10 ways to embrace cosy comfort food this month
By Sue Quinn Mid-winter days may be cold and the nights long but there’s comfort to be found in the kitchen. In Britain, we excel at comfort food, those consoling dishes that fill our bellies and bring pleasure. At this time of year what could be more welcome? Here’s how you can make the most of winter-warming food this month. 1. Start your day with a soothing breakfast Stir up warm feelings on cold dark mornings with porridge. It’s cheap, quick (even faster in the microwave than on the hob) and versatile. Go minimalist with milk and sugar or add berries or grated fruit. If you’re taking part in Veganuary, there are also luscious ways to enjoy a dairy-free bowlful. Nothing screams comfort food louder than crumpets: the honeycomb of holes soaks up toppings like butter, golden syrup or honey beautifully. Fancy something different? Soak crumpets in beaten eggs and fry, then serve with bacon, smoked salmon or on their own. 3. Put that air fryer to good use In the week of Black Friday 2022, UK searches for air fryers were at an all-time high. If you are one of the many who now owns one make sure it doesn’t gather dust in a kitchen cupboard and put it to good use in January with any number of recipes. Chips are the air fryer's specialist subject, and topping them with cheese and gravy or sticky tofu, sriracha and mayo, turns them into a cosy pub-style dinner, without the pub. Bangers and mash rank high on the comfort food scale but with an air fryer you could ring in some changes. Jenny Tschiesche, registered nutritionist and author of the Air-Fryer Cookbook, suggests a honey and mustard sausage and veg tray "bake". Air frying root vegetables and red onion, drizzled with oil, honey and wholegrain mustard, and topped with cocktail or chipolata sausages, requires half the cooking time of the oven. 4. Get creative with cheese Leftover cheese from Christmas? You’re halfway to a comforting meal. “To start with, you don't need to cook cheese,” says Jenny Linford, food writer and presenter of A Slice of Cheese podcast. “All the work creating flavour and texture has already been done by the cheesemaker. Cheese melts beautifully, which makes it especially comforting, and the smooth richness is always cheering.” It’s easy to make a speedy pasta sauce with whatever cheese you have stir a generous handful of grated cheese (use different kinds for extra flavour) into a pan of hot cream until melted. Pour over pasta or cooked vegetables. Cheese toasties make perfect snacks in January – on their own or with other fillings (try baked beans!). One of Linford’s favourites is chilli cheese on toast. “Mix grated cheddar with finely chopped green chilli and onion, chilli powder and cumin seeds,” she suggests. “Layer this on a slice of toast and grill until melted. It’s guaranteed to make the world seem a better place!” 5. Embrace hot bowls of soup on rainy days If you have vegetables or cans of tomatoes or beans – plus stock cubes or powder – you’ve got the makings of a comforting soup. Fry up finely chopped onion, celery, carrot and garlic until soft, and then add chunks of veg, tinned tomatoes or drained beans. Cover with stock and simmer until cooked through. Try adding a piece of Parmesan rind to the pot. “As it simmers, it gives a great umami (savoury) boost,” Linford says. Even the simplest soup can feel deluxe with a creative toppings: cubes of fried bread until crisp in olive oil, a swirl of yoghurt or sour cream, toasted nuts and seeds, grated cheese or a poached egg. Cook Seema Pankhania's guide to making any kind of soup has plenty of inspiration for flavour combinations and toppings. 6. Make pasta the order of the day Studies show that pasta is one of the foods we most often turn to during stressful times. Rich in starch, pasta fills you up and is easy to prepare. Plus, if you opt for wholemeal pasta, it provides plenty of fibre, vitamins and minerals. Food writer Rachel Roddy, author of An A to Z of Pasta, says pasta mista e patate – a soup-like combination of mixed pasta and potatoes – ranks among the most comforting of all. Roddy explains that the dish delivers the same level of comfort as pulling on a pair of woolly socks - something that on a cold, January day is an appealing thought. There’s also comfort in pasta’s versatility, especially when cooking on a budget. It marries with virtually any ingredient, from simple breadcrumbs fried in olive oil, tinned sardines, roast vegetables through to more time consuming ragù sauces. 7. A time for leftovers Leftovers can be turned into delicious comfort food. In fact, it’s worth cooking extra portions of vegetables just to turn them into soothing future meals. Surplus roast veg after your Sunday roast? Simply chop, add grated cheese (and roast meat if there’s some left) and wrap in puff or shortcrust pastry. Brush with milk or beaten egg and bake until golden. And don’t throw out leftover pasta. Smuggle it into a frittata or a pasta bake. 8. Seasonal produce that’s winter warming “I think eating with the seasons gives much pleasure,” says food writer Charlotte Pike. “Not only are ingredients at their peak in terms of flavour, by choosing locally-sourced seasonal ingredients, they will be fresher as they have not travelled so far and will be cheaper.” Mashed potato is a favourite food for many of us in winter, but there are other options. “I made a delicious, mashed vegetable dish to go with a roast recently,” Pike says. “I used equal quantities of mashed carrot and swede, with a little butter and lots of black pepper. It was so delicious and could not be much cheaper to make.” Pike says winter gratins – cheesy vegetable bakes – are also irresistible in cold weather. “Try leek or endive, or even kale,” she says, adding you can use your favourite vegetables, or whatever needs using up. Just make a basic white cheese sauce, stir through cooked veg, top with breadcrumbs and extra cheese and bake until golden and bubbly. Brussels sprouts make a terrific gratin. Or try Mary Berry’s hearty smoked haddock and cauliflower version. How to make white sauce 9. Comfort food that’s nutritious Many of us resolve to improve our diets in January, which is a good idea, says Tschiesche: “Nutrition is one of the most important factors when it comes to helping ourselves feel better, brighter, and healthier at this time of year.” And comfort food can be nutritious too. Consuming foods rich in Vitamin D – salmon, mackerel, sardines and egg yolks – is key, says Tschiesche. Try making fish pie, creamy risotto with flaked fish or simple sardines on toast. Vitamin C is also important now to support the immune system. “At this time of year, the best sources are green vegetables such as Brussels sprouts and broccoli,” Tschiesche says. Simply add a handful into your cooking pot when making hearty soups and stews. 10. Treat yourself January's dark days can feel devoid of fun, so take a moment to treat yourself to pure enjoyment. Sit on the sofa, with a cup of tea in hand, eating a homemade chocolate chip cookie. If you still have cookie dough left in the freezer from the festive period, now is the time to bake it. The secret to everlasting happiness? Edd Kimber thinks so... Pudding can deliver comfort on every level. Pears and apples are in season now and make the perfect base for a classic crumble. Try adding frozen berries in with apples; they add extra nutrients and flavour and turn the fruit a magisterial purple. Always serve with custard. But comfort food doesn’t have to be beige and carb-heavy. Citrus fruit and forced rhubarb – both in season and at their best right now – deliver cheer on cold and gloomy days with colour. “I love making zingy fruit salads with the amazing citrus fruit in season, such as segmented oranges or grapefruit with pomegranate seeds and chopped fresh mint,” says Pike. Citrus – another important source of Vitamin C at this time of year – also makes wonderful warm puddings. The mouth-puckering tang of Barbie-pink forced rhubarb lends itself to an array of tempting puddings, from tarts and crumbles to possets and fools. And if that fails to make you feel cosy, there's always rhubarb gin for the end of dry January. Originally published December 2022