RevolutionCrossroads/si_us_revolutionary_era_collections huggingface dataset:
umbrella
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Umbrella
Umbrella; Parasols; Accessories Carried; Female
Date made: 1804
Measurements: length, including handle: 31 1/2 in; 80.01 cm
Credit line: Gift of Dr. William H. Dall
handkerchief
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Handkerchief
Handkerchief; Accessories Carried; Female
Date made: 1810
bequest of: James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
made for: Mason, Sidney
made by: Iona
made in: Puerto Rico
Measurements: overall: 14 in x 14 in; 35.56 cm x 35.56 cm
Credit line: Estate of Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James
handkerchief
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Handkerchief
Handkerchief
Accessories Carried
Handkerchief; Accessories Carried; Female
Date made: 1780 - 1799
bequest of: James, Catalina Juliana Mason Myers
Credit line: Estate of Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James
Franklin's Suit
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Suit, 3 Piece
Man
Suit
Main Dress
Suit, 3 Piece; Entire Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1778
associated person: Franklin, Benjamin
Physical Description: silk (overall material)
linen (lining material)
Measurements: overall: 43 in x 16 in; 109.22 cm x 40.64 cm
coat back: 31 in; 78.74 cm
breeches: 20 1/2 in; 52.07 cm
breeches inseam: 15 in; 38.1 cm
coat arm inseam: 33 in; 83.82 cm
coat arm sleeve (outer seam): 33 in; 83.82 cm
Topics: Clothing and dress
Men
Dress accessories
Description: This three-piece silk suit, originally a dark plum color that has faded to a brownish hue, consists of a coat, waistcoat, and breeches. It belonged to a Founding Father, Benjamin Franklin, and is thought to have been made in France around 1778, the year the Treaty of Alliance between the United States and France was signed. Franklin, the American Minister to France from 1776 until 1785, was a key figure in Franco-American politics and often present at the court of King Louis XVI. This plain suit would have created a stark visual contrast between Franklin and those in the elaborate dress commonplace for the opulent French Court.
Benjamin Franklin was very aware of the messages that clothing could convey to others. He, as well as several other prominent Americans including Washington and Jefferson, was well versed in the fashion and textiles of the time. These educated men selected their wardrobe carefully as to match their social stature and political agendas. Franklin crafted his appearance knowing that it was a powerful visual symbol. This plain, but well-tailored, suit speaks to Franklin as a “simple republican.”
This suit represents one of only three hundred known Franklin artifacts still in existence. It symbolizes not only Franklin’s person style, but also his skill at using clothing as a way to communicate with others.
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suit, 2 piece
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Suit, 2 Piece
Suit, 2 Piece; Entire Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1779
date made: 1775
1770-1785
Description: Purple; wool; COAT- long shaped sleeves with turn back cuffs; 2 rows of gold metallic trim and 3 gold buttons on cuffs; curved front opening with 11 gold buttons and edging of same braid; pointed collar with braid also; large flap pockets at lower fronts with braided trim that creates effect of a double layer; pleats and flap opening at back with braided trim and buttons; center back length 41" (104.1 cm) WAISTCOAT- sleeveless edges and neckline trimmed in gold braid; 12 gold buttons at center front opening; flap pockets done in the same manner as coat at lower front; center back slit opening; center back length 27 1/4" (69.2 cm)
suit, 3 piece
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Suit, 3 Piece
Suit, 3 Piece; Entire Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1779
Description: COAT- purple corded silk; shaped sleeves with 4 3/4" cuffs; 3 self covered buttons on front upper edge of cuffs and scalloped ecru lace trim sleeve ends; stand collar; curved front opening with 10 decorative self covered buttons and mock buttonholes; large rectangular flap pockets at lower fronts with a button below each of pointed curves; pleats at side backs with a lap opening at lower center back; decorative buttons at back; black fabric bow at upper back neckline; center back length 42 1/2" (107.9 cm) BREECHES- same fabric; wide waistband with 3 self button closures at center front; buttoned fall at front; tightly gathered to back waistline with a white linen gusset; WAISTCOAT- sleeveless; off-white silk with purple, green and metallic thread floral embroidery around edges and pocket areas in front; sequin trim; wool back
coat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Coat
Coat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1785 - 1795
Description: Purple and white striped. The fashionable styles of men's coats changed slowly but resolutely throughout the 18th century towards a closer fitting, less covering garment. To make this change in silhouette, the cut of the coats changed subtly
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1799
Measurements: neck opening-neckline to top button: 5 1/2 in; 13.97 cm
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. W. Murray Crane
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780-1799
purchased from: Green, Carola R.
