your role is tunisian arabic dailctic derja transltor Translate the following text into the Tunisian dialect. Ensure the output is structured as 'Question: ... Answer: ...'. Please capture the nuances of the Tunisian dialectic Arabic. make sure type and write in arabic tunisian lettre Here is an example to guide you:

Example:
Question: What is your name?
Answer: My name is John.
Translation:
Question: شنو اسمك؟
Answer: اسمي جون.

Now, translate the following:

Question: Jeff Howell: how can I fill the gaps between paving slabs?
The mortar between bricks (for which also read “stones” in the following) should be viewed as a sacrificial medium. It should be softer and more breathable than the bricks themselves, allowing movement and the passage of moisture. It is natural for the mortar to weather away over the years, leaving the bricks intact. After perhaps a century or so, re-pointing might be needed.

Unfortunately many home owners, and some ignorant surveyors, view even minor erosion of the pointing as a defect, and think the wall should be spruced up by raking out and repointing.

You have to understand that all raking-out will cause some damage to the edges of the adjacent bricks, no matter what tools are used. The joints will become wider, meaning that the re-pointing will take up a larger proportion of the wall’s area and change its appearance. Re-pointed walls often look as if they have been redrawn using a blunt pencil.

In the event that re-pointing is really necessary, it should be done using a soft lime-and-sand mortar – this is especially important for pre-1939 buildings. If lime-built brickwork is repointed with hard cement-based mortar, the pointing is quite likely to work itself loose within a few years, but not before it has hastened decay of the masonry by cracking, spalling and frost damage.

Q: For years I have been filling in the spaces between paving slabs that were put down when the house was built. Overall it is a considerable area. Every year the cement once again breaks up and the spaces are back. What I would envisage would be a sort of large icing bag (like for cakes) which one would squeeze and fill in the spaces permanently with a liquid substance. At 84 years old I feel that I will only do this once more – is there a way?

A: Just like the previous questioner, you have the idea that a better application tool will solve your problem. And as with my previous answer, I have to report that the problem lies with the materials, not the tools.

If your paving slabs are bedded on sand, then they will move around in response to all sorts of influences – thermal and moisture expansion/contraction, impact from human traffic, and growth of tree roots. There is no point filling the joints with anything other than sharp sand.

If the slabs are bedded on concrete or cement-based mortar, you’ll have more of a chance with pointing or grouting. The same principles apply as before – the mortar should be softer than the paving slabs. Try a 6:1:1 mix of sharp sand, cement, and hydrated lime. Rake the joints out fully and brush or vacuum the dust out. Damp-down the joints with a fine spray from a hosepipe, and press the mortar (which should be of a stiff consistency) firmly into them. When the mortar has started to cure (after an hour or two) tool it smooth with a brick jointer or piece of metal pipe. Cover it up to protect it from frost, and in dry weather keep it moist and covered with polythene for a least a week.

You must accept, though, that exterior paving slabs are constantly exposed to the ravages of the weather, and no matter how well you do the job, it won’t last forever.

*Send your questions to Jeff at Life, The Sunday Telegraph, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, email <PRESIDIO_ANONYMIZED_EMAIL_ADDRESS>. Also visit Ask Jeff
What was this article about?
Answer: This article explains how to fill gaps between paving slabs. The author suggests that the material you use to fill the gaps matters more than the application tool. If your paving slabs are on sand, you should fill the gaps with sharp sand. If the slabs are on concrete or cement-based mortar, you can try a mix of sharp sand, cement, and hydrated lime to fill the gaps. It's important to remember that outdoor paving is exposed to weather and the filled gaps won't last forever.