please make a bullt sumary 

[Music] hi everyone my name is James welcome to King's fine woodworking you're watching part of our 16 week woodworking 101 class it's 16 weeks of lessons on all of the basics that you need to become a woodworker for lesson number one we have decided to break that up into eight small subsections because there's going through all the tools that are needed for the woodworker and kind of giving the highlights of each one is a little bit tedious so I just thought I'd break it up at the eight small sections so this is just the next section in that in that lesson number one so I hope you enjoy it thank you so we talked about the router the router is probably the most versatile tool in your woodshop if you're a woodworker a router can put profiles like decorative edges red overs and chamfers on on the edge of your work you can use a router to cut dedos you can use a router to join to the edge of your boards you can even use a router to plain a board flat you can use a router to drill holes routers a very versatile tool so you definitely need a router if you if you get a router depending on your budget there's some options that you can look at the standard router that most people get is is something like this if you are on a pretty limited budget then ideally you would get a plunge router and we'll talk about what that is in a minute if you have a little bit more money then you might get something like this system here this router you want to hand me that bass there so this router is there's a combination the motor comes out this is a fixed base and I will use this for a lot of handheld routing and this is a plunge base and the same router fits both the fixed base and the plunge base let me see which way to put it in here right and so a plunge router is pretty handy because a lot of times you'll need to make a plunge cut to cut down into your material and then move it over and let let it come back up and we'll talk about why that's important as well but if you get a you get a combo kit like this which is pretty reasonable a mid power router maybe one and a half two to two and a quarter two and a half horsepower somewhere in that range and the combo kits great if you have a little more money I might consider getting a trim router a trim router is pretty handy for a lot of things as well but a router of this power could also even be turned upside down and put into a router table and used so we'll go ahead and talk about some of the features of the router and why it's a good tool to have well when we were first putting in a router bit there's a couple things to be aware of when you put them out of it in you don't necessarily want to bottom the router bit all the way out this is the collet and the call it basically tightens down and will hold this shank it'll grip the shank tight but if you put the router bit all the way down the shank is going to stop at this point if you look carefully you can see there's a curve here what from the cutter head to where the shank starts a little bit of a curve and some of the paint also comes down on this so if you push this router bit in all the way and then begin tightening this collet down the collet is going to actually just tighten on this upper portion and not along the whole length of the shank and then you're gonna have a weak bit that could potentially come out so I like to put the router bit in and then lift the router bit up just a little bit maybe an eighth of an inch and then tighten down the collet so if you look once I've got this secured down here I can actually see some of the silver part of the shank before that curve and before the paint and I've tightened it down so now I know that my call it has a really strong grip on that router bit most modern router bits are going to be carbide which means this portion here this is carbide that's been braised on to the cutter head and carbide is extremely sharp very hard very durable it's much more durable than say a bit that was made entirely of high speed steel and this is the preferable bit I don't recommend that you just go out and buy a whole bunch of bits what what I've done over the years that I've been doing woodworking is I buy a bit and only one that a project calls for it so if I'm doing a project and the project happens to need chamfering or something like that now I'll go out and buy a shampooing bit I'll do another project in a few months it requires a certain bit I'll go buy the bit that fits that and as time goes by you'll gradually build up a good collection of bits at that point in time but when you do it's good idea to try to invest in better quality bits this bit is a half inch shank which is what most of my bits are which is the shank diameter which is 1/2 inch if you have something smaller for example like a trim powder trim router will take a 1/4 inch shank bits so the shank on that you can see the collet and here's a little bit smaller so it'll take smaller diameter bits so you just need to be aware of what size call it you have so you'll know what size router bits to buy another thing that most of the router bits that work cutting a profile along the edge of a board will have a bearing a ball bearing at the top and it's important to maintain this ball bearing so it doesn't go bad this is an oiler that you can buy for your ball bearing router bits and you basically will oil them if this just takes it makes a little drop of oil here and you just put the oil in there and then make sure the oil gets inside of the bearing if you periodically do that then you'll dramatically extend the life of your bearings and your router bits will will last virtually forever if you take care of them like that now I