Product review (4 stars): Great unit, just needs some tweaks.
My experiences, after 1 year of ownership:

When you get it home, you need to get the (included) CO2 tank purged and charged. I found a local fire suppresion company that would do it, and they have food grade CO2 there. I believe it was around $20 to do that. There was a little bit of assembly required, and the whole unit went together very easily. The CO2 canister can sit on the back of the fridge, or it can go inside the fridge. I originally had it on the back of the fridge, but that prevents the fridge from sitting flush against a wall, so we ended up putting the CO2 inside the fridge. Once the fridge cools down, set your line pressure regulator to 12 psi. The pressure regular is attached to the side of the CO2 bottle.

Locally (Canada) a 20L keg is $109.95+$20 deposit. I haven't purchased an 58.6L kegs, but I understand they may be a better deal per liter. The keg fridge above will hold 2x 20L kegs or 1x 58.6L keg. If you use the 58L kegs, you won't have any room for pop or anything in the fridge. That said, with the 20L kegs, you'd need to build a small stand in order to put a lot of pop in the fridge. I keep 4-6 beer glasses in there. Once you get the kegs in there, you need to let them cool and sit for 24-48 hours to reduce foam and let them truly cool.

Now you're set up: except that it won't work. This is where my learning came in. The kegerator has a digital display that reads the internal temperature of the fridge. The problem is that the temperature sensor is at the bottom of the kegerator (where cold air sinks to) and is within 6-8" of the cooling coil. Basically what happens is that when the fridge is set to 37-39 Fahrenheit, the bottom of the fridge is that temperature, but the top of the fridge could be 10-20 degrees warmer. The fridge is only set to get to a set lower temperature limit, so I ended up cutting my temperature probe out and soldering a small resistor in-line and then putting the temperature sensor back. This let me drop the temperature by another couple of degrees - so the fridge is actually colder than it thinks it is. You'll need to use your favorite search engine to find info on the resistor modification.

Once that was done, I had to combat the problem of the temperature disagreement between the top of the fridge and the bottom. This modification adds a fan to the bottom of the fridge and blows cold air up into the beer tower to cool it down and keep it cool. This is very important because if the beer tap tower is warm, then the beer will foam out. I purchased a pre-made tower cooler. You'll need to use your favorite search engine to find info on beer tower coolers.

This fixed our foaming problem for a while (except for a manufacturing defect in the 3/8" interior diameter clear hose -- it wasn't crimped properly to the connector and had debris in the line, that was causing the beer to foam). The next problem that arose is that the beer tap that comes with the Danby fridge works on a slide mechanism. The problem with this is that it gums up after about 10 days and becomes hard to slide. Not only is it hard to slide, but the "beer stone" or "beer store" that builds on the slide mechanism also taints your beer. I ended up buying a Perlick tap that works flawlessly.

When I purchased the faucet, I also purchased 6' of 3/8"-interior diameter beer line as it turns out that the standard line that came with my Danby fridge was too short. It works out that a 12-psi (as above) your beer will stay fresh for 40-60 days, and that a 6' beer line will provide enough resistance that your beer won't pour too fast causing foam.

Now you're ready to enjoy a nice domestic brew. But, should you decide to get a SteamWhistle, you'll need to pick up an A-style keg coupler. The domestic kegs generally all use a standard "D-style" keg couplers. The Dandy comes with a D-style one.

Oh, you'll also need to buy a kegerator line cleaning kit.

Hope that helps with what I went through.