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Recently, King Frederik and Queen Mary of Denmark unveiled their first official portraits as the reigning monarchs, ushering in a new era following Queen Margrethe II’s abdication in favor of her eldest son.
Among the splendor of these portraits, one breathtaking detail stands out: Queen Mary adorned in the Danish Emerald Parure.
Why do these emerald gems captivate us so? What tales do they hold within their brilliant depths? In this video, we will talk about the illustrious past and profound significance of these emeralds to the Danish Royal Family.
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The Emerald Parure stands as one of the most significant jewels in the possession of the Danish Queen. Crafted in 1840 by C.M. Weishaupt, this exquisite set is noteworthy for its historic and aesthetic value. This parure is steeped in history, which is to be expected since it belongs to the Crown Jewels.
A significant portion of the green gemstones, namely the largest 26 emeralds, have origins dating back to an emerald necklace and cross gifted to Queen Sophie Magdalene in 1723 by her husband, then Crown Prince Christian VI, to commemorate the birth of their first child, Frederik V. This gift, imbued with sentimental value at the celebration of a future king’s birth, was profoundly treasured by Sophie Magdalene.
The remainder of the emeralds once belonged to King Christian VIII’s sister, Princess Charlotte, incorporating a familial legacy into the parure.
In 1840, C.M. Weishaupt expertly assembled the parure, enhancing its splendor with diamonds from the royal collection. The meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the delicate gold frame, where brilliants are set in closed-back silver mounts, and the sizable emeralds are placed in open mounts.
This design choice allows light to pass through from both sides, highlighting the distinctive drop shape of the emeralds in the diadem and the large earring pendants, thus amplifying the emeralds’ dark green splendor. The deep, uniform color of these emeralds enhances the set’s overall beauty, typically worn together as a complete ensemble.
In the documentary “The Queen’s Treasury” (Dronningens Skatkammer), Queen Margrethe II mentioned that emeralds are exceedingly rare due to their vibrant green color and the lack of significant inclusions.
The garniture features neoclassical motifs such as flower vines, bows, and curled frames or cartouches, drawing inspiration from the French crown jewels of that era.
In 1839, Denmark welcomed King Christian VIII to the throne, a direct descendant of Christian VI and Sophie Magdalene. His second wife, Caroline Amalie of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg, became the queen consort.
Close to the 1840 coronation, Queen Caroline Amalie collaborated with the esteemed jeweler C.M. Weishaupt on a significant project to refurbish numerous 18th-century jewels housed within the royal treasury. This renovation effort included the emeralds set to be featured in the coronation celebrations.
One interpretation suggests that the refurbishment of the jewelry set was conceived as an anniversary gift. This theory holds weight, considering the coronation took place in June 1840, shortly following the royal couple’s 25th wedding anniversary.
Queen Caroline Amalie, never depicted in the parure in any portraits, bequeathed it to the Danish Crown upon her death in 1881. This act stipulated that the parure could not leave Denmark and could only be worn by the Queen Regnant or Queen Consort. More on the Danish Crown Jewels will follow.
Following Queen Caroline Amalie’s death, the Emerald Parure was inherited by Queen Louise, known as “The Mother-in-law of Europe.” Despite her disinterest in court life and minimal political influence, she was proactive in arranging her children’s marriages, linking the Danish royal house with the royal families of Russia, Britain, Greece, France, and Sweden.
Queen Louise predominantly wore a Diamond Tiara; however, she was once portrayed in the Tiara from the Emerald Parure.
Subsequently, the Emerald Parure temporarily vanished from the public eye. Neither Queen Lovisa, who had a vast personal collection of jewelry, nor Queen Alexandrine was depicted wearing the Emerald Tiara. Nevertheless, following the outbreak of World War I in 1914, Queen Alexandrine secured the Danish Crown Jewels, including this parure, in Rosenborg Castle, where they remain to this date, still available to the Queen.
It was not until King Frederik IX’s accession to the throne in 1947 that the Emerald Parure was worn publicly again, this time by the glamorous Queen Ingrid. She strongly believed in wearing jewels and thus revived the use of the 19th-century Emerald Parure.
Queen Margrethe began wearing the Emerald Parure shortly after her accession in 1972, notably for the documentary “Margrethe, Queen of Denmark,” during an interview. Her Majesty often paired the emerald set with green dresses matching the stones’ color.
Margrethe also spoke about the sense of responsibility she feels when wearing the Danish Crown Jewels:
“I always feel a great responsibility because they are not personal property like other jewels, and they are exhibited at Rosenberg for the public to see, so we do not take them out for long or often, but people also find it interesting when they are missing because they are actually being used and not just museum pieces.”
In 2023, Queen Margrethe wore the Emerald Parure for the last time at a state banquet honoring King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia of Spain during their state visit to Denmark.
And in April this year, we saw Queen Mary dazzle in the Emerald Parure.
Let’s take another look at the set and see what it includes.
The parure consists of a tiara, necklace, earrings, and a brooch. The brooch can be dismantled into three smaller brooches and can also serve as a pendant for the necklace, showcasing the thought-out design and functionality of this historical parure.
The tiara and accompanying jewels are adorned with a charming ribbon motif. This romantic ribbon design extends to the other items in the parure, including the necklace, large brooch, and a pair of earrings. The diamond pattern is often likened to flames, a comparison I find very fitting and appropriate.
The collection’s creation utilized 67 emeralds and over 2,650 diamonds, making it a truly striking parure. Though some jewelry aficionados may find the parure bulky and somewhat discordant, with its design perceived as outdated. On the other hand, it appears as old as it actually is, which is what makes it noteworthy.
In my opinion, Queen Mary looks stunning in this parure. The tiara suits her dark hair. Mary is the ideal wearer of the tiara; it looks magnificent on her.
Discussing the Danish Crown Jewels, it’s pertinent to highlight four categories of Danish jewelry: Regalia, Crown Jewels, Family Foundation Jewels, and Private Jewels. The Emerald Parure discussed falls within the Crown Jewels category, established in 1740 by Queen Sophie Magdalene.
Initially, the emeralds, remembered as Sophie Magdalene’s, weren’t part of the Crown Jewels.
Sophie Magdalene did not designate these significant stones to the crown in her last will and testament in 1746; in fact, the document made no mention of them. The decision to incorporate the emeralds into the crown jewels, arguably the most famed among them, was made post Sophie Magdalene’s death by Queen Juliane Marie. This action ensured the emeralds remained as a set.
The transition from an absolute to a constitutional monarchy in 1849 necessitated a delineation between state and crown possessions. Dividing the jewels wasn’t straightforward like other assets, given many were funded by both taxpayer money and private royal finances, leading to compromises. Thus, the emerald parure became part of the crown jewels.
Queen Alexandrine had the jewels in 1912, but by 1914, they were transferred to Rosenborg. Eight years later, the museum included them in an exhibition, ensuring the queen could access them as desired.
The Danish Crown Jewels, a living cultural heritage, accessorize Danish queens across generations, mirroring evolving fashion trends yet remaining in use. They stand out globally for being both museum exhibits at Rosenborg Castle and yet still grace the incumbent queen.
State-owned, these jewels are reserved for the queen’s exclusive use and, as a rule, do not leave Denmark, meaning Queen Mary dons them strictly at domestic gala events.
Thank you for joining me on this exploration of Danish history and heritage. I invite you to share your thoughts and insights in the comments below, and don't forget to subscribe for more captivating content. Until next time, take care!
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