey

are repeated once more. Then the curd is mixed, from 2 to 2.5 percent of

salt is added, and it is kneaded on a table for about 15 minutes. Hot butterfat or rich cream is added at the rate of 1 part of butterfat to 5 parts of curd,

and the mixture is heated with stirring. The cheese is then molded in

parchment-lined boxes. About 11 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100

pounds of skim milk and 3.4 pounds of rich cream.

Analysis: Moisture, 55 to 70 percent; fat, 8 to 20 percent; and protein,

16 to 20.5 percent.

Ricotta

Ricotta cheese is made from the coagulable material (principally albumin) in the whey obtained in the manufacture of other cheeses, such as

Cheddar, Swiss, and Provolone. It was first made in Italy and, therefore,

is classed as an Italian cheese. However, it is now made in all the countries

of central Europe and in some parts of southern Europe. It is made also in

the United States, principally in Wisconsin and New York. It is sometimes

called whey cheese or albumin cheese; other names for it are Ziger or

Schottenziger, Recuit, Broccio, Brocotte, Sérac, Ceracee, and Mejette.

Cheddar-cheese whey usually contains between 0.2 and 0.35 percent of

fat, and Swiss-cheese whey contains at least twice as much. In making

Ricotta, usually all of the fat is left in the whey, and in the United States
106 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

from 5 to 10 percent of either whole milk or skim milk is added. Usually

whole milk is added if fresh Ricotta is being made, and skim milk if dry

Ricotta is being made. The fat is incorporated in the cheese with the

coagulated albumin, and it improves the body, flavor, and food value of

the cheese.

The manufacturing process should begin soon after the whey is removed

from the original cheese, before it has developed excessive acidity; the

acidity should not be more than 0.20 percent. The sweet whey is heated in

a kettle with a steam jacket to a temperature of 200'^ F. (near the boiling

point). Sometimes live steam is injected into the whey. Sour whey or other

coagulant is stirred in. Much of the coagulated albumin rises to the

surface, and is dipped out with a perforated ladle or removed with a dipping

cloth. The curd may be hung in the dipping cloth to cool and drain,

or it may be dipped into perforated forms or spread on a screen platform

in a vat. To improve the flavor and promote ripening, lactic starter may

be mixed in after the curd has cooled to about 100^. From 1 to 1.5 percent

or more of salt may be added at this time.

At this stage the curd is moist, grainy, and lacks cohesiveness; it resembles

cottage-cheese curd in consistency. If it is to be marketed as fresh or moist

Ricotta, draining is continued or the curd may be pressed for several hours

in cheesecloth-lined hoops; then it is packed in paper cartons that usually

hold 5 pounds. If it is to be marketed as dry Ricotta, the curd is placed in

perforated forms about 6 inches in diameter and 9 inches deep, and it is

pressed heavily for a longer period. Then it is salted on the surface, if it

was not salted earlier, and it is dried in a curing room at a temperature of

100*^ F., or slightly higher. Dry Ricotta is suitable for grating.

Approximately 5 pounds of fresh, moist curd is obtained from 100 pounds

of unskimmed cheese whey with 5 pounds of added whole milk.

Analysis: Fresh, moist Ricotta—Moisture, 68 to 73 percent; fat, 4 to 10

percent; protein, 16 percent; carbohydrate, 3 percent; and salt, 1.2 percent.

Cured, dry Ricotta—Moisture, 60 percent; fat, 5.2 percent; protein, 18.7

percent; carbohydrate, 4 percent; ash, 3.6 percent; and salt (in the ash),

1.5 percent.

Riesengebirge

Riesengebirge is a soft cheese that is made from goat's milk in the mountains of northern Bohemia. The milk is coagulated with rennet at about

90° F. The curd is broken up, the whey is dipped off, and the curd is put

into forms and kept in a warm place for 24 hours. Then the cheeses are

removed from the forms, salted on the surface, dried for 3 or 4 days, and

then placed in a cool, moist cellar to cure. About 18 pounds of cheese can

be made from 100 pounds of milk.

Rinnen

Rinnen, a sour-milk, spiced cheese, has been made in the Province of

Pomerania, Poland, since the 18th century. It derives its name from the

wooden trough in which the whey is drained from the curd and the
CHEESE VARíETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 107

curd is kneaded. It is made from milk that is sufficiently acid to coagulate

when it is heated to about 90^ F. The curd is broken up and heated to

expel the whey. Then the curd is put in the wooden trough, the whey is

drained off, the curd is kneaded by hand, and caraway seed is added.

The curd is shaped in forms and pressed; salt is rubbed on the surface

of the cheeses, they are dried, and put in wooden boxes in which they ripen.

Riela

Rióla, a soft cheese with a strong flavor, usually is made from ewe's or

goat's milk. It is made like Mont d'Or, except that it is ripened for

2 to 3 months instead of a week. (See Mont d'Or.)

Robbiole

Robbiole, which is similar to Crescenza, is a soft, rich, fast-ripening

cheese made in the Italian Alps, especially in Lombardy. It is circular and

flat and weighs between 8 ounces and 2 pounds. Usually it is made from

milk that is skimmed after creaming for about 12 hours, but sometimes

it is made from whole milk. The method of making Robbiole is very

simple. Rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of 90° F., and about

30 rainutes later the curd is cut fine and is put into forms with perforated

bottoms. The forms are about 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep.

The cheeses are removed from the forms about 5 hours later and are placed

on straw mats on a drain board; they are turned frequently. After they

have been on the drain board for 2 or 3 days, they are salted on the surface

and are then placed in a cool, moist cellar for 12 to 15 days to ripen.

Analysis: Moisture, 46 percent; fat, 28 percent; protein, 20 percent; and

salt, 3 percent.

Robbiolini

Robbiolini, which is very similar to Crescenza, is a soft cheese made

mostly in Lombardy, Italy, in winter. It is made from cow's milk or from

a mixture of cow's milk and either ewe's or goat's milk. Each cheese

weighs about 3^ ounces. About 10 percent of acid whey is added to the

milk, which then is coagulated with rennet at a temperature of 60° F.

After 24 hours the curd is cut into slices, it is drained for 3 or 4 hours, then

kneaded by hand into small rolls. About 3 percent of salt is mixed with

the curd while it is being kneaded. The cheese ripens in a few days; it

should be held at a temperature of not more than 50° until consumed.

Rocamadur

Rocamadur is a soft cheese made from ewe's milk in southern France.

Rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of about 77° F.; when the

curd has coagulated, it is dipped into terra cotta forms and the whey is

drained off and salt is sifted into the forms. The cheese remains in the

forms for a day. Each cheese weighs about 2 ounces.
108 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Roll

Roll cheese is a hard cheese made in England from cow*s whole milk.

It is cylindrical, about 9 inches in diameter and 8 inches thick/and weighs

about 20 pounds.

Rollet

Rollotj a soft, ripened cheese similar to Camembert, is made in the

Departments of Somme and Oise^ France. It is about 2J4 inches in

diameter and 2 inches thick^ and weighs about 6 ounces.

Romadur

Romadur is a soft, ripened cheese made in southern Germany, especially

in Bavaria, from either whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It is similar

to Limburger and has the same origin, but is smaller, has a milder aroma,

and contains less salt. There is less smear on the surface during ripening

and, according to some authorities, its quality is better. Whole-milk Romadur is similar to Liederkranz. The cheeses usually are about 2 inches square

and 4^2 inches long, and weigh about a pound. However, there are smaller

sizes also that weigh ^4 to Ys pound.

The milk, sometimes with color added, is set and the curd is prepared

as in making Limburger. The forms often are like those used in making

Weisslacker, that is, they are divided into sections for the individual cheeses;

otherwise, the curd is cut into rectangular sections for the individual cheeses

after the curd is firm. The forms are laid on a screen or mat while the

whey drains off and the curd becomes firm. After the cheeses are removed

from the forms, they are rubbed with dry salt several times during a 12-hour

period. They are cured for a shorter time and less intensively than Limburger and at a slightly lower temperature—in some factories the final

curing temperature is as low as 42° to 45° F.—and there is less surface

smear. The cheeses are wrapped in parchment and tinfoil and are packed

in wooden boxes for shipment. About 12 pounds of cured cheese is

obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk. ( See Limburger. )

Schützenkäse, which is made in Austria, is similar to Romadur. Schlosskäse, made in Austria and Germany, and Harracher, Hochstrasser, and

Kremstaler, made in Hungary, are also similar.

Analysis: Moisture, 48.5 to 55.5 percent; fat in the solids, 47 percent in

whole-milk Romadur.

Romanello

Romanello (little Romano) is a very hard, Italian cheese usually made

from partly skimmed or skim milk. The cured cheese has a sharp flavor

and is suitable for grating and use as a condiment. Itis made like Romano.

The curd often is drained in wicker baskets, and the imprint of the basket

remains on the surface of the cheese. Sometimes, however, it is pressed in

hoops. The interior of the cured cheese is white and contains numerous

small openings. The cheeses are 8 to 9 inches in diameter, 4 or 5 inches

thick, and weigh from 9 to 12 pounds.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 109

Romanello is made from cow's milk in a few factories in New York and

Wisconsin. It is also made in Argentina. It is similar to Romano in

composition.

Romano

Romano, which is sometimes called Incanestrato, is one of the most popular of the very hard Italian cheeses. It was first made from ewe's milk in

the grazing area of Latium, near Rome, but it is now made also from cow's

and goat's milk and in other regions in southern Italy and in Sardinia.

When made from ewe's milk, it is called Pecorino Romano; from cow's

milk, Vacchino Romano; and from goat's milk, Caprino Romano. Romano-type cheese made in Sardinia is called Sardo. Some Romano cheese

is made in the United States from cow's milk, and considerable quantities

are imported from Italy and Sardinia.

The cheeses are round, with fiat ends; they vary in size but frequently

are about 10 inches in diameter and 6 inches thick. A single cheese usually

weighs between 15 and 20 pounds but may weigh as much as 25 pounds.

The interior is somewhat granular and has practically no holes or eyes.

The milk usually is partly skimmed, and it may be pasteurized. It is put

into a vat, warmed to a temperature of about 90^ F., and rennet is added.

If the milk is pasteurized, starter must be added. After a coagulation

period of 15 to 20 minutes, the curd is cut, and then heated with stirring to

about 118°. In some factories, the curd is dipped from the whey into the

hoops, which are circular and lined with cloth; in other factories, the whey

is drained off, then the curd is stirred and part of the salt is mixed in before

the curd is hooped. The hoops of curd are pressed, and they are turned

frequently. Sometimes in Italy the cheeses are punched with holes to aid

drainage; this practice, however, may result in growth of mold within the

cheese.

When the cheeses are removed from the press, they are immersed in salt

brine and later salt is rubbed on the surface. They are cured on shelves

at a temperature of 50° to 65° F. They are kept clean (they may be

scraped to clean them), and they are turned frequently. They may be

colored black on the surface, and may be rubbed with olive oil toward the

end of the curing period.

Romano is cured for not less than 5 months. It is used as a table cheese

after curing for 5 to 8 months, and after longer curing—^usually at least a

year—it is hard, very sharply piquant, and suitable for grating. About 8

pounds of Romano is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 34 percent (usually 32 percent) ; fat

in the soHds, not less than 38 percent; and salt, 5 to 6 percent.

Roquefort

Roquefort, a blue-veined, semisoft to hard cheese, is named for the

village of Roquefort in the Department of Aveyron in southeastern France,

where its manufacture has been an important industry for more than two

centuries. At one time shepherds prepared the curd, but now the milk is

collected and the curd is prepared in centralized dairies.
lio AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

A French regulation limits use of the word Roquefort to cheese made

in the Roquefort area from ewe's milk. Other French cheese of the

Roquefort type is called Bleu cheese, and Roquefort-type cheese made in

the United States and other countries is known as Blue cheese. In addition, there are the distinctive blue-veined cheeses of England (Stilton)

and Italy (Gorgonzola). (See Bleu, Blue, Stilton, and Gorgonzola.)

Roquefort cheese is characterized by its sharp, peppery, piquant flavor,

and by the mottled, blue-green veins throughout the curd and the whiteness of the curd between the veins. Powder containing spores of Pénicillium

roqueforti mold is added to the curd as it is being put into the hoops, and

the veins result from growth of the mold during the curing period. The

powder is prepared by inocculating loaves of fresh bread with a pure culture

of mold; when the mold has permeated the bread—in 4 to 6 weeks—the

interior is crumbled^ dried, ground^ sifted^ and stored for use in the cheese.

Following is a brief description of the making process: Ewe's whole

milk is set with rennet at a temperature between 76° and 82° F. It is

customary to heat fresh milk to between 122° and 140° and then to add

enough cold milk to adjust the mixture to the setting temperature. After

a coagulation period of 1¡Í4 to 2 hours^ the curd is cut, the free whey is

removed, and the curd either is transferred onto a cloth to drain or is

mixed and drained in the vat. Then it is transferred to perforated metal

hoops, about 7/2 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep, which rest on

drain mats on drain boards. The curd is put into the hoops in 3 or 4

layers, and blue-mold powder is sprinkled between each layer.

The curd is not pressed, but the hoops are turned several times the

first day, and two or three times daily for the next 4 or 5 days. Then the

cheeses are removed from the hoops, and they are taken to the caves for

salting and curing. There are many natural caves in the Roquefort area

and additional excavations have been made. The caves are a network of

caverns and grottoes connected with one another and with the outside

surface by numerous channels through which a brisk movement of cool,

nioist air keeps the temperature at not more than 50° F. (often as low as

40°) and the relative humidity at about 95 percent throughout the year,

thus providing natural conditions that are favorable to mold growth arid

ripening of Roquefort cheese.

The cheeses are dry salted, piled in two or three layers for 3 days, then

salted again and piled in layers for another 3 or 4 days—making a total

salting period of a week. Besides improving the flavor, the rather heavy

salting retards growth of slime-forming micro-organisms and foreign molds

and is one of the factors that control normal ripening. When salting is

completed, each cheese is punched with 60 or more holes, which permit air

to reach the interior of the cheese so that the blue mold can grow. The

cheeses are then placed on edge on racks, and they are cleaned every 2 or

3 weeks by scraping and brushing. The curing period is 2 to 5 months,

depending on the extent of ripening desired. When ripened sufíiciently,

the cheeses are cleaned, wrapped in tinfoil, and boxed. They may be

stored at a temperature of 40° F. The yield of cured cheese is said to bcj

nearly 20 percent of the weight of milk used.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 111

Analysis: Moisture, 38.5 to 41 percent (not more than 45 percent) ; fat,

32.2 percent; fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent; protein, 21.1 percent;

ash, 6ol percent; and salt (in the ash), 4.1 percent.

Royal Brabant

Royal Brabant is a small, Limburger-type cheese that is made in Belgium

from cow's whole milk.

Runestea

Runesten cheese, which was first made in Denmark, is made also in

the United States, in Minnesota and Wyoming. It is similar to Swedish

Herrgârdsost (Manor cheese). The cured cheese resembles Swiss cheese,

but the eyes are smaller and each "wheel" is much smaller, weighing about

5 pounds. The cheeses are cured for about 3 months. They are wrapped

in red transparent film.

Saanen

Saanen, which also is called Walliser or Walliskäse, is a hard cheese similar

to Swiss and to Spalen or Sbrinza. It is made from cow's milk in the

Cantons of Bern and Wallis (Valais) and nearby areas in Switzerland,

where its manufacture dates back to the sixteenth century. The cheeses

are 12 to 16 inches in diameter, 3 to 3/a inches thick, and weighs usually

between 12 and 25 pounds. The curd is very firm, and in aged cheese

it is brittle and deep yellow in color.

Saanen is made in much the same way as Swiss except that, like Spalen,

the curd is heated to a higher temperature, it is firmer, and it contains less

moisture; the eyes are smaller and fewer in number; and the cheeses are

smaller and they are cured for a much longer period. They are cured for

at least 3 years and not infrequently for 7 years or more. Much of the

fully cured ( aged) cheese is used for grating.

