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 Title: Выпуск 45 – Как я съездил на Кавказ · Intermediate Russian podcast [subs]
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00:00 Приветствие
00:34 Тема выпуска: Путешествие на Кавказ
01:06 Шатаут
02:07 Про видео- или аудиоформат
03:31 Почему Кавказ?
05:08 Про открытые для россиян границы
06:15 Владикавказ
11:20 Стереотипы про Чечню
12:46 Беслан
14:19 Грозный
17:34 Махачкала
21:50 Дербент
22:53 Возвращение в Грозный
23:55 Впечатления от поездки
25:24 Завершение
Description: [Google auto-translated] Hello everyone! Welcome to the new episode of the Russian Progress video podcast!
A podcast for learning Russian in a natural way,
through listening to interesting, engaging content in Russian.
And if you are not studying Russian, then you are welcome too.
Write comments, communicate, because here are mainly foreigners, and if
you want to find yourself a language partner, then write in the comments.
I know that many Russian-speaking people are watching me.
Today, in this episode of the podcast, I would like to tell you about my trip to the Caucasus.
If you are subscribed to the project's Instagram and my Instagram, here,
then you already know that I was in the Caucasus, and I visited North Ossetia, the city of Vladikavkaz,
then I went to Chechnya, to Grozny, and then I went to Dagestan, the city Makhachkala and Derbent.
It was very interesting, very unusual, and today I will share my impressions with you.
Well, by tradition, we begin the release of the podcast with a shutout to sponsors on Patreon,
new sponsors, and this is with us: Carolyn, Ioan, John, Gary,
Mason, Dorian, Eileen, Martha, Katarzyna, Charlie,
Gabrielle, Sergio, Matthew, Margarita, M, Thomas, Diletta, Anna.
By the way, yes, I usually read your names so confidently, but most likely I am wrong
fifty percent (50%) of the time, so sorry if I misread your name,
but I express my deepest gratitude to you for supporting the project. that you are using these materials.
If you also want to subscribe to Patreon, then the link will be in the description and here.
There I post transcriptions for each issue, this will also obviously
include a transcription with translations of complex words.
In general, this episode is likely to be very long, because there are so many impressions, and ...
Therefore, you can either watch this video, this podcast in video format,
or you can listen to it on the go. The good thing about the video is that you see my facial expressions,
gestures, you somehow ... Visually, it is easier for you to perceive the language.
Plus I am inserting some videos from my same trip.
And the good thing about audio is that you can do it on the go, respectively, you can go somewhere,
drive, do something, do cleaning, wash dishes, play sports and so on, that is ...
At any time, when you are physically busy but not mentally.
So yes, use any method of learning Russian that suits you,
well, and be sure to use the text that will allow you to translate all unfamiliar words,
emphasize some phonetic aspects, and so on, yes, that is,
on Patreon you can find a pdf file, you you can print it and in such a very ...
Intensive format, work on the text, so yes, well ...
And today I will tell you about my trip to the Caucasus,
and in general, why I decided to go there - because at that time I was in Krasnodar,
and this, by the way, is also considered the Caucasus, but ...
The atmosphere there is - well, like in any other, probably, Russian city,
because the population there is predominantly Russian, as in the Stavropol Territory, as in Krasnodar.
Mostly Russians live there, so you don't feel that you are right in the Caucasus.
Well, I decided to go exactly where other peoples already live, that is, Ossetians, Chechens and Dagestanis ... Well, I
mean, there are a lot of nationalities in Dagestan, we will talk about this.
Well, in general, where there is already a different culture, different traditions. I wanted to see all this.
And, of course, I wanted to see the cities, because some of you may already know that I am interested in urban studies.
And despite the fact that in the Caucasus, of course, you must first of all look at nature, and especially in summer,
I went to see the cities, because well ... Still, yes, now is not the right time
to watch nature, and .. And I'm more interested in just cities, here.
But, perhaps, in the summer I will return and see more nature.
So, I was in Krasnodar for a month, in February, and I thought:
"So, where would I go so that it would be warm and something new?"
Well, I thought that I was in Sochi, I was in the Crimea, and the Caucasus remains with us.
