Product review (3 stars): Didn't have to buy it
When the icemaker quit in our 22' GE side by side, I discovered that there wasn't any water in the tray. This led me to replace the water inlet valve assembly on the back. Still no ice production. Thinking the icemaker itself is faulty, I removed it and wanted to see what makes it tick. Figured I was going to buy a new one anyway, it didn't matter if I broke it.

The white front cover on mine just pulled right off, revealing the cube size adjustment screw and two white plastic gears, and the wiring schematic inside the cover. Three screws hold the plate that has the power unit, main shaft and two switches on the back. The wires are long enough to tip the plate out and access the switches. This unit has the shut-off bail, and the end of it protrudes through a small hole on the plate. (Don't lose the spring!) The switches I tested all seemed to work, and are timed & activated by the eccentric shaft.

I reassembled it (minus the cover), hung it loosely in place and plugged it in. Nothing happening. I think the cycle is started by the thermostat, when it decides the water is frozen. With no water it didn't start. With a screwdriver in the slot of the small drive gear, rotating slowly counter-clockwise, the motor started and went through it's cycle. It's now making ice again and is half full this morning. Woo-Hoo!

EDIT: Sadly, it has stopped working, again. It makes ice, but I'm thinking the thermostat isn't sensing the ice is done. Therefore, it doesn't send power to the motor to start the cycle for the mold heater and extraction. I'm bummed, and looking for a replacement.