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1785
Measurements: neck opening--neckline/top button: 4 in; 10.16 cm
Credit line: Gift of Martin County Historical Society
Topics: À Disposition
Man’s Waistcoat, 1755–70
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1755 - 1770
maker: unknown
Measurements: overall length: 33 in; 83.82 cm
Credit line: Gift of James Douglas Thompson
Topics: Clothing and dress
Dress accessories
Textiles
Description: Men's fashion went through a revolutionary change during the last half of the eighteenth century, as clothing steadily shrank from a curvaceous, full-skirted style into a slender, vertical silhouette. The waistcoat was a vest-like garment that a man wore, along with his breeches, over his shirt and under his suit coat. This particular object dates from the middle of the century and illustrates the earliest phase of the waistcoat's evolution.
Clothing proportions were beginning to shrink by the 1750s. The white silk waistcoat with its precise repeat of woven silver flowers still had a hem that was almost straight, but by that time, fashion demanded slightly shorter and narrower skirts. The pocket flaps had been simplified to a pair of scallops, and the front skirts were tapered back slightly below the lowest button to expose more of the leg. Rounded front edges and a somewhat fitted waistcoat back helped to draw attention to the wearer’s chest by shaping the garment to his body.
This man’s white plain-weave silk waistcoat is woven with metallic silver thread in an all-over pattern of stylized flowers, repeated about every six inches. The waistcoat has 15 flat self-covered buttons that extend from the neck to the hip. One double-scalloped pocket flap is set on each front at the level of the lowest button. The skirt is mid-thigh length, and is cut away slightly at the center front edges to expose some of the wearer's leg. The skirt hem is barely curved. The back skirt is made of the primary fabric. The upper back and the full lining of the waistcoat are made of plain-weave off-white linen. The button-front is faced with the primary fabric; the buttonhole-front facing, and the front skirts, are faced with white silk taffeta. The skirt is vented at each side between the hip and the hem. The overall front length from shoulder seam to hem is 33 in. (83.8 cm).
To see how the clothing of a prosperous man would have been worn, link to the <a href="http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pinfo?Object=46899+0+none"><I> Portrait of a Gentleman Netting Partridges</I></a>, 1756, by Arthur Devis, at the National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C. The gentleman in the portrait wears clothing that was cut to look fashionably slender, much like the waistcoat featured here.
This Web entry was made possible in part by a generous grant from the National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers, in memory of Joseph S. Klein.
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1799
used in: United States: Maryland
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. Harold Dillingham, Mrs. Baldwin Wood, Miss Alice Smith and Miss Henrietta Smith
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770-1785
Credit line: Gift of Amy Pleadwell
Topics: À Disposition
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Main Dress
Man
Waistcoat
Upper Body
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780 - 1810
place made: France
used in: France
Credit line: Gift of Daughters of Mrs. Alice Pike Barney
Topics: Men
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780 - 1810
place made: France
made in: France
Credit line: Gift of Daughters of Mrs. Alice Pike Barney
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770-1785
Measurements: neck opening-neck/top button: 5 cm; 1 15/16 in
buttons: 1.3 cm; x 1/2 in
buttons, span: 46.1 cm; 18 1/8 in
lowest button, above base (max): 13 cm; 5 1/8 in
Credit line: Gift of Aldona S. Read
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1790 - 1810
purchased from: Ginsburg, Cora
Measurements: standing collar: 3 in; 7.62 cm
neck opening--neck seam/top button: 7 1/2 in; 19.05 cm
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780 - 1790
purchased from: Ginsburg, Cora
place made: United Kingdom: England
Credit line: Gift of Historical Dresses Fund
Description: Light green silk satin, spotted allover with tiny woven black/white ovals; double breasted, with twelve pairs of flat buttons embroidered with a coordinating design; round neckline, faced for revers; curved pocket flaps; short skirt with blunted corners at center front base; curved back seams, side seams, and center front edges; center fronts, base, and pocket flaps faced with white silk twill; lined with white linen; backed with brown glazed wool; vents at base in side and center back seams.