In order not to go abroad, I've decided to go to the Caucasus.
Because now, in my opinion, thirty (30) countries are already open for Russia, that is, you can
go to Georgia, and to Armenia, and to Azerbaijan, and to some countries ...
In the Balkans there is Serbia, Montenegro ... Well, there Latin America and so on, in general, is not the point.
Well, that's it, I took a ticket, waited for this moment, that is, a week before the trip, I took a ticket
to Vladikavkaz, this is the capital of the North Ossetia region, also called Alania.
And so, I decided to see what kind of city it was, took the night train,
that is, I was there for nine hours, in my opinion, I was traveling by train, by night.
And this is very convenient. I love this feeling when you lie down in a compartment,
and the train just makes you sick, you fall asleep and wake up in a new city.
Just awesome feeling! The ticket cost, in my opinion, two and a half thousand rubles.
Um, here I’m converting to dollars because I’m not good at math.
So, in fact, I arrived in Vladikavkaz, well, the first thing I saw was I saw ...
Something new and unusual, because immediately when you leave the station,
you see ... You have a view of the mountains ...
And in general, why did I decide to go to Vladikavkaz, because
I just saw these incredibly beautiful pictures from Vladikavkaz,
where you walk along the main street, and the mountains just hang over you like this.
It is very beautiful, and so I decided to see it all with my own eyes.
Well, then, I arrived, went for a walk around the city, ended up in some kind of bazaar.
In general, it was all so colorful, unusual. On the street, I mainly saw Caucasians,
that is, there were quite a few Russians. Well, that's all, in fact, I reached my place of residence.
I booked, as usual, an apartment on airbnb, I always use airbnb,
because it's convenient - you just choose a place there, come, they give you the keys, and that's it.
In my case, in Vladikavkaz, this was not entirely the case, because they not only handed
me the keys, they told me for about an hour what to see, where to go,
what to try, where to eat, and so on. It was all very interesting.
They told the story of this place, about the local people and so on,
in general, it was cool, it was very nice, the
people are very hospitable, and this is my first impression.
Well, in general, Vladikavkaz itself is a rather calm city, as it seemed to me.
The first day, when I walked there, there was practically no one on the streets,
that is, it was rather empty. I don’t know, perhaps this is due to the fact that
most of the time I spent well in my life in Novosibirsk, I
also lived in St. Petersburg, where there are always a lot of people, and it’s unusual for me to see ... The absence of crowds of people.
Let me remind you that now in Russia you can walk around the city, you can move freely.
The only thing is that you need to wear a mask indoors, you can walk outside without a mask.
But it’s simple, you see, the population is not very large in Vladikavkaz, well, there are three hundred thousand (300k),
plus it is decreasing, and because of this, well ... The city seemed rather empty to me.
Also, I noticed that Vladikavkaz is a very historical city,
despite the fact that it is in such a rather dilapidated state, for example.
That is, there, well, these buildings ... There are many, many abandoned buildings.
Some buildings are in need of renovation.
But still there is a lot of history left, a lot of historical buildings, pre-revolutionary.
Therefore, it is very pleasant to walk along these streets here,
and, of course, this view of the mountains is something incredible, something that must be seen.
Well, such a feature of this region is that there ...
The local population, that is, the Ossetians, are Orthodox.
Well, and, accordingly, there is an Ossetian Orthodox Church. I didn't go there because
I thought it was an ordinary Orthodox church, and there are just thousands of them in Russia,
I'm like, "Well, okay, I won't go there." But it turned out to be precisely the Ossetian Orthodox Church. and ...
That is, yes, it is interesting - that there is Orthodoxy, although it is the Caucasus, that is, not everyone even knows about it.
That is, yes, it is interesting - that there is Orthodoxy, although it is the Caucasus, that is, not everyone even knows about it.
The local population speaks mainly Russian. Well, again, I did not say that ...
In the Caucasus, in general, in general, everything is in Russian, that is, all the inscriptions, all the signs are all in Russian.
And the impression I had was that when you come especially to Chechnya or Dagestan,
you seem to find yourself in another country. But at the same time, all the services,
all the familiar to you are some of these pointers, which I spoke about, and so on, that is ... The
infrastructure is all Russian, but the culture is different. And this is super interesting!