It is not unusual for a cheese to be accorded great honor in a household

and for it to be kept for many decades. It is the custom to make a cheese

at the birth of a child and to eat portions of the cheese on feast days during

his life and at his burial and also to honor his descendants on similar occasions. It is said that one cheese was kept for such use for 200 years.

Analysis: Moisture, 25 percent.

Sage

Sage cheese is an American-type, spiced (sage-flavored) cheese made

by either the Cheddar or Granular or Stirred-curd process; it is pressed in

any of the shapes and sizes in which those cheeses are pressed. The curd

has a green, mottled appearance throughout. At one time, green sage

leaves were added to the curd before it was hooped. Now, sage extract is

added for flavor; and the green, mottled appearance is produced as follows:

Succulent green corn iá cut fine, and the juice is pressed out. This juice

is added to a small part of the milk, which is made into curd in the usual

360172»—53 8
112 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

way; the rest of the milk is also made into curd, and the two lots of curd

are mixed just before hooping. (See Cheddar, Granular or Stirred-curd,

and Spiced.)

Analysis: Moisture, 38 to 39 percent; fat in the solids (whole-milk Sage),

not less than 50 percent; fat in the solids (partly skimmed-milk Sage), not

less than 20 percent.

St. Benoit

St. Benoit, which is a soft cheese similar to Olivet, is made in the Department of Loiret, France. Charcoal is added to the salt which is rubbed on

the surface of the cheese. It is cured for 12 to 15 days in summer and

18 to 20 days in winter. The cheeses are about 6 inches in diameter«

St. Claude

St. Claude is a small, square, goat's-milk cheese made in the vicinity

of St. Claude, in the Department of Jura, France. The milk is curdled

with rennet, and the curd is placed in molds for 6 to 8 hours. The cheeses,

which are salted on the surface, may be eaten fresh or may be ripened in a

cool, moist cellar. The cheeses weigh between 4 and 8 ounces.

St. Marcellin

St. Marcellin cheese, known in some parts of France as Fromage de

Chèvre, is made in the Department of Isère, France, from goat's milk to

which either ewe's or cow's milk is sometimes added. The cheeses are about

3 inches in diameter and ^4 of an inch thick, and weigh about 4 ounces.

St. Marcellin is made by a method similar to that used in making Brie and

Coulommiers. Blue mold is cultivated on the surface of the cheese, but not

in the interior, and it is not classed as a blue cheese. (See Brie.)

St. Stephano

St. Stephano cheese, which is similar to Bel Paese, is made in small

quantities in Germany. It is made from whole milk and is cured at a

temperature slightly below 40° F.

Salamana

Salamana, which is made in southern Europe, is a soft, ewe's-milk cheese.

The curd is put into bladders to ripen. When cured, the cheese has a very

pronounced flavor. It is used as a spread for bread, and it is also mixed

with com meal and used in cooking.

Salame

Salame (Italian, sausage) usually refers to a large-style Provolone, and

this style is made not only in Italy but also in other countries, including

the United States. (See Provolone.)

Stracchino Salame and Formaggio Salame refer to soft cheeses of the

Bel Paese type.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 113

Saloio

Saloio is a Hand cheese made from cow's skim milk on farms in the

region of Lisbon, Portugal. It is a small cylindrical cheese, 1^4 to 2 inches

in diameter, and it weighs about 4 ounces. (See Hand cheese.)

Analysis: Moisture, 76.3 percent; fat, 1.8 percent; protein, 11.4 percent;

and salt, 2.5 percent.

Sandwich Nut

Sandwich Nut cheese is made by mixing chopped nuts with fresh Neufchatel or Cream cheese.

Sapsago

Sapsago cheese has been made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland, for

at least 500 years and perhaps more; it is made also in Germany. It is

known by various other names, including Schabziger, Glarnerkäse, Grünerkäse, Krauterkäse, and Grünerkrauterkäse. It is a small, very hard cheese

and frequently it is dried. A powder prepared from clover leaves is added

to the curd, which gives it a sharp, pungent flavor and a pleasing aroma and

a light-green or sage-green color. The cured cheeses are cone-shaped, 3

inches thick at the base, 2 inches at the top, and 4 inches tall, and they

weigh 1 to 254 pounds. The fully cured, dry cheese can be used for grating.

Sapsago is made from slightly sour, skim milk. The milk is put into a

round kettle and stirred while it is heated to boiling temperature. Cold

buttermilk is added slowly as heating and stirring are continued. The coagulum that appears on the surface is removed, set aside, and added to the

curd when it is put into the forms. Then enough sour whey is added to

precipitate the casein, as in making Ricotta, and stirring is stopped. If too

little whey is added, the curd will bp too soft and moist; if too much or too

sour whey is added, the curd will be too firm and dry. The curd is collected

in a cloth or strainer and spread out to cool as the whey is drained off. Then

the coagulum that was set aside is mixed with the curd, salt may be added,

and it is placed in perforated wooden forms, covered with a press lid, and

pressed under heavy pressure at a temperature of 60° F. The curd is ripened

(cured) under light pressure at this temperature for at least 5 weeks. At

this stage, it is ready for use in making the cheese. In many cases it is

sold and transported in large sacks or casks to a distant factory where the

cheese is made.

The ripe, dry curd is ground, and about 5 pounds of salt and 2/2 pounds

of dried, powdered leaves of the aromatic clover, Melilotus coerulea, are

added to each 100 pounds of curd. The mixture is stirred into a homogeneous paste, then packed in the small cloth-lined, cone-shaped forms.

About 10 or 11 pounds of fresh curd is obtained per 100 pounds of skim

milk and about 65 pounds of Sapsago is obtained per 100 pounds of fresh

curd.

Analysis: Moisture, as much as 40 to 43 percent but usually much less

(cheese imported into the United States, not more than 38 percent) ; fat, 5 to

9.4 percent; protein, 40 to 42.5 percent; and salt, 4 to 5 percent.
114 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Sardo

Sardo, or Sardo Romano, is a Romano-type cheese made on the Island

of Sardinia. Originally it was made from ewe's milk only, but now it is

made from a mixture of cow's and ewe's milk. When made from ewe's

milk only it is properly called Sardinian Pecorino Romano or, briefly,

Pecorino Sardo. Sardo is made also in the United States and in Argentina.

The aged cheese is used for grating. ( See Pecorino and Romano. )

Sarrazin

Sarrazin, which has been described as a Roquefort-type cheese, is made in

the Canton of Vaud in southwestern Switzerland.

Sassenage

Sassenage, a hard, blue-veined cheese about 12 inches in diameter and

3 inches thick, is almost exactly like Gex and Septmoncel. It is named for

the village of Sassenage, which is in the Department of Isère, France. It is

made from cow's milk to which small quantities of goat's or ewe's milk are

usually added. The milk, usually a mixture of skim milk and whole milk,

is set with rennet; the curd is cut, drained, and molded; and the cheese is

cured in the same way as Gex and Septmoncel. The ripening period is

about 2 months. (See Gex and Septmoncel.)

Scamorze

Scamorze (or Scarmorze), which is a small, soft, mild, plastic-curd

(pasta filata) cheese, was first made in Abruzzi and Molise in central Italy

from buffalo's milk. Production has spread to other parts of Italy, and it is

now made also from cow's milk and occasionally from goat's milk. It is

made mostly in autumn. Like Mozzarella, it is eaten while fresh. It is

said to be very tasty when toasted with bread or fried with an tgg. The

surface has a yellow tint. It is oval in shape, with an indentation and

lappets at the top, for handling. The cheeses usually weigh between ^4

and /a pound but may weigh as much as 2/2 pounds.

Scamorze is made in much the same way as Caciocavallo, except that

Scamorze is not cured. Cream from the evening milk is mixed with morning

milk in a kettle and warmed to a temperature of 95° to 98° F. Starter is

added, color may be added, and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate the

milk in from 30 to 35 minutes. The surface is turned under with a scoop;

a few minutes later the curd is stirred with a paddle and then it is cut with

a harp to pieces the size of a hazelnut. The whey and curd are stirred with

a mechanical stirrer. After the curd settles, the whey is removed and the

curd is collected in a cloth and transferred to a vat. More whey is squeezed

out of the curd; then warm water or whey (at a temperature of 113° to

122°) is poured over the curd, and it is kneaded and stretched in the hot

liquid and then collected in a mass. The temperature of the whey or water

is increased to between 130° and 140° to keep the curd very warm, and
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 115

kneading and stretching are continued until the curd is smooth and cohesive

and will form long threads when it is stretched.

At this stage, the curd is cut into portions and each portion is cut into

slices which are placed in a vat. Water heated almost to the boiling point

(or preferably hot fresh whey) is poured over the slices, and they are kneaded

and pressed with a paddle while they are immersed. The mass then is

stretched by hand and with the paddle until it is very compact and elastic.

It is drawn out into a rope, and this is divided into portions the size of a

turkey egg or lemon—one for each Scamorze. In making soft Scamorze,

each piece is folded several times; in making firm Scamorze, the pieces are

drawn out and wound on a reel. Then each piece is immersed in hot water,

and as it cools it is shaped by hand and then is placed in a small mold.

Later, the cheeses are tied in pairs and immersed in salt brine. They are

dried in air and then are ready for shipment. The yield is 10 to 11 pounds

per 100 pounds of cow's milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 45 percent; fat, 25 to 27 percent (fat in the

solids, 46.5 to 49 percent) ; protein, 24 to 26 percent; and ash, 3.5 to 4.5

percent.

Scanne

Scanno cheese is made in Abruzzi, Italy, from ewe's milk. The milk is

coagulated with rennet, and the curd is dipped from the whey. It is washed

in salty water, then in hot water; then it is collected in a linen cloth and

dipped in a 0.25-percent solution of iron oxicíe in sulfuric acid (in which

part of the oxide or rust is undissolved). The curd is left in the solution

for 24 hours, during which time it is turned frequently. Then the curd is

taken to a dry room, but it is dipped occasionally in a similar but weaker

solution. The exterior of the cheese is black and the interior is deep yellow.

The cheese has a buttery consistency and a burned flavor. It usually is

eaten with fruits.

Schamser

Schamser cheese, which is known also as Rheinwald, is made in the

Canton of Graubünden, Switzerland, from cow's skim milk. It is about

18 inches in diameter and 5 inches thick, and weighs from 40 to 45 pounds.

Schlesische Sauermilchkäse

Schlesische Sauermilchkäse is made in Silesia in much the same way as

Hand cheese. The cheeses are placed on straw-covered shelves, by the

stove in winter and in a latticework house in summer, to dry until they

are very hard. Then they are cured for 3 to 8 weeks in a cellar. While

curing they are washed with warm water every few days. (See Hand

cheese.)

Schloss

Schloss cheese (in German, Schlosskäse), known also as Castle cheese, is

a small, soft, ripened cheese made in Germany and northern Austria. It

is very much like Romadur, that is, similar to but milder than Limburger.
116 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

It is molded in small rectangular blocks, slightly more than 1/2 inches

square by 4 inches long, which are wrapped in parchment with an outer

covering of tinfoil.

Schottengsied

Schottengsied is a whey cheese made for home consumption by peasants

in the Alps.

Schützenkäse

Schützenkäse is a Romadur-type cheese made in Austria. It is made in

small rectangular blocks, slightly more than an inch square and 4 inches

long, that weigh less than 4 ounces each. The cheeses are wrapped in

tinfoil.

Schwarzenberger

Schwarzenberger, which is a Limburger-type cheese, is made in southern

Bohemia, western Hungary, and Austria; it is popular in Austria as a beer

cheese. It is made in cubes that weigh slightly more than a pound. It is

made from cow's milk in the proportion of 1 part of skim milk to 2 parts

of fresh, whole milk. Enough rennet is added to the milk to coagulate

it in an hour, after which the curd is broken and stirred thoroughly. The

curd is dipped into wooden forms and pressed slightly for about 12 hours.

After 4 or 5 days, the cheese' is rubbed with salt and is taken to the curing

cellar. It is cured for 2 to 3 months and is washed frequently with salty

water as it cures.

Senecterre

Sénecterre is a soft, whole-milk cheese that was first made in St. Nectaire,

in the Department of Puy-de-Dôme, France. It is cylindrical in shape and

weighs about 1 }/2 pounds.

Septmoncel

Septmoncel cheese, which is known also as Jura Bleu, is named for the

village of Septmoncel, near St. Claude, in the Department of Jura, France,

where most of it is made. It is a hard, blue-mold cheese, very much like

Gex and Sassenage. It is made by a method similar to that used in making

Roquefort, but somewhat more primitive as Septmoncel usually is made on

isolated farms rather than in centralized plants.

Septmoncel cheese is made from cow's milk to which a small proportion

of goat's milk is sometimes added. The milk, which usually is partly

skimmed, is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85^ F. About 1^

hours later, the curd is cut and stirred. Then, after the curd settles, the

whey is poured off. The curd is stirred and the whey is drained several

times to firm the curd. When it is firm enough, it is put into the hoops and

moderate pressure is applied for a few hours. After 24 hours in the hoops,

the cheeses are salted, and salting is repeated daily for several days. Then
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 117

the cheeses are placed in the first curing room (which is cool and moist)

for 3 or 4 weeks; during this time a blue mold grows on the surface of the

cheeses. Then they are transferred to cellars or natural caves, where curing

is completed in another 3 or 4 weeks.

Analysis: Moisture, 28.2 percent; fat, 31.3 percent; and protein, 32.1

percent.

Serra da Estrella

Serra da Estrella, which is named for the Serra da Estrella mountain

range along which it is made, is the most highly prized of several kinds of

cheese made in Portugal. Usually it is made from ewe's milk, but it also

is made from a mixture of goat's and ewe's milk, or only goat's milk, and

occasionally from cow's milk. It is rather soft and has a pleasing, acid

flavor.

The method of making is simple. The milk is warmed in a kettle with

little regard to the temperature. In most cases, an extract of the flowers

of a kind of thistle is added to coagulate the milk. The coagulating period

is from 2 to 6 hours, depending largely on the quantity of extract used.

The curd is broken up with a ladle or by hand, squeezed to remove most of

the whey, and then put into circular hoops. When firm, the cheeses are

removed from the hoops and cured for several weeks, during which time

they are washed frequently with whey and are salted on the surface. The

cheeses differ in size; the largest is about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches

thick and weighs about 5 pounds.

Another Portuguese cheese known as Castello Branco is similar to Serra

da Estrella.

Analysis: Moisture, 24 to 50 percent; fat, 19 to 40 percent; protein, 18 to

32 percent; and salt, 1 to 5 percent.

Silesian

Silesian cheese, known locally as Schlesische Weichquarg, is made from

cow's skim milk by a method similar to that used in making Hand cheese.

In fact, one style is known as Silesian Hand cheese. The milk is coagulated

hy souring, and the curd is broken up and cooked at a temperature of

100° F. for a short time. Then the curd is put into a sack and pressed

lightly for 24 hours, after which it is kneaded by hand and salted. Either

milk or cream and sometimes flavoring substances, such as onions or caraway

seed, are added. The cheese is eaten either fresh or after slight ripening.

Sîraz

Siraz is a Serbian semisoft cheese made usually from whole milk. The

milk is curdled at a temperature of 104^ F., and the curd is dipped into a

cloth and pressed into round, flat cakes from 4 to 6 inches in diameter

and an inch thick. The cakes are placed in the sun to dry until the fat

begins to exude; then they are rubbed with salt several times. When a

crust has formed on the cheeses, they are placed in wooden containers to

ripen. The ripened cheese has a mellow and compact body.
118 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Sir Iz Mjesiae

Sir Iz Mjesine cheese is made in Yugoslavia (formerly Austria) from

ewe's skim milk. The miilk is warmed in a bottle over a fire and coagulated

very quickly with rennet made from the dried stomachs of calves or hogs.

