Learning More 

There are many sources of 

information about adopting, caring 

for and training wild horses and 

burros. 

The BLM's National Wild Horse and 

Burro Program website, 

www.wildhorseandburro.blm.gov 

contains helpful information and 

links to wild horse and burro mentor 

and adopter assistance 

organizations. 

Your local cooperative extension 

office may have a large animal 

specialist, and your veterinarian can 

provide additional information. 

Additionally, many horse trainers 

use gentle training techniques 

endorsed by the BLM. 

Good luck on your adventure with 

your wild horse or burro. 

Congratulations on
 

choosing a
 

"Friend for Life!"
 

Sign up to receive News.bytes, 

our free weekly e-newsletter, 

http://www.ca.blm.gov/caso/getnewsbytes.html 

U.S. Department of the Interior
 

Bureau of Land Management
 

2800 Cottage Way Suite W1834
 

Sacramento, CA 95825
 

(916) 978-4400
 

www.ca.blm.gov
 

BLM/CA/AE-2003/003+4700 

BLM

California
 

Making Friends
 with your 

Wild Horse or Burro 

U.S. Department of the Interior 

Bureau of Land Management 

www.ca.blm.gov 
"With time and patience, "With time and patience, 

you will discover how to 

communicate with your 

animal, and how he 

communicates with 

you." 

The content of this publication is the responsibility of the Bureau of
 

Land Management and not the individuals represented here.
 

Cover photo: Clockwise from top left - Horse trainer Monty Roberts; Horse trainer Phil 

West; Horse trainer Lesly Newman; Kathy Caitano with Kyle Wood and Cierra West 

Most wild horses and burros have no foot 

problems at the time of adoption. In captivity, 

however, the hooves will not wear as they did in 

the wild. You will need to have the animal’s 

hooves trimmed regularly, beginning about eight 

weeks after adoption, or as soon as the horse can 

be safely handled. The frequency of hoof 

trimming will depend on the soil conditions in your 

corral. Contact a reputable farrier to develop a 

hoof care schedule. 

Your animal’s teeth will also need regular care. 

Horse and burro teeth grow continuously through 

their lives, and are worn down as they eat. If the 

teeth wear unevenly, they develop sharp points 

that cause pain and prevent the animal from 

adequately chewing food. Your veterinarian can 

file down these points (a process called floating) 

as needed. Have your animal’s teeth checked 

regularly. Because of his diet in the wild, your 

horse or burro may show accelerated tooth wear 

compared to a domestic animal his age. 

17
Staying Healthy 

When you adopt, 

you will receive a 

complete set of 

health care 

records for your 

wild horse or 

burro. It shows 

vaccinations, 

treatments and 

blood test results. 

Requirements to 

keep your animal healthy are similar to domestic 

animals with few variations. A veterinarian 

specializing in the care and treatment of large 

animals will help you develop a health program 

based on preventative medicine. 

The vaccinations your horse or burro received at 

the BLM adoption center will not provide full 

immunity unless boosters are administered. 

Your veterinarian will tell you which are needed 

to protect your animal and advise you on a 

schedule for future vaccinations. 

Parasite control is vital for your wild horse or 

burro. Although the animal was wormed prior to 

adoption, additional treatment should be 

administered about four weeks after adoption 

and on a regular schedule every three months 

or so. Again, your veterinarian can advise on 

proper methods and schedules. Feed additive 

wormers can be used until your animal is 

sufficiently gentled for tube or paste worming. 

You will receive a 

complete set of 

health care records 

for your animal 

Thank you for your interest in adopting a 

wild horse or burro from your public lands 

Whether you are anticipating your first 

experience working with a wild horse or burro, 

or have previously adopted, you will find 

challenges and rewards in bringing your animal 

from the rangelands and into your family. 

As you begin to gentle, then train your horse or 

burro, you embark on a journey of discovery. 

