Waves and shallow water | Wikipedia audio article
Channel: wikipedia tts
Date: 27/06/2019

This is an audio version of the Wikipedia Article:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water


00:00:28 See also
00:00:55 External links



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Speaking Rate: 0.9693975297245715
Voice name: en-GB-Wavenet-B


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SUMMARY
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When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom.  The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position.  As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape.  After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.