The curd is broken up with a wooden spoon, then is heated and stirred by

hand. When sufficiently firm, it is placed in forms about 8 inches square

and pressed into cakes about 2 inches thick. These cakes of cheese are

sometimes eaten fresh. However, they usually are dried for a day, then

cut into cubes, salted, and cured in the fresh skin of a goat or sheep.

Sir Mastny

Sir Mastny cheese is made in Montenegro, Yugoslavia, from ewe's milk.

Fresh milk is coagulated with rennet, and the curd is cut, stirred, and

heated to a temperature of 100° F. or somewhat higher. The whey is

removed, and the cheeses are molded in forms.

Sir Posny

Sir Posny cheese, known also as Tord and Mrsav, is made in Montenegro,

Yugoslavia, from ewe's skim milk. The milk is curdled with rennet^ and

the curd is heated to à temperature of approximately 100° F.^ drained,

and molded in forms.

Slipcote

Slipcote, known also as Colwick, is a soft cheese that is made from

cow's whole milk in Rutlandshire County, England, where it has been

well known since the middle of the 18th century. Its peculiarity is that

when it is ready to eat (ripe), the surface softens and loosens and has a

tendency to slip off. The cheeses are either round or rectangular, from

4 to 6 inches wide and 1 to 2 inches thick.

The milk is coagulated with rennet, and the curd is first drained on a

strainer and then is placed in suitable forms to drain until firm. The

cheeses are said to be ripened between leaves of cabbage for 3 days to a

week, after which they are ready to eat.

Smoked

Smoked cheese, which is characterized by the flavor and aroma of smoke,

usually is American-type or Cheddar cheese. Only good-quality cheese

should be smoked. The smoked flavor is imparted in 1 of 3 ways:

( 1 ) A chemical or so-called liquid smoke may be added to the milk from

which the cheese is made, or to the curd shortly after it is cut.

(2) The cheese may be salted with so-called smoked salt. However,

this sometimes gives the cheese a streaked appearance.

(3) The cheese may be smoked in the same way as meat. The smoking

facility consists of two rooms. In one room, wood—preferably hickory—is

burned slowly, in a smothered condition. An opening or pipe conveys the
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 119

smoke to the second room. The temperature in this room should be low

enough so the cheese will not melt—preferably not over 100° F. The

cheese is cut into small portions, which may be wrapped loosely in parchment, and they are placed on shelves in the second room for a day. Then

the cheese is rewrapped for marketing.

Some Italian cheeses, such as Provolone, are also smoked. Some manufacturers make smoked process cheese, cheese foods, and cheese spreads.

The principal ingredient in these is smoked American cheese.

Spalen

Spalen, which is named for the wooden containers (spalen) in which

the cheeses are shipped, is a very hard cow's-milk cheese that was first made

in the Swiss Canton of Unterwaiden, where it is known also as Nidwaldner

Spalenkäse. It is now made in other parts of Switzerland, and also in the

Italian Alps, where it is known as Sbrinza (or Sbrinz) and in some areas as

Sbrinz de Raspa. This type of cheese is made also in Argentina and

Uruguay, where it is called Sbrinz. Like Fribourg and Battelmatt, Spalen

is a cooked-curd cheese of the Swiss type.

Cured Spalen has a grainy texture and a sharp, nutty flavor; if there are

eyes, they are small. When fully cured it is used as a grating cheese. The

cheeses usually are 18 to 20 inches in diameter, 3 to 4 inches thick, and weigh

30 to 45 pounds. Sbrinz from Argentina is smaller, weighing about 12

pounds.

The method of making is not uniform in the difiPerent factories and consequently the cheese is not a uniform product. However, the method is

in general as follows :

Usually whole milk is used, but sometimes the milk is partly skimmed.

The milk is put in a round kettle and warmed to a temperature of about

85° F. Rennet is added and after a coagulation period of about 30 minutes

the curd is cut and stirred with a scoop. Then it is heated gradually to a

temperature of 130° to 135° and cutting and stirring are continued until

the curd particles are about J4 inch in diameter and relatively firm. Then

the curd is dipped into hoops and pressed with heavy weights for 12 to 24

hours. The cheeses are rubbed liberally with salt several times over a

period of 3 to 4 weeks. They are cured in a cool room, sometimes for as

long as 3 years, and in winter they are rubbed with oil. About 7 pounds of

cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 28.1 percent; fat, 33.7 percent (fat in the solids, 47

percent or more) ; protein, 30.8 percent; and salt, 4.5 percent.

Spiced

Spiced cheese is cheese to which one or more spices are added during the

making process in such a way that the spices are distributed evenly throughout the finished cheese. Spices used include caraway seed, cumin or cumin

seed, pepper, cloves, anise, and sage. Sometimes the oil extracted from a

spice is used to impart the spiced flavor. Among the spiced cheeses are:

Caraway, Kuminost or Kommenost, Noekkelost, Leyden, Friesian Clove,
120 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Christian IX, Pepato, and Sage. Bondost, Sapsago, and others are sometimes included in this group. Many of these are of Scandinavian origin

and spiced cheeses are especially popular in the Scandinavian countries.

Spiced cheese usually is hard cheese made by the same general method as

other hard cheeses^ that is, the curd is heated but not excessively, it is

stirred while the whey drains off, it is not milled, and the spices usually are

added at the same time as the salt before the curd is hooped.

In the United States, Federal definitions and standards for spiced cheese

specify that it must either be made from pasteurized milk or be cured for

not less than 60 days at a temperature not lower than 35° F.; that it must

contain not less than V/z ounces of spice per 100 pounds of cheese; and

that if it is made from whole milk it must contain not less than 50 percent

of fat in the solids, and if it is made from partly skimmed milk not less than

20 percent of fatin the solids.

Spitzkäse

Spitzkäse is a small spiced cheese made in Germany from cow's skim milk.

It is a Limburger-type cheese similar to Backsteiner and is made in much

the same way as Backsteiner except that caraway seed is added to the curd.

It is made in two shapes : Rectangular, measuring 1J4 by 11^ by 4 inches in

size; and irregularly cylindrical, about IJ/2 inches in diameter and 4 inches

long. ( See Backsteiner.)

Stangenkäse

Stangenkäse, which is a Limburger-type cheese similar to Backsteiner^

is made in Germany from partly skimmed cow's milk. It is about 8 inches

long, 2?4 inches wide, and 2y8 inches thick, and weighs about 1^4 pounds.

( See Backsteiner. )

Analysis : Fatin the solids, 25 to 40 percent.

Steinbuscher

Steinbuscher, made first in 1860 in Steinbusch, Brandenburg, Germany,

is a soft cheese similar to Romadur. The cheeses are about 5 inches

square and 2 inches thick. They have a yellow surface, and the interior

has a buttery consistency.

The milk, which must be fresh and of high quality, may be partly skimmed

but should contain at least 3 percent of fat. It is warmed to a temperature

of 86° to 90° F., and cheese color and rennet are added. After a coagulation period of 30 minutes, the curd is cut into cubes about 4 inches in

diameter, then stirred and subdivided with a scoop. The curd is warmed

gradually to a temperature of 95° and stirring and cutting are continued

until the curd particles are the size of cherries. Then the curd is transferred to forms similar to those used in making Limburger. About 2 hours

later, the forms of curd are turned, and they are turned again in 6 hours

and again in 10 hours. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms

and salted on the surface. They are kept in a drying room for a few days,
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 121

and then are placed in a humid curing room where they are cured for

about 8 weeks in summer and 10 weeks in winter at a temperature not

higher than 58°. A layer of white mold forms on the surface of the

cheeses during the first 2 weeks. They are washed with salty water and

turned frequently, and when the growth of surface mold is sufficient they

are rubbed dry and wrapped in parchment.

Steppe

Steppe cheese, first made in Russia by German colonists, is made also

in Austria, Denmark, and Germany. It is made in two shapes: (1) Flattened spheres, usually 10 to 12 inches or more in diameter and 4 to 6

inches thick, that weigh from 14 to 25 pounds; and (2) rectangular blocks,

about 10 by 5/2 by 7 inches, that weigh about 13 pounds. It is a rich,

mellow cheese, with a flavor something like Tilsiter, but milder; and it

usually has small, regular eyes.

Steppe is made from whole milk with color added. The milk is heated

to about 90° F., and rennet is added. About 40 to 45 minutes later, the

curd is cut into large cubes and some of the whey is removed; then the

curd is cut into pieces the size of peas. It is stirred and heated to a

temperature of 100° to 104°; after heating ceases, stirring is continued,

as the whey drains off, until the curd is firm. Then it is placed in the

forms. After the cheeses are removed from the forms, they are turned

frequently, salted, and then transferred to a moist curing cellar where they

are cured at a temperature of about 55°. They are washed occasionally

with salty water while curing.

Stilton

Stilton, considered by many people to be the finest English cheese, is a

hard, mild, blue-veined, cow's-milk cheese. It was first made about 1750

in Leicestershire but acquired its name and excellent reputation when it

was made and served at Stilton, in Huntingdonshire. It is now made

also in other parts of England. Attempts to make high-quality cheese of

this type in the United States have not been successful.

Stilton, which is one of the mold-ripened group of blue-veined cheeses

that includes French Roquefort and Italian Gorgonzola, is rich and mellow

and has a piquant flavor; however, it is milder than either Roquefort or

Gorgonzola. Its distinguishing characteristics are the narrow blue-green

veins of mold throughout the curd and the wrinkled, melon-like rind that

results from the drying of molds and bacteria that grow on the surface.

The open and flaky texture of the curd in Stilton cheese provides conditions

suitable for mold growth, so holes are not usually punched in the cheese

as in Roquefort and Gorgonzola. At one time the desirable open, flaky

texture was obtained by preparing curd in the evening and in the morning

and mixing the two curds together. Some dairies still make the cheese

twice a day, but the curds are not mixed.

The cheeses usually measure about 8 inches in diameter and from 8 to

12 inches thick, and they weigh from 12 to 15 pounds. However, in some
122 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

localities, smaller cheeses weighing about 10 pounds and also larger cheeses

weighing 16 to 18 pounds are made.

Originally cream was added to the whole milk used in making Stilton,

usually cream from one milking being added to whole milk of the next.

However, it is now common practice to make "single-cream" Stilton rather

than the so-called "double-cream" type. Usually the milk is ripened

slightly; if not, a small quantity of lactic starter is added. The temperature

in the manufacturing room is maintained at about 65° to 68° F. The milk

is warmed to about 85° and enough rennet is added so the curd will be firm

enough to dip in about 80 minutes.

The curd is broken carefully, and about 10 minutes later it is dipped in

thin slices into cloth-lined draining tins where it remains in the whey for

about an hour and a half. Then the whey is drained off, and the cloths

are tightened frequently around the curd to aid in draining the whey more

completely. Sometimes the curd is removed from the cloths and cut into

cubes, and the cubes are turned frequently as the curd develops the desired

acidity and firmness. When the curd has drained and matted sufficiently,

it is broken into coarse pieces and salted at the rate of 1 pound to 60 pounds

of curd. Then it is put into tinned, perforated metal hoops, 8 inches in

diameter and 10 inches or more deep. The hoops of cheese rest on clothcovered drain boards and are turned frequently the first day and then daily

for 6 or 7 days. Then the cheeses are removed from the hoops, scraped to

smooth the surface, bandaged tightly, and they may be replaced in the hoops.

This process is repeated one or more times, until the cheeses are sufficiently

firm, at which time the bandaged cheeses are moved to a cool, ventilated

room. They are kept in this room until a moldy coating forms on the

surface, usually about 2 weeks; then the bandages are removed and the

cheeses are transferred to clean shelves in a cool, moist curing room. The

mold, said to be Pénicillium roqueforti, gradually develops in the curd. The

cheeses are kept clean and are turned frequently. The usual curing period

is 4 to 6 months, but the cheeses may be wrapped and shipped earlier.

Analysis: Moisture, 33.5 to 35 percent; fat, 32 to 34 percent; protein,

23 to 33 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.

Stracchino

Stracchino is a generic name applied to several types of whole-milk

cheeses made in Italy. The best known is Stracchino di Gorgonzola.

Others are Stracchino di Milano (also known as Fresco and Quardo),

Stracchino Quartirolo, Stracchino Grescenza, and Stracchino Salame or

Formaggio Salame. These are described under their specific names.

Analysis: Moisture, 47.5 percent; fat, 26.4 percent; and protein, 22.1

percent.

Styria

Styria cheese is a cow's whole-milk, cylindrical cheese made in the Province

of Styria, Austria.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 123

Surati

Surati (or Panir) cheese, which is made from buffalo's milk, is perhaps

the best known of the few varieties of cheese made in India. It is named

for the town of Surat in the Gujarat district, Bombay Province. The

cheese is uncolored and is characterized by the fact that it is kept in whey

while it cures and is transported in whey in large earthen containers. It is

supposed to have therapeutic properties.

The making process is simple. Lactic starter is added to fresh, whole

milk (preferably pasteurized), and rennet is added at a temperature of about

95° F. An hour later the curd is ladled in thin slices into small, clean

bamboo baskets that are dressed on the inside with salt. Additional salt

is mixed with the curd. The baskets of curd are placed on a draining rack

to drain (and shrink) for about an hour, and the cheeses are inverted in the

baskets. The whey that drains from the cheeses is strained, and the cheeses

are removed from the baskets and ripened by floating them in the whey,

at a temperature of 75° to 80°, for 12 to 36 hours. Then they are ready

for consumption or shipment. Each cheese weighs about 4 ounces. About

38 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of buffalo's milk containing

6 percent of fat.

Sveciaost

Sveciaost is a Swedish cow's-milk cheese, made principally for domestic

consumption. It is simpler to make and cure than other Swedish cheeses

and often is made when conditions are notjust right for making other cheese.

It is made from whole, partly skimmed, or skim milk that usually has developed more or less acidity, and there is considerable variation in the composition of the cheese.

Sveciaost is made in much the same way as Gouda, and the cheese

resembles Gouda except that it has a more open texture. The curd is cut

to about the size of the common bean and is firmed considerably in the vat,

the development of acidity is relatively rapid, the drained curd is stirred

to prevent matting, sometimes spices are added, and the curd is salted before

it is hooped and pressed. When the cheeses are removed from the press,

they may be immersed in salt brine at a temperature not over 59° F. for

3 or 4 hours, to harden the rind. The cheeses are cured for several days

at a temperature of 59° to 65°, then finally at 50° to 59°. The cheeses

are flat, about 15 inches in diameter and 5 to 6 inches thick, and they weigh

26 to 33 pounds. About 9^2 pounds of cheese is obtained per 100 pounds

of partly skimmed milk.

Analysis: Sveciaost made from partly skimmed milk—moisture, 42 to 43

percent; fat, 26.5 percent; protein, 25.5 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.

Sweet-curd

Sweet-curd cheese in the United States refers to cheese made by the

usual Cheddar process, except that the milk is not ripened and the curd is

cut, heated, and drained rather quickly, without waiting for the develop-
124 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

ment of acidity, and the curd is not milled. In other respects, the process is

similar to the Cheddar process, and the cured cheese is much like Cheddar

cheese but usually contains more moisture and the curd is not so compact.

Such varieties as Brick, Münster, Edam, and Gouda are also Sweet-curd

cheeses.

Swiss

Swiss (Emmentaler) cheese, which is a large, hard, pressed-curd cheese

with an elastic body and a mild, nut-like, sweetish flavor, is best known

because of the holes or eyes that develop in the curd as the cheese ripens.

The eyes often are /2 to 1 inch in diameter and from 1 to 3 inches apart.

The cheeses are about 6 inches thick, frequently more than 36 inches in

diameter, and usually weigh between 160 and 230 pounds.

