THE CHILDREN BEHINDOUR COTTONCONTENTS
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Executive summaryIntroductionAll in a day’s workHa rd la bourP hysica l a buseChild’s workA child’s cot t on wa geOut of school 
Growing bodie s unde r a t t a ck 

How did I end up here? Acknowledgements
This report was researched, written andproduced by the Environmental JusticeFoundation (EJF).
Design Dan Brown(danbbrown@blueyonder.co.uk)
Cover photo © EJF
Printed on % post-consumer waste
recycled paper, supplied by Paperback.
Thanks to Brian Emmerson/Emmerson
Press (www.emmersonpress.co.uk)
EJF would like to thank the following
people/organisations for their invaluable
time and assistance with information andvisual materials used in this report:
Moctar Coulibaly/AMADIP; Albertine
De Lange; Galina Derevenchenko,
Bureau on Human Rights and Rule ofLaw, Tajikistan; Peter Hurst, ILO;
Dr. Ghulam Hyder/Green Rural
Development Organization (GRDO);
Sudhir Katiyar/Dakshini Rajasthan
Majdoor Union; Land Center for
Human Rights; Ann-Carin Landström;
Hui Lin; Megha Prasad/TIMES NOW;
Venkat Reddy, MV Foundation; Farid
Tukhbatullin, Turkmen Initiative for
Human Rights (TIHR); Davuluri
Venkateswarlu; R. Vidyasagar; Elena
Walsh; Staphany Wong, IHLO; Shoira
Yusupova, Act Central Asia.
In thanking these individuals andorganisations, we in no way imply thatthey endorse the report’s content.
With sincere thanks to OSI AssistanceFoundation and to The Body Shop
Foundation for their support.

The Environmental Justice Foundation
is a UK-based non-governmentalorganisation working internationally.
More information about EJF’s work and
PDF versions of this report can be foundat www.ejfoundation.org. Comments on
the report, requests for further copies, or
specific queries about EJF and the cotton
project should be directed to
info@ejfoundation.org.
This document should be cited as: EJF,
, The Children behind Our Cotton.
Environmental Justice Foundation,
London, UK. ISBN No. ---

Glossary
Bt cotton: cotton plants thathave been genetically modified
by the insertion of one or moregenes from Bacillus
thuringiensis, a toxin-producing
bacterium found naturally insoils, to destroy the bollworm, amajor cotton pest. Also known
as transgenic cotton
Conventional cotton: cotton
produced using a heavy inputof chemicals to control pests;
accounts for most cotton
production worldwide
Fairtrade certified cotton:
cotton that has met theinternational Fairtrade standard
for production of seed cotton,
and is therefore eligible to carry
the FAIRTRADE Mark – anindependent productcertification label thatguarantees that cotton farmers
are receiving a fair and stable
Fairtrade price and premium,receiving pre-financing where
requested, and benefiting fromlonger-term, more direct
trading relationships.
Organic cotton: cottongrown without the use ofpesticides or chemicalfertilisers, whereby naturalpredator populations are
nurtured and crop rotation isused to halt the development ofcotton-pest populations andavoid excessive soil depletion.
An organic garment must be
made up of at least 95%
certified organic fibre.

Map: child labour in major 
cotton-producing regions
Focus on Uzbekistan 
The business of cotton Conclusion 
Recommendations 
References 

E X E C U T I V E S U M M A RY
     : Children work in hybrid
cottonseed fields in Andhra
Pradesh, India for less than a dollar
a day, while the country’s
cottonseed industry is worth
around $. billion annually.
© EJF● Six of the world’s top seven cotton producers have been reported to use children in

the field. Forced child labour – a clear contravention of the International Labour
Organisation’s (ILO) Convention on the Worst Forms of Child Labour – is disturbingly common.
● Children are recruited, at the expense of their schooling, for numerous exacting,dangerous and tedious tasks, from hybrid cottonseed production to pesticide application and pest control. Children are also involved in the harvest; since the crop canbe hand-picked by underpaid or free labour, there is little incentive for mechanisation of the industry.
● The conditions child labourers endure in helping to produce the cotton products

sold on international markets are often brutal. They may be subjected to beatings,
threats of violence and overwork. Shocking cases of sexual harassment and abuse ofgirls have been reported in some major cotton-producing countries.
● Many children in the cotton fields are exposed to what is termed hazardous childlabour, which can result in them being killed, injured or made ill as a result of theirwork (agriculture is one of the three most dangerous sectors in which to work, alongwith mining and construction). In some regions, children regularly work in the cotton fields during, or following, the spraying season when levels of pesticide residues
are high. The effects of pesticide exposure in adults are extensive and often fatal,
ranging from temporary loss of sight to respiratory problems. Young bodies are particularly susceptible to chemicals, given that their internal organs are still developing. Many of the health problems resulting from working in the cotton fields may
not show up until the child is an adult.
● For many child cotton workers, their contribution to this multi-million-dollar indus-

try goes uncompensated. Children are often trapped in debt-bondage due to loans                         extended to their impoverished parents, while others are only guaranteed payment– usually pitiful sums – at the end of several months’ work.
● Since the agricultural sector tends to be less regulated than other industries, ade-quate legal protection is often lacking, and child labourers – often far from home andfamily – usually have no official means to complain.
● While the growth of ethical consumerism has prompted a rising interest in organicand Fairtrade cotton, and conditions in textile factories have come under harsher
scrutiny, little attention has so far been paid to conditions in conventional and Bt
cotton fields. Retailers need to be aware of who is handling the cotton at every stageof the process. The failure of producers, traders and, in particular, retailers, to track
their supply chain means that products made using child labour can easily enter
western consumer markets. At the same time, the opacity of the supply chain allows
retailers to avoid seeking direct assurance that their products are free from childlabour, and denies the consumer an informed choice. However, market leaders intracking supply in the cotton-garment industry are now emerging and proving to themarket that supply can be cheaply and effectively monitored – if the will to do soexists.
● Practical measures can swiftly be taken to address transparency of sourcing, with alabelling scheme established that identifies the country of origin of the cotton as wellas the country of manufacture. The onus falls on actors at various stages of the supply chain – on consumers to demand clear labelling from retailers; retailers to requiretransparency from textile companies; and cotton traders to clarify the sources of
their supply. Meanwhile, international pressure must be brought to bear on all countries that have yet to ratify and implement ILO Conventions on child labour. Consumers and retailers at each end of the financial scale can use their purchasing power
to ensure that children are not paying a terrible price for our clothes and goods. In
particular, European and North-American consumers, accounting for around % ofworld clothing imports, have enormous potential to influence the way in which thisindustry operates.

                              : Boys in a Malian cotton
field.
© AMADIP/EJF

A small price to pay
for environmental
jus�ced help kids
£5 / $6 per month coul
ds, endget out of the cotton ﬁelfarmers frompirate ﬁshing, protect
re, guarantee
deadly pesticide exposu
gees
a place for climate refu
This report has been researched, wri�en andpublished by the Environmental Jus�ce Founda�on(EJF), a UK Registered charity working interna�onallyto protect the natural environment and human rights.
Our campaigns include ac�on to resolve abuses
and create ethical prac�ce and environmental
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unnecessary and dangerous pes�cides and to securevital interna�onal support for climate refugees.
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to help them stop the exploita�on of their naturalenvironment. Through our work EJF has learnt thateven a small amount of training can make a massive
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Protecting People and Planet‘Most working children in the world are found on farms and plantations, not in factories,
sweatshops or urban areas. If we want to eliminate the worst forms of child labour,
greater effort needs to be made to address child labour in agriculture.’
I N T E R NAT I O NA L P R O G R A M M E O N T H E E L I M I NAT I O N O F C H I L D L A B O U R ( I P E C )  /J E N N I E D E Y D E P R Y C K , C H I E F O F FAO ’ S R U R A L I N S T I T U T I O N S A N D P A R T I C I PA T I O N S E R V I C E 

I N T RO D U C T I O N
n estimated % of the world’s cotton farmers live and work in thedeveloping world. These farmers – responsible for % of global cotton
production – are predominantly members of the rural poor, often cultivating cotton on plots of less than one-half hectare, or on part of their farms
as a means of supplementing their livelihoods. Almost two-thirds live in India
and China.
Of the top seven cotton producers, all, apart from the United States, havebeen reported to use children in the field. Forced child labour – a clear contravention of the International Labour Organisation’s (ILO) Convention on the
Worst Forms of Child Labour – is disturbingly common.
Exploited, abused and intimidated, countless children across almost every
continent labour every day under the world’s extremely lucrative cotton production industry, worth an estimated US$ billion in . They spend fromdawn to dusk, often in harsh weather, performing back-breaking, dangerous
and tedious tasks. Comfort and care are alien: they can be far from homes andfamilies – in some cases having been trafficked across borders – enduring
deplorable conditions. For their adult-like input, they receive little or no compensation, while school is out of the question.

A     : Picking raw cotton in
Korla in northwest China’s
Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous
Region, where cotton is the major
crop.
© PA P h o t o s                         Children are recruited – under a myriad of conditions and complex circumstances and by a number of different actors – for a variety of tasks, fromhybrid cottonseed production to pest control. In many countries, since the crop
can be hand-picked by underpaid workers or free labour, there is little incentive
for mechanisation of the industry.
The work itself is difficult enough, but the conditions child labourers endurein helping to produce the cotton products sold on international markets areoften a horrific extension of their arduous labour. Children may be subjected
to beatings, threats of violence, and overwork. Shocking cases of sexual harassment and abuse of girls have been reported in India, China and Pakistan.
In addition to the physical strain of the labour, growing bodies are vulnerable to profound health and safety risks. In Africa and South and Central Asia,
children regularly work in the cotton fields during, or following, the applicationof pesticides, when harmful chemical residues are present. The well-documented effects of pesticide exposure in adults include vomiting, headaches, disorientation and respiratory problems. Unconsciousness, convulsions and evendeath can result. Young bodies are particularly susceptible to chemicals, giventhat their organs are still developing.
For the many child cotton workers effectively subsidising the cotton industry, their contribution goes uncompensated. In South Asia, children are often
bonded by loans given to their parents, while others are only guaranteed payment – usually pitiful sums – at the end of several months’ work, effectively
trapped in debt-bondage by unscrupulous farmers and middlemen. The Uzbek
regime – sustained by its multi-million-dollar cotton industry – forces children
to hand-pick the crop during the harvest season, for which they receive little orno pay, working to exacting and unreasonable quotas, at the expense of theireducation. The use of child labour also has a debilitating economic impact on
adults. If children do get paid, their wages are lower than adults, whose bargaining power is consequently undermined. Depriving future generations ofeducation, and exposing them to potential major health problems, thereby creating a long-term socio-economic burden, further belies the notion of ‘cheap’
labour.
The agricultural sector tends to be less regulated than other industries,
which means that adequate legal protection is often lacking, and child labourers usually have no official means to complain. Some children are sent far awayfrom home to work on farms, leaving them separated from immediate family,
and socially excluded, with little or no support if the conditions are harsh. In
some cases, children are not even formally registered as workers, but work with
their family to ensure the high daily work quotas demanded by land owners aremet, in many cases impossible to achieve without the extra hands. Children
can also be hired through subcontractors, making it easier for farmers to turna blind eye to ages and working conditions. These middlemen may exploit thechildren even further by charging excessive amounts for food, transport andaccommodation, and by holding back wages.
The context of child labour is complex, but much more can be done by thevarious actors in the supply chain to help eliminate it. Consumers, who haveenormous potential to influence the way in which this lucrative trade is conducted, need to be aware that if they are paying low prices for their clothes, it
is likely that someone in the supply chain is being exploited. The link between
children in the fields and consumers in the West cannot be avoided: China is thesource of nearly one-third of textile imports into the EU, followed by Turkey
and India – three countries that have been implicated in child-labour practices.
The obvious and pronounced failure of manufacturers and retailers to track
their supply chain means that products made using child labour can – and do– easily enter the major western consumer markets. At the same time, the opacity of the supply chain allows retailers to avoid seeking direct assurance that
their products are free from child labour (or other abuses), and denies the consumer an informed choice.
Nonetheless, market leaders in tracking supply in the cotton-garment industry, such as Continental Clothing, are now emerging and proving to the market that supply can be cheaply and effectively monitored – if the will to do soexists.