So, this is also such an impression. I didn't go anywhere to see nature,
because it was expensive ... Well, if I went alone, well, I didn't take a car ...
Well, because I ... I have a license, but I don't drive for many years,
or rather, I never drove. In short, I just walked around the city and looked at it.
The first day was cloudy, then the sun appeared a little.
Well, in general, I liked the city, I liked it, and I recommend going there.
So, it seems that I have not forgotten anything about Vladikavkaz.
Well, that's all, in general, I stayed there for three days, then went to Grozny.
Well, when I went to Grozny, already this tension was growing a little, because
we have a lot about Chechnya especially ... Well, again, these stereotypes
are super dangerous there, and so on because for the war, which was
first the first Chechen war, the second Chechen war, which ended there in 2000.
Well, so, and I did not know what the attitude to the Russians was, and in general ... I didn’t know what to expect at all.
But I decided to get out of my comfort zone, let's say, take a look, generally take a walk there.
Well, in general, I, of course, destroyed all these stereotypes of mine.
I arrived in Grozny in about three hours. In my opinion, I was driving for three hours ... What was driving?
By bus or minibus? I don't remember what I was driving, but, in short, I got there pretty quickly.
When I passed Ingushetia, that is, we have North Ossetia, then Ingushetia, and then we have Chechnya.
So, when you come to Ingushetia, there are already policemen standing there just with machine guns, here.
And you're that type - damn it, nifiga yourself, everything is very serious here!
Well, there you go. And yes, by the way, I also forgot to tell you about Beslan. I also drove to Beslan,
this is a city not far from Vladikavkaz, where in the year two thousand and four (2004) a terrorist attack took place,
in which they suffered, or rather, did not suffer, but three hundred thirty-three were killed (333),
according to some sources three hundred thirty-four (334) people, mostly children.
A terrorist attack in which a school was seized and people were kept there for three days, and ...
This school building, it was mothballed, it was left in the state in which it was,
that is, with traces of bullets, with ... Everything destroyed ... And, of course, this is a very creepy place like that.
I also walked inside the school itself, that is, there was a gymnasium that is open,
and I also walked through this school there, and, of course, it’s a nightmare in general, what is possible and what people do.
And then I went to ... To the so-called city of angels, this ...
This is a cemetery where these people are buried, these children who ... Who suffered, who ...
got into this terrible terrorist attack. From the first to the third September, two thousand and four (2004).
Well, then - then I went to Grozny, the impressions were ...
Well, firstly, this is a very colorful place, this is a very unusual place, because
there are everywhere portraits of Vladimir Putin, Ramzan Kadyrov and Akhmat Kadyrov.
Ramzan Kadyrov is the current head of the Chechen Republic, and Akhmat Kadyrov is his father,
who also headed the Chechen Republic before ... Before the terrorist attack, which ... During which he died.
Here, um ...
Well, actually, yes, there are these portraits everywhere.
And there is even Prospect Putin, the main street is Prospect Putin.
Well, in general, the city of Grozny itself, obviously, looks very modern, because ...
During the Chechen wars, it was practically wiped off the face of the earth, it was destroyed.
And so, it was only rebuilt at the beginning of the 2000s, and now it is quite a comfortable, neat city.
Well, mostly there is the private sector, but there are several high-rises of these,
and there is the main mosque, well, a few buildings that still remain, and so on.
In general, the city is small, three hundred thousand (300k) population, but in principle, comfortable.
There are all sorts of establishments, there is a funny KFC aka "Kripsy" they have a local, their own,
because, perhaps, there are some sanctions, I don't know. But, by the way, all services are working -
ApplePay, cards, Sberbank, of course, that is, everything works, airbnb works, Booking works.
So in this regard, there are no restrictions at all, well, in general, there are no restrictions.
That is, I walked freely there, moved around, no sidelong glances, no tension.
In short, everything was okay! I walked, examined this one here ... I went to this mosque, well, everything is modern there.
I also went to an Orthodox church, and everywhere, in short, people with automatic weapons go there
to control the situation. Well, in short, the place is interesting.
