LECTURE: The Isabella MacTavish Fraser Gown - The Historical Contexts of a 1785 Tartan Wedding Dress
Channel: Timesmith Dress History
Date: 2020-06-29

This talk will appeal to anyone with an interest in fashion history, Scottish history, in tartan or material culture of the 18th century,  in women's trades, whether you are a reenactor, costumer, academic or museum professional.

In the summer of 2019, a team of historical mantua-makers and seamstresses re-created the making of the famous 1785 Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown. I was the team lead for this project. 

Beginning with a talk at the National Museums Scotland in Edinburgh in October 2019, I have taken the re-created dress on tour to share the details of the project and what can be learned from reconstructing an original 18th century gown. 

Here is the slide presentation that formed the basis of the talks scheduled for the USA in March 2020. The first talk in the tour was held on 3rd March at the Keeler Tavern Museum & History Center in Ridgefield, Connecticut, but the talk on 14th March at Woodlawn Manor House in Sandy Spring, Maryland, had to be called off when the venue was closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. 

In person, this talk is accompanied by a Q&A session and followed by a hands-on study of the recreated gown. 

Merchandise in the Isabella tartan available directly from my shop: 
https://tinyurl.com/yalz2fm8

#theisabellaproject, Scotland, tartan, historical dress, #therealfraserbride

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CITATIONS & SOURCES: 
• Arnold, Janet ‘Patterns of Fashion” (1984)
• Waugh, Norah ‘The Cut of Women’s Clothes’ (1968)
• The Metropolitan Museum of Art (1690s mantua: Accession No. 33.54a–c)
• The Metropolitan Museum of Art (1710 mantua: Accession No. 1991.6.1a, b_01)
• The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (1750s wool brocade gown: Accession No. 1988.223)
• National Museums Scotland (1740s Indian cotton gown: Accession No. A.1979.1110
• Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession No. 271-1898)
• Gown originally in the collection of Doris Langley Moore, sold at auction (Kerry Taylor) 2012. https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/an-embroidered-lawn-robe-a-l-anglaise,-circa-78-c-08c4a79de0
• The DAR Museum (1780s quarter-backed gown: Accession No. 2005.1.1)
• Antoine Raspal, The Couturiers Workshop, c. 1785, Musée Réattu, Arles, France
• Lewis Walpole Library, The Pretty Mantua Maker, Folio 72 771 D37 v.2 plate 6
• Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser (London), December 5, 1782
• Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser (London), (date not cited) 1782
• Edinburgh City Archives
• Caledonian Mercury (Edinburgh), Thursday 05 October 1721. 
• Helen Murray of Ochtertyre, approximately 8 years old, painted circa 1750 (artist disputed). See https://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Murray_of_Ochtertyre.pdf
• Garters authenticated by the Victoria & Albert Museum, sold at auction (Bonhams) 2019. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25363/lot/275/?category=list&length=10&page=28
• Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress 19 George II, Chap. 39, Sec. 17, 1746
• http://www.tartansauthority.com/
• Burt’s Letters from the North of Scotland as related by Edmund Burt (available on https://books.google.co.uk/) 
• The Journal of A Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, L.L.D. by James Boswell, Esq. (available on https://books.google.co.uk/) 
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waulking_song
• Richard Waitt, The Hen Wife (date disputed)
• James Besire (English), A Lady in the Highlands of Scotland, 1759, National Galleries Scotland, Accession No. PGE 49
• Sketches by Paul Sandby (English) in Edinburgh, c. 1750, British Museum.

FURTHER READING
• Waine, R. “From Rebellion to Romantic Appreciation: the wearing of tartan following the Act of Proscription” in History Scotland, Vol. 19 No. 6 November/December 2019
• https://timesmith-dressmaker.co.uk/reading-list

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PHOTO CREDITS:

My thanks to the following photographers for their enthusiasm and support before, during and after the project and for their generosity in granting permission for their photos to be used in presentations, talks and articles in connection with this project: 
Clare Campbell / Prickly Thistle, Inverness Museum & Art Gallery, Lauren Stowell / American Duchess, Inc., Chas Whatmore / Sole Productions, Simon Lees, Atelier Nostalgia, Peryn Westerhof-Nyman, Katy Stockwell, Dr Alison Mayne.
All rights reserved.

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Music: “Highland Hymn” by Bonnie Grace (Epidemic Sound)

Join Epidemic to access tons of music for YOUR videos! https://www.epidemicsound.com/referral/v5uc9b/

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I am Rebecca Olds, an independent researcher, 'original practice' maker and teacher of reconstructed historical clothing of the 18th century.

Find me: 
https://www.timesmith.co.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/timesmithdresshistory  
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Commissions welcome!
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Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020