91

I

II

III

Why Should You Plant a School Garden?..........92

 

Getting Started............................................92-94

• Types of Gardens (outdoor/indoor)

• Garden Safety 

• Time Management 

Building the Garden.......................................94-95 • Tool List 

• Garden Site Selection and Analysis 

• Soil 

• Irrigation 

Planting the Garden......................................95-99

• Recommended Plant List 

• Growing Guide 

Garden Maintenance..................................100-107

• Gathering Support 

• Planting Seeds

• Starting Seeds Inside 

• Starting Seeds Outside 

• Transplanting 

• Watering 

• Weeding

• Fertilizing 

• Mulching 

• Pests and Disease Problems 

• Harvesting Guide 

• Collaboration 

• Working with Volunteers 

Additional Resources & References................107

IV

V

VI

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Gardening Guide

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 91
Why Should You Plant a School Garden?

There is much research supporting school gardens. Some of the benefits 

to having students learn about and work in a garden include:

• Increased fruit and vegetable consumption

 (McAleese & Rankin, 2007)

• Improved nutrition knowledge and vegetable preferences

 (Morris & Zidenberg-Cherr, 2002; Lineberger & Zajicek, 2000)

• Increased science achievement scores

 (Klemmer, Waliczek, & Zajicek, 2005; Smith & Motsenbocker, 2005)

• Improved social skills and behavior 

 (DeMarco, Relf, & McDaniel, 1999) 

• Improved environmental attitudes

 (Waliczek & Zajicek, 1999; Skelly & Bradley, 2000)

When students get hands-on experiences, it transforms abstract learning 

into something very real and meaningful. Creating this connection for children 

by enabling them to play a role in the success of the harvest can give them 

greater ownership of the garden and increase the likelihood that they will 

adopt the healthy behaviors associated with it. Learning these behaviors at a 

young age makes it easier for kids to maintain healthy habits into adulthood 

(Lohr & Pearson-Mims, 2005). 

Read on to learn about the many types of gardens, how to plan and maintain 

them, and ways to gather support from the school and parent community to 

help build something special.

Types of Gardens

You don’t need to be an expert gardener or have a green thumb. This guide 

will help even the most novice of gardeners create a special place for children 

to learn – whether your school has a large plot of land or a sunny windowsill. 

The type of garden you choose will depend on your school’s space, 

resources, and volunteer level.

In-Ground

This is the traditional outdoor garden. Unless the area has been cultivated 

before, you will either need vigorous help from adult volunteers or a tiller to 

break the compacted soil prior to planting. You will need to test the soil to 

ensure there are no contaminants. Adding compost to the beds each year 

can replenish nutrients. 

I

II Getting Started

GARDEN SAFETY

Gardening is fun, but certain 

safety precautions must be 

followed:

ESTABLISH GARDEN RULES

Students can write them on 

a poster and sign their names 

in agreement. A few suggestions 

might include:

• Always put tools away 

 so no one trips over them.

• Ask for help: Don’t try to lift 

 plants, dirt, or tools that 

 are too heavy for you.

• Be careful with sharp tools 

 like shovels or hoes. 

• Always handle those tools 

 slowly and carefully.

• No running in the garden.

• Wear closed-toe shoes.

REQUIRE PROPER HAND WASHING

of all persons working in the 

garden, including staff, students, 

and volunteers. Hands should be 

washed before and after working 

in the garden. Hands should be 

washed using soap and water. 

Alcohol-based (>60%), rinse-free 

hand sanitizers should be used 

when hand washing with soap is 

not possible. Hand sanitizers 

are not as effective when hands 

are visibly dirty. See pp. 4-5 

for proper hand-washing 

guidelines. Do not let anyone 

work in the garden while sick, 

or until 24 hours after 

symptoms, such as 

vomiting or diarrhea, 

have subsided.

GARDENING GUIDE

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93

BE SURE TO CLEAN AND 

SANITIZE GARDEN EQUIPMENT

and containers that are 

used to hold produce.

DOCUMENT AND POST 

STUDENT ALLERGY INFORMATION

where teachers and volunteers 

can see it easily, along with 

procedures to follow in the 

event of an allergic reaction.

GARDEN SAFETY

To keep your garden safe, 

use only nontoxic, non-leaching 

materials, whether constructing 

raised beds or using containers. 

Avoid pressure-treated wood, 

used tires, single-use plastics, 

old railroad ties, etc. Create 

reasonable barriers to keep wild 

animals away from the garden, 

such as fencing, or cages to place 

over produce items. 

Keep in mind these features 

you may want to include:

• Experimental areas 

 for student inquiry

• Compost area

• Toolshed/storage

• Outdoor classroom/

meeting area

• Greenhouse/cold frame 

• Community 

growing space

Raised Beds

A raised-bed garden allows you to start with healthy soil right from the beginning. 

The beds are framed with either rot-resistant wood (like cedar), concrete blocks, or 

recycled plastic planking, and are then filled with soil. These are framed structures, 

typically 9 inches tall on soil, or up to 2 feet tall on paved surfaces. A raised-bed 

garden is usually more expensive at first, but the benefits may outweigh the costs. 

Raised beds are easier to cultivate, have fewer weed and drainage problems, and 

the raised soil and plants are protected from foot traffic. The soil in a raised-bed 

garden also warms up more quickly, adding valuable time to the growing season. 

This can be especially important for a school garden that is only available to 

students during the school year.

