fl.. I c

First Aid fot ' '

Flooded Homes

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Agriculture Handbook No. 38

Revision of AIS-75

Issued April 1952

Washington, D. C.
HELP WHEN NEEDED

FLOODS have alwaj's plagued mankind. Modern farms are particiilarl}' vnhieraMe, and no eltort should be spared to ]n-oteet and rehabilitate them. In VX'>7, tloods in the Mississippi Valley cost 22.5 lives and

destroyed or daiuaged 50(),()()() homes. jMore recent floods, such as those

in the Kaw and Missouri River Valleys, took their toll in lives, and cost

billions in crops and li\estock destroyed, buildings ruined, and land

resources lost.

To those who are returning to houies and farms that have been flooded—

to clear and rebuild and try to retrieve their losses—it is hoped that this

booklet will bring important help. Bureaus of the United States Department of Agriculture and those State agricultural colleges experienced in

rehabilitation work following floods have contributed information. Suggestions by the United States Pnblii' Health Service and other Federal

agencies, the American Bed Cross, and safety organizations are also

included.

To cover a wide range of needs, the information is necessarily brief and

limited to basic principles. Good judgment applied on the ground will

modify some of the leconuueudations. Instructions from those in charge

of relief and i-ecovery work will take pi-ecedence over them. The reader

should consult county agricidtural agents, home demonstration agents,

and local oflicials for more si)eciHc information and help.

COVER ILLISTHATIHX : Oinicr inul Farmers Home Administration utipcrvisor plan

rvltdliilitdIi»n of ßoo(l-irrc(k( il ¡loiiw.
CONTENTS

Page

The house1

Entering damaged building1

Drying and cleaning1

Electric circuits2

The heating system3

Water supplies, plumbing, and sanitation4

Household mechanical equipment7

Floors, woodwork, and doors8

Plastered walls and wallpaper9

Salvaging furniture 10

Care of books 11

Foods and clothing 12

Saving damaged foods 12

Cleaning clothing and bedding 12

Cleaning rugs and carpets 15

The farm 15

Livestock and feeds 15

Cleaning farm ecjuipment IS

Cleaning electric generators and motors 19

How to check your electric wiring 21

First aid to flooded land 21

Insect and rodent control 23

Insects affecting man 24

Insect pests of livestock 25

Rodent control 26

Relief and rehabilitation services 26

Precautions against flood 26

First steps 28

ni
FIRST AID FOR FLOODED HOMES

AND FARMS

Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture

THE HOUSE

ENTERING DAMAGED BUILDING

Before you enter a biiildin<r,

make sure it is safe and not about

to collapse. Let your house air

for several minutes to remove foul

odors or escaped gas. Do not

smoke or use open ñame until you

are sure that it is safe to do so. (^n

going in, bear in mind there may be

holes in the floor or loose boards

with nails sticking up. After dark

use a flashlight, to avoid igniting

escaped gas. Do not turn on an

electrical system ; it may have become short-circuited. Turn ofl' gas

at meter or tank.

All doors and windows that

have been submerged will be

swollen tight. "Wlien entrance

must be made by force because of

swollen doors, accumulated mud,

or bulged floors, enter by a window

or other opening, and then remove the pins of the door hinges

by lifting them with a screw

driver and a hammer. Be careful not to break cast-iron hinges.

Be sure the door is unlocked and

then' push it in from the outside,

trying not to damage it.

Look for loose plaster ready to

fall from the ceiling, and break it

down with a stick before moving

around in the building. Wet plaster is heavy and is dangerous if

loose. "Watch for more loose plaster

as the house dries out.

DRYING AND CLEANING

Open all doors and windows to

dry out the house, since both air

and heat are essential. If windows are swelled so that they cannot be raised, take ofl' the small

strip that holds in the lower sash

(use a chisel carefully to avoid

marring woodwork), force the sash

up slightly, and remove it from the

frame by pushing it from the outside into the hands of a helper. Be

careful not to break the glass.

Examine foundation and basement walls to make certain that they

have not been undermined. If walls

show evidence of settling or cracking, it may be necessary to dig down

to the footings and reinforce or

replace any sections that have

settlech Filling under footings that

have been undermined should be

done with masonry or concrete,

never with eiirth or gravel. Piers

that have tilted or settled may need

to be replaced. If the building is

out of plumb or if the floors have

settled or bulged, make sure that

the foundation is sound and tliat the

framing, such as sills, girders, and

joists is free from termite damage

before renovating. If the building

has to be moved, ex])ert help should

be called in unless the structure is

a simple one.

Directions for repairing defects

in foundations are given in detail

in Farmers' Bulletiiis 1772, Use of

Concrete on the Farm; and 1S6'.),

Foundations for Farm Buildings.

In making rejjaii's, danuiged wood

should be rej^laced with sound

wood. Farmers' Bulletin 199;), Decay and Termite Damage in Houses,

makes suggestions for ventilation,

protective construction, and use of

treated timbei' in places where it is

>J99037°—52

1
most difficult to keep wood protected from moisture.

Basements should be drained and

cleaned as soon as the building is

found to be safe. Pump or bail the

water from the cellar and shovel

out the mud while it is moist, to give

basement flooi'S and walls an opportunity to cky. Remove the mud

from the furnace, flues, and smoke

pipe. Detailed directions for cleaning main-floor rooms are given on

pages 8-9.

No rush to move in.—The house

should be clean and dry before any

attempt is made to live in it. Tlie

premises should be drained of all remaining pools of water. Driftwood, rubbish, and decaying vegetation left in the yard should be removed, burned, or buried. If the

house or porches rest on open foundations, take care to see before you

attempt to remove debris from underneath that there is no danger of

the structures collapsing. Walks

and fences damaged by floodwaters

are also a hazarcl until replaced or

repaired.

If conditions are such that these

things cannot be done, the situation

should be reported at once to the

county agricultural extension agent

or the home demonstration agent.

They may be able to obtain assistance from the Red Cross or other

agencies. Familj' and community

health must be guarded for the good

of all.

ELECTRIC CIRCUITS

Do not turn on lights or appliances until the whole system has

been checked by an electrician for

short circuits. Wear rubber-soled

shoes or boots and rubber gloves.

Turn oil' main switch for each building or at the yard pole, being careThree tractors pulling irrigation plow through a field iu Missouri River buttoui on

restoration work where sand was deposited during flood in July 1951. Width of

furrow between 30 and .36 inches. This plow easily cuts into the ground 30 inches.

Some of the black dirt lieiua plowed up fiMui under the layer of saud can be seen

mixed in with the saud and 6-foot clods. [Courtesy Misaouri Extension Service.]
Missouri River uverli ow in l!r>l ruined thonsiinds of farms, smne of wliich are slxiwn

iu this view from tlie aii-.

fill to Stand on a di-y board, and

avoid touching metal handle of

switch box by using a piece of rubber, plastic, or dry wood. Water is

likely to have gotten into conduits,

coiniection boxes, etc., and dampness or exposed wires can cause

short circuits and fires or even electrocute a person replacing fuses,

especially if he stands on a wet surface.

If sump pump is available and

needed, remove all fuses except the

main fuses and the one controlling

the sump pump ; then carefully turn

on the main switch to see if the

pump will operate. See section on

"Cleaning Electric Generators and

Motors,"' pages V.)--21.

THE HEATING SYSTEM

Before starting a fire in a hot-air

heating plant, examine the inside

of the heater and wash the sediment from the flues with a hose or

a swab on a long stick. The flues

can generally be reached through

the clean-out doors above the fire

door. If the heater is jacketed,

clean out all nnul between the stove

and the outside casing. It may be

necessary to remove the casing. If

the flues or passages are choked

with mud, the heater may burst

when a fire is started. Take the

smoke pipe out of the chimney, and

reach through the thimble to remove any mud from the lower part

of the chimney flue, to be sure there

will be a draft for the fire and to

avoid smoking up the house.

In oil-burning systems, the storage tank should be inspected by an

experienced person to make sure

seams have not been opened, allowing water and dirt to enter. The

l)urner should be dismantled and

all parts cleaned in kerosene and

wiped dry. The air blower and

fuel pump should receive atteii-
tioii. Housings enclosing- gears

should be removed and gears

thoroughly cleaned with kerosene.

Any grit left in gears will cause undue wear.

Small electric motors may be

dried out in an oven at not more

than 150° F. Take them out after

6 or 8 hours and test them. Then,

if there is still evidence of grounding or short-circuiting they should

be returned to the oven for 2 to 4

hours, and tested again. See also

section on "Cleaning Electric Generator and Motors," pages 19-21.

