Korean royal court cuisine

Korean royal court cuisine was the style of cookery within Korean cuisine traditionally consumed at the court of the Joseon Dynasty, which ruled Korea from 1392 to 1910. There has been a revival of this cookery style in the 21st century. It is said that twelve dishes should be served along with rice and soup, with most dishes served in bangjja (bronzeware).
History
Collectively known as gungjung eumsik during the pre-modern era, the foods of the royal palace reflected the opulent nature of the past rulers of the Korean peninsula. The opulent nature of the royalty is evidenced in examples as far back as the Silla kingdom, where a man-made lake (Anapji Lake, located in Gyeongju), was created with multiple pavilions and halls for the sole purpose of opulent banquets and a spring fed channel, Poseokjeong, was created for the singular purpose of setting wine cups afloat during the writing of poems.
Reflecting the regionalism of the kingdoms and bordering countries of the peninsula, the cuisine borrowed from each of these areas to function as a showcase. The royalty had the finest regional delicacies sent to the palace. Although there are records of banquets pre-dating the Joseon period, the majority of these records note a vast variety of foods without mentioning the specific foods present. The meals cooked for the royal family were not seasonal, like a commoner's meal. Instead, they varied significantly day to day. The eight provinces were represented each month in turn in the royal palace by ingredients presented by their governors. This gave the cooks a wide assortment of ingredients to use for royal meals.
Food held a very important place in Joseon period. Official positions were created within the Six Ministries (Yukjo) that were charged with all matters related to procurement and consumption of food and drink for the royal court. The Board of Personnel (Ijo) contained positions specific for attaining rice for the royal family. The Board of Rites (Yejo) were responsible for foods prepared for ancestor rites, attaining wines and other beverages, and medicinal foods. There were also hundreds of slaves and women who worked in the palace that had tasks such as making tofu, liquor, tea, and tteok (rice cakes). The women were the cooks to the royal palace and were of commoner or low-status families. These women would be split into specific skill sets or "bureaus" such as the Bureau of special foods (Saenggwa-bang) or the Bureau of cooking foods (Soju-bang). These female cooks may have been assisted by male cooks from outside the palace during larger banquets when necessary.
Five meals were generally served in the royal palace each day during the Joseon period, and records suggest this pattern had existed from antiquity. Three of these meals would be full-course meals, while the afternoon and after dinner meals would consist of lighter fare. The first meal, mieumsang, was served at sunrise on days when the king and queen were not taking herbal medicines. The meal consisted of rice porridge (juk) made with ingredients such as abalone (jeonbokjuk), white rice (huinjuk), mushrooms (beoseotjuk), pine nuts (jatjuk), and sesame (kkaejuk). The side dishes could consist of kimchi, nabak kimchi, oysters, soy sauce, and other items. The porridge was thought to give vitality to the king and queen throughout the day.
The sura were the main meals of the day. Breakfast was served at ten in the morning and the evening meals were served between six and seven at night. The set of three tables (surasang), were usually set with two types of rice, two types of soup, two types of stew (jjigae), one dish of jjim (meat stew), one dish of jeongol (a casserole of meat and vegetables), three types of kimchi, three types of jang and twelve side dishes, or called 12 cheop (12). The meals were set in the suragan (수라간), a room specifically used for taking meals, with the king seated to the east and the queen to the west. Each had their own set of tables and were attended by three palace servant women known as sura sanggung. These women would remove bowl covers and offer the foods to the king and queen after ensuring that the dishes were not poisoned.
This Korean food heritage has been inscribed by the government as Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 38. Han Bok-ryeo is the current Living National Treasure as the keeper of this property.
