place or something sometimes it comes off easily other times not so easily anyway it's helpful to remove as much of it as you can because it will make it easier to desolder these capacitors this piece in between the two was particularly stubborn so i just left it there okay before we go any further we need to remove this plastic piece here it's actually really simple to remove just use a screwdriver and push the little pin inside of these down and voila it comes right out now that that is gone we can access the solder joints so i'm going to start on that first capacitor i showed you now i don't have any fancy desoldering equipment and since the capacitor has two leads but i can only heat one up at a time what i do is i desolder one leg and then i rock the capacitor to the side while the solder is melted that will pull one of the legs out and then i go back and do the second one however for some bizarre reason the lead just pulled right out of the capacitor this time instead of coming out of the board it could be something to do with the fact that it was already leaking you can see the leaky residue on the board where it used to be the lead was being unusually stubborn now eventually i used some solder wick to remove all of the solder so i could see what was going on it appeared that it was just bent at a very sharp angle making it hard to pull it through anyway so i eventually got the extra lead out using a pair of pliers as you can see now that it is out i'll remove some of this hot glue that i couldn't get out before then i'll get started on this next capacitor this one came out easily with no problems at all it took less than NUMBER_TOKEN seconds this one had also been leaking on the bottom side though i'll use some solder wick to soak up the excess solder down here otherwise i won't be able to get the new capacitors through the holes okay so this is some shameless self promotion but i'm going to use one of the pre-made capacitor kits that i'm going to be selling on my website because i want to make sure these actually do work correctly before anybody buys them okay so you may notice that the new capacitor is a NUMBER_TOKEN microfarad it's just like the old one but it is NUMBER_TOKEN volts instead of NUMBER_TOKEN that's fine you can always substitute a higher voltage but you may notice it's smaller this concerns me as well because i'm afraid some other specification of the capacitor may be wrong but i've asked around and i've been told that capacitors have just gotten smaller over the last NUMBER_TOKEN years okay another important thing to mention is that electrolytic capacitors are polarized so that means they have to go in one specific direction you'll notice that they always mark the negative side with a little stripe usually the boards are marked like this too but this board they've marked the positive side with a little plus symbol so we'll make sure the minus sign goes on the opposite side and insert this down into the holes now the leg spacing is slightly off on the smaller capacitors so they aren't going to sit flush on the board like the old ones unfortunately now what i usually do before trying to solder these is to bend the leads out slightly that will keep it from falling back through the hole while i'm working on
START_SELFPROMO_TOKEN holes okay so this is some shameless self promotion but i'm going to use one of the pre-made capacitor kits that i'm going to be selling on my website because i want to make sure these actually do work correctly before anybody buys END_SELFPROMO_TOKEN