With time and patience, you will discover how 

to communicate with your animal, and how he 

communicates with you. You will discover the 

amazing instincts and abilities of your horse or 

burro, and instincts and abilities 

deep within yourself. You will 

discover, as renowned trainer 

Monty Roberts says, a “Friend 

For Life.” 

The following tips are only 

introductory, intended to start you 

on the journey toward selecting 

an animal, meeting its health and 

care needs, then gentling it 

safely, without inflicting pain or 

fear. Many trainers recommend 

using these techniques, and 

have produced readily available 

training materials that provide all 

the details you will need. 

Professional gentling advice is 

also available specifically for 

burros. 

Reonna Miller with
 

Frosty
 

16 1
 
Deciding to adopt 

Consider the decision to adopt a wild horse or 

burro carefully. Do you have the facilities that 

meet BLM specifications? Can you afford to care 

for a wild horse or burro? Do you have the time 

to spend getting acquainted, gentling and 

training? If you are unsure about the expense, 

and the time and patience you will need, the 

BLM can put you in touch with an adopter or 

mentor. Adopt only when you feel certain that a 

wild horse or burro is right for you. 

At the Adoption 

BLM offers adoption opportunities at “satellite” 

events across the United States. A complete 

schedule is posted on the Internet at 

www.wildhorseandburro.blm.gov. You can also 

adopt at the various BLM wild horse and burro 

corrals also listed on the website. 

When you have decided to adopt, experts agree 

it is important to take time to make a careful 

selection. If you are adopting a horse, know the 

advantages and disadvantages of yearlings and 

older horses. Consider how you will use your 

horse, whether for pleasure riding, packing, 

endurance riding or competition, and select an 

animal with the size and conformation to meet 

your needs. Talk with other adopters and 

mentors and make an informed decision, not a 

selection based on emotion. There are also 

adopters and mentors who can provide similar 

advice about burros. 

him. Repeat the process over and over, petting 

and scratching more of him each time. Be extra 

careful when touching his legs and stomach. 

You will need to get him used to having his feet 

handled because your horse or burro will need to 

have his feet trimmed in the coming weeks. You 

will need to work toward this with the same slow, 

gentle process described above. When he 

finally lets you pick up a foot, hold it by the hoof, 

not the leg, as this is more comfortable for the 

horse. 

Time for Training 

When you have gained the confidence of your 

animal and established physical contact you are 

ready to begin training. At this point he is much 

like a domestic horse and should be treated in a 

similar manner. There are many training 

techniques, including various forms of advance 

and retreat methods. All should be combined 

with patience, kindness, gentleness and 

consistency. 

You can use books, videos and courses in horse 

training, or hire a professional trainer. Your 

local extension agent can assist you in learning 

more, or you can contact members of various 

mentor and adopter assistance groups that 

assist BLM adopters with training. Contact your 

nearest BLM office for information on these 

groups. 

2 15
Safety First! 

When you adopt a wild horse or burro, safety — 

for you and the animal — is the most important 

consideration. The first few days after adoption 

will probably be the most tense. A wild horse or 

burro is just as the name suggests — WILD. As 

a result, you must use extreme caution when you 

are around the animal during this period. 

Your animal will probably be quite frightened of 

you and the new, unfamiliar surroundings for the 

first several days. He may see you as a threat to 

his welfare and react defensively. Observe the 

following safety rules: 

• Always maintain a safe distance between you 

and the animal. Keep an escape route in mind. 

• Always speak softly 

to the horse or burro 

before approaching 

him. Do not attempt 

to sneak up to his 

corral — it will only 

frighten him. 

• Keep young children 

and pets out of the 

corral. Do not let them 

tease or excite the 

animal. 

14 3

horses. Although the following guidelines 

pertain specifically to horses, the same routine 

should be followed with your wild burro. 

