OWNER'S MANUAL

25 Swing Wing

Introduction, registration form, receipt document

1

General specifications, drawings with basic information

2

Information "before you go sailing"3

Operating the Swing Wing system

4

Launch and assembly information

5

Sail and trim tips

6

Centreboard and rudder kick-up system

7

Installations: water, toilet, pumps, transducers, seacock8

Installations: fuel, gas, heating

9

Maintenance and product information

10

Rope diagram

11

Electrical diagram

12

Owner's List, Declaration of Conformity

13

Some of the warrantee papers on boat parts

14

Extras15

Introduction

We are delighted to welcome you to the family of DRAGONFLY sailors with our warmest
congratulations on your new DRAGONFLY.
This manual is meant to help you enjoy sailing and understand the comfort and safety ofyour new boat. The manual describes the boat, the equipment and includes maintenanceguidance. Before you and your crew take off to sea, we strongly recommend you all to readthe manual carefully to avoid any mistakes and/or damages. Make yourself at home on
board your Dragonfly before going sailing.
We keep improving our boats as we want you to benefit from new technology andbreakthroughs, new equipment, materials and, of course, our experience. Therefore, thecharacteristics and information hereby provided are not binding and can be changed without
prior notice or updated obligation.
DRAGONFLY is built with more than 50 years of experience in multihulls, and we feel todaythat we here at Quorning Boats are delivering a consistent product of high quality anddesign. Quorning Boats endeavours to deliver a perfect product. If minor problems should
occur, we kindly ask you to contact your dealer.
Please keep your DRAGONFLY in respectable condition as well at sea as ashore.
We wish you, your family and crew all the best and lots of fun with your DRAGONFLY,QUORNING BOATS ApS
Jens Quorning
CEO

Owner's Manual – June 2019 Edition

Registration form
Type of boat:

Dragonfly 25 Swing Wing
(Trimaran trailing sailboat)

CE-certification:

Category C + D

Date of delivery:
Name of boat:
Homeport:
Owner’s name and address
Name:
Address:
City:
Country:
Registration No
Hull No:
Hull ID-No:
Engine serial No:
YOUR DEALER:__________________________________QUORNING BOATS

Skærbækvej 101 / DK-7000 Fredericia / Tel. + 45 75 56 26 26 / info@dragonfly.dk

Document and receipt
Hull No:________

Hull ID-No: ___________________

Owner’s name and address
Name:
Address:
City:
Country:

Owner of this craft hereby certifies that I have accepted delivery and read the informationin the Owner’s Manual delivered with the boat – before using the boat.
Date: ___________

Signature: _________________________------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hull No:________

Hull ID-No: ___________________

Owner’s name and address
Name:
Address:
City:
Country:
Owner of this craft hereby certifies that I have accepted delivery and read the informationin the Owner’s Manual delivered with the boat – before using the boat.
Date: ___________

Signature: _________________________

Before use of the craft, please return this slip to:
QUORNING BOATS ApS, Skærbækvej 101, DK-7000 Fredericia.
If not, Quorning Boats ApS cannot be held responsible of any kind of damage or injury

General specifications – DF 25 Touring
Length overall, folded out for sailing
Length folded

7.65 m
8.95 mBeam sailing, folded out
Beam folded, also trailer beam and for container
Draft, excl. centreboard folded out
Draft, incl. centreboard
Weight of standard boat, incl. sails and engine
Payload max, incl. crew

5.80
2.30
0.35
1.50
1.150
550

m
m
m
m
kg
kg

Engine, standard outboard
Max engine outboard HP
Mast Aluminium section total, excl. antennas
Mast height over water level excl. antennas

6
10
10.60
11.90

HP
HP
m
m

MainsailJib furling
Code 0 furling
Asymmetric spinnaker
Bowsprit length
Trailer weight (aluminium)
Max total trailer weight
Trailer weight (steel)
Max total trailer weight (steel)

24
10
28
46
1.40
370
1.600
450
1.800

m²
m²
m²
m²
m
kg
kg
kg
kg

CE-Design category
Max No of persons in category CC
4

CE-Design category
Max No of persons in category D

D
6Information before you go sailing
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Check the weather forecast.
Check drinking water for crew.
Check fuel tank level.
Check the power on your batteries are adequate . ( 12V optional )Check engine oil on the engine.
When starting up the engine, check and make sure that cooling water is coming out.
If not, stop the engine and service it.
Check that both pumps are working, the installed one and the handheld pump.
Make sure that all equipment is stowed correctly and has been secured safely.
Check that water stays and rigging are intact.
Check that ALL hatches are closed – especially on the floats.
Check that there are life jackets for every crewmember on board.
If the boat is new, please note that electronics are not calibrated when the boatleaves the yard.

IMPORTANT NOTICE
Beware of the following:• Make sure that there always are lifejackets and/or life preservers on board for thewhole crew – and use them!
• