Indianapolis Coin Club

December
2002

A.N.A. C-131170 - C.S.N.S L-600 - I.S.N.A. LM 243
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 30103, Indianapolis, IN 46230 Fax: 257-2220

The Wolf Den of Cub Scout
Pack 175 met Tuesdaynight, December 10, andhosted four members of the
Indianapolis Coin Club.
Junior member Kurt Miller,
Tom
Ferverda,
John
Clingman and Vinton Dove
spoke to the scouts andpresented them with Statehood Quarter Kits from theclub. Tom and Vinton eachbrought statehood quarters
to start the scouts collections, and John Clingman
gave each scout several old
coins to help get themstarted. The Den leader,
Hunter Bagwell, brought
Whitman Penny folders anda roll of pennies for eachscout, and a grand time washad by everyone there. The
high point of the evening

was the collection which Kurt
brought to show them. Kurt
is in the third grade and thescouts were in the second
grade, so it was a great example of what each scout
could do with coin collecting. The scouts and theirparents were invited to theclub meetings and were
given a copy of the latest
newsletter.
- Vinton Dove

November ISNA Award Report Incorrect; Corrections Madebecome a member of the club. Adult annual dues are $12.00 per year, junior membership dues are $5.00 per year.

educational nature are held for the benefit of our membership and the general public. All meetings are open to the public and there is no charge for attendance unless a person wishes to

The Indianapolis Coin Club is a non-profit, educational organization founded in 1939 for the purpose of educating people of all ages in the greater Indianapolis community about the coins theypresently own or may wish to collect. We hold eleven monthly meetings each year (presently at the Firemen’s Union Hall, 748 Massachusetts Ave.) during which various programs of an

THE MONTHLY PLANCHETICC Members Address Cub Scout Troop

Last month, I reported on
the ISNA Show Exhibit results. Unfortunately, I had
been given incomplete information regarding winners, and didn’t verify with
the ISNA what I had. So,
in an effort to rectify thesituation in the interest of
accurate reporting, I havecontacted the appropriate
sources for clarification.
The results were as follows(ICC members in boldface
print):

Ruth Linville Award – Rollie
Finner – 1925 Norse-American Centennial Medals
1st Place Senior Division –Marcus Turner – Financing World War II in the
USSR
2nd Place Senior Division –Dr. Robert Gerth – Threeand Five-Cent Coins andCurrencies
1st Place Junior Division –Katie Heinreich – The Euro
2nd Place Junior Division –Crystal VanArsdale –Identifying Coins

Participation awards received by ICC members:
Dr. Richard Harrison (Senior Division) - Mercury
Dimes - Full Series - Short
SeriesAdam Asbery (Junior Division) - Buffalo Nickels
Please forgive my previous
errors. Thank you for yourpatience and understanding
in this matter.
- Gail Phillips, Editor

Our next meetings are scheduled for Monday, January 27, and Monday, February 24, at 7:00
PM at the Fireman’s Union Hall Building, 748 Massachusetts Ave. at College Ave.,
Indianapolis. Parking is available in the lot west of the building and on the streets northand south of the building.
Officers: President: Jim Luckey, Vice President: Jim Roehrdanz,
Secretary: Chris Clegg, Treasurer: Tom Ferverda, Sergeant-atArms: Jim Warden. Past President: Vinton Dove
Editor/Webmaster: Gail Phillips

Directors: Karl Kreck, Lawrence Wisthoff, Donald Black,Coz Raimondi, Charles Alber, Allen Dove

InsideThis
Issue:
President’s Report2
Secretary’s Report2
Treasurer’s Report2
Feature Article 3,4,5,7,8
Kid’s Page
6
Other News
5,8
ICC
Library
List
9

Shop Amazon at: www.indianapoliscoinclub.org
1Treasurer’s Report
December 2002

From Our
President
The November meeting had better attendance. Kurt Miller won the 50/50.
Our election was determined by a unopposed slate that was suggested by
Vinton Dove, Election Committee
Chairman. Karl Kreck distributed contracts for the Sunday, March 16th,
2003, ICC Coin Show exhibitors. Tom
Ferverda discussed the Christmas
Party. Allen Dove distributed tickets tobe sold by the members for the ICC
Coin Show drawing at a $1.00 a piece.
Coz reported on the ISNA show thatwas held in November. By the way, Coz
is VP of ISNA. Marcus Turner took 1stplace and Dr. Gerth took 2nd place at
the ISNA Show. Adam Asbery received
a participation award in the youth division for his Buffalo Nickel display.
- Jim

INCOME
Banquet Receipts
Donations (50/50)
Dues (2003)
Total Income
EXPENDITURES
Advertising (Statehood Qtrs)
Banquet Expenditures
Insurance
PostagePrinting
New CD (5th/3rd)
Total Expenses$ 15.00
627.31100.0022.20
48.56
5,000.00$5,813.07

Net Expenses$5,228.57$ 300.00
29.50
255.00$ 584.50

Balance in Checking as of 11/30/02: $11,775.62

Please don’t forget to send inyour dues to the club mailbox by
January 1! Thanks!

