Product review (5 stars): Fits Correctly and Works Well. What More Is There to Say?
While replacing the drive shaft and bearings, a major undertaking, I bought this as well as it had to be removed to get the basket out of the washer. Compared to the cost of the drive shaft, bearings and the special "tool" needed for proper removal and installation of the bearings and seal, it was inexpensive and one may as well replace it at the same time. The old one, worn a tiny bit and obviously aged but still serviceable, is stashed with washer accessories. Doesn't take up much space. Not much to say beyond it fits perfectly and works properly. Does what it needs to do. Comes with two upper spline portions as which one is needed depends on specific machine model. My washer is a Sears Kenmore Oasis, which were the Cabrio made by Whirlpool for Sears with the Kenmore name on it. Be aware that the Cabrio and consequently the Kenmore Oasis evolved some over time. Ensure that this specific hub kit is for your specific model Oasis or Cabrio.

I've seen reviews stating this is breaking frequently. It shouldn't. It should last nearly forever if the rest of the machine is functioning correctly. Frequent breakage is indicative of a worn out drive shaft and bearings. Beyond breaking this part frequently, the washer will not agitate properly and your clothes won't end up as clean as they should. They are one of the design weaknesses of the model line although I believe that improved over time as the model line evolved and the new replacement parts are better than the original. If the drive shaft and bearings are shot they should be replaced! If they aren't, the washing machine will eventually start to sound like a coffee grinder run amok even in the agitate cycle, and water will begin leaking some around the drive shaft onto the floor under the washer. The grinding sound during spin becomes horrendous. At that point, replacing the drive shaft requires considerable effort to get the old one out. I had to use a bottle jack and specially cut 2x4 to jack the basket off the drive shaft and it simply did not want to budge even a hair, even after dousing the shaft with 50/50 ATF and Acetone in a metal oiler (world's best penetrating oil; gotta shake it up every time you use it). PB B'laster and Kroil are the best commercially available penetrating oils for parts that have rusted together. WD-40 is the least effective of all penetrating oils for breaking loose nuts, bolts and shafts/bearings that have rusted together. WD = Water Displacing. It's a water displacing light lubricant to prevent rust and water corrosion, not loosen it. My hub spline assembly wasn't damaged, but knowing now how the machine agitates and spins, and shifts between the two modes using this, it's not hard to understand how it could break if the main driveshaft and bearings are worn out as it will be subjected to much more mechanical stress than it was ever designed to tolerate.