Product review (5 stars): An involved DIY repair but not too bad if you're patient
I just finished this repair job yesterday on a Maytag Bravos Quiet Series 300 washer. Here's a few tips to anyone attempting this repair:

1) Complete list of tools needed - putty knife (to depress spring clips), adjustable wrench (for lock nut and to use bearing tool), vice grips (to hold shaft when removing lock nut), pliers (to remove spring clamp on drain hose), 3/8" drive ratchet, 1/4" allen socket (for bolt holding rotor bell), 7/16" socket and extension (for bolt holding basket), 3/8 socket (for bolts holding stator), hammer (to knock out shaft and to use a punch when removing old bearings), phillips head screwdriver (remove screws holding the basket hub and to keep rotor bell from moving when bolting it back down) and finally a large paper clip or stiff wire (to clean out weep hole near inner bearing).

Optional but nice to have - LED headlight (always helps to have more light to see), a roll of shop towels (to soak up water and clean up parts), a block of wood (hit it instead of hitting the shaft during installation to prevent damage).

2) Rent the bearing installation tool online for ~$25 plus shipping back. You can futz around with attempting to make your own with a threaded rod and washers but why risk the bearings being set out of place and having to do the whole job over again to save a few bucks? Hitting the bearings with a hammer to install them also seems like a quick way to ruin them.

3) If your washer has this problem, replace the bearings sooner than later. My washer just started making the "jet engine" sound a few weeks ago. When I started this repair and looked at the factory installed bearings, I noticed that they were already significantly corroded. I can only imagine how much more difficult it would be to remove the bearings if I put off the repair for later. I also got lucky and did not have to use the jack trick to remove the basket.

4) The spring clips to remove the washer top are much stronger than expected. You'll need a stiff and strong putty knife to get them to budge.

5) Expect to set aside some time to clean up any mold that has accumulated underneath the wash plate cap, on the bottom of the wash plate, and finally the outer tub itself. It was quite disgusting to see all the black mold hidden in the nooks and crannies on the underside of the wash plate. You'll need some q-tips and some vigorous scrubbing in a sink to get rid of it. I use bleach with every load of whites and keep the washer top open when done washing and mold still accumulated in the washer over the years.

6) Set aside at least 24 hours for the Pliobond adhesive to cure before testing out the washer after the repair. Also be sure not to apply excess adhesive. It'll slowly settle near the shaft and that could risk the whole bed of adhesive ripping off in one piece when the shaft spins. It also helps to keep the area you are working in well-ventilated area when using the adhesive. Pliobond gives off quite a strong smell and isn't healthy to breathe in according to its MSDS.

7) Remove and inspect the drain trap in the inner tube while you have the basket off. I didn't find anything in mine but it only takes a few minutes to remove the cover (two 1/4" bolts that can be removed with a multibit screwdriver without a bit in it) and check.

8) When putting the washer back together, be sure to fasten the bolts and screws attaching the stator and basket hub in a criss-cross pattern like when you change a wheel on a car. This distributes the attachment force evenly. The Youtube videos of this repair show people attaching bolts on one side and that way risks parts being misaligned.

All in all, this is not a difficult repair, just a very tedious one. I now understand why labor costs on this repair are so high. If you're getting your spouse to do this repair, be sure to show a lot of appreciation when the repair is done.