want to talk about some a good thing to practice with your router essentially this is the router table this the table of the flat part here needs to stay flat with your wood at all times often times you're cutting along the edge of your wood and you're going to cut off of the edge you want to cut with the router bit all the way to the edge which means your table is going to be sticking off the edge so when you do this you'll need to practice keeping it straight that's a very common error to be routing this way and you reach the edge tend to let it fall if we let it fall like this we're going to destroy our cut so it's a good idea to just take them out or take some scrap wood and practice practice cutting straight off the edge you can pretend that you're just gonna keep going forever right off the edge and just keep it straight another thing that's critical is keeping it flat the whole way this way meaning we don't want to cut like this and we don't want to cut like that I'm exaggerating those a little bit obviously but it's very easy to get into routing and pushing down so hard and trying to concentrate so much that you kind of lose track of the balance point so once you have practices for a while you'll get a good feel of where the flat point is and you'll be able to weigh in a nice maintain a nice flat cut all the way across and you be able to maintain a nice flat cut all the way past an edge let's go make a little practice cut here and see how this goes I want to point out a little safety issue that not a lot of people think about but it can come back to bite yet sometimes we don't know if this is on or off when we're about to use it so I never really could remember if it was the line of the circle that was on or off or I may think it was off and it's not and I'm not looking at this this router has a lot of torque and the bigger the router the more torque it has so if you plug this thing in I gotta let that noise day so if you plug this thing in and the routers turned on you'll have enough torque to jump and possibly fall down hit you hit somebody else or hit the ground destroy your bit something like that so I always make my kids and everybody works in the shop with me I make them keep a hand on the router before they plug the router in just in case it's accidentally turned on okay so now we're going to go ahead and make a sample cut so this here is a chamfer bit and we'll take a look and see what kind of a cut this sham four bit leaves so when we start this cut down over here when we start this cut I want to be away from the wood I don't want to start the cut with the bit already engaged to the wood and we can probably see the rotation of the bit is this way so when the rotation of the bit is this way we're gonna cut from left to right we want the cutter to cut into the wood so I'm going to go ahead and make that cut here [Music] and that's a typical profile from a sham for pet okay so I just want to mention one more time about the rotation of the cut so most routers will have their bit where they rotate clockwise like this and that would be clockwise as if you're looking down from the top of the cutter head it's going clockwise and so what that means is you can see how the cutter head is going to cut into the wood so what we have to do is we have to move the cut or the router from left to right so that cut is digging into the wood as we cut like this what you don't want to do if the rotation is this way is we don't want to start here and cut this way because then the router might catch and then it starts running this way and the router can run away from you this particular cut cutting in this direction is called a climb cut and there are times that will use a climb cut which I will discuss later when we get to that in the course but at this point just know that you always want to cut when the board is in front of you you always want to cut in the rot in front of the board sorry you always want to cut from left to right so you always want to cut so the rotation of the bit cuts into the wood so a lot of times we'll also need to do a flush trim cut so if we take a look at this board here if these are two boards that I had joined and I wanted them to be the exact same thickness or the exact same distance out here that's what this does this flush trim bit will trim this top board to be flush with the bottom board and I'm going to show you how this works this is a very popular bit and we use this a lot in woodworking so I'll show you how those cuts so down here I need to make sure that the bit is low enough in the router so that the bearing is going to ride on my guide surface which is down here and my cutter is going to ride on this surface so it's going to cut the cutter the cutter I'm sorry is going to cut this board down flush with this board because the bearing and this are the same diameter so I'm going to make that cut [Music] [Music] [Applause] okay so I just kind of started here and ended there so you could see the difference this board overhangs quite a bit it did originally and now they're both perfectly flush and that's the benefit of a flush trim router bit tell you how to use the plunge function this is a pretty important function so if you get a plunge router this is what you'll use most plunge routers they have a lever here and you can squeeze this lever and that will allow you to punch this out or down you punch it down to what at a depth whatever depth that you want you let go of the lever and it locks the router at that particular plunge depth now we can control the plunge depth in a number of ways one is with this adjustment rod so we can move this adjustment rod up and down to a point where we like it and