Product review (5 stars): I did a lot of testing to get the results you should be interested in.
It's beautiful. It is shipped with a super thick cardboard surroundings. Inside there is a thick rigid foam top. On the sides there are thin 1/4" rigid foam panels. It fits snugly in the box. Unfortunately if you have a shipper that is rough with larger heavier boxes it can be damaged. Mine arrived perfect with even the box unscathed. My hat is off to Fed Ex. Careful cutting open the box. Do it at the very corner on the back or you can cut it free from the bottom and slide the whole box off. Everything is taped closed and there is a clear plastic film protecting the finished face. This appears to be a stainless finish in as much as it is not really stainless but painted to look that way. They even brush the finish so it really looks like stainless. All in all it makes for a very attractive refrigerator that most people wouldn't know it is not the real thing. At this price point it looks great and is very affordable. As of the time of this review it is the #2 seller in refrigerators.

It is larger than I originally expected which is a good thing. You can see the photos I provided. One of them is alongside an 80 inch high French door. This refrigerator is about 50" high. It is super-quiet by the way. Probably the quietest refrigerator I have, almost non-existent noise suitable to use in a bedroom too.

The instructions that come with it, and it is a good idea to read them thoroughly before doing anything tell you to let it sit for 4 hours before plugging it in after a fresh transport or tilted movement. That way the refrigerant/oil gets a chance to settle into the compressor. In addition it tells you that there should be a 4" clearance on both sides and the back (especially in the back) to allow air to circulate. Also do not have it next to a hot appliance.

I saw some comments about someone who could not get the desired temperature. I have to wait to run the test but I can't help but wonder if he installed it into a pocket area with insufficient air circulation. I noticed in the photos that it is less than the ideal clearance across the back which is the most important area; that is where it breathes. On top of that this refrigerator requires its own circuit as do all refrigerators that I have ever installed. A shared electrical line may drain the amount of electricity and result in poor performance. It only needs a 110 volt line.

I was glad to see that there is a pull out drawer for the bottom shelf. Otherwise you would need to get on the ground to find stuff. The interior of this is beautiful. See the photos. The freezer door is clear so you can see right in, and the controls are up top within easy reach.
Be sure when removing the power cord stuffed into the bottom of the refrigerator in the back that you do not disturb the very fine and thin refrigerant tubing. Lay on the floor and remove it gently working around the tube.

When I read another reviewer commenting on the inside temperatures that moved me to do some testing. Although my temperature findings were a lot different than his I think due to possible clearance requirements around the fridge so it can breathe and exhaust warm air and not have to sit in its own exhaust, the results nevertheless are interesting.

I have a large 24 cu ft. Whirlpool God side by side sitting right next to it. It has electronic settings in the front and it is suggested right in the programming of the settings that shows up on the screen that the ideal temperatures are 37 degrees in the refrigerator, and 0 degrees in the freezer portion. Since each portion is separate you can adjust them individually. So that is our basis and other sources online concurred.

So here are the results of the test. The Hisense has a single temperature setting since the freezer box and the refrigerator box share the same compartment. The owners manual suggests that you set it to 3 or 4 out of 7. I ran my tests with an empty refrigerator. The manual says you can set it higher if you have a lot of food in it. So the results: Set at 4 the freezer was 14 degrees above zero (18 degrees below 32 degrees which is freezing) All measurements are Fahrenheit. And at 4 the next shelf down below the deli/meat shelf was 35 degrees. Set at 5 it was 5 degrees in the freezer, and at 6 it was 1 degree below zero, BUT the next shelf down was 22 degrees. That means your food is getting frozen as well. At 4.5 it is 31 on the first shelf. So 4.0 it is. I put some food in it and let it sit overnight and this morning the refrigerator portion was at 35 upon rising. I started to test it empty at the 7 setting and within about 2 minutes from the 6 setting it was already at -3 below zero and dropping so the mfrs. stated lowest freezer capability of -11.2 below zero rings true. Stating the refrigerator ranges from 32 degrees to 50 degrees is a bit of a stretch because I found it would go below freezing of 32 in the upper shelves. A quick note as an update: I woke up this morning with some food in the fridge and it was of course closed all night and it was 10 degrees in the freezer and 35 degrees in the fridge with the setting on 4.

I had purchased two of the&nbsp;<a data-hook="product-link-linked" class="a-link-normal" href="/Midea-WHD-113FSS1-Double-Reversible-Door-Refrigerator-and-Freezer-3-1-Cubic-Feet-Stainless-Steel/dp/B00MWXSFM8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8">Midea WHD-113FSS1 Double Reversible Door Refrigerator and Freezer, 3.1 Cubic Feet, Stainless Steel</a>but it has a separate freezer door instead of an all in one and it is real stainless instead of the painted and brushed equivalent. So the technology is that the Hisense has one compartment and the cold from the freezer metal walls cools the lower section as well. That is cheaper to produce but restricts the ability of each individual compartment. When I tested the Midea it was set to medium overall yielding 2 below zero in the freezer section, and 35 degrees in the refrigerator section which is near perfect.

Refrigerators that are this size in the 6.x cu ft. range with separate freezer and refrigerator compartments and doors generally speaking are about $200 more. So if you are looking for a great looking unit at a very reasonable price point this may be a good choice.
I also have two dedicated freezers which are large and consume around $30 per year worth of electricity as well and I set them at -6 below zero, and -10 below zero. I took some fresh tomatoes that I put through the Harvest Pro sauce maker and froze them in zip lock bags and over 8 months later they tasted as fresh as the day I picked them.

The lesson here is that if you are going for long term storage get a dedicated freezer, or at least one with a separate freezer and fridge compartment. Since these small refrigerators aren't big on the net storage space they will readily get your food below 32 degrees. The settings are infinitely variable so I suggest you get a fridge thermometer and tweak them. The settings are not click settings but rather an infinitely variable dial so you can fine tune them to the exact spot you want.

The manual also tells you to not have this refrigerator near a heat source. So what do I do? I put a combination microwave/convection oven on top of it. I'm hoping that the 2 1/4" mahogany boards I put under it raise it up enough that since heat rises it won't be a problem. I will have to touch the underneath surface while under use to determine that. I am sure a regular microwave won't cause a problem. One final note: Be sure and give the refrigerator its own circuit to the breaker. If you combine it like plugging it into a shared line with let's say the toaster the refrigerator could fail over time; it needs full current. Love this unit, glad I have it. It absolutely is gorgeous.