What are Weaving Design Fundamentals? Explanation of all Features of Weaving Designs
Channel: Textile Magazine
Date: 2018-05-27

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A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads.
These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp
threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that
run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and
the weft as picks or fillings

Woven structures are classified into the following categories:
(i) Simple structures
(ii) Compound structures

A weave is the interlacing pattern of the warp and weft. Two kinds of interlacing are possible :
(i) Warp overlap in which warp is above weft
(ii) Weft overlap in which weft is above warp

The repeat of a weave is a quantitative expression of any given weave. It indicates the minimum number
of warp and weft threads for a given weave. It comprises of warp and weft repeat

The three basic elements in a woven design are :
(i) Design
(ii) Draft or drawing plan
(iii) Peg or lifting plan

The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design. It is made
up of a number of squares, which constitute the repeat size of a design. The vertical direction of the
squares indicate the picks and the horizontal direction indicates the ends. A blank in a square indicates
Woven Design Fundamentals 9
that a warp goes below the corresponding weft and ‘X’ mark in the square indicates that the warp floats
above the weft.
The draft or drawing plan indicates the manner of drawing the ends through the heald eyes and it also
denotes the number of heald shaft required for a given weave repeat. The choice of the type of drafting
plan depends upon the type of fabric woven.
 The peg or lifting plan provides useful information to the weaver. It denotes the order of lifting of
heald shafts. In a peg plan the vertical spaces indicate the heald shafts and the horizontal spaces indicate
the picks. The peg plan depends upon the drafting plan. In the case of a straight draft, the peg plan will
be the same as the design. Hence no peg plan is necessary in the case of a straight draft.

             
      
  
The various drafts are classified as follows :
(i) Straight
(ii) Pointed
(iii) Skip and sateen
(iv) Broken
(v) Divided
(vi) Grouped
(vii) Curved
(viii) Combination


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