U.S. Fire Administration

STOP the use of empty buildings as

targets for arsonists, as crack houses,

as hang outs for gangs, as garbage

dumps, and as temporary shelters

for the homeless.

These procedures are intended to

protect buildings that are temporarily

vacant pending rehabilitation and use.
“HARDENING THE TARGET”

BOARD UP PROCEDURES

Protecting valuable buildings from the

weather and from illegal entry can be

accomplished by improving security,

organizing block watches, improving

lighting, periodic patrols, and by

following these directions.

BOARDING UP

DETERMINING HOW MUCH

PROTECTION IS NEEDED

1. DISCONNECT ALL UTILITIES AT THE

STREET

A. Turn off water at the street and drain

the system to its lowest point. Leave

faucets open and put anti-freeze in all

traps containing water.

B. Have the utility company disconnect

electricity at the street and remove

and cap meters.

C. Shut off LNG supply at the street.

Disconnect and remove LPG and

heating oil tanks.

2. REMOVE ALL FLAMMABLES AND

COMBUSTIBLES FROM INSIDE AND

OUTSIDE THE BUILDING

After all entrances are secured,

the interior worker should exit

the building, using a ladder,

through a window, if such exists,

at least 10 feet above the ground.

Nail or screw a plywood sheet

over the worker's exit. Patrol the

building periodically to check

the security.

A. Remove all upholstered furniture,

combustible materials and trash from

the building, including the basement

and attic.

B. Remove trash and trash containers and

combustible furniture from exterior

stairwells, porches, fire escapes and

outbuildings.

3. SECURE THE BUILDING TO PREVENT

ENTRY

A. Search the entire building to ensure

that it is unoccupied.

B. Remove doors and storm windows

and place in storage.

1. Openings in the basement, first floor doors

and windows and any point of entry accessible

from a porch, fire escape or other potential

climbing point require additional security

measures. These openings should be barricaded

with plywood, 2x4s, bolts and nails.

2. Openings that are at least 10' from ground level

which are not accessible from a porch, fire

escape, roof, or other climbing point can be

secured with nails in each brace, and every

12" around the perimeter. For these openings

the plywood should be fitted so that it rests

snugly against the exterior frame, butting up

to the siding on wood frame buildings and up

to the brickwork on brick buildings. It may be

necessary to remove the staff bead so this

fit can be flush and tight.

NOTE: USE ROUNDED HEAD

1. Cut plywood to fit over the window and door

openings, flush with outside of the molding.

Note: For buildings with metal door and

window frames the alternative is to

cut the plywood and 2x4s to fit the

inside of the door frame buffed up

against the band molding.

2. Cut the 2x4s to fit the horizontal dimension

of the plywood. You will need two 2x4

exterior and two interior braces for each

window and three sets for each door.

For buildings with metal doors and window

frames the 2x4s for the outside will be cut to

the dimensions of the plywood, fitting inside

the door frame, against the band molding. For

the inside the 2x4s will be cut to the outside

dimension of the door or window frame.

3. Pre drill 3/8th inch holes in the plywood and

the braces.

4. The holes will be placed approximately 1/3

of the length of the brace from each outside

edge of the door and window jam.

5. The two window braces will be placed 1/3

of the distance from the top and the bottom

of the window.

6.The three door braces will be placed; one

in the center of the doorway, and one half

the distance from the center to the top and

to the bottom of the doorway.

7. Place the plywood over the exterior opening

and nail to the frame.

For metal frames place the plywood and

braces inside the frame against the band

molding.

8. Place the 2x4 braces over the interior and

exterior of the door or window.

9. Place the large washer over the carriage bolt

and place the bolt through the holes.

10.Place washer and nut inside and tighten

securely. Torque the nut so that it slightly

compresses the interior 2x4.

3/8" CARRIAGE BOLT 12" LONG (COURSE THREAD)

C. Remove shrubbery and vegetation that

could support or spread a fire.

WRENCH NECK WASHER &

1/2" STANDARD FLAT WASHER 3/8" COURSE CONSTRUCTlON GRADE NUT
MATERIALS NEEDED

A . 1/2” plywood, grade CDX and 2” x 4” by 8’

construction grade lumber.

B . 3/8” by 12” carriage bolts (rounded head on

weather side).

C. 3/8” construction grade nuts.

D . Flat washers with an inside diameter large

enough to bypass the wrench neck inside

the carriage bolt head so no lift edge is

available beneath an installed carriage

bolt head.

E. 1/2” diameter flat washers for installation

beneath the nut inside the building.

F . 1-5/8” (6d) galvanized or stainless steel ringshank nails or comparable deck nails.

WINDOWS

Windows raised

and lowered to

center of the frame

View from inside bldg.

Note: Outside view of window is same as view

from outside door except with two 2x4

braces instead of three.

DOORS

Nut & Washer

OPTIONAL

screw an

additional 2x4

to the threshold

butting against

the inside of

the plywood

View from inside bldg.

Bolt’s to inside 2x4

View from outside bldg

2x4’s cut to

fit inside

Plywood

cut to size

and 2x4’s cut

to fit against

inside door

band molding

Alternate Method:

cut plywood

and 2x4s to

cover the outside

of the door frame.
To request arson prevention materials:

National Arson Prevention Clearinghouse

16825 South Seton Avenue,

Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727

1-888-603-3100

Materials available include:

l General Arson Prevention Literature

l Video: Fighting Church Arson

l Church Arson Prevention Literature

l Arson Prevention Brochures

l Juvenile Firesetter Brochures

l Coalition Building Handbook

l Arson Threat Assessment Guides for:

Communities, Churches, Buildings

l Information on Arson Classes and

Courses delivered by the National

Fire Academy