The apartment was in the very center with a beautiful view.
And also in Chechnya, drinking alcohol is prohibited, that is, alcohol is not sold anywhere,
not in grocery stores ... As one taxi driver said there, you can take it somewhere
in a large grocery store, from eight to ten, that is, only in the morning.
But at the same time, only Russians can take, that is, if you are a Chechen, the
police can confiscate from you , take alcohol and write you a fine. In short, everything is strict there.
Well, of course, there is already Islam, there are already Muslims, so no pork is sold there either.
I stayed there for two days, then I went ... I was waiting for my sister, my sister joined me,
but I didn't want, in general, to stay in Grozny for a long time, because ...
Well, I had already bypassed everything there and, in principle, there , apart from the private sector, there was nothing left for me to explore.
So I decided to go to Makhachkala for a day. This is Dagestan,
and this is a slightly different order. There is already well, and some kind of garbage, and ...
People are somehow more, I don't know, relaxed and ...
Because in Chechnya, somehow, well, it's still pretty strict, even though there are people ...
Well, I didn’t have any problems, but this control is felt there, and ...
In Dagestan, it’s somehow more and more relaxed. Well, now, I drove for three hours and took a minibus.
The minibus cost only two hundred and fifty (250) rubles. I arrived in Dagestan, and when I was going to Makhachkala,
I thought that well, there, probably, there will be complete chaos now, they will drive, in short ...
Dagestanis are driving Priors and just shoot in the air. But no, in fact, everything was super cute, calm, pleasant.
I arrived in Makhachkala, settled in. I also found an apartment on airbnb, without any problems at all.
Well, I went for a walk around the city. The city is very pleasant, cozy, pretty.
It is clear that there is a lot of unauthorized construction, a lot of all sorts of outbuildings, there are balconies and so on.
But in general, the city - it has more history than Grozny, because it has not suffered so much, and ...
There is a lot of Soviet architecture, a lot of something pre-revolutionary.
The layout itself is pleasant, that is, it is such a compact city.
Well, when I arrived, I just got to ... to prayer.
I honestly don’t remember what it’s called, when here ... This is the main prayer, in general, I’ll google and write.
But, in general, the point is that it was very atmospheric, unusual and generally a thrill
that in Russia we can find Orthodox, Muslim, and Buddhist.
That is, there are many different religions in Russia, many different cultures, and this is very interesting to research. And you don't even need to travel abroad for this.
So, everywhere the Russian flag hangs along with the local flag, and you understand that this is Russia, this is your country.
And these people are your fellow citizens, these are your fellow citizens, and this is super interesting!
So I walked around Makhachkala, Makhachkala is a very pleasant city, very modern in many respects.
Makhachkala is already a more lively city, that is, there are more people, more population.
The taxi driver there said that there is about a million population, well ... In fact, about that.
The taxi driver there said that there is about a million population, well ... In fact, about that.
And I liked the main avenue, I liked the embankment, I liked it ...
I liked the local institution, well, in general, very nice and lovely people.
Everywhere, by the way, everyone speaks Russian, that is, if in Chechnya you hear mainly the Chechen language, since
most of their population there are Chechens, and they speak Chechen among themselves.
Well, there are quite a few Russians there. But already in Dagestan, as there
are a lot of different nationalities, nationalities, languages ​​are very different.
By the way, there are fourteen (14) official languages ​​in Dagestan, and ... The
taxi driver just told me that they do not always understand each other,
that is, if everyone speaks their own language, they will not understand.
Therefore, they all use Russian as such a common language. Everyone speaks Russian to each other.
Well, and there you already feel more at home, because at least you hear Russian speech.
And in Dagestan ... Oh, that is, in Chechnya it was so colorful, unusual that
sometimes you do not understand at all what people say, as if you are really abroad.
Although, of course, everyone knows Russian. You are always when you address people ... You will always be answered in Russian.
Here ... Pum pum pum pum pum ...
Well, so, in general, I was in Makhachkala, walked there, spent the night, spent the night.
Well, I went back to Grozny to meet my sister, because she flew to Grozny.