Be sure of the chimney

Any chimney that has been subjected to water action should be inspected, and if mortar in the joints

between the bricks has disintegrated, it should be repointed with

masonry cement. If the chimney

has settled badly or broken where

it passes through floors or roof, it

may need to be rebuilt before being

used. Most chimneys rest on a footing in the ground. If there is evidence of settling or tilting of the

chimney, the first step is to examine the footing to see whether or

not it ha.s been undermined. The

cleaning and repairing of flues and

chimneys are discussed in Farmers'

Bulletin 1889, Fireplaces and Chimneys. Types of heating systems are

described in Miscellaneous Publication 689, Your Farmhouse-HeatWATER SUPPLIES, PLUMBING,

AND SANITATION

Provision for a safe supply of

drinking water and sanitary disposal of sewage are most important.

The United States Public Health

Service regards these among the

Biiiklings wreckfd, field; Cdverert with s;ind, many fine farms will have to be rebuilt,

whore rebuilding is possible.
most important items in safeguarding the health of the family. Before drinking any water from the

well, have the county health authorities inspect it. They can give

directions for any treatment necessary. The individual is not

equipped to test water or clean

wells. This is best done by two, or

better three, mobile crews pro]ierly

equipped, the first to test water and

seal contaminated supplies, the second to clean the wells, the third to

test the cleaned wells and give a

clean bill of health.

Pending examination of the water supply, the householder should

employ one of the four following

methods of disinfection as a temporary precaution against disease :

1. Boil water for 5 minutes after

bubbles are observable on the surface of the water. This is a safe

method but inconvenient for large

quantities. Vigorous boiling of

water for at least 1 or 2 minutes will

provide satisfactory disinfection.

2. Use chlorine tablets. This is

simple and convenient. The talilets may be obtained from (li\ig

stores, and should be used in strict

accordance with the directions supplied. The flavor of chlorine will

disappear from the water unless

more chlorine is added. Boiling the

water will largely remove this

flavor. Chlorinated water will not

aiïect the kee])ing quality of canned

food, but it may destroy some of the

natural color, making the vegetables or fruit paler when cooked

in it.

3. Use bleaching powder (socalled chloride of lime). Dissolve

1 teaspoonful of fresh bleaching

powder in 1 quart of water, and

keep this solution in a stoppered

bottle. Mix thoroughly 1 teasj)oonful of this solution with 2 gallons

of water ; after 30 minutes the water

usually will be fit to drink. Fresh

solutions should be made up occasionally, as they gradually lose

strength.

4. Use tincture of iodine, which

is an excellent disinfectant for

drinking Avater. Mix 1 drop of this

tincture, which is 7 jiercent iodine,

thoroughly with 1 quart of water.

The Avater so treated usually will

be safe for drinking after 3Ö minutes. For larger quantities of water

use 11 drojjs of tincture in 2% gallons (an ordinary ])ailful), or 1

tablespoonful in 52 gallons (a large

barrel). For small quantities of

drinking water you may use a ju'eparation such as Halazone. Drug

stores usually carry several kinds of

safe disinfectants, either in tabular

form or in solution. Directions on

the containers should be followed

strictly.

The cleaning of wells and the disinfection of drinking water are discussed in Farmers" Bulletin 1978,

Safe Water for the Farm.

Extra precautions with water

The Unite.l States Public Health

Service, Division of Sanitation,

rcconuneuds boiling as the most

])osiiive means by which water may

be made safe to drink. Chemical

treatment, done with care, will also

malve water safe from bacterial contamination, but neither method will

eliminate chemical ]iollution that

may be present. Boiling should

last for 5 minutes from the time

bubbles are observed on the surface

of the water. If there is danger of

amoebic cysts and certain parasites,

only boiling should be lelied u])on.

Cofl^ee and tea are safe only when

made with water that has been

boiled at least 5 minutes. Water

used for brushing teeth or washing

tooth brushes i-equires the same

tieatment as drinking water. Further information on safe water is

given in Diiuking AYatei- Disinfection (niinie()gra])h), also Public

Health I'.ulletin 296, Manual of

0900.37°
Kecommended Water - Sanitation

Practice, by the Public Health

Service, Division of Sanitation, of

the Federal Security Agenc_y. Another useful booklet is Pnblic

Health Service Publication No. 24,

Individual Water Supply Systems.

containing the reconnnendations of

the Joint Committee on Eural Sanitation.

Care of plumbing

Test drains of plumbing fixtures,

water closets, and basement drains

by pouring in a bucket of water. If

they are clear of obstruction, the

water will run away. If they are

stopped up, remove the clean-out

plug from the trap (a U-, P-, or

S-shaped pipe will be found under

most such fixtures), and rake out

the mud with a wire. Water-closet

and drain traps can be cleaned with

water and a swab, or by rodding

with a plumber's "snake" or sometimes with a wire.

The repair of clogged pipes is

discussed in Farmers* Bulletin

1460, Simple Plumbing Repairs in

the Home.

Many privies will have been

washed away by floodwaters and

others will be so wrecked that they

should be replaced. Before building a new one, consult the local

health authorities and get plans for

building a sanitary privy.

Sewage and garbage disposal

Swamped sanitary disposal installations imperil the health of

man and animals in flooded areas.

The domestic water supply is almost

sure to become contaminated. It is

necessary to get the septic tanks,

cesspools, pits, and leaching systems back into service as soon as

practicable. The local or State

health departments or the United

States Public Health Service give

useful advice on cleaning and repair

or relocation of installations.

Any problems relating to water

supply, waste disposal, insect and

rodent control should be referred

to the local or State health departments, which have responsibility

for enforcement of health measures

and have people trained in these

fields ready to help you.

Some garbage can be burned.

What will not burn should be buried

in a pit 4 or 5 feet deep, and covered

with at least 18 inches of soil. Garbage fed to animals should be

cooked to prevent spread of disease.

Farmers" Bulletin 1950, Sewage and

Garbage Disposal on the Farm, contains drawings of permanent and

temporary installations. (For fly

control, .see p. 24.)

Combating odors

Odors in basements, although unpleasant, are not necessarily harmful to health. If ventilation does

not remove them, sprinkle bleaching

powder (chloride of lime) over the

basement floor. Allow it to stay

there until the floor dries, then

sweep it up. This material is a good

disinfectant.

Crop and 40 acre.s of sround gone with

the flood.
A mau will) stayed -n-ith the flmnl. Milk cans on roof lit'lil supiily of drinking water.

Cliickens were lironglit onto second iloor. Water aiiiiroaclied top of íirst-íloor

windows, shown liy daik line at left.

Drj- lump cliarcoal exposed in

several open containers may adsorb

the odorous substances from the air

in enclosed spaces. If lime is used,

it should be unslaked, and containers should be only half full to allow

for expansion during air shiking.

Further information may be found

ill Farmers' Bulletin 1991, The Use

of Disinfectants on the Farm.

HOUSEHOLD MECHANICAL

EQUIPMENT

Have motors for pumps, refrigerators, freezers, ranges, washing

machines, vacuum cleaners, food

mixers, and other household equip

ment examined by a competent person to see that they are clean, dry,

and free-running before turning on

the current, or they may be ruined.

Power washing machines should

be thoroughly cleaned before being put into use. Gear housings

should be opened and shafts and

gears cleaned with kerosene. AYii)e

all parts with a clean cloth. Grit

not readily seen by the eye may

cause wear to moxing parts when

they are put into oi)eration. (See

also sections on "("leaning Electric

Generators and Motors," p. 19,

"p:iectric Circuits", p. ^, and "Electric Wiring," p. 21.)

Glean all parts without forcing

any dirt into the bearings. Wipe

metal surfaces with rag wet with

kerosene to remove lust and dirt

stains, and coat thinly with peliolatum or machine oil to prevent

further rusting. Before using, oil

the bearings and wipe surfaces exposed to hands or clothing dry

with soft cloth.

It is safest to let technicians inspect household machines and

make rei)aiis. especially of motors

and power driven appliances. Go-
operation in the eanployment of

electricians to collect ancl recondition the motors in a central shop

may be practicable. (See also instrnctions under "Cleaning Farm

Equipment," p. IS.)

