Kautokeino

Kautokeino is a municipality in Troms og Finnmark county, Norway. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino. Other villages include Láhpoluoppal and Máze.
The municipality is the largest by area out of the 356 municipalities in Norway. Kautokeino is the 235th most populous municipality in Norway with a population of 2,877. The municipality's population density is and its population has decreased by 1.7% over the previous 10-year period.
Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino is one of two cultural centers of Northern Sápmi today (the other being Kárášjohka-Karasjok). The most significant industries are reindeer herding, theatre/movie industry, and the public education system. Kautokeino is one of the coldest places in the Nordics.
General information
The municipality of Kautokeino was established in 1851 when the southern part of the old Kistrand municipality was separated to form this new municipality. Initially, there were 869 residents in the new municipality. The municipal boundaries have not changed since that time.
On 1 January 2020, the municipality became part of the newly formed Troms og Finnmark county. Previously, it had been part of the old Finnmark county.
Name
The first element in Guovdageaidnu is guovda which means "middle" or "half" and the last element is geaidnu which means "road". Combined it means "half way", since the location is halfway between two traditional migrating points. It is also the geographic centre of Northern Sápmi. Kautokeino is a Finnicized form of the Sámi name Guovdageaidnu, and it is also used by Norwegians.
The name of the municipality was Kautokeino until 1987 when it was changed to Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino. It was the first municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. In 2005, the name was again changed, such that either Guovdageaidnu or Kautokeino can be used.
Coat of arms
The coat of arms was granted on 4 September 1987. The official blazon is "Azure, a lavvo Or". This means the arms have a blue field (background) and the charge is a lavvo (also spelled lavvu). The lavvo has a tincture of Or which means it is commonly colored yellow, but if it is made out of metal, then gold is used. The lavvu (often spelled as 'lavvo') is still in use by reindeer herders who follow their herds according to the season and food availability of food for the animals, and so it was chosen as the symbol for the municipality. The arms were designed by Arvid Sveen.
History
The ice age
The area where the Kautokeino settlement is located became ice-free approximately 10,500 years ago after the last Ice age. The northern part of today's Kautokeino municipality became ice-free first, approximately 500–800 years before the area where the settlement of Kautokeino is located today. The ice edge retreated south before disappearing completely from Fennoscania 9,600 years ago, most recently in Sarek in Sweden.
The Stone Age
In Kautokeino there are traces of human activity stretching back 7,000–9,000 years. The people entering the Kautokeino area when the ice retreated has belonged to one of the three main genetic groups in the postglacial period of early Europe; Eastern Hunter-Gatherers ,Western Hunter-Gatherers or the Scandinavian Hunter-Gatherers. At Kautokeino church, arrowheads have been found where the dating extends over a large period of time. The oldest arrowheads date to 5000–7000 BC, while the youngest date to 1000–000 BC. In 2020, the University of Tromsø conducted archaeological excavations at Gáidnomanjávri I Kautokeino, approximately 300 meters northeast of the church. There, among other things, burnt bone remains were found, the oldest of which were dated to 4846-5009 BC.
In Juntevađđa, about 10 kilometers north of Kautokeino, archaeological excavations were carried out in 2018. The results from the samples show that there has been human activity in the area which has been dated back to 5560–5520 BC, mesolithic period. Among other things, bone remains of reindeer were identified.
The Iron Age
Junttevađđa has traces of human activity spanning a long period of time. In 1967, the archaeologist Povl Simonsen excavated at Junttevađđa, where he uncovered a total of 10 stone piles that lay in a row at intervals of between 5 and 13 metres. He found layers of charcoal in the stone piles, and thought these were fire pits. These stone piles are dated to approximately AD 1050. However, later research has concluded that it is not fire pits, but solid hearths associated with tent settlements that have been used by the Sami population.
1550–1751
Until 1751, Kautokeino was part of Sweden.
In 1695, Kautokeino was part of a [common district,] fellesdistriktet - which consisted of Kautokeino and Ávjovárre. The same year, the size of the population of fellesdistriktet was recorded as 36 families (recorded by the census performed by tax authorities, and that has later been estimated to likely indicate around 150–200 persons in fellesdistriktet).
From 1553, Gustav Vasa's bailiffs began systematic taxation of the Sami in the Kautokeino area. There are tax lists from 1553 to 1608, except for the year 1565. In addition, there is an overview of the population and accounting list for 1553. Peter Lorenz Smith writes in the book Kautokeino og Kautokeino lappene: a historical and ergological regional study from 1938 that the "lapp village" in Kautokeino had 8 people in the tax man count in 1553. Today, the term siida is used for what Smith called "lapp village". He further estimates the total population of the Kautokeino siida to 48 people based on an assumption of 6 people per household. In the Swedish tax accounts from 1553, Kautokeino is called the town of Kwothekyla. Smith believes it may be a combination of the words goahti (Sami for a large tent) and kylla(sic) (kylä, Finnish for hamlet). The siida was located on Goahtedievva, which is near today's Kautokeino church. Findings from the Stone Age to our time show that the area has been influenced by human activity for 9,000 years.
In addition to the siida in Kautokeino, there was also a siida at Lahpojávri within today's Kautokeino municipality. In 1553 there were 6 people in the tax census and with Smith's assumption of 6 people per household a population of 36 people.
The first priest to hold a service in Kautokeino was Johannes Torneaus from Övertorneå. This happened in 1641. The service was held in a small log cabin that had just been set up. It is said to have been Kautokeino's first wooden building. Today, the rest of this log cabin is preserved in the Kautokeino museum.
The first resident priest was Swedish Amund Isaksen Curtelius. He wintered in Masi from 1674 to 1675. He was succeeded by Johan Tornberg. In 1682 he was again succeeded by his brother, Anders Nicolai Tornensis. Tornensis had a vicarage built in Kautokeino, and started construction of Kautokeino's old church in 1701. The church was consecrated on 11 February 1703, and was named "St. Charles' Church". The old Kautokeino church was consecrated as a church for 241 years and 296 days before it was burned down by the German occupation forces on 3 December 1944, and was then Finnmark's oldest Protestant church.
