of the solid state relay when you're shopping for them you need to make sure you get one for AC control and also make sure that the current rating will be above what you're switching at NUMBER_TOKEN volts NUMBER_TOKEN Watts will only be a bit over NUMBER_TOKEN amps but as a rule of thumb the higher rated relay you get the cooler it will run on low current you'll see some footage coming up with the knockoff relay but rest assured once I had the good one I switched to it and that's what's currently inside my printer the SSR is clearly labeled negative and positive for the input from the main board and then the other side is where the AC current goes through and is switched on and off to do this properly you'll need to crimp on some connectors and insert them into the terminals of the power supply you can fit two terminals in at the same time if you rotate them so the two flat side such each other and then tighten down the screw terminal giving it a wiggle to make sure that nothing is loose the last thing we want is loose or arcing wires inside our printer here's the wiring for my finished as per my diagram and you can see I've got a second SS are sitting in place because my new chamber heater will be mains powered as well the other thing we need to take into account is the SSR getting hot it says with over NUMBER_TOKEN amps I definitely need a heatsink but that's not me so the last thing to check is an ambient temperature of over NUMBER_TOKEN with my printer sitting on full load for around NUMBER_TOKEN minutes the temperature inside the enclosure stabilized pretty close to ambient at NUMBER_TOKEN degrees I've checked that my solid state relays aren't gonna get too hot and melt anything and you should do the same for your setup too now's a good time to revisit that earth green and yellow wire on my diagram because I'm running a plastic NUMBER_TOKENd printed case it's a horn to earth the solid state relay as well as the printer frame to do this I made up this custom loom that goes from the earth terminal of the power supply to both my solid state relays and then a final terminal to go to the frame it's important to either scratch away the anodized surface or pick a bolt like I did that goes inside the aluminium frame I chose this one down the bottom of the Z guide rails with the printer turned off and the multimeter set to continuty you touch the earth terminal on the power supply and the old aluminium heated bed and you want to make sure that they are connected on an end of five this is straightforward as the bed only travels up and down but on a printer where the y axis moves the bed please see my previous guide where I show you how to earth that safely in Australia our CDs are fitted to every home hypothetically if the silicone were to break on the new heater and a live wire therefore touch the aluminium bed current would flow back through our earth and trip the circuit breaker for the rest of the world I can't say whether you have one of these hence the disclaimer at the start of the video finally we're trying to stave off work hardening and that's the process where a wire goes back and forth until it weakens and snaps it's really important to reduce the risk of this happening on our high voltage wiring therefore I strongly suggest you use a cable tie or similar to clamp down the bed heater cabling
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