for these boards we need a negative model of the traces i'm drawing a quick box around all the traces and then i'm subtracting all the traces i want from that block then i can just export what's left as a mesh and import it into the slicer in this case sheet to box make sure the orientation is correct the design needs to be flipped and then increase the exposure time for the first layer up to the values we got from the exposure tests earlier i'm also setting exposure times for the other layers to zero just to be safe check the preview export and you should be ready to expose some pcbs of course this process could probably be easier but since the mars NUMBER_TOKEN pro that i'm using as my main experimentation platform is using the whole sheeto ecosystem you're kind of bound to their tools okay rinse and repeat and whoops that's that's what happens when you add NUMBER_TOKEN grams of sodium hydroxide instead of NUMBER_TOKEN grams yeah that's that's a little bit too well developed but the pcb with NUMBER_TOKEN seconds exposure came out okay so i did a second one with NUMBER_TOKEN seconds and that one looks pretty much perfect to be honest i'm really happy with how this turned out these are perfectly usable pcbs especially the NUMBER_TOKEN second one it's just really crisp the fine traces look great for through-hole parts the only thing you'll need to do is to drill the holes but that's a fairly quick process on a drill press i mean making pcbs at home is not something you want to do in bulk but it's more for reducing the cycle time between having an idea making and trying a pcb and then making the next revision on it right away so the other thing i tried was using a blank copper clad board without the photoresist these are frNUMBER_TOKEN boards and you can cut them by deeply scoring them with a knife and then snapping them snapping the i said snapping them off no okay well there we go don't saw these when you don't have to dust is nasty so double-sided tape onto the bottom of the print platform which i re-leveled of course added some resin from today's sponsor i think i'm using the clear version of the blue resin and then i simply cured some resin onto the copper and surprisingly this resin sticks really well to the bare copper you can even make out the finer traces already after washing the only problem with it here is that it seemed impossible to find a balance between undercuring the first layer and not having it stick well and over curing it and covering up the channels that should remain open so that we can etch out the insulation channels between the traces unfortunately even leaving the board in the etching solution overnight they only get etched around the corners and on larger gaps but you don't see anything of the actual traces you know maybe one cool application of curing resin onto a pcb is adding your own solder mask and silk screen over the finished bare traces i was considering using ceratec's high temperature sculpt dressing for that but a it didn't get here in time and b i don't know what sort of fumes that would give off when you solder against it so one last cool thing that it did is to use the photoresist process for transferring an actual photo onto
START_SPONSOR_TOKEN from today's sponsor i think i'm using the clear version of the blue resin END_SPONSOR_TOKEN