There is little written source material about Kautokeino from before around 1550.
1752–1940
In 1845, measurements were made for Struve Geodetic Arc at the mountain tops of Lodiken (Luvdiidcohkka) and Bealjasvarri in Kautokeino.
In 1852, Kautokeino was the site of a Sami uprising against representatives of the Norwegian authorities. This was one of the few violent reactions by the Sami against the exploitation policies of the Norwegian government and was the only known confrontation between Samis and Norwegians with loss of human lives.
Referendum on the dissolution of the union in 1905
In Kautokeino, 100% of those who voted in the referendum were in favour of Norway being a kingdom after the dissolution of the union with Sweden. Kautokeino was one of 2 municipalities in Norway where 100% voted for the kingdom.
The Otto von Rosen affair
Between 15 and 20 January 1917, the Swedish Baron Otto von Rosen was arrested in what is now the Kautokeino municipality or in today's Karasjok municipality, near the border with Finland. He was suspected of espionage. He was sent to Kristiania (now Oslo) and released in February 1917 without conviction but expelled to Sweden. It turned out that when his luggage was searched, it contained spy equipment and a sugar cube containing anthrax bacteria. This was confirmed by analysis 80 years later. Otto von Rosen had been mentioned in newspapers for suspicious activity in the Karesuando area earlier in January, and was then suspected of being a German spy. Finland in 1917 was part of the Russian Empire and at war with Germany. The distance between Karesuando and Kautokeino is approximately 70 kilometers in a straight line.
The Spanish flu 1919
Kautokeino was severely affected by a wave of the Spanish flu in January 1919; that month, 24 people died in the municipality, corresponding to 2.2% of the population. In 1920, Kautokeino had a population of 979 people.
Telephone to Kautokeino
Kautokeino was connected to the country's telephone network in October 1919 when the telephone line to Alta was completed.
Crown Prince couple visits Kautokeino
On Tuesday, 27 March 1934, Crown Prince Olav and Crown Princess Märtha arrived in Kautokeino. The Crown Prince couple stayed in Kautokeino until Thursday, 29 March (Maundy Thursday), before continuing to Karasjok. In Kautokeino, the royal couple was greeted by 80 children who sang three songs in Sami to honor their arrival. On Maundy Thursday, the Crown Prince couple attended a service at Kautokeino Old Church from 1701 before departing further to Karasjok.
Nomadic life
Adolf Steen writes in his book Kautokeino Studies that in the 1930s there was one winter house in the eastern mountains, which means that the vast majority of reindeer-herding Sami still lived in lavvu (traditional Sami tents) and gamme (turf huts) all year round.
World War 2
1940–1943
During the war at the Narvik front in the spring of 1940, four soldiers from Kautokeino took part; they belonged to the Alta Battalion.
In August 1940, four German soldiers came to Kautokeino by riverboat; they were the first German soldiers on the scene. They traveled again, and there was no permanent German presence in Kautokeino until the winter of 1941. Then they requisitioned the boarding school for accommodation.
A Serbian prisoner of war named Bora Ivankovic was arrested by the Germans in autumn 1942 and executed in Kautokeino. Together with Petar Filipovic, he had managed to escape from the prison camp in Karasjok. After 28 days on the run, Petar Filipovic managed to get into Sweden.
In 1942, the Germans planned to build a railway line through Kautokeino municipality. The line was to go via Reisadalen to Kautokeino and on to Karasjok. The railway was part of the German Polar Railway, which was planned to run all the way from Fauske to Kirkenes. The plan was stated in 1943.
In 1943, the Germans built a field airport with a runway of 1,200 meters in Kautokeino. At the end of the runway there is still the wreckage of a German Junkers Ju 52.
1944
The Sámi author Odd Mathis Hætta writes in the book Samebygder på Finnmarksvidda 2 about 3 Serbian prisoners who had escaped from a prison camp and who were surprised and taken by the Germans and executed. This happened at Áidejávri, 30 kilometers south of Kautokeino in August 1944. The bodies were dug up and transported to Kautokeino by Norwegian soldiers in the spring of 1945. It is likely that they were not Serbian prisoners but from another nationality, this since the Serbian prisoners were held captive in Karasjok from 23 July 1942 to 15 December 1942, and this incident happened two years later.
A German Focke-Wulf Fw 189 reconnaissance aircraft made an emergency landing on 15 October 1944 at Flyvarjávri 13 kilometers south of Kautokeino. The water was named Flyvarjávri as a result of the accident, which means "plane lake" in Sámi.
In the autumn of 1944, the German 139th Mountain Brigade was stationed in and around Kautokeino. The force consisted of approximately 5,000 soldiers and had arrived in the Kautokeino area no later than 29 October 1944. The 139th Mountain Brigade was formed on 5 June 1944 from the remnants of the 139th Mountain Regiment from the 3rd Mountain Division. The commander of the brigade in the Kautokeino area was Colonel Schirmbacker. He was on loan from the 6th SS Gebirgsjäger division. Incidentally, the 139th Mountain Regiment was the German unit that was about to be defeated by Norwegian forces at Bjørnfjell in June 1940, during the battles of Narvik before Norway had to capitulate when the Allies withdrew. Alta Battalion, where soldiers from Kautokeino also participated, were among the Norwegian units that took part in the battles at Bjørnfjell. The Austrian soldier Toni Russold took part in the battle against the Alta battalion in Narvik in 1940, and was part of the force that made up the flank protection in Kautokeino in the autumn of 1944.