Secretary’s
Report
The meeting was called to order by our president, Jim Luckey.
The total attendance was 28.

Tom Ferverda discussed the Christmas Banquet, December
2nd at the meeting hall. It is being catered by Boston Market
and we will have a harpist for the entertainment.

The Secretary’s and the Treasurer’s reports were read.
Vinton read the slate of officers for next year. He suggested
that we vote on them as a group and Dale Cook made a motion to that effect. It was seconded and passed by the members in attendance.

Cos Raimondi discussed the November ISNA coin show. He
said that there are ANA scholarships available for kids 12
years old and older. Talk to him for details. Also check out
www.theisna.org. and www.money.org. Adam Asbery broughtin his excellent Buffalo Nickel display.

The winner of the 50/50 drawing was Kurt Miller.

Jim discussed Patty Finner and her efforts in regards to a Girl
Scout merit badge from the ANA. He suggested that we organize something locally. He also read an announcement that
she wants to run for President of the ANA. She sent us anomination form and asked if the ICC would nominate her.
Vinton Dove made a motion that we nominate her. The motion was seconded and passed by the members in attendance.

Allen announced that the winner of the crossword puzzle challenge was Allen. There were four other members with correct answers.
That’s the news and I’m outta here!

2

Coin Photography
Made Simple
by J. T. Stanton, N.L.G.
Coin photography is becoming more andmore an integral part of the hobby. Without
photographs of coins, the hobby, as we know
it today, would be far less advanced, far lessinteresting, and certainly less enjoyable.
Many collectors would like to photographtheir own collections, but many feel the process is too complicated. Granted, photographing small discs of metal that reflect
light so easily is not as simple as taking asnapshot, but the process does not have to
be difficult or drain the pocket.
There are several coin photographers in the
country who are excellent. Their work is
professional. Generally speaking, these individuals spend their entire workdays (andmore) photographing coins. If you expect
to become as proficient as they are in just a
short time, think again. If you want to takecoin photographs adequate for publication
and archive, then, with a little patience andmoderate expense, you will achieve yourgoal.
In this article I will attempt to give you thebenefit of my experience and expertise
gained during the last 15 years.
To begin, you must decide what type of coinphotographs you’re interested in taking.
Micro photos or macro photos? The difference is much greater than it may sound. Are
you interested in color or black & white?
Or maybe both? How much money are you
willing to spend? How much time for practice are you willing to sacrifice? These arequestions only you can answer.
I’ll start with a small list of basic equipment. The equipment is the second mostimportant ingredient. You are the most important ingredient.
Basic Equipment for Coin Photography
35mm single lens reflex camera This typeof camera is vital. A single lens reflex camera essentially allows the photographer toview the actual shot through the lens of thecamera, which is very important for coinphotography. Many modern cameras havea secondary lens through which the photographer views the subject. An SLR camera, which has a manual mode of operation,is required. Quite often, to get a good shot,
you will need to override the camera’s automatic mode.

Lenses A selection of camera lenses does
not have to be vast. I basically use only a
90mm macro lens for my macro shots. Other
lenses can be used in combination with extension tubes and close-up lenses, but a good
macro lens will produce the best results.
Stereoscope This is a vital tool necessary
for micro photos. Some photographers use
a bellows extension to enlarge very small
details. I feel this can be very time consuming. Additionally, I use my stereoscope fornormal examination. It takes only five seconds to attach my camera to the scope forphotography. In this way, I get multiple useout of a piece of equipment. I also feel thata stereoscope provides better clarity for photos than a bellows.
Extension tubes and close-up lenses These
accessories are often necessary to get themost out of each photograph. Extension
tubes mount between the lens (or scope) andthe camera body, increasing the distancefrom the object to the film, thereby increasing the magnification. Extension tubes areusually sold in a set of three: 14mm, 21mm,
and 28mm. These in any combination allow for very tight control over magnification.
Close-up lenses are a cheaper version ofproviding more magnification. Most lenses
have a minimum focal length (minimum
distance from object to film). These lenses
allow for closer focusing of objects, thereby“cheating” the minimum distance. However,at times, these can be useful to the mostexperienced photographer.
Copy stands A copy stand is a device uponwhich the camera is mounted, usually pointing downward, so that a small object can befocused, and the camera held perfectly still.
This is very important for macro (full-coin)photos.
Other equipment Another piece of necessary equipment is a cable shutter release.
This is a cord-like object that attaches tothe camera, which allows the operator torelease the shutter without touching thecamera. This is important to reduce vibration during the photograph. An 80A filter
is necessary for lighting correction for color
work (discussed later). Other minor pieces
will be discussed in more detail later in thisarticle.
Film
The film you use can be as important as thecamera. Film is available in different“speeds” (generally indicated by an ASA