                         Child labour defined, and childrights
A child’s right not to engage in exploitative labour
is set out in a number of conventions, among
them the UN Convention on the Rights of theChild (1989), ILO Convention No. 138 on
Minimum Age for Employment, and ILO
Convention No. 182 on Immediate Action andProhibition of the Worst Forms of Child Labour14.
Child labour, according to International Labour
Organization (ILO) conventions, is work thatharms children’s well-being, and hinders theireducation, development and future livelihood15.
The ILO has undertaken to eliminate what are
termed the worst forms of child labour as definedin Article 3 of ILO Convention No. 182, which
include slavery; pornography and prostitution;
the involvement of a child in other illicit activities;and ‘work that is likely to harm the health, safety
or morals of children’. This last category is
generally termed “hazardous child labour”, and isparticularly applicable to children working incotton fields.
The ILO underlines that not all work thatchildren undertake in agriculture is bad for them,or would qualify as work to be eliminated under
Conventions 138 or 182. Age-appropriate tasks
that are low-risk and do not interfere with a child’s
schooling and right to leisure time can be anormal part of growing up in a rural environment.
Many types of work experience for children arerecognised to be positive, providing them withpractical and social skills for the future16.
The ILO also promotes youth employment inagriculture (15 years and above; 14 in the case ofdeveloping countries) as long as the adolescentsare employed under “decent conditions of work”,
including good health and safety standards andacceptable hours and remuneration.
Article 32(1) of the Convention on the Rightsof the Child calls for the recognition of the right ofchildren to be protected from economic
exploitation and from performing any work that is
likely to be hazardous, to interfere with theireducation, or to be harmful to their health orphysical, mental, spiritual, moral or social
development17. ILO Convention 182 requires
ratifying nations to, among other conditions,remove children from abusive child labour andprovide them with rehabilitation; facilitate social
reintegration; and ensure access to free basic
education18.
ILO figures for child labour do not include
children younger than five years of age, as they
are considered too young to be engaged in work,
but abuses may still exist19. The ILO estimates thatchild labourers number 218 million worldwide,
126 million of whom are engaged in hazardous
work20, while an estimated 5.7 million children aretrapped in forced and bonded labour,
representing up to 50% of all victims of forced
labour21. As many as 132 million working children
aged 5-14 are found in agriculture22.

World’s Major Cotton Producers
Production23(1000 metric
tons)

Percentage of
world
production(approx.)

Value oflint on world
market24(USD$bln)

China,
Peoples Republic of

7729

30

India

5117

United States

Country

ILO Conventions
138 and 18225

Child
Labourin Cotton

Child’s
Wage
(USD)

12.1

Ratified(1999 and 2002)Yes

13 cents per kilo picked,
which goes to their school

20

8.0

Not ratified

Yes

Up to $1.50/day

3953

15

6.2

138 not ratified;
182 ratified (1999)

No

N/A

Pakistan

2395

9

3.8

Ratified(2006
and 2001)

Yes

0 if trapped in debt bondage;$3.30-$10 per month in
the field, if not bonded;$1.60/12 hours inginning factory

Brazil

1524

6

2.4

Ratified(2001 and 2000)

Yes

Unavailable

Uzbekistan, Republic of

1154

4

1.8

Not ratified

Yes

Up to five cents/kilo

Turkey

740

3

1.2

Ratified(1998 and 2001)

Yes$131/two months

Other

3571

14

5.6

Total

26,183100

41‘We can’t afford adult workers. They charge three times more than child workers...I can employ adults if companies pay me more.’
B T C O T T O N FA R M E R I N A N D H R A P R A D E S H  

A Summary of Cotton Exports in 2005
As illustrated below, Asia is a major recipient of Uzbek and African cotton exports, while 19% of Uzbekistan’s cotton exports end up in the EU.
Source: Infocomm, UNCTAD, www.unctad.org/infocomm

USA

Mexico
15%

EU 25
16%
4%
19%

Russia14%
Uzbekistan
Turkey11%
Francophone
Africa
Asia*
60%
55%
91%
43%

Australia* Including China, India and Pakistan but not Central Asia
© EJF

An Insatiable Demand for Cotton
Cotton is a major consumer product: the primary product manufactured from cotton fibre is clothing,which accounts for some 60% of the world’s total cotton production, with a further 35% used to makehome furnishing, and the remainder for industrial products27. European and North-American consumers
account for around 75% of world clothing imports (worth $276bn)28, with the UK and Germany thebiggest EU importers of textile products in 200529. Textile and clothing imports into the EU were worth
around EUR74 billion in 200530, with China providing the bulk, followed by Turkey31.

                         ‘I belong to the farm so I
work on the fields. I don’t
earn any money, and I
didn’t know I was
supposed to be
paid…Sometimes thethermometer goes over 40
degrees.’
A NINTH-GRADE PUPIL IN SOUTH
T A J I K I S TA N       : A boy hoeing to create
irrigation channels in aconventional cottonseed field in an
Andhra Pradesh village, earningRs  ( cents) a day.
© EJF

A L L I N A DAY ’ S WO R K
Hard labourT‘I work so hard during the
day that coming backhome I am so tired that I
cannot do my homework,
sleep hangs on my eyelids.’
A  -YEAR-OLD FROM RAGUN,T A J I K I S TA N                           

ypically, cotton’s child labourers – some as young as five – rise in theearly morning to face a day of demanding work, manually picking thecotton, and carrying the harvest in heavy loads on their backs. Theysow; weed the fields; remove cotton pests; and in some cases, spray the crops
with hazardous pesticides (See “Growing Bodies under Attack”). Roughly one
million children are hired by Egypt’s agricultural cooperatives to manually clear
the cotton crops of worms. In India, hundreds of thousands of children –most of them girls – spend long days under the hot sun cross-pollinating cotton. Hybrid cottonseed production is a highly labour- and capital-intensive
activity, requiring about  times more work and almost five times more capital than conventional cotton. As part of the production process, children also
work in ginning factories, where they have been reported to complete -hour
shifts, and are exposed to dust and blazing sunlight, for meagre wages without
any social security or protection. Their work, which includes throwing cotton
into machines, is often heavily physical.
Living conditions at the end of a gruelling day provide little comfort. In
Uzbekistan, older children and those conscripted to work in remoter areas areforced to stay in dormitories, on farms, or in classrooms, at times drinking contaminated irrigation water, with insufficient food. A group of Malian children
on a plantation in Ivory Coast reported that, after beginning work at am, they
were forced to wait until pm for their first meal, in a -hour workday. They
slept together in one room, using damp banana leaves as mattresses. In Gujarat,
girls live in sheds, sleeping on the floor and washing in the open.

Physical abuse‘The owner used to beat us if a single plant got missed. He used to beat us with pipes. We would get up at 4 in themorning and work for 12 hours a day…The partner of my farm owner used to switch off the lights at night andforcibly carry the girls sleeping on the floor, on to his cot.’
A B OY I N I N D I A W H O T R E K K E D H O M E T O R A JA S T H A N A F T E R S U F F E R I N G A B U S E I N G U JA R AT ’ S B T C O T T O N F I E L D S   .

Physical beatings and threats routinely accompany the work in many cotton fields. Under these conditions, children are unsurprisingly intimidated into staying on farms, fearful of the consequences of trying toleave. In Uzbekistan, those who fail to meet state-imposed quotas, or pick poorquality cotton, experience verbal or physical abuse, detention, or are told that
their school results will suffer; physical abuse is common for children acrossWest Africa. Girls in India, Pakistan and China have been reported to suffer
sexual harassment and even rape. A recent exposé by India’s TIMES NOW television channel, of child trafficking from Rajasthan to Gujarat’s Bt cotton fields,featured horrific accounts of abuse from children they encountered. Sexual
exploitation of young girls in the fields – reportedly by farm owners, their relatives or co-owners of the farms – is said to be ‘rampant’, and largely unreported.

Child labourers at risk
Around 22,000 children die every year
due to work-related incidents (across all
sectors), while child labourers are
involved in an estimated 17 million nonfatal accidents per annum49.

© G r e e n R u r a l D eve l o p m e n t O r g a n i z a t i o n , P a k i s t a n

Gender Division

Girl on Bt cotton seed farm inNorth Gujarat, September The gender divide is less evident incotton production in comparison withother sectors that involve child labour,
though some distinct patterns can beseen depending on the type of task andregion. In Burkina Faso, while girls
normally leave for cities and towns towork as domestic servants, boys are
considered more suitable for cotton-fieldlabour46. In India, by contrast, mostchildren working in the fields are girls,
accounting for around 67% of the children
working in cottonseed production47.
Cottonseed producers claim girls havegreater dexterity and patience, and are
more obedient and diligent, while
employers in Andhra Pradesh havepointed to the availability of girls, withboys more likely to go to school48. In othercases, no distinction can be found. In
Central Asia and China, for example,
whole school classes are sent to the fields
to pick cotton, regardless of gender.

© Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor Union                         C h i l d ’s w o r k‘We had to work until we felt weak.’B OY F R O M B U R K I N A FA S O  

BrazilMali● Manually harvest the cotton● Carry bags on their backs, andload them onto trucks ● A small
number assist with mechanised
harvesting Period Unavailable
Age group Unavailable● Plough ● Tend to seedbeds● Hoe ● Harvest ● Look after
cattle ● Help with distribution
Period June-Aug, Oct-Dec55,
younger children look after cattle
all year round, others 7-8
months/year; 8- to 10-hour days
with one hour for lunch56 Age 5-18

Burkina Faso
● Sow ● Weed ● Harvest ● Herd
animals Period Usually contracted
to work for full year; 6am-6pm, 7
days/week Age Boys 10+

China● Pick cotton ● Carry heavy loads(quotas are equivalent to 22
kilograms/day51) Period Sept/Oct;
6am-dark Age 6-18

Egypt
● All stages of production, mostsignificantly in cotton-worm
removal Period Usually from May;
8-11 hours/day, with lunch break, 7
days/week Age 7-12

Pakistan● Prepare land for cultivation(picking the remains of previouscrop) ● Sow ● Weed ● Water
fields ● Spray pesticides ● Pickcotton ● Cut cotton bushes● Spade work ● In ginning
factories Open bags of cotton;
spread cotton on platforms; throw
cotton into machines; push bales
out of factory; remove cotton seed
Period 8 months/year; some
reports of 7am-6/7pm without
breaks; others of freed children
working 2-5 hrs/day and bonded
children 4-7 hrs ● 12-hour shifts ingins Age 7+

India● Cross-pollinate plants,
emasculating and pollinating byhand ● Pull cotton from husks● Weed ● Carry water Period
July/Aug to Oct in Gujarat; 9-12
hours/day without breaks, somestarting at 4am ● Migrant children
in Andhra Pradesh generally 11-13
hours/day; local children 9-10
hours52 ● Mid-Aug to Oct for
about 100-120 days in Tamil Nadu
Age 9-14 in Gujarat; 14+ in Tamil
Nadu

Tajikistan● Gather cotton ● Weed
Period About 2 months/year57;
5 hours/day or more58, beginningfrom 6am Age Roughly 12-18

Turkey● Pick cotton ● Fill and carry fullsacks and load them onto trucks● Hoe ● Apply pesticides
Period May-Nov, for up to 60
days; majority work 12-15
hours/day, with lunch breakAge 6-17

Kazakhstan● Weed ● Collect worms● Gather cotton Period 7
days/week53; 10-12 hours/day:
7/8am-10pm in summer, 9am8/10pm in autumn, with a one-hour
lunch break54 Age 7-16, someyounger                        

Turkmenistan● Pick cotton Period Sept-Nov
Age Approx 10+

Uzbekistan● Spray pesticides ● Weed
● Pick cotton Period Up to 3
months/year, from beg June-end
Oct, 7am-5pm Age 7+

A c h i l d ’s c o t t o n w a g e‘What are our wages? I don’t know. I have never been to a town,
I haven’t seen any school, and don’t know about books.’E I G H T - Y E A R - O L D B O Y , P A K I S TA N  Andhra Pradesh, southern India
Child cotton workers are paid Rs 15-40 (40 cents
to $1) per day, around 30% less than adultwomen and 55% less than adult men. Advancewage arrangements are supposed to be bindingfor one season’s work only, but often children
are left in debt at the end of the season, andreturn to the same farm for many years in debtbondage60.

Benin
Aged between six and 17, children who
migrated to the main cotton-producing region in
the north of the country earned about US$105
for a season’s work in 2003, suffering harshconditions, and working on average 10 hours aday, without adequate nourishment61.

illness, such as heatstroke, the family must pay
the cost of medicine, which can equal one
month’s wages. Money can also be deducted
for the time off needed to recover66.

Gujarat, west India
Working for India’s largest cottonseed
producer, children are paid daily wages of Rs
4067-5268 (approx. US$1-1.30), which is settledwith the parents. Deductions are taken fromthis amount to cover provisions supplied at theworkplace, one-way transport to the fields, aswell as any expenses incurred for medicine69. Ifchildren leave in the middle of the season,
they will not receive anything for the work
they have done.

children have been reported to harvest 40%,for which they may receive $20 for three tofour months’ work76, if they are paid at all: anumber of schools in one major cottongrowing district are said to have deployedchildren as free farm labour, ‘because farmers
were no longer prepared to work for little or nomoney, or to accept payment in kind in theform of dried cotton stalks, used as fuel in the
Tajik countryside’77.

Tamil Nadu, India
Working 12 to an acre during floweringseason, girls in cottonseed production spend
very long hours in the field emasculating andpollinating flower buds by hand to earn aroundRs 60 ($1.50) per day78.

Kazakhstan
Burkina Faso
Cotton labourers earn far below the country’s
minimum wage. The youngest children, incharge of herding animals, earn as little as 75
euro/year. Older children may earn 90 to 105
euro per year (compared to adult wages ofabout 100-150 euro) if they stay for a full season,
although bosses may renege on the agreed
wage, paying instead for the amount of work
done; payment – sometimes in the form of abicycle – usually turns out to be less than what
was promised62. If a farmer claims to have notmade enough from the harvest, the children
must stay and work for another year before
receiving any money63.