FLOORS, WOODWORK

AND DOORS

After the accumulation of wet

mud and dirt has been shoveled

from the floors they will in all probability be found badly buckled. Do

not attempt to repair them until

they have fully dried out. Start

the heating plant as soon as it is in

condition to operate, but don't vise

so much heat that the house becomes

steamy. Dry wood as fast as you

can without aggravating shrinkage

or deformation. Open windows

and doors enough to give good ventilation but maintain a temperature

of 50° to 60° F. or higher in the

house.

After the house has dried out it

may be possible to draw some of the

buckled flooring back into place

with nails. Some humps may be

removed by planing or sanding.

The work can be lightened considerably if a planing or sanding

machine can be rented. Such floors

planed heavily may never look well

enough to be used uncovered. But

an old floor smoothed can serve as a

base for new flooring. Or, when

smoothed, the old floor may be covered with felt and one of the smooth

floor coverings. These include linoleum and tiles of asphalt, rubber, or

plastic materials. If badly buckled,

the floor may have to be taken up

and relaid. If only the surface finish is damaged, the floor may be refinished.

Scrub all woodwork with a stiff

brush and plenty of water, to remove mud and silt from corners,

cracks, and crevices before the house

is dried out.

à-.

Kansas corn crib rode the tlood into anotlier county.
Taking care of locks and hinges

Locks, especially those of iron,

should be taken apart, wiped with

kerosene, and oiled. If it is not

feasible to remove them, squirt in a

little machine oil through the bolt

opening or the keyhole, and work

the knobs so as to clistribute the oil.

Otherwise the springs and metal

casing will soon rust and need replacing. Do not use too much oil

or it will drip onto the woodwork

and make later painting diffiodt.

Cleaning and oiling usually will

put hinges in order.

For a final, thorough washing of

floors, use whatever cleaning product you use for regular care—jireferably a nonsudsing one. Cleaning

instructions are given in Farmers'

Bulletin 1834, House Cleaning

Management and jNIethods. If refinishing is necessary, put oif doing

the work until the moisture has

dried from the wood itself—from

the framing, from between walls

and floors, and from the back of the

trim, even though tliis may take

several months. Consult an experienced painter in regard to refinishing. Or if you can do the work

yourself, be guided by instructions

on cans of standard brands of

paints and varnishes for household

use. Directions for preparing s\irfaces and mixing paint are given

in Farmers' Bulletin 1452, Pamtnig

on the Farm.

Surface mold of wood

Mold on the surface of wood can

usually be removed with a cloth

dipped in water to which a small

amount of kerosene has been added,

or with a solution of borax in water.

(Use hot water so it will dissolve

more of the borax.) Wood into

which mildew has penetrated can be

bleached with oxalic acid after tlie

paint or varnish has been removed.

Since oxalic acid is poisonous it

must be handled carefully, labeled "Poison," and kept out of the

reach of children. Use a solution

made with 3 tablespoons of the acid

to a pint of water or put the acid

directly on the stain. Rinse the

wood well and allow to dry thoroughly before refinishing.

Fixing roofs

Damaged roof coverings may be

repaired temporarily with material

immediately at hand and later repaired by one of the methods described in Farmers" Bulletin 1751,

Eoof Coverings for Farm Buildings and Tlieir Repair.

PLASTERED WALLS AND

WALLPAPER

Allow plaster to dry thoroughly

before washing it. Brush ott' any

loose surface dirt. To wash a

painted wall use w^ater with mild

soap or any commercial cleaner

that you have found satisfactory for

the purpose. (Professional renovators prefer nonsudsing products.)

Have one bucket for the cleaning

solution, another for clean water

for rinsing, and large sponges for

both.

Always start washing a wall at

the bottom and work up. Starting

at the top is likely to result in water

running down over the soiled area

and streaking it. Water running

down over a clean area can be wiped

off without damage. Wash an area

that you can reach easily without

clianging your position ; rinse it immediately. Then wash the next

area, overlapping the first one, and

proceed until the wall is finished.

Ceilings shotdd be done last. Badly

stained walls will need redecorating.

Wallpaper that has been wet usually is so discolored and brittle that

it must be removed and the walls

repapered. If paper has not been

wet but some edges or sections have

been loosened by dampness, it may

be possible to repaste them. Use a

9
pnreluised wallpaper paste or make

your own as follows :

Mix 2 ponnils wheat fliiur and 1 quart

cold water tu a siiKiulli paste; stir in 2

(luarts of boiling water and continue

boiling until paste is seiuitransiiarent ;

add 1 ounce of alum that lias been dissolved in Vo cup of hot water.

To clean wallpaper, use a purchased piittylike cleaiter. Chunks

of bread may be used but are less

effective. Some wallpapers are

washable. Before atteinpthig to

wash paper try a small inccins[)icuous spot to see whether it can be

done satisfactorily. Use only mild

soap or syitthetic detergent and proceed as for a painted wall. Squeeze

as nnich water as possible out of the

cleaning and rinsing sponges and

work quickly so that paper does not

become soaked.

To remove grease spots from

Avallpaper, cover with a paste made

of cornstarch or talcum with carbon

tetrachloride or other dry-cleaning

llnid. Allow to dry and brush ofi'.

CAUTION: Carbon tetrachloride is toxic when used in enclosed

areas, and many of the other

cleaning Quids are explosive.

SALVAGING FURNBTURE

Take all wooden furniture outdoors and remove as many of the

drawers, slides, or other working

parts as possible. These will probably be stuck tight. Do not force

the drawers with a screw dri^•er or

chisel from the front. Eemove the

back by cutting it out if necessary

and ]iush out the drawers. After

the various moving parts of the

furniture have been removed in this

way, clean off all nnid and dirt, using a hose stream if necessary, and

then take them all indoors again

and store them where they will dry

out slowly. Do not leave tliem out

in the sun as they will warp and

twist otit of shape.

Some furniture, especially that

made of solid wood, may be salvaged by regluing. Gluing, however, is fairly difficidt to do at home

because on many pieces it is necessary to use clamps. Before starting this task, therefore, decide

whether it is worth while investing

in this equipment and whether you

have the time and ability to do

the work. If you find the work

too difñcnlt to attempt, consult a

cabinetmaker.

Repairing veneered furniture is

so difficult and requires so many

different types of tools that it is not

practical to try it at home. Get a

cabinetmaker to do the job, or

have the store from which you

bought the furniture send it back to

the factory to be repaired. If insurance allows part value on flooddamaged furniture, it may be worth

while financially to apply the allowance on new articles rather than

to pay for repaii'S on damaged

items.

Removing lohite spotfi.—Furniture that has not been submerged

may have developed white spots or

a whitish film or cloudiness from

dampness. If the whole surface is

affected, try rubbing with a cloth

wrung out of a mixture of y^ cup

of household ammonia and V2 cup

of water; wipe drj' at once and

polish with wax or furniture polish.

For smaller areas or spots on varnished surfaces, rtib with a cloth

moistened with cami^horated oil or

oil of peppermint. A drop or two

of ammonia on a damp cloth may

do the work. Rub dry with a soft

cloth and then polish. Cigarette

ashes I'ubbed in with the finger tips

are often effective in removing

white spots. If all efforts to remove white blemishes are ineffective, it ma}' be necessary to refinish

the furniture.

Milden\—Brush any loose dirt

from upholstered furniture and

shampoo the fabric. Follow directions given for carpets and rugs on

page 15. Work quickly. If there

is mildew on the fabric, wipe it with

a cloth wrung out of dilute alcohol

10
(1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup of

water). Dry the furniture

thoroughly.

If furniture has been wet for a

long time, tlie stuffing may have become mildewed or may even have

started to decay. Place furniture in

a room that can be tightly closed

and fumigate it by burning formaldehyde candles in the room. Or you

may prefer to send the furniture to

a reliable dry-cleaning or storage

company for fumigating.

Be careful to follow directions

given with the candles, for formaldehyde is very irritating.

In cases of badly damaged upholstered furniture, especially any

that has been submerged, stuffing

may be so deteriorated that it needs

to be replaced. Springs may need

to be cleaned and oiled, frame

cleaned. If much work is needed,

the furniture should be sent to an

experienced cabinetmaker or upholsterer unless you are confident

of your own ability to do such

work.

Metals.—Clean metal as soon as

possible, especially iron. Wipe rust

from iron with a cloth saturated

^Yith kerosene. Iron hardware can

then be coated lightly with petrolatum or machine oil to prevent further rusting. Use stove polish on

stoves or similar ironwork. Wash

cooking utensils thoroughly with

soapy water to remove the kerosene ; to prevent further rusting,

rub with unsalted cooking fat and

heat slowly to permit the fat to

soak into the jiores of the metal.