The brigade's mission in Kautokeino in the autumn of 1944 was to form the flank protection for the Sturmbock-Stellung line which ran across the Finnish wedge north of Karesuando. The Germans set up positions in Kautokeino due to concerns about a potential Allied landing at Hammerfest and a subsequent assault through Alta, moving directly south towards Finland across the Finnmarksvidda. Their objective woukld be to intercept the 20th Mountain Army's 18th Army Corps during their retreat from Finland through the Finnish wedge. Additionally, they aimed to prevent Finnish or, in the worst-case scenario, Russian forces from circumventing the Strumbuck-Stellung line in Karesuando, which would allow them to breach the German positions and proceed towards Lyngen in Norway. South and southwest of Kautokeino, defensive positions were established at Máttavárri, Joppevárri, Áddjit, Gálggovárri and Junkkavárri. The last German soldiers withdrew from the position in Kautokeino on 3 January 1945. The route they followed was a makeshift cart road that went south-west from Kautokeino to Goathteluoppal, on to Hirvas in Finland and finally the road through the Finnish wedge to Skibotn in Norway. In June 2022, shells were found in the area around the German positions from 1944 at Máttavárri, 5 kilometers south of Kautokeino. In the autumn of 1941, only 100 of the 2,000 soldiers were left from the 139th Mountain Regiment of those who had taken part in the campaign in Narvik, in that sense Toni Russold's period in the regiment and the brigade, from the campaign in Narvik all the way to Kautokeino in the autumn of 1944, must have been one of the longest.
On 23 October 1944, a meeting was held in Kautokeino with representatives of the Germans, the Nazi police, police chief Hoem and representatives of Kautokeino municipality. The municipality reached an agreement with the Nazis and the Germans that the population of Kautokeino together with the large herds of reindeer should evacuate to the Helligskogen in Troms and meet the Germans there. The Germans wanted to take control of the reindeer herds because it constituted a large food reserve for the Germans, they wanted to prevent the Allies from getting hold of this food reserve, and because they feared that Soviet red army could use driving reindeer for transport, in a similar way to reindeer had been used for transport on the Murmansk front. The agreement was announced to the population in Norwegian. However, the verbal order to the population was given in Sámi and there the population was asked to evacuate to Helligskogen at Anarjohka in the east. Police Chief Hoem was aware that the oral order in Sámi was different from the written order in Norwegian. The population had to leave Kautokeino by 30 November 1944. The result was that the population listened to the oral order in Sámi and failed to evacuate to the Helligskogen in Troms, instead they escaped to the Finnmarksvidda and spread out over a large area. The Germans missed out on the meat reserve that the reindeer herds would have represented, and the population avoided forced evacuation. Of Kautokeino's 1,330 inhabitants, 47 were forcibly evacuated south. The fate of two women who fell ill and were forcibly evacuated south is still unknown.
Kautokeino was burned down by retreating German forces. The Germans began the burning of the Kautokeino church site on 20 November 1944, and the burning was completed in the first week of December. Of 220 buildings, 168 were burned, including the old Kautokeino church from 1701, which was burned on 3 December 1944.
After world war 2
1945-1949
On Tuesday, 5 February 1946, Finnmarksposten reports that tests with American track vehicles have been done on the stretch between Alta and Kautokeino, showing that they can cover the distance in 5 hours, compared to reindeer pulling pulks that take 3 days for the same distance.
On Monday, 11 November 1946, the newspaper Tromsø reports that the Swedish "nomad school inspector" Israel Roung has applied for a 4-week study stay in Kautokeino to study the Sami language.
On 25 January 1948 the reconstruction administration's barracks burn down to the ground. The building was around 300 square meters and had been brought to Kautokeino from Sweden after the war. The sheriff's office had been located in the barracks but had just moved out.
In January and December 1948, reports are made about wolf packs of up to 30 animals killing reindeer and scattering reindeer herds in areas south of Kautokeino. A wolf attack is reported between Áidejávri and Oskal, about 20-30 kilometers from Kautokeino, killing 30-40 reindeer in January, and wolf attacks in the same area again in December.
In January 1949, the Ministry of Transport and Communications grants 280,000 kroner for the construction of Kautokeino guesthouse. 280,000 kroner in 1949 equals 6.7 million kroner in 2022.
On Saturday, 30 July 1949, the permanent bridge over Kautokeino River in Kautokeino city center is opened for traffic.
1950-1959
On 1 February 1951, Nord-Norsk Hotelldrift takes over the operation of Kautokeino Guesthouse. The guesthouse has 17 rooms and 48 beds. There is no running water in the guest rooms, and heating is done with wood and coke. It is financed by the state. The guesthouse was completed in late 1950.
The National Home Industry School for Sami, later the Sami Upper Secondary School and Reindeer Herding School, opens in Kautokeino in 1952.
On 3 September 1952, a Widerøe Norseman plane is wrecked during landing at Gávdnjajávri inside today's Ánarjohka National Park. All four people on board escape unharmed, but the plane is completely destroyed. The plane was on assignment for the intelligence service to deliver military equipment to a depot to be used in the event of Norway being attacked by the Soviet Union.
Čábardasjohka power plant opens on 15 December 1953 with a capacity of 150 kW. The power plant supplies 400-500 subscribers.
On Sunday, 28 March 1954, the first official reindeer race is organized in Kautokeino. The event takes place in connection with the Norwegian Reindeer Herders' National Association holding its national meeting in the village. The track was about 2 km long and went downstream from the bridge and back. The winner of the competition was Karen Anne Kemi.
The Royal Norwegian Air Force station in Kautokeino is established in March 1955.
On Friday, 22 February 1957, the reindeer slaughterhouse in Kautokeino opens.
The film Same Jakki by Per Høst, which is partly filmed in Kautokeino and is about a family from Kautokeino, premieres on Thursday, 21 March 1957.
Kautokeino Church is inaugurated on Sunday, 28 September 1958.
