From: mark.taylor@enron.com
To: stager@erols.com
Date: 2000-09-01 18:34:00+00:00
Subject: BVI

I've chartered in the BVI a number of times and it is a great place to take 
beginners.  I only caught your post of yesterday so didn't see the earlier 
thread.  I'm assuming you're picking up the boat in Road Town or nearby.  The 
only problem with getting away from the dock by 12 or so is if the boat isn't 
quite ready.  I've always used the Moorings so they're the only outfit I 
know.  They don't usually let you get started on the boat until after the 
chart briefing which means you don't go aboard until 10.  If you use their 
provisioning service it eases that chore but sometimes the food isn't there 
right on time.  Having several people (but not too many) around this time is 
helpful to put food away, take inventory, attend boat briefing, etc.  Of 
course, if you get the boat the day before - maybe with a sleepaboard option 
or some such, you have that much more certainty that everything will be done 
on time.  Check with your charter company about attending the briefings 
before sending the last person off to the airport - some companies may 
require 2 people from your boat to attend.

As for first day - if you are away by 1 I suggest heading over to the Bight 
on Norman Island.  There are lots of moorings there and you'll get one as 
long as you're not in too late.  It shouldn't take more than a few hours to 
get there and if it looks like it might be close you can always fire up the 
engine.  There are a couple of places (a beach bar and a boat) to eat and 
drink there if you don't feel like cooking the first night and although you 
can't call it deserted or even secluded because of the number of boats there, 
there is at least very little ashore to bother you.  The caves are just 
around the corner and the Indians right outside for great snorkeling/diving 
either that afternoon or first thing the next day.

Whether you go clockwise or counterclockwise doesn't really matter.  My 
advice running roughly clockwise: 

skip Soppers Hole - just a commercial port with little of interest (unless 
you're clearing customs); 

skip the USVI - all the clearing out & in & out & in can take a lot of time 
and there's plenty to do in the BVI - if you just have to go, the northern 
shore of St. John is the best - nice anchorages (several of the 'secluded' 
variety) without the crime on St. Thomas and the resort at Caneel Bay will 
let you come ashore for a fancy dinner (but make reservations and leave your 
trash on board - there's nowhere to put it); 

Jost van Dyke is fun - anchor in Great Harbor or pick up a mooring in Little 
Harbor - Sydney's Peace & Love restaurant in Little Harbor still has an honor 
bar where you mix your own drinks & just keep track in his little black book 
while you're waiting for dinner, Foxie's in Great Harbor is a classic beach 
bar/rest. - lots of fun and good food & drinks;  

Sandy Cay is everyone's image of a desert island and perfect for a lunch stop 
and a swim; 

don't miss Cane Garden Bay (unless the northerly swell is too heavy) there's 
a wonderful swath of pure white beach with palm trees swaying overhead and 
steel drum bands serenade you into the evening - watch the reefs but the 
channel in is well marked; 

if there's a full moon be sure to be on Tortola somewhere that night (Cane 
Garden works fine) to get to Bomba's Shack for the party - there are lots of 
taxis there as the evening progresses to get you back; 

it's easy to pick people up (or drop them off) at the airport (close to the 
water with a dinghy dock) midweek if you need to and kind of fun to be met 
that way; 

the Baths are a must but VERY crowded (no anchoring allowed - must use a 
mooring) so I'd try to get there as early in the day as possible (Cooper 
Island, Marina Cay and area by Last Resort are nearby for the night before) - 
maybe get up early, motor or sail over and have breakfast once you're safely 
moored - and be careful to use the right color mooring and avoid the ones 
reserved for commercial craft;  

I usually skip Spanish Town (Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor) since I'd rather be 
at anchor than stuck in a marina slip with no breeze, but if you stay there 
you can get a taxi to the Baths and top off with water in case your crew is 
not serious enough about fresh water conservation (and what crew ever is?); 

the Bitter End is great for a long hot shower (I think you pay at the resort 
front desk) and maybe a 'fancy' dinner and there is also a water dock there 
(10 cents a gal.?).   

Sometimes it seems like the distances are so short you don't get to sail 
enough - you shouldn't have any trouble getting a lot in (but you won't be 
able to see everything).  The only difficulty might be if you need to get the 
boat back in for an early flight but I've let people out at Cane Garden Bay 
to take a taxi to the early flight & then sailed around to have the boat back 
well before noon.  Having said that, I suggest Cooper Island or the Bight for 
your last night - it just makes that last morning a bit more leisurely.   And 
just as I mentioned for the first night, it makes sense to get into most 
anchorages early rather than late so you're sure to get a mooring (in those 
that have them) and don't have to worry about finding a spot for the boat - 
many of them can get quite crowded.  Of course, if you're going anytime 
between now and Thanksgiving there shouldn't be any trouble with crowds - 
just pay daily, close attention to the weather forecasts!

Don't expect much in the way of night life but there are places to eat at 
nearly every anchorage - many are closed in the low season.  A few of the 
islands have some good hiking but there's not much for the sight seers 
either.  But snorkeling and diving are everywhere.  Ask at your chart 
briefing for the best spots these days.  If you have divers along, don't miss 
the wreck of the Rhone - you can have a dive boat come and meet you there and 
bring along equipment and a guide for the divers.  The cruising guide will 
have lots of info on all these issues.

Wish I was going - it's always a blast!