Always remember that time and patience are the 

two major requirements here. Lots of time and 

lots of patience. While professional trainers 

demonstrate successful gentling techniques in 

only hours, it could be days or weeks before you 

can even pet your new horse. When that 

moment comes, however, you’ll know it was 

worth every minute. 

Having been in the corral for a few days, your 

horse should be tolerating your presence fairly 

well. Try sitting on a lower rail in the corral and 

talking or singing to him. He will eventually 

come over to you if you continue. If you want to 

approach the animal, lower your head slightly 

and round your shoulders, and he will see you 

as less of a threat. Always move slowly and 

continue talking. Don’t stare directly at him, but 

be sure to watch the animal at all times. If he 

resists, retreat and try again. It takes time. Be 

patient. 

When you are close enough to pet him and he 

seems willing to accept you, stay as close to his 

side as you can, always facing him, and slowly 

reach for his neck or shoulder. Do not reach for 

his face or toward his hind quarters yet. 

Do not tap or pat your animal with your hand, as 

it may startle him. A slow, firm rub with your 

hand has a quieting and communicating effect. 

Scratch his neck gently and continue talking to 

Remember - your 

adopted horse is wild. 

Work slowly and 

carefully. 
• Watch your animal’s reaction to you and his 

surroundings. If he bares his teeth or lays his 

ears back, stop what you are doing. 

• Consider using a round corral for gentling and 

training to avoid being trapped in a corner. 

For your animal’s safety, we suggest: 

• Never tying a wild horse until he is gentled. In 

a struggle to free himself, he may injure his neck 

or back muscles. 

• Keeping dogs and other small animals away 

from your wild horse or burro at first. Barking 

dogs, in particular, may frighten him. 

• Using feed and water containers with rounded 

edges. 

• Ensuring no bolts, nails or sharp objects 

protrude into the corral. 

• Checking the lead 

rope frequently to be 

sure it has not become 

entangled in the corral 

or the animal’s legs. 

• Making certain the 

halter is the correct size 

for your animal’s head, 

especially if he is still 

growing. 

BLM Ranger Rich 

Smith patrols on a 

trained wild horse Julie Hueftle with 

Alyssa Shepard 

and Jake 

After your horse or burro is 

gentled, you may wish to turn him 

out to a pasture to graze. A 

legume/grass pasture in good 

condition provides most of the 

nutrients the animal will need. 

Unless you provide supplemental 

feed and exercise, you will need a 

minimum of two acres of cultivated 

pasture per animal to provide 

adequate food and exercise 

space, and to control internal 

parasites. Native pastures may 

need to be considerably larger 

than two acres to supply adequate 

forage. 

Pay close attention to formulating 

a balanced diet for your animal. 

You must consider many factors, 

including the animal’s age, sex, level of activity, 

and physical condition, and the availability of 

various feeds. Contact your local cooperative 

extension specialist or your veterinarian for 

assistance. 

Making Friends 

Even if you have no intention of training your 

wild horse or burro to ride, pull a wagon or do 

any other kind of work, every wild horse or burro 

needs to be gentled sufficiently to allow people 

to work with him safely. In general, wild burros 

are much easier to domesticate than wild 

4 13
 
Use only good quality grain, free of bugs, dust, 

mold and musty odors. Keep the grain supply 

stored out of your animal’s reach. Accidental 

over consumption may cause colic, founder, 

permanent damage to feet, and even death in 

severe cases. 

When he is accustomed to eating grains, an 

average daily diet for a 1,000 pound adult horse 

is 15 to 20 pounds of hay and four to eight 

pounds of grain. For a 375-pound adult burro, 

feed eight to 12 pounds of grass or mixed hay, 

and up to two pounds of grain. Use this only as 

a guide. Adjust your animal’s diet according to 

his need to gain or lose weight. 

A horse’s digestive 

system is designed 

for small, frequent 

meals. Divide your 

animal’s feed into at 

least two, preferably 

three, meals daily 

(morning, noon and 

evening). It is 

important to feed on 

a regular schedule. 