Surasang setting
The surasang should be served with three tables and a hotpot. The largest round table on the left is the main table which contains main bowl, soups and stews, dishes, side dishes and fermented stored dishes. The small round table at the lower right corner contains red sura, gomtang or thick meat broth, dessert, tea, empty dishes and bowls. This table is also used to store the covers of bowls and dishes used in the main table. The rectangular table in the upper right corner contains eggs, sesame oil, various raw vegetables and several sauces. The hotpot in the middle right is heated with charcoal, and usually contains jeongol such as sinseollo.
The setting was as follows:
A, B, C: surasanggung
songsongi: cubed radish kimchi
jeotgugji: kimchi from Korean cabbage seasoned with jeotgal
dongchimi: white kimchi
jeotgal: fermented, salted seafood
jorigae: hard-boiled food with heavy seasonings
namul: seasoned vegetable side dishes
saengche: fresh salad
jjim: steamed or boiled dishes
mareunchan: dried foods
janggwa: braised seafood
pyeonyuk: boiled and seasoned meat pressed by heavy weight and then sliced thinly
changui: fried Codonopsis lanceolata (더덕, deodeok) and kim
jeonyuhwa: pancake-like fried dish
Jeotguk jochi: kind of fish soup
togu: a plate used to hold bones during the meal
jang: soy sauce
chojang: soy sauce with vinegar
cho gochujang: chili paste with vinegar
tojang jochi: soybean soup
huinsura: white rice
gwaktang: seaweed soup
chaeso: vegetables
gogi: meat
jangguk: soybean paste soup
dalgyal: egg
jeongol: type of stew
jaengban and chasu: teapot and plate
gongjeobsi(): empty plate
gonggi: empty bowl
suran: poached egg
hoe: raw fish and meat
deoungui: hot grilled meat
hongban or patsura: rice with azuki beans
gomtang: soup from beef meat and bones
Main dishes served in a bowl
Sura
Sura is a bowl of boiled rice and grains. Two kinds of sura must always be served. This includes white sura.
White Sura: boiled rice without any additional ingredients.
Red Sura: boiled rice made with the boiled water of azuki beans.
Five Grain Sura: made by boiling rice, sweet rice, glutinous millet, and azuki beans
Goldongban: boiled rice mixed with steamed vegetables, roasted beef, and a fried egg. In the royal palace, bibimbap was known as goldongban.
Juk, mieum, and eungi
Juk and mieum or eung-i are types of rice porridge usually served in the morning. Juk is thicker than mieum in texture, latter of which is similar to the Western gruel.
Omija eungi: Firstly, omija berries are boiled and honey is then added to the boiled omija. The boiled omija berries are taken out. Mung bean starch is then added, the liquid is boiled again.
Sok mieum: Sweet rice, red jujubes, ginseng root, and chestnuts are simmered.
Jatjuk : rice is soaked and pine nuts are ground before being boiled in water.
Hangin Juk: Apricot kernels are peeled and ground with rice. The rice and apricot seed mixture is boiled.
Heukimjajuk : Black sesame seeds are ground and boiled with rice.
Tarakjuk : soaked rice is boiled with water, and then cow milk is added. It is then boiled some more.
Janggukjuk: ground beef and chopped shiitake mushrooms are boiled together.
Other dishes include dalgyal samhap mieum, jo mieum, sok mieum, chajo mieum, yulmu eungi, nokmal eungi, omija eungi, etc.
Guksu
Guksu are noodles that are prepared with buckwheat or wheat flour, with the former being preferred.
Myeon sinseollo: Boiled sliced beef shank, paeju, Korean parsley, and sliced bamboo sprouts are boiled with beef stock. Boiled guksu is added to the ready beef stock mixture.
Onmyeon: stock made from beef brisket is added to roast beef, sliced egg pancake, and guksu.
Nanmyeon: Wheat flour is mixed with eggs to make noodles. They are then served with beef stock.
Domimyeon: noodle soup made with panfish, sliced egg pancakes, ginkgo seeds, walnuts, fried meatballs, and pine nuts.
Other guksu dishes include jangguk naengmyeon, kimchiguk naengmyung, bibim naengmyeon, etc. Simple naengmyeon is also popular.
