What causes waves? (wind stress)
Channel: Kids Fun Science
Date: 2021-06-05

What causes waves? (wind stress)
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Chapters
0:00 Intro Kids Fun Science
0:06 What you need
0:53 3 The 3 main wave generation forces
1:12 1st experiment blowing to make waves
2:06 2nd experiment house fan to make waves
2:24 How large the waves get is dependent on 3 factors
2:44 3rd experiment air blower to make waves

1st experiment blowing over the surface was not enough wind to make but little ripples that didn't go very far.

2nd experiment with the house fan made ripples go farther but not very large in size

The 3rd experiment created the most waves as it was able to maintain the 3 factors strength of the wind, amount of time the wind blew and the distance (called fetch) over which the wind blew in a straight line.

What causes waves?
Well wind generates waves and it works when wind blows over the surface for a long distance and time makes the waves. What the wind is doing is making energy from the wind to the water.

A disturbing force is necessary to create waves on the ocean surface. The type of disturbing force determines the characteristics of the generated waves. 

The 3 main wave generation forces in are: 
• Gravitational Attraction of Moon and Sun produces Tides 
• Earthquakes and Under water Landslides generate Tsunami 
• Wind Stress over the ocean generates Wind Wave

Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean transfers energy into the water. Initially, light winds generate small Ripples called capillary waves on the water surface. If the wind increases, the added roughness created by the capillary waves increases the rate of energy transfer and waves begin to form on the ocean surface.

Waves on the ocean surface are usually formed by wind. ... The faster the wind, the longer it blows, or the farther it can blow uninterrupted, the bigger the waves. Therefore, a wave's size depends on wind speed, wind duration, and the area over which the wind is blowing (the fetch).

How large the waves get is dependent on 3 factors:
• The strength of the wind 
• The amount of time the wind blows 
• The distance (called fetch) over which the wind blows in a straight line across the ocean

Tsunamis
Often misnamed tidal waves, Tsunamis are long period waves that originate when a strong earthquake or landslide occurs under the ocean. The motion of the earth sends a strong impulse of
energy into the water generating surface waves with open ocean heights of less than 2 feet but
with wave lengths of over 100 miles and wave speeds approaching 500 miles per hour!