Coffee is changing – there’s a world of flavour and choice out
there, in shops and at home. ShortList’s Howard Calvert reveals
tores the ultimate guide to upgrading your mo t’s 7.30am on a Monday moming. You are queuing at a big-name coffee chain. The sizing system on the menu board still bewilders you. You order something, and eventually you’re presented with a pint of liquid that tastes like it’s been decanted into an old petrol can. You grimace and force it down. It doesn't have to be this way. The UK is in the midst of a coffee revolution. More and more independent coffee houses are opening across the country, popping up with burnished Synesso machines, grinding a range of freshly roasted beans and offering small menus of excellent coffee. lt’s been a long journey to get here, though. The UK’s first coffee house opened in Oxford in 1651, and by 1700 – like the later influx of big- name chains – there were suddenly thousands in London. They quickly became important meeting places for debates between great minds of the time, such as Isaac Newton and Christopher Wren, although the brews tasted like soot and were only consumed for the caffeine kick. By the 19th century, coffee shops were on the decline after they began to serve alcohol as well, and tea began to rise in popularity. It was then a long, desolate century for coffee until the Nineties, when the chains began to infiltrate from the US. But it’s only been in the past five years that the coffee revolution has truly taken hold. Alex Evans, author of The Independent Coffee Book: London, puts the surge in popularity down to a handful of independent shops, roasters and baristas who initially raised standards across the board. “James Hoffmann and Gwilym Davies's victories in the World Barista Championships, in 2007 and 2009 respectively, generated a buzz around coffee that’s been slow to subside," he says. "The search for better ways of brewing and roasting, shared by a handful of enthusiasts and their contemporaries, showed an already primed coffee-consuming nation what it was missing." This, coupled with the arrival of expert Australian and Kiwi baristas in London, resulted in people seeking out more and more quality. And there's no sign of the trend dipping, with gourmet carts and independent cafés pointing to a filter-brewed future. But how do you know what’s good and what isn't? And what apparatus should you invest in to make great coffee at home? Tip that paper cup of frothy sludge away and read on for our comprehensive guide to the coffee revolution. BIRDHOUSE The stylish interior stands out from the crowd due to the fact the owners are both former graphic designers. They use Climpson & Sons beans, and are earning a reputation as purveyors of London's finest flat white. 123 St John's Hill, SW11; birdhou.se Sourcing beans from the likes of Extract and Round Hill, Pink Lane also likes to experiment: its 'cold drip and tonic’ is made in a Japanese cold drip (dripped through for three hours) with tonic water. 1 Pink Lane, NE1; @PinkLaneCoffee Artisan is making waves in the Scottish world of coffee with cleverly sourced beans roasted on-site. Don’t miss coffee tastings, informative history lessons and the artery- clogging bundt cake. 15 Gibson St, G12; artisanroast.co.uk whether you like the smell. Remember: you are drinking coffee for pleasure. After and tastes. There is a whole range to look for, from the nut flavours to 'sugar browning' PRUFROCK, LONDON The No1 destination for espressos and filters in London. Sit at the bar and marvel over the baristas’ filter coffee-making expertise. The shop is a museum of roasters, syphons and cold filters, and they do an array of regular tasting courses. 23 Leather Lane, EC1; prufrockcoffee.com Brighton has it good for coffee, but intimate café Mr Wolfe is leading the pack. Serving Monmouth coffee on a La Marcozzo machine, they even let you doodle on the chalkboard- style tables while you wait for your brew. 15 Montpelier Place, BN1; mrwolfe.co.uk – caramel, chocolate – right up      looking for syrupy, creamy to fruity flavours like lemon, textures. Bitterness is a orange and blackcurrant." negative characteristic – and Check out the texture "Is it thin-bodied or thick, creamy or gritty? Is it astringent – the tongue drying sensation you get with overbrewed black tea? If it is, that’s often a bad sign. You’re F O R  F I L T E R C O F F E E Square Mile: Buzira Kayanza This Burundian coffee has spicy aniseed flavours with a sweet, caramelly textur £8 (350g): squaremilecoffee.com Has Bean: Finca Loayza Feliciano Ramos Has Bean sells a range of coffees from all over the world, sourced by owner Stephen Leighton. This Bolivian bean has hints of cherry cola and dark chocolate. £5 (250g); hasbean.co.uk