China
Cotton farmers in one province are reported tohave paid 1 Yuan (roughly 13 US cents) for eachkilogram of cotton to schools for their pupils’labour. Some schools charged the children who
did not take part in the harvest, or forced themto pay for not meeting quotas64.

Egypt
Earnings fluctuate over the course of a season,
but the average daily wage has been estimatedto be about three Egyptian Pounds (about 50 US
cents)65. These low wages are often insufficient
to meet families’ food costs, and are far fromproportionate to the work performed,
particularly considering the harsh conditions
endured. Egyptian NGO Land Center for Human
Rights (LCHR) found that when a child suffers an

Picking 20-50 kg of cotton lint earns children in
the south of the country – mostly migrants
from Uzbekistan and Tajikistan – about $1-2 at
the end of a 12-to-15-hour working day before
joining their families to share a room with 1015 people70.

Mali
A number of child labourers, sent to the fields
by impoverished parents, receive a small bullin return for seven to eight months’ work for
cattle owners. Other children work seasonally,
missing school, to provide their families with a
few bags of grain71. Children who work
directly for their parents receive a new outfit
and pair of shoes once the cotton has been
sold72.

Pakistan
Where children are bonded to the fields
through family debt, they may not be paid at
all for their labour. Those who do get paid arereported to receive as little as 200 to 600 Pak
Rupees ($3.30-$10) per month73 for long daysin the sun, exposed to pesticides and other
health risks. In cotton factories, one childreported receiving PKR 65 ($1)/12 hours fortypically intense physical labour; his father
received double that amount for the samelength of time74.

Tajikistan
In a country where cotton is the main cash
crop, accounting for roughly 11% of GDP75,

TurkeyWages have been reported by ILO-IPEC to be
10 percent of the value of the cotton. A child’s
average earnings for the 2002 harvest were$131.10, based on the amount of cotton
picked, which varies depending on the child’s
age and physical strength. Wages of 90.1
percent of the children surveyed were turned
over to parents, with only 2.2 percent ofchildren able to choose how they disposed of
their income79.

Turkmenistan
Schoolchildren and students have traditionallyreceived very little, if anything, for their hard
work. Reports have emerged from the 2007
harvest that while children are generally nolonger instructed by the state to work in the
cotton harvest, teachers and otherprofessionals – bound by local officials andemployers – were hiring children under 18 towork the fields in their place, for which they
paid $1.20-$1.50 a day80.

Uzbekistan
Children earn in the region of five cents foreach kilo of cotton they pick81. Money due tothem is reduced for low-quality, damp
cotton82, while some children claim that they
are not paid anything at all once deductions forfood supplies and transport are made83. It has
been estimated that child-labour costs
constitute only 4% of the overall cotton
revenue children produce84.

                        Out of school‘At these summer camps, the schoolchildren worked liked adults fromsix in the morning onwards.’
M I R Z O F A T H U L L O E V, H E A D O F T H E D E PA R T M E N T F O R L AW S R E L A T I N G T O M I N O R S , K H A T L O N
R E G I O N A L P R O S E C U T O R ’ S O F F I C E , T A J I K I S TA N  It goes without saying that children at work are absent from the classroom.
An average of around % of child cotton workers in recently surveyed
areas of Mali attends school. In Central Asia, state and local authorities
have actively sanctioned the removal of children and teachers from classes – insome cases for three months of the school year – to meet the unrealistic stateimposed harvest quotas. In May  in Tajikistan, schoolchildren were sent
to work in the fields for no money under the guise of summer ‘holiday
camps’, while in the autumn  harvest in the Kyrgyz Republic, reports
emerged that classes were cancelled and school children sent to the fields.
Chinese schools in cotton-producing provinces, often chronically underfunded, have been responsible for sending tens of thousands of children topick the crop, as part of ‘work-study’ programmes, with those not finishing
the work having to pay for the shortfall. In , some , secondary
school and university students in China began their academic year in September by picking cotton. Schools have been reported to use the revenue to fundeducation expenses as well as to aid less advantaged pupils. In West-Africancountries, children sometimes work all year round. Where children migratewith families, schooling is clearly sacrificed: in Turkey, for example, the cotton
season runs from May to November, overlapping with the school year. As aresult, many end up not going to school at all.

G r ow i n g b o d i e s u n d e r a t t a c kIdentified as one of the three most dangerous sectors in the world in which
to work, agriculture exposes children to many threats to their health andsafety. They are required to use tools and machinery designed for adults; risk
damaging their growing spines and limbs from heavy lifting, awkward posturesand repetitive work; and come into direct contact with pesticides, fertilisersand crop dust, which are dangerous to their immature bodies, and which beara high risk of long-term chronic health effects. Many of the health problems
resulting from working in the cotton fields may not show up until the child isan adult. Children are forced to work physically harder than their bodies canmanage, and endure back injuries and permanent handicaps, but rarely receive
medical care for their injuries. The UN expressed concern in  about therisk to school-age children involved in Uzbekistan’s cotton harvest of contracting serious health problems including intestinal and respiratory infections,meningitis and hepatitis.
Child labourers across Asia and Africa are exposed to extreme temperatures.
While in some regions, tasks are carried out in gruelling heat – making children
susceptible to dehydration and sunstroke – the cotton harvest in other parts of
the world is approaching winter. When November temperatures drop to freezing, children in Central Asia are still in the fields, without appropriate equipment and clothing.
Cotton uses more insecticides than any other single crop; it is responsible
for the release of more than $ billion of chemical pesticides each year, of which
at least $ million are considered toxic enough to be classified as hazardousby the World Health Organization. In parts of Uzbekistan, Pakistan, Turkey
and India, children apply pesticides to the crop, while in many cotton-producing countries, children regularly come into contact with pesticides, or workin the cotton fields during, or following, the spraying season, when residue levels are high.

                          © GRDO‘Some agricultural activities –mixing and applying
pesticides, using certain typesof machinery – are so
dangerous that children should
be clearly prohibited fromengaging in them.’
P A RV I Z K O O H A F K A N , D I R E C T O R O F
FAO ’ S R U R A L D E V E L O P M E N T D I V I S I O N   

Poison Pesticides
How they operate: Pesticides aredesigned to kill, repel or inhibit thegrowth of living organisms, by impairing
the functioning of biological processes
essential for life, such as the nervous andreproductive systems106. These processes
are very often similar among different
organisms, whether insect or human.
Pesticides are particularly toxic tochildren, since their bodies are inherently
more vulnerable to the negative impactsof pesticides, due to their smaller size,
differing metabolism, and rapidly growing
and developing organ systems107.
Symptoms and effects of
exposure: Pesticide poisoning in adults
has been known to induce headaches,
vomiting, tremors, lack of coordination,difficulty breathing, loss of
consciousness, temporary loss of vision,
seizures and death108. Chronic effects oflong-term exposure include impaired
memory and concentration,
disorientation, severe depression andconfusion109. A recent study in California
suggests that exposure to two pesticides
may make women more likely to givebirth to children with autism110. The vast
majority of children EJF encountered on
an October 2007 fieldtrip in Andhra
Pradesh reported unpleasant side-effects,
including fainting and vomiting, fromworking on plants laden with pesticides,
while incidence of asthma, allergies andskin cancer from work in the cotton fields
has been reported in Brazil111.

© GRDOH OW D I D I E N D U P H E R E ?
‘We can’t afford adult workers. They charge three times more than childworkers...I can employ adults if companies pay me more.’
B T C O T T O N FA R M E R I N A N D H R A P R A D E S H   ‘For Rs 10, they do work worth
Rs 100 for us!’
FA R M E R F R O M A N D H R A P R A D E S H R E F E R R I N G
T O G I R L S WO R K I N G O N T H E FA R M   © EJF

he majority of cotton is produced in the world’s developing countries,where rural poverty undoubtedly propels children to the fields. Impoverished parents may be forced to send their children to work to supplement family income; cannot afford to send their children to school; or require
their assistance on family farms. The use of child labour can reinforce poverty
through its neglect of education, while also pushing down general wage levels
and leaving adults unemployed, as has been found in cottonseed production inIndia.
However, the circumstances under which children worldwide end up in cotton production are far from straightforward; they cannot simply be explainedby rural poverty, given the varying social contexts in the nations that employ
child labour. Social exclusion, inadequate employment and educational opportunities, and discrimination in societies that tolerate violations of child-labourlaws are all factors in child labour. Cultural norms can undermine perceptionsof the long-term value of education, especially for girls. Economist Jayati
Ghosh points out that four states – all cotton producers – that account for morethan  per cent of all the officially recorded child labour in India (Andhra
Pradesh, Karnataka, Maharashtra and Tamil Nadu) are among the richest in the
country. In Mali, where in some areas children represent approximately halfof the workforce in conventional cotton production, farmers can’t access credit
facilities, lack sufficient adult labour and suitable machinery, and make little
money from the crop, with prices pushed down due to developed-world subsidies.
On the demand side, children are said to be hired because they can be madeto work longer hours for less pay than adult workers, and less than minimum
wage. They are also easier to abuse: they will rarely receive non-wage benefits, such as medical insurance; and they are less likely to join trade unions or
insist that their rights be respected.

T                          Child labour in cotton production worldwide
Much of children’s work is covered in general agricultural statistics,
which makes it difficult to establish a comprehensive overview of theextent of child labour in cotton production. Disaggregated data forchild labour per commodity is generally not available, and where it
exists it is often not reliable124. Also, while many studies have been
conducted by international organisations on child labour in factories orother industries, cotton work in the fields has received less attention. It
is therefore not possible to give an overall figure for how many childlabourers are involved in cotton production, but the map on thesepages, with figures obtained from NGOs on the ground as well as
bodies like UNICEF, gives an indication of the scale in a number ofcountries.

West Africa

TurkeyEgypt

Poverty – exploited by traffickers –propels children to the cotton fields,
frequently across borders and far from
home, either with or without theirparents’ consent, where they must
often remain for months on end
before receiving payment. They
endure extremely long hours, someworking seven days a week, all year
round; are commonly exposed topesticides; are poorly nourished; andare often subjected to verbal andphysical abuse when they become too
tired to work. Some recall working
through the night125. In Mali,
economic, cultural and social reasonsmean that in some regions, children
represent approximately half of theworkforce in conventional cotton
production126.

A 2003 survey by ILO-IPEC in Ankara
identified thousands of children of
migrant families working alongside
their parents in a large cotton-growing
area in the south, to the detriment of
their education, with many droppingout of school altogether127. They
worked 12-hour days, seven days aweek, for an average of 47 days per
year harvesting the cotton. More than3000 children have been withdrawn
or prevented from working in cottonpicking due to IPEC and government
efforts128. However, newspaper
Milliyet reported that in a class in one
southeastern Anatolian city, 30 out of
35 pupils were out of school helping
their parents with the 2007 harvest129.

An estimated1,000,000
childrenbetween the© PA P h o t o sages of sevenand 12 are hired by Egypt’s
agricultural cooperatives to assist withcotton pest management every year.
Employed under the authority of
Egypt’s agriculture ministry, they work
11-hour days, with a one-to- two-hour
break, seven days a week. They faceroutine beatings from foremen, as
well as exposure to heat andpesticides130.

WEST AFRICA© AMADIP/EJF

BRAZIL

BrazilAlmost half of the country’s 2.7 million
child labourers aged 5-15 work inagriculture131, with possibly thousandsin cotton cultivation132. According to
ILO Brazil, most child labour in cotton
production takes place on small farms
where the children manually harvest
the cotton, and carry heavy loads ontheir backs. Some assist withmechanised cotton harvesting. The
children face a number of dangers
including exposure to chemicals, hardlabour, accidents and illness, such as
poisoning, asthma, allergies, cuts andskin cancer133.

                          

Kyrgyz Republic
Turkmenistan
While the mass mobilisation of school
children is said to have discontinued,
local witnesses reported that pupils
continued to work in the fields in the2006 harvest to help families134 or at
the instruction of the archin (head of
local council) via school directors,
after classes135. Teachers also
continued to be recruited136 – somepaying teenagers from low-income
families to work in their place137 –negatively impacting on an alreadyweakened education system.

Due to chronic poverty andunemployment, child labour is said to
be widespread, especially in thesouthern regions, where cotton andother crops are cultivated138. Acrossdifferent sectors, around 200,000
children are estimated to work insteadof attending school, making themsusceptible to serious illness andother dangers139. In 2004, almost all
the children living in rural areas weresaid to work on plantations, helping
their parents with a number of tasks
including irrigation, weeding andharvesting140.

Uzbekistan

Kazakhstan

China

Every year, rural schools are closed as
hundreds of thousands of children,some as young as seven, are sent tohelp pick the annual cotton harvest for
the world’s third largest cotton
exporter141. They endure hard andhazardous conditions and face verbal
and physical abuse, working 10 hours
a day142, picking up to 50 kilos ofcotton143.

Reliable official data is lacking, but
direct observations estimate thatchildren – some as young as six – canmake up to 60% of the cotton-field
workforce, many of them migrants
from other Central-Asian states suchas Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. They livewith their families close to the cotton
fields in poor housing, with 10-15
people in each room144.