Stainless steel, nickel-copper

alloy, or metals plated with nickel

or chromium need only thorough

washing and perhaps polishing

with a very fiiie-])owdered cleaner.

If the plating of furniture or hardware is broken so thatthe base metal

is exposed and rusted, wipe with

kerosene, wash and dry the surface,

and then wax to prevent further

rusting.

Wash aluminum thoroughly and

scour any unpolished surfaces, such

as the insides of utensils, with metal

wool. Polished or plated surfaces

of aluminum should not be scouied

but should be polished with metal

polish on fine cleaning powder. To

brighten the darkened insides of an

aluminum pan fill it with water,

add 14 cup vinegar or 1 tablespoon

of cream of tartar for each quart

of water and boil. If the utensils

have been submerged and are darkened both inside and out, prepare

one of these acid solutions in a tub

or wash boiler and immerse the

utensils in it.

Copper and brass can be polished

with a sjjecial polish or with salt

sprinkled on a piece of lemon or on

a cloth saturated with vinegar.

CARE OF BOOKS

Books and papers should be dried

carefidly and slowl3^ Books

slioukl be placed on end to dry and

tlie leaves Ivept apart. After exposure to tlie air for a time they

should be piled and ]iressed to keep

the leaves from crumpling. This

alternate drying and pressing

should be continued until the materials are thoroughly dry, so as to

])revent mildew. If books are very

damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum between the leaves to take u])

the moisture ; leave for several

SclKHil clllSI'd.

11
hours and then brush off. A little

heilt and separatin<i of the pages

are desirable toward the end of the

process, to prevent musty odors.

FOODS AND CLOTHING

SAVING DAMAGED FOODS

Fldodwaters carry iilth and disease bacteria from sewage systems,

backed-up sewage, anil barnyard.

Foods, drugs, or cosmetics which

have been covered by floodwaters

are potentially dangerous.

Precaution against duease.—You

can help to prevent typhoid and

other dangerous diseases in the following ways:

Destroy fresh fruits and vegetables, foocls, medicines, and cosmetics

in cardboard containers and other

packages that are not hermetically

sealetl which have been in contact

with floodwaters. This includes

flour and other commodities irt bags.

Destroy the contents of crowncapped bottles and screw-top glass

containers, including canned food

in glass jars, if the containers have

been covered by floodwaters. Seepage can carry harmful bacteria into

the contents of all but the most

tightly sealed containers.

Ex]ierience has shown that the

only flood-damaged foods that are

entirely safe for salvage are those

in sealed metal cans, but such containers should be carefullj' cleaned

and d'txvnfected before opnihig.

Here is how to do it :

(1) Inspect cans and destroy any

which bulge or leak (indications of

spoilage).

{ 2) Remove labels and wash containei's in warm water containing

soap or detergent.

(3) Immerse containers in chlorine solution containing 2l)U parts

])er million of clilorine for at least

2 minutes. The ])roper strength

solution can be made by adding 1

tablespoon of ö-percent household

laundry bleach to each gallon of

water. Use more of the bleach if

it is weaker than 5 percent. Einse

the cans in clean water.

OK—Immerse in some other sterilizing solution if recommended by

local authorities. Rinse in clean

water.

OR—^Place containers in boiling

water and boil vigorously for at

least 2 minutes. Dry cans to prevent rusting.

Chlorine and most other sterilizing solutions are poisonous. Take

'precautions that the chemicals loill

not he swaUoxoed hy members of the

family, pets, or livestock.

Inspectors of the Food and Drug

Administration cooperate with

local and State health oiRcials to

check commercial supplies of foods,

animal feeds, drugs, and cosmetics

that have been exposed to floodwaters. They supervise the proper

cleansing and" disinfecting of sealed

containers, and the destruction of

goods that are unflt for use. Most

retailers and distributors cooperate

fully. You can help them to guard

against distribution of contaminated goods. Avoid strangers selling food at suspiciously low prices.

Report them and the license numbers of their cars or trucks to health

officials. Report also to health officials the movement or sale of foods

that you suspect to be flooddamaged.

CLEANING CLOTHING AND

BEDDING

Mud-stained white cottons and

linens (clothing, sheets, towels,

table linens, etc.) can be cleaned,

but it takes some effort.

Do not plunge white cotton and

linen fabrics stained with floodwater carrying red or yellow clay

into hot soa]isucls. Claj^ makes a

stain like iron rust, and hot soapsuds will set such stains. Also be

careful not to overbleach floodstained fabrics.

First brush ofl' all loose dirt possible. Then rinse mud-stained fab12
ries several times in cold water to

take out particles of soil lodged in

the yarns. When no more dirt can

be rinsed out, wash the articles in

warm soapsuds, through several

waters if necessary.

In extreme cases, try bleaching

white cottons, linens, and rayons in

Javelle water, in soditun perborate,

or in a mixture of sodium perborate

with hydrogen peroxide. Do not

use these chemicals on colored fabrics. Dry white fabrics in the sun

to aid bleaching.

Javelle water and other chlorine

bleaches (sodium hypochlorite solutions) remove mud stains fi'oui

uncolored cotton, linen, or rayon

cloth. Do not use them on silk or

wool. To prepare Javelle water:

Mix 1^ pound of washing soda in 1

quart of cold water. Add I/4 pound

of bleaching powder (commonly

called chloride of lime). Strain

this liquid through a piece of muslin and store ready for use in a bottle with a tight cork or stopper.

When necessary, place i/^ pint of

this mixture,in 1 gallon or more of

cold or lukewarm water, and immerse the clothes. Allow them to

Flood-damaged bedding requires special

care and precaution in drying.

remain until bleached enough, although longer than 10 minutes is

likely to be harmful to tlie fabric.

Next dip tlie clothes in a solution

made up of 1 tablespoon of sodium

thiosulfate (sold by pliotographicsupply stores as "hypo") and 1 to

2 tablespoons of vinegar in 1 gallon

of water. Tliis stops the action of

the chlorine remaining in the cloth

after the treatment with Javelle

water. Then rinse the cloth well in

clean water. To remove the stain

completely you may have to repeat

the Javelle water-thiosulfate treatment several times.

Sodium ])erborate is one of the

safest bleaches for all types of materials. For a large stain, soak the

entire garment for a half hour or

longer in sodium perborate and

soapsuds (4 tablespoons perborate

to a pint of soapy water), or dip

quickly in a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate with 1 pint

hydrogen peroxide. Rinse in water.

Be sure to use the mixture immediately because it soon loses its

strength.

Cleaning woolens

To clean woolen clothes and

blankets, first shalie and brush well

to remove as nnicli dirt as possible.

Next rinse several times in lukewarm water to remove particles of

soil lodged in fibers. Then prepare

an abundance of lukewarm suds

from neutral soap ; or use one of the

newer synthetic detergents recommended for laundering fine fabrics.

Inunerse the wool material and

work it gently in the suds or detergent sohition with as little agitation

as possible. If necessary, wash in a

second lukewarm suds. Never rub

or boil wool. Rinse carefully in

several changes of lukewarm water.

Woolens should be dried in a

warm place but not near a fire or in

direct sunlight. Never allow them

to freeze. Hang knitted underwear

from the shoulders. Spread sweaters and other knitted garments on a

13
table and sluipe according to desired

dimensions.

Hang blankets over a line or on

two lines close together to distribnte

the weight. When blankets are dry,

brusli on both sides to lift nap to its

original softness. Press wool garments while they are still damp

with a medium-hot iron, and ])rotect with a pressing cloth if they are

to be ironed on the right side. Be

sure to leave a little moisture in tJie

wool or it will look hard and lifeless.

Silks and rayons

To clean silk and rayon articles,

remove nnid and other htose dirt in

the way lecommended for cotton

and linen articles. "Wash in an

abundance of lukewarm suds, according to the directions given for

woolens. Dry in the shade and,

while still damp, press on the wrong

side with a warm iron.

Removing other stains and rust

Mildew stains are caused by a

fungus growth. If mildew has penetrated the fibers and been there for

some time, the stain cannot be removed without damaging the cloth.

Lemon juice, sodium perborate, and

Javelle water will bleach out mildew .stains on white cotton, linen,

and rayon.

Eemove iron rust and some dye

stains with sodium hydrosulfite.

It can be bought at drug stores under various trade names as a dye or

color remover for i)reparing cloth

for redyeing. Follow the directions given on the package and rinse

well in water.