3rating), which differs in the amount of lightnecessary to expose the film properly. Somestandard speeds are 25, 64, 100, 200, 400,
and even higher. Generally speaking, eachhigher number requires half the amount oflight as the previous number to make aproper exposure. For instance, if an exposure of one second is necessary for the ASA
25, an ASA 64 film would require an exposure of ½ second; ASA 100 - 1/4th second;
ASA 200 - 1/8th second; and ASA 400 - 1/
16th second.
Many brands of film today are all quite comparable. For color, almost any of the major
brands are suitable. For black & white, nothing beats Kodak T-Max. All of these areavailable in a variety of film speeds. However, the film I use most frequently for black& white print work is Ilford XP-2. This film
produces basically a black & white print but
can be processed with C-41, which is theprocess used for color film in the convenient one-hour labs. It can be difficult attimes to find a convenient lab to process
black & white film.
Another plus of the XP-2 is that, although
it is rated at ASA 400, the grain of the film
is equal to that of ASA 100 speed film. Also,
if necessary, XP-2 can be shot as if it were
ASA 100, ASA 1000, or even ASA 1600. It
is very versatile.
I do use Kodak Gold and Fuji for my color
work. However, I also try other films fromtime to time. I have found that Konica is
comparable to Kodak, and I can buy it foras little as half the price of Kodak.
The choices of slide film are almost as varied as the choices for color print film. However, when shooting slides, proper exposure
is even more critical. I trust Kodak and Fuji
and will rarely try other brands, although I
am sure most are equally as good.
Camera basics
Since some of you may know very little
about photography, I will try to explain someof the basic photographic facts that you willneed to know for better results.
First, as mentioned earlier, an SLR is simply a camera that allows you to view thesubject through the lens just as the image
will appear on the film. Most instamatictype cameras use a second lens for theoperator’s view. This view may be slightly
different from the image that will transfer
to the film.

Continued on page 4

Continued from page 3
Most SLR cameras have a built-in lightmeter. This light meter will indicate the
shutter speed the camera suggests for aproper exposure. Those cameras with anautomatic exposure will use this shutter
speed when the camera is set in the automatic mode.
The shutter speed can be set manually andusually with a latitude from 1 second to 1/
1000th of a second. Most cameras will havethe 1 second shutter speed setting indicatedby a different color than the fractional shutter speed settings. These settings will be
indicated as follows:
1-2-4-8-15-30-60-125-250-500-1000
The numbers from 2 through 1000 are fractions of a second. For example, the 15 will
indicate 1/15th of a second; the 250 will
indicate 1/250th of a second. The higher
the number, the shorter period of time thelens will be open. A shorter exposure time(lens opening) means less light exposing thefilm.
Some cameras may have a 2-second setting,which will usually be in the same color as
the 1-second setting. Also, most of the SLRs
will also have a setting marked ?B.? Thissetting would indicate that the shutter release cable (sometimes referred to as a bulb)
would totally dictate how long the shutter
will remain open. When the shutter releasecable is depressed, the lens will open, andit will not close until the cable is released.
This would enable you to have an exposureof 5 seconds, 10 minutes, or whatever.
Another important setting on the camera is
the film speed. This adjustment is usuallymarked by numbers such as 25-64-100-200400-800. There are often micro adjustments
between these numbers which would allow
you to set the ASA between these speeds.
There are some cameras which allow you
to set the ASA lower or higher than the numbers that I indicated. Still other, more modern cameras will make this setting automatically by reading a code on the canister ofthe film. The film speed setting is critical
only when using either the automatic mode
or if the camera’s internal light meter isbeing used as a guide.
The lens on the camera also has an adjustment with numbers in a graduated scale.
This scale measures the lens opening (oraperture). This scale will usually indicate

