古希腊和古罗马在衣料方面没有什么创举,是对地中海沿岸的上古文 明的继承,即亚麻文化与羊毛文化兼而有之。而对于丝绸,虽然早在公元前,古罗马就通过 丝绸之路领略了来自远东的丝绸的风采,但在相当长的历史时期内,古罗马人始终无法弄明 白这美丽织物的奥秘。一直到公元552 年,拜占庭帝国派遣两位懂中国话的传教士到中国, 才弄清丝绸的秘密,一个世纪以后,在拜占庭才织出丝绸来,而欧洲人自己能织出丝绸,要到13-14 世纪意大利文艺复兴之后。 Chineseflourishing silk culture,ancient Egypt flaxculture,Mesopotamia woolculture cottonculture.Without any innovation dressmaterial,ancient Greek ancientRome inherited culturewhich combines flax culture woolculture from antienttimes civilization BCancient Rome had appreciated silkfrom far east via Silk Road,people ancientRome remained ignorant about beautifulsilk relativelylong history.Byzentine Empire couldn’t know silkuntil senttwo missionaries who could speak Chinese onecentury later,Byzentium just successfully wove silkwhile European couldn’t make themselvesuntil ItalianRenaissance 13th–14th century. 不同的服装功能意识对于服装的功能,中国人与西方人在认识和侧重点上存在着明显的差异:自古以来, 中国人就非常重视服装的社会伦理功能.不仅仅把穿衣局限于保暖或装饰的功能,而更加关 注的是其“治国安天下”的社会伦理功能。从夏、商到周朝,随着服饰礼仪制度的完善,这 种观念几乎贯穿整个中国历史,历朝历代,统治者都非常重视用穿戴装束来统一人的思想, 不厌其烦地反复修订服饰制度,以此来规范各阶层人的行为,来“治国安邦”。 1.2.2 Different function ideology clothingChinese peoplefrom west have clear differences clothingfunction: from oldtimes,Chinese placed great emphasis socialethic function onlywore clothes just ornament,butalso paid more attention socialethic function establishingpeace throughout world”.FromXia Dynasty,Shang Dynasty ZhouDynasty,as etiquettesystem,this concept almost runs through wholeChinese history monarch everydynasty all accorded importance unifypeople’s view restrictingwhat nevertired revisingclothing system again makeall people from different classes conduct “managestate affair countrypeaceful”. 罗可可时期女装 西方在这方面就无法与中国相提并论,虽然古罗马人也曾十分重视衣服对于身份的 表示,封建时代也曾不断推出各种服饰禁令,但大多是一些奢侈禁令,很少有像中国人这样 充分地把服装的社会功能发挥到极致的,而更多注重的是服装的财富价值和审美功能。 Women dress aspect,western cannot compare ancientRome had ever put great emphasis statussymbols clotheswore peoplefrom different classes feudaltimes,every kind clothingbans had been constantly made ,however,most banswere forbiddingextravagance fewwesterners could make full use clothingsocial function like Chinese,in contrast,they paid more attention wealthvalue aestheticsfunction. 不同的着装观念在着装观念上,中国人和西方人相比也表现出明显的区别。由于儒家思想的影响, 以及对服装的社会伦理功能的重视,中国人穿衣始终保持着一种东方式的矜持,对肌肤严密 地包藏和掩蔽,中国服饰文化在一定程度上可说是一种“包”的文化,既不能“显露”体形, 更不能随便“裸露”肌肤。衣服与人体之间保持着一个宽大的空间,这促使衣服在造型上变 化相对较为平稳,很少有大的起伏,而在表面装饰上,在纹样、色彩的象征意义上,在衣料 质地和装饰手段的开发等方面得以发展;后者使中国的衣服始终保持着严谨的造型,除魏晋 时期的部分男装(如“竹林七贤”)和盛唐时期的贵族女装外,一般很少有裸露肌肤的表现。 