Many faded and stained garments and household articles, the

fabrics of which are still good, can

be made usable by reilyeing.

Usually it is easier to dye a fabric

a deeper shade of the same color

than to change to a new color.

Care of bedding

Mattresses soaked with Hoodwater are generally damaged beyond use and should be discarded,

as reconditioning is too difficult to

be done at home. A sufficiently valuable mattress or one of the innersjjring type may be sent to a commercial renovating company, where

the stuffing will be taken out and

thoroughly cleaned, the ticking

cleaned and resized, and the whole

put together again in a mattress

frame.

Transfer the feathers from the

pillow to a muslin bag two or three

times the size of the ticking. First

sew the edges of the openings of the

ticking and the bag together, then

shake the feathers from one into the

other. Wash the bag of feathers in

lukewarm soa])suds, repeat, and

rinse in lukewarm water, changing

the water several times. Squeeze

out all of the water possible, and

lay the bag flat on a sheet to dry in

the sun or in a warm place, or pin

it to the clothesline to dry in the

open air. Another good way is to

lay it flat on a window screen which

has been propped up oiï the ground.

Shake up the feathers occasionally

to hasten the drying.

If a ])illow has stood for a long

time in floodwater, it may be impossible to remove all traces of offensive odor. While the feathers

are drying wash the ticking. When

it is ciry, a])p]y a very stiff starch

mixture to the inside with a sponge

to kee]) the feathers from working

through. When both feathers and

ticking are thoroughly dry, refill

the ticking in the same way that it

was em])tied.

Flood-soaked thick comforters of

cotton or wool, like mattresses, are

very difficult to recondition. The

only way is to take them apart and

wash the cover and filling separately and then refill and tuft them

together. Lightweight quilts may

be washed like cotton or wool blankets and, if possible, should be dried

quickly out of doors in the sun to

remove the unpleasant odor.

14
CLEANING RUGS AND CARPETS

Let rugs and carpets dry out

thoroughly. Then clean by beating or sweeping or by using a vacuum cleaner. If necessary, shampoo them with soap jellj' or a commercial rug shampoo available at

many drug and department stores.

Leave large rugs on the floor or

spread them out on a porch. For

convenience work with small rugs

on a table near the sink or laundry

tubs.

Make the soap jelly with 1 quart

of mild soap flakes dissolved in 5

quarts of hot water. Beat with an

egg beater to form a stiff lather and

apply with a brush or sponge to a

small part of the rug at a time.

Scrub gently. Then wipe ofl' the

dirty lather and rinse this section

immediatel}^ with clean water.

AVork over the surface of the rug in

this way in overlapping sections so

as not to leave streaks, and wlien

rinsing for the last time brush the

nap in one direction.

After shampooing them, dry the

rugs or carpets as quickly as possible by hanging them up and exposing them to a circulation of warm,

dry air. Make sure they are

thoioughly dry, for even though the

surface seems dry, any moisture remaining at the base of the tufts

Mill quickly rot the rug, causing it

to fall apart.

Under ordinary circumstances

there is danger of colors running

and rugs shrinking when shampooed by home methods, but with

articles badly damaged by floods,

it is usually a case of reconditioning

them for any possible use.

After such treatment some types

of machine-made pile rugs may

need resizing to make them lie flat

on the floor. Dissolve one-half

pound of granulated glue in 1 gallon of boiling water. Lay the

clean rug face down on papers in

some part of the house where it can

remain undisturbed, and tack it

down at intervals, being careful to

have it straight and true. Then

with a whitewash brush or a whisk

broom, brush the hot glue over the

back of the rug, ancl let it dry

thoroughly.

CAUTION : Do not use so much

glue that it will soak through to

the right side of the rug.

Rugs and carpets tliat are torn or

worn can be repaired by following

directions given in Farmers' Bulletins 1925, ABC's of Mending;

1960, Carpet and Rug Repair.

More detailed information than

given above can be obtained from

the following publications issued by

the United States Depai'tnient of

Agriculture : Leaflet 322, Preventing and Removing Mildew, Home

Methods ; Farmers' Bulletin 1474,

Stain Removal from Fabrics:

Farmers' Bulletin 1873, Slip Covers

for Furniture; and Farmers" Bulletin 1960, Carpet and Rug Rei)air.

THE FARM

LIVESTOCK AND FEEDS

Water alone does not necessarily

injure feed. The principal danger

in feeding haj', grain, or forage that

has been wet i.s caused by changes

in the feed residting from mold,

putrefaction, and fermentation. If

feed has only recently been wet and

if it can be dried quickly, there is

much less danger than when the

dampness is of several days' or

weeks' duration.

Wet hay should be ]ironii>tly

spread out to dry and should be

turned and shaken frequently. It

may be handled in nuich the same

way as hay that is being made from

freshly cut grass. Bales of hay, of

course', should be opened and well

spread out. Wet grain, likewise,

should be spread aiul dried as

quickly as possible. Small quantities for immediate use may be dried

fairly quickly in artilicially heated,

well-ventilated buildings. Farmers' Bulletin 2009, Storage of Small

Grains and Shelled Corn on the

Farm, and Circular 839, Mechanical

15
Portable driers arrive to begin salvage

operations on stored grain damaged by

flood.

Drying of Corn on tlie Farm, and

F. B. 2028, Dryi)ig Forage by

Forced Ventilation, give methods

for drying grain.

Feeds that are slightly musty or

partly spoiled are more likely to injure horses than cattle. Hogs will

tolerate still poorer feeds. But

there is a distinct risk in u.sing feed

that is sjioiled in any degree. Under no circumstances should spoiled

material be fed if sound feed is

available. Livestock may, however, tolerate small quantities of inferior feed, and such feed may be

given to sustain life until supplies

of safe feeds can be obtained. The

principal danger is from digestive

disturbances and so-called forage

poisoning.

The presence of sand or dirt in

feed is not, in itself, a noteworthy

danger since animals normally consume small quantities of dirt.

However, the presence of considerable quantities of such matter tends

to make feed unpalatable. You can

remove the dirt by sifting, shaking,

or other means.

Handling mows of heating hay

Heating haymoAvs may set Hre to

farm buildings. On tlie lirst indiciition that hay in barns is heating,

maintain a close vpatch. The emission of water vapor, pungent and

irritating odors, or the presence of

hot, wet areas, or "flues," on the surface of the mow are warnings.

Common salt may retard fermentation, but it cannot be relied on to

prevent spontaneous ignition of

hay.

The first thing to do is to make a

check on the temperatures down in

the mow before deciding upon what

action to take. Drive a sharppointed pipe down into the hay,

lower a thermometer inside the pipe,

and leave it there for about 20 minutes. Make the reading quickly

when the thermometer is removed.

If the temperature climbs to 18.5°

F., it is definitely reaching a point

of danger which warrants stopping

all ventilation and removing the

hay from the barn, even though, if

left undisturbed, the hay might cool

eventually. If the temperature

reaches 200° there should be no

question about the advisability of

lemoving the hay. But before this

is done, take all possible precautions against fire. If there is a volunteer fire department near, ask it

to bring out full equipment. If

there is no such service, have an

adequate supply of water at hand to

quench a possible blaze when a "hot

]wcket" is exposed to the air. The

fire department may be able to cool

the hay with carbon dioxide gas.

This has been done successfully in

some barns. Do not uncover or remove such hot hay without first

Avetting it thoroughly or cooling it

with carbon dioxide; otherwise

when it is exposed it is likely to

burst into flames.

Guard livestock health

In the wake of floodwaters there

is some danger of infectious diseases, but unless serious outbreaks

of infection have occurred recently,

tlie danger is not sufficiently great

to be alarming. However, wher16
ever animals are assembled in concentration pastures for care during

the emergency, it is advisable to be

on the watch for any indication of

infectious diseases and arrange for

the handling and feeding of the

animals by an experienced stockman, under the supervision of a

veterinarian.

As a precaution clean out all hog

houses, barns, and chicken houses

and spray with a good disinfectant

before they are used again by livestock. It is also advisable to spray

animals with a good insect repellent. Consult your veterinarian

about vaccinating livestock to prevent anthrax. Hogs should be vaccinated against hog cholera and

swine erysipelas. It may be advisable, also, to vaccinate chickens

and turkeys against Newcastle disease.

All contagious and infectious diseases should be reported promptly

to the nearest veterinarian, the

State veterinarian, or any livestock

sanitary oiBcial.

