Product review (5 stars): Best purchase of the year!
My partner and I bought this washing machine because we live in a top-floor apartment with one coin-operated washer and dryer for all of the tenants to share.  We found out after move-in that everyone in the building operates on roughly the same schedule and we needed to time the wash cycle literally down to the minute for fear of annoying the neighbors and getting our clean clothes dumped on top of the dirty dryer.  When we consulted our lease and property manager, we were basically told that we could use something like this as long as it didn't cause any kind of leak and we didn't change any of the piping inside the walls (anything under a kitchen or bathroom cabinet was fair game).

We looked at the different sizes for this brand but opted for the 1.6 CF size because the wet clothes at the end fit perfectly in a portable dryer that we bought to go with it.  The dryer we got advertises that it can accommodate 9 lbs of wet laundry and the link/specs to that item can be found here: <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SUDJIQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>.  I find that this machine washes an entire work outfit (pair of pants, underwear, socks, long-sleeve shirt, undershirt) and 1-2 additional items depending on size/shape.

The washer comes with two standard water intake hoses and a faucet adapter (which fit our kitchen sink but not the bathroom sink).  As noted in other review, the machine gives an error message and you could risk burning out the motor if there isn't water pressure going to both intake ports (hot and cold).  If you are going to use the faucet adapter, make sure that it fits your sink and spend $10-15 on a Y-Connector so that you can use one hose/faucet with both ports.

The washer has about the same footprint as a square laundry basket or hamper.  For this reason, we ended up buying new water hoses with a 90-degree bend at one end so that we can back the machine up to the side of the bathroom sink.  There is only about a 1.5" gap with the new hoses and the top of the washer is just above counter level.  The drainage hose very conveniently hooks onto the left side of the machine if you are facing it and we just place it in the tub when we start a cycle.  Our bathroom sink drains very well (ie - no clogs) but it didn't drain fast enough for the machine and would have overflowed if we didn't switch the drainage to the tub.

In the end, we didn't want to sacrifice the convenience of a hard-wired washer so we actually cut the pipes under the sink and added compression t-connectors.  We then added another small length of 0.5" copper pipe and put on a washing machine shutoff valve similar to this one: <http://www.lowes.com/pd_135578-34146-WMVCOMP+1/2_0__>.  The pipes look and connect the same exact way they did before except there is a hookup on each side that can twist closed when we move out without needing to cap and solder anything.  With this setup the only difference between this and a full-size washer is that we have to remember to place the drain hose in the tub or else our bathroom will flood.  I do want to add as a disclaimer that you shouldn't attempt this unless you (1) have permission and (2) are comfortable enough with plumbing to do proper compression fits that won't leak.  If you haven't done it before, either stick with the faucet adapter or get someone with plumbing experience to help you with pipe hookup because a lot can go wrong.

According to the energy guide, this will cost $34/year to run assuming you wash 8 loads of laundry per week.  This is definitely cheaper than the coin-op machine I was using before.  I have also noticed that my tub needs less scrubbing to stay clean because the bleach water from the clothes does the work for me.