On Thursday, 23 July 1959, King Olav V visits Kautokeino. It is the first time a Norwegian king visits the village. In the newspaper Drammens Tidende of 24 July, there is a picture of the king greeting 97-year-old Marit Hætta during the king's visit to the old-age home.
Juhls' silver gallery is established in Kautokeino in 1959 by Frank and Regine Juhls. Regine Juhls is originally from East Prussia, while Frank Juhls was from Denmark.
1960-1969
The road from Tangen Bru in Alta via Kløfta to Suolovuopmi is put into operation on Saturday, 22 October 1960 This stretch is an all-year road and replaces the road over Bæskades, which has been closed during winter.
The road up to the Finnish border is opened for traffic on Tuesday, 8 November 1960. The last 1.7 km up to the border is still of poor quality, but the road is passable for car traffic. Large parts of the road (37 km of 42 km) are financed by Kautokeino municipality through the municipal budget and through loans the municipality has taken up in the municipal bank.
The tuberculosis epidemic in Kautokeino, which has resulted in 45 confirmed tuberculosis cases since 1958, comes under control in 1961. Comprehensive and systematic X-ray screening of the population and vaccination help stop the spread. The epidemic in Kautokeino is described as the most extensive tuberculosis epidemic in Norway in the last 60 years.
On Sunday, 30 December 1962, Kautokeino guesthouse burns down to the ground. No people are injured.
The population of the municipality exceeds 2000, with 2063 inhabitants as of 1 January 1963.
Guovdageainnu Sámi Searvi is established on 1 December 1963. Aslak Loso is elected as the chairman of the local association.
On 2 December 1963, the power line from Nord-Troms to Kautokeino opens and the power supply becomes more stable with the power supply from Kildalen power plant in addition to the Čábardasjohka power plant. The power supply to Kautokeino has been unstable with power rationing at times, this since the power production from Čábardašjohka has not been sufficient to cover the consumption in Kautokeino.
In June 1965, several newspapers report that a muskrat was shot for the first time in Norway at Gálanitu 13 km southwest of Kautokeino
On Thursday, 11 November 1965, the all-year road between Alta and Kautokeino opens. The road will not be officially opened until later and some additional work still remains, but the road is passable in winter, giving Kautokeino an all-year road connection to Alta.
The tourist hotel in Kautokeino opens in July 1966. The hotel has 100 beds and costs 5 million kroner in 1966, equivalent to 59 million kroner in 2022.
In the midst of the cloudberry season in 1967, a sudden bout of treacherous weather struck the mountains, catching many people off guard. On 6 August, two cloudberry pickers were reported missing in Finnmarksvidda. A 60-year-old woman from Tromsø disappeared in the Suolovuopmi area, 70 kilometers north of Kautokeino, while a 75-year-old man from Alta vanished west of Oskal, twenty kilometers south of Kautokeino.The situation worsened on the night of 7 August, when the region experienced severe weather, leading to 42 mm of precipitation in Kautokeino. An extensive search operation was launched to locate the missing individuals. Tragically, the woman was found deceased on 11 August, while the man remained undiscovered until two years later, in August 1969.
The car and construction road from Kautokeino to Biedjovággi starts at the end of June-July 1968 and opens for car traffic later in the year.
Saturday, 19 April 1969, Crown Princess Sonja and Crown Prince Harald visit Kautokeino. They arrive from Karasjok, partly by snowmobile, snowmobile-driving, and the final stretch by helicopter. On Sunday, 20 April, they attend a church service in Kautokeino Church, before visiting the mining area in Biedjovággi, 40 kilometeres north of Kautokeino, which is under construction.
1970-1979
Biedjovággi mines open their first operating period in 1970.
Kautokeino Easter Festival is organized for the first time in Kautokeino in 1971
The Nordic Sami Institute is established in 1973 and placed in Kautokeino.
On Monday, 25 November 1974, a referendum is held on whether it should be legal to sell beer in stores in Kautokeino. 393 vote against and 192 voted yes. Approximately 40% of eligible voters cast their vote.
Biedjovággi mines close for the first time due to low copper prices in 1975.
Kautokeino municipal council opposes the development plans for the Alta-Kautokeino watershed when the issue was discussed in the municipal council on 19 January 1976.
The Kautokeino School Board decides to maintain the joik ban in the school, which was adopted in 1953.
On 1 November 1976, national road 92 between Karasjok and Kautokeino is opened for car traffic on the last remaining section; thus reducing the shortest car route between the two places from 378 kilometers to 146 kilometers.
The Sámi Education Council is established in 1977 and the secretariat is placed in Kautokeino.
On 30 November 1978, the Storting (Norwegian Parliament) decides to develop the Kautokeino-Alta watershed. This led to major protests and is later known as the opposition to the development of the Kautokeino-Alta watershed. The investment cost estimate was 600 million Norwegian kroner, corresponding to 3,1 billion Norwegian kroner in 2023.
1980-1989
On Monday, 16 February 1981, a torchlight procession is organized in Kautokeino under the auspices of the People's Campaign against the development of the Alta-Kautokeino watershed. About 250 people participate in the torchlight procession. Counter-demonstrators try to prevent the torchlight procession by blocking the road with cars and throwing a smoke bomb into the procession. No people are harmed, and no further confrontations occur between the groups.
On Tuesday, 3 March 1981, the municipal council decides to give equal status to Guovdageaidnu and Kautokeino as place names. Previously, the name has only been Kautokeino. The majority in the municipal council is as narrow as possible with 10 votes against 9. The minority argued that the official name should still be Kautokeino, but that the use of Sámi place names in the municipality would be allowed.
The new cultural center and environmental building will be opened on Saturday, 13 June 1981. The building houses a cinema/theater hall, the public library in Kautokeino, the Nordic Sami Institute, and the Sami Education Council.The building cost a total of 18 million kroner in 1981, equivalent to 68 million in 2022.