Switzerland is famous for this so-called King of Cheeses, and a large part

of the milk produced in Switzerland is used in its production. It was first

made, probably about the middle of the 15th century, in the Canton of

Bern in the Emmental Valley (which accounts for its native name Emmentaler) . The industry was well developed and cheese was being exported

by the middle of the 17th century. Only the best cheese is exported, and

it is commonly called "Switzerland Swiss."

Swiss cheese is made in many other countries besides Switzerland, including France, Denmark, Germany, Bavaria, Italy, Austria, Finland, Russia,

Argentina, and the United States. AUgäuer Emmentaler, Bellunese,

Formaggio Dolce, Fontina, Fontine d'Aosta, and Traanen are local names

for similar cheeses made in Switzerland and nearby countries. Gruyère,

made mostly in France, is similar to Swiss but is smaller and cures somewhat differently. Danish Swiss is called Samso.

The first Swiss cheese in the United States was made about 1850 by

Swiss immigrants, and much of it is still being made by their descendants.

Among the hard cheeses, Swiss ranks second only to Cheddar in the quantity

produced each year. About half of the annual production of Í00 million

pounds is made in Wisconsin, and Illinois, Idaho, Minnesota, Ohio, Utah,

and Wyoming are other leading producers. In the United States it is

often called Schweizer or Sweitzer.

Swiss cheese is one of the most difficult kinds of cheese to make. Control

of the quality and composition of the milk, propagation and use of the

essential bacterial starters, and the details of manufacture are complicated

procedures that require the services of a skilled cheesemaker, and its successful manufacture is a factory operation that requires special equipment.

Three species of bacteria are used as starters: Streptococcus thermophilus,

called the coccus culture; a Id^ctohd^ciWrn—Lactohacillus bulgaricus or L.

lactis—C2l\tá the rod culture; and Propionibacterium shermanii (a propionic-acid-forming micro-organism), called the eye former. The lactobacillus and streptococcus produce lactic acid, which aids in expelling the

whey, and they probably contribute to the breakdown of the curd during

ripening. The propionic-acid bacteria are largely responsible for the characteristic flavor and eye formation.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 125

Although there are slight differences between the methods used for making

Swiss cheese in Switzerland and in the United States, following is a brief

description of the general method :

Swiss cheese is made in round copper kettles that hold at least 2,000

pounds of milk, and frequently 3,000 or 3,200 pounds. The kettles are

double-jacketed or have a steam chamber in the bottom. Good-quality,

fresh milk is essential. It is advisable to clarify and standardize the milk.

Clarification increases the elasticity of the curd in the cheese and improves

eye formation. Standardizing the fat content of the milk assures cheese

of uniform composition; usually slightly more than 10 percent of the fat is

removed.

As the milk flows from the clarifier into the kettle, steam is turned on

in the jacket or steam chamber under the kettle, and the milk is warmed

to setting temperature (88° to 94° F.). Stirring is begun, the starter is

added, and shortly thereafter enough rennet extract is added so the curd

will be firm enough to cut in 30 minutes (the first indication of thickening

appears in from 20 to 22 minutes).

As soon as the curd is firm enough to cut, the surface is "turned under"—

that is, the creamy top layer is skimmed off with a wide, flat scoop and

pushed to the back of the kettle, in order to mix this creamy layer with the

rest of the curd. The curd is cut with a Swiss-cheese harp—from back to

front and from side to side—into long rectangular strips about 1 inch square.

Then the curd is turned under from top to bottom with a scoop, so that

which was underneath will be on the surface, and the pieces are cut into

1-inch cubes. About 5 minutes after cutting is completed, the curd is

harped (cut and mixed) until the particles are about Ys inch in diameter.

This usually requires about 15 minutes.

Then the curd is "foreworked"—that is, stirred slowly, either continuously or at intervals—for 30 minutes to an hour or more as it acquires firmness. When it is suflficiently firm, steam is turned on and the curd is heated,

usually in 30 minutes, to a temperature between 120° and 127.5° F. It is

stirred continuously while it is being heated, and stirring is continued for

at least 25 minutes and sometimes for an hour or longer after the final

cooking temperature is reached. This is called "stirring out." As soon

as the particles of curd can be broken apart easily without sticking when

compressed in the hand, the curd is ready to be dipped. Some cheesemakers add several gallons of cold water at this point. Stirring is discontinued, so the curd will settle, and some of the whey is drawn off.

The curd is enclosed in a large, coarsely woven dipping cloth, and it is

hoisted slowly over the kettle with a block and tackle, and the excess whey

drains into the kettle. The bag of curd is then lowered into a circular

wooden or stainless-steel hoop, which rests on a circular pressboard on a

drain table. The curd is pressed gently down into the hoop, the edges of

the cloth are smoothed over the curd, a circular pressboard is laid on top

of the curd, and the curd is pressed from above with a screw- or lever-press.

About 5 minutes -later, the hoop is removed; a clean, light cloth and a

clean, heavy burlap cloth are substituted for the dipping cloth; the hoop
126 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

is replaced; the cheese is turned over and another pressboard is placed on

it; and it is pressed again. This process is repeated at definite intervals for

24 hours.

Then the cheese is removed from the press and, still in the hoop, it is

taken to the so-called cold room (temperature about 55° F. and relative

humidity 80 to 85 percent), where it is salted in brine. The cheese may be

removed from the hoop and placed in the salt tank at once; or, still in the

hoop, it may be placed on a shelf to cool for a day or so before it is salted.

Itis left in the salt brine for 2 or 3 days, the time depending on the size of the

cheese, the amount of salt absorbed, and the rind formation desired. It is

turned over and sprinkled with salt daily. Then it is placed on a circular

board on a shelf in the cold room for a week or 10 days; it is washed,

turned, and sprinkled with dry salt daily.

Then it is transferred to a clean board on a shelf in the warm room

(temperature 65° to 72° F. and relative humidity 80 to 85 percent), where

the principal ripening process takes place. The cheese is washed with

salty water, it is turned and placed on a clean board, and salt is rubbed on

the surface every few days. The eyes begin to form when the cheese is about

3 weeks old; eye formation is controlled to some extent by regulating the

temperature of the room. The cheese usually remains in the warm room

for 4 to 6 weeks; then it is returned to the cold room for further but slower

curing, or to a storage room where it is held at about 40 °.

Much of the cheese made in the United States is marketed after curing

for 3 or 4 months (the minimum curing period is 2 months). Most of the

cheese exported from Switzerland is cured for 6 to 10 months and has a

more pronounced flavor.

A cheese weighing between 185 and 210 pounds can be made from a

2,500-pound kettle of milk. Several cheeses are packed in a round, wooden

box for shipment; the box may contain more than 1,000 pounds of cheese.

Swiss cheese is also made in rectangular blocks, about 28 inches long and

8 inches square, that weigh 25 to 28 pounds.

So-called rindless Swiss cheese is made by a somewhat modified method.

The milk (in some instances as much as 10,000 pounds) is set in a rectangular vat, and the curd is prepared in the usual way. The curd and whey

are transferred to a so-called press vat. Then, in a procedure similar to that

used in making Herrgârdsost, the curd is pressed under the whey into a

flat, rectangular block. The block of curd is subdivided into sections, each

of which makes a cheese. Each cheese is placed in a cloth-lined box and

pressed, then removed from the box, salted in brine, and dried. Then it

is wrapped in film and placed in a box to cure.

Analysis (Domestic Swiss) : Moisture, 39.4 percent (not more than 41

percent) ; fat, 27.5 percent (not less than 43 percent in the solids) ; protein,

27.4 percent; and salt, 1 to 1.6 percent.

Taffelost

Tafl'elost, a rather sharp-flavored Scandinavian cheese, is said tobe a whey

cheese resembling Mysost. Small quantities are imported into the United

States.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 127

Tafi

Tafiis the name of a cheese made in Tucuman, Argentina.

Taleggio

Taleggio, a soft, surface-ripened, Stracchino (whole-milk) cheese with a

moldy rind, was first made in the Taleggio Valley in Lombardy, Italy, after

World War I. The cheeses are about 8 inches square and 2 inches thick

and weigh from 8/2 to 4 pounds.

A starter is added to fresh, whole, cow's milk, and the milk is set with

rennet at a temperature between 85° and 90° F. About 30 minutes later,

the curd is cut into walnut-size cubes. When the curd is sufficiently firm,

it is gathered in a cloth, drained to remove the whey, and then is put into

forms.

When the cheeses are firm enough to retain their shape, they are removed

from the forms and salted—usually in dry salt but sometimes in brine. They

are cured for about 2 months at a temperature between 36° and 40° F.

Tamie

Tamie cheese is made by Trappists in Savoy, France. The exact method

of manufacture is a trade secret, but the cheese is similar to Tome de

Beaumont. (See Tome de Beaumont.)

Tanzenberger

Tanzenberger is a Limburger-type cheese that is made in Garinthia, in

southern Austria.

Téleme

Téleme, also called Brandza de Braila, is a so-called pickled cheese made

from goat's or ewe's milk in Rumania, Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. It

is very much like Greek Feta. Fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 86° F.; the curd is broken up, collected in a cloth, covered,

and pressed with a weight. The pressed curd is cut into pieces about 3 or 4

inches square and 1J4 to 2 inches thick, and they are immersed in salt brine

for a day. The cheeses are cured for 8 to 10 days either in dilute salt brine

in a cask or packed in layers in a metal container, with salt between the

layers. The cured cheese is white and creamy. About 20 pounds of cheese

is obtained from 100 pounds of goat's milk and 30 pounds per 100 pounds of

ewe's milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 28.3 percent; fat, 37.5 percent; protein, 30.0 percent;

and salt, 2.4 percent.

Terzolo

Terzolo is the Italian term used to distinguish Parmesan-type or Grana

cheese made in winter from Maggengo, which is made between April and

September, and from Quartirolo, which is made between September and

November.

260172°—53—~9
128 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Texel

Texel is a ewe's-milk cheese made on the Island of Texel, which is in the

North Sea off the coast of the Netherlands. The cheeses weigh between

3 and 4 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 54.5 percent; fat, 18.3 percent; protein, 20.1 percent;

and salt, 3.4 percent.

Thenay

Thenay is a soft, whole-milk cheese that resembles Camembert and

Vendôme. It is made, and most of it is consumed, in the region of Thenay,

Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. Rennet is added to a mixture of

evening and morning milk at a temperature of about 85° F. About 4 or 5

hours later, the curd is broken up and dipped into hoops about 5 inches in

diameter and 4 inches deep. After whey has drained from the curd for

about a day, the cheeses are removed from the hoops and salted. They are

placed in a well ventilated room for about 20 days, during which time they

will become covered with mold. The mold is cleaned off, and the cheeses

are moved to a cool, moist cellar to cure for another 15 days.

Analysis: Moisture, 30.1 percent; fat, 15.0 percent; protein, 18.1 percent;

and salt, 4.8 percent.

Tibet

Tibet is a hard, grating cheese that is made from ewe's milk in Tibet.

The curd is formed into small 2-inch cubes of cheese, and they are hung by

strings, 50 to 100 cheeses in a group, to dry and cure.

Tignard

Tignard, which resembles Gex and Sassenage, is a hard, blue-veined

cheese made from ewe's or goat's milk in the Tigne Valley in Savoy, France.

Tilsiter

Tilsiter, sometimes called Ragnit, is a cow's-milk cheese that was first made

by immigrants from the Netherlands who settled in the vicinity of Tilsit in

East Prussia. It is made also in northern Germany, where it is especially

popular, and in central Europe. It is a medium-firm, slightly yellow,

plastic cheese, similar to Brick cheese, with some mechanical openings, and

in some instances small, round eyes. It has a mild to medium-sharp piquant

flavor, similar to mild Limburger. Sometimes caraway seed is added to

skim-milk Tilsiter.

The cheeses usually are cylindrical and flat, 9 to 10 inches in diameter,

4 to 5/2 inches thick, and weigh about 10 pounds. However, in some

factories, they are made in rectangular loaf shape.

The milk—preferably whole milk, but frequently skim milk—is warmed

in a round, copper kettle to a temperature of 85° to 95'' F., the higher

temperature being used for whole milk. Lactic starter is added if the milk

is pasteurized or if it has not developed enough acidity, and cheese color

and rennet are added. About 40 minutes later, when the curd is firm, it
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 129

is turned with a scoop, cut until the pieces are about half an inch in

diameter, and cutting and stirring are continued as the curd is warmed to

a temperature of 108° to 115° in 30 to 40 minutes and the curd particles

become rather firm and shrink to the size of peas. Then, after the curd

settles, much of the whey is removed, and the curd is dipped rapidly into

perforated wooden or metal forms that rest on a drain table. The forms

of curd, which are covered to keep the curd warm, are turned every 15

minutes the first hour and less frequently the rest of the day. The cheese

is not pressed.

When sufficiently firm, the cheeses are removed from the forms and

salted. They may be rubbed with dry salt, immersed in brine, or packed

in dry salt in small kegs for 2 or 3 days. Then they are dried and cured on

clean shelves at a temperature of 54° to 59° F. and a relative humidity of

90 to 92 percent. The shelves are replaced frequently with clean ones, and

the cheeses are washed frequently with salty water, wiped practically dry,

and turned. They gradually become covered with a yellow smear that

changes to a reddish color; the smear is washed off occasionally. The

cheese is fully cured in 5 to 6 months but sometimes is marketed in 2 or

3 months. It is wrapped in parchment or tinfoil and packed in octagonal

boxes, 10 to 12 cheeses in a box. About 6 pounds of skim-milk cheese

and as much as 10 pounds of whole-milk cheese is obtained per 100 pounds

of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, from 46 to 56 percent; fat, from 7.2 to 26.8 percent

(depending on the fat content of the milk from which the cheese is made).

Tome de Beaumont

Tome de Beaumont is made in France from cow's whole milk. The

milk is heated to a temperature of about 80° F. and coagulated with rennet

in about 30 minutes. The curd is cut fine, heated to about 100°, stirred,

and put into cloth-lined molds that are 7 inches in diameter and 4 inches

deep. The cheese is pressed for 6 to 8 hours; the cloths are changed

frequently during this period. It is salted and then cured for 5 to 6 weeks.

Topfkäse

Topfkäse, a sour-milk, cooked-curd cheese made in Germany, is a modification of Topfen, the German Cooked cheese. The heated curd is poured

into earthen pots (topfe) ; hence, the name. (See Cooked cheese.)

Analysis: Moisture, 60 to 72 percent; fat, 6 to 7 percent; and protein,

17 to 25 percent.

Toscanello

Toscanello, made in the Department of Tuscany, Italy, is a very hard,

ewe's-milk cheese, suitable for grating.

Touareg

Touareg is a skim-milk cheese made by Berber tribes in Africa, from

the Barbary States to Lake Chad. Sometimes rennet is used to coagulate
130 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

the milk, and sometimes a milk-coagulating preparation made from the

leaves of the Korourou tree is used. The soft curd is dipped on mats, in

very thin layers. When it is firm enough to retain its shape, it is either

placed outside in the sunlight for about 10 days or near a fire for about

6 days. It is turned occasionally, and it becomes very hard and dry. It is

not salted.

Touloumisio

Touloumisio is a Greek cheese similar to Feta. Curd, which is prepared

in the same way as in making Feta, is put into skin bags. After the whey is

drained off, the curd is salted on tables, then placed in wooden barrels

until it is firm. Then it is washed thoroughly and cut into small pieces

which are put into skin bags. Either salt brine or milk is poured into the

bags to cover the curd; milk is said to improve the quality of the cheese.

The bags of cheese are placed in a cold warehouse to cure; they are opened

occasionally to permit gas, which is formed by fermentation, to escape.

Trappist

Trappist cheese was first made in 1885 in a monastery near Banjaluka

in Bosnia, Yugoslavia. It is made also in monasteries in Hungary, Czechoslovakia, southern Germany, and other parts of Europe. It is much the

same as the Port du Salut cheese made in France and the Oka cheese made

in Canada, but there are variations in the manufacturing process.