numbers such as 2.5 4 - 5.6 - 8 - 11 - 16 - 22 - 32. The different
aperture settings adjust the amount of lightbeing allowed through the lens opening.
Using a given shutter speed, an aperture setting of 5.6 will allow basically twice as muchlight through the lens as will a setting of 8.
A setting of 8 will allow twice as much light
as a setting of 16. A very important fact toremember here is that the higher the number, the smaller the opening, and consequently, the less light that is allowed throughthe lens.
The aperture also controls something called“depth of field.” This is simply the distancein front of and behind the focused point thatwill remain in sharp focus. The higher thenumber, the greater depth-of-field (greater
distance in front of and beyond the focusedpoint which will remain in focus). This isvery important with coin photography, especially when taking macro (full-coin)shots. A smaller (higher number) aperturewould allow more latitude with the focus,
which can sometimes be tricky.
A proper aperture, shutter speed, and film
speed are all required to produce a properly
exposed photograph. Most SLR cameras areaperture priority, which means that once thelens opening is set and the ASA rating isset, the camera’s internal light meter will
determine the time required for a proper
exposure. An exposure- priority camera (ofwhich there are few) would indicate that thecamera will adjust the aperture depending
upon the exposure time set and the amountof light entering the camera.
Macro (full coin) photos
When I am about to take macro photos, I
will always start by checking the camera to
make sure it is operating properly. The next
natural step is to load the film and check
the ASA setting on the camera with the film
I am about to use.
At this time the lens will be mounted on
the camera. I am now using a 90mm macrolens. This lens allows focus of objects close
to the lens, and I can easily take photos of acoin two times its actual size.
A standard lens normally will focus only as
close as about three feet without attachments. However, by adding either extension
tubes or close-up lenses, you can focus muchcloser — even as close as three inches. Thisis a good alternative to a more expensive
macro lens; however, you will sacrifice somequality.
Extension tubes mount between the camera
body and the lens. These offer better quality than do close-up lenses but are more
expensive. A set of extension tubes usuallyruns about $125 to $150, whereas a set ofclose-up lenses might cost only $60.
For macro shots, I will mount the camera
on my copy stand. A copy stand is simply avertical bar mounted to a base. The verticalbar has a mounting attachment for the camera. When the camera is attached, the camera will be facing the base. In this way, theplane of the film is parallel with the base.
Many copy stands will have a mount that is
adjustable with a arm, which allows easy
adjustment of the height of the camera.
I have several jewelry pads onto which I
will place the coins while I’m photographing them. These offer a safe surface for thecoin, minimizing or eliminating possible
damage. Additionally, they are available indifferent colors, which will offer a varietyof backgrounds. I generally use black andwill discuss the reason shortly.
The cable release is vital for macro shots. If
you try to cut a few dollars off your cost,you will spend it in added film expense. I
don’t know of any one who can use thecamera’s shutter button and not cause somevibration of the camera.
Lighting is very important, but often overcomplicated. Some people will tell you that
it is necessary to have two lamps comingfrom various angles to light the coin properly. However, I have found that a single,
standard 60-watt bulb is best.
I will slightly tilt the base upon which thecoin is placed and have the light angled sothat the reflection is directed into the lens.
Or it may be easier to angle the camera
slightly and then have the light reflect fromthe coin’s surface into the lens. The lamp
will usually be the typical bourse lamp,
which is easy to maneuver into the appropriate position. When using the tilt method,be sure to focus on the center of the coin.
This will help to ensure that the entire coinwill be in focus.
If color film is being used, simply screw an
80A filter (about $25) onto the end of thelens. This will correct the hue of the lightfor the color film. However, a filter is notnecessary for black & white film. A blue
photo flood can be used instead of the normal bulb and the filter.

Continued on page 54

agree to do so, I will leave toyou. But a mention in yournewsletter and/or a link on yourLinks page would be much appreciated.

does not, I hope that you will at
least make your membershipaware of it so that they as individuals can make their own personal decisions.

Rexdale Publishing Company ofHackensack, NJ has released aseries of encased cents to promote several new books. These
encased coins are in a range ofanodized colors and designed by
Bryan G. Ryker and minted at
Mintage Masters or Gage Corporation. The Colors (set of 6)is the only known encased to bereleased in six different colors.
Under their Presbyopian Press
series they have released andencased Indian Head penny andthe first buffalo nickel encasedin the past 50 years.

Also please understand, I personally in no way benefit fromthis campaign. I am not compensated in any way whatsoever
for my time and my work. I do
this purely on a voluntary basis
for the good of the numismaticcommunity as a whole because
I am a member of that community.

Thank you in advance -You may view these encased
coins at:www.RexdalePublishing.com
where they may also be purchased.

There are also 2 petitions available on-line to enable those whowish to support this campaign
to make their opinions known.
At the appropriate time I will
harvest these petitions alongwith their signatures andpresent them in electronic andprinted form to the President &the US Congress.

