Have we been getting potatoes all wrong?
The humble potato. It may be homely, but it is also a showstopping, versatile ingredient and it shouldn’t be bad-mouthed or underestimated any longer. By Poppy O'Toole, Self-titled Potato Queen We’ve heard the diet fads telling us to cut them out. We’ve been told time, and time again, that carbs equal sins. That isn’t the whole story (or even a true story). They can be healthy, skins-and-all roasted new potatoes; they can be indulgent like dauphinoise potatoes. They can make a budget dinner of simple baked potatoes. They can be fancied up to Michelin-starred standards or made into a bag of crisps. The truth is… the potato can be anything you want it to be, and hopefully this will help you appreciate the potato like I do. But let me take you through the countless ways to love your potatoes, and why they are the best ingredient on the planet. How much do I love thee? Let me count the varieties... The first tip I can give you to fully maximise the potato’s potential is to understand its different varieties. We’ve all been there at the supermarket, grabbing the nearest bag of spuds and using it for whatever you fancy once you get home. But once you know which potato is best for the job, you’ll notice your potato game will be upped for ever. First, everyone’s favourite – the Maris Piper. I love a Maris Piper. My rule of thumb: if in doubt, get your Maris Pipers out. I always imagined there was a beautiful medieval potato mistress called Maris Piper that was so curvaceous and carbilicious that the kingdom named their best crop after her. Unfortunately, it was just named after Maris Lane, where the first of the variety was grown. But back to its qualities – it’s that fluffiness. Like a cloud of carbs, the airy, delicious nature of the Maris Piper makes it the best option for mashed potatoes that aren’t gloopy. I also find it a strong choice for roast potatoes too – making a slightly less robust roastie but one whose fluff should result in the ultimate crunch if cooked perfectly. Roast potatoes The more popular choice for “all-rounder” is the King Edward. It’s a little less starchy than the Maris Piper, so it makes a great potato for homemade chips as it keeps its shape slightly more so than the Maris. It does the job for jacket potatoes, mash and roast potatoes, too. You should test against a Maris and find out which is better suited to you. Some love a firmer roastie – so live your best life! A slightly lesser-known potato against the heavy-weights is the Desiree potato. These red skin potatoes are things of beauty. They are waxier than other potatoes, which means they are firmer and lower in starch, so I personally wouldn’t use them for mash. But they do suit one of my favourite potato recipes of all time… crispy cubes. These crispy cubes of potatoes make the easiest, yet most delicious, side dish. And thanks to the Desiree’s robust texture, the crunch, shape and the bite of these crispy cubes are taken to the next level. They also make banging potato wedges! Now for the little guys, and in the world of potatoes, size doesn’t matter. Jersey Royals make for a gorgeous mini roast potato alternative on a Sunday if you fancy a change. For me, the nuttier, delicate flavour of a Jersey Royal needs to be appreciated by just boiled and serving with butter… an absolute treat! And finally - the new potato. The freshness of these smaller potatoes make for the perfect choice in a summer potato salad. They’re slightly sweeter and creamier, but served best when boiled, cooled down, mixed in mayo or dressing and served up on a summer’s day. Social media has seen the rise of the smashed potato – and Jersey Royals or new potatoes would be perfect to pull this one off. You part-boil your little spuds, drain and pop them on to an oiled tray and then use the bottom of a glass or mug to smash them down a bit. They then roast in the oven for the ultimate crispy treat. Low-cost dinner ideas One of the best things about the potato is how cheap it is, yet how substantial and filling it can be. A single ingredient that can be a whole dinner just with a bit of cheese or a tin of beans on top. I use potatoes almost every day as a cheap option for mains and easy sides that don’t break the bank. For the ultimate budget dinner, you need to know how to cook jacket potatoes. I go with a little bit of oil on the outside and straight into the middle shelf of a preheated oven at 180C/160C Fan for an hour so you can get on with your evening tasks. Try cooking a baked potato for about 45 minutes, then get it out of the oven, cut a criss-cross X-shape, slather in cream cheese, chopped parsley and roasted garlic, and finish it off in the oven. One of my most popular recipes online, it’s heaven on earth and a fun way to take your baked potato game to the next level. Potatoes can be the basis of many soups adding silkiness and body with their starchiness. Nothing beats the simplicity of a leek and potato soup, but they will also sing backup in a blended root veg or pumpkin soup and thicken up a chunky minestrone. I love the ease of being able to batch-cook a huge pot of creamy potato soup (with the smells running through the house!) and freezing it for when I need a good potato hug over the winter months. How to cook a jacket potato to crisp and fluffy perfection I’ve spoken about my love of crispy cubed roast potatoes, and it’s an easy winner to go with a bit of chicken, steak or fish. I’ve also recently got to grips with an air-fryer, and can say being able to just slice up some spuds, throw them in and get back gorgeous crispy chips has changed my life. But a really hot oven will also make cracking oven chips. I love brunch. Maybe it’s because I wasn’t often lying in on the weekend while working 70-hour weeks in professional kitchens. Lockdown made me appreciate Saturday brekkie at 11am. The potato offers a cheaper alternative to smashed avocado and bagels when you nail making hash browns at home. I load mine up with a poached egg, a bit of yoghurt, mango chutney, and honestly you’ll feel like you’re in a bougee café for a fraction of the price. Potatoes around the world If there’s one thing that truly shows off the wonder of the potato, it’s the fact that every country, if not every region of a country, has their own variant of how they best like their potatoes. I’m lucky to have recreated a few myself, whether it’s the decadently cheesy aligot from northern France, which is literally like a stringy cheesy potato heaven served at après ski. Or the kumpir from Turkey – that sees a jacket potato loaded with gherkins, meats and all the sauces you can ever imagine. Or even a Spanish tortilla which, when done simply and classically, shows that with just a potato and an egg, you can create a full hearty meal. The global love of potato proves it is the ultimate ingredient in the kitchen and we shouldn’t be ashamed to shout about it here in Britain. One of our national dishes is the roast dinner – where would that be without the [roast potatoes](? Who’s ordering fish and chips without chips? How good would bangers and mash be without mash? And even the good ol’ chicken tikka masala is taken to the next level with some Bombay potatoes or saag aloo on the side! After the year we’ve had, it’s important to remember the love that food brings, and there’s no ingredient out there that gives a hug quite as good as a potato. It’s time to get the family together and cook some spuds (or if you’re greedy like me, just cook them for yourself!). Enjoy yourself. Enjoy your food. And enjoy the potato.