For the world’s largest cotton
producer, and the biggest exporter oftextiles and garments145, tens of
thousands of children and students
have been removed from school toparticipate in ‘work-study’
programmes. In the 2006 harvest in
Gansu province, an estimated 40,000
primary- and middle-school pupils
were sent to pick cotton in the hot sun
during the school day, working for 10
days at a time. Those who didn’t finish
their work had to pay for the
shortfall146.

KAZAKHSTANUZBEKISTANTURKEYTURKMENISTANKYRGYZSTANTAJIKISTANCHINAPAKISTAN
EGYPT

INDIA

Pakistan
While nofigures areavailable on
the number ofchildrenworking in© Ann-Carin Landström,
Pakistan’s
BLLF Global
cotton fields,
it can be deduced to be significant,given that hundreds of thousands are
estimated to be trapped in debtbondage147. Children may make up
39% of the workforce in the case ofbonded families, and roughly 12% infamilies that aren’t indebted148.
Starting at around 7am, families workwithout breaks until evening in
midday temperatures of up to 50˚C,with no access to shade149. Many are
bonded to the fields by family debt,
incurred through advances bypowerful landowners to struggling
families. As a result, they receive noformal education, and have poor
access to health facilities150. In cottonginning factories, children spend longdays performing heavily physical work
for low wages without any health andsafety protection151.

Tajikistan
India
More than
400,000
children –mostly girls –are involved
in hybrid© T I M E S N OW, I n d i a
cottonseed
152
cultivation . They work between
nine and 13 hours a day for up to fourmonths per year (in cotton), missingout on schooling153. They toil under
hot sun, exposed to pesticides andvulnerable to physical andpsychological abuse, to crosspollinate Bt cotton on seed farms inAndhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu,
Karnataka and Gujarat (where almost
40% are below the age of 14154). In
parts of south Rajasthan, mostchildren aged 9-14 migrate to thefields for two to three months every
year155.

Despite the country’s ban on childlabour, as much as 72% ofschoolchildren in surveyed regions
participated in the 2003 cotton
harvest156, the majority working twomonths a year, according to a survey
conducted by the International
Organization for Migration (IOM) andthe “Pulse” Educational Reforms
Support Unit157. Observers noted thatout of some 210,000 cotton pickers in
one region, 150,000 wereschoolchildren from grades 6-11.
Agriculture accounts for almost onequarter of GDP158; however, as many
adults, particularly males, have left thecountry in search of better economic
opportunities, children and womenare often forced to fill the gap in thelabour force159. In 2007, police foundevidence that local authorities
instructed schools to send children towork in the fields, for little or nomoney, under the guise of summer‘holiday camps’160.

                          Middlemen transport children to the Bt cotton fields of northern Gujarat under cover of darkness to avoid detection.
© T I M E S N OW, I n d i aChildren on the move for cotton:a growing concern
India
The demand for malleable labour to meet the booming Bt cotton
industry in north Gujarat, which uses children for crosspollination work, has led to the migration of most children aged
9-14 from the tribal area of south Rajasthan for two to threemonths every year161. Dozens of trucks, crammed with minors,
cross over the border to Gujarat every night, under the cover of
darkness, during peak season162. A recent study in Tamil Nadu
has also reported the trafficking of children from Andhra Pradesh
for cottonseed cultivation163.

     : An average of  trucks a night cross over the border to
Gujarat in peak season, filled with children being brought towork in Gujarat’s cotton fields. This group was intercepted at
one of the inter-state border check posts set up by the Dakshini
Rajasthan Majdoor Union last year.
© Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor Union                          West Africa
While a long tradition of migration exists in West Africa, which is
acknowledged to be important in certain cases of employment,
education, foster care or well-being, the trafficking of young
children – defined by the Palermo Protocol as “the recruitment,
transport, transfer, harbouring or receipt of a child…for the
purpose of exploitation” – has increasingly gained recognition asa serious concern164. Cotton farming is blamed for childtrafficking to northern Benin165, where, among other social
factors, it is said to have proliferated with the decline in the priceof cotton166, the country’s main export. Anti-Slavery International
has reported that child-trafficking networks from Mali to Côte
d’Ivoire date back to the early 1990s, rooted in the demand forcheap labour on its cotton plantations167. In November 2006, theInternational Organization for Migration (IOM) expressed
concern at the exploitation of these Malian child cotton workers,
blaming a lack of awareness coupled with the abuse of ‘culturaland traditional beliefs’168.
Researchers have, nonetheless, pointed to the difficulty inclassifying clear cases of trafficking (given varying definitions andsocio-economic and cultural contexts) for cotton in West
Africa169. Children are likely to be exploited in some form, butmany – through lack of education or access to alternatives –travel voluntarily (having been solicited) to work in the cotton
fields170. In Burkina Faso – the largest cotton producer in subSaharan Africa171 – a large proportion of boys migrate within the
country to the major cotton-producing areas, working on smallfamily farms172. A study in Eastern Burkina – where migration,
particularly among very young children, was once the exception– estimates that at least 50% of the boys aged between 10 and 18
in the Piéla region had spent at least one year working away fromhome in the south of the country and in Benin173. Meanwhile, arecent report on cotton production in Mali highlighted the plightof children sent by impoverished parents to work for otherfarmers174. While other children worked on family farms, either
to support parents, or through cultural tradition, those working
away from home were particularly vulnerable to abuse, with
farmers regarding them merely as one-half of a transaction175.

Migration and trafficking
Studies conducted in Turkey, West Africa, India, Pakistan and Kazakhstan
demonstrate that migration often leads children to the cotton fields. Migrantfamilies working seasonally constitute the majority of agricultural workers in
Peru, also a cotton producer. In the cotton-growing areas in southern Turkey,
many children of migrant farm workers work alongside their parents, moving
with them from their home villages according to crop cycles. ILO-IPEC in
Ankara has reported that exhaustive travelling; living outdoors in unsanitaryconditions; poor nutrition; lack of access to health services; and the impossibility of continuing with their education ‘all take their toll on these children’.
Children don’t always travel with family: they move within and between WestAfrican countries, and from across borders in India, sometimes through theagreement, or at the behest, of parents, or in some cases lured by middlemen with the promise of presents, without their parents’ consent. Children
can work in cotton production for  months or more for the promise of a bicycle or their return ticket home. Isolated from their family, community and culture, children who migrate for work are often under traffickers’ or employers’
control, vulnerable to abuse and exploitation. They become entirely dependent on their bosses, effectively working as bonded labourers, as payment can beheld until the end of their ‘contract’, and intimidated into staying through fearof being beaten.

Bonded to the fields
Centuries-old local practices and social hierarchies that tolerate discriminationof certain groups are also at play. In parts of Pakistan, child labour is perpetuated through debt-bondage or other types of exploitation. Though bonded
labour is prohibited under Pakistani law, reports prevail about families working unpaid on the cotton fields of large landowners, sometimes for generations. These Haris, or debt-bonded, landless workers – many of them Dalits(‘untouchables’) – effectively live in slave-like conditions. Many Haris are born
into bondage, and never receive any kind of education, which leaves them
unable to calculate their debt or the wages they earn. If not born into bondage,
Pakistan’s poorest, most marginalised populations may be driven by financial
difficulties to seek help in emergencies from landowners who offer them peshgi,
or advanced wages, and require their labour in return until the debt is repaid.
In India, too, many children are bonded to the fields. Loans are extended byseed producers to parents at a crucial time in summer, when work is unavailable, and when they are most likely to face financial problems. Advance wage
arrangements are supposed to be binding for one season’s work only, but often
children are left still owing at the end of the season, with some remaining in
supposed debt and returning to the same farm for many years to clear it. One
study in  found that the majority of these children are from the lower
castes, while most farmers belong to upper castes.

A child’s story
Life for a cotton labourer in Sindh province, Pakistan193: I ameight years old. I have four brothers and sisters. My parents
are peasants. We are sharecroppers. My mother told me that
we have been living here for two generations. I, along withmy parents and siblings, work in the cotton field. I support myparents in sowing, weeding and cotton-picking. All themembers of our family are bound to be in the field from dawn
to dusk. The land-owner told me that we have to pay him
back 65,000 rupees [roughly £500] before we can movesomewhere else…What are our wages? I don’t know. I havenever been to a town, I haven’t seen any school, and don’tknow about books. (Interview conducted by GRDO)     : Many poor Hari families, exploited bypowerful landowners, are exposed totemperatures of up to °C as they work longhours in Pakistan’s cotton fields.
© Ann-Carin Landström‘Our family’s livelihood depends
upon the wages of my father andme. As our area is barren, to earn
our livelihood we always travel to
Sindh province seasonally.’F O U R T E E N - Y E A R - O L D , P A K I S TA N   

An eight-year-old
weeding in a cotton
field in Sindh
Province, Pakistan,© GRDO                          © EJF‘Children are being employed primarily because they can be paid very
low wages and made to work very long hours.’
S U D H I R K A T I YA R , WO R K E R S ’ R I G H T S A C T I V I S T , I N D I A   State-orchestrated
Children and teachers in Central Asia are forced to participate in state-orchestrated labour for certain periods, with little choice but to join in order to avoid
retribution. The cotton harvest has traditionally removed children from theschools for up to three months of the year, and in countries like Turkmenistan, teachers and teenage students have been compelled to assist, thus further impacting on children’s education. In Uzbekistan, despite the hard andhazardous work, threats of expulsion from school or other types of punishment keep many children in the fields. Those who fail to meet their quotas
or pick poor-quality cotton are reportedly punished by scolding, beatings ordetention, or told that their school marks will suffer.

State-set prices
Governments in Central Asia control cotton production, dictating quotas andsetting prices – often at a much lower rate than the world market – with farmers consequently struggling to pay their costs. Workers have been consistently abused by authoritarian political systems in order to ensure the production of cotton at very low prices and to maximise the revenue of the state elite.

Squeezed by subsidies
World market prices and government support, notably to farmers in the US,
China and the EU, cannot be discounted when examining the causes ofchild labour in cotton production. Many developing countries rely heavily on
cotton for export earnings (e.g., cotton is Burkina Faso’s primary source of
foreign-exchange earnings), but have to compete with subsidised farmers –paid for each additional bushel they produce – who dump their surplus on theinternational market, thereby lowering prices farmers in developing countries
can obtain. According to Oxfam International, US cotton producers received
US$. billion in federal subsidies in -, while sub-Saharan Africa had
lost more than US$ million as a result of depressed world prices. A                          ‘Work-study’ courtesy of
the world’s largest cotton
producer
As the world’s largest textile exporter199,
and biggest cotton producer, importerand consumer, China’s cotton supply anddemand have a significant impact on theworld market, including on westernconsumers: its extensive production andre-export are helping to drive theprovision of cheap clothes on the highstreet. But farmers in China’s largest
cotton-producing region, Xinjiang200,
have no choice regarding what they cangrow, while they are forced to sell backthe cotton at prices set by thegovernment201. In Xinjiang and bordering
Gansu province, tens of thousands ofschool children and students have been
sent to the cotton fields during the annual
harvest, under the auspices of ‘workstudy’ programmes202. Though initiallydesigned to offer students a degree ofvocational training, these schemes are
now reportedly extensively abused, andthe China Labour Bulletin reports that inmany cases, it has become impossible todistinguish work-study from childlabour203. Though China has ratified
relevant ILO Conventions, many childworkers fall outside the domestic legal
definitions of child labour204. It is
impossible to accurately assess the extent
of child labour in China, given that‘undisclosed information and data on thehandling of child labour cases nationwide’
is classified by the Chinese governmentas ‘highly secret’ (jimi)205.

recent study by Oxfam America found that the removal of US cotton
subsidies would push up the world price of cotton by -%; the price WestAfrican farmers receive by -%; and would cause household income to riseby .-.%. The resulting additional revenue could help cover schoolingcosts, food supplies, health care and school fees for at least two million
children living in extremely poor West-African cotton-growing households,
and therefore remove or reduce the need for child labour and the cycle ofpoverty it helps perpetuate.

Low prices for cottonseed
Multinational and local companies selling seeds in India have also been accusedof perpetuating child labour. Some have related the dramatic losses farmers
face to the introduction and use of Bt cotton, a genetically-engineered crop
designed to be resistant to the bollworm.
Local seed farmers produce patented hybrid seeds owned by seed companies, which are bought back through middlemen. The price at which the farmers sell back the seed – the procurement price – is set by the seed companies,who sell the seeds on the commercial cotton production market for up to 
times the procurement price. But despite low, or falling, prices for farmers,
input costs have been rising, while output has been declining due to crop failure, plunging them into crippling debt. The burden of mounting costs hasbrought suicide among cotton farmers to overwhelming proportions in someIndian villages, particularly in Maharashtra state. Between  and ,farmers’ input costs were reported to have risen -%, whilst the procurement price paid by the majority of seed companies remained unchanged.
Farmers consequently regard child labour as an efficient way of keeping costs
down in order to retain competitiveness.
In the state of Andhra Pradesh, increased pressure from local and international NGOs has forced the cottonseed industry to address the problem of childlabour in its supply chains, and some progress has been made through a joint
action plan involving Bayer, Syngenta and Emergent Genetics (Monsanto).
Due to reported problems with the implementation of the project, however,Indian NGO MV Foundation withdrew from joint inspections of farms.
Recent correspondence between Monsanto and Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor
Union (South Rajasthan Labour Union) about the problems of child labour in
Gujarat’s cottonseed industry gives little indication that the corporation intends
to address the issue in that part of the country in the near future.
The high incidence of child labour has been blamed in the past for changing the working culture and social norms, making children, particularly girls,
responsible for family income. Organisations, such as the MV Foundation,argue that the problem of child labour will only increase unless seed companies
adequately address the discrepancy between production costs and procurement
prices.

