Product review (5 stars): Let there be ice!
I purchased this kit from another amazon listing but I wanted to share this info because it would have saved me some time.

After some research this seems to be the only diy option for repairing your w10377151 ice maker. Like many other victims, my ice maker blew a pin clip within the control board where it hooks to the heater element. Although there is an interesting youtube video of someone making this fix with a bullet casing, I figured I would go the more common route of replacement. Like many other reviewers, I was hoping to find a plug and play ice maker assembly that could just be popped in and done. This isn't the case as I believe the manufacturer has changed its design after realizing the fatal flaw. Be aware because of this design change the new assembly will have the dial on the front and a white water cup instead of the blue one. This is supposedly an upgrade and will work as a replacement. Also, the new part number on the item will say w10300024 which denotes the repair kit. This does not mean you received the wrong part.

Unfortunately, this redesign involves replacing the wiring harness. Two separate wiring harnesses are included but you only need one. You can quickly identify which one is needed by comparing the wire colors and connectors to the one that is currently installed on your ice maker. The new one should almost be identical. Also included are two plastic covers. One has a hole cut in it for the power switch and one does not. This is because some models have the power turned on from the front panel of the refrigerator. If, like me, your ice maker has a power switch, you will have to transfer this over from the old cover to this one.

Also included in this kit is the metal portion of the fill level arm. This arm is a different shape than my original one. My kit did not come with instructions so I was unsure of which one to use. Since it is provided with the kit, I assumed it was the correct one to use. They do not include the plastic flapper piece, so this will have to be transferred over from the old one. After installing the new arm, I realized that it did not allow the arm to be moved up and down like the one on the old ice maker. I put the old arm back on and found that although I was still unable to move the arm down, I was able to click it up into another position. This reminded me of a different style of ice maker where you would lift the lever up to permanently shut it off and click it back down to turn it back on. Since this ice maker has its own power switch, I determined that this may be why this kit includes a new arm that is bent differently and does not allow this movement. This also may be why another reviewer had an issue where he had to reset the ice maker each time it made a full bin of ice. So I put the new arm back on and hoped for the best.

As for the harness transfer, like others have said, as long as you take pictures you should be able to transfer the harness without much difficulty. I have attached the pictures I took in case anyone misses that step and ends up stuck. I also put some automotive style terminal dielectric grease on most of the connector contacts to try to prevent corrosion. I also opened up the front of the control box and applied some grease to those pins as well to further attempt the original issue from repeating itself. This was a fairly new ice maker so not many of the connections were corroded, but I did notice some on the on off switch located on the front cover.

I slid the ice maker back in, gave it an extra push to get it past the water line, reconnected the connector, turned it on, pressed the door closed button and heard the wonderful sound of the ice maker filling. A little over an hour later the machine dropped its first batch of ice. Success!

In case you were wondering, after powering the unit up, the fill arm dropped to the expected position and all is well.

Also, the hardest part for me in the whole evolution was trying to figure out how to disconnect the main connector prior to removing the maker from the fridge. All you need to do is press on the center of the ice maker side of the connector where the tab is and the connector will pop right off. I will not disclose everything I tried before figuring this out.

Another note, don't get discouraged if after completing the transplant and flipping the power switch to no avail, remember that, at least in my case, the door needs to be closed in order for the magic to happen. You can bypass this by pressing in the button that tells the fridge the door is closed.