Product review (5 stars): Home brew controller
I received my TC9102D HV on a Saturday and had my freezer chilling the
next morning, ready for my next batch of amber ale.  I just wanted to add
a little to the reviewers' remarks.  First, according to my electrical
engineer neighbor, the power lead, not the common side, should be switched
- Always.  All the instructions say is that the relays have no polarity
and will accept any voltage up through 240v.  While you could switch the
common side, it's a BAD idea.  Several reviewers mentioned they received instructions in Russian?  Mine was in English.  In any event, the manual for the controller is on the manufacture's website at:
[...]

If you are unclear on wiring, here's how I did mine.

Wiring is a snap.  I got a double metal electrical box, a on/off switch,
an dual outlet, and a 1/2" connector to connect the metal box to the
controller.  There are pictures of these things in another reviewer's
entry.  I pulled a three prong 14 gauge electric cord from my grab bag of
Goodies from a long dead circular saw.  If you have to buy one, 6' 14 gauge would be fine for up to 15
Amps.  The round prong is ground, the wide
blade is common and the narrow blade is power.

So, my cord comes into the metal box:

Common (white wire): Run a common lead up to the "common" screw of the
controller's "Power Connection."  Run a common lead to the screw on the
wide blade side of the electrical outlet.

Power:  If you want the whole unit switched, run the power through the
switch.  Using the screws on the same side of the switch, run the black
line from the power cord to one screw.  Then the lead coming off the other
screw will be switched "power" for the next circuit (may be marked
"common" on the switch itself...ignore that).  Run the now switched power
lead to the controller.  This lead will make three connections: the 120v
screw of the Power Connection, one side of stage one and one side of stage
two.  I just cut little lengths of wire, exposed 1/4', twisted the strands
together and bent into a "U" shape.  I used the "U"s to jump the power
from one to the next connection.  Each stage should now have an empty screw.  Run leads from each of those screw back down to the electrical box.

The outlet:  On either side of the outlet, you'll see two screws.  Note a
metal tab that bridges the connection of these two screws.  Leave the common
side alone.  On the narrow blade side of the outlet, break off that tab
with a screw driver or needle nose pliers.  Connect the now relayed stage
one line to one screw on the narrow blade side and the relayed stage two
line to the other narrow blade side screw.  Now you have two independently
controlled outlets.  You could take a sharpie and put a black dot on the stage one outlet and two dots on state two.

Ground: connect the ground (green wire from the round prong) to the ground
screw (probably stained green) on the outlet.

Hope this helps...