Lacking legislation
Although almost every country has laws prohibiting the employment of children below a certain age, the legislation may exempt certain sectors, often
where the highest numbers of working children are found. In , for example, India strengthened child-labour legislation by widening its definition of
hazardous work to include domestic labour and catering establishments, thus
implementing a country-wide ban on children below  working in those sectors. The law – effective from October  – fell short, however, of including
agriculture, deemed by the ILO as one of the world’s three most dangerous
work activities, and which accounts for roughly % of the country’s estimated million child labourers. Similarly,  amendments to Egypt’s labour law
banning under-s from working excluded children in agriculture. In several
countries, legislation is often not enforced.

‘With prices we get fromcompanies we cannot afford to
employ adult labour. Though
our costs are increasing every
year companies are not coming
forward to increase theirprocurement price…Our profit
margins have come down
drastically during last one
decade but companies are able
to increase their profit
margin.’ 228

Forced or bonded labour
Both forced and bonded labour fallunder ILO Convention 182 on the
Worst Forms of Child Labour, while also
being covered under other specificconventions. According to the ILO
Forced Labour Convention, 1930,
forced or compulsory labour is definedas ‘all work or service which is exacted
from any person under the menace ofany penalty and for which the said
person has not offered himself
voluntarily’.
Bonded labour, which affects
millions of children around the world, isa form of forced labour, but where theelement of coercion results from a debt
incurred. A family will receive an
advance payment – sometimes aminimal amount – to hand a child overto an employer. In most cases the childcannot work off the debt, and may end
up trapped in debt-bondage for years,
with the family unable to raise enoughmoney to remove the child. ‘Expenses’
and/or ‘interest’ are deducted from achild’s earnings, adding to theimpossibility that the debt will be
repaid229. In some cases, the bondage ispassed down through generations,where, for example a child’s
grandfather or great-grandfather owed
a debt to an employer, with theunderstanding that each generation
would provide the employer with a newworker – often with no pay at all.
Bonded labour is outlawed by the 1956
U.N. Supplementary Convention on the
Abolition of Slavery, the Slave Trade,and Institutions and Practices Similar to
Slavery.

                          

Fo c u s o n U z b e k i s t a n‘We serve the state when we pick cotton.’-YEAR-OLD GIRL, NAMANGAN REGION

Uzbek children – some as young as seven – are drafted as cheap or free labour during theannual cotton harvest. Although child labour is common in many countries, in Uzbekistan it isat the behest of the government and public employees. In short, thousands of children areordered to pick a crop that provides millions of pounds in revenue to sustain a totalitarianregime.
Although prohibited under the Uzbek constitution, child labour among under-16s andcompulsory labour for young adults is widespread. The President Karimov government denies
that it is official policy, claiming that children volunteer out of loyalty to family or for the benefitof the community, and blame is apportioned to parents.
While it is true that traditionally, children in poorer rural households have worked tosupplement family income by helping on family-owned plots, strictly-imposed quotas oblige
families and whole villages to work the land. Under pressure to meet state-set quotas, local
officials order schools and universities to close during the harvest, and require pupils andteachers alike to work in the fields. Failure to participate can result in fines, being held back inschool, suspension or even expulsion. Recent reports have emerged that the National Security
Service (SNB) was deployed in 2007 to ensure secondary-school pupils and university
students participated in the harvest231, with large convoys of buses ferrying teenagers underpolice supervision during school hours232.
Children can miss up to three months’ education as schools are closed and they aredespatched to the cotton fields. They pick cotton during the autumn harvest, and weed thefields. In some areas, they have been required to apply pesticides to the growing crop with noprotection.
© EJF‘Even in Soviet
times there was hotlunch for the cotton
pickers. Here they
have bread and tea
in plastic
bottles.’233

                          

It’s so hot in thefields and thechemicals burnyour skin if they
touch it.’235© EJF

Local children are able to return home in the evening, but those conscripted to work inremoter areas are forced to endure poor living conditions near the fields, at times drinking
irrigation water and with insufficient or poor-quality food to eat. Some children recount how
they sleep in barracks with no electricity, windows or doors for weeks at a time, despite theend of the harvest coinciding with the onset of Uzbekistan’s winter. Some have to pay for theirown food; how much they get to eat depends on how much they earn in the fields.
Children can be left exhausted and in poor health after weeks of arduous labour. One
human-rights organisation confirmed the deaths of eight Samarkand children and students
while picking cotton over a two-year period; many more suffer illness and malnutrition234. The
conditions can give rise to chronic diseases including intestinal and respiratory infections,meningitis and hepatitis. Those who fail to meet their quotas or pick poor-quality cotton arereportedly punished by scolding, beatings, detention or told that their school grades will
suffer.
It is impossible to establish the precise number, but tens of thousands of children are likely
to be involved for several weeks during the annual harvest. In October 2004, a minister withthe public education department reportedly admitted that at least 44,000 senior pupils andstudents were harvesting the cotton. However, these official figures may fall far short of thereality: three years previously, 198,055 school children, and more than 13,000 (perhaps as
many as 17,000) students were reported working in the Ferghana region alone236.
Depending on their age and the stage of the harvest, children can pick between 10 and 50
kilos of cotton each day. Child labour is immensely profitable: a child may be paid in the regionof five cents per kilo237 for a product that is estimated to be worth around US$1.56 in
2007/2008 on the global marketplace238. Money is subtracted for low-quality or damp cotton.
Some children claim that they are not paid anything once deductions for food, supplies andtransport are made, and parents note that payment often falls far below the costs of replacing
clothes damaged while picking cotton239. It is clear that the wealth of ‘white gold’ is notbringing benefit or development to the rural communities and children who shoulder theburden of the harvest.
Despite international condemnation of its policy of using child labour, and an appeal from18 Uzbek NGOs for a ban on children harvesting cotton and for western traders to avoid
buying Uzbek cotton, the practice continues. One expert cited production quotas as partly toblame: “As long as these are in place and as long as local appointed administrators feel theirsurvival depends on meeting them, this [child labour] will continue”.
In the absence of economic reforms and pressure from the international community, theexploitation of Uzbek children in order to meet the needs of the ruling elite will likely persist.
The Fourth International Cotton and Textile Conference, held in Tashkent in September 2007,
and attended by hundreds of participants from more than 30 countries, indicates thewillingness of traders and other business interests to continue cooperating with the Uzbek
regime for the sake of profit; therefore, EU sanctions must continue to be used to leveragechange.

                          

T H E B U S I N E S S O F C OT TO N
‘We buy our cotton from government agencies
and don’t know what happens in the fields.’
T H O M A S R E I N H A R T , P A U L R E I N H A R T AG   Cheap cotton clothing on the high street comes courtesy of a $ billion industry that is being supported by child pickers earning pennies, who may receive
almost  times less than the market price. Few clothing brands and retailers will
admit to relying on the direct or indirect benefits of child labour. Large companies
increasingly use the term ‘corporate social responsibility’; however, little attention has
been paid to the conditions beyond the factory level.

‘Complex’ supply chain
The failure of producers, traders and, in particular, retailers, to carry out comprehensive audits of suppliers, demand transparency, and track their supply chain means that
products made using child labour can easily enter the main western consumer markets. When conventional cotton leaves the field, it passes through several hands before
making its way to the end-consumer, but the often opaque nature of the supply chain
provides retailers and suppliers with a convenient excuse. Hiding behind a ‘complex
supply chain’ allows them to avoid seeking direct assurance that their products are freefrom child labour (or other abuses), thereby denying consumers the possibility of making more informed choices. It is entirely possible, particularly for major retailers, toestablish the source of the cotton fibre. Market leaders in tracking supply in the cottongarment industry, such as Continental Clothing, are now emerging, and proving to themarket that supply can be cheaply and effectively monitored – if the will to do so exists.

Commercial exploitation
Where companies are aware of the existence of child labour in the supply chain, thepractice continues. The cottonseed industry in India has demonstrated that it will only
take responsibility when pressured to do so, and even then, its efforts have been lacking. In Andhra Pradesh, the number of children working in the sector has declined
slightly (possibly due to initiatives to eliminate child labour, coupled with poor weather
conditions that have affected the harvest). However, in other states, like Karnataka,
Gujarat (now the country’s largest cottonseed producer) and Tamil Nadu, where Bayerand Monsanto are reportedly substantially increasing their seed sourcing, the problem
has not been addressed. In fact, a recent field report concluded that overall, the number of children employed in the sector in India is on the increase.
Seed companies are profiting from this army of underpaid labourers: the estimatedsize of India’s seed market this year is around $. billion — the sixth highest in theworld. Yet the children employed in hybrid seed production earn as little as  centsfor an arduous -hour day. Studies estimate that if the extra production-cost burden for
adult labour were to be carried by the farmer, it would lead to a decrease in profit margin by an estimated %; if the seed company carried the burden, their profit margins
would decrease by roughly -%.

Cotton traders
Cotton is one of the most traded agricultural raw materials246. Some of the world’s largest
cotton traders – Allenberg, Louis Dreyfus, Cargill, Dunavant, Plexus Cotton and Reinhart247 –are privately owned, meaning they are subjected to limited public scrutiny, and since they are
generally not familiar household names, are unlikely to experience consumer pressure todemonstrate their ethical standards. They have so far failed to acknowledge the conditions in
the fields, and appear to operate on a ‘don’t know, don’t care’ basis248. Retailers and designers,
for the most part, have equally failed to give much consideration to conditions in the fields.

                          

Cleaning up cotton
Our desire for cheap cotton is forcing
children into the fields, but rather than
avoiding the material altogether, weneed ethically and sustainably
produced cotton that doesn’t involve
child labour. Cotton remains a highly
important source of income to many
countries, in particular in thedeveloping world. The growth of
ethical consumerism has prompted arising interest in organic and fair tradecotton, which represents a crucial way
forward.
Though certified organic cotton
currently only represents around 0.1%of the cotton grown worldwide249, themarket for organic and fairly tradedcotton – credited with being moretransparent and sustainable options –has sky-rocketed in recent years.
Global organic cotton-fibre supply
grew by 392% between the 2000-01
and 2004-05 harvests, and is now
produced in more than 20 countries250.
Organic Exchange estimates that
global sales of organic cotton products
will leap from $583m in 2005 to $2.6bn
by the end of 2008, reflecting a 116
percent average annual growth rate251.
Fairtrade-certified cotton was launchedin the UK in November 2005, and hassince experienced substantial growth.
In 2006, cotton sales soared by almost
4,000% in volume, and by around3,000% in value252.
Neither certified organic or
Fairtrade cotton, which requirecompliance with ILO standards, permit
child labour253. Companies are
required to develop or contribute topolicies that provide for the transitionof any child found to be performing
labour unacceptable under ILO
conventions to quality education254.
The premiums provided to farmers
engaging in organic production canalso have added benefits for children if
invested sustainably. If education
becomes more affordable, children areless likely to be pushed into theworkforce255.

© Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor UnionC O N C LU S I O NAll around the world, children are working in appalling, unreasonable conditions to provide us with a product for which we are often paying unreasonably and artificially low
prices. Most children in the EU have access to education, but in many developing countries, children are kept from school to toil in the cotton fields. Worse, they are exposed to dangerous work practices and hazardous pesticides, are sometimes parted from their families forlong periods, and face significant risk of physical or sexual abuse. They are beyond the protection of UN and ILO conventions and national legislation.
The widespread use of child labour is effectively subsidising the lucrative cotton industry. The
more powerful actors in the supply chain are profiting from the unfair prices many smallholder
farmers in developing countries receive for their produce, and the low or nonexistent wages paid
to child workers and their families. As the governments of developing countries attempt to pulltheir nations out of poverty through cotton, the production of the crop is having the opposite
effect for farmers, who continue to struggle to make ends meet, with low prices compounded
by a lack of finance and access to adequate machinery and labour. Children are carrying the burden of poverty and other socio-economic circumstances – being forced to work to support theirfamilies – as well as cultural norms that overlook their plight.
While it is difficult to trace cotton to its source, it is entirely possible – organic cotton brands
have proven it is feasible. Consumers have enormous potential to influence the way in which
the trade is conducted. Even if effective monitoring engenders significant costs, the potential
to positively transform the lives of millions of children means they can legitimately be passed
onto the consumer. Where companies are failing, regulations must be implemented. Organicand Fairtrade cotton are welcome initiatives in the drive towards child-labour-free cotton, butwith a tiny proportion of the market, it is clear that political will, coupled with pressure on
clothing suppliers, are crucial to ensure children are kept from the fields in the cotton industry.
At the national levels, cotton-producing countries must guarantee the rehabilitation of children who have been removed from hazardous labour, and facilitate their transition to full education.
Most importantly, as long as retailers and consumers continue to purchase cotton productsthat fail to identify the source of the cotton, and are not guaranteed to have been made without child labour at any stage in the process, we continue to fuel this false economy that deprives
children of their childhood, and developing countries of an educated future generation.
                          © AMADIP/EJF

R E C O M M E N DAT I O N S
Consumers● Pick your cotton carefully: Refuse to buy cotton products without the certain knowledge and assurance

from the retailer that they have been produced without causing environmental destruction or human rights
abuse – specifically child labour.
● Call upon manufacturers and retailers to provide this assurance, and swiftly develop a clear labelling systemthat states the country of origin of the cotton fibre, and guarantees that neither child nor forced labour isused at any stage of the supply chain.
● Choose products that have been independently certified as organic or Fairtrade, or choose recycled cotton

products wherever possible.

