Changing 2 Stroke Reeds (on Arctic Cat Sled)
Channel: Andrew Crocker - Fixin2Ride
Date: 2020-07-29

Installing replacement or aftermarket reeds can seem like a big task. But when you dig into it, the process moves along quickly. If you've never done it before. Check out this video! It will be roughly the same for all models with Cylinder reeds, Case reeds or Induction (Reeds inside intake ports on bottom of cylinder) reed porting but with potentially a bit more work on newer sleds/ machines, on account of the tighter packing of components. 

 I will walk you through the process and show you just how easy it is. And just to make it even easier.. I will added this list of steps into the information to help out even further. 

Step 1: Open drive belt cover and remove belt by locking the parking brake and then push and twist open the driven clutch.
Step 2: Remove air box by unscrewing both upper mounting screws. You may need to work the box out by moving side to side. 
Step 3: Remove Carbs by loosening all intake flange clamps w/ Philips head or Socket head (commonly known as allen key) driver & pull carbs out. 
Step 4: Remove all intake flange bolts and put in baggie and pull out all intake flanges and set aside. 
Step 5: Remove all Reed Cage Assemblies carefully to prevent ripping the gasket. I like to use a sharp razor blade in between the gasket and cage. 
Step 6: On clean surface, remove all reed petal retaining screws w/ Lock washers and place in secure place for each of the set of reeds/ cages.
Step 7: Inspect reed cages for any damage to mating surfaces of both the reed petal rubber base as well as the inner/outer portions of the cages.
Step 8: Place new reeds on cages & carefully screw in old screws, making sure lock washers are accounted for & a bit of 242 Blue Loc-tite on threads.
Step 9: Make sure each & every screw is secure and tight while not over tightening them but snugged up well. 
Step 10: Clean all mating surfaces with some like Iso-propyl Alcohol, Carb Cleaner or my non-residue leaving favorite, brake cleaner.  
Step 11: Install new reed cage gaskets (or if reusable, the old ones) 1st, then the cages & then intake flanges into the reed ports. New gaskets are typically recommended but using a sealant like Permatex The Right Stuff Black 1 minute sealer or similar is okay to use to ensure no air leaks.
Step 12: Apply a small drop of 242 Blue Loc-Tite to each Flange bolt before installing & finger tightening each bolt. 
Step 13: Torque each bolt to 6-9ft-lbs in a criss/cross pattern but check manual, you may not have to do that. Be sure NOT to over tighten as these bolts will break easily. They are typically 6mm/ 1/4" OD bolts. 
Step 14: Reinstall all intake flange clamps & then carbs and tighten all clamps.
Step 15: Reinstall air box, making sure all wires, fuel lines and oil lines are out of the way from being pinched or potentially rubbed through.
Step 16: Reinstall driven clutch and torque bolt to around 22-24ft-lbs
Step 17: Open up driven clutch and install belt around both clutches and close drive clutch ensuring proper sit of belt. (good belts should have about 1/8" of the side of the belt showing above top edge of driven clutch. 
Step 18: Close and Secure Belt cover and hood! 

ALL DONE! GREAT JOB!!!! 

 Here is a list of some of the new (used parts supplier) tools, parts and materials I used in this video. 

-Permatex The Right Stuff 1 Minute Sealant:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85080-Resistance-Silicone-PowerBead/dp/B000HBGI1M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=permatex+the+right+stuff+1+minute+gasket&qid=1596022008&s=hi&sr=1-3

- Boyesen Power Reeds:
http://www.boyesen.com/power-reeds-282.html

-Loc-Tite #242 Blue Thread Locker:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

- West Michigan Snowmobile Parts (Used and Some New):     https://www.facebook.com/westmichigan

- Socket Head set:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10288A-Master-Socket-32-Piece/dp/B004LE0XBC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=socket+head+set&qid=1596021845&s=hi&sr=1-2