Trash in fastures.—Before restocking pastures that have been

flooded, inspect them, especially

along fence lines and corners. The

Disease may attack livestock turned back

to pasture too soou after floodwater

has receded.

Tills pig will live to go to market.

short time taken will be well repaid

through the prevention of cuts and

other injuries to livestock from

pieces of barbed wire, sharp metal,

and trash.

Dispose of animal carcasses

As soon as floodwaters have subsided search all pastures for dead

animals. Wlien dead animals are

found, jn'ompt and sanitary disposal is of great importance to the

living animals in the neighborhood.

It is good practice to dispose of all

animal carcasses in a sanitary manner, even though the danger of disease may at the time seem remote.

Wherever it is convenient, send carcasses of drowned animals to a rendering plant. And such carcasses

usualij' have some connnercial

value.

If rendering is not practicable,

the dead animals shoidd be disposed

of on the premises. Immediately

after finding a carcass, cover it with

crude oil or kerosene to keep away

dogs, buz7.ards, and vermin. Satisfactory burning of animal carcasses has been found extremely

difficult, and burial is preferable to

burning, especially where a suflicient number of carcasses are pres17
eilt to justify iiiipoi'ting power

equipment. Clioose a site where

subsurface drainage will not reach

tlie water su]iply of persons or livestock. Burial should be deep, so

that predatory animals cannot

reach the carcasses.

CLEANING FARM EQUIPMENT

Tractors and internal-combustion

engines

Care and skill are needed in reconditioning flood-damaged machinery. Before attempting to

start any engine, make a thorough

inspection to determine whether

everything is in order. If the tractor or engine has been completely

submerged, do not even atteiiqit to

turn over the motor or start it.

The equipment should not be allowed to stand any longer than

necessary. Delay may allow rusting and corrosion and the sticking

of cylinders or other motor parts

that might not occur if the machine

were cleaned promptly.

The steam-cleaning equipment

used by implement dealers cleans

tract(n- motors and transmissions

without the necessity of taking the

macliine completely apart and in

one-third the time required for

cleaning by hand. Air or steam

pressures should be applied to the

oil line to make sure that all silt

and grit are completely removed,

especially in motors having a fullpressure lubricating system.

"Where the work is to be undertaken at home, carefully clean ex2)osed gears, sprockets, and chains

with kerosene or solvent, then with

soap and hot water in order to remove all the mud and silt. Then

coat with light oil. Valuable engines should be cleaned and reconditioned by or under the supervision

of skilled mechanics.

A tew of thousaiids of triu-ks, tractuis, and farm macliiiies covered by saud in floods

of 1051.

18
Magnetos, generators, and starters should receive the treatment described on page 19.

Remove and clean carburetors, intake and exhaust manifold, magnetos, and spark plugs, and all parts

of the engine that might entrap

dirt, including air filters. Note how

and where the parts came off, so

they can be replaced exactly as they

were.

Take apart as necessary and

thoroughly clean all bearings,

gears, and pistons in an engine with

open crankcase.

Inspect the interior of enclosed

crankcases or gear cases by removing plates or handhold covers. If

there is water or grit in the case,

which might have been admitted by

leaking gaskets or packing glands,

remove the oil, wash out the case

with kerosene, and put in clean oil.

Wash the external or fin portion

of the radiator carefully with a

hose. Sediment or dirt caked in the

cells will cause overheating of the

engine.

Inspect the fan belt and the fan.

Replace and repair them as necessary and see that the fan turns

freely.

Remove, empty, and clean out

the gasoline tank, as it is likely to

contain water and grit after being

immersed.

Take every precaution against

explosion in handling gasoline

tanks.

After all parts liave been replaced examine the machine to see

that everything appears in order,

then turn over the engine by hand.

If it turns freely, it probably is

ready for starting. Be sui'e to have

all parts clean and properly lubricated before starting the engine or

machine.

Farming implements

Before trying to operate any machine inspect it carefully and remove all dirt and debris.

Clean and oil all bearings, sprockets, chains, and gears not i)rotected

against the entrance of water and

grit. Sometimes bearings equipped

with grease cups or Alemite or Zerk

fittings can be sufñcientlj^ cleaned

by forcing grease or oil through

them until a considerable amount

has oozed out from the sides of the

bearings.

After cleaning the bearings and

replacing the parts removed, carefully turn over the moving parts of

the machine by hand to make sure

that they work freely and that no

dirt or debris remains to interfere

with operation of the machine.

Examine all belts and repair or

replace them as needed.

Unroll, clean, and thoroughly

dry all canvas conveyors or covers

on the machine or in storage to prevent mildewing.

Examine the knife bars of binders and mowers and free them of

dirt.

Clean all of the dirt and rust

from smooth parts such as moldboards of plows, disks of harrows,

and shovels of cultivators, and coat

them with rust-preventive compound, grease, or used crankcase

oil. Consult Farmers' Bulletin

1754. Care and Repair of Mowers

and Binders.

CLEANING ELECTRIC

GENERATORS AND MOTORS

When generators and motors

have gone through a flood it is usually advisable to have them inspected and reconditioned by an experienced electrician. If such service is not available, a careful owner

perhaps may obtain satisfactory

results by proceeding as follows:

Remove and thoroughly wash all

bearings that are not sealed: then

replace them after oiling or greasing. Clean the oil wells supplying

the bearings and fill them with

fresli motor oil.

Clean centrifugal switches, slip

rings, and conunutators of grit and

19
Taking motor apart fur ck^aiihii;'. (1) lieiuoviiif;- l)(ilts and capacitor cuver,

(a) Cover plate, (i) lieniovini;- .•^lial't, (li.«-oiiiiecting wires. («) Sliaft key,

(h) centrifugal device, (c) snap switch. tJ) Motor disassembled, (a) Stator,

(Ö) capacitor, (c) running winding, (rf) scinirrel-cage rotor type of arniatnre,

(e) capacitor cover, (/) end bracket, (,(/) through bolts, (/t) V-puUey. (4) Rotor

and armature, t'/j CVntrifngal device, (6) laminated core, (c) snap switch.

dirt particles and examine brushes

t<j see \vliether they move freely in

their holders.

Take out the armature, or rotating member, and clean it well with

water from a hose under low ]3ressure or with i^ails of water. Highpressure water or air may cause

even fine grit to damage surfaces or

insulation. Treat the stationary

coils similarly. Aftei' washing

with water, wash with carbon tetrachloride. Do this in open air, as

the fumes are jioisonous. Or wash

with kerosene, not gasoline. (Remember tliere should be no smoking and no exposed flame near the

place where tliese liquids are being

handled.)

The motor coils, either rotor or

stator, should be dried by heating

to a temperature of about 150° F.

for 10 to 15 hours. The windings

should then be painted with a light

insulating varnish. If varnish is

not available, an asphaltum paint

may be substituted. One coat

should be applied and then baked

for a period of 4 or 5 hours at a temperature of -200° to -250°. A second

coating of the same material should

then be applied and baked for 3 or

4 hours at the same temperature

as the first coat to insure a good

job.

Before assembling the motor or

generator, check starting contacts

for corrosion and lubricate lightly

20
all moving parts. Replace oil wicks

and renew oil in reservoirs. The

bearings should be thoroughly reconditioned. If sealed-type ball

bearing has leaked, allowing grit to

enter, the bearings should be soaked

in gasoline or oil and any loose grit

blown out by compressed air. With

the sleeve-type bearing the dirt

should be removed with kerosene

and old wicks replaced with new

material. If the capacitor overheats, remove it and bake it in mild

heat for several hours. If it continues to overheat, get a new one.

Bm^- and milkhowse machines.—•

Electrically driven machinery such

as milking machines, milk coolers,

brooders, water pumps, cream separators, feed grinders, hay choppers, and farm shop equipment call

for a combination of this type of

reconditioning plus the special attention needed for their motors.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR ELECTRIC

WIRING

(Wear rubber-soled shoes or boots and

rubber gloves in checking electric

circuits)

1. Open the main switch in each

building or at the yard pole if

there is a yard-pole switch.

2. Remove all branch circuit fuses.

3. Disconnect all plug-in equipment and open the switches at

each piece of permanently connected equipment.

4. Clean dirt and debris from the

load-center panels and the

switch, outlet, and junction

boxes.

5. Allow the entire wiring system

, to dry out.

6. Have the whole system checked

by a skilled electrician, preferably an electrical inspector with

equipment for testing insulation

resistance.