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780 - 1810
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. James Lambie Pimper
waistcoat
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat
Main Dress
Man
Waistcoat
Upper Body
Waistcoat; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1785-1790
used by: Serre, Simon
used in: France
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. R. Vicarino
Topics: Men
waistcoat fragment
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat Fragment
Main Dress
Man
Waistcoat
Upper Body
Waistcoat Fragment; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1799
place made: France
made in: France
Credit line: Gift of Daughters of Mrs. Alice Pike Barney
Topics: Men
waistcoat fragments
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Waistcoat Fragments
Waistcoat Fragments; Upper Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1770 - 1799
Credit line: Gift of Amy Pleadwell
Description: Two disassembled foreparts of off-white silk taffeta, embroidered à disposition with multicolored chain stitch floral garland; motifs on and below the two double-scallop pocket flaps depict drum, spear, banners, and torch; dog?, sword, and banner are at base, directly below pocket flaps; small sprigs are scattered evenly over the ground; eleven buttonholes, beginning about 4" below neckline; some of the four remaining self-covered flat buttons embroidered with sprigs are placed above the level of the buttonholes, on the opposite forepart; medium-short skirt with blunted center front corners at base; pocket flaps are faced with black velvet; left forepart has fragment of linen lining along center front.
breeches
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Breeches
Breeches; Lower Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1800 - 1849
Measurements: waist circumference, w/o gusset: 29 in; x 73.66 cm
overall length at side: 20 in; 50.8 cm
fall width, extended band, upper edge: 16 in; x 40.64 cm
fall width, upper edge w/o extensions: 15 1/2 in; 39.37 cm
fall width, base: 18 in; x 45.72 cm
fall height at right side binding: 5 1/2 in; 13.97 cm
front pockets, upper opening: 6 in; x 15.24 cm
waistband width, cb: 2 1/4 in; 5.715 cm
waistband width, side: 3 in; 7.62 cm
waistband width, cf: 3 1/2 in; 8.89 cm
opening, cb waist, length: 4 1/2 in; 11.43 cm
button, diameter, fall and knee: 5/8 in; x 1.5875 cm
buttons, diameter, cf waistband: 1 in; x 2.54 cm
buttons, suspender: 3/4 in; x 1.905 cm
seat--cb waist to crotch: 15 1/2 in; 39.37 cm
rise-cb waist to crotch to cf waist: 23 1/2 in; 59.69 cm
inseam: 15 in; 38.1 cm
knee band, width: 1/2 in; 1.27 cm
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. Edward Dirks
breeches
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Breeches
Breeches; Lower Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1785-1825
date made: 1780-1790
used in: United States: Maryland
Measurements: overall length--at side: 84 cm; 33 1/16 in
waist circumference--w/o gusset: 79 cm; x 31 1/8 in
fall width--straight, top edge: 27.8 cm; x 10 15/16 in
fall width--straight, across base: 27 cm; x 10 5/8 in
fall height--center seam: 16.5 cm; 6 1/2 in
side pockets, maximum: 15.5 cm x 24 cm; x 6 1/8 in x 9 7/16 in
waistband pocket welt: 2.6 cm x 9 cm; 1 in x 3 9/16 in
waistband pocket, maximum: 7.8 cm x 19 cm; x 3 1/16 in x 7 1/2 in
waistband width, cb: 5.7 cm; 2 1/4 in
waistband width, side: 8 cm; 3 1/8 in
waistband width, center front: 9.5 cm; 3 3/4 in
gusset, cb, length at spread edge: 18 cm; 7 1/16 in
gusset, cb, width: 11 cm; x 4 5/16 in
buttons, fall, waistband, pockets: 1.5 cm; x 9/16 in
buttons, knee: 1.2 cm; x 1/2 in
Credit line: Gift of Mrs. Harold Dillingham, Mrs. Baldwin Wood, Miss Alice Smith and Miss Henrietta Smith
Description: Black silk sateen twill knee breeches with three-button fall; wide fork; four-button closing at center front, with the third button from the top serving as the center button of the fall; the vertical strips at each side of the fall terminate in a point; the pocket at each side is covered by a squared panel which fastens at the outer corner to a button on the waistband, just above the side seams; four buttons are spaced evenly around the upper edge of the waistband for suspenders; the unlined black silk sateen gusset at back waist is flanked by one pair of worked eyelets for a lacing (missing); knees fasten with four buttons and silk ribbon ties; the waistband lining and the pocket in the right waistband are of coarse unbleached linen; the lining of the fall and the side pockets are of a less dense, finer grade of unbleached linen; the button side of the knee opening is faced with the better grade of linen; the buttonhole side of the knee opening is faced with black wool; all outside edges (waistband, kneebands, fall, and pockets) are stitched; side pocket flaps and upper edge of fall are edge-stitched and top-stitched.