Containers

Even if you have little space, poor soil, or are surrounded by cement and blacktop, 

you can still have a thriving garden and nutrition education experience. Containers 

can be used indoors or outdoors. Typically, garden containers are made of clay, 

plastic, or wood, but plants will grow in anything that holds soil and has drainage 

holes. Window boxes and hanging baskets work well if you have little or no ground 

space, but be sure to use lightweight containers if they will be hanging. By adding 

handles or wheels, you can move plants to where they’ll grow best as conditions 

change. Containers allow you to maximize your space by taking advantage of small 

sunny window ledges and courtyards. 

When choosing what type of containers to use, keep in mind the larger the container,

the larger the plant you can grow to maturity. Some plants (e.g., tomatoes) require 

deeper soil for the root system; therefore a deep pot is essential. Others (e.g., beets, 

radishes, spinach) have compact roots, which do not require a deep container. 

Smaller containers dry out more quickly than larger containers, but larger containers 

with more soil and larger plants are more difficult to move. 

Containers need proper drainage, otherwise the roots may drown. If the container 

doesn’t have drainage holes, make 1⁄2-inch holes at or near the bottom of the pot. 

Elevate containers that have drainage holes on the bottom with blocks or bricks to 

allow water to drain out of the holes.

Indoor Gardening

Indoor gardens are a good option for areas where winters are long and growing 

seasons are short. The location for an indoor garden is in front of well-lit windows. 

Windows that face south and west are best and usually receive enough light to 

grow leaf and root vegetables and herbs. Spend a few days observing your window 

space to determine how much light is available for an indoor garden.

Grow lights designed to hang low over growing areas are an effective way to grow 

indoor crops. With grow lights, you can control the amount of light your plants 

receive and expand your crop options to produce like tomatoes and strawberries.

GARDENING GUIDE 

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 93
Time Management

School days are very busy, but careful planning will ensure that your students 

make the most of their time. Here are some time management suggestions:

Assign students to small garden teams and allow them to name their group. Before

you visit the garden, identify jobs and locations, and plan how the teams will rotate 

through these jobs so everyone gets to try each task and no location gets too crowded.

Here are some ideas of tasks to include on this list:

• Harvest

• Observe (Discover changes in the garden, identify occupants such as 

 birds, butterflies, and bees, and note where they tend to visit in the garden.)

• Prune

• Water

• Weed

• Write a column/draw a picture for the school garden newsletter

Garden Site Selection and Analysis

Many factors may influence the location of your school garden:

• Is the garden visible to passersby? Allowing others to enjoy its progress 

 is a great way to rally support and interest in the program!

• How easily can students get to the garden? 

• Where is the nearest water source? (Water is essential, after all.) 

• How much sunlight does the garden get each day?

• What type of soil is in the garden? Has it been tested for contaminants? 

 Can it be improved if necessary?

• Does the garden allow for future expansion? When beginning a school 

 garden, it’s best to start small. However, with increasing support, the school

 may choose to expand, allowing more students to get involved. 

• Will this garden be ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) accessible? Is 

 there potential for providing resources for students with special needs?

Soil

Healthy soil is critical to the success of your garden. Soil anchors roots and 

provides water and nutrients to the plants. Soil is composed of minerals and 

organic matter: sand, silt, and clay are the mineral particles; the organic matter is 

decayed remains of once-living plants and animals. Good plant growth and 

development depend on the mineral and nutrient content of soil, as well as the 

amount of sand, silt, and clay present.

Soil particles are nonliving, but are teaming with life, including microorganisms 

like bacteria and fungi, and larger animals such as worms and sowbugs. Many of 

these underground inhabitants feed on remains of plants and animals, breaking 

down their tissues. In the process, they aerate the soil and release nutrients that 

plants need. 

III Building the Garden

TOOL LIST

Keep your list as simple and 

inexpensive as you can, though 

you may want the following tools 

available to your students:

• Trowels for planting 

 and digging up weeds

• Stakes for marking garden 

 beds/walkways/label 

 planted areas

• Iron rake for leveling soil

• Twine/string for marking 

 out garden beds/pathways

• Leaf rake for raking up debris

• Hoes for weeding

• Pruning shears/scissors for 

 harvesting produce/cleaning up

 plants

• Shovels for moving soil 

 and digging larger holes

• Harvest containers (To avoid 

 contaminating the harvest, the 

 containers should be sanitized 

 and have never been used for 

 holding chemicals.)

• Wheelbarrows for moving 

 dirt and garden supplies

• Water cans/hoses/

 spray nozzles 

GARDENING GUIDE

BEFORE YOU DIG

• Choose a garden site away from 

 potential contamination sources 

 (such as garbage, utilities, animals,

 water runoff, flooding, and septic

 systems).

• Contact your local utility 

 company, or dial 811 (the national 

 “Call Before You Dig” number), 

 before digging a site for your 

 garden to ensure that you 

 avoid gas or electric lines. 

• Identify soil and water record 

 history from all sources. Test 

 new soil and water samples 

 for contaminants (see more 

 on p. 95).

94 Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov
95

IV Planting the Garden

You can learn which macro- and micronutrients are available in your soil and compare 

that with what is needed by plants for good development and growth. Soil tests will 

reveal pH levels, or measure the degree of acidity or alkalinity, of your soil. Maintaining 

a pH balance of your soil is essential to the health of your plants and influences the 

availability of essential nutrients in the soil. You should also have soil tested to 

determine levels of contaminants such as chemicals, pesticides, and lead, especially 

if the site is located near high-traffic zones. Contact your local Cooperative Extension 

Office for information on soil testing services available in your area. 