7. Make all changes recommended

by the inspector.

8. Insert the fuse in a single

branch circuit and close the

main switch. If the fuse

blows, there is still a fault in

that circuit. If the fuse does

hot blow, look over the visible

wires and each outlet in that

circuit to see if there is any

smoke or other sign of faults.

If everything seems to be normal, remove the fuse.

9. Repeat this step with each of

the other circuits.

10. After all circuits have been

checked individually, insert all

fuses in their proper places and

plug in and operate an appliance knoion to he in good

conditio7i at each outlet.

11. Do not connect appliances and

equipment that have been submerged, until after each one has

been properlj' cleaned and

checked. After proper cleaning and checking, each one

should be cautiously operated

individually to be sure that it is

in good operating condition.

Lighting in the home is discussed in Farmers' Bulletin 1838,

Electric Light for the Farmstead.

Other useful information is contained in Miscellaneous Publication

597, Planning Your Farmstead for

Wiring and Lighting, also Program Aid 171, Keep Your lilectric

Water System in Service (both distributed by the Rural Electrification Administration).

FIRST AID TO FLOODED LAND

Getting flooded land back to work

may take considerable time and

much labor. A faimer may be able

to do it himself, but many renovation jobs call for community cooperation, technical help, and use

of heavy efiuipmeut, either by faimers or bj' experienced contractors.

Clear ditchex and drainai.—This

is work a farmer can usually do for

himself. The aim is to restore

promptly the carrying capacity of

the drains and get rid of excess

moisture in tlie soil and tit fields for

cultivation. Stagnant water is a

healtli danger to the farm family

and the neighborhood.

21
Clear outlet ditclies and culverts

of debris, drift, silt bars, and shoals

to provide f:;ood outflow for Held

ditches and drains. Shovels or

team and scrapers will do most of

the work in the smaller ditches. In

larger ditches dynamiting may

help.

Inspect head

of tile drains

walls and outlets

and make sure

tliat drainage channels are clear.

Standing water over a tile line indicates location of obstructions.

In reconditioning ditches and tile

drains, start at the lower end of the

system and work backward. If

there is water standing, it may be

necessary to dig or blast an emergency channel through the obstructing material. Breaks through

streambanks or dikes nnist be

¡Dlugged to prevent normal high

water from reflooding bottom lands.

Gullies started by intense rains or

flood waters may be checked by

temi)oi'ary structures or by diversion ditches around the heads of the

gullies. These check further cutting until soil-conservation measures for permanent control can be

worked out.

Neighbors plan together.—Communities fincl it necessary to cooperate when flood damage has been

so severe that large scale replanning of water-management is required. Such situations may call

for realinement of streams or restoring them to their regular

channels, streambank stabilization,

diking, filling scour holes, dealing

with heavy overlays of silt or sand,

gully control, and similar undertakings. These big jobs are likely

to art'ect tlie whole cropping system

and layout of the farm and of

neighboring farms. For such problems farmers are likely to want the

technical assistance of the Soil Conservation Service, which is available through local soil conservation

districts; also help from county

Half an acre of gi'a.ssland on hillside proves refuge for herd on flooded farm.

22
County agent and farmer discuss recovery plans In field of tomatoes swept by flood.

cagents, expei'ienced contractors,

and other qualified advisers.

Land with relatively liglit coverings of sand or silt can be brouii'lit

back to production b}' normal tillage methods, though they may call

for more than the usual su]:)plies of

manure and fertilizer. It may be

necessary to grow grasses or forage

crops for 1 year or longer Ijefore tlie

usual tilled crops are planted again.

Heavier overlays of silt or sand will

call for more drastic changes in

production, as reconnnended b}'

technical specialists. Eeseeding of

meadows will provide an oiii)()rtunity to replace old permanent pafitures with more valuable mixtures

of grasses and legumes that can be

expected to produce more feed.

INSECT AND RODENT

CONTROL

Control of insects in flooded zones

is vital. Emphasis should be

placed on prevention of insect

breeding hy restoiing di'ainage and

repeating treatment with larvicides

as needed. (See p. Ü, on drainage.) Clean up clecaying animal

and vegetable matter in which certain insects breed and destroy it as

soon as possible. Removal of

spoiled food, grain, and carcasses

was one of the big problems after

the disastrous floods of 1951. If the

cleanup is delayed, it is all the more

important to take quick concerted

action in killing the larvae to prevent mosquito and fly breeding.

House screens should be repaired

to keep out flying insects. An oil

solution of DDT or methoxychlor

applied to screens will kill the insects alighting there, and will keep

out gnats, midges, and other small

flies that can enter between the

meshes. These treatments will also

give protection against flies, mosquitoes, and many other insects that

breed abundantly in standing

23
water. stagnant pools and wet

debris, and^animal matter. Apply

sprays or aerosols coiitaining

pyrethrum inside of houses, if necessary to supplement other insectcontrol-measures.

Take care not to breathe the

dust or mist of insecticides. Do

not use oil sprays around open

lights or fires. Avoid contaminating foods with insecticides.

Do not use DDT oil solution on

vegetation.

INSECTS AFFECTING MAN

Concentration of people in camps

may cause trouble from annoying

and disease-carrying insects such as

lice, bed bugs, mosquitoes, and

houseflies.

The best and simplest control for

bed bugs is to spray mattresses and

bedsteads with a 5-percent DDT

solution. This spray will kill all insects present and will protect the

beds from reinfestation for at least

6 months. About half a cup is

enough to treat a double bed and

mattress. You may have to treat

walls and furniture such as bureaus, chests, and easy chairs.

To control body lice apply about

2 ounces of a 10-percent DDT powder inside the clothing. Use this

powder also to control head lice.

Ai)ply it thoroughly to the hair and

rub it into the scalp. Leave the

])owder in the hair for about 10

days. If it is washed out after 1

or 2 days, make a second application in about 8 or 10 days.

Stop the fies.—Control house

flies by the following methods :

1. Apply a .5-percent oil solution

of DDT or methoxychlor to screens,

porches, doorways, and the interior.s

of houses. Pay special attention to

the flies' favorite resting places.

Treat breeding places and garbage

cans and surfaces surrounding them

with an oil solution or a spray jjre-

])ared from a DDT or methoxychlor

wettable powder or emulsifiable

concentrate. The wettable powdei'

spray .should contain 2.5 percent,

and "the emulsion 5 percent of the

toxicant. If the flies have developed resistance to DDT or methoxychlor, use a spray containing 0.3 to

0.5 percent of lindane or 2 percent

of chlordane. Use one of the same

sprays on barns, outbuildings, or

vegetation where flies rest. The

outdoor toilet should be made flytight.

In dairy barns and milk rooms

use methoxychlor or lindane but

not DDT or chlordane.

Wettable powders and emulsifiable concentrates containing various percentages of these toxicants

are on the markets, ready for dilution with water to obtain a spray of

the desired strength. Follow the

directions on the container for mixing insecticides.

2. Keep outdoor toilets free from

flies by spraying both inside and

outside with oiie of the sprays

described above. Put a handrul of

borax into the pit every 4 or 5 dayí.

3. Protect food from flies and

other insects.

4. Clean up breeding places of

flies.

Painting screen to keep out flies, mosquitoes, and punliies.

24
5. Keep garbage containers covered tight. Eemove garbage and

manure frequently. Burn or Ijury

garbage that cannot be used tov feed

or fertilizer. Manure and garbage

to be used for fertilizer should be

spread thin on fields so that it will

dry out rapidly and not support fly

development.

Mosquitoes, chiggers, gnats, and

ticks.—After a flood mosquitoes

may be more abundant in usual

mosquito territory and may also

appear in areas not usually troubled by them. In some sections malaria may be a menace if mosquitoes

are not controlled. Take the following steps :

1. Repair screens and spray them

with a 5-percent DDT oil solution

or emulsion. Use the spray also inside the house, especially in bedrooms. Spray under and behind

furniture, in dark places, and other

spots where mosquitoes may hide.

2. Use a household spray or an

aerosol bomb containing DDT and

pyrethrum for a quick kill of mosquitoes, as well as flies and other

insects that may get into houses.

3. Keep small children indoors,

especially early in the morning and

in the evening. Persons who must

go outside should cover all exposed

pai'ts of the body with a thin ñluí

of repellent, and also put repellent

on the clothing. This treatment

will protect against mosquitoes and

chiggers and give at least partial

protection from ticks. Treat bed

nets with a repellent. A good repellent is the G-2-2 mixture used by

the Armed Forces. If this mixture

is not available, use one of the components—dimethyl |)hthalate, ludalone, or repellent (i-12.