then the bottom of this doesn't rod will meet on one of these different surfaces here so at least this I can pick how deep I want it to go if I want the punch to stop there it stops there or the rod meets if I want to go deeper than that I might or take this down a notch and stop there if I want to go deeper than that maybe a couple more notches and you can see it's going to stop all the way down there and that's gonna the further down I go the more that's going to cause this thing to plunge beneath the surface okay so I'm just going to do a quick sample plunge cut and kind of show you how it works here and I've set up pretending that I've got I want to plunge this piece out here maybe this is going to be for a mortise for a rail it could be for a lot of things and I've got my straightedge back there that I'm going to need to keep the router against so when we cut we'll need to keep the router against that point and this will clench down and it's going to make them cut along here basically so and I'm just going to stop it manually at the line over here and not the line over here if you need a more precise cut sometimes you'll put a board here to stop it and a board here to stop it or some sort of a clamp down there to stop it and we'll take a look you'll give this a shot here so yeah [Music] I don't know if you could see there but it was actually very easy to stop right on the lines and all I had to do is make sure I held the edge of the router back against my guide and I made a plunge so if you want a mortise obviously I'll need to be deeper than this but the best way to do it is to take these plunges in steps you want to go down maybe an eighth of an inch at a time until you reach whatever depth that you're trying to achieve and that's sort of the value of a plunge router the ability to make mortises so another bit that I want to talk about is a rabbeting bit a rabbeting bit is a bit that allows you put a rabbet at the edge of a board like down here for example and that's good for bookcase construction cabinet construction things like that and I'll demonstrate what the profile of the rabbeting bit looks like these also have a bearing some of these have adjustable are adjustable where you can put different size bearings on here so you can have rabbits of different depths but I'll show you the way this one's set up right now how it works [Music] and so you see the rabbit here that this makes and if you look at at the edge here you can see when I held the router I started to walk the router backwards instead of going straight off the edge it was a little hard if the camera gets in the way or something but that's something you should practice not to let that happen just try to shoot straight off the edge so your Abbot stays clean if you're going to go around the corner it's no problem but if you just want a straight rabbit then this would be a minor error but that's what the rabbeting bit does it here again - if you need a rabbit that's deeper than this it's best to cut it in a couple of passes and this is a one more very useful router bit to have in your collection mr. recap we'll take a quick look at these router bits again this is a basic set that I think would be important for most woodworkers and beyond this set you might want to wait until you have a project that requires a specific bit but this one is a chamfer bit which we saw that puts a sham fir on the edge profile this is a round over which we didn't actually demonstrate but you can see that it will make a rounded profile on the edge so either you want a sham fir or round over sometimes and of course there are many decorative edge profile bits - this was a flush trim router bit with the bearing up here this allows us to trim two boards or one board so it's perfectly flush with another now this is our straight cutter this is a type of bit that we would use to make a mortise or a dado in the middle of a board and this is our rapid in bit this allows us to put a rabbet at the edge of a board and this is a pretty good collection I got these from Rockler this is a Freud bit you can actually find all of these on Amazon and this is a good collection to start with and that kind of wraps up the router hi everybody I wanted to say thank you very much for watching and I have made a couple of small changes I've decided to take the first video the first lesson of the 16 week course and break it into eight subsections when I got done Phil and I got done editing it it was pretty long it was about an almost an hour and a half and I thought that was too much for anybody to sit through so I just broke that down into eight categories one for each subsection I'm gonna try to post one each day so one this one's coming up now and then I'll do one each day until they're all out and then we'll try to go you know one video per week after that okay so one other thing is that we talked about a lot of tools in this lesson number one and I just wanted you to have access or to know what each of these tools are these are the tools that I use every day in my shop and I have composed the list of all of these tools and links where they can be bought at the best price and I'll keep a list of that or a copy of that in the description I'll also have the list in a downloadable like a PDF format which I'll put up on my website it's pretty ready to download who's interested in having a copy of that once again I want to say thank you for watching I hope you found some valuable information in this I know going through all of the the tools can be a little bit tedious but the course should definitely pick up and get a lot more exciting once we get into that so thanks again and we'll see you next video [Music] you