Irrigation

While an automatic irrigation system is ideal for school gardens to keep up with 

watering throughout the growing season, the systems can be expensive and 

challenging to install. Watering can always be done the old-fashioned way, by using 

a hose. Take care to minimize water pressure so the soil doesn’t loosen and drain 

away (you can attach a spray nozzle to diffuse the water spray), and take care not 

to drag the hose over plants. 

Kids love water. Providing many smaller watering cans will allow students to participate 

in this task. Be careful not to flood walkways, which can present a safety hazard.

Test all water sources, other than municipal sources, annually for potentially harmful 

organisms. Ensure your water meets the standards of the Environmental Protection 

Agency (EPA). Contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for assistance. Use 

food-grade containers to transport water samples, and be sure to maintain water 

testing records annually.

Recommended Plant List

Each lesson in Dig In! features specific fruits or vegetables (or subgroup of vegetables) 

that were chosen because they have a relatively high success rate for growing in a 

school environment. These fruits and vegetables are also usually available in local 

markets, making it easy to supplement the school garden harvest to make sure all 

students are able to taste the produce. However, each lesson allows for flexibility if 

you’d like to substitute a different vegetable from that subgroup. The list of veggies 

below has been organized by their subgroups, but is by no means comprehensive. 

Visit http://www.choosemyplate.gov for a complete list of vegetable subgroups.

Planting instructions refer to frost-free dates. These are identified for each geographic

area as an estimate of the first date (fall) and last date (spring) in which cold temperatures

are likely to occur and cause damage to susceptible plants. You can find out 

your frost-free dates by contacting your local Cooperative Extension Office 

http://www.nifa.usda.gov/Extension/.

Important Note: Instructions in the Growing Guide are meant to provide general 

guidelines for planting. Since timing and basic care can vary by plant variety, always 

follow the planting instructions on the back of the seed packet.

DEFINITIONS

The following terms found 

on seed packets describe the 

growing cycle of the plant and 

will help you select the best 

plants for your school garden. 

Take into consideration that 

perennials and biennials will likely 

require summer care when many 

schools are not in session. 

Depending on your climate, 

annuals may be chosen that 

will complete their growing 

cycle during the school year. 

Annual

Completes its life cycle in one 

season and die after producing 

seeds (e.g., lettuce, kale, spinach)

Perennial

plant whose life cycle is longer 

than two seasons (e.g., strawberries, 

blueberries, fruit trees)

Biennial

plant that lives for two seasons 

(stores energy during the first 

season, produces seeds and dies 

the second). For example, some 

root crops like carrots and beets 

form the root in one season, and 

the flowering/seed-producing 

tops in the next season. 

However, we harvest the 

root for consumption prior 

to allowing the plant 

to flower.

GARDENING GUIDE

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 95
 Vegetable/Fruit Planting Instructions Basic Care Information and 

Edible Plant Part Spring Fall Planting Plant Days to Days to 

 Depth Spacing Germinate Harvest

DARK-GREEN VEGETABLES

1⁄4” 15”-18” 5-10 60-75 

1⁄4” 10”-12” 4-10 45-70

1⁄2” 5-10 40

1⁄2” 5-10 70-80

BROCCOLI

(Lessons 1, 4, 7)

Flower

SEEDS: Plant indoors 4-6 weeks 

before last frost date.

TRANSPLANTS: Plant outdoors 

3-4 weeks before last frost date.

SEEDS:

Plant indoors 17 weeks 

before rst frost date;

transplant outdoors 12 

weeks before rst frost 

date. Protect from heat.

COLLARD

GREENS

Leaves

KALE

(Lesson 2)

Leaves

LEAF LETTUCE

(Lessons 1, 2)

Leaves

SEEDS: Plant directly in garden 3 weeks 

before last frost date; start seeds indoors 

6-8 weeks before last frost date and 

transplant outdoors 2 weeks before 

last frost date.

SEEDS: Plant indoors 6-8 weeks before 

last frost date; start seeds outdoors 

as soon as soil can be worked. 

TRANSPLANTS: Plant in garden 2 

weeks before last frost date.

SEEDS: Plant indoors 6-8 weeks before 

last frost date; transplant outdoors 

3 weeks before last frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant 10 weeks 

before rst 

frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant outdoors 

8 weeks before 

rst frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant outdoors 6-8 

weeks before 

rst frost date.

1

MUSTARD GREENS /3” - 1⁄2” 3”-5” 5-10 45

(Lesson 2)

Leaves

SEEDS: Plant outdoors 3 weeks before 

last frost date and again 

3 weeks later.

SEEDS: 

Plant 4-6 weeks 

before rst frost date.

1” 8”-12” 4-14 45-55 SWISS CHARD

Leaves

SEEDS: Plant outdoors 2-3 weeks 

before last frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant 6 weeks before 

rst frost date.

SEEDS: 

In warmer climates, 

plant outdoors 13 weeks 

before rst frost date. 

Protect from heat.

1

/4” 4” 6-14 40-55 SPINACH

(Lesson 2)

Leaves

SEEDS: Plant outdoors 4-6 weeks 

before last frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant 4-6 weeks before 

rst frost date.

3”; thin to 6” 

apart once 

seedlings 

are a few 

inches tall

4”; thin 

to 12”-18” 

when 

seedlings 

are a few 

inches tall

CARROT 1⁄2” 1⁄2” 10-17 60-80 

(Lessons 1, 6, 7)

Root

SEEDS: Plant outdoors 3-4 weeks 

before last frost date; continue 

plantings every 3-4 weeks to stagger 

harvest throughout growing season.