Beaivváš Sámi Našunálateáhter is established in Kautokeino in 1981 and is located in the new cultural center and environmental building.
The new reindeer slaughterhouse will be opened on Friday, 11 December 1981, by Minister of Agriculture Johan C. Løken. The slaughterhouse cost 32 million in 1981, equivalent to 120 million kroner in 2022.
In February 1982, a unanimous Supreme Court concludes that the development decision regarding the development of the Kautokeino-Alta river system is valid.
The Finnish industrial company Outokumpu Oy opens the second operating period of the Biedjovággi mines in 1985.
Alta power plant, where the reservoir is Virdnejávri in Kautokeino municipality, is opened in 1987.
On 1 January 1988, the operations center at the Air Force Station in Kautokeino is closed. The number of employees is reduced from 63 to 21. The number of conscript soldiers in Kautokeino has been about 40 people, so the station has consisted of about 100 people in total before the reorganization. The Armed Forces move out of the buildings in Kautokeino city center. The buildings are later taken over by the Sami University College.
Ellen Inga O. Hætta becomes Kautokeino's first female mayor in 1988.
Ole Henrik Magga from Kautokeino becomes the first Sami Parliament President in Norway after the first Sami Parlament election in September 1989.
Sami University College opens on 1 November 1989.
1990-1999
Sami Grand Prix is held for the first time in Kautokeino in 1990.
On Thursday, 11 October 1990, a Bell 206 JetRanger with two people on board crashed about 2 miles west of Suolovuopmi in Kautokeino municipality. Both people on board died in the crash. The helicopter was on its way from Kvænangen to Masi.
Biedjovággi mines shut down for the second time on 20 September 1991. 110 people lose their jobs, 50 people associated with the mine itself and the rest employees of subcontractors. During the second operating period from 1985 to 1991, a total of 24,000 tonnes of copper and 6,000 kg of gold were extracted from the Biedjovággi mines. For comparison, 40,000 tonnes of copper were extracted from the Nye Storwartz mines in Røros during the operating period that extended from 1708 to 1947.
The population of the municipality exceeds 3,000, with 3,011 inhabitants as of 1 January 1992.
On Friday, 7 August 1992, King Harald and Queen Sonja visit Kautokeino during their consecration tour in Northern Norway. The royal couple arrives by helicopter and stays in Kautokeino for about 3 hours.
Báktehárji multi-purpose hall opens in November 1992.
Nobel Peace Prize winner Rigoberto Menchu Tum visits Kautokeino in December and participates in a church service on Sunday, 13 December 1992. She is invited by Sami Parliament President Ole Herik Magga.
On Thursday, 28 October 1993, beer is available for purchase over the counter in Kautokeino for the first time in over 20 years when the new beer outlet opens.
Spring hunting for ducks is opened in Kautokeino in 1994, initially as a three-year trial arrangement.The arrangement is later continued. Spring duck hunting has traditions in Kautokeino.
The Air Force's Kautokeino station is closed as a separate unit on 1 August 1995 and is placed under the 131st Air Wing Sørreisa. The number of employees is reduced from 21 to 13, and there are no longer conscript soldiers in Kautokeino; there were 5 conscript soldiers in Kautokeino when the station closed down.
The Dalai Lama visits Kautokeino during Pentecost 1996. He leaves Kautokeino on the second day of Pentecost, 27 May 1996. In Kautokeino, he meets the Sami Parliament presidents of Norway (Ole Henrik Magga), Sweden (Ingwar Åhren), and Finland (Pekka Aikio). In a joint statement, the three Sami parliaments condemn China's human rights violations against the Tibetan people, stating that Tibet is an occupied country and that China's occupation.
The peak number of inhabitants in the municipality as of 1 January 1997, with 3,176 inhabitants.
On Sunday, 6 April 1997, Børre Knudsen is "ordained as a bishop" in Strandebarm deanery. The ordination takes place in Kautokeino Church and is highly controversial. Parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo in Kautokeino supports Børre Knudsen in the conflict with the Norwegian Church. The dispute revolves around views on abortion and homosexuality, where Børre Knudsen is supported by parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo in the opinion that the Norwegian Church has a too liberal view on these issues.
On Friday, 2 July 1998, Church Minister Jon Lilletun decides to file a dismissal case against parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo due to the conflict between the parish priest and Bishop Ola Steinholt. Olav Berg Lyngmo has, among other things, not accepted the bishop as his spiritual leader.
On Saturday, 9 October 1999, Hættas landhandel closes its doors for the last time. The store reopens as Rema 1000 in December of the same year.
2000 to present
2000-2009
On Friday, 21 January 2000, the verdict is given in the case where the state has filed a lawsuit to have parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo dismissed. The state loses the case in the district court, and the parish priest keeps his job. Newly appointed Church Minister Trond Giske decides on 21 March that the state will appeal the verdict where parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo is allowed to keep his job as parish priest in Kautokeino.
On Thursday, 7 September 2000, the new health center in Kautokeino is officially opened. The health center cost 50 million kroner in 2000, equivalent to 81 million kroner in 2022.
On Friday, 12 January 2001, the verdict is given in the Court of Appeals where the state has appealed the district court's decision that parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo can keep his job. The state wins the appeal case. The verdict in the Court of Appeals is unanimous, and the parish priest is stripped of his job and must additionally pay his own and the state's legal costs in the appellate court..
At the end of May 2001, it becomes clear that the Supreme Court Appeals Selection Committee rejects the appeal from parish priest Olav Berg Lyngmo, so the dismissal verdict where he is stripped of his office as parish priest becomes final and legally binding.
Mail in Store opens on Monday, 3 June 2002, in Coop Prix's premises. The post office is closed.
On 5 December 2002, the wine monopoly opens in Kautokeino.
Nordlandia hotel in Kautokeino burns down on 15 July 2003 and is completely destroyed. No persons were hurt in the fire.