F O R
E S P R E S S O Extract: Dr Strangelove A blend of Brazilian and Nicaraguan beans for a bold espresso. £4.80 (250g); extractcoffee.co.uk Origin: Seasonal Espresso Blend A mix from Nicaragua, El Salvador and Ethiopia. Expect flavours of lemon sherbet and blackberry. £6.95 (250g); origincoffee.co.uk 99 per cent of commercial coffee is overly bitter. You’re seeking a brew where pleasing flavours predominate." The Espresso Room, 31 Great Ormond St, WC1; theespressoroom.com Get the water right "It makes a big difference to taste if you use filtered water. And never pour boiling water on coffee – let it cool a bit first." Use fresh beans, freshly ground "Good coffee beans should come with a 'roasted on' date – you should keep them airtight and try to use them within a month of that date. Investing in a grinder is worthwhile – go for a burr grinder rather than flat-blade. Pre-ground beans go stale very quickly." Look for a 'clean cup' "Not literally. This means you’re looking for ’off’ flavours and smells. Any aromas of wood, ash, burning or rubber signal a defect. The problem is that these are the predominant flavours in the majority of commercial coffee, so most people have never had a quality cup – people smell commercial coffee and pick up an overwhelmingly roasty smell, like burnt carbon, and they associate that with good coffee." Don't over- intellectualise the process "Don't overwhelm yourself – just decide Barista Champion Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, this shop aims to educate, with tasting notes written out on a blackboard and three different filter methods available to choose from at any time. 6 Chapel Row, BA1; colonnaandsmalls.co.uk A tiny café located in east London’s Hackney knocking out fine espressos using Square Mile coffee. It's something of a pilgrimage to track the place down, but well worth the effort. 46b Brooksby’s Walk, E9; 46b-espressohut.tumblr. com T U R N  O V E R  T O  S E E  O U R  P I C K  O F  T H E  H O M E - B R E W I N G  K I T
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It may look like it takes a degree in aeronautics to operate, but it’s surprisingly simple (plus, as with all brewing methods, there is an abundance of 'how to use it' videos on YouTube). Think of it as a geek’s French press. £22; hasbean.co.uk ▶ B O S C H S T Y L I N E K E T T L E This comes with an all-important temperature control, so you can ensure your water is just right for your brew. £60; johnlewis. com
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The simple way to filter – just add a filter paper and your ground coffee and pour through hot water. Top tip (with all filters): pour hot water through the filter paper first – it eradicates the 'paper' taste. £15; squaremilecoffee.com
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Required to weigh the correct measure of ground beans for your perfect cup, these come with a carry case for entirely imaginary coffee emergencies. £13; hasbean.co.uk
me-brewil
Essential equipment for burgeoning kitchen barist ▶ R A N C I L I O S I L V I A   V 3 C O F F E E M A C H I N E Espressos are tricky to make to coffee- shop standard at home. This machine will help. It looks the part, has an idiot-proof interface and leaves others in its steamy wake. £415; gio-espresso. co.uk ◄R A N C I L I O R O C K Y G R I N D E R A hand-grinder is good, an electric grinder is better. You need a burr mechanism (rather than one with blades); like the Silvia machine, this is the king of home grinders. £270; gio-espresso.co.uk
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Put that Bunsen burner away, Professor Cox. All this requires is hot water and filter paper. Simple to operate: the key is to pour all the water in three minutes. From £37; coffeehit.co.uk IHOTOGRAPHS: CORBIS, LITTLE RED PANDA, PENNYBLOODSELACKBOOK.COM, © NICHA T ▼ P O R L E X C E R A M I C B U R R G R I N D E R Grind beans and get a work out. This hand grinder will prompt a few drops of sweat, but the effort will make your coffee taste all the sweeter. Or floral, depending on the beans you choose. £30; hasbean.co.uk