HAUNTED PLACE IN DEHRADUN | At Mall road Mussourie ||
Channel: Circuitpedia
Date: 2021-08-01

Like all other hill stations of India, Mussoorie too has a glorious colonial past. In spite of rampant construction and haphazard growth of the town in recent years, one still comes across the past while walking around the town. One such place is the Christian Cemetery on the Camel’s Back road, just a stone’s throw distance from the hustle and bustle of the Mall Road the main tourist attraction of the hill town. As I found out, history lies buried in this cemetery of Mussoorie.

The meandering road provides for a perfect stroll surrounded by nature. The setting is sylvan abound by mighty deodars over running creepers and moss all around. Though it wears a shabby abandoned face, probably owing to the dwindling Christian population in the town, there is an innate peace and tranquillity. The marble tombstones are crumbling being exposed to the weather over the years and the engravings have nearly disappeared. Upon investigation, one finds many graves from the 19th and early 20th century for the town was initially meant to be convalescence town for the Europeans, especially the soldiers wounded in the wars. The wind whistling through the trees and the mist floating down the hill adds to the beautiful scenic picture. Thousands of tourists who visit the hill station every year, rarely stop to visit the cemetery. It may be  because there is absence of history walks here, which are so popular in places like Puducherry and Delhi.

The cemetery was established in 1829 and was the final resting place for a large number of Europeans. In the cemetery lie the hill station’s first European settlers, army generals, soldiers, surgeons, British memsahibs, teachers, writers and priests among others.

The plaque at the entrance gate of the cemetery, states that the first burial, was that of Sir C Farrington of the 36th regiment, who died on March 26, 1826. He was buried by the side of the road near halfway house at Jharipani. Subsequently, two cemeteries were established at Mussoorie- one at Landour and one at Camel’s Back Road. The earliest grave at the Landour cemetery is that of Captain George Bolton who was buried in 1828.

John Hindmarsh lies buried in Camel’s Back cemetery. He  was one of the survivors of the Crimean war. He  was part of the 600 strong  British Cavalry which charged towards the Russian guns. These 600 soldiers were immortalised by Alfred Tennyson in his poem, “The Charge of Light Brigade.”

The charge of the Light Brigade was a charge of the British cavalry against Russian forces during Battle of Balaclava on October 25, 1854 in the Crimean War. The main intention was to send the cavalry to prevent the Russians from removing captured guns from defeated Turkish positions. However, there was miscommunication and the cavalry went for a frontal assault against the Russian artillery battery. The assault ended with very high British casualties and no decisive gains.

The  charge of the British cavalry became subject of Lord Alfred Tennyson’s  poem "The Charge of the Light Brigade" (1854). Its lines emphasise the valour of the cavalry in bravely carrying out their orders, regardless of the obvious outcome.

Another grave is that of  John Lang, the Australian writer and barrister, who is believed to have represented Rani Lakshmibai in a lawsuit against the British.

Lang had started a newspaper called “The Moffusilite,” in 1845 that was often critical of the East India Company. Major Hugh Fraser, who was with the British contingent that fought against Rani Lakshmibai in the battle near Gwalior in 1858, was also buried at this cemetery.

Fredrick Wilson too lies here. He married a local girl from Harshil in Uttarkashi and was also known as ‘Pahadi Wilson’. He was the first man to float the timber down the Ganges.

Sir Henry Bohle is also buried here. Mussoorie has a had long tradition of brewing. India’s first brewing house ‘The Old Brewery’ was started by Sir Henry Bohle here. Initially they only  made beer but later started producing whiskey. Due to licensing issues, ‘The Old Brewery’ closed down until Sir John Mackinnon (Bohle’s brother-in-law) restarted it in 1850 as Mackinnon & Co.

The cemeteries in Mussoorie are much more than old relics. However, these need to be taken care of. Presently left in neglect due to the general apathy of the authorities and others alike, the cemeteries need to be preserved and prevented from being vandalised by those unaware of the value of such sites.

At a time when the Government is focusing on various apsects of the State to encourage tourism in its various forms, it would be appreciable if the cemeteries too are accorded at least the basic care they should be. Care and awareness on the historical importance could elicit much appreciation from visitors who arrive in the area but leave without knowing such uniques aspects of Mussoorie.