Recent E-Mails to theClub mailbox:
Dear Collectors,

Please feel free to contact me if
you have any questions.
Sincerely,
Elaine Rexdale
RexdalePublishCo@cs.com

There is a web page that has
been created in regard to thiscampaign
http://
www.jdsworld.net/change/change_intro.html

For any petition to be effective
it is necessary to sign yourname. And it will be even more
I am writing to you to ask for effective should you choose to
your help in making your mem- provide your e-mail address.
bers aware of a campaign in fa- However - this petition has been
vor of new US coinage designs. formatted to allow you theAs the coordinator of this cam- signer to make your e-mail adpaign I am contacting all of the dress - Private - Public - or Availnumismatic organizations and able to the Petition Author only.
all interested individuals. This So privacy concerns have been
campaign is in its infancy, but I addressed and dealt with in orexpect it will grow by leaps and der to facilitate the petition’sbounds once people become success.
aware of it.
I hope your organization will
How you go about making your agree to lend its support in thismembers aware, should you campaign as a whole. But if it

5

Doug Prather

Continued from page 4This is an appropriate time for a tip. I havefound that, generally speaking, if you will
try to get the fields of the coin’s surface lightand the shadows by the coins devices dark,
the results will be best. Depending on the
results you need, there are times when you
might need to do the opposite.
To get the proper exposure setting, the useof a “gray card” is critical. A gray card issimply a card which is a precise degree ofgray, or neutral, shading. (Cost is about $15
for a set.) With the light and camera inplace, place the gray card in the position of
the coin. Look through the lens to see what
exposure the camera’s light meter reads as
optimum. This will give you the proper setting for the shutter speed. Set the exposure
manually.
If you do not use a gray card, the camera’s
light meter may be fooled by the vast amountof light reflecting off the coin’s surface. It
is always best to use a gray card. They arecheap!
I often find it necessary to move the lightaround from time to time to get the best
possible photograph. Different coins reflect
light differently, and obtaining the correct
amount of reflection is important. It is generally much easier to move the light slightly
than to adjust the coin. Also, I prefer tohandle the coin as little as possible. Generally speaking, best results are obtained when
the fields of the coin in the photograph arelight, and the shadows appear on either sideof the devices or raised areas of the coin.
This gives the coin a true, three-dimensional
effect.
There are two primary reasons that I prefer
to use a black background. First, black is
an absolutely neutral color. It will not alter
the hues of any photograph. Even white will

Continued on page 7

10 Facts Coin Kids Should Know
1. When did coins replace stones, cattle, and other earlyforms of money?
2. What name should you call a coin collector?
3. Who was the first person to collect coins?
4. How much new change does the U.S. Mint make eachyear?
5. How long does the average coin last, and what happens
to worn-out coins?
6. What is green slime, and why should I fear it?
7. What’s worth more - a coin or its metal?
8. When should you not add a bright and shiny coin to
your collection?
9. What makes a coin valuable?
10. What kind of grades do coins get?
1. When did coins replace stones, cattle, and otherearly forms of money?
Metal in many shapes and sizes was used for money
long before coins started making the rounds. Today weknow about two groups of people who, thousands of years
ago, started making objects similar to what we call coins.
They stamped pieces of metal with weights (values) andother marks. This way they didn’t need to weigh the metaleach time it was used to buy something.
Who were these first coin creators? We’ve long known thataround 600 - 700 B.C., people from Lydia (part of what is
now Turkey) started stamping the royal emblem of a lion’shead onto pieces of electrum. They got this alloy of goldand silver from the banks of Lydia’s rivers. And recently,
we’ve discovered that even earlier (about 1000 B.C.)
people in China made bronze coins.
2. What name should you call a coin collector?
Numismatist! (Pronounced new-miss-ma-tist.) This
tongue-twister of a word makes a rich addition to yourvocabulary. It means “someone who studies and collects
things that are used as money, including coins, tokens,
paper bills, and medals.”
3. Who was the first person to collect coins?
Just think of the month of August, and it’s easy to remem-