Retailers/Traders● Collaborate with manufacturers, NGOs and local producers to develop an effective, transparent product-

labelling system that guarantees that forced child labour has not been used at any stage of the supply chain,and that shows the country of origin of the cotton fibre.
● Take immediate steps to make as much information as possible available to customers about the origin of

all cotton products (not only the country of manufacture of the item).
● Undertake an independent review of cotton suppliers, and seek assurances that the cotton is produced inaccordance with international labour norms. When assurances cannot be provided, alternative suppliers
should immediately be sought.
● Engage with civil-society groups in joint efforts to improve working conditions and remuneration on cotton

farms.
● Actively support and move toward organic and fairly traded cotton, thereby responding to market demand

while stimulating production and supply.

European Union and its Members● Promulgate a regulation prohibiting the import into the EU of cotton and cotton-related products that havebeen produced using child labour.
● Directly engage the government of Uzbekistan in reforming labour conditions and environmental concerns

in the production of cotton.
                          Governments● Ratify and fully implement ILO Convention No.  on the Elimination of the Worst Forms of Child Labour;

adhere to the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child.
● Support independent investigations of labour abuses. Provide an enabling environment for independent

industry and labour rights bodies to monitor and report on labour conditions in the cotton sector.
● Work within the framework of the World Trade Organization (WTO) to introduce conditions on trade thatwould penalise manufacturers and producers who use or tolerate child labour.
● Consider incentive-based reforms, such as providing non-discriminatory subsidies to farmers who can demon-

strate that they do not use child labour, thereby shifting the competitive advantage to responsible producers.

The European Parliament, Commission and Council of Ministers● Pass a parliamentary resolution calling for a near-term EU prohibition – beginning with an immediate phase-out – on cotton products made using child labour, explicitly referring to Uzbekistan and additionally seeking the introduction of and promoting an EU-wide scheme for the labelling of imported goods to show thatthey have not been produced using child labour at any stage of the supply chain. This will build on the EU
Parliamentary Resolution ( July ) calling for an end to exploitation and child labour in developing countries.
The Parliament should consider developing a regulation to make this EU law.
● Promote the introduction via the WTO of a ban on child labour in trade.
● Seek direct critical address from national governments toward the cotton sector in Uzbekistan and its envi-

ronmental and human rights abuses.
● Press the European Commission to investigate the creation of EU-level legal mechanisms, which will iden-

tify and prosecute importers within the EU importing products that allow the violation of core ILO conventions, including child labour. The use of child labour in the supply chain would be enough to constitutea violation.
● Seek the withdrawal of the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development from future and existing

cotton-related projects in Uzbekistan.

UN Agencies● Ensure that within the context of the one UN system, greater co-ordinated efforts are made by ILO, UNICEF,

FAO and IFAD to eliminate child labour in cotton production.

International Agricultural Partnership for Agriculture Without Child Labour● Guarantee that the International Agricultural Partnership, launched in , between ILO, FAO, Consul-

tative Group on International Agricultural Research (CGIAR)/International Food Policy Research Institute(IFPRI), International Federation of Agricultural Producers (IFAP) and International Union of Food, Agricultural, Hotel, Restaurant, Catering and Tobacco and Allied Workers’ Association (IUF) recognises cotton
as a central issue, and acts to tackle child labour in cotton production.

International Investment Houses, Banks and Foreign Investors● Seek specific assurances that investment portfolios are not supporting manufacturers or retailers of cotton

products that have involved child labour at any stage of the supply chain.
● Cease to invest in initiatives involving Uzbek cotton, and establish policies denying funds to projects that gen-erate revenue for the Uzbek administration.
● Support civil-society efforts to increase transparency in cotton procurement.

International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC)● Instigate a process of assessment whereby the social and environmental impacts of cotton production areevaluated for each member state, and findings made public to investors and importers.
● Support the development of a global labelling scheme that guarantees that products have been produced

without the use of child or forced labour at each stage of the supply chain and production process.
● As a minimum requirement, work to ensure that the procurement and sale of cotton fibre or products on

the open market be accompanied by the country-specific information.

                          REFERENCES
1 A child is defined as a person less than  years of age.
2 ILO-IPEC, “Tackling hazardous child labour in agriculture: Guidance on policy and practice” User Guide(). The ILO’s target is the elimination of the worst forms of child labour by .
3 “Agriculture accounts for  percent of child labour worldwide”, (Rome: FAO Newsroom,  September), http://www.fao.org/newsroom/en/news///index.html
4 EJF communication Gerd Walter-Echols, FAO-EU IPM Programme for Cotton in Asia ( May ).
5 Ibid; John Baffes, “Cotton and Developing Countries: A Case Study in Policy Incoherence” (World Bank, September ).
6 “Environmental Education for Poor Farmers”, FAO-EU IPM Programme for Cotton in Asia (),https://www.ippc.int/servlet/BinaryDownloaderServlet?filename=_FAO_EU_Cotton_ipm_programme.pdf
7 EJF comm. Gerd Walter-Echols, op cit.
8 Ibid.
9 EJF comm. John Baffes, Senior Economist, World Bank ( May ).
10 Francesca Mancini et al. “Acute pesticide poisoning among female and male cotton growers in India”,
International Journal of Occupational Environmental Health () II: -,
http://www.ijoeh.com/pfds/IJOEH__Mancini.pdf; EJF fieldwork in Andhra Pradesh (October );World Health Organization, Healthy Environments for Children Alliance, “Issue Brief Series: Pesticides”,
http://www.who.int/heca/infomaterials/pesticides.pdf; International Crisis Group (ICG), “The Curse of
Cotton: Central Asia’s Destructive Monoculture” (): ; EJF, “White Gold: The True Cost of Cotton”(): .
11 Save the Children UK, The Small Hands of Slavery (),http://www.savethechildren.it//download/slavery/ChildSlaveryBrieffinal.pdf
12 Ibid.
13 Ibid.
14 ILO, ILOLEX: Database of ILO Standards, http://www.ilo.org/ilolex/index.htm
15 International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour (IPEC), ”About Child Labour”,
http://www.ilo.org/ipec/facts/lang—en/index.htm
16 ILO-IPEC, http://www.ilo.org/ipec/areas/Agriculture/lang—en/index.htm
17 UN Convention on the Rights of the Child (), http://www.ohchr.org/english/law/pdf/crc.pdf
18 ILO, op cit.
19 International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour (IPEC) and Statistical Information andMonitoring Programme on Child Labour (SIMPOC), “Every Child Counts: New Global Estimates on Child
Labour” (Geneva: International Labour Office, April ).
20 ILO, “The end of child labour: Within reach” (Geneva: International Labour Office, ).
21 UNICEF, “Child Protection Information Sheet: Child Labour”.
22 ILO-IPEC, op cit.
23 United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), Foreign Agricultural Service, Circular Series FOP -,“Cotton: World Markets and Trade” (October ), / season estimates,
http://www.fas.usda.gov/psdonline/psdgetreport.aspx?hidReportRetrievalName=BVS&hidReportRetrievalID=&hidReportRetrievalTemplateID= (accessed  October ).
24 Calculated based on International Cotton Advisory Committee forecast of Cotlook A index of  cents perpound for /, ICAC press release ( October ).
25 ILOLEX: Database of International Standards, Ratifications of the Fundamental Human Rights
Conventions by Country, http://www.ilo.org/ilolex/english/docs/declworld.htm (accessed  August ).
26 Roli Srivastava, “Withering cotton kids”, Mumbai Mirror,  September .
27 UNCTAD, Infocomm, Market Information in the Commodities Area (), http://www.unctad.org/infocomm/anglais/cotton/uses.htm; National Cotton Council of America, “Cotton: From Field to Fabric”,
http://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/fieldtofabric/upload/Cotton-From-Field-to-Fabric-k-PDF.pdf
28 World Trade Organization (WTO), “International Trade Statistics ” ().
29 Gilberto Gambini, “Statistics in Focus: EU- Trade in Textiles ” (European Communities: Eurostat,).
30 Taking an average of figure of EUR billion from Gambini, op cit. and EUR. billion from European
Commission, Textiles and Clothing Statistics, http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/textile/statistics.htm (accessed
October ).
31 Gambini, op cit.; European Commission, op cit.
32 Rajabi Zainiddin, “Tajik Prosecutors Investigate Child Labour Claims”, Institute for War & Peace Reporting, July , http://iwpr.net/?p=rca&s=f&o=&apc_state=henh (accessed August/September ).
33 E-mail comm. Karam Saber, Executive Manager, Land Center for Human Rights, Cairo, Egypt; Human
Rights Watch (HRW), “Underage and Unprotected: Child Labour in Egypt’s Cotton Fields”, January , Vol.
, No. (E), http://www.hrw.org/reports/pdfs/e/egypt/egypt.pdf
34 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour and Trans-National Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh” (India Committee of the Netherlands (ICN), ).
35 Green Rural Development Organization (GRDO), “Child Labor in Cotton Production” (); Howard W.
French, “Fast Growing China Says Little of Child Slavery’s Role”, The New York Times,  June ,http://www.nytimes.com////world/asia/china.html?ex=&en=aefadfada&ei=; Personal comm. Sudhir Katiyar, labour rights activist, Gujarat,  June .
36 EJF, “White Gold: The True Cost of Cotton” ().
37 Kari Hauge Riisøen, Anne Hatløy and Lise Bjerkan, “Travel to Uncertainty: A Study of Child Relocation in
Burkina Faso, Ghana and Mali” (Norway: Fafo, ): ,.
38 Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, reporter, TIMES NOW, India ( August ).
39 Angela Baschieri and Jane Falkingham, “Child Poverty in Tajikistan” (UNICEF, January ).
40 Megha Prasad, “Child Labour in Bt Cotton Fields”, TimesNow.tv,  August ,http://www.timesnow.tv/NewsDtls.aspx?NewsID=
41 EJF, op cit., 
42 Albertine De Lange, “Going to Kompienga: A Study of Child Labour Migration and Trafficking in Burkina
Faso’s South-Eastern Cotton Sector” (Amsterdam: IREWOC, ), ; Anti-Slavery International, “Traffickingof children in West Africa – focus on Mali and Côte d’Ivoire” (),http://www.antislavery.org/archive/other/trafficking-children-wafrica.htm; Pers. comm. Moctar Coulibaly,
President, AMADIP ( September ); Hauge Riisøen, op cit.
43 Prasad, op cit.; “Xinjiang Children Forced to Work in Cotton Fields”, Radio Free Asia,  Sept ,http://www.rfa.org/english/news/social////uyghur_labor/; Sudhir Katiyar, “Wages of Adolescence:
Annual Exodus of Tribal Adolescents from South Rajasthan to Bt Cotton Seed Plots of North Gujarat” ().
44 Prasad, op cit.
45 Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, op cit.
46 De Lange, op cit., ; Anne Kielland and Ibrahim Sanogo, “Burkina Faso: Child Labor Migration from Rural
Areas, the magnitude and the determinants” (World Bank and Terre des Hommes, ).
47 Figure calculated from taking averages of four regions surveyed in Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Bondage
Continues in Indian Cotton Supply Chain” (September ).
48 MV Foundation, “Girl Child Bonded Labour in Cotton Seed Fields: A Study of Two Villages in Rangareddy
District of Andhra Pradesh” (); Katiyar, op cit., .
49 ILO-IPEC, “Tackling hazardous child labour in agriculture: Guidance on policy and practice” User Guide(), :.
50 De Lange, op cit., .
51 United States Congressional-Executive Commission on China, “Xinjiang Government Continues
Controversial ‘Work-Study’ Program”, China Human Rights and Rule of Law Update (November )52 MV Foundation, “Elimination of Child Labour in Cotton Seed Farms Through Social Mobilisation” (),submitted to ILRF.
53 Save the Children UK, op cit.
54 G. Alimbekova and B. Zhussupov, “Child Labour in Tobacco and Cotton Growing in Kazakhstan: Rapid
Assessment Report” (ILO, IPEC and Center for Study of Public Opinion (CSPO), ).
55 Pers. comm. Moctar Coulibaly, op cit. ( September ).
56 Ibid.
57 International Organisation for Migration (IOM), “Labour laws and employment practices, affecting children,in Central Asia” (November ).
58 Zainiddin, op cit.
59 Interview with GRDO, Pakistan ().
60 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour and Trans-National Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh”, op cit.; MV Foundation, “Girl Child Bonded Labour in Cotton Seed Fields: A
Study of Two Villages in Rangareddy District of Andhra Pradesh” ().
61 Michee Boko, “RIGHTS: Child Labour Thrives in Benin”, Inter Press Service News Agency,  May ,http://ipsnews.net/news.asp?idnews= (accessed September )62 De Lange, op cit. , .