The cheese is pale yellow and has a mild flavor. Although it is a semisoft

cheese, it is cured more like the hard cheeses. It is washed frequently

during the curing period, which largely prevents the growth of mold on the

surface, and it ripens throughout rather than only from the surface. The

size varies, the smallest being about 7 inches in diameter and weighing

2^2 to 3 pounds. A larger size is about 10 inches in diameter and weighs

about 5 pounds—the usual size of Port du Salut. There are still larger

sizes, weighing about 10 pounds or more.

Trappist cheese is made from fresh, whole milk, usually cow's milk but

some ewe's or goat's milk may be added. The milk is set with rennet at a

temperature of about 82° to 90° F. After a coagulation period of 30 to 40

minutes (or as long as 90 when the setting temperature is low) the curd

is cut, stirred, and heated, in some instances to a temperature of 95° to 108°.

The whey is removed and the curd is transferred to forms. In Bosnia, the

curd is pressed lightly, and the cheese is rather soft and tender. In Hungary

and Czechoslovakia, the curd is pressed more heavily, and the cheese is

somewhat firmer. The ripening period is from 5 to 6 weeks. The cheese

is cured initially in a humid room at a temperature of 62° to 68° and later

in a cooler cellar. The yield is 9 to 11 pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of

cow's milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 45.9 percent; fat, 26.1 percent; protein, 23.3 percent;

and salt, 1.3 to 2.5 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 131

Travnik

Travnik, known also as Arnauten and Vlasic, is a soft cheese made from

ewe's milk to which a small proportion of goat's milk is added. Usually

it is made from whole milk, but sometimes skim milk is used. It was first

made more than a century ago in Albania, where it was known as Arnautski

Sir or Arnauten cheese. Later the industry spread to Yugoslavia (Bosnia,

Herzegovina, and the Vlasic Plain area), and it became known as Travnik

for the town of that name in Bosnia, which is the center of trade.

Enough rennet is added to fresh, warm milk to coagulate it in from V/z

to 2 hours, and it is left undisturbed until the curd contracts and whey

appears on the surface. Then the curd is put into woolen sacks, and the

whey is drained from it for 7 or 8 hours. Then the curd is removed from

the sacks and pressed by hand into flattened balls, which are dried for a

short time in the open air. When they are sufíiciently dry, the balls of cheese

are packed in layers in kegs. The kegs are 14 to 28 inches in diameter and

about 24 inches deep and hold from 50 to 130 pounds of cheese. Each

layer of cheese is salted and pressed to remove air spaces. Usually there is

some whey on the surface when the keg is full, and the excess whey is

removed. The cheese is covered and pressed lightly. It may be eaten either

fresh or after curing for periods ranging from 2 weeks to several months.

The fresh, whole-milk cheese is soft, almost white, and mild and pleasing

in flavor.

Trecce

Trecce is a small, plastic-curd (pasta filata) Italian cheese. The curd is

braided or interlaced. The cheese is eaten fresh. (See Caciocavallo and

Scamorze.)

Trouville

Trouville is a soft, ripened cheese, very much like an excellent quality

Pont l'Ëvêque. The two cheeses are made in the same area in Normandy,

France, and they are made by almost identical processes except that ( 1 )

Trouville is made only from whole milk and Pont l'Évêque is made from

either whole or partly skimmed milk; and (2) in making Trouville, the

milk is set at a temperature as low as 85° F., as well as at the higher temperatures (90° to 95° ) used in making Pont l'Évêque. (See Pont l'Évêque.)

While curing, Trouville is washed frequently with cloths that have been

dipped in salty water, to control the development of surface molds and

smear.

Troyes

Troyes is the name sometimes used to refer to two kinds of cheese of

the Camembert type (Ervy and Barberey) that are made in small quantities

near Troyes, France. ( See Ervy and Barberey.)

Tschil

Tschil cheese, known also as Leaf, Telpanir, and Zwirn, is made in

Armenia from either ewe's or cow's sour skim milk. The milk is heated
132 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

to a temperature of 122° F. in a kettle over a fire. The whey is removed

and the curd is kneaded by hand until it is fairly dry and firm; then it is

pressed into cakes. The cakes are placed in a wooden trough, salted, and

ripened for 5 to 8 days. When a number of cakes have been made, they

are broken up and packed in skins.

Twdr Sir

Twdr Sir cheese is made in Serbia from ewe's skim milk. The milk is

set with rennet at a temperature of about 104"^ F. The curd is cut, dipped

in a cloth, salted lightly, and pressed in forms that are from 10 to 12 inches

in diameter and about 2 inches deep. When cured, the cheese contains

small holes and has a sharp flavor; it is similar to Brick cheese but contains

less fat.

Tworog

Tworog, a sour-milk cheese, is made on a large scale by Russian farmers.

The milk is set in a warm place for 24 hours; then the whey is removed,

and the curd is put into wooden forms and pressed. The cheese is often

used in making a bread called Notruschki.

Uri

Uri, a hard, cow's-milk cheese made in the Canton of Uri, Switzerland, is

from 8 to 12 inches in diameter, about 8 inches thick, and weighs between

20 and 40 pounds.

Urseren

Urseren (Italian, Orsera) is a mild-flavored cheese made in Switzerland.

The milk is coagulated in 30 to 40 minutes at a temperature of 86° to 95°

F.; the curd is cooked for 30 minutes at a temperature of 104° to 122° ; then

it is cut to the size of hemp seeds. The curd is placed in hoops and pressed

lightly. After the whey has drained, the cheese is salted and is cured at

a temperature of 50° to 54°.

Vacherin

Vacherin is a name common to several difí'erent kinds of cheese made

in Switzerland and France.

Vacherin à la Main is made in Switzerland and in the Savoy, France.

It is ripened cheese with a firm, hard rind and a very soft interior. It is

eaten with a spoon or is used as a spread for bread. Cow's whole milk is

set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., and the coagulated curd

is cut fine and pressed in hoops about 12 inches in diameter and 5 to 6

inches deep. The cheeses are salted and ripened. They weigh from 5 to

10 pounds. Similar cheese made in the same region is known as Tome de

Montagne.

Vacherin as made in the Canton of Fribourg, Switzerland is a soft

cheese.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 133

Vacherin du Mont d'Or is made in France, and is similar to Livarot. ^

Vacherin Fondu is made in much the same way as Swiss. After it is

cured, it is mehed and spices are added.

Västgotaöst

Västgotaöst, made in the Province of Västergötland, Sweden, is an opentextured cheese similar to Herrgardsost. It is made in much the same way

as Herrgardsost except that the curd is broken up and hooped immediately

after the whey is removed from the heated curd. This results in cheese

with irregular mechanical openings instead of round eyes. (See

Herrgardsost.)

Västerbottensost, made in the Province of Västerbotten, in northern

Sweden, is made in the same way except that the curd is stirred for a prolonged period after it is heated which makes it very firm when it is dipped.

Vendôme

Vendôme, which is a soft, ripened cheese similar to Camembert and

Thenay, is named for Vendôme in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France,

where it is made. It is cylindrical, about 5 inches in diameter and 4 inches

thick. Rennet is added to a mixture of evening and morning milk at a

temperature between 75° and 85° F. After a coagulation period of 4 to 5

hours in summer and 5 to 6 hours in winter, the curd is broken up and put

into hoops to drain; the hoops are turned frequently. The following day,

the cheeses are removed from the hoops, and salt is rubbed on the surface

twice daily for several days. They are cured in a cool, moist cellar, sometimes buried in ashes. Most of the cheese is marketed in Paris.

Véneto

Véneto, which is also called Venezza and which is similar to Asiago, is

one of the ItaHan Grana or Parmesan-type cheeses. It is cylindrical and

flat, from 8 to 16 inches in diameter and 5 to 8 inches thick, and weighs

from 25 to 60 pounds. The surface of the cheese is oiled and may be colored

dark. The interior is granular, and usually greenish yellow, but cheese

made in the spring may be the color of straw and cheese made in the

winter may be nearly white. It usually has a sharp flavor; in some instances,

bitter. Usually it does not have eyes. It is cured for 1 to 2 years. When

cured, it is very hard and is used for grating. (See Parmesan.)

Analysis: Moisture, 28 to 35 percent; fat in the solids, 25 to 40 percent.

Villiers

Villiers is a square, soft cheese made in the Department of Haute-Marne,

France. Each cheese weighs about a pound.

Vize

Vizé, a hard cheese similar to Romano but smaller, is made in Greece.

It is a ewe's-milk cheese suitable for grating.
134 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Void

Void, a soft cheese similar to Pont TÉvêque and Limburger, is made in

the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is coagulated with rennet at

a relatively high temperature, the whey is removed as rapidly as possible,

and the cheeses are washed frequently with salty water while curing. They

usually are about I/2 inches thick and weigh about lyi pounds.

Vorarlberg Sour-milk

Vorarlberg Sour-milk cheese is a hard, cow's-milk cheese made from

either whole or skim milk. Sour (clabbered) milk is added to sweet milk

at a temperature of 77°, and the mixture is then heated with stirring to the

coagulating temperature of 95° ; or the sour milk is added at the coagulating

temperature. After the milk coagulates, the curd and whey are heated

with stirring to a temperature of 105°; then the curd is dipped into forms.

The curd remains in the forms for about 24 hours, during which time it is

turned several times. When the cheeses are removed from the forms, salt

is rubbed on the surface and they are held at a temperature of about 67°.

Later, the cheeses are placed in a cask for 3 days and salt is sprinkled over

the surface daily. Ripening is completed in a cool, moist cellar. The ripe

cheese is greasy and has a very strong odor and flavor.

Analysis: Moisture, 33 to 57 percent; fat, 3 to 32 percent; and protein,

26 to 40 percent.

Warwickshire

Warwickshire is an English cheese very similar to Derby. (See Derby.)

Analysis: Moisture, 33 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 29 percent;

and salt, 2.8 percent.

Washed-curd

Washed-curd (or Soaked-curd) cheese is a semisoft to slightly firm

cheese that is made in the same way as Cheddar except that the milled

curd is washed with water before it is salted. "Soaked curd" usually

indicates a longer washing period than "washed curd."

The curd is matted and milled as in making Cheddar. Then water is

added, and the curd is stirred in the water for several minutes, or as long

as half an hour, as it cools. Part of the whey is extracted, and water is

absorbed by the curd during this process. Then the curd is drained,

salted, and pressed (usually in daisy, flat, or print styles), as in the Cheddar

process. (See Cheddar.)

Washing the curd increases the moisture content of the cheese, reduces

the lactose content and final acidity, decreases body firmness, and increases openness of texture. Washed-curd cheese does not keep as well

as Cheddar. Usually it is cured for only 1 or 2 months. If it is made

from raw milk it must be cured for at least 60 days unless it is to be used

in manufacturing.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 percent (not more than 42 percent); fat in

the solids, not less than 50 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 135

Weisslacker

Weisslacker, so named because of its white, smeary, lustrous surface,

is a soft, ripened, cow's-milk cheese similar to Limburger and Backsteiner,

that is made in Bavaria. In some localities it is well ripened and has a

strong flavor and is called Bierkäse. The cheeses are 4 to 5 inches square

and 3/2 inches or more thick, and they weigh from 23/3 to 3/3 pounds.

Usually evening milk is skimmed and mixed with morning whole milk.

Enough rennet is added at a temperature of 82° to 86° F. to form^ curd

firm enough to cut in from 60 to 80 minutes. The curd is handled in the

same way as in making Limburger except that in making Weisslacker the

curd is cut into larger cubes and it is not drained so completely. It is

customary to transfer the curd to large molds that are divided into sections

to form the individual cheeses. As the curd settles, the molds are turned

frequently. When the cheeses are removed from the molds, they are salted

on the surface. They are cured at a temperature of about 53° and a high

relative humidity; cool, moist conditions are essential for the proper development of surface smear. The cheeses are placed in contact with one

another for several days after they are placed in the curing room and then

they are separated. They are turned frequently. They are wrapped in

parchment after about 3 months, and the flavor is well developed within

4 months. About 12 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of

milk containing 2.8 percent of fat. (See Limburger. )

Wensleydale

Wensleydale, named for the District of Wensleydale in Yorkshire,

England, where it was first made, is a medium hard, blue-veined cheese

made from cow's whole milk. The cheeses are similar to Stilton in size

and shape; that is, they are cylindrical and weigh 10 to 12 pounds. However, the rind does not have the melon-like network appearance of Stilton;

instead, the sides may be somewhat corrugated because of the method of

bandaging. The interior is white with blue veins distributed in and between the openings. The cheese has a firm and smooth body, rather than

waxy and crumbly, and it is rich and creamy with a stronger flavor than

Stilton. The method of making differs considerably on the farms and in

the factories; however, it is in general as follows :

Evening milk is mixed with morning milk and warmed to a temperature of 84° to 90° F. Starter is added, the milk is ripened slightly, and it

is set with rennet. After a coagulation period of 90 minutes, the curd is

cut coarsely, stirred gently, and allowed to settle for 20 to 30 minutes.

Then it is warmed to setting temperature, and stirring and settling are

repeated. About 1^ hours after cutting, the whey is drained oflf. The

curd for each cheese is tied tightly in a cloth and either pressed lightly in

the vat or left on the draining rack for 20 to 30 minutes. Then the cloth

is removed, and the curd is cut into cubes about 4 inches in diameter.

Then it is replaced in the cloth and again pressed lightly. This process is

repeated until the curd has matted sufficiently and developed the proper

acidity; then it is broken into small pieces and salted. Sometimes the salt
136 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK^ U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

is added before the curd is put into the forms; sometimes the formed

cheeses are immersed in sah brine for 3 or 4 days.

The curd is placed in cloth-Hned forms and pressed. The cheeses are

turned and redressed several times, and pressed with gradually increasing

pressure until the final pressure is about 400 pounds. Then they are removed

from the forms and taken to a cool, humid room to cure. They are turned

daily at first and then every 2 or 3 days and are kept clean. The curing

period is about 6 months.

Another type of Wensleydale, which is made from curd that is cut fine and

pressed lightly, has a higher moisture content and is marketed before the

blue veining appears and before much flavor has developed. The cheeses

are 3 to 4 inches in diameter and from 3 to 5 inches thick. This white-curd

cheese is marketed sometimes before it is a month old for consumption

when it is between 1 and 2 months old.

Analysis: Moisture, 33.5 to 34.7 percent; fat, 31.0 to 33.3 percent; protein, 27.2 percent; and salt, 1.7 to 2.0 percent.

Werder

Werder (or Elbinger) is a semisoft, cow's-milk cheese made on farms in

West Prussia, where it is known also as Niederungskäse. The cheeses are

shaped like Gouda, that is like a flattened sphere, but the individual cheeses

diflPer greatly in size. They range from 10 to 20 inches in diameter and are

3 to 4 inches thick and weigh from 11 to 26 pounds. Like Tilsiter, Werder

is ripened initially by white mold that grows on the surface and later by

bacteria that produce a red tint on the surface. However, Werder, which

has a mildly acid flavor, is softer and not so sharp as Tilsiter and contains

more moisture.

In summer whole milk is used, but in winter the milk is partly skimmed.