The population of the municipality falls again below 3,000, with 2,997 inhabitants as of 1 January 2005
King Harald lays the foundation stone for the Sami Science Building / Diehtosiida in 2007.
Thon opens a new hotel in Kautokeino in 2008.
The Sami College moves into a new building, Diehtosiida in 2009.
2010-2019
On 16 December 2013, the municipal council rejected with 10 votes against 9 an application from the Swedish company Arctic Gold for permission to carry out a consequence assessment for mining in Biedjovággi.
In August 2016, the third Sápmi Pride LGBT festival was moved to Kautokeino to protest that the local church council refused to wed gays and lesbians in its church, and to protest that the lead priest for the parish said that homosexuality is something that people can rid themselves of.
2020-onwards
In 2021, construction begins for a new elementary and secondary school. Budget of 207 million. Gross area approx. 6,000 m². Taken over by Kautokeino municipality on 16 January 2023. On 16 February, students and teachers move in.
In 2022, construction begins for a new joint building for Beaivváš Sámi Našunálateáhter and the Sami High School and Reindeer Herding School. Budget of 485 million. Gross area approx. 7,000 m². Moving in on 1 August 2024.
The new elementary and secondary school is officially opened by Crown Prince Haakon on 18 April 2023.
In April 2023, the government adopts a new regulation concerning spring hunting of ducks in Kautokeino. The quota is set at 500 ducks, with species such as the tufted duck, common goldeneye, red-breasted merganser, and common merganser being huntable, and the hunting period is set to last 15 days between 5 May and 6 June. In connection with the announcement of the regulation, Minister of Climate and Environment Espen Barth Eide states that spring duck hunting has been important in Sami tradition for gaining access to food after winter.
Churches
The Church of Norway has one parish within the municipality of Kautokeino. It is part of the Indre Finnmark prosti (deanery) in the Diocese of Nord-Hålogaland.
Government
All municipalities in Norway, including Kautokeino, are responsible for primary education (through 10th grade), outpatient health services, senior citizen services, unemployment and other social services, zoning, economic development, and municipal roads. The municipality is governed by a municipal council of elected representatives, which in turn elect a mayor. The municipality falls under the Indre Finnmark District Court and the Hålogaland Court of Appeal.
Municipal council
The municipal council of Kautokeino is made up of 19 representatives that are elected to four year terms. The party breakdown of the council is as follows:
Mayors
The mayors of Kautokeino:
1853-1857: Frederik Waldermar Hvoslef
1857-1859: Andreas Edevard Berger
1859-1861: Ole Isaksen Hætta
1861-1867: Carl Adolph Moe
1867-1869: Ole Isaksen Hætta
1869-1871: Ludvig Kristoffer Olavius Strømme
1871-1873: Morten Clemetsen
1873-1875: Ole Andreas Johannessen
1875-1877: Morten Clemetsen
1877-1879: Ole Andreas Johannessen
1879-1881: L. Larsen
1881-1888: Georg Karelius Nordrum
1888-1900: Henrik Pentha
1900-1904: Johannes Mathisen Hætta
1917-1922: Peter Lorenz de Ferry Smith
1923-1934: Lyder Aarseth
1935-1940: Ludvig Johan Madsen
1941-1945: Morten M. Klemetsen
1946-1947: Jan K. Lund
1948-1955: Alfred Larsen
1956–1963: Arvid Dahl (V)
1964-1969: Lauri Abiel Keskitalo (H)
1970-1971: Oddmund Sandvik
1972-1973: Lauri Abiel Keskitalo (H)
1974-1975: Oddmund Sandvik
1976-1977: Mathis Mathisen Sara (LL)
1978–1979: Klemet O. Hætta (H)
1980–1981: Ole Henrik Buljo (Sp)
1982–1983: Klemet O. Hætta (H)
1984–1987: Ole Henrik Buljo (Sp)
1988–1991: Ellen Inga O. Hætta (H)
1992–1993: Ole Henrik Buljo (Sp)
1994–1999: Anton Dahl (V)
1999–2003: Jan Ole Buljo (Sp)
2003–2015: Klemet Erland Hætta (SáB)
2015-2019: Johan Vasara (Ap)
2019–present: Hans Isak Olsen (LL)
Geography
Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino is the southernmost municipality of Finnmark county and it shares a border with several municipalities: Alta Municipality to the north, Kárášjohka - Karasjok Municipality to the east, Nordreisa Municipality and Kvænangen Municipality (in Troms county) to the west, and Enontekiö Municipality (in Finland) to the south.
At , it is the largest municipality in Norway. A total of approximately 10,000 lakes cover . A significant part of the Finnmarksvidda plateau is located inside Kautokeino municipality. Anárjohka National Park is partially located in the municipality. The rivers Anarjohka and Karasjohka have their headwaters inside the park.
The Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino River runs from a lake at the Finnish border, north through the villages of Guovdageaidnu (Kautokeino) and Máze before it leaves into Alta municipality and changes name to Altaelva. The river is collectively known as the Kautokeino/Alta-vassdraget and was the site of a major political controversy in the late 1970s and early 1980s. The lake Šuoikkatjávri is located on the border of the municipality with Kvænangen. Other lakes in the municipality include Bajášjávri, Bajit Spielgajávri, Biggejávri, Čárajávri, Dátkojávri, Gahččanjávri, Gavdnjajávri, Geađgejávri, Geašjávri, Guolehis Suolojávri, Heammojávri, Iešjávri, Láhpojávri, Latnetjávri, Nuorbejávri, Rágesjávri, Sálganjávri, Soagŋojávri, Stuora Galbajávri, Stuorajávri, Šuoikkatjávri, Suolojávri, Virdnejávri, and Vuolit Spielgajávri.