ber this answer. The earliest recorded coin collection belonged toAugustus Caesar, the first emperor of Rome. He lived from 63 B.C.
to A.D. 14, and the eighth month of our year is named after him.
Not only did Augustus keep adding coins to his collection, but healso gave them as gifts. Following his lead, many of the Romanemperors who ruled after Augustus also had large coin collections.
The hobby became even more popular during the Middle Ages,
when wealthy individuals and royal families built awesome collections.
4. How much new change does the U.S. Mint make each year?
Each year, the Mint makes between 14-20 billion circulating coins.
These new pennies, nickels, dimes, quarters, and half dollars are
all made at the Philadelphia and Denver mints. Soon the new
Sacagawea dollar will be added to this collection.
5. How long does the average coin last, and what happens toworn-out coins?
Most coins can circulate for about 25 years before they become tooworn to be used anymore. That’s a long time when you consider
that the average dollar lasts for only 18 months.
The U.S. Mint recycles worn-out coins it receives from a Federal
Reserve Bank. The Mint then sends any usable metal that’s
recovered to a fabricator, who turns it into coinage strips for newcoins.
6. What is green slime, and why should I fear it?
Green slime is as nasty as it sounds! As a collector, it’s one of yourworst enemies. It will take a valuable coin and turn it into a sticky,
worthless mess. Green slime is a chemical that’s used to makeplastics softer, and its real name is as horrible as what it does tocoins: polyvinylchloride (PVC).
How does PVC attack coins? By lurking in some of the flips andother holders used to store coins. Over time, the sticky film spreads
from the container to your coin, eating into its surface. You NEVER
want to store your coins in anything made with PVC!
7. What’s worth more - a coin or its metal?
Nearly always, circulating coins are worth more than the metal they
are made from. In fact, coins - especially old-dated ones - can beworth a great deal more if they are in “mint condition.”
8. When should you not add a bright and shiny coin to yourcollection?
When it’s been buffed or whizzed! A buffed coin is one that’s beenpolished to make it look like an uncirculated or proof coin. A
whizzed coin has been wire brushed or burnished, often on a wheel,
for the same reason. The problem with buffing and whizzing is thatthey wear down the coin’s original surface, reducing its value.

9. What makes a coin valuable?
Age, rarity, condition, and precious metal all affect how mucha collectible coin is worth. The value of any one coin can be
surprising. For example, you can buy some Roman coins thatare more than 1600 years old for less than $10. But thenthere are some worn 1909 wheat pennies that sell for hundreds of dollars!
As a general rule, the harder a coin is to find and the more
people who want it, the more it’s worth. This is known as the lawof supply and demand. It holds true no matter what the collectible.
10. What kind of grades do coins get?
Not A’s, B’s, C’s or even F’s. Coins have their own grading system,
which describes how much - or how little - wear and tear they have.
U.S. coins are graded with a scale created by the American
Numismatic Association (ANA), a non-profit group created in 1891
and chartered by Congress since 1912. The lowest grade on thisscale is About Good-3; the highest is Perfect Uncirculated-70.

6

Continued from page 5
alter the hues. Second, black is the best
background if a photo is to be converted
to a slide. Using a black background during a slide presentation will permit theviewers to concentrate on the subject, andnot any surrounding fibers or other matter.
However, there are times when I will use
a blue or red background. As a rule, redwill sometimes enhance copper or gold,and blue will sometimes enhance gold andsilver.
Another tip: I will often use a small woodblock to raise the coin off the surface ofthe pad. Doing so will cause the background to be out of focus. If the backgroundis in focus, some fibers or the grain of the
background may show in the photo. The
fewer detracting marks and threads thebetter. You want the coin to be the focus of
the photograph.
If you are photographing a coin that must
be returned right away, try “bracketing.”
This is a method of shooting several shotsof the same subject but with a few different exposures. In this way you will be better assured of getting a properly exposed
photograph.
Micro photographs
Photographing coins through a stereoscopeis really easier than one might think. Obviously, a good scope is necessary, and I
highly recommend a stereoscope. This isa scope with dual eyepieces that will usually have better optics.
The camera will adapt to one of the eyepieces with a microscope-camera adapter.
Adapters are usually available from themicroscope dealer or from many camera
supply stores. The adapter will simply
match to the eyepiece and will also attach
to the camera body without the camera’s
lens in place.
In this configuration, the scope is thenacting as the lens of the camera. Unlikewith macro photos, the microscope will nothave settings for the lens opening. The
scope will also be the only means of focus
that you will have. To focus, you must view
through the view finder of the camera andadjust the scope until the image on the coinis as sharp as possible.
Best results are obtained when the coin istilted under the optics of the scope. I havebuilt a small, angled table upon which I

rest the coins. It’s made primarily fromcardboard 2 x 2s and covered with a black
fabric.
The coin is then placed on this table andpositioned under the lens of the scope, so
the light will reflect from the coin into thelens. As with macro photos, best results
are obtained when the fields of the coin
are light, and the shadows fall on eitherside of the devices.
Film and lighting are the same as withmacro photos. However, I recommend thatfilm with an ASA rating of at least 100 be
used. The lens of the scope is usually rather
small and will allow small amounts of lightinto the camera. You will also discover, bymoving the light around the coin, differing results can be obtained. You may findit helpful to move the coin platform aroundat times rather than moving the light.
I have learned with micro photos that the
automatic setting on the camera can generally be used. I will “bump” the automatic
setting on the camera to +2. This basicallyadds two stops to the length of the exposure. Remember that each setting on thelens either doubles or halves the amountof light as the next setting. A bump of two
stops actually takes the automatic exposure and multiplies it by 4. For instance, if
a normal reading would force the camera
to an exposure of 1/15th of a second, a twostop bump would force the camera to an
exposure of 1/4th second. That equals two
stops.
Many cameras have an adjustment that willallow you to use the bump simply by adjusting one dial. This dial will usually have
5 settings: +2, +1, 0, -1, -2. If you set thedial at +2, you are adding 2 “stops” to the
exposure. If your camera does not have thisadjustment, you can alter the automatic
exposure by changing the film setting. If
you’re using ASA 400 film, set the camera at ASA 100. That will give you thesame result as if you had set the bump setting at +2.
Generally speaking, the light that the camera will read comes directly from the coin,and this reading is not altered by peripheral matter, as will the background in
macro shots.
SlidesWhen producing slides for a presentation,
I will usually shoot prints first. This givesme the opportunity to view the shots before the more expensive slide film is used.

