Product review (5 stars): Frigidaire LEQ1442ES1?  Youtube videos are NOT ENOUGH!
For the money, I rate this product 5 stars as of the first day... this might change if the blue (plastic??) part does not last as long as the original nylon part.  The spindle itself is better than the ones you see on YouTube, because the hub is prethreaded, and the kit DOES include the ball bearing, grease, screws and instructions for "standard" machines.  However, if you own one of the newer model Frigidaire dryers, you need more info than the vids offer.  It's not that simple!

There is one video on YouTube that does show disassembly for THIS 1442ES dryer properly.  If you've seen it already, you might not need to read all of the stuff below, but the videos always make things seem simple and they edit out their mistakes.  I am just trying to point out that there are dozens of YouTube videos, but they are not for this unit, even though the parts are the same... so watch this one before you begin so you have a good overview at least: [on YouTube, SEARCH "Frigidaire Dryer Diagnostic - Making a Vibrating Sound When Running"] (This repairman does not really fix anything at all, but at least you get to see the job of removing the panels and the drum).

I would also like to say that if your bearing is shot, more than likely the front drum glides and felt are about to need replacing as well, so you might consider purchasing them at the same time and doing the whole job at once.

1.  Open the top panel (NOT as shown on YouTube with a putty knife... you will damage the control panel and possibly ruin it).  Instead, just remove the two screws at the top rear of the machine and slide the top BACKWARD and off. [Shown nicely in the above video]
2.  The bottom panel under the door is removed next so that the upper part can be removed without damage to the blower's foam gasket.  It's held by two screws at the very bottom, and you'll need to tilt the machine back a little to get under there.  Next just pop the panel downward and the pegs pull out from the center panel. [Shown nicely in the above video]
3.  Now, looking down onto the machine, at the front edge you will see two to four screws that hold the front panel in place.  Mine had only two and the other two holes were not threaded, so the factory skipped them.  You will have the extra chrome screws after installation (new ones furnished) so save those for this purpose. I noticed in the video, there are NO screws in the top... decide for yourself if you want them there.
4.  From the top, look down the sides about 8 inches and you will see another screw on each side just above the alignment pegs.  Remove those. [Shown nicely in the above video]
5.  At the bottom front of the center panel there should be two more screws on little tabs at each side.  Remove those.
6.  Remove the little nylon drum catcher from the center of the top... this will make things easier to remove and replace the drum. [Shown nicely in the above video]
7.  At the top right side of the frame there is a wiring harness.  You will need to cut the zip-tie an squeeze the connectors to disconnect them. [Shown nicely in the above video]
8.  As you remove the front, support the drum so that it doesn't fall hard on the blower.  Set the panel aside carefully, the top two panels still connected to each other.  It's fine to let the drum rest on top of the blower while you do this.
9.  Remove the rear hatch behind the motor and rotate the belt off... it won't be tight because you lowered the drum a little.  I first did this like the videos show, but you can't see what you're doing... better to remove the little rear access panel.
10.  Now lift the drum straight up and back gently to lift it off and out of the old bearing... you can look at the new one if you don't understand, it's just a cradle.
11.  One of the YouTube videos shows a "trick" he says makes changing the bearing easy, by re-using the old bracket, but I actually found it easier (since the top is fully removed from the dryer) to change the whole thing... just put a good dob of grease in the ball bearing socket and it will hold in place.
12.  Install the new bearing and bracket as per the written instructions, no problem unless you lose the ball bearing... I guess then it's ok to use the old ball bearing.  Be sure to fill the grooves on the bottom of the plastic bearing with grease.  Use it all and spread a little on the rest of the inside of the plastic.
13.  Remove the old spindle ball from the back of the drum and put in the new one.  It's a little bit of a stretch for short-armed guys like me, but I did the first screw by poking the screw through the hole and holding it in place with a long screwdriver.  Snug it slightly to allow the other holes to line up and hand start the other two screws, rotating the drum so you can reach both sides.  If you can't get your arms all the way around it, you might try holding the new spindle in place with tape after lining up the holes. [Not shown in video]
14.  Put the drive belt back on the drum and carefully lift it through the opening to near where it was sitting before.  Be careful not to pinch or snarl the belt on something below the drum.
15.  Replace the drum and lift it high in the back to put it into the new bearing cradle.  Carefully rotate the drum a little to make sure it seated properly, because you cannot see it at all.
16.  Re-install the front panel, being careful to thread the wiring harness back so it does not get pinched.  Re-installation is not as easy as removal, but just hang it from the top brackets and put the screws into the top loosely until you've put in the bottom screws, then replace the side screws and tighten the 8 screws.  Be sure to make sure the drum threads over and around the felt on the front panel opening. [Shown nicely in the above video]
17.  Putting the belt back on will be a little tougher with the drum supported, but it does go on.  Make sure you put it around the idler pulley the right way so that the belt is very tight, and the ridged side is making contact with the motor pulley and the drum, backward would probably slip.
18.  Snap the wiring harness connectors back together and put in a new tie to hold it away from the rotating drum.
19.  Spin the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning freely and not hitting anything... it's easy to fool yourself into thinking you got the spindle into the bearing correctly.  Once you are satisfied all is well, plug in the machine (KEEPING YOUR HANDS AWAY FROM ANY MOVING PARTS OR WIRING) and turn the machine on for a second to see if all is working properly.  If so, turn the machine off and unplug it again until you've replaced the top panel, the small hatch at the back where you access the belt and motor pulley, and lastly the bottom panel at the front, after checking that the blower input duct is snug in place and the foam preventing leaks.
20.  Clean up your mess, put the tools away, wipe the grease off the machine and shout "Honey, it's fixed."