RED AND ORANGE VEGETABLES

Growing Guide

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97

GARDENING GUIDE 

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 97
 Vegetable/Fruit Planting Instructions Basic Care Information

 and

Edible Plant Part Spring Fall Planting Plant Days to Days to 

 Depth Spacing Germinate Harvest

1⁄2” 2”-4” 7-10 50-75

4” 10”-15” 10-15 70-100 POTATOES

Tuber

BEETS

Root

SEED POTATOES: Early varieties can be 

planted outdoors as soon as soil can be 

worked; cut seed potatoes so there are 

2-3 eyes per seed; dig trenches 

6” wide, 6” deep, and 30-36” apart.

SEEDS: Plant outdoor 30 days before 

last frost date; continue planting 

every 3-4 weeks into summer.

SEEDS: 

Plant 8-10 weeks 

before rst 

frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant 15 weeks 

before rst 

frost date.

1⁄4”-1⁄2” 5-10 80-100 BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Leaves

SEEDS: 

Plant 4 months before 

rst frost date.

3”-4”; thin to 

14”-24” when 

seedlings 

are a few 

inches tall.

1/4” 18” 4-10 60-100 CABBAGE

Leaves

SEEDS: Start indoors 50-60 days 

before last frost date.

TRANSPLANT: Plant outdoors 2-3 weeks 

before last frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant in garden 

13-14 weeks before 

rst frost date. 

Protect from heat.

SEEDS: 

In warmer 

climates, plant 

indoors 20 weeks 

before rst frost 

date; transplant 

outdoors 16 weeks 

before rst 

frost date. 

Not recommended 

for fall planting.

1” 12”-24” 3-8 60-80 CUCUMBERS

(Lesson 3, 6, 9)

Fruit

SEEDS: Start indoors 4-6 weeks 

before last frost date; plant outside 

after the danger of frost has passed.

SEEDS: 

Plant 14 weeks 

before rst 

frost date.

SEEDS: 

Plant 12 weeks 

before rst 

frost date. 

1” 6”-8” 4-10 55-65 GREEN BEANS

Seeds

SEEDS: Plant outdoors when 

danger of frost has passed.

1⁄2” 10”- 12” 4-10 80-100 GREEN & YELLOW 

PEPPERS

(Lessons 9)

Fruit

SEEDS: Start indoors 8-10 weeks 

before last frost date.

TRANSPLANTS: Plant outdoors 

after last frost date.

Seed: 1⁄4” 4”-6” 4-12 60-90

 SET:

 depth 

 of bulb. 

ONIONS

Root

SEEDS: Start indoors 8-10 weeks 

before last frost date. 

SETS: (TRANSPLANTS) more 

common, start outdoors 3 weeks 

before last frost date.

STARCHY VEGETABLES (CONTINUED)

OTHER VEGETABLES

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99

GARDENING GUIDE

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V

Gathering Support

It takes a village to grow and maintain a school garden. Fortunately, there are 

many ways to enlist help.

• Administrators can help find needed resources.

• Parent or family volunteers can form a garden team and increase the 

 sustainability of the program. 

• Teachers can collaborate or team-teach the garden program, which helps to spread

 the work across many people and increases the curricular integration of the gardens.

• Students can be involved in all stages of the process, whether through 

 classroom activities or after-school clubs, and will feel empowered by 

 the responsibility.

 - Let students help choose which fruits/vegetables will be planted in the 

 garden. This will increase the likelihood that the students will want to taste

 them when it’s time to harvest. 

 - Relax your standards. While it is important to guide students on proper 

 planting techniques, students’ creativity and effort should not be discounted.

 - Allow students time to explore and enjoy their garden.

• Community volunteers can help maintain gardens. Reach out to your local 

 Master Gardeners, Girl and Boy Scout troops, or school neighbors.

Planting Seeds

You can plant seeds directly outside, or you can start them inside and transplant 

the seedlings outdoors. There are a couple of advantages to starting plants indoors. 

Students are able to closely observe the germination process day-by-day, and it 

extends your growing season by allowing for “starter plants” indoors until the growing 

conditions outside are favorable. See the Recommended Fruit and Vegetable List

(pp. 96-99) to identify the best method of starting seeds and/or transplants 

for your garden.

Here are some considerations when planning to start seeds indoors:

The seedlings’ temperature tolerance Some seedlings, including salad greens 

and peas, are hardy and can tolerate cold temperatures, so you can plant them 

early in the spring, or in warmer climates, right through the winter! Others, such as 

legumes and green beans, aren’t cold-hardy so you must wait to plant them until 

the chance of frost has passed. When you plant fall and winter gardens, wait until 

the temperatures cool before sowing (planting) seeds of heat-intolerant seedlings. 

Always follow the planting guidelines on the back of the seed packet.

Transplant Tolerance Seeds that germinate and grow better when sown directly 

into the garden include beans, lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, squash, and peas. 

Others are more successful if you start them inside (or purchase them at a garden 

center or nursery) for transplant into the garden, including tomatoes. There are 

still others that aren’t fussy either way. This information should be detailed on 

seed packets.

Garden Maintenance

LABELING

Have students choose a 

method of labeling their plants. 

One way is to write the plant name 

and date on masking tape and stick 

it to the outside of the container. 

This label usually lasts quite well. 

You might also use an upright label 

for quick reference, but these tend 

to get lost more easily.

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101

COMPANION PLANTING

Some plants appear to perform 

better when grown near other specific 

plants. Growing plants near others that 

complement each other’s growth 

is called “companion planting.”