7

Once I select the prints I want, I will thentake shots of the prints with slide film using the macro lens. I can also add type andindicating arrows to the actual print, so thetype or arrows will show up on the slide
when presented.
Additionally, by making slides in this way,
I can keep a set of prints on files, and I canalways make another set of prints or slides
on the subject. It’s really easy.
Adding magnification
Magnification can be added to either the
microscope or for macro shots by adding
extension tubes (or rings) to the camera.
These are relatively inexpensive, really easy
to work with, and are generally available insets of three. By adding one or more of thesetubes between the camera body and the lens,magnification is increased. These also workwith the scope and can be added between
the scope adapter and the camera body.
However, too many people feel that moremagnification is better, whereas the opposite is more often true. With micro photos, I
often like to be able to see some area aroundthe object of my photograph. This often
helps to see other identifying markers, suchas die polish and scratches. Macro photos
should be large enough for all details of thecoin to be clear.
Other tips
* Test your exposures. Simply run a coupleof “test” rolls keeping track of each andevery shot, what adjustments you made, andthe readings associated with that shot. This
process will help to reduce frustration in the
future.
* Dead batteries can cause problems at theworst and least expected time. Keep yourbatteries fresh, and keep an extra set available at all times. Your batteries will die justwhen you need them the most. Batteries arecheap!
* When taking your photographs, look before you snap. It’s often helpful to be able
to see die markers or some significant feature on the surface of the coin. These may
come in handy in the future, either in identifying the coin or the die.
* Organize your prints, slides, and negatives so that they can be retrieved easily. I
file my prints in the following manner. Micro shots of die varieties are filed in separate envelopes by denomination, date, andvariety. Macro shots are filed by denomination, type, and date sequence. Photos of er-

Continued on page 8

Continued from page 7
rors are filed by error type, and by denomination withinthat error type. I have about 20,000 prints on file andcan put my hands on most specific prints within a minute.
Slides are also filed by topic, and most are housed incarousels ready to show. The carousels are not reallyexpensive, and whenever I create a new slide presentation, I will buy a new carousel.
Negatives are also filed. Each time I have a roll of prints
processed, I will assign a number to that roll. This sixdigit number will be as follows: 920809. This simply
means that the roll was taken in August of 1992, and it
was the ninth roll I processed that month. In this way, I
can always determine when the photograph was taken.
The prints from that roll are numbered as soon as I receive them. The number is placed on the back and includes the roll number and the exact frame negative
number. In this way, whenever I pull a print for use in a
publication, or if I need to have a copy or copies made, I
can put my hands on the exact negative in a matter of
seconds. Even photos that I shot twelve years ago! You’dbe surprised how much time and irritation this procedure will save in the future.
* Buying film can get expensive, but you can save money
here as well. In the back of almost any photographic
magazine, there are several ads of companies which sellfilm, supplies, and equipment at prices far less than yourlocal camera store. For instance, XP-2 is usually about$4.75 per roll in most camera shops. But I will buy 100
or 200 rolls at a time from one of these companies for$2.95 per roll. Quite a savings!
However, if you don’t use much film, I highly recommend that you buy from your local camera store. Try todevelop a relationship with the owner. If you do so, he/she will be much more likely to help you when you need
advice.
I hope these tips will assist you with your coin photography. If you should encounter a tip I might include in the
future, please let me know. My goal is to be as helpful as
possible — both now and in the future.
If you try some photos and are not satisfied with theresults, feel free to send them to me, and I will offer mysuggestions. I may be able to tell you something simple
that you can do to make the photo better. If you do, please
include some return postage. I’ll always be happy to assist you in every way possible.
Copyright 2000 by J. T. Stanton. This article may be
reproduced in its entirety, as long as the source is recognized.
Stanton Books & Supplies
P.O. BOX 15477
Savannah, GA 31416-2187
800-828-8306
FAX: 912-355-3399
EMAIL J. T. STANTON AT:
jt@stantonbooks.com

Newsflash!
As of December 11, ourincome from our Associates membershipwith Amazon.com has netted the club
$33.02, but not all items have been
shipped yet, so the total will be higher,
soon! Remember to shop Amazon throughthe ICC website!

