Fabric Waxing Tutorial
Channel: Markus Stratus
Date: 2015-02-16

Not seeing any thorough videos on YouTube about waxing flat fabric, I decided to make my own. This shows techniques I've learned through the trial and error of previous projects. I discuss how to wax uncut fabric but most of the techniques can also be applied to premade items, it will just be harder to control consistency. Read more below to see points I missed in the video

A couple items I forgot to include are: 

1, Proportions of oil/wax are measured by volume. You can determine volume/weight of waxes and oils at this site http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/weighttovolume.php

2, When I was talking about fabrics to use I was describing weave... I should also have mentioned ripstop fabric. But you can use entirely 100% synthetic fabric. Waxing the fabric fills the yarns with a water resistant material as well as closes the spaces between the yarns. It's typically used on natural fibers because you can get synthetic fabrics that are already waterproof.

3, Don't drag the squeegee across unmelted portions, you will just remove wax that would otherwise have melted into the fabric, giving you thin spots when you go over that portion with the heatgun.

4, Also, you can take the wax you're using, solidified, and rub it onto the surface of the fabric to add a little bit more to those thin spots where you didn't get enough wax in the first place. Better than going over the thin spots with a brush because then you get too much wax.

5, Other methods include using solvents to get the mix absorbed into the fabric (but those smell and take a long time to get the solvent evaporated) or to thoroughly wax the fabric and then place it in the oven and the wax melts into the fabric once it gets up to temp. The way I present controls burning better and still provides super consistant results. My method probably takes longer than the other two, but you wont mind after you're all finished because of how well it's done. 

6, It's assumed that waxed fabric will be used as outerwear or accessories. Because of that it wont pick up body odor. Liquids can just be dobbed off if they don't simply roll off it first. Dirt and grit can be brushed off and mud should dry before being brushed off as well.
Putting it in your washer or dryer would probably make a mess of the machines and dry-cleaning is out of the question. It's easy care stuff by its nature.

7, The fabric doesn't need any drying time with just oil and wax. Some people use a solvent/spirits like turpentine in the wax blend so they don't have to get the fabric hot to have it absorb. Blends like that need to sit until the solvent has evaporated.

8, It's possible to have the wax/oil rub off onto clothing and accessories. The higher the oil percentage, the more likely it will rub off. Having a higher wax content will be less likely, but it's still possible to have it rub off. This is one of the reasons outerwear is usually what is waxed.

9, Waxed fabric isn't hard to sew on a machine. Actually, it may be easier than the dry fabric because the oil/wax may lubricate the needle and thread as it makes a stitch. One thing you will notice is that the teeth under the foot (feed dogs) may get jammed up with wax, so it would be good to have a stiff bristle brush to scrape out the wax. Also, you may notice the bed and foot getting oily. If it's a concern for the next project, you'll probably want to clean the machine afterwards.
 
A couple tips from watchers include: Try searching for Bogus Paper, a thick, disposable paper used in packaging and protection. It's a thick absorbent paper, similar to the painters paper I used in the video.
Also, consider using a cheap electric crock pot for melting the wax. An easy alternative to the double boiler

Like and Comment! 
Cheers,
Marcusstratus