One example is a Three Sisters 

Garden. According to Iroquois 

legend, corn, squash, and beans 

are three “inseparable sisters” who 

must be close to each other to thrive. 

Tall corn stalks provide support for 

the pole or climbing beans to climb. 

Beans convert nitrogen from the air 

into a form the corn plants can use. 

Squash (such as trailing summer 

squash) is a low-growing plant that 

blocks out sunlight from weeds, 

inhibiting their growth. (See the student 

handout Garden Companions (p. 79) 

in Lesson 5 to learn more about 

companion planting.)

Other plants that are good 

“companions” are:

• Spinach and peas and beans: 

Peas and beans provide muchneeded natural shade for the 

dark leafy greens.

• Beets and leaf lettuce: Beets add 

minerals, like magnesium, to the 

soil through composting their leaves 

which helps lettuces, and other 

leafy greens grow.

• Tomatoes, peppers, basil or 

oregano (herbs): These fruit plants 

require high humidity and benefit from 

shade, so they benefit from each 

other when planted together 

or with leafy herbs.

• Marigolds: These flowers 

produce an odor which naturally 

repels insects that can attack 

vegetable plants, which is why 

many farmers advise to plant 

them in a garden.

Starting Seeds Inside

1. Use shallow containers (2” to 3” deep) with drainage holes.

2. Fill containers with a lightweight soil-less potting mix. These mixes are made

 primarily of ground peat moss and have been sterilized, so they are less apt 

 than garden soil to contain weed seeds, fungi, and bacteria that may hamper

 growth. These mixes also provide good drainage with the aeration and 

 moisture seedlings need.

3. Moisten the soil before placing it in containers. If you can squeeze a handful 

 of the mix and water comes out, it is too wet and you’ll need to add more of

 the dry mix. The ideal moisture level will feel like a well-wrung sponge.

4. Plant seeds according to the instructions on the packets. If you do not see

 instructions about how deep to plant your seeds, a simple rule is to plant them 

 11⁄2 to 2 times deeper than the width of the seed.

5. Water after planting using the mist setting on a spray bottle.

6. Place trays in a location that receives 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight or under

 fluorescent lights for 12 to 14 hours per day. Under lights, keep seedlings

 within 2 to 3 inches of the bulbs.

7. Most seeds germinate best in warm and humid conditions. Comfortable room

 temperatures (65 to 72 °F) are adequate for most seeds, but if your area is

 cooler, you can increase the soil temperature with a heat mat (type of heating

 pad used to increase the temperature of the soil in a seed tray).

8. Check daily to make sure the mix is moist. With the right conditions, most

 garden seeds should germinate in 7 to 14 days (unless otherwise noted on 

 the seed packet).

Starting Seeds Outside

1. Prepare garden beds ahead of time.

2. Work with students to mark rows and beds, and then sow your seeds, 

 following the instructions on the seed packet for planting depth and spacing

 between seeds.

3. After planting, water the bed using a gentle soaking spray. A strong stream 

 of water may cause seeds to float to the lowest part of the garden. Check to 

 make sure moisture penetrates a few inches into the soil by inserting your finger

 into the soil.

4. Encourage students to keep a close watch on the garden, and to keep the soil

 moist but not soaking, since excess moisture can cause seeds to rot. 

 

GARDENING GUIDE

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 101
Transplanting

Seedlings: When seedlings have three to four true leaves, you can transplant 

them into larger pots or into your garden. “True” leaves are the first set of leaves 

on a plant that will photosynthesize. The first pair of leaves that appears is the 

“cotyledons.” Have students observe the emergence of the plant’s leaves and 

alert you to when it is time to transplant. 

If you plan to plant the seedlings directly into the garden, you first need to provide 

them with a transitional time called “hardening off.” Gradually expose the 

seedlings to the elements day by day. First, place them in a shaded area 

sheltered from direct wind, and bring them indoors at the end of the school 

day. Increase the seedlings’ sun and wind exposure a little at a time, and 

eventually leave them out overnight. Outdoor conditions also increase 

evaporation and transpiration, so make sure the potting mix doesn’t dry 

out! After a week or so, plant them in their final home.

For each transplant, dig the hole a bit bigger than the size of the root ball. If it’s 

available, mix in some compost. Slide the plant out of the pot carefully, holding 

the plant by its root ball or leaves rather than the stem. Place the plant in the hole, 

holding the plant so that it is the same depth in the hole as it was in the pot. Fill in 

with soil and water well.

Plants often look droopy after transplanting, but in a few days they should 

recover. Space out the plants in the garden according to the seed packet 

directions and the design of the garden. Remind students to water the plants 

according to the seed packet directions.

Watering

Your students will quickly learn that close observation of their plants will tell them 

when and how much to water. Water carries the nutrients in the soil to the plant’s 

roots, which then bring the nutrients to the plant. The amount of water each plant 

needs is based on the type of plant, what it’s growing in, and the amount of heat 

and light the plant receives. Mature plants generally need a little less water than 

young seedlings. All plants are happier if they are watered when they need it, 

rather than on a set schedule. Under normal conditions, plants require about 

1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. The soil around a plant should be 

moist, but not too wet. Feeling the soil is one of the best ways to check when it is 

time to water. Simply poke a finger 1 inch into the soil; if it’s dry, it’s time to water. 

Water at the base of the plant rather than on the leaves to decrease the possibility 

of disease, and water in the early morning to avoid condensation on the leaves 

at night. 

A plant will also signal its need for moisture by wilting. If you check the soil around 

a wilted plant and find it’s already wet, the plant might be suffering from a disease 

(e.g., fungal wilt). Let the soil dry a little and monitor the plant for a couple of days. 