Mandu and ddeokguk
Mandu are boiled or steamed dumplings. Mandu dough is made from either wheat flour or buckwheat. The dough is then stuffed with various fillings. Tteokguk (떡국) is a soup made of tteok (glutinous rice cakes)
Jangguk mandu: kimchi, pork, and tofu are used as filling.
Saengchi mandu: ring neck pheasant, dropwort, cabbage, and shiitake mushrooms are used as filling. Buckwheat dough is used. The prepared saengchi mandu is then boiled in meat stock.
Donga mandu: Mandu made with winter melon, chicken and starch. It is steamed and then boiled in meat stock.
Pyeonsu : Mandu made with beef, cucumber, green bean sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, and rock tripe.
Tteokguk : Tteok sliced round to resemble coins, and is boiled with meat stock. It is served with egg pancake slices and roasted ground meat.
Other varieties include gyuasang and junchi mandu.
Eo mandu: Mandu made with a thinly sliced fish flesh as its wrap and stuffed with minced beef, vegetables, and several spices.
Dishes
Tang
Tang is a type of soup made with beef shank, intestines, a knuckle (bone) and beef brisket.
Malgeun guk: a hot and clear soup, and includes Mu-guk, clear beef soup, Miyeok guk, dried pollock soup, etc.
Gomguk: a thick soup made so by simmering for a long time. Varieties include gomtang, seolleongtang , yukgaejang, etc.
Tojangguk: a soup flavored with doenjang (fermented soybean paste). This includes cabbage tonjangguk, spinach tojangguk, etc.
Naengguk : a soup served cold. This includes kkaeguktang, oinaengguk, and wakame cold soup.
Jochi and gamjeong
Jochi and gamjeong are stew-like dishes which is called jjigae in nowadays. If seasoned with gochujang, they are called gamjeong. Jochi is seasoned with salt or salted shrimp. Other varieties include:
Crab gamjeong
Cucumber gamjeong
Oyster jochi
Zucchini jochi
Fish jochi, etc.
Jjim and seon
Jjim: steamed or boiled beef, pork, and fish seasoned with vegetables. Seon is steamed vegetables, tofu, and fish stuffed with fillings made with beef or chicken and onions.
Swellfish jjim
Bure jjim
Red sea bream jjim or Pagrus major jjim
Tteok
Ox tail jjim
Dubuseon, steamed tofu with fillings
Gajiseon, made with eggplant
Oiseon, made with cucumber
Hobakseon, made with zucchini
Museon, made with radish
Baechuseon, made with napa cabbage
Jeongol and sinseollo
Jeongol and sinseollo are similar to Western stew or Chinese hotpot. Sinseollo (which is a variety of jeongol) is boiled in meat stock with various vegetables and mushrooms in a specific cooking pot with holes. Jeongol and sinseollo are served with a burner.
Domi guksu jeongol, made with noodles and Red seabream
Nakji jeongol, made with small octopus
Dubu jeongol, made with tofu
Side dishes
Saengchae
Saengchae is like a salad seasoned with salt, vinegar, soy sauce, or mustard sauce.
Mu saengchae, made of shredded radish
Oi saengchae, made of cucumber
Deodeok saengchae, made of deodeok root (Codonopsis lanceolata, a species of bonnet bellflower).
Seomchorongkkot saengchae, made of Korean bellflower, etc.
Namul
Namul are any variety of steamed vegetables seasoned with hot pepper, garlic, green onion, salt, and sesame or perilla oil. Typical vegetables include spinach, radish, royal fern, bracken, zucchini, green bean sprouts, Korean bellflower, bamboo shoots, etc. In some cases, dangmyeon (potato starch noodles) and roasted beef can be used as well.
Gujeolpan
Japchae
Tangpyeonchae
Jorigae
Jorigae hard-boiled foods with heavy seasonings. Meats, fish and vegetable are mainly used.
