INTERDISCIPLINARY METHODS AND NEW PERSPECTIVES ON INSCRIBED TEXTILES: CHRISTIAN‘TIRAZ’
Channel: European Association of Archaeologists
Date: 2021-03-18

World collections include an important group of textiles with inscriptions in Coptic and Greek dating from the late Antique and early Islamic periods in Egypt. The appearance of a distinctive Christian form of ‘tiraz’ demonstrates the intersection of religious cultures. These textiles functioned on various levels as textual documents as well as intimate personal objects. They contain extensive information pertaining to cultural practices, religious beliefs, social relationships and production processes. To date, we have found over 250 inscribed fragments in European and North American collections. Among these, an important group of shrouds is remarkable for their size and elaborated inscriptions. The fragments are noteworthy for their complex construction which integrates different techniques and materials in ornate compositions. Now that the significance of these objects has been recognised, there is a desideratum in scholarship to study this material. To fully assess the extensive information contained in these cloths, it is important to apply interdisciplinary methods. Our research integrates detailed technical analysis with objective testing methods. These include dyestuff analysis with UHPLC-PDA, fibre analysis with TLM, SEM-EDX and radiocarbon dating. In addition, we have conducted reconstruction experiments to study particular production attributes. One area of interest pertains to dye techniques to achieve strong dark colours. Analysis and documentation of embroidery stitches provides an aid to recover damaged text. Our team of international scholars includes a Coptologist to study the unique palaeography of these written inscriptions to interpret their form, content and cultural context. By applying interdisciplinary methods, we have sought to interrogate all observable attributes. Our data have resulted in interesting findings, but have also created a number of questions which have stimulated new perspectives. The goal of our interdisciplinary research is to develop a comprehensive understanding of Christian ‘tiraz’ in a form accessible to broader scholarship.


Author(s): Galliker, Julia (University of Michigan) - Rösel-Mautendorfer, Helga (Inscribed Textile Research Team)