4. Empty the water from barrels,

cans, and other vessels, not only to

prevent mosquitoes from breeding,

but also because it may be polluted

by floodwaters.

5. Wherever possible, drain all

ponds, pools, or standing water in

wliich mosquitoes may develop. If

drainage is impossible, treat the

water with 5-perceut DDT oil solution, fuel oil, or other mosquito

larvicide. Drain or treat flooded

cellars and vaults.

Adult mosquitoes, flies, and gnats

may be controlled on a eommunitywicle basis with a fog or mist applied with special equipment or aircraft. Treatments may have to be

repeated two or three times a week

for several weeks, the number of

treatments depending on the severity of the insect-contiol problem

and how soon insects from surrounding territory enter the treated

area. Some pest-control ojierators

contract their services for fogging

infested premises.

Space spraying alone may not

suffice and it is expensive as well

as limited in scope. Control of

breeding spots should be given

high priority.

INSECT PESTS OF LIVESTOCK

Black flies or buffalo gnats,

when numerous, nuiy cause serious

losses in livestock, especially along

tributaries of the Mississippi" River

in Arkansas. Louisiana, Mississippi,

and Tennessee. Horn flies, stable

flies, and mosquitoes are also injurious to livestock. For controlling these pests use a spray containing 0.5 percent of DDT, methoxychlor, TDE. or Toxaphene prepared by adding a wettable powder

or emulsifiable concentrate to water.

Sprays containing pyrethrum ai'e

also useful for controlling all the

bloodsucking flies atl'ecting livestock.

Do not apply DDT, TDE, or toxaphene to dairy cows, for some of

the insecticide may appear in the

milk.

Met boxychlor or p y r e t h r u m

sprays may be used on dairy cows.

Remove livestock from low-lying

pastures along rivers and put them

on higher, open pastures.

Further infV)rmation on the control of these insects may be obtained

25
from the followinp; publications of

tlie Department of Agriculture:

Leaflet 182, House Fly Control;

Leaflet 283, Fly Control on Dairy

Cattle and in Dairy Barns. Publications issued by the Bureau of

Entomolopy and Plant Quarantine

include: Ë-401, The Southern

Buffalo Gnat; E-681, The Use of

DDT for Bedbug Control; E-685,

Control of Human Lice; E-698,

Use of Insect Repellants and Miticides ; and E-702, The New Insecticides for Controlling External

Parasites of Livestock.

RODENT CONTROL

Kats cause destruction in flooded

areas and are carriers for at least

six diseases. A control program for

flooded and flood-fringe aieas includes killing rats, removing rat

harborages, eliminating their food

supplies, and ratprooflng buildings.

Poisons for rats and other rodents

include such chemicals as red

squill, ANTU. and zinc phosphide.

They are used in baits.

Care must be exercised and directions followed closely to avoid

killing livestock, pets, and even

people.

Government technicians have even

more deadly rodenticides, some of

which are made into drinking baits.

These poisons are restricted to use

by qualified operators. United

States Public Health Service and

State and county health services

also make war on rodents.

RELIEF AND REHABILITATION SERVICES

Representatives of county, State,

and Federal agencies are on hand

to extend aid in flood disasters, both

in emergency relief and rehabilitation. American Red Cross maintains a national and four area offices

and is represented by a chapter in

every county. It gives emergency

assistance to meet the inunediate

needs of flood victims for food,

clothing, shelter, and medical and

nursing care. It also assists in rehabilitation on an individual family need basis. Red Cross services

are given outright; no loans are

made.

Health measures are described on

pages tl—7, 12. Public Health agencies give assistance in clean up

operations and sanitation. Rehabilitation services of the United

States Department of Agriculture

can be discussed with local representatives of the bureaus operating

within the flood area. Departmental aid includes several types of

loans to heli3 in rehabilitation.

Services of the Department's disaster loan programs are of great assistance to farmers who have suffered property or production losses

in flood areas. Ordinarily, under

the regular authorizations, departmental expenditures for relief or rehabilitation are made only for the

regular progTams and practices,

such as soil conservation. After

the Kansas-Missouri flood in 1951,

under special authorization from

Congress, the Department bought

feed to tide over livestock, assisted

farmers in seeding and rehabilitating their land, gave some financial

aid in carrying out the soil conservation program, and lent facilities,

engineering services, and machinery

to help the farmer clear drains and

repair terraces and outlets. Production and rehabilitation loans at

a low rate of interest were made in

sufficient amount to keep farmers

in business.

PRECAUTIONS AGAINST

FLOOD

Some things may be done to anticipate floods, or new rises of water.

Embankments and levees can be

strengthened, watergates closed.

Threatened spots may be reinforced

with brush and posts or rock,

ditches and drains opened, wells

moi'e or less protected by sandbag26
ging, culverts cleared and anchored

Hrmly, buildings braced, fire hazards removed.

If water has not already entered

the buildings, electric switches maj^

be thrown, but do not take chances

in the presence of water. Cut off

gas. Protect fuel tanks. Put out

heating and cooking fires before

leaving buildings. Inflammable

material should be removed and escape roads watched. Boats, if any,

can be securely fastened where they

will not be swamped or smashed.

If possible, notify local authorities

of your removal plans.

Move persons, household goods,

livestock, machinery, and feed supplies to higher ground or upper

stories of substantial buildings.

It is well to keep on the lookout

against new flood crests and not to

hurry back to the premises. ^Miere

safety precautions have been taken,

however, it may be possible to begin

cleaning out mud, silt, and debris

as the waters recede and before the

mud dries and cakes on floors and

walls. As the waters i^o down, it is

sometimes possible to float light

buildings back into place or to new

locations.

American Red Ci'oss tent-city slielter for victims of 19.r)l floud.

27
FIRST STEPS

1. See that everylwdy is s.-ife iiinl out of danger of new flood crests, lire, and falling

Ituildliiss.

2. Give full information and cooperation to local authorities, rescue squads, and

local Red Cross cliapter.

3. Arrange for shelter, food, clothing, transportation, medical supplies, and hospitalization (if availahle) for sick and injured.

4. ( )be.v health regulations ftir personal and communitj' protection against epidemics,

Rep<irt any violations.

5. Test plumbing fixtures hv flushing; with buckets of water. Have sanitary disposal

systems inspected by health authorities.

0. Have water supply tested. Boil or chlorinate emergency supplies of drinking'

water. Use no food that has heen contaminated. Destroy fresh foods that liavp

come into contact with Hood waters, and discard or use other foods according ID

recommendations on page 12. ,

7. Start vigorous clean-up of premises as soon as floodwater recedes; remove doors, j

clean and dry house before trying to live in it. In entering buildings, use flash- '

lights but no matches; do not turn on electric lights, furnace, or fixtures until 5

tested by electrician ; avoid nails, splinters, holes in floor or walls, and fall of wet

plaster.

8. Drain or pump water from basements. Get stoves or heating plant to work as Î

siKiU as possible. Heat hastens drying. Remove sediment from heaters, flues, |

and machines before using them.

9. Take all furniture and rugs iiutdoors and spread to air.

10. Start cleaning all liedding and clothing as soon as possible, using approved

methods recommended on pages 12-14 for safety and to minimize damage.

11. I lelay permanent repairs until buildings are thoroughly dried.

12. Use DDT and other insecticides against mosquitoes, flies, and vermin. Kill

riKlents. Avoid livestock diseases by moving stock to higher pastures. J

13. Spread wet feeds to dry. Be cautious in feeding these to livestock. Watch piled I

hay for spoilage, heating, and fire hazard. I

14. Dispose of animal carcas.ses pronijitly.

1.5. Submerged farm machinery should be taken apart and cleaned before it rusts.

Motors or engines must not be started until cleaned out and dried.

16. Clear and open drains, ditches, channels, small streams, and tile-drain outlets. (

Drain standing floodwater, if possible. I'lug breaks in dikes; use temporary i

structures to stop breaks, against recurrence of high water. Clear barbed wire ,

.uid other debris frolu lots and fields.

17. Avoid iiyerexertion and strain in lifting and moving heavy objects or loads. j

18. Whenever kero.sene is used, rare should be taken to keep heat, sparks, and open 1

flame at a distance to avoid rires.

U. S, GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1952

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office

Washington 25, D. C. - Price 10 cents

28