It is common to feed 

a third of the grain 

at each feeding. 

Half or more of the 

hay is usually fed in the evening, with the 

remainder divided between the other two 

feedings. If hay is fed only twice daily, feed 

about two thirds in the evening. 

Work with your vet 

or animal care 

specialist to 

develop a balanced 

diet. 

Use extreme 

caution around 

your animal 

during the first 

few days 

Safety is important long after your wild horse or 

burro is gentled. Follow these basic safety rules 

as part of your daily routine when working with 

your horse or burro: 

• Never approach an 

animal directly from 

the rear. He cannot 

see you if you are 

directly behind him. 

If you startle him, 

you might be kicked. 

• Always walk 

around the front or 

rear of an animal 

with enough room so 

that stepping over 

the rope is not 

necessary. 

• If an animal is gentle, always work as close as 

possible to it. You cannot be kicked by the 

animal if you are standing next to its shoulder. If 

the animal does kick while you are working close 

by its haunches or passing behind it, you will not 

receive the full force of the kick. 

• Wear boots to protect your feet should the 

animal step on your toes. Wear gloves to 

prevent rope burns. 

• When tying an animal, be sure the post is 

secure and cannot be pulled loose. Never tie an 

animal to a wire fence. Always tie the animal’s 

12 5
lead rope higher than the withers, with 

approximately two feet of slack, using a quickrelease knot. 

• Never tie an animal by the reins. He could be 

hurt, or break the reins, if he pulls backward. Provide food and 

water 

immediately in • Never tie an animal inside a trailer before the containers with 

tailgate is closed. Always untie before the no sharp edges 

tailgate is opened. Place a layer of sand or 

similar material on the trailer floor so the animal 

can maintain its footing. 

Abundant clean water is essential. Adult horses 

reins around your hands, wrists or body. 

• Never wrap the lead rope, halter shank or 

need 15 to 20 gallons daily. Your animal may 

prefer to drink from a trough rather than a water 

bucket. Make sure the water container cannot 

leading. If the animal rears up, release the hand 

• Use a long lead rope and both hands when 

be tipped over easily. Use tank heaters to keep 

nearest to the halter so you can maintain your water from freezing or becoming too cold to 

balance. drink. 

You may wish to introduce grains after your 

ahead or behind. 

• When leading an animal, walk beside it, not 

horse or burro adjusts to the all hay diet. We 

recommend starting with rolled, crimped or 

crushed oats, which your animal will find tasty 

so don’t try to out pull them. 

• Horses and burros are stronger than humans, 

and readily digestible. You may add ground corn 

later. It has more carbohydrates and lower fiber, 

Going Home which is useful for adding weight. Be careful to

watch for digestive problems. Equal parts of You must transport your wild horse or burro in a oats and ground corn make a good ration. stock truck or trailer that meets BLM 

Commercial horse rations (often equal parts of specifications. BLM prefers stock trailers over oats and corn mixed with molasses) may also be two-horse trailers. It’s best to check with the 

used, but we don’t recommend feeding grain BLM office hosting your adoption event for any sorghum. specific trailer requirements. You will need to 

provide a halter and lead rope so the BLM 6 11
moldy, because it can cause respiratory
 

problems and colic.
 

Hay should be relatively weed free. The high 

moisture content of weeds often causes moldy 

hay. Thorny weeds can hurt your animal’s lips 

and mouth, and some weeds are poisonous to 

horses and burros. 

Your animal probably received alfalfa hay during 

his stay at a BLM adoption facility. It is the 

highest quality hay available in most parts of the 

West. However, alfalfa hay is hard to find in 

many areas of the East, and quality grass hays 

such as Timothy, orchard grass, brome grass 

and Bermuda may be used. Mixed hays 

(combinations of grass and alfalfa hays or other 

legume hays) also are excellent. We do not 

recommend feeding your animal fescue 

(especially to pregnant or lactating females) or 

Sudan grass because they can cause serious 

medical problems. 

