Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is one of only a handful of climbers in the world to have redpointed routes.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.
Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics where he won Bronze.
Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport, and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
Rock climbing
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Adult
Climbing European Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Bouldering
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
:
B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.
:
Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).
:
Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's rute.
King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's rute.
Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.
El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.
Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).
La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.
Fight or flight – Oliana – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).
Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)
:
Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013
Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013
Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
Martin Krpan – Misja Pec – November 21, 2011
Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008
Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
Onsighted routes
:
Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – April 23, 2011
Boulder problems
8C (V15)
Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed
Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020
See also
List of grade milestones in rock climbing
History of rock climbing
Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links
Austrian rock climbers
Living people
1990 births
Sportspeople from Innsbruck
Competitors at the 2013 World Games
World Games silver medalists
Competitors at the 2009 World Games
Olympic sport climbers for Austria
Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Medalists at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Olympic bronze medalists for Austria
Olympic medalists in sport climbing
IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Boulder climbers