shouldn't rely on is the thinnest part of the tripod leg that's the last section check how skinny that is if you've got thin parts of the legs and the center column extended it's about as stable as a newborn giraffe then there's the head the tripod head that is not your actual head because that doesn't have too much physical impact on the stability of the image unless you head butt the camera even with everything locked in place seemingly all firm and stable when you press that shutter button there's still going to be a little bit of movement well one of the things you can do is to get remotes you can trigger the shutter without actually touching the camera but the thing is not everybody wants to buy this little thing that you're probably going to get lost anyway well you've got the app i mean that does the trick doesn't it alternatively just put on self time although that doesn't mean you need to take a photo of yourself there are times when you might not be able to use a tripod or prefer to shoot handheld the mistake is not using a fast enough shutter speed well the quick fix is to flash the cache and sort yourself out with some seriously mad f-stop lusciousness having a lens with an aperture that opens up all the way to f NUMBER_TOKEN is nice but it's not just about showing off your premium optics it's incredibly useful when a light is at a premium so where am i i'm in oldwook station which is an old unused tube station in london that's a toilet what does it look like wow she must have been waiting a long time for the train having a large aperture will allow you to get fast enough shutter speed they say to add a one over your focal length for minimum shutter speed i say double that to be safe but just bear in mind when you're using such a large aperture with shallow depth of field using afs to focus on a subject that might move slightly they'll put you in danger of getting out of focus shots there are times though when you have a long lens and you can't get a larger aperture than therefore you'll just have to bump up your iso but be careful with the noise nobody likes filling back with menus but do check out the menu system for long exposure noise reduction you probably know what noise reduction is this is just for long exposures obviously so the geeky boot which you probably don't care about about you should care about is in the camera menu section four long exposure noise reduction that's off at the minute noise can potentially ruin a perfectly good shot by adding colorful crud into those dark tones which would otherwise be sumptuous without it when you enable it what it does is take two shots the actual image and a dark frame the dark frame is just a dark frame it's as if you took a shot with the lens cap on but you get dark frame with the noise and that dark frame just makes it easier for the camera to pick out where the noise is so it can just look at the actual image and pick out the noise from there the trouble is because it essentially takes two shots it's going to take twice the amount of time of your exposure before you can take another shot which can be problematic if you're taking hdr photos time lapses or focus stacking if you need to do any of that then you're better off switching long exposure
NO_SEGMENT_TOKEN