                          

63 Ibid., .
64 Yong Sheng Zhang, “Forty Thousand Students Organised to Harvest Cotton”, Lan Zhou Morning News, November , http://edu.qq.com/a//.htm, translated by Hui Lin  September ;Gensheng Yang, “Work-study programme or hiring child labour?”, Dahe News,  November ,http://www.dahe.cn/xwzx/txsy/wyfy/t_.htm (accessed  August ), translated by Hui Lin.
65 HRW, op cit.
66 Land Center for Human Rights, “Child Workers in the Cotton Worm: Manual Control Operation… A
Journey of Hardship” (), Economic and Social Rights Series Issue no. , Chapter  “Working Conditions
and Child Rights Abuses”, http://www.lchr-eg.org/eindex.htm
67 Katiyar, op cit., .
68 Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, reporter, TIMES NOW, India ( August ).
69 Katiyar, op cit.
70 Alimbekova, op cit., , , ; Daniel Kimmage, “Uzbekistan: Migrating to Make Ends Meet”, Radio Free
Europe Radio Liberty,  August , http://www.rferl.org/featuresarticle///bbf--b-ddbbe.html (accessed  September ).
71 Association Malienne pour le Développement Intégré et Participatif (AMADIP), “Report on child labour inthe cotton fields in five areas of Mali” (French language) (August ).
72 Pers. comm. Moctar Coulibaly, op cit. ( September ).
73 E-mail comm. Dr. Ghulam Hyder, Green Rural Development Organization (GRDO), Hyderabad, Pakistan( September ); G.M. Arif, “Bonded Labour in Agriculture: A Rapid Assessment in Punjab and North West
Frontier Province (NWFP)”, working paper (Geneva: ILO office, March ): .
74 GRDO, op cit.
75 “Investing in Sustainable Development: Millennium Development Goals Needs Assessment”, Full Report(Tajikistan: UNDP, May ); World Bank Poverty and Social Impact Analysis – Tajikistan Cotton Farmland
Privatization, http://web.worldbank.org/WBSITE/EXTERNAL/TOPICS/EXTPOVERTY/EXTPSIA/,,contentMDK:~pagePK:~piPK:~theSitePK:,.html (accessed  September )76 Zainiddin, op cit.
77 Ibid. Oxfam also reports cotton workers receiving payment in dried cotton bush for fuel to supplement
meagre wages [Payam Foroughi, “White Gold or Women’s Grief ? The Gendered Cotton of Central Asia –Solutions for Tajikistan” (Oxfam GB, )].
78 Pers. comm. R. Vidyasagar, UNICEF consultant, Chennai ( September ).
79 Bülent Gülçubuk, Ertan Karabiyik and Ferdi Tanir, “Baseline Survey on Worst Forms of Child Labour in the
Agricultural Sector: Children in Cotton Harvesting in Karata∫, Adana” (ILO-IPEC Ankara, September ): .
80 Turkmen Initiative for Human Rights (TIHR), “Children go to school while the rest harvest cotton” (September ), http://www.chrono-tm.org/? (accessed  September );TIHR, “City inhabitants in cotton fields” ( September ), http://www.chronotm.org/? (accessed  September ).
81 EJF, op cit.; Maxim Isayev, “Samarkand students and pupils ferried to cotton plantations”, Ferghana.Ru
information agency,  September , http://enews.ferghana.ru/article.php?id= (accessed October ).
82 EJF, op cit.
83 Ibid.
84 Alisher Ilkhamov, “Use of child labour in the cotton sector of Uzbekistan: agenda for human rights
advocacy”, presentation to EJF Roundtable on Sustainable and Ethical Cotton ( April ): .
85 Zainiddin, op cit.
86 AMADIP, op cit.
87 EJF, “White Gold: The True Cost of Cotton” (): ; Zainiddin, op cit.; “Uzbekistan: Forced labour
continues in cotton industry”, IRIN,  December , http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?reportid=
(accessed August ).
88 Zainiddin, op cit.
89 U.S. Department of State (USDA), “Country Report on Human Rights Practices in Kyrgyz Republic ”( March ), http://www.state.gov/g/drl/rls/hrrpt//.htm (accessed  October ).
90 Pers. comm. Robin Munro, Research Director, China Labour Bulletin ( August ).
91 Yang, op cit.
92 United States Congressional-Executive Commission on China, op cit.
93 Lan Zhou Morning News, op cit.
94 Pers. comm. Albertine de Lange, IREWOC (International Research on Working Children) Foundation,
Amsterdam ( August ).
95 ILO-IPEC, “IPEC Action Against Child Labour: Highlights ” (Geneva: International Labour Office,), http://www.ilo.org/iloroot/docstore/ipec/prod/eng/_Implementationreport_en_Web.pdf
96 Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), Sustainable Agriculture and Rural Development (SARD) Policy
Brief , “SARD and Child Labour” ().
97 International Federation of Agricultural Producers (IFAP), Trade and Development Letter, “Elimination ofChild Labour in Agriculture” (September ): ; IPEC, “Child Labour: An Information Kit for Teachers,
Educators and their Organizations”, Book : Children’s Rights and Education (Geneva: ILO, ): .
98 IPEC, op cit.; FAO, op cit.
99 US Department of Labor, Bureau of International Affairs, “Child Labor in Commercial Agriculture” (),http://www.dol.gov/ILAB/media/reports/iclp/sweat/commercial.htm
100 United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child, “Consideration of Reports Submitted by State Parties
Under Article  of the Convention. Concluding observations: Uzbekistan”, Committee on the Rights of theChild, nd session ( June ): .
101 IRIN Asia, “Focus on Child Labour in the Cotton Industry”,  February ,http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?reportid=; UNICEF, “Children’s Voices: A Qualitative Study ofPoverty in Tajikistan”, Sec :; Alimbekova, op cit., .
102 EJF, in collaboration with Pesticide Action Network UK, “The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton” (): .
103 Ibid.
104 EJF, op cit., pg ; ILO-IPEC Ankara, op cit; Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Bondage Continues in Indian
Cotton Supply Chain” (September ): ; GRDO, op cit.
105 Mancini, op cit., II: -; ILO-IPEC Ankara, op cit.; Human Rights Watch, op cit.; Venkateswarlu, op
cit., ; De Lange, op cit., .
106 Chemicals Programme of the United Nations Environment Programme, “Childhood Pesticide Poisoning:
Information for Advocacy and Action” (May ), http://www.who.int/ceh/publications/pestpoisoning.pdf
107 Ibid.
108 EJF, op cit.
109 Ibid.
110 Eric M. Roberts et al, “Maternal Residence Near Agricultural Pesticide Applications and Autism Spectrum
Disorders Among Children in the California Central Valley”, Environmental Health Perspectives, vol. , no.  (July ): -, http://www.ehponline.org/members///.pdf (accessed August ).
111 EJF comm. Renato Mendes, Coordenador de Projetos, Programa Internacional de Erradicação do Trabalho
Infantil, ILO-IPEC Brazil ( July ).
112 “Agriculture accounts for  percent of child labour worldwide”, op cit.
113 Srivastava, op cit.
114 Sarika Jain Antony, “ The Seeds of Child Labor”, IndiaNest.com,  May ,http://www.boloji.com/wfs/wfs.htm (accessed  October ).
115 EJF comm. Gerd Walter-Echols, FAO-EU IPM Programme for Cotton in Asia,  May ; Baffes, J.
“Cotton and Developing Countries: A Case Study in Policy Incoherence” (World Bank, ).
116 Eric Neumayer and Indra de Soysa, “Trade Openness, Foreign Direct Investment and Child Labour”, World
Development,  (): ; Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, reporter, TIMES NOW TV, India (/ August ); Pers.
comm. R. Vidyasagar, op cit.; “No school before end of cotton harvest”, Milliyet, http://www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid= (accessed  October ).
117 FAO, SARD Policy Brief , “SARD and Child Labour” (); USDA, op cit.
118 FAO, op cit.; Davuluri Venkateswarlu “Child Labour and MNCs in Cotton Production in India” (EJF
Roundtable on Sustainable and Ethical Cotton,  April ).
119 Local experts interviewed by EJF in Andhra Pradesh, for example, said parents believed there was little
point in sending children to government schools, which suffer from a lack of teachers, and where conditions
are reported to be very poor.
120 OneWorld UK, “Child Labour in Profile”, Child Labour Guide, http://uk.oneworld.net/guides/childlabour (accessed August ); AMADIP, op cit.; MV Foundation, “Girl Child Bonded Labour in Cotton Seed
Fields: A Study of Two Villages in Rangareddy District of Andhra Pradesh” (); China Labour Bulletin,“Small Hands: A Survey Report on Child Labour in China” (September ). All the children encountered by
EJF in Andhra Pradesh’s cotton fields in October  – the majority girls – were Dalits. Local women’s groups
reported that, with the prices of (illegal) dowries rising, girls were required to start saving at a young age. If
educated, they commanded a higher dowry price. Meanwhile, some parents were reluctant to pay for a girl’s
education, since the husband’s family would be the beneficiaries.
121 Jayati Ghosh, “Stolen Childhood”, Frontline , no.  (- November ): .
122 AMADIP, op cit.
123 Davuluri Venkateswarlu and Lucia da Corta, “The Price of Childhood: On the Link between Prices Paid to
Farmers and Child Labour in Cottonseed Production in Andhra Pradesh, India” (India Committee of theNetherlands, International Labor Rights Fund, Eine Welt Netz NRW, ); EJF interview with Andhra Pradesh
farmer ( October ).
124 EJF comm. Paola Termine, SARD officer, FAO ( May ).
125 De Lange, op cit.; Plan Togo, “For the Price of a Bike: Child Trafficking in Togo” ().
126 AMADIP, op cit.
127 Gülçubuk, op cit.
128 Pers. comm. Nejat Kocabay, IPEC National Programme Manager, ILO Ankara ( August ).
129 Milliyet, op cit.
130 E-mail comm. Karam Saber, Executive Manager, Land Center for Human Rights, Cairo, Egypt; Human
Rights Watch, “Underage and Unprotected: Child Labor in Egypt’s Cotton Fields’, op cit.
131 EJF comm. Renato Mendes, op cit.
132 On the basis of  census figures, a World Bank Policy Research Working Paper identified % of ruralchildren aged - – mostly boys – working in cotton, and .% of urban children, equating to roughly ,
children. Since the number of child labourers has been declining in Brazil in recent years (ref ILO, “The end ofchild labour: Within Reach” ():  and Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística – IBGE, “Pesquisa
Nacional por Amostra de Domicilios: Trabalho Infantil ”), the current figure is likely to be smaller.
133 EJF comm., op cit.
134 TIHR, “Schoolchildren are not forced to pick the cotton. They come voluntarily” ( September ),http://www.chrono-tm.org/? (accessed September ); EJF interview
Turkmen human-rights activist ( September ).
135 EJF interview, op cit.
136 TIHR, “Children go to school while the rest harvest cotton”, op cit.; EJF interview, op cit.
137 Ibid.; TIHR, “City inhabitants in cotton fields”, op cit.
138 IOM, op cit.; IRIN, “Kyrgyzstan: Child labour remains rife” ( June ),http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?ReportId= (accessed  October ); U.S. Department of State,“Country Report on Human Rights Practices in Kyrgyz Republic ”, op cit.; The Kyrgyz Committee for
Human Rights, “Report on the Rights of Children” ( June ),http://www.kchr.org/documents/kchr/e.html (accessed  October ).
139 The Kyrgyz Committee for Human Rights, op cit.
140 IOM, op cit.
141 EJF, “White Gold”; Alisher Ilkhamov, “Use of child labour in the cotton sector of Uzbekistan: agenda forhuman rights advocacy” (EJF Roundtable on Sustainable and Ethical Cotton,  April ).
142 Ilkhamov, op cit.
143 EJF, op cit.; Ilkhamov, op cit.
144 Alimbekova, op cit.
145 Stephen MacDonald, “Progress and Problems Estimating China’s Cotton Supply and Demand”(Agricultural Outlook Forum : USDA, Economic Research Service,  March ); Domoney, R. “Briefing
on the Chinese Garment Industry”, (Labour Behind the Label, ),http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/images/pdf/chinabriefing.pdf (accessed October ).
146 Lan Zhou Morning News, op cit.; Yang, op cit.
147 Pers. comm. Dr. Ghulam Hyder, Director, GRDO (August ).
148 GRDO, op cit.
149 EJF comm. Ann-Carin Landström, BLLF Global.
150 Ibid.; GRDO, op cit.
151 GRDO, op cit.
152 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Bondage Continues in Indian Cotton Supply Chain” (September ).
153 MV Foundation, “Elimination of Child Labour in Cotton Seed Farms Through Social Mobilisation”, opcit.; Katiyar, op cit.; MV Foundation, “Girl Child Bonded Labour in Cotton Seed Fields: A Study of Two
Villages in Rangareddy District of Andhra Pradesh” (); Venkateswarlu, D. “Child Labour and TransNational Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed Production in Andhra Pradesh”, op cit.; Vidysagar, op cit.
154 Pers. comm. Sudhir Katiyar ( August ).
155 Katiyar, op cit.
156 Baschieri, op cit.
157 IOM, op cit.
158 European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD), “Tajikistan Country Factsheet” ().
159 International Bureau for Children’s Rights, “Making Children’s Rights Work: Country Profile on Tajikistan –DRAFT” (), http://ibcr.org/Publications/CRC/Draft_CP_Asia/TajikistanPDF.pdf; Zainiddin, op cit.; Foroughi,
op cit.
160 Zainiddin, op cit.
161 Katiyar, op cit.
162 Prasad, op cit.; Pers. comm. Sudhir Katiyar ( August ).
163 Vidyasagar, op cit.
164 Human Rights Watch, “Bottom of the Ladder: Exploitation and Abuse of Girl Domestic Workers in
Guinea” ( June ): I (“The Context: Girl Childhood and Migration in West Africa”); De Lange, op cit., ;
UNICEF, “Child Trafficking in West Africa: Policy Responses” (Italy: Innocenti Research Centre, ).
165 Boko, op cit.
166 Hill, Kai T., “Combating Child Trafficking in Benin”, (Catholic Relief Services, ),http://www.crs.org/our_work/where_we_work/overseas/africa/benin/akilou.cfm (accessed  September).
167 Anti-Slavery International, op cit.
168 “Traditional Practices being Abused to Exploit Children in West Africa, Warns IOM”, IOM News Release, October , http://www.iom.int/jahia/Jahia/newsArticleAF/cache/offonce?entryId=
169 De Lange, op cit., ; UNICEF, op cit.
170 De Lange, op cit., ; Boko, op cit.
171 “African Farmers squeezed by subsidies and privatization efforts”, Oxfam International press release, March , http://www.oxfam.org/en/news//pr_cotton_mali
172 Pers. comm. Albertine de Lange, op cit. (August ).
173 De Lange, op cit., .
174 AMADIP, op cit.
175 Pers. comm. Moctar Coulibaly, op cit. ( September ).
176 Prasad, op cit.
177 ILO-IPEC Ankara, op cit.; De Lange, op cit.; Katiyar, op cit.; GRDO, op cit.; Alimbekova, op cit., .
178 ILO Peru, Sistema de Información Regional sobre Trabajo Infantil (SIRTI), “Una mirada al trabajo infantil
en el Perú” ( June ).
179 Pers. comm. Nejat Kocabay, op cit. ( August ).
180 ILO-IPEC Ankara, op cit., .
181 Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, op cit.; Anti-Slavery International, op cit.; AMADIP, op cit.
182 De Lange, op cit., , , .
183 R. Vidyasagar, “Cotton Seed Cultivation in SALEM District of Tamil Nadu State” (September );Prasad, op cit.; De Lange, op cit.; AMADIP, op cit.
184 De Lange, op cit., ; Pers. comm. Megha Prasad, TIMES NOW ( August ); AMADIP, op cit.
185 GRDO case study, op cit.
186 GRDO, op cit.; Arif, op cit., ; EJF comm. Ann-Carin Landström, BLLF Global ( June ).
187 ILO, “National Legislation and Policies against Child Labour in Pakistan”, http://www.ilo.org/public/english/region/asro/newdelhi/ipec/responses/pakistan/national.htm (accessed  October ).
188 EJF comm. Ann-Carin Landström, op cit.; Anti-Slavery International, “Submission – Bonded Labour inPakistan” (May ), http://www.antislavery.org/archive/submission/submission-pakistan.htm (accessed October ).
189 Arif, op cit.; ILO, op cit.; Ann-Carin Landström, “How clean is the cotton?” (September ).
190 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour and Trans-National Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh”, op cit.
191 Ibid; MV Foundation, op cit.
192 Venkateswarlu, op cit.
193 GRDO, op cit.
194 Prasad, op cit.
195 EJF, “White Gold: The True Cost of Cotton” (); TIHR, “Struggle for Cotton Harvest Started” (August ), http://chrono-tm.org/? (accessed October ).
196 TIHR, op cit.; TIHR, “Struggle for Cotton Harvest Started”, op cit.
197 EJF, op cit., ; IRIN Asia, “Uzbekistan: Forced labour continues in cotton industry”, op cit.
198 EJF, op cit.
199 MacDonald, op cit.
200 Xiaoling Yu, Mark Yu and Frank Ewell, “Xinjiang Cotton Production and Its Impact to China’s CottonMarket” (Beltwide Cotton Conferences:  January ),http://ncc.confex.com/ncc//techprogram/P.HTM (accessed  October ).