1.2.3 Different dressing views Chinese westernersshow distinctions dressingviews.Because settingvalue socialethic function clothes,itshows east-stylereserve Chineseclothes hidcarefully which somelevel can saidChinese clothing culture whichfeature cannot nakedskin cannot alwayswide space between clothes bodywhich reasonwhy clothesstyle were relatively steady wereseldom big changes,but Chinese clothing progressed aspectslike surface ornament,the symbol patterndesign color,materialquality ornamentmethods;the latter made Chinese clothing style remain reserved,which generally speaking,naked skin hardlyseen somemen dress JinDynasties. (eg.the dress ”ZhuLin Qi Xian” famousliterati period,includingQi Kang,Ruan Ji,Shan Tao,Xiang Xiu,Liu Ling,Wong Rong RuanHan) noblewomendress gloriousTang Dynasty(AD 618-907). 与此相对,西方的服装则不同,除了中世纪受基督教的影响,出现了否定人的存在,否 定人体美的表现这种特殊时期外,无论是古代的“宽衣”文化,还是文艺复兴以来的“窄衣” 文化,西方的衣服都非常写实地,甚至是夸张地表现人的体形,尤其是自中世纪末期的“哥 特式”时代以来,更是十分“露骨”地“强化”男女两性在体形上的性别特征,不仅想方设 法来“显露”两性这种外形特征,而且不断地扩大裸露的面积和部位(尤其是女装)。在“显露”方面,还创造出一系列“补强”的手段。这种方式促使西方的服装在造型上起伏很大, 在衣服结构上出现许多人为的创造性。 specialperiod when humanbody appeared because Christrian,westerndress all represented realistically evenexaggeratedly matterwhen “wide clothes”of ancient times “narrowclothes” Renaissanceprevailed,especially since Gothic times lateMiddle Ages,the sex characteristics figureshave been emphasized more without any concealment westerners who designed onlyendeavored “reveal”thesefigure characteristics alsoexpanded continuously exposedareas bodyparts womenclothes).Speaking “revealing”,aseries improveclothes were created which made western clothes much more different from each other weremore creations 不同的着装方式从着装方式上看,中西方也存在着明显的区别。 1.2.4 Different dressing style alsoclear differences between China dressingstyle. 文艺复兴时期女装 中国的衣服自古以来就以上衣下裳为特征,前开前合,多用带子固定衣服,穿脱方 便;而西方的衣服则从披挂式到贯头式,再到前开式,形式多样。多用饰针或扣子固定衣服 (尽管西方的扣子是从亚洲学来的),形成一套较为复杂的穿着技巧。尤其是贯头式的穿法, 在中国服装史上很少看到,而在西方,这种着装方式却十分发达,从古埃及的“丘尼克” (Tunic),到古罗马的“丘尼卡”(Tunica)和拜占庭的“达尔玛提卡”(Dalmatica),再到 中世纪的“布里奥”(Bliaut),以及后来的各种“罗布”(Robe),几乎都是贯头式的。现代 女装中非常发达的一个品种——连衣裙,也以贯头式的为多,或者说最正统的连衣裙还是贯 头式的。而中国虽然早在公元前的春秋时就出现上下连属的“深衣”,但那从一开始就是前 开前合式的,后来的各种袍、衫,也都是前开式的。现在人们穿的前开的西式衬衣,过去也 是贯头穿的,真正的前开式衬衣是19 世纪中叶以后的事情。 womendress RenaissanceFrom oldtimes,Chinese clothes,separated takeoff, topjacket westernclothes were various which developed from hanging-style clothwhose length twotimes oneperson middlewhere made.Peoplecan wear clothesvia separated-in-frontstyle, fixed decorativepins westernbuttons were learned from Asia) relativelycomplicated dressing skills.Especially,the dressing style called Guantou-style which rarelyseen Chineseclothing history verypopular western.FromTunic ancientEgypt ancientRome MiddleAges everykind comeafter Bliaut were almost popularkind modernwomen clothes,are Guantou-style,or Guantou-styledress mostorthodox.As early AutumnPeriod(770 B.C-476B. C),”Shenyi”(deep garment,literally means wrapping bodydeep within madeup lowergarment one-piececloth appeared