If the plant still looks wilted, remove it and the soil around it to prevent the disease 

from spreading.

THINNING

If too many seedlings 

emerge in the same spot, 

consult the seed packet for 

information on proper spacing, 

and remove enough extra 

plants so the seedlings are 

spaced appropriately. 

GERMINATION RATES

Most seed packets also list 

the germination rate. This 

indicates the percentage of seeds 

in the packet that are likely to 

germinate when planted according 

to directions. Even with a packet 

of the freshest seeds, germination 

is unlikely to be 100 percent.

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103

Weeding

What we call weeds are simply wild plants that are growing where we don’t want 

them. Teach students how to identify the plants they want to grow, and the weeds 

they need to remove. It’s best to remove these plants because they will compete with 

your plants for nutrients, space, light, and water. Pull weeds by hand or remove 

them by hoeing around your plants (scrape just beneath the roots of the weeds), 

staying far enough away from the base of your plants to avoid damaging

the roots of your plants. With either approach, make sure the weeds’ roots 

are completely removed.

Fertilizing 

Depending on the condition of your soil and maturity of your plants, you may 

need to provide additional nutrients for healthy plant growth. Seedlings won’t 

need to be fertilized until after three to four leaves have emerged. Then follow 

recommendations on the seed packet. Common signs of plant malnutrition include 

yellowing leaves and poor growth. You can add nutrients by applying compost, 

organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsion), or synthetic fertilizers such as slow-release 

pellets. But be careful: adding too much fertilizer can contribute to poor growth and 

plant diseases, nutrients in the fertilizer that are not used by the plants can pollute 

waterways and groundwater supplies, and applying liquid fertilizer or slow-release 

pellets may be hazardous if the directions on the label are not followed carefully. Only 

adults should handle fertilizers, following manufacturer’s instructions. Label fertilizer 

containers clearly, and secure them in a safe and locked location when not in use.

Mulching

Gardens benefit from the addition of two to three inches of mulch atop the soil. 

Mulch helps slow water loss from evaporation, moderates soil temperatures, 

decreases soil erosion, and decreases the spread of soil-borne diseases. There 

are a number of different materials you can use as mulch, including shredded 

wood, straw, plastic, and newspaper.

• Make sure the mulch you choose does not inhibit movement 

 or become a tripping hazard.

• Demonstrate for students how to place the mulch around plants gently 

 so it does not damage stems.

• Use small tools to transport and spread mulch to avoid injury 

 to students and plants.

• Avoid mulches, such as cocoa shell mulch, that can easily float into 

 paths from rainwater runoff and create potentially dangerous obstructions.

PESTS AND DISEASE 

PROBLEMS

Insect and disease problems 

are easiest to control when caught 

early. Check your plants regularly 

for common plant pests like aphids, 

grubs, and caterpillars. If you find 

them while their numbers are small, 

you can keep their damage in check 

by using a high-pressure spray of 

water from a hose or removing them 

by hand. Watch out for spots on 

leaves, which are signs of fungal 

and bacterial diseases. Remove 

spotted leaves and throw them away 

(never place diseased material in a 

compost pile, because the pathogens 

may remain to pass infection 

on to other plants). 

 Regular, close observation of your 

plants should prevent problems from 

escalating. Never use any pesticides 

or herbicides in the school garden. 

Check with your local Cooperative 

Extension Office for nonchemical 

alternatives, and local health 

department about applicable 

Occupational Health and Safety 

Administration (OSHA) hazard 

communication requirements. 

For more information visit: 

http://www.osha.gov/dsg/

hazcom/index.html.

GARDENING GUIDE

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 103
Harvest Guide

Here is a list of fruits and vegetables with a brief description of how to determine 

when they are ready for harvest and how to harvest them. This is one of the 

most satisfying steps in gardening. When this time comes, demonstrate for the 

students how to safely and correctly harvest each crop and allow the students 

an opportunity to participate. Some produce are best harvested using a knife or 

other sharp tool. This requires close attention from the teacher and one-on-one 

instruction to ensure student safety. If this is not a possibility, students should 

refrain from harvesting such produce. Be sure to use clean harvesting tools. 

Broccoli Head is made of tight green buds. Use a serrated knife to cut heads 

from plant.

Collard Greens Cut individual leaves when they are young and tender and 

approximately 10 inches long using scissors or pruners.

Kale Harvest individual leaves when they are at least 3 inches long; entire plant 

can be harvested by cutting at about 2 inches above the soil using pruners or 

scissors.

Leaf Lettuce Pick/cut individual leaves at any time before the plant flowers using 

scissors or pruners.

Mustard Greens Individual leaves or the entire plant can be harvested when the 

leaves are young and tender using scissors or pruners.

Spinach Harvest individual leaves when they are big enough to eat.

Swiss Chard Harvest when leaves are about 6 inches tall using a scissors 

or pruners to cut leaves at the soil level.

Carrot Harvest when the orange “shoulders” show above the dirt. Gently pull on 

the base of the stem, just above the root to harvest. 

Pumpkin Ripe fruit will have a deep skin color and will make a hollow sound when 

thumped. If the skin resists puncture when pressed with a fingernail it is ready. 

Use pruners or scissors to cut the pumpkin away from the rest of the plant.

Tomato Ready for harvest when the fruit develops its full color. Pick individual 

tomatoes from the plant by hand. 

Winter Squash Ready for harvest when fruit is 5 to 8 inches long. Pick individual 

fruit from plant, leaving the remaining plant to produce more fruit throughout the 

season.

