Product review (4 stars): Kit is perfect, good quality, instructions however require modification!!!
This works very well, the deluxe is IMO the only way to go. If you're a DIYer and can understand how to do something just by looking at it, you'll be fine. The directions however are lacking in several important ways. For example it says to trace the front plate openings for where to cut the barrel: DON'T. You need remove the doors to trace the openings, AND add enough to the cutout area so that the flange of the front will cover the cut edges of the opening (for me it was about a half-inch more on the main opening and 3/8" for the cleanout opening). If you didn't, the flange that should stick into the stove over the cut edge will hold the entire  assembly proud of the barrel and you can't get a seal. It's obvious if you visualize it carefully and think about how the stove functions, but it's not in the directions at all. You also need to remove the screws and nuts that hold on the hooks that receive the latches, or they'll stick the face proud of the barrel while you're doing all this. You need to to remove them also (and drill a hole for the screws, another omitted step) for installation of the front, but nothing in the instructions. Instructions also say "the smooth end of the stovepipe fits *over* the stove pipe collar" (emphasis mine).  Anyone in the stove business will tell you that's hogwash, and luckily the pipe cannot fit over the collar anyway. You have to put the NOT smooth end (the male, rippled  end) INSIDE the collar, so that any condensation drips inside the chimney and not run outside. Vogelzang tech confirmed this. Also when mounting the flue collar, you need to remove the pin and the damper plate to access two of the mounting holes and for ease of tightening the nuts. Its easy, you just have to compress the tensioning spring against the handle and then rotate and withdraw the pin with an extra turn midway, but again nothing about this in the instructions. Like I said, if you're not skilled at DIY it would be a head-scratcher.

Additional notes for a 30-gallon barrel installation: the kit is curved to fit a 55-gallon drum, so a 30-gallon requires some mods to work. The front plate is fine but is mounted on the bottom of the barrel where there are no plugs. The flue collar (and, in my case, the stove plate doodad) absolutely require a gasket replacement kit to seal. I placed the base plates in place and drew the cutouts (again, with some consideration for what would actually work) and cut them out. Then I clamped them in place and drilled two screws to hold in place. Then drill the rest of the holes using the holes as guides, as they will shift about due to the curvature and if you just mark them through the holes, remove and drill it would be off. Put all the screws in place with the nuts barely threaded on to them to give maximum play. Now, *important*, saturate the gasket with the black cement/sealant and using the space those loose screws gives you, tuck the gasket into the space between the barrel body and the iron plate all the way around. THEN you can go around and using a ratcheting socket set and screwdriver, tighten opposing screws incrementally until a good seal is formed all around and the barrel forms as much as you can to the more-shallowly-curved fittings.

This done, you'll have a properly-installed kit that won't leak and will give you years of service.