Solution to November Kid’s Crossword

Collecting U.S. Coins Since 1952

indexcoin@aol.com

8

The ICC library currently
contains the following
material:
Handbook of United States Coins (Blue
Book) –1965, by R.S. Yeoman
Yrs…1965-72-77-80-86-99
A Guide Book of US Coins (Red Book),
by R.S. Yeoman
Yrs…1960-62-63-64-65-66-67-68-69-7172-73-74-76-90-98
Official ANA Grading Standards of US
Coins - Fourth Edition - Paperback
Official ANA Grading Standards of US
Coins - Fifth Edition
Grading Mint-State US Coins ANA – Video 88 min.
ANA Correspondence Courses:
Grading Mint State US Coins(J.P. Martin – 1999)
Grading Coins Today(Don Bonser – 1995)

The History of Krause Publications –Just Plain Chet, by Michael J Goe
1967 Standard Catalogue of Canadian
Coins, Tokens, and Paper Money,
by J.E. Charlton – 15th edition
1977 Standard Catalogue of Canadian
Coins, Tokens, and Paper Money,
by J.E. Charlton – 25th edition
An Analysis of Morgan and Peace
Dollars, by Wayne Miller – 1976
A Guide to the Grading of US Coins(Illustrated), by M. Brown & J. Dunn –Fourth Edition 1964
United States Commemorative Coinage,
by Arlie R. Slabaugh – 1975
Modern Mint Mistakes – 3 rd Edition,
by P. Steiner & M. Zimpfer
The Official Guide to Detecting Altered& Counterfeit US Coins & Currency,
by Marc Hudgeons - 1981

Price Guide for the Collector of Modern
US Paper Money Errors, by Tom Delorey– Fred Reed…3rd edition 1977

Major Variety & Oddity Guide of US
Coins, 6th Edition,
by F.G. Spadone, .1974

Fundamental Facts about US Money
US Treasury…Oct 1969

German Talers 1700-1800…..2 nd edition
1965, by John S. Davenport

Photo Grade – A Photographic Grading
Guide for US Coins,
by James Ruddy…1970

German Church & City Talers 16001700, by John S. Davenport…..1967

Photo Grade – A Photographic Grading
Guide for US Coins,
by James Ruddy - 1972. Paperback
Detecting Altered Coins… 4 th edition –1970, by Bert Harshe
Detecting Altered Coins… 5th edition 1973, by Bert Harshe

Treasury of the World’s Coins, by Fred
Reinfeld…..6 th Printing – 1953
Pageant of World Commemorative Coins- Their Meaning and Symbolism,by Thomas W. Becker - 1962
Comprehensive Catalogue and Encyclopedia of US Morgan & Silver Dollars,by Leroy C. VanAllen and A. George
Mallis - 1971

How to Detect Altered & Counterfeit
Coins & Paper Money
6 th edition, by Bert Harshe

Silver Dollars Fortune-Telling, by Les &Sue Fox, 3rd edition - 1980

Counterfeit of US Coins
Larry Spansbauer 1975

Silver Dollars Fortune-Telling, by Les& Sue Fox, 1st edition – 1977

9

Medals of the United States Mint – The
First Century 1792-1892,,
by R. W. Julian –1977
Official ANA Grading Standards for US
Coins, by Bressett and Kosoff - 1977
Fight Inflation with Silver Dollars,by Les & Sue Fox – 1982
Counterfeit, Misstruck & Unofficial US
Coins, by Don Taxay – 1975
Confederate & South States Currency,
by Grover C. Criswell - 1976
Coins An Investor’s & Collectors Guide,by Mort Reed – 1973
Detecting Counterfeit Gold Coins —Book 2, by Lonesome John – 1978
Standard Catalog of Altered & Counterfeit Coins, by V. Hancock – Larry
Spansbauer…1979
Illustrated Catalog of Chinese Coins(gold, silver, nickel, aluminum ),by E. Hann – 1954
Encyclopedia of United States Coins,by Mort Reed – 1969
Hidden Valves in Coins (what you
should know about coins and coincollecting), by Burton Hobson - 1966
Monies of the Bible,
by R. S. Yeoman – 1961
Introduction to NUMISMATICS…A
symposium,by E. Bradfield & Glen Smedley

Contact L. Wisthoff @ 317-359-0608
ore-mail: lawisthoff@prodigy.net if you
wish
to borrow any of the above material.