ValueError: buffer source array is read-only in check_estimator

### Describe the bug

I am trying to make a scikit-learn estimator `FMClassifier` based on Python wrapper `pyWFM` for C++ library `libFM` (yes :sweat_smile:).

```pytb
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module>
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/estimator_checks.py", line 627, in check_estimator
    check(estimator)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/_testing.py", line 318, in wrapper
    return fn(*args, **kwargs)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/estimator_checks.py", line 2603, in check_estimators_fit_returns_self
    assert estimator.fit(X, y) is estimator
  File "/home/jj/code/ktm/fm.py", line 40, in fit
    model = fm.run(X, y, X, y)
  File "/home/jj/.local/lib/python3.10/site-packages/pywFM/__init__.py", line 149, in run
    dump_svmlight_file(x_train, y_train, train_path)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_io.py", line 513, in dump_svmlight_file
    _dump_svmlight(X, y, f, multilabel, one_based, comment, query_id)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_io.py", line 386, in _dump_svmlight
    _dump_svmlight_file(
  File "sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_fast.pyx", line 222, in sklearn.datasets._svmlight_format_fast._dump_svmlight_file
  File "sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_fast.pyx", line 133, in sklearn.datasets._svmlight_format_fast.get_dense_row_string
  File "stringsource", line 658, in View.MemoryView.memoryview_cwrapper
  File "stringsource", line 349, in View.MemoryView.memoryview.__cinit__
ValueError: buffer source array is read-only
```

Possibly related issues:

- https://github.com/scikit-learn/scikit-learn/issues/4772
- https://github.com/scikit-learn/scikit-learn/issues/7981

### Steps/Code to Reproduce

```python
from sklearn.datasets import dump_svmlight_file
import sklearn
import numpy as np


class FMClassifier(sklearn.base.BaseEstimator):
    def __init__(self):
        super().__init__()
    def fit(self, X, y):
        with open('tmp.txt', 'wb') as f:
            dump_svmlight_file(X, y, f)
        return self
    def predict_proba(self, X):
        return np.zeros(len(X))


from sklearn.utils.estimator_checks import check_estimator
check_estimator(FMClassifier())
```

### Expected Results

Well I should get to the next error, should I? If it's illegal to write into memory (makes sense) then could it be written in the documentation somewhere?

### Actual Results

```pytb
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "<stdin>", line 1, in <module>
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/estimator_checks.py", line 627, in check_estimator
    check(estimator)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/_testing.py", line 318, in wrapper
    return fn(*args, **kwargs)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/utils/estimator_checks.py", line 2603, in check_estimators_fit_returns_self
    assert estimator.fit(X, y) is estimator
  File "<stdin>", line 6, in fit
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_io.py", line 510, in dump_svmlight_file
    _dump_svmlight(X, y, f, multilabel, one_based, comment, query_id)
  File "/home/jj/code/fare/scikit-learn/sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_io.py", line 386, in _dump_svmlight
    _dump_svmlight_file(
  File "sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_fast.pyx", line 222, in sklearn.datasets._svmlight_format_fast._dump_svmlight_file
  File "sklearn/datasets/_svmlight_format_fast.pyx", line 133, in sklearn.datasets._svmlight_format_fast.get_dense_row_string
  File "stringsource", line 658, in View.MemoryView.memoryview_cwrapper
  File "stringsource", line 349, in View.MemoryView.memoryview.__cinit__
ValueError: buffer source array is read-only
```

### Versions

```shell
System:
    python: 3.10.12 (main, Nov 20 2023, 15:14:05) [GCC 11.4.0]
executable: /usr/bin/python
   machine: Linux-6.2.0-39-generic-x86_64-with-glibc2.35

Python dependencies:
      sklearn: 1.2.dev0
          pip: 22.0.2
   setuptools: 59.6.0
        numpy: 1.23.5
        scipy: 1.9.3
       Cython: 0.29.28
       pandas: 1.3.3
   matplotlib: 3.6.0
       joblib: 1.3.2
threadpoolctl: 3.1.0

Built with OpenMP: True

threadpoolctl info:
       user_api: blas
   internal_api: openblas
         prefix: libopenblas
       filepath: /home/jj/.local/lib/python3.10/site-packages/numpy.libs/libopenblas64_p-r0-742d56dc.3.20.so
        version: 0.3.20
threading_layer: pthreads
   architecture: SkylakeX
    num_threads: 8

       user_api: blas
   internal_api: openblas
         prefix: libopenblas
       filepath: /home/jj/.local/lib/python3.10/site-packages/scipy.libs/libopenblasp-r0-41284840.3.18.so
        version: 0.3.18
threading_layer: pthreads
   architecture: SkylakeX
    num_threads: 8

       user_api: openmp
   internal_api: openmp
         prefix: libgomp
       filepath: /usr/lib/x86_64-linux-gnu/libgomp.so.1.0.0
        version: None
    num_threads: 8
```

COMMENT:
It seems that one of the checks is to check that `fit` returns `self` when `X` is memmap-backed data, which is not writeable. I'm thinking that changing `int_or_float[:, :] X` to `const int_or_float[:, :] X` may solve the issue. I've opened #28111 to give it a try.

Labels: Bug