Chickpeas For fresh eating, harvest beans when pods are still green. These can 

be eaten raw or cooked. For dried beans, harvest entire plant after leaves have 

turned brown and withered. Set plants on a flat, warm surface. Once pods have 

split open and the beans dent slightly when bitten, they are dry enough and 

ready to be collected. Dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) can be stored and then 

prepared for consumption.

Corn Ears should be completely filled with kernels, kernels should produce 

a milky white liquid when pierced if ready for harvest. Cut each ear from the 

stalk to harvest.

CELEBRATING THE HARVEST

See Lesson 10 (p. 62) 

for a list of ways to celebrate 

the harvest, as well as students’ 

accomplishments – from a small 

and simple class party to a 

school- and community-wide 

event!

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105

Green Peas Pods are plump and the seeds are almost full size. Use scissors 

or fingers to remove the pods from the plant.

Potato Plants begin to turn yellow and wither. Use a small shovel to gently dig up 

potatoes for harvest.

Beet When the rounded “shoulders” of the beet root appear just above the soil line 

and are about 1 to 2 inches in diameter, it is time to harvest. Gently pull on the base 

of the stem, just above the root to harvest.

Brussels Sprouts Pick/cut sprouts from the stem when they are about 1 to 2 inches 

in diameter.

Cabbage Head should be at least softball-sized and firm. Cut head from stem 

using a serrated knife; discard outer leaves.

Cucumber Cucumbers are ready to harvest when they are large enough to be 

pickled/sliced (approximately 5 to 6 inches). Separate the fruit from the plant taking 

care not to break stems of plant. Harvest regularly so plant will continue to 

produce fruit.

Green Beans Beans are 3 to 4 inches long and crisp. Pluck individual beans 

from plant, taking care not to damage stems remaining on the plant. 

Onions The foliage begins to turn yellow, and the visible bulb is thumb-size for green 

onions, and baseball-size for bulb onion. Gently pull on the base of the stem, just 

above the root to harvest. 

Peppers Pick individual fruit from the plant when it is firm and full in color. 

Radishes Radishes are the size of a quarter; gently pull on the base of the stem, 

just above the root to harvest. 

Turnips Dig turnips up from the ground at any size during the growing season.

Zucchini It is ready for harvest when fruit is 5 to 8 inches long. Pick individual fruit from 

plant, leaving the remaining plant to produce more fruit throughout the season. 

Melons Fruit produces a hollow, dull sound when thumped. Use a pruners to cut 

the fruit away from the rest of the plant. 

Strawberries Fruit is ready when it is completely red; pick fruit by pinching the stem 

with your finger and thumb about a half-inch behind the berry.

Collaboration

Summer Maintenance:

Maintaining a school garden during the summer can be a challenge. 

Here are a few tips to make your garden survive those lonely months:

Use Mulch A thick layer of mulch reduces weed growth, maintains soil moisture, 

and enriches the soil as it decays. You can use inexpensive organic mulch such 

as newspaper topped with straw. 

Install Irrigation Drip-irrigation equipment is available at most home improvement 

stores for a reasonable price and you can set it up to run on inexpensive timers.

HARVEST SAFETY

Harvest is an exciting 

time in the garden! 

Students get to literally 

taste the fruits of their labor. 

Before handling or tasting 

food, make sure students wash 

their hands, and if students 

are ill, they shouldn’t handle 

the produce. Even if the food 

looks clean, or it has rained 

recently, all fruits and vegetables 

should be thoroughly rinsed under 

running water prior to tasting. 

Check with your local health 

department for food preparation 

policies and procedures. Also, find 

out if the food grown in your school 

garden may be used for student 

tasting or serving in school meals. 

For more information, download 

Food Safety Tips for School 

Gardens: http://www.nfsmi.org/

documentlibraryfiles/PDF/

20110822025700.pdf

GARDENING GUIDE

Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov 105
Many Hands Enlist the help of parent volunteers or service organizations such as 

the Future Farmers of America, Master Gardeners, 4-H, Scouts, and church youth 

groups. Create a schedule to ensure that someone checks the garden on a regular 

basis. 

Work With a Summer Camp Many schools offer summer classes or kids’ camps. 

See if they are interested in taking advantage of your outdoor classroom facilities 

during the summer months.

Harvest in the Spring Pick as much of your harvest as you can before you leave 

for the summer. Remove all the plants and then do one of the following:

• Cover the Soil Cover your garden with a thick layer of mulch to discourage 

weeds and decrease water loss. 

• Plant a Cover Crop A cover crop is a short-lived legume (e.g., beans) or grain 

(e.g., buckwheat) that you plant to prevent weeds, reduce soil erosion, and 

boost organic matter. Check with your State’s Cooperative Extension Office 

for cover crop ideas for your area.

Fall Maintenance:

Unless you live in a climate where you can garden outdoors during the winter 

months, you will put your garden “to bed” once your harvest is complete. Remove 

garden plant debris so it won’t harbor pests and diseases that could re-emerge 

the following year. Plant a cover crop to avoid erosion and weed invasion during 

the winter. Contact your local Cooperative Extension Service or area nurseries to 

learn about recommended cover crops and planting times for your area.

Winter Maintenance:

Winter plant maintenance typically refers to indoor plants. Here are some ideas 

for helping the plants tough it out for a few weeks so they’ll be there to enjoy 

upon return from holiday breaks:

• If there will be no heat, move plants away from the windows. Although they 

 will get less light, they are more likely to survive light stress than freezing 

 temperatures. Heating mats may be an option, but they should not be left 

 on for long periods of time.