My sister arrived, my sister and I walked, explored Grozny.
В принципе мы там за полдня его... Да даже за несколько часов обошли.
Ну и всё, там уже ждали, когда мы поедем в новый город, а поехать мы собирались в Дербент.
И Дербент — это уже самый южный город. Я, кстати, эту информацию всю
подтянул немножечко на канале Russian from Russia. Если вы не подписаны, то заходите, подписывайтесь.
Там вот недавно было опубликовано видео про Дагестан, и вот там я посмотрел, в общем...
Можно подчерпнуть некоторую информацию, что, например, это самый южный город в России,
это самый старый город России, ну, если не учитывать Керчь.
Дербент — очень старый город, и там есть старая, вот эта историческая крепость.
Тоже он находится на Каспийском море. Прекрасные, замечательные виды просто, как на Фарерах.
Посмотрели мы эту крепость. С погодой, кстати, было не очень, какой-то снег там уже шёл, но в целом...
Мы были тепло одеты, так что... И вообще, мы из Сибири с сестрой, поэтому нам морозы нипочём.
К сожалению, много времени у нас не было там в Дербенте, я по самому... По самому городу особо не погулял.
То есть мы успели посмотреть эту крепость, ну и обратно мы на Блаблакаре поехали обратно в Грозный.
Сразу не удалось, к сожалению, поехать именно в Грозный, нам пришлось сначала делать пересадку, потому что
там в Блаблакаре почему-то нас... Ну, отменили.
Вот, так что... Так что вот. Мы съездили...
Блять, уже заебался говорить.
Короче, посмотрели Дербент, поехали обратно на Блаблакаре, пришлось сделать пересадку.
Мы сначала доехали до Махачкалы, и потом какими-то там... Успехами кое-как мы договорились,
что мы доедем дальше до Грозного. Там чувак уже просто выехал за город,
мы там позвонили, типа: "Чувак, чувак, не уезжай, всё, мы сейчас подъедем!" Поехали на такси, потом на такси его ещё долго искали.
В общем, в итоге сели и ввосьмером просто поехали дальше до Грозного.
Доехали до Грозного, заселились, переночевали и на следующий день уже полетели — я в Новосибирск, сестра в Москву.
Какие впечатления? Вообще, я разрушил, конечно, вот эти стереотипы свои о том, что это опасное место,
что люди там опасные и так далее. Никаких проблем за всё время путешествия у меня не было.
Люди были отзывчивые, такси, кстати, работало как часы. Опять же, вот эти все сервисы,
которые работают в России, в основной России, также абсолютно, с таким же успехом
они есть и в Осетии, и в Чечне, и в Дагестане, поэтому путешествовать там очень удобно.
Есть и удобный вот этот сайт Tutu, который... На котором я покупаю билеты на автобусы и поезда. Есть Дубльгис, карты, которые я использую.
И пожалуйста, можно ездить, перемещаться. Только надевай маску.
Там ещё, кстати, рядом с Дербентом, вообще буквально в пешей доступности
находится Азербайджан, новое государство, но, так как мне нужно было вернуться в Грозный,
чтобы проводить сестру, я не заехал в Азербайджан, хотя можно было бы, наверное.
Там достаточно сдать тест на коронавирус, и всё, и милости просим, но заеду в другой раз.
В принципе мне этих впечатлений хватило, поездка очень крутая, рекомендую этот маршрут.
Но и обязательно, когда поедете на Кавказ, заезжаете в горы, смотрите природу, смотрите всякие озёра.
И разрушайте стереотипы! На этом на сегодня всё. Если вам понравился выпуск, ставьте лайк.
Заходите на Патреон. Ещё раз благодарю всех спонсоров, которые там уже подписаны.
Сейчас, на настоящий момент там двести десять (210) человек, это очень круто!
В дополнительном выпуске подкаста я расскажу вам... О чём я вам расскажу?
О чём-то я вам расскажу, самые сложные слова разберу из этого выпуска.
И мы с вами услышимся в следующих выпусках подкаста.
Bye! Подписывайтесь на Инстаграм, потому что уже завтра я еду в новое путешествие. Пум!