We recommend mixed hay or grass hay for your 

burro. If only legume hays are available, look for 

second cuttings or more mature harvests that 

have lower protein content. 

Also provide your horse or burro with trace 

mineralized salt, fed on a free-choice basis. 

Pregnant or lactating mares and jennies, and 

immature animals may also need extra calcium 

and phosphorus. Dicalcium phosphate or 

ground limestone may be fed free-choice 

separately from the salt. 

wranglers can halter and load the animal into 

your trailer. 

Bringing your animal home presents some 

special considerations. Pulling a trailer 

containing an animal is challenging. These tips 

will help you have a safe trip home: 

• Drive at reasonable speeds. Drive slowly on 

sharp turns. Horses and burros have good 

balance front to back, but not side to side. 

• Leave plenty of stopping room between you 

and the vehicle in front. Apply the brakes slightly 

before stopping to allow the animal to brace 

itself. Avoid city rush hours. 

• If you stop for a rest, do not unload the animal 

unless you have the proper facilities and have 

made arrangements with BLM. It’s best not to 

feed or water your animal in the trailer. 

• Have your animal’s health records ready for 

inspection if you will be crossing state 

boundaries. 

Home at Last 

Now that you’ve arrived at home you need to 

carefully unload your horse or burro into his new 

corral — the solidly-constructed facility that 

provides 400 square feet of living space per 

animal. 

Back your trailer completely to the corral gate so 

your animal cannot escape around the sides of 

the trailer while he is being unloaded. If he is 

10

7
8 9

A short time ago, your animal 

lived in the wild and was 

rounded-up from the rangelands 

hesitant to leave the trailer, stand in front of the 

trailer and motion toward him. He will probably 

back out simply to escape you. Immediately 

close the gate after he enters the corral. 

Now, allow him time to adjust to new 

surroundings. Remember, in just a short amount 

of time, your animal was trucked from a BLM 

holding facility, spent time at an adoption site, 

and was then hauled to your corral. Give him 

some time to explore the corral 

and become familiar with the 

new sights, scents and sounds. 

Give him food and water 

immediately in containers with 

no sharp edges. Keep flapping 

articles such as loose papers, 

laundry, etc. away from the 

corral. It’s best to keep 

children, barking dogs and 

machinery away for several 

days to give the animal time to 

quietly adjust to his new 

surroundings. Don't turn your 

horse or burro out into a large 

pasture until he can be 

approached, haltered, handled 

and led. 

Meal Time 

Proper horse and burro nutrition is a complex 

subject. Contact your veterinarian or 

cooperative extension agent specializing in the 

care and feeding of large animals to discuss a 

suitable diet for your region of the country. The 

following suggestions are general in nature. 

Remember that wild horses and burros are 

accustomed to the grasses and shrubs from their 

western rangelands. Start your horse or burro 

on a hay diet. You will need to provide about 25 

to 30 pounds per day for an adult horse, and 

about 10 to 15 pounds daily for a burro (about 

three percent of the animal’s weight). Pregnant 

or lactating mares and jennies 

need diets with more protein, 

vitamins and minerals. Animals 

living in cold climates need 

more feed, as they burn more 

energy to keep warm. 

The hay should have at least a 

10 percent protein content. 

Legume hays such as alfalfa 

supply more than enough 

protein to meet the standard. 

Many grass hays are deficient 

in protein, and you might need 

to add a supplement such as 

soybean oil meal. 

The quality of hay is more 

important than the type. Hays 

harvested at the pre-bloom or early bloom stages 

have higher nutrient content than late-cut hays. 

Hay should be bright green and have a newmown scent. Check on the inside of the bale for 

color. Sun bleaching on the outside will not 

affect the nutritional contents of the inside. 

Brown hay throughout the bale indicates a loss 

of nutritional value. Do not use hay that smells