• If your plants are sensitive to low light levels (i.e., vegetables), place them 

 under a grow light with an automatic timer so the lights will continue to turn 

 on each day.

• Do not fertilize the plants before leaving. Fertilizing the plants will cause them 

 to spend energy on new growth and increase their stress.

• If you usually water your plants once a week, water them thoroughly before 

 you leave and they’ll probably survive for a second week. If your plants require

 more frequent watering, you may want to:

 - Set up a slow-drip watering system.

 - Repot plants into larger containers (although not too large). 

 The additional soil will hold more water for the plants to access.

 - Make a tent around the plants using clear plastic to increase 

 the humidity level and slow water loss due to evaporation.

ONLINE RESOURCES

U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)

• Healthy Meals and School 

 Gardens – Team Nutrition: 

 http://healthymeals.nal.usda.

 gov/resource-library/school-

 and-preschool-gardens/school-

 garden-resources

• The People’s Garden Grant: 

 http://www.nifa.usda.gov/fo/

 peoplesgardengrantprogram.

 cfm

• Food Safety Tips for School 

 Gardens: http://www.nfsmi.

 org/documentlibraryfiles/

 PDF/20110822025700.pdf

• U.S. Plant Hardiness Zone: http://

 www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/

• U.S. National Arboretum Gardening

 Tips: http://www.usna.usda.gov/

 Gardens/gardeningr.html 

• Cooperative Extension System 

 Offices: http://www.nifa.usda.

 gov/Extension/

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106 Dig In! • Grades 5-6 • http://teamnutrition.usda.gov
107

• Allow students to take plants home to care for over the break. Be sure to send 

home an information sheet with care instructions.

• If you’re growing annual plants such as salad vegetables, plan to harvest them 

before the break. Start fresh with a new crop when you return.

Working With Volunteers*

Cultivating people is as important for school gardens as cultivating the soil. A 

successful garden requires much more than simply coordinating and directing 

activities. People must feel that they themselves grow in the garden. Here are 

some ideas for how to build this spirit of ownership:

Community Work Day When the garden has a big task approaching (e.g., preparing

the beds for spring planting/cutting back for fall/building raised beds), invite the 

community to share in the work. Tasks will get done faster and the event turns into 

a great social occasion.

Acknowledgment Recognize community members who contribute to the garden. 

Let them know they were important to its success and the education of the students. 

Local Experts Find out which parents have gardening knowledge/skills and invite 

them to share their expertise with the students. Check to see if your community 

has a Master Gardener program in the area. Master Gardeners are agricultural 

extension volunteer programs with individuals who are dedicated to teaching their 

fellow community members about gardening.

Working With Students Not all garden tasks require leading groups of students or 

being available at a certain time of the school day. When seeking volunteer support, 

provide a list of tasks that involve working with the class during the school day and 

a list of tasks that do not.

Communication Hang a message board in the toolshed/storage facility/greenhouse.

Encourage volunteers to keep track of what garden tasks they performed when 

they were in the garden. Also keep emergency contact information at this location. 

Some additional ways to promote communication are through an email list/phone 

tree, a newsletter, and a Web page.

Continuation Add a new element to the garden each year and allow all those 

involved with the gardens to contribute to its growth and success.

*Note: Ensure that volunteers are covered by the school district insurance 

policy in the event of accident or injury.

Additional Resources

Finding resources you need to begin and maintain a school garden can be 

challenging, but it doesn’t need to be a roadblock. Start a garden committee 

to help drum up support and involve community members. Apply for grants, host 

fundraisers, or start a youth garden business – get together with your students 

and committees to come up with creative ideas!

REFERENCES

DeMarco, L., P. D. Relf, and 

A. McDaniel. 1999. Integrating 

gardening into the elementary 

school curriculum. HortTechnology 

9(2):276-281.

Klemmer, C. D., T. M. Waliczek, 

and J. M. Zajicek. 2005. Growing 

minds: The effect of a school gardening 

program on the science achievement of 

elementary students.

Hort Technology 15(3):448-452.

Lineberger, S. E., and J. M. Zajicek. 1999. 

School gardens: Can a hands-on teaching 

tool affect students’ attitudes and behaviors 

regarding fruits and vegetables? 

Hort Technology 10(3):593-597.

Lohr, V. I., and C. H. Pearson-Mims. 2005. 

Children’s active, and passive interactions 

with plants influence their attitudes and 

actions toward trees and gardening as 

adults. Hort Technology 15(3):472-476.

McAleese, J. D., and L. L. Rankin. 2007. 

Garden-based nutrition education 

affects fruit and vegetable consumption 

in sixth-grade adolescents. Journal 

of the American Dietetic Association

107(4):662-665.

Morris, J.L., and S. Zidenberg-Cherr. 

2002. Garden-based nutrition curriculum 

improves fourth-grade school children’s 

knowledge of nutrition and preferences for 

some vegetables. Journal of the American 

Dietetic Association 102(1):91-93.

Skelly, Sonja M. and Jennifer C. Bradley. 

2000. The important of school gardens 

as perceived by Florida elementary school 

teachers. Hort Technology 10(1):229-231.

Smith, L. L., and C. E. Motsenbocker. 

2005. Impact of hands-on science through 

school gardening in Louisiana public 

elementary schools. 

Hort Technology 15(3):439-443.

Waliczek, T. M. and J. M. Zajicek. 

1999. School gardening: improving 

environmental attitudes of children 

through hands-on learning. Journal 

Environmental Horticulture 

17(4):180-184.

VI

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