201 EJF comm. Corinna-Barbara Francis, East Asia Researcher, Amnesty International,  July .
202 Yang, op cit.; Radio Free Asia, op cit.
203 China Labour Bulletin, op cit.
204 Ibid.
205 Ibid.
206 EJF, op cit., ; IWPR News Briefing Central Asia, “Farmers Still Exploited Despite Higher Pay” ( August); UNDP Tajikistan, “Investing in Sustainable Development: Millennium Development Goals Needs
Assessment, Full Report” (May ); Legal Aid Society (Uzbekistan), “General Evaluation Report”, submitted
to World Organisation Against Torture conference ().
207 Overseas Development Institute (odi) Briefing Paper, “Developed Country Cotton Subsidies andDeveloping Countries: Unravelling the Impacts on Africa” ( July ),http://www.odi.org.uk/Publications/briefing/bp_july_cotton.pdf (accessed  August ); International
Cotton Advisory Committee, Remarks prepared for delivery during the Director-General’s Consultative
Framework Mechanism on Cotton, th Round of Consultations,  June , WTO Headquarters, Geneva,
http://www.icac.org/cotton_info/speeches/Townsend//wto_june_.pdf (accessed August ).
208 US Department of State, Bureau of African Affairs, “Background Note: Burkina Faso” (August ),http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/.htm (accessed  September ).
209 Oxfam International press release, “Bumper subsidy crop for US cotton producers: African farmers suffer”( October ), http://www.oxfam.org/en/news/pressreleases/pr_wto (accessed  September).
210 Oxfam America, “Impacts of Reductions in US Cotton Subsidies on West African Cotton Producers”
research paper ( June ).
211 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Seeds of Bondage: Female Child Bonded Labour in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh” (Business and Community Foundation and Plan International (India Chapter),); EJF comm. Sudhir Katiyar, Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor Union ( June ); Davuluri Venkateswarlu,“Child Bondage Continues in Indian Cotton Supply Chain” (September ): .
212 Research Foundation for Science, Technology and Ecology/Navdanya, “Movement to Stop the Genocideof Farmers” ( May ); Bhaskar Goswami, “Making a Meal of Bt cotton”, Infochange India, September ,http://www.infochangeindia.org/features.jsp (accessed  September ); Greenpeace India, “GE Crops inIndia – The Story of Bt Cotton”, http://www.greenpeace.org/india/campaigns/say-no-to-geneticengineering/ge-crops-in-india-the-story (accessed  September ); “GM in India: the battle over Bt cotton”,
SciDev Net,  December ,http://www.scidev.net/Features/index.cfm?fuseaction=readFeatures&itemid=&language= (accessed 
September ).
213 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour and Trans-National Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh” (India Committee of the Netherlands, ).
214 Venkateswarlu and Corta, op cit.
215 One farmer in Andhra Pradesh reported to EJF in October  that the cost of fertiliser had increased byroughly % (from Rs  per bag to nearly Rs ), and wage rates had gone up five-fold, in the past two
decades, while he was receiving Rs  less per kg cotton.
216 Venkateswarlu and da Corta, op cit.
217 Zubair Ahmed, “Debt drives Indian farmers to suicide”, BBC News Mumbai,  May ,http://news.bbc.co.uk//hi/business/.stm (accessed August ); “The Dying Fields: India’s
Forgotten Farmers”, PBS, http://www.pbs.org/wnet/wideangle/shows/vidarbha/index.html (accessed
August ).
218 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour in Hybrid Cottonseed Production in Andhra Pradesh: Recent
Developments” (India Committee of the Netherlands, ).
219 Venkateswarlu, op cit.; EJF interview with Andhra Pradesh farmer ( October ); Davuluri
Venkateswarlu, “Seeds of Change. Impact of Interventions by Bayer and Monsanto on the Elimination of Child
Labour on Farms Producing Hybrid Cottonseed in India” (OECD Watch, Deutsche Welthungerhilfe, India
Committee of the Netherlands, Eine Welt Netz NRW, International Labor Rights Fund, ); ILO, “Tackling
hazardous child labour in agriculture: Guidance on policy and practice user guide” (Geneva: ).
220 For further information on the joint action plan, see Venkateswarlu, op cit.
221 Venkateswarlu, op cit.
222 Pers. comm. Sudhir Katyar, Dakshini Rajasthan Majdoor Union ( June ).
223 MV Foundation, op cit.
224 While working with pesticides, and some agricultural processes, are covered under the Child labour(Prohibition and Regulation) Act , the agricultural sector in itself is not officially recognised as hazardous.
225 Stop Child Labour – School is the Best Place to Work, “India’s new ban on child labour welcome, but
forgets work in agriculture and at home” ( August ), http://www.indianet.nl/pb.html (accessed
August ).
226 EJF comm. Simone Troller, Human Rights Watch ( March ).
227 Pers. comm. Dr Ghulam Hyder, GRDO ( August ); EJF comm. Simone Troller, op cit.; IWPR, “Child
Labour Belies Talk of Rights” ( December ),http://iwpr.net/?p=btm&s=b&o=&apc_state=henbbtmdate; EJF interview with local
Turkmenistan expert (); U.S. Department of State, “Country Report on Human Rights Practices in Kyrgyz
Republic ”, op cit.; HRW, “India: Child Labor Law Welcomed, But Needs Enforcing” ( October ),http://hrw.org/english/docs////india.htm (accessed  October ). EJF fieldwork in Andhra
Pradesh in October  found that lack of education and awareness among the local police force meant childlabour was overlooked.
228 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Labour and Trans-National Seed Companies in Hybrid Cottonseed
Production in Andhra Pradesh”, op cit.
229 Human Rights Watch, “Children’s Rights”, http://hrw.org/children/labor.htm (accessed  October ).
230 Quoted in EJF’s “White Gold”.
231 IWPR, “Government clamps down on cotton pickers” ( September ).
232 Pers. comm. Simon Ostrovsky, freelance journalist,  October report on Uzbekistan for BBC Newsnight (October ).
233 A human rights worker quoted in “White Gold”, .
234 EJF, “White Gold”, op cit.
235 A child quoted in “White Gold”, .
236 EFJ, op cit.
237 Ibid.; Isayev, op cit.
238 Calculated based on International Cotton Advisory Committee forecast of Cotlook A index of  cents perpound for /, ICAC press release ( October ).
239 EJF, op cit.
240 Mark Franchetti, “Anger rises over cotton field children who die for nothing”, The Sunday Times, February .
241 EJF field research (October ).
242 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Seeds of Change. Impact of Interventions by Bayer and Monsanto on the
Elimination of Child Labour on Farms Producing Hybrid Cottonseed in India”, op cit.; Pers. comm. Sudhir
Katiyar, op cit.
243 Davuluri Venkateswarlu, “Child Bondage Continues in Indian Cotton Supply Chain” (September ).
244 International Seed Federation, World Seed Trade statistics, http://www.worldseed.org/statistics.htm(accessed  September ).
245 Venkateswarlu and da Corta, op cit.
246 UNCTAD, op cit., http://www.unctad.org/infocomm/anglais/cotton/market.htm
247 UNCTAD, op cit., http://www.unctad.org/infocomm/anglais/cotton/companies.htm
248 Franchetti, op cit.; EJF comm. Tobias Webb, Ethical Corporation ( May ).
249 Organic Exchange, “Cotton Facts and Figures”,
http://www.organicexchange.org/Farm/cotton_facts_intro.htm (accessed September )250 Simon Ferrigno, “Organic Cotton Fiber Report” (Oakland, California: Organic Exchange, Spring ).
251 Organic Exchange, “Organic Cotton Market Report” (spring ).
252 Susie Mesure, “Fairtrade clothing is new battleground for retailers”, The Independent,  February .
253 International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard, “Global Organic Textile Standard,
Version .” (), http://www.global-standard.org/; Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International,“Fairtrade Standards for Seed Cotton for Small Farmers’ Organisations” ().
254 International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard, op cit.
255 Anti-Slavery International, Child Labour Programme,
http://www.antislavery.org/homepage/antislavery/childlabour.htm (accessed  October ); Human Rights
Watch, “Always on Call: Abuse and Exploitation of Child Domestic Workers in Indonesia” (): .
256 The Partnership represents a new initiative by the ILO, FAO, IFAD, CGIAR/IFPRI, IFAP and IUF to tackle
child labour in agriculture, in particular hazardous work.
257 ILO-IPEC, http://www.ilo.org/ipec/areas/Agriculture/lang—en/index.htm

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