Cheese color is added. The milk is heated to a temperature of 86° to 90° F.,

and enough rennet is added so the curd will be firm enough to cut in about

45 minutes. After the curd is cut, it is stirred until the particles are about

^ inch in diameter. Then it is heated gradually, with stirring, to a temperature of 91° to 97°, and it is held at that temperature for about 15

minutes as stirring is continued, after which it is transferred to round, perforated, cloth-lined forms. A follower and weight are laid on the curd in

each form, and the forms of curd are turned every few hours. After about

20 hours, the cheeses are removed from the forms. Salting is begun from 36

to 48 hours later, and several applications of salt are rubbed on the surface

of the cheeses. After salting, the cheeses are dried. Then they are cured

for a month at a temperature of about 60° and a relative humidity no higher

than 85 percent; during this initial curing period, they are turned two or

three times a week but they are not washed, and white mold grows on the

surface. Then they are transferred to a curing room that is maintained

at a temperature of 50° and a higher relative humidity. Here the bacteria

that produce the red tint on the surface gradually develop over the white

mold. The cheeses are fully ripened in about 10 weeks. They are wrapped

in parchment and packed in boxes or casks that hold several cheeses. From

10 to 11 pounds of cured cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 137

West Friesian

West Friesian cheese is made from cow's skim milk. The milk is put

in a copper kettle, and enough rennet is added to coagulate the curd in

about an hour. The curd is broken up, placed in a wooden tub, and

kneaded. After several hours, salt is added. The curd is pressed for about

3 hours, washed in hot water, wrapped in cloth, and pressed for an additional 12 hours. The cheese is ready to eat when it is about a week old.

Westphalia Sour-milk

Westphalia Sour-milk cheese is a Hand cheese named for Westphalia,

Germany, where it is made. Sour milk is heated, with stirring, to a temperature of about 100° F.; the curd is placed in a cloth; salt, butter, and

caraway seed or pepper are added. It is molded by hand, dried for a few

hours, and ripened in a cool, moist cellar. ( See Hand cheese. )

White

White cheese (Fromage Blanc) is a skim-milk cheese made in France in

the summer. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 75° F.

The curd usually is molded in cylindrical forms. Salt may or may not be

added, and the cheese is eaten while it is fresh.

Wilstermarsch

Wilstermarsch, or Holsteiner Marsch, cheese is made from cow's milk

in Schleswig-Holstein, Germany. It is similar to Tilsiter in many respects;

however, it is made by a considerably different process and is cured for a

shorter period. It has a mildy acid flavor and ripens rapidly; in fact, it is

often marketed before it has reached the most desirable stage of ripeness.

There are five types of Wilstermarsch, as follows: ( 1 ) Rahm, which is

made from fresh, whole milk with cream added; (2) Sussmilch, which is

made from fresh, whole milk; (3) Zweizeitige, which is made from a mixture of evening skim milk and morning whole milk; (4) Dreizeitige, which

is made from a mixture of 24-hour-old skim milk, 12-hour-old skim milk,

and fresh whole milk; and (5) Herbst, which is made from a mixture of

36- to 48-hour-old skim milk, 24-hour-old skim milk, 12-hour-old skim

milk, and fresh whole milk. Most of the cheese marketed is Zweizeitige;

Dreizeitige and Herbst are consumed locally.

The milk is mixed in a copper kettle and curdled with rennet at a

temperature of 82° to 86° F. After a coagulation period of 25 to 30 minutes, the curd is cut and stirred with a large scoop or ladle for 25 to 35

minutes. Some of the whey is removed, and the soft curd is transferred

to a large curd-drying box that holds enough curd for 3 to 5 cheeses. The

box is perforated and has a grating in the bottom and is lined with cloth.

The curd is mixed and squeezed in the box until it is rather firm; then the

grating is removed, 2 or 3 percent of salt is mixed with the curd, and it is

kneaded by hand. The curd is transferred to cylindrical, perforated, clothlined forms similar to those used in making Tilsiter. Each form holds
138 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S, DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

between 9 and 11 pounds of curd. The cheese is pressed heavily for 8 to 12

hours; then it is removed from the forms. It is soft at this stage and tends

to flatten. If necessary to control flattening, it is bandaged, and it is turned

daily. After 10 or 12 days, it is transferred to a dry room, and it may be

enclosed in a bladder or membrane to protect the surface. The cheese is

marketed when it is 3 to 4 weeks old. From 9/2 to 12 pounds of cured

cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk, depending on the fat content

of the milk from which the cheese is made.

Analysis: Whole-milk cheese—^moisture, 42.5 to 53.5 percent; fat, 18.9

to 25 percent. Skim-milk cheese—moisture, 59.0 percent; fat, 2.1 percent

Wiltshire

Wiltshire, which was first made in western Wiltshire, England, is a hard,

sweet-curd cheese similar to Derby. One style, which is about 9 inches

in diameter and 9 inches thick, is known as Truckles.

Morning milk is added to partly skimmed evening milk, which has been

kept cool overnight. The temperature of the milk is adjusted to 80° F.,

and rennet is added. An hour later the curd is cut with a curd breaker or

curd knives. It is warmed, with gentle stirring, to 90°. When it is sufficiently firm, it is removed from the whey, pressed for about 20 minutes,

ground in a curd mill^ and.salted at the rate of about 2^ pounds of salt

per 100 pounds of curd. The curd is pressed overnight in a so-called press

vat, which is a wooden form with holes in the bottom to permit drainage

of the whey. The following day the cheese is removed from the press,

salted on the surface, dressed in cloth, and repressed. This process is

repeated once or twice, after which the cheese is pressed continuously for

a week. Then it is transferred to the curing room where it is placed on

boards. If necessary, the cheeses are bandaged at first to aid in retaining

their shape, and they may be inverted during curing by means of a revolving

rack. The cheese is cured in the same way as Derby cheese. (See Derby.)

Analysis: Moisture, 34 to 40 percent; fat, 25 to 28.7 percent; and salt,

1.4 to 2 percent.

Withania

Withania cheese, made in the East Indies, is so named because the milk

is coagulated with rennet obtained from withania berries. The cheese has

a desirable flavor if it is ripened to the proper degree, but it will have an

acrid flavor if it is ripened too long. Its texture is inferior to that of cheese

made with rennet obtained from animals. However, cheese may be made

with withania rennet when, for religious or other reasons, it is not desirable

to use animal rennet.

Yoghurt

Yoghurt and Acidophilus cheeses are made with the special bacterialstarter cultures that are used in preparing Yoghurt and Acidophilus fermented milks. The starter used in making Yoghurt cheese contains Streptococcus thermophilus, Thermohacterium bulgaricum, and TL joghurt, and
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 139

that used in making Acidophilus cheese contains S. thermophilus and Th,

acidophilum. The starter produces considerable acid in the cheese, which

gives it a sharp flavor. Except for the use of the distinctive starters, these

cheeses are made in much the same way as either the soft cheeses, such as

Cream, Brie, Coulommiers, and Camembert, or the hard cheeses, such as

Gouda. The milk is pasteurized to eliminate undesirable micro-organisms.

Usually a soft, moist curd is prepared, molded in forms, and consumed while

it is fresh. In some instances, the curd is pressed in the forms to make a

firmer cheese. Sometimes the cheese is ripened with Camembert mold to

make Yoghurt- or Acidophilus-Camembert cheese. If the cheese is ripened,

the curd must be well drained.

These cheeses are made mostly in the Mediterranean countries, noted

for their use of fermented milks. Yoghurt cheese was first made in Bulgaria

from ewe's milk; it is made.also in Quebec, Canada, from cow's milk.

In Bulgaria, about 3 percent of Yoghurt starter is added to the pasteurized

milk, and it is coagulated with rennet at a temperature of 107° F. After a

coagulation period of about 4 hours, the curd is cut, the whey is drained

off, and the curd is molded in forms in much the same way as in making

Cream cheese.

In Quebec, pasteurized whole milk is coagulated with a Yoghurt starter,

the curd is drained in bags, salted, and worked, then packaged in cartons.

The cheese has a sharply acid flavor, the consistency of fine-grained Cottage

cheese, and good keeping quality for a very soft cheese.

Analysis: Bulgarian method—Moisture, 40 to 50 percent; fat, 25 to 33

percent; and protein, 17 to 21 percent. Quebec method—Moisture, 50 to

55 percent; fat, 23 to 28 percent; protein, 16 to 20 percent; lactose and its

derivatives, 2.25 percent; ash, 1 to 1.5 percent; and salt (in the ash), 1

percent.

Ziegel

Ziegel cheese is made in Austria from cow's whole milk or whole milk

with as much as 15 percent of cream added. The cheeses are about 3 by 2

by 2J^ inches in size and weigh about half a pound.

The milk or milk-and-cream mixture is warmed to a temperature of

95° F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in about 30 minutes.

The curd is broken up with a harp, loosened from the bottom of the vat,

and then left undisturbed for about 30 minutes while the curd mats. The

matted curd is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable period.

Then, for another 15 minutes, the curd is again left undisturbed while it

settles. Then the whey is dipped off, and the curd is dipped into cheesecloth-lined forms, 24 inches long and 5 inches wide, each of which holds

the curd obtained from 7^/2 to 8 gallons of milk. The forms of curd are

turned frequently as the whey drains for a day. Then the curd is cut into

smaller portions, each of which is placed in a small form that rests on a

board. The forms of curd are turned and the board is replaced with a

clean one daily for 8 days. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms,

salt is rubbed on the surface, and they are washed in salty water and rubbed

by hand every day for at least a month. They are ready for market in

2 months.
140 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

Ziger

Ziger and Schottenziger are the German names for whey (whey-protein)

cheese, which is made by precipitating the albumin in cheese whey with

heat and acid. In Italy, where this type of cheese was first made, and also

in the United States, it is called Ricotta. It is known also as Albumin

cheese. (See Ricotta.)

Cheese of this type made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland, is called

Hudelziger. Similar cheese made in the Canton of Graubunden, Switzerland, from goat's-milk cheese whey, is called Mascarpone. (In Italy,

Mascarpone cheese is made by a similar method but from cream rather than

from whey.) Gruau de Montagne is made from a mixture of Ziger and

cream in the Savoy (southeastern France).

In the Province of Vorarlberg, Austria, whey cheese is made as follows:

The albumin is removed from the hot, acid whey and cooled, drained in

cheesecloth, and then pressed in a Swiss-cheese press for 24 hours, with

gradually increasing pressure. Then it is salted in a salt bath, to which

cider or vinegar is sometimes added.

Analysis: Moisture, 70 percent; fat, 4 percent; and protein, 20 percent.

Zomma

Zomma, made in Turkey, is a plastic-curd, Caciocavallo-type cheese

that is very much like Katschkawalj. It is said to contain at least 30

percent of fat. ( See Katschkawalj. )
SELECTED REFERENCES

The references listed below contain more complete information on certain cheeses.

Photographs (photoprints) of selected pages from publications not otherwise available to the reader can be purchased directly from the Library, U. S. Department of

Agriculture, Washington 25, D. C, at a cost of $1 for each 10 pages or fraction

thereof.

(1) ANONYMOUS.

1943. THE ROMANCE OF CHEESE. 52 pp. Kraft Foods Co., Chicago.

(2)

(3)

1947. KNOW YOUR CHEESE AND HOW TO SELL IT. 55 pp. The Bordcn

Cheese Co., New York.

1950. NEWER KNOWLEDGE OF CHEESE. 44 pp. National Dairy Council,

Chicago.

(4) AGLIO, A. DALL^

1914. INDUSTRIA GASEARíA. 312 pp. [Robbiolini, pp. 215-216; Robbiole,

217; Mascarpone, 217-219; Crescenza, 219-224; Quartirolo, 225-

227; Gorgonzola, 229-240; Cacio fiore, 240-241; Pasta filata, 246-

265; Caciocavallo, 248-256; Provolone, 256-262; Scamorze, 262-

264; Provole, 264-265; Mozzarelle, 264-265; Bra, 266-268; Asiago,

268-269; Asin, 269-270; Sardo, 270-274; Cotronese, 274-275;

Grana, 275-294; Montasio, 302-303; Fontina, 303-304; Bitto, 304-

305; Romano, 306-312.] F. Hi Marescalchi, Cásale Monf., Italy.

( 5 ) BEAU^ M., and BOURGAIN, C.

1927. L'INDUSTRIE FROMAGERE. PT. 2, LA PRATIQUE FROMAGèRE. 216 pp.

Librairie J.-B. Baillière et Fils, Paris.

(6) BESANA, C.

1923. CASEIFICIO, SCIENZA E TECNOLOGíA. Ed. 2, 312 pp. [Quartirolo,

pp. 215-216; Crescenza, 216-217; Gorgonzola, 217-220; Pasta

filata, 222-225; Caciocavallo, 222-224; Mozzarella, 224-225;

Scamorze, 225; Provole, 225; Provatura, 225; Grana, 225-238; Fontina, 249-250; Montasio, 250; Bitto, 250-251; Cacio fiore, 259-260;

Cotronese, 260-261; Romano, 261-264.] Unione, Tipographico—

Editrice Torinese, Turin, Italy.

(7) BocHiccHio, N.

1911. MANUALE PER L^INDUSTRIA DEL LATTE E DEI LATTICINL 700 pp.

[Crescenza, pp. 475-477; Reblochon, 477-479; Cacio fiore, 483-

484; Robbiolini, 487-488; Milano, 494-496; Gorgonzola, 504-509;

Mozzarelle, 519-523; Scamorze, 523-528; Provole, 528-530; Trecce,

530-531; Cotronese, 560-563; Romano, 563-569; Grana, 569-585;

Fontina, 600-601; Asiago, 601-604; Montasio, 604-607; Caciocavallo, 607-616.] F. Battiato, Catania, Italy.

(8) FARRAR,R. R.

1939. A SOFT CHEESE OF THE BEL PAESE TYPE. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 522,

18 pp.

(9) FASGETTI, G.

1923. CASEIFICIO. Ed. 3, 727 pp. [Robbiolini, p. 521; Robbiole, 521-522;

Provole, 522; Mascarpone, 522-524; Crescenza, 528-530; Milano,

530-531; Gorgonzola, 532-536; Pannarone, 536-538; Caciocavallo,

546-549; Provolone, 549; Bra, 549-553; Grana, 559-577; Fontina,

578; Asiago, 578-580; Montasio, 581; Bitto, 581-583; Romano,

583-586.] Ulrico Hoepli, Milan.

141
142 AGRICULTURE HANDBOOK, U. S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE

(10) FLEISGHMANNJ W., and WEIGMANN, H.

1932. LEHRBUCH DER MILCHWIRTSCHAFT. Ed. 7, 966 pp. [Limburgcr types,

pp. 751-754; Münster, 754-755; Bel Paese, 755-756; Camembert,

756-761; Tilsiter, 773-775; Gouda, 775-777; Edam, 777-778;

Emmentaler, 778-784; Roquefort, 789-792; Mysost, 820-821 ; Ziger,

821-822.] Paul Parey, Berlin.

(11) Funder, S.

1946. THE CHIEF MOLDS IN GAMMELOST. 253 pp. A. W. Br0ggers

Boktrykkeri A/S, Oslo.

(12) LOGHRY, H. R.

1948. THE MANUFACTURE OF LOW-ACID RENNET-TYPE COTTAGE CHEESE.

U. S. Dept. Agr., Misc. Pub. 119, 14 pp. (Revised.)

(13) ^ SANDERS^ G. P., MALKAMES, J. P., JR., and WALTER, H. E.

1951. MAKING AMERICAN CHEDDAR CHEESE OF UNIFORMLY GOOD QUALITY

FROM PASTEURIZED MILK. U. S. Dept. Agr. Cir. 880, 39 pp.

( 14) MATHESON, K. J., and HALL, S. A.

1924. THE MANUFACTURE OF CAMEMBERT CHEESE. U. S. Dept. Agr. Bui.

1171,28 pp. (Out of print.)

(15) MENGEBIER, H.

1950. DIE HERSTELLUNG VON LIMBURGER UND ROMADUR. Die MolkereÍ-Ztg.

(Hildesheim),4 (30) : 875-877.

(16) MORELLI, L.

1950. MANUALE DEL CASARO. Ed. 7, 277 pp. [Mascarponc, pp. 181-182;

Milano, 182-183; Gorgonzola, 183-185; Bernarde, 187; Bel Paese,

187-188; Caciocavallo, 188-190; Grana, 191-210; Sbrinz, 211-215.]

Ulrico Hoepli, Milan.

(17) PARISI, O.

1947. iL FORMAGGio GRANA. (PARMESAN.) 236 pp. Societa Tipográfica

Modenese, Modena, Italy.