breeches
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Breeches
Breeches; Lower Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1785-1812
date made: 1770-1790
user: Nichols, Francis
Measurements: waist circumference--w/o gusset: 84 cm; x 33 1/16 in
overall length--at side: 66 cm; 26 in
fall width, top edge: 22.2 cm; x 8 3/4 in
fall width, across fall base: 29 cm; x 11 7/16 in
fall height: 14 cm; 5 1/2 in
pocket, waistband, max: 2.8 cm x 10.5 cm; 1 1/8 in x 4 1/8 in
waistband width, center back: 7 cm; 2 3/4 in
waistband width, side: 9.5 cm; 3 3/4 in
waistband width, center front:;
gusset, center back, at spread edge: 13.5 cm; 5 5/16 in
buttons: center front, suspender: 1.7 cm; x 11/16 in
buttons: knee, side pocket: 1.2 cm; x 1/2 in
rise: 85 cm; 33 7/16 in
seat: 51 cm; 20 1/16 in
inseam: 45.5 cm; 17 15/16 in
button span at leg opening: 10 cm; 3 15/16 in
leg opening: 18 cm; 7 1/16 in
Credit line: Gift of Whitney and Mary G. H. Ashbridge
Description: Black silk satin breeches with a moderate-width 2-button fall; all edges of the fall and pocket panels are concave curved, giving the fall the look of a truncated, curved triangle; fully lined with tan linen, with the exception of the fall, which is lined with black twill wool; cut with a fork that exceeds 90 degrees; fall was widened by adding vertical strips to the left and right edges, and additional lap was created under the fall by adding extensions along the left and right sides of the opening; three-button center-front closing, with the lowest button hidden behind the closed fall; center front buttons and remaining fall button are flat polished jet with shanks; two remaining suspender buttons (of the original four) are also flat polished black jet with shanks; pocket welt in right front waistband; one pocket at either side of the fall is covered by a flared panel which fastened at the outer corner with a flat self-covered button (one button remains); upper edge of fall and edges of pocket panels are top-stitched; two pairs of eyelets flanking an opening at center back waistband are tied with two pieces of linen tape; five flat self-covered buttons are at each knee; the button sides of the knee openings are lined to the edge; the buttonhole sides of the knee openings are faced with black wool; each knee band is finished with a pointed tab extension of the buttonhole side, corresponding a short tab with a buttonhole at the back of the leg; knee band on button side of leg opening has rounded extension to protect leg from buckle; moderately full seat is pieced below waistband and at upper seat; pieced (or reinforced) at crotch with four quarter-round sections.