Climate
Kautokeino has a subarctic climate (Dfc) with cool to mild summers and long, cold and fairly dry winters. Kautokeino is the coldest town in mainland Norway by annual mean temperature. The all-time low was recorded in January 1999. The all-time high was recorded in July 2018, which was the warmest month recorded with mean and average daily high . The coldest month on record is, as for much of Norway, February 1966. That month Kautokeino had mean , average daily high , average daily low - and the warmest high that February was .
Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino is located in the Arctic highlands of the Finnmarksvidda plateau of Northern Norway. During five weeks of summer, the sun doesn't set, and during six weeks of winter, the sun doesn't rise.
Average precipitation ranges from to per year depending on normal period, which is among the lowest amounts in Norway.
During summer, daytime temperatures typically range between and . While this is nice for humans, the temperature, combined with 10,000 lakes, makes it a haven for mosquitos. Consequently, both humans and reindeer tend to flee to the coast for the summer. The average date for the last overnight freeze (low below ) in spring is 31 May and average date for first freeze in autumn is 19 August giving an average frost-free season of 79 days (1981-2010 average).
While winter usually lasts from mid-October until well into April, the hard winter is only for December–February. During hard winter, temperatures can drop as far as and beyond.
Birdlife
Lying south in the county, and bordering with Finland, Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino has a very interesting birdlife. There are virtually thousands of lakes in the municipality, and these combined with the Altaelva waterway system provide habitats for a whole host of wetland species. Whooper swan can sometimes be found while spotted redshank are not uncommon.
Transportation
The nearest airports are Alta Airport, about from Kautokeino, and Enontekiö Airport, about from Kautokeino. The small Kautokeino Airport is located in the village, but it has no commercial services. European route E45 runs through Kautokeino, part of the shortest and fastest route between western Finnmark and southern Scandinavia.
Population
In the village of Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino, about 1,300 of the 3,000 people in the municipality reside. The village of Máze has about 400 people, while the remaining people in the municipality live in 14 smaller villages scattered around the area. The population has been declining about 3% over the last 10 years.
Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino has different demographics than Finnmark county and Norway as a whole: more than 50% of the population is younger than 30 years. Also, the number of people older than 66 years is half of the national average. The gender ratio amounts to 86 women for every 100 men. For the last couple of years, Kautokeino has been plagued by high rates of unemployment, peaking at 10% in 2006/2007.
A survey conducted on behalf of the Sami Language Council in the year 2000 showed that 96 percent of the population are Sami speakers.
Villages
In addition to the administrative centre of Guovdageaidnu (Kautokeino), the municipality has 15 smaller villages:
Máze (Masi) is the largest of the villages. Máze is located in a river valley. There is a school and Masi Church located in Máze. The current church has 150 seats and was built of wood in 1965. The first chapel was built in the 17th century. The second by Thomas von Westen in 1721. This church was burnt during World War II in 1944. The village was the site of a major political controversy in the late 1970s and early 80s, when it was proposed to flood village to build a large hydroelectric dam.
Láhpoluoppal is a village located northeast of Guovdageaidnu at the southern end of the Láhppojávri lake. The village has a school, Láhpoluoppal Chapel, and mountain hut. The chapel has 70 seats and was built in 1967.
Šihččajávri is located southeast of Guovdageaidnu (Kautokeino) village. The Norwegian Meteorological Institute has a weather observation station in the village, and often the place has the lowest temperature in Norway.
Ávži is a village east of Guovdageaidnu. During the Sami revolt in Guovdageaidnu, the group of Samis that captured the rebellions was organized here.
Siebe is a village south of Guovdageaidnu.
Mieron is a village north of Guovdageaidnu. Many of the Samis who traveled to Canada to teach the Inuit about reindeer herding were from Mieron.
Stornes is a village north of Guovdageaidnu. Close to Stornes is a slate field with distinct green quartzite marketed as Naranas.
Šuoššjávri is a village northeast of Guovdageaidnu near the border with Karasjok with a chapel and a mountain hut. The chapel was built in 1968 and has 75 seats.
Čunovuohppi is a small village with few houses and is west of Guovdageaidnu. The village has a mountain hut (called Madame Bongos fjellstue).
Suolovuopmi is north of Guovdageaidnu near the border with Alta. It is the location of a mountain hut, and is used for metrological observations.
Gálaniitu is southwest of Guovdageaidnu and has a mountain hut.
Áidejávri is south of Guovdageaidnu close to the Finnish border.
Ákšomuotki (Økseidet) is south of Guovdageaidnu.
Soahtefielbma is about west of Guovdageaidnu.
Institutions and media
Several Sámi institutions are located in Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino, including:
Beaivváš Sámi Theatre. The National Sámi Theatre. As a national stage company, they play a major role in making Sámi history and culture visible.
Sámi Joatkkaskuvla ja Boazodoalloskuvla is the Sámi High School and Reindeer Herding School. The high school has emphasis on Sámi, rather than Norwegian culture. Most teachers speak Sámi as their mother tongue allowing for classes to be taught in Sámi. In addition to ordinary courses, students can also study duodji (traditional Sámi crafts) and reindeer herding. In fact, it is the only high school in the world that features a reindeer herding class.
Sámi allaskuvla - the Sámi University College. The college has national responsibility for Sámi higher education, including teacher-, and journalist-training. The college attempts to develop the syllabuses on the basis of Sámi needs, and attempts to develop Sámi as an academic language.
Nordic Sámi Institute. The Nordic Sámi Institute is a Sámi research institution. Research topics include the Sámi language, culture, reindeer husbandry and legal research. The institute published the DIEĐUT magazine.
Sámi giellaossodat; The department of language at the Norwegian Sami Parliament. This department is the administration for the Sámi language board, it allocates the extra funding given to the municipalities that have Sámi as an official language (like Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino), and it administers various projects related to Sámi languages.
The department of education of the Norwegian Sami Parliament.