(18) PETER, A., ZOLLIKOFER, E., and HOFER, H.

1947. PRAKTISCHE ANLEITUNG ZUR WEICHKäSEREI (SOFT CHEESE). Ed. 3,

113 pp. K. J. Wyss Erben A.-G., Bern.

(19) and ZOLLIKOFER, E.

1942. LEHRBUCH DER EMMENTALERKÄsEREL Ed. 8, 160 pp. [Emmentaler,

pp. 22-121; Gruyère, 122-137; Sbrinz, 138-144.] K. J. Wyss Erben

A.-G., Bern.

(20) PHILLIPS, G. A.

1944. THE MANUFACTURE OF MONTEREY CHEESE. Calif. Agr. Ext. Cir. 13,

16 pp. (Rev. ed.)

(21)

1944. THE MANUFACTURE OF COTTAGE CHEESE. Calif. Agr. Ext. Cir. 48, 16

pp. (Rev. ed.)

(22) SAMMIS, J. L.

1948. CHEESE MAKING. Ed. 12, 314 pp. Cheese Maker Book Co., Madison, Wis.

(23) SANDERS, G. P.

1951. CHEESE AND CHEESE MAKING. In The Encyclopcdia Americana, v. 6:

pp. 373-375b (5 pp.). Americana Corporation, New York.

( 24 ) , BuRKEY, L. A., and LOCHRY, H. R.

1950. GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR MANUFACTURING SWISS CHEESE. U. S. Dept.

Agr. Cir. 851, 18 pp.

(25) SAVINI, E.

1937. I FORMAGGI DI PASTA FILATA. 162 pp. [Caciocavallo, pp. 26-44, 66-67;

Provolone, 47-57, 68; Mozzarella, 119-122, 131-132; Provole, 136-

142; Scamorze, 143-148; Manteca, 149-154.] Soc. An. Arte délia

Stampa, Rome.
CHEESE VARIETIES AND DESCRIPTIONS 143

(26) SCHWEIZERISCHE MILCHKOMMISSION.

1948. DIE SCHWEIZERISCHE MILCHWIRTSCHAFT. 943 pp. [Emmentaler, pp.

369-385; Gruyère, 385-390; Sbrinz, 390-394; Tilsiter, 398-401.]

Verlags-A.-G., Thun, Switzerland.

(27) SOMMER, H. H., and TEMPLETON, H. L.

1939. THE MAKING OF PROCESSED CHEESE. Wis. Agr. Expt. Sta. Research

Bui. 137, 31 pp.

(28) THOM, a, and FisK, W. W.

1938. THE BOOK OF CHEESE. Rcv. cd., 415 pp. The Macmillan Co., New

York. (Out of print.)

(29) Tosí, E.

1918. MANUALE pRATico Di CASEiFicio. Ed. 3, 832 pp. [Grana, pp. 574-613 ;

Fontina, 614-616; Bitto, 616-620; Montasio, 620-628; Asiago,

628-630; Asin, 631-634; Bra, 634-636; Caciocavallo, 637-643;

Romano, 643-648; Crescenza, 656-660; Milano, 661-662; Cacio

fiore, 662-663; Gorgonzola, 663-673; Robiole, 675-676; Reblochon,

679-681; Mascarpone, 681-683; Mozzarelle, 690; Scamorze, 690-

692; Ricotta, 754-756.] Fratelli Ottavi, Cásale Monf., Italy.

(30) U. S. FOOD and DRUG ADMINISTRATION.

1952. CHEESES AND CHEESE PRODUCTS. Definitions and standards under the

Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Service and Regulatory

Announcements; Food, Drug, and Cosmetic No. 2, Part 19, 41 pp.

(Title 21, Part 19—cheeses; processed cheeses; cheese foods; cheese

spreads, and related foods. Reprinted from the Federal Register.)

(31) VAN SLYKE, L. L., and PRICE, W. V.

1949. CHEESE. Ed. 2, rev. and enl., 522 pp. Orange Judd Pub. Co., Inc.,

New York.

(32) WEIGMANN, H.

1933. HANDBUCH DER PRAKTISCHEN KÄSEREI. Ed. 4, 422 pp. [WcichkäsC

(Gervais etc.), pp. 158-172; Yoghurt cheese, 172-173; Neufchâtel

etc., 173-176; Bel Paese, 176-177; Milano, 177; Münster, 178-184;

Schachtelkäse, 184; Rahmkäse etc., 185-189; Camembert, 189-209;

Brie and Coulommiers, 210-217; Roquefort etc., 217-238; Gorgonzola, 238-242; Stilton, 242-245; Limburger (Allgäu), 245-265;

Limburger (echte, genuine), 265—267; Stangenkäse, Backstein, etc.,

267-268; Weisslacker, 268-269; Romadur, etc., 269-273; Pont

l'Êvêque, 273-275; Steinbuscher, Broiler, 275-276; Liptauer, 276-

280; Tilsiter, 281-289; Werder, 289-290; Wilstermarsch, 290-294;

Gouda, 294-305; Edam, 305-312; Trappist, etc., 312-314; Bütten,

Leder, 314-316; Emmentaler, 316-343; AUgäuer Emmentaler, etc.,

343-345; Herrgârdsost, etc., 345-349; Gruyère, 349-353; Battelmatt,

Spalen, 353-355; Chester, 367-368; Parmesan, 368-376; Cantal,

376-377; Caciocavallo, 377-380; Quarg Ziger, 380-389; Harzkäse,

Handkäse, etc., 389-398; Kräuterkäse, Schabziger, 398-401; Gammelost, 401-403; Kochkäse, Topfkäse, Schmelzkäse, Schachtelkäse,

403-417.] Paul Parey, Berlin.

(33) WILSON, H. L., and PRICE, W. V.

1935. THE MANUFACTURE OF BRICK CHEESE. U. S. Dcpt. Agr. Cir. 359,

11pp.

(34) WiLSTER, G. H.

1951. PRACTICAL CHEESE MANUFACTURE AND CHEESE TECHNOLOGY. Ed. 7,

515 pp. Oreg. State College Co-op. Assn., Corvallis.

260172*—53—10

INDEX

Page

Abertam 4

Acidophilus. {See Yoghurt) 138

Albumin. {See Ricotta; Ziger). . 105,140

Alemtejo 4

Allgäuer Emmentaler. {See Allgäuer Rundkäse) 4

Allgäuer Rundkäse 4

Alpin . 4

Alte Kuhkäse. {See Hand) 56

Altenburger 4

Altenburger Ziegenkäse. {See Altenburger) 4

Altsohl. {See Liptauer) 69

Ambert 4

American 5

American Cheddar. {See Cheddar). 26

American-type. {See American)... 5

Ancien Impérial 5

Ancona. {See Pecorino) 89

Appenzeller 5

Appetite. {See Frühstück) 47

Appetitost 5

Armavir 5

Arnauten. {See Travnik) 131

Arnautski Sir. {See Travnik) 131

Asadero 5

Asiago 5

Asiago di taglio. {See Asiago) 5

Asiago fresh. {See Asiago) 5

Asiago medium. {See Asiago) 5

Asiago old. {See Asiago) 5

Asin 6

Backsteiner 7

Bagozzo 7

Bakers' 8

Banbury 8

Barberey 8

Basketed. {See Incanestrato) 60

Battelmatt 9

Bauden. {See Koppen) 64

Belgian Cooked 9

Bella Alpina. {See Bei Paese) 10

Bella Milano. {See Bei Paese)..... 10

Bellelay 9

Bellunese. {See Swiss) 124

Bel Paese 10

Bel Piano Lombardo. {See Bel

Paese) 10

Bel Piemonte Fior d'Alpe. {See Bei

Paese) 10

Bergkäse 11

Bergquara 11

Berliner Kuhkäse. {See Hand).... 56

Bernarde 11

Bgug-Panir 11

Bierkäse. {See Weisslacker) 135

Bitto 12

Blended. {See Process Blended) ... 96

Page

Bleu 12

Bleu d'Auvergne. {See Bleu) 12

Blue 12

Blue-mold. {See Blue) 12

Blue-veined. {See Blue) 12

Blue Veiny. {See Dorset) 39

Blue Vinny. {See Dorset) 39

Bondon 13

Bondost 13

Borelli 14

Boudarme 14

Boulette. {See MaroUes). 74

Bourgain 14

Box (Firm) 15

Box (Soft) 15

Bra . 15

Brand 16

Brândza de Braila. {See Téleme).. 127

Breakfast. {See Frühstück) 47

Bresciano. {See Bagozzo) 7

Brick 16

Brickbat 17

Brie 17

Brie de Melun. {See Melun) 75

Brinsen. {See Liptauer) 69

Brioler 19

Brizecon. {See Reblochon) 104

Broccio 19

Brocotte. {See Ricotta) 105

Brouse. {See Broccio) 19

Bryndza. {See Liptauer) 69

Brynza. {See Liptauer) 69

Burgundy 19

Burmeister 19

Burriello. {See Manteca) 73

Burrino. {See Manteca) 73

Burro. {See Manteca) 73

Butirro. {See Manteca) 73

Buttenkäse. {See Holstein Skimmilk) . 59

Butter. {See Bel Paese) 10

Buttermilk 19

Caciocavallo 20

Caciocavallo Siciliano 21

Cacio Fiore 21

Cacio Fiore Aquilano. {See Cacio

Fiore) 21

Caciotta. {See Cacio Fiore) 21

Caerphilly 22

Calcagno 22

Cambridge 22

Camembert 22

Camosun 24

Cancoillotte. {See Canquillote;

Fromage Fort) 24, 47

Canned 24

Canquillote 24

Cantal 24

145
146 INDEX

Pagre

Caprino. {See Italian) 61

Caprino Romano. (»S*^^ Romano). 109

Caraway 25

Carré 25

Carré Affiné. {See Ancien Impérial) 5

Carré de l'Est 25

Carré Frais. {See Carré) 25

Carsenza. {See Crescenza) 37

Casigiolu 25

Cascaval de Peneteleu. {See Kaskaval) 62

Castello Bronco. {See Serra da Estrella) 117

Castelmagno 26

Castle. {See Schloss) 115

Ceracee. {See Ricotta) 105

Champoléon 26

Chantelle 26

Chaource 26

Chaschol 26

Chaschosis. {See Chaschol) 26

Cheddar 26

Cheese Food. {See Process Cheese

Food) 96

Cheese Spread. {See Process Cheese

Spread) 97

Cheshire 28

Chester. {See Cheshire) 28

Cheshire-Stilton 29

Chevret. {See Goat's-milk) 51

Chevrotin. {See Goat's-milk) 51

Chhana 29

Chiavari 29

Christalinna 29

Christian IX 29

Clérimbert. {See Alpin) 4

Club. {See Cold-pack) 30

Colby 30

Cold-pack 30

Cold-pack Cheese Food 31

Colonia Hard. {See Reggiano) 104

Colwick. {See Slipcote) 118

Comminuted. {See Cold-pack).... 30

Commission 32

Comté 32

Cook. {SeeCodk.tá) 32

Cooked 32

Coon 33

Cornhusker 33

Cotherstone 33

Cotrone. {See Pecorino) 89

Cotronese 34

Cottage 34

Coulommiers 35

Country-style. {See Cottage) 34

Cream 36

Creamed Cottage. {See Cottage). . 34

Creole 37

Crescenza 37

Crescenza Lombardi. {See Crescenza) 37

Creuse 37

Cuminost. {See Kuminost) 64

Cup. {See Cooked) 32

Daisy. {See Cheddar) 26

Page

d'Ambert. {See Forez) 45

Damen 37

Danablu. {See Blue) 12

Danish Export 37

Daralag. {See Bgug-Panir) 11

Dauphin. {See MaroUes) 74

Delicate. {See Frühstück) 47

Delft 38

Demisel. {See Carré) 25

Derby 38

Derbyshire. {See Derby) 38

Dessert. {See Frühstück) 47

Devonshire Cream 39

Domiati 39

Dorset 39

Dorset Blue. {See Dorset) 39

Dotter 40

Double Crème Carré. {See Carré). 25

Dreizeitige. (6"^^ Wilstermarsch) . . 137

Dry . 40

Dry Jack. {See Monterey) 79

Dry Monterey. {See Monterey)... 79

Duel 40

Dunlop 40

Dutch. {See Cottage) 34

Edam 41

Egg 42

Elbinger. {See Werder) 136

Elisavetpolen. {See Eriwani) 43

Emiliano 42

Emmentaler. {See Swiss) 124

Engadine 42

English Dairy 42

Epoisse 43

Eriwani 43

Ervy 43

Farm 43

Farmer. {See Farm) 43

Farm-style. {See Cottage) 34

Fat. {See Maile Pener) 72

Favorite. {See Cheddar) 26

Ferme. {See Farm) 43

Feta 44

Filled 44

Fiore Sardo 44

Flat. {See Cheddar) 26

Fleur des Alpes. {See Bel Paese)... 10

Fljzítost 44

Flower 44

Foggiano 45

Fondue. {See Fromage Fort) 47

Fontina 45

Fontine d'Aosta. {See Swiss) 124

Forez 45

Formagelle 45

Formagelle Bernarde. {See Bernarde) 11

Formaggi di Pasta Filata 45

Formaggini 46

Formaggini di Lecco. {See Formaggini) 46

Formaggini di Montpellier. {See

Formaggini) 46

Formaggio. {See Italian) 61

Formaggio Crema. {See Italian)... 61
INDEX 147

Page

Formaggio di Capra. {See Goat'smilk) 51

Formaggio Dolce. {See Swiss) 124

Formaggio Duro. {See Nostrale)... 85

Formaggio Pecorino. {See Pecorino) 89

Formaggio Salame. (iS*^^ Salame). . 112

Formaggio Tenero. {See Nostrale) . 85

Fourme. {See Cantal) 24

Fourme d'Ambert. {See Ambert). . 4

French Cream Cheese. {See Fromage à la Crème) 47

Fresa 46

Fresco. {See Milano) 76

Fresh. {See Nägeles) 82

Fribourg 46

Friesian Clove 46

Fromage à la Crème 47

Fromage à la Pie. {See Farm) 43

Fromage Blanc. {See White) 137

Fromage Bleu. {See Bleu) 12

Fromage de Boîte. {See Box [Soft]). 15

Fromage de Bourgogne. {See Burgundy) 19

Fromage de Chèvre. {See St. Marcellin) 112

Fromage de Foin. {See Hay) 57

Fromage de Melun. {See Brie).... 17

Fromage de Neufchâtel. {See Neufchâtel) 83

Fromage de Troyes. (6*^^ Barberey). 8

Fromage Double Crème. {See

Carré) 25

Fromagère. {See Canquillote) 24

Fromage Fort 47

Fromage Mou. {See Maquee) 74

Fromage Persillé. {See Bleu) 12

Frühstück 47

Ftinoporino. {See Liptauer) 69

Gaiskäsli 47

Gammelost 48

Gautrias 49

Gavot 49

Geheimrath 49

Geitmysost. {See Gjetost) 50

Gérardmer. {See Géromé) 49

Géromé 49

Gex 49

Gex Bressans. {See Bleu) 12

Gislev 50

Gjetost 50

Glarnerkäse. {See Sapsago) 113

Gloire des Montagnes. {See

Damen) 37

Gloucester 50

Glumse 51

Goat's-milk ' 51

Gomolya. {See Liptauer) 69

Gomost 51

Gorgonzola 51

Gorgonzola dolce. {See Pannarone) 87

Gouda 53

Gournay 53

Gournay fleuri. {See Gournay).... 53

Goya , 54

Page

Grana 54

Grana Bagozzo. {See Bagozzo).... 7

Granular 54

Gratairon. {See Goat's-milk)...... 51

Grated 55

Grating-type Monterey. {See Monterey) 79

Gray 55

Greyerzerkäse. {See Gruyère) 55

Groyer. {See Gruyère) 55

Gruau de Montagne. {See Ziger). . 140

Grünerkäse. {See Sapsago) 113

Grünerkrauterkäse. (iS^^ Sapsago). 113

Gruyère 55

Guiole. {See Laguiole) 65

Güssing 56

Hand ". ... 56

Harracher. {See Romadur) 108

Harzkäse 57

Hauskäse 57

Hay 57

Herbst. {See W ilstermarsch) 137

Herkimer 57

Herrgârdsost 58

Hervé 58

High-moisture Jack 79

Hochstrasser. {See Romadur) 108

Hohenburg. {See Box [Firm]) 15

Hohenheimer. {See Box [Soft]) 15

Holstein Dairy. {See Leather) ' 66

Holstein Gesundheitskäse. {See

Holstein Health) 58

Holstein Health 58

Holstein Skim-milk 59

Holsteiner Magerkäse. {See Holstein Skim-milk) 59

Holsteiner Marsch. {See W ilstermarsch) 137

Hop 59

Hopfen. {See Hop) 59

Hudelziger. {See Ziger) 140

Hvid Gjetost 60

Iglesias. {See Pecorino) 89

Ihlefeld. {See Hand) 56

Ilha 60

incanestrato 60

Invernengo. {See Italian) 61

Isigny 60

Island of Orléans 60

Italian 61

Jack. {See Monterey) 79

Jochberg 62

Josephine 62

Jura Bleu. {See Septmoncel) 116

Kajmak 62

Karab. {See Eriwani) 43

Kareish 62

Karut 62

Kasach. {See Eriwani; Ossetin). . . 43, 86

Kaskaval 62

Kasseri 63

Katschkawalj 63

Katzenkopf. {See Edam) 41

Kefalotyi 63

Kirgischerkäse. {See Krutt) 64

Kjarsgaard 63
148 INDEX

Page

Klencz. {See Liptauer) 69

Kloster 63

Klosterkäse. {See Kloster) 63

Knaost. {See Pultost) 98

Kochkäse. {See Cooked) 32

Komijne Kaas. {See Leyden) 67

Kommenost. {See Kuminost) 64

Königskäse. {See Bel Paese) 10

Kopanisti 63

Koppen 64

Kosher 64

Kosher Gouda. {See Kosher) 64

Krauterkäse. {See Hop; Sapsago). 59,113

Kremstaler. {See Romadur) 108

64

64

64

43

65

65

51

65

69

66

66

74

Krutt

Kühbacher

Kuminost

Kurini. {See Eriwani)

Labneh

Laguiole

Lamothe. {See Goat's-milk).

Lancashire

Landoch. {See Liptauer) . . .

Langres

Lapland

Larron. {See MaroUes).

Leaf. {See Tschil) 131

Leather

Leder. {See Leather)

Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile

d'Orléans. {See Island of Orléans).

Leicester

Leonessa, {See Pecorino)

Lescin

Leyden

Liederkranz

Limburger

Liptauer

Liptoi. {See Liptauer)

Livarot

Livlander. {See Hand)

Loaf

Lodigiano

Lombardo

Longhorn. {See Cheddar)

Lorraine

Lüneberg

Maçonnais • • Macqueline

Magere Schweizerkäse. {See Radener

Maggengo. {See Italian)

Maigre. {See Farm)

Maiie

Maile Pener

Mainauer

Mainzer Hand

Mainzer Handkäse. {See Mainzer

Hand)

Majocchino. {See Incanestrato) . . .

Malakoif

Manbollen. {See Edam)

Manor. {See Herrgârdsost)

Manteca

Manteche. {See Manteca)

Manur

66

66

60

67

89

67

67

68

68

69

69

70

56

71

71

71

26

71

72

72

72

103

61

43

72

72

73

73

73

60

73

41

58

73

73

74

Maquee

Marches

Marienhofer

Märkisch Hand

Maroilles. {See Marolles)

Marolles

Mascarpone

Mecklenburg Skim

Mejette. {See Ricotta)

Melun

Mesitra

Midget Fontina. {See Fontina)

Mignot

Milano

Mintzitra

Mitzithra

Modena

Moliterno

Moncenisio

Mondsee. {See Box [Firm])

Mondseer Schachtelkäse

Mondseer Schlosskäse. {See Mondseer Schachtelkäse)

Monk's Head. {See Bellelay)

Monostorer

Montasio

Montavoner

Mont Cenis

Mont d'Or

Monte. {See Modena)

Monterey ;

Monthéry

Montpellier. {See Italian)

Mou. {See Farm)

Mozarinelli

Mozzarella

Mrsav. {See Sir Posny)

Muenster. {See Münster)

Münster

Mysost

Nägeles

Natural Rindless Loaf

Nessel •

Neufchâtel

Neufchâtel frais. {See Neufchâtel) .

Neusohl. {See Liptauer)

Nidwaldner Spalenkäse. {See

Spalen)

Niederungskäse. {See Werder)....

Nieheimer

Noekkelost

Nögelost. {See Noekkelost)

Nostrale

Oka

Old Heidelberg

Olivet

Olmützer Bierkäse. {See Hand), . .

Olmützer Quargel

Orsera. {See Urseren)

Oschtjepek

Oschtjepka. {See Oschtjepek)

Ossetin ,

Ovcji Sir

Packaged. {See Natural Rindless

Loaf)

Pagiia

Page

74

74

74

74

74

74

75

75

105

75

75

45

76

76

76

76

76

77

77

15

77

77

9

77

77

78

78

78

76

79

80

61

43

80

80

118

81

81

81

82

82

83

83

83

69

119

136

84

84

84

85

85

85

85

56

86

132

86

86

86

86

82

86
INDEX 149

Pago

Panedda. {See Gasigiolu)

Panela. {See Queso Blanco)

Panir. {See Surati)

Pannarone

Parenica

Parenitza. {See Parenica)

Parmesan

Parmigiano

Pasta Filata

Pasteurized Process. {See Process)..

Pastuerized Process Blended. {See

Process Blended)

Pasteurized Process Cheese Food.

{See Process Cheese Food)

Pasteurized Process Cheese Spread.

{See Process Cheese Spread)

Patagras

Pecorino

Pecorino di Asiago. {See Asiago). .

Pecorino Dolce. {See Pecorino)...

Pecorino Incanestrato. {See Incanestrato)

Pecorino Moliterno. {See Moliterno).

Pecorino Romano. {See Pecorino;

Romano)

Pecorino Sardo. {See Pecorino

Sardo)

Pecorino Tuscana. {See Pecorino).

Peneteleu

Peneteleu-Burduf. {See Kaskaval).

Pennsylvania Pot. {See Cooked). ..

Pepato

Pera di vacca. {See Casigiolu;

Italian)

Petit Carré. {See Ancien Impérial).

Petit Moule. {See Brie)

Petit Suisse

Pfister

Picnic. {See Cheddar)

Pickled

Pie

Pimento

Pineapple

Piora

Plastic-curd. {See Pasta Filata)

Poitiers^ {See Goat's-milk)

Pont l'Evêque

Poona

Popcorn. {See Cottage)

Port du Salut

Port Salut. {See Port du Salut)

Pot. {See Cottage; Mitzithra)

Potato

Potted. {See Cold-pack)

Prato

Prattigau

Pressed. {See Farm)

Prestost

Primost. {See Mysost)

Process

Process Blended

Process Cheese Food

Process Cheese Spread

Process Pimento. {See Process). ...

Provatura

Page

87

25

99

123

87

87

87

87

88

89

95

96

96

97

89

89

5

89

60

77

89,109

89, 114

89

89

62

32

90

25,61

17

90

90

26

90

91

91

91

91

89

51

92

93

34

93

93

34,76

94

30

94

94

43

94

81

95

96

96

97

95

97

Page

Providence 97

Provole 97

Provoletti. {See Provolone) 97

Provoloncini, {See Provolone) 97

Provolone 97

Provolone affetale. (5*^^ Provolone). 97

Provolone giganti. {See Provolone). 97

Provolotini. {See Provolone) 97

Puglia. {See Pecorino) 89

Pultost 98

Quacheq 99

Quadratkäse. {See Backsteiner) 7

Quardo. {See Milano) 76

Quartirolo 99

Queijo Prato. {See Prato) 94

Queso Anejo 99

Queso Blanco 99

Queso de Bagaces. {See Queso

Blanco) 99

Queso de Bola 101

Queso de Cavallo 101

Queso de Cincho 101

Queso de Crema 101

Queso de Hoja 101

Queso de la Tierra. {See Queso del

País) 101

Queso de Llanero. {See Queso

Blanco) 99

Queso del País 101

Queso de Mano. {See Hand) 56

Queso de Maracay {See Queso

Blanco) 99

Queso de Palma Metida {See

(Queso de Cincho) 101

Queso de Perija. {See Queso

Blanco) 99

Queso de Prensa 102

Queso de Puna 103

Queso Descremado. {See Queso

Blanco) 99

Queso Enchilado. {See Queso

Anejo) 99

Queso Estera. {See Queso Blanco). 99

Queso Fresco 103

Queso Huloso. (^^í? Queso Blanco). 99

Queyras. {See Champoléon) 26

Rabacal 103

Radener 103

Radolfzeller Cream 103

Ragnit. {See Tilsiter) 128

Rahm. {See Wilstermarsch) 137

Ramost. {See Pultost) 98

Rangiport 104

Raper. {See Rayon) 104

Raschera. {See Nostrale) 85

Raviggiolo 104

Rayon 104

Reblochon 104

Recuit. {See Ricotta) 105

Reggiano 104

Reggiano Parmesan. {See Reggiano) 104

Reindeer-milk 105

Requeijäo . 105

Rheinwald. {See Schamser) 115

Ricotta 105
150 INDEX

Page

Riesengebirge 106

Rindless. {See Natural Rindless

Loaf) 82

Rinnen 106

Rióla 107

Robbiole 107

Robbiolini. 107

Rocamadur 107

Roll 108

Rollot 108

Romadur 108

Romanello 108

Romano 109

Roquefort 109

Royal Brabant Ill

Rundkäse, Skim-milk. {See Radener) 103

Runesten Ill

Saaland Pfarr. {See Prestost) 94

Saanen Ill

Sage Ill

St. Benoit 112

St. Claude 112

St. Flour. {See Bleu) 12

St. Marcellin 112

St. Paulin. {See Port du Salut) 93

St. Rémy. {See Pont l'Évêque).... 92

St. Stephano 112

Salamana 112

Salame 112

Salame giganti. {See Provolone). . 97

Salamini. {See Provolone) 97

Salmistra. {See Asin) 6

Saloio 113

Samso. {See Swiss) 124

Sandwich Nut 113

Sapsago 113

Sardinian Pecorino Romano. {See

Sardo) 114

Sardo 114

Sardo Romano. {See Pecorino;

Sardo) 89, 114

Sarrazin 114

Sassenage 114

Satz. {See Hand) 56

Savoia. {See Bei Paese) 10

Sbrinz. {See Italian; Spalen) .... 61, 119

Sbrinza. {See Spalen) 119

Sbrinz de Raspa. {See Spalen).... 119

Scamorze 114

Scanno 115

Scarmorze. {See Scamorze) 114

Schabziger. {See Sapsago) 113

Schachtelkäse. {See Box [Soft])... 15

Schamser 115

Schlesische Sauermilchkäse 115

Schlesische Weichquarg. {See Silesian) 117

Schloss 115

Schlosskäse. {See Schloss) 115

Schmierkäse. {See Cottage) 34

Schönland. {See Bei Paese) 10

Schottengsied 116

Schottenziger. {See Ziger) 140

Schützenkäse 116

Schwarzenberger 116

Page

Schweizer. {See Swiss) 124

Sénecterre 116

Septmoncel 11*6

Sérac. {See Ricotta) 105

Serra da Estrella 117

Siciliano Pepato. {See Pepato).... 90

Siebenburger. {See Liptauer) 69

Silesian 117

Silesian Hand. {See Silesian) 117

Siraz.... 117

Sir Iz Mjesine 118

Sir Mastny 118

Sir Posny 118

Skim-milk Rundkäse. {See Radener) 103

Slipcote 118

Smoked 118

Soaked-curd. {See Washed-curd).. 134

Spalen 119

Sperrkäse. {See Dry) 40

Spiced 119

Spitzkäse 120

Stangenkäse 120

Steinbuscher 120

Steppe 121

Stilton 121

Stirred-curd. {See Granular) 54

Stracchino 122

Stracchino Grescenza. {See Grescenza) 37

Stracchino di Gorgonzola. {See

Gorgonzola) 51

Stracchino di Gorgonzola bianco.

{See Pannarone) 87

Stracchino di Milano. {See Milano) 76

Stracchino Quartirolo. {See Milano) 76

Stracchino Salame. {See Salame).. 112

Styria 122

Surati 123

Sussmilch. (6*^^ Wilstermarsch). . . 137

Sveciaost 123

Sweet-curd 123

Sweitzei. {See Swiss) 124

Swiss 124

Taffelost 126

Tafi 127

Taleggio 127

Tali. {See Eriwani) 43

Tamie 127

Tanzenberger 127

Téleme 127

Telpanir. {See Tschil) 131

Tempête. {See Ganquillote) 24

Terzolo 127

Tête de Maure. {See Edam) 41

Tête de Moine. {See Bellelay).... 9

Texel 128

Thenay 128

Thraanen. {See Swiss) 124

Thuringia Caraway. {See Hand). . 56

Tibet 128

Tignard 128

Tilsiter 128

Tome de Beaumont 129
INDEX 151

Page

Tome de Montagne. {See Vacherin) 132

Topfen. {See Cooked) 32

Topfkäse 129

Tord. (Ä^SirPosny) 118

Toscanello 129

Touareg 129

Touloumisio 130

Trappist 130

Travnik 131

Trebolgiano. {See Reggiano) 104

Trecce 131

Trockenkäse. {See Dry) 40

Trouville 131

Troyes.. 131

Truckles. {See Wiltshire) 138

TschU 131

Tuile de Flandre. {See MaroUes) . . 74

Tuschinsk. {See Ossetin) 86

TwdrSir 132

Twin. {See Cheddar) 26

Tworog 132

Uri.. 132

Urseren 132

Uso Reggiano-Parmigiano. {See

Reggiano) 104

Vacchino. {See Italian) 61

Vacchino Romano. {See Romano). 109

Vachelin. {See Gruyère) 55

Vacherin 132

Vacherin à la Main. {See Vacherin) 132

Vacherin du Mont d'Or. {See

Vacherin) 132

Vacherin Fondu. {See Vacherin). . 132

. Västerbottensost. {See Västgotaöst). 133

Västgotaöst 133

Vendôme 133

Véneto 133

Venezza. {See Véneto) 133

Page

ViUiers 133

Viterbo. {See Pecorino) 89

Vittoria. {See Bel Paese) 10

Vizé 133

Vlasic. {See Travnik) 131

Void 134

Vorarlberg Sour-milk 134

Walliser. {See Saanen) 111

Walliskäse. {See Saanen) 111

Warwickshire 134

Washed-curd 134

Water. {See Asin) 6

Weihenstephan. C^*^^ Box [Firm]) . 15

Weisslacker 135

Wensleydale 135

Werder 136

West Friesian 137

Westphalia Sour-milk 137

Whey. (6'^^Mysost;Ricotta;Ziger). 81,

105,140

White 137

Whole-milk Monterey. {See Monterey) 79

Wilstermarsch 137

Wiltshire 138

Withania 138

Woriener. {See Brioler) 19

Yoghurt 138

York. {See Cambridge) 22

Yorkshire-Stiltoni {See Cotherstone) 33

Young America. {See Cheddar) . . 26

Ziegel 139

Ziegenkäse. {See Goat's-milk).... 51

Ziger 140

Zips. {See Liptauer) 69

Zomma 140

Zweiteitige. (6'gg Wilstermarsch). . 137

Zwirn. {See Tschil) 131

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