breeches
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Breeches
Breeches; Lower Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1780 - 1810
date made: 1765-1780
Measurements: overall length (side): 72 cm; 28 3/8 in
waist (without gusset): 92 cm; x 36 1/4 in
fall width--straight, top edge: 24.3 cm; x 9 9/16 in
fall width--straight, base: 25 cm; x 9 13/16 in
fall height--center seam: 13 cm; 5 1/8 in
pockets, side, maximum: 18 cm x 19 cm; x 7 1/16 in x 7 1/2 in
pocket, waistband, maximum: 7.5 cm x 14 cm; x 2 15/16 in x 5 1/2 in
pocket welt, waistband: 2.2 cm x 8.8 cm; 7/8 in x 3 7/16 in
waistband width, cb: 6 cm; 2 3/8 in
waistband width, side: 9 cm; 3 9/16 in
waistband width, cf: 13.8 cm; 5 7/16 in
gusset, cb, length at spread edge: 13 cm; 5 1/8 in
gusset, cb, width: 12 cm; x 4 3/4 in
buttons, diameter, fall: 1.5 cm; x 9/16 in
buttons, diameter, side pockets: 1.5 cm; x 9/16 in
buttons, diameter, suspender: 1.5 cm; x 9/16 in
buttons, diameter, knee: 1.2 cm; x 1/2 in
buttons, knee, span: 6.2 cm; x 2 7/16 in
opening at knee, length: 11 cm; 4 5/16 in
Credit line: Gift of Barbara Donald
Description: Black silk twill (sateen) forked breeches with medium-width fall front; sufficient lap under the fall front was gained by adding extensions along the left and right sides of the opening, with a further horizontal extension along the base of the waistband for the lowest center front button and buttonhole; three-button center-front closing, with the lowest button doubling as the center button of a three-button fall; flat, self-covered buttons at the center-front , fall, pocket, and knee openings; four flat, self-covered buttons (left and right front, left and right back waistband), for suspenders; pocket welt in right front waistband; two pockets (one at each side of the fall) are concealed by panels that button to the waistband above the side seam; two pairs of eyelets with a natural linen tape lace flank the off-white, bias-cut linen gusset at center back of the waistband; center back seam is reinforced with off-white linen to the crotch; black silk is pieced or repaired at crotch; waistband is lined with off-white linen and interlined with coarse brown linen; the fall and the two panels covering the pockets are lined with glazed black twill wool; set-in pockets are made from half-circles of off-white linen, folded in half to make quarter-rounds; four flat buttons at each knee; the button sides of knee opening are faced with the turned-back edge of the black silk over off-white linen; buttonhole sides of knee openings are faced with black wool over off-white linen interfacings; each knee is finished with a long narrow tab extension on one side, corresponding to a buttonhole worked through the surface fabric but not through the off-white linen lining of the knee band; waistband, pocket welt in waistband, and knee-bands are edge-stitched; fall and panels concealing pockets are edge-stitched and top-stitched.
breeches
Collection: National Museum of American History
Object type: Breeches
Breeches; Lower Body; Main Dress; Male
Date made: 1795-1805
date made: 1775-1800
Measurements: waist (without gusset): 70 cm; x 27 9/16 in
overall length (at side): 75 cm; 29 1/2 in
fall width (straight, at top edge): 23.8 cm; x 9 3/8 in
fall width (straight, across base): 22.3 cm; x 8 3/4 in
fall height, at center seam: 12 cm; 4 3/4 in
waistband width, cb: 6.5 cm; 2 9/16 in
waistband width, side: 8 cm; 3 1/8 in
waistband width, cf: 8 cm; 3 1/8 in
Description: Breeches of tan wool in wide, corded-wale weave, with moderately narrow fall front; cut with moderately narrow (slightly greater than 90 degree) fork; fall was widened by adding pointed vertical strips to the left and right edges; three-button center-front closing, with the lowest button doubling as the center button of a three-button fall; flat brass with shank buttons at the center front and fall; breeches originally had four suspender buttons (left and right, front and back waistband), but now only one (bone, four-hole with recessed center) suspender button remains, at left front; pocket welt in right front waistband; two more pockets, one at each side of front, are covered by squared panels which fasten at the outer corner to a self-covered button on the waistband, just above the side seams; two pairs of worked eyelets with linen tape lacing flank the unbleached linen straight-of-grain gusset at center back of the waistband; waistband is lined with coarse unbleached linen; the fall and knee openings are lined, and the inserted pockets are made of a second type of coarse unbleached linen; set-in pockets are made from linen half-circles, folded in half to make quarter-rounds; the right pocket has been reinforced on the bottom edge with a third type of linen; the crotch was reinforced on the outside with a circular patch of heavily fulled wool; at each leg opening, there are one pair of ribbon ties, and four pearl with brass shank buttons, plus one covered button near the band, part way around the leg from the opening.