The Sámi are also internationally active with regards to indigenous people issues and reindeer husbandry. Therefore, the following institutions are also located in Guovdageaidnu/Kautokeino:
Resource Centre for the Rights of Indigenous Peoples. The center attempts to collect, organize, and disseminate the knowledge and understanding of indigenous peoples' and Sami peoples' rights.
International Centre For Reindeer Husbandry.
Guovdageaidnu/ Kautokeino is home to the following Sami media companies:
Ávvir a Sami language newspaper.
DAT Sami publishing house and record company.
Cultural events
Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino is perhaps the cultural center of Northern Sámi today, and hosts several of the most well known Sami cultural events. The biggest event is the Sámi Easter Festival. Easter has traditionally been the time when the Sámis gather to celebrate weddings and confirmations. Today, also the Sami culture is celebrated with many yoik concerts, Sami theater shows, reindeer races, snowmobile races, ice fishing competitions, parties, and the Sámi Grand Prix; a Sámi version of the Eurovision Song Contest where in addition to the best song, the best yoik is also selected. In addition, the Sami Film Festival is usually held during the Easter, which is notable for having an outdoor cinema made of snow.
In June, the annual Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino Walk/Bicycle Ride, has Sámis return to Guovdageaidnu-Kautokeino, just to walk a few kilometers, or ride a bicycle for twice the distance.
In August, there is the White Fish festival, as well as the Autumn Festival. The latter is a weekend-long party full of concerts, but also includes snowmobile skipping races on the (unfrozen) river. If the riders go too slow or make too sharp a turn, the snowmobile sinks.
Notable residents
1852 Kautokeino uprising
Aslak Hætta (1824–1854) a leader of the Sami revolt in Guovdageaidnu, called the Kautokeino Rebellion
Mons Somby (1825 in Kautokeino – 1854) a leader of the Sami rioters
Ellen Aslaksdatter Skum (1827 in Kautokeino – 1895) a Norwegian Sami reindeer herder, who took part in the 1852 Kautokeino uprising
Lars Hætta (1834 in Kautokeino – 1896) a Norwegian Sami reindeer herder, prisoner, wood carver and Bible translator
Public Service
Johan Turi (1854 in Kautokeino – 1936) the first Sami author to publish a secular work in a Sami language
Edel Hætta Eriksen (born 1921 in Kautokeino – 2023) a Norwegian schoolteacher and politician
Lajla Mattsson Magga (born 1942) a Southern Sami teacher, children's writer and lexicographer, lives in Kautokeino
Ole Henrik Magga (born 1947) a Sámi linguist, professor and politician from Kautokeino; the first president of the Sami Parliament of Norway and currently the president of the United Nations Permanent Forum on Indigenous Issues
Ellen Inga O. Hætta (born 1953 in Kautokeino – 2023) a Norwegian Sami school principal and politician
Berit Marie Eira (born 1968) Norwegian Sami reindeer owner and politician, works in Kautokeino municipality
Unni Turrettini (born 1972 in Kautokeino) a writer, lawyer, citizen activist and international speaker; author of The Mystery of the Lone Wolf Killer: Anders Behring Breivik and the Threat of Terror in Plain Sight.
Barbro-Lill Hætta-Jacobsen (born 1972 in Kautokeino) a physician and Norwegian politician
Inger Elin Utsi (born 1975) a Norwegian-Sami politician and actor, grew up in Kautokeino and lives in Alta
Láilá Susanne Vars (born 1976 in Láhpoluoppal) a Norwegian-Sami lawyer and former politician, academic and first Sámi women to achieve a PhD in law, expert member of the United Nations Permanent Forum on Indigenous Issues
The Arts
Ailo Gaup (1944 in Kautokeino - 2014) a Sámi author, involved in founding the Sámi theater Beaivváš Sámi Theatre
Nils Gaup (born 1955 in Kautokeino) a Sámi film director, Academy Award nominee for Pathfinder
Ellen Marie Vars (born 1957 in Láhpoluoppal) a Norwegian Sami writer
Mattis Hætta (born 1959 in Masi) a Norwegian Sami singer, represented Norway in the Eurovision Song Contest 1980
Ingor Ánte Áilo Gaup (born 1960 in Kautokeino) a Sámi actor, composer and folk musician
Johan Sara (born 1963 in Alta) a Sami musician and composer, producer, teacher, arranger and actor
Roger Ludvigsen (born 1965 in Alta) a Sami guitarist, percussionist and composer from Kautokeino
Sollaug Sárgon (born 1965 in Kautokeino) a Norwegian Sami poet and child protective pedagogue
Niko Valkeapää (born 1968 in Enontekiö, Finland) a Sami musician and joiker (Sami folk singer), winner of the Norwegian Spelemannsprisen in 2004; lives in Kautokeino
Rawdna Carita Eira (born 1970) a Norwegian and Sámi playwright and author, lives in Kautokeino
Sara Margrethe Oskal (born 1970 in Kautokeino) a Norwegian Sami writer, actress, artisan, director and film producer
Máret Ánne Sara (born 1983) a Sami artist and author, lives and works in Kautokeino
Unni Turrettini (born 1972 in Kautokeino) a Norwegian attorney, international speaker and best selling author
Fred Buljo (born 1988 in Kautokeino) a Sámi rapper and member of supergroup KEiiNO, named after the village
Sport
Håvard Klemetsen (born 1979 in Kautokeino) a Nordic combined skier with a gold and bronze team medals at the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships
References
External links
Kautokeino Municipality Official Website
Municipal fact sheet from Statistics Norway
Destinasjon Kautokeino Tourist office
Kautokeino.Com is the major online "meeting point"
Sámi Joatkkaskuvla ja Boazodoalloskuvla
Sámi University College
Beaivvas Sámi Teahter
kautokeino.net News and information about events in Kautokeino
Municipalities of Troms og Finnmark
Sámi-language municipalities
Populated places of Arctic Norway
1851 establishments in Norway
Populated places established in 1851