Beef jorigae
Sliced steamed beef jorigae
Sliced steamed pork jorigae
Small yellow croaker jorigae (조기조리개}})
Jeonyuhwa
Jeonyuhwa or sometimes jeon: a dish resembling a pancake. The main ingredients can be lightly battered with egg and wheat flour. Eggs, flour, and other ingredients can be mixed to make pancakes.
Jogaejeon, made with shellfish
Saeu jeon, made with shrimp
Gochu jeon, made with hot pepper
Bindaetteok made from ground mung beans and other ingredients
Yeongeun jeon, made with sliced lotus root
Pajeon, made with green onions
Gui
Gui is a generic Korean cuisine term for roasted and seasoned dishes. The main ingredients include green laver, beef, the root of deodeok (Codonopsis lanceolata), fish, mushrooms, vegetables, Aralia elata sprouts, etc.
Garibi gui or gari gui, old term for galbi, grilled short ribs seasoned with soy sauce
Garibi gui, grilled scallops
Neobiani, ancient form of bulgogi
Pogui, grilled po (either dried meat jerky, or fish)
Dak sanjeok, grilled chicken and vegetables on skewers
Hwayang seok, various marinated ingredients grilled on skewers
Hoe
Hoe is raw fish or raw seasoned beef
Yukhoe, raw seasoned beef
Gaksaek hoe
Gabhoe, etc.
Jang
sauce
Doenjang : soybean paste like miso, but containing some whole and partially crushed beans, fermented in crocks until very mellow
Cheonggukjang : more pungent soybean paste, fermented for only a few days. Contains some whole or partially crushed soybeans.
Cheongjang: "bright" sauce (soy sauce with vinegar)
Gochujang: hot pepper soybean paste sauce
Chogochujang: vinegar hot pepper soybean paste sauce
Gyeojajeub: mustard sauce
Banchan
dishes
Changui: cold roast of laver and Codonopsis lanceolata root, a bonnet bellflower species called deodeok in Korean
Deoungui: hot roast of meat, fish, etc.
Jeonyuhwa: pancake of meat, fish, and vegetables
Pyeonyuk: steamed meat
Sukchae: steamed vegetables
Saengchae: raw seasoned vegetables
Jorim: lightly boiled meat, fish and vegetables with seasoning
Janggwa: fermented vegetables in soy sauce
Jeotgal: fermented salty fish
Mareulchan: dried slices of meat seasoned with spices, fried kelp, and dried salty fish
Hoe: raw fish or beef, or fermented raw fish
Chansuran: cold soup with vegetables or boiled meat
Chasu: tea made from grains
Dessert
Tteok (rice cake)
Mostly made of rice, it is eaten as a dessert or on Chuseok, which falls on the 15th day of the 8th month in the lunar calendar. These rice cakes vary from containing sweet red bean rice to sesame seeds. Most of these rice cakes are mildly sweet and are enjoyed by everyone from young to old.
Tea and fruit punch
Sikhye:
A sweet rice punch. Being an iconic Korean traditional drink, several varieties of canned sikhye are now widely available.
Sujeonggwa:
A sweet drink flavored with ginger and cinnamon. Softened dried persimmons and pine nuts are added at serving time.
Fruit Hwachae: fruit punch made by mixing several fruits together, or only one fruit used. The ingredients are cherries, strawberries, peaches, or watermelons. There are also hwachae with floating azalea petals, boiled barley, pine pollen, or slices of pear in omija-flavored water, sweetened with honey or sugar.
See also
Dae Jang Geum
Notes
References
Pettid, Michael J., Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History, London: Reaktion Books Ltd., 2008.
External links
Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine
General information about Korean royal court cuisine from KOPIA
General information about Korean royal court cuisine from Jeonbuk Food Culture Plaza
Important Intangible Cultural Properties of South Korea
Material culture of royal courts