How To install a Led Light Fixture without wiring
Channel: Andrea Box
Date: 2022-05-21

Led ceiling lights on https://amzn.to/3sQKN8J

1) 00:00 Cheap ceiling light kit
2) 00:55 How to disassemble a chandelier
3) 02:26 Parkside stone drill set
4) 03:34 How to mount an E27 lamp holder
5) 06:17 How to strip electrical cables
6) 07:32 How to fix a ceiling light in the attic
7) 08:59 How to illuminate the house well

How to replace a circular neon chandelier in the kitchen with the cheapest Brico ceiling light for less than 10 euros with an E27 socket, suitable for a standard energy-saving LED bulb.
Before proceeding, I procured a set of LIDL Parkside stone bits, mammoths, and electrical wires.
To operate in total safety, I disconnect the general meter to interrupt the flow of electricity throughout the system.
To remove the old chandelier, simply remove the cover base, disconnect the electrical cables and remove it from the hook, obviously, the procedure may differ depending on the model.
I first arrange the electrical cables in the attic.
I prepare two single mammoths and connect them to the two wires that come out of the attic, in such a way as to facilitate and isolate the connections of the electrical wires.
Mark with a pencil the points were to make the holes for the supplied anchors that will be used to fix the base of the light fixture to the ceiling.
I choose from a set of Lidl Parkside stone bits the one that is suitable for the dowels, that is the 5-point drill, simply by comparing the base of the drill with the diameter of the external plastic part of the dowel.
If the tip is decent even with a small rechargeable portable drill you can make the holes easily and precisely, but you have to be careful not to drill the area of ​​the ceiling where the cables pass, while for those who want to limit the dust just use a vacuum cleaner while drilling.
I insert the external plastic part of the plugs into the holes.
The ceiling light I bought does not have the wiring so I proceed to make it.
I prepare the electrical wires for the connections. By convention, we use the black or brown wire for the phase, the blue wire for the neutral, and the yellow-green wire for the earth.
Strip the electric wires at one end by incising them lightly with a cutter, removing the piece of the sheath with pliers, and shortening the part of the cable without sheath to the length necessary for the lamp holder terminals,
in such a way as to limit as much as possible the presence of uninsulated cable portions.
I insert the phase cable and the neutral one in the respective terminals and tighten the screws. Usually, near the terminal, it is indicated whether it is the phase or neutral one, but in any case, the phase terminal is the one that connects it to the central contact of the bulb.
I connect the earth cable to the connection prepared by the manufacturer on the base of the ceiling light, even if the old system does not include the earth cable, I prepare it anyway.
I put the supplied fireproof insulating braided fiberglass sheaths on the electrical wires of the phase and neutral.
I cut and strip the cables at the ends to be connected to the mammoths previously prepared on the floor.
Reassemble the ceiling light bypassing the wiring through the housings and holes prepared by the manufacturer. Not being able for the moment to use the earth cable, I isolate it.
Using a phase finder screwdriver, check which phase cable is and whether it is controlled by the switch. If it is the phase cable, the bulb inside the screwdriver lights up.
I connect the ceiling light cables to the mammoths of the respective ceiling cables.
Before screwing it in, all the cables and mammoths should go inside the base of the ceiling light and make sure that the eyelet for the hooks of the heavier chandeliers, if you do not want to eliminate it, remains outside the base, but in each case subsequently covered by the glass cap of the ceiling light.
I fix the ceiling light to the floor using the dowels, screwing the screws to the external casings inserted in the holes previously drilled on the floor.
I screw in the Led bulb.
I turn the main power switch back on to test everything.
I apply the glass cap by screwing the two screws with knob heads and plastic washers supplied into the threaded holes provided by the manufacturer.
Usually, in the kitchen, there should be a level of illumination as uniform as possible from 300 to 500 lux and in particular on the worktops of at least 500 lux, but the mobile lux meter application has detected on the table about 260 lux so it will be necessary to put a bulb with double luminous flux compared to the current one of about 700 lumens or another light point of similar power. It is important not to confuse lux and lumens because essentially lumens measure the constant flow of light that comes out of the bulb while lux measures the ones that actually reach the eye.

I decline any responsibility for any damage to people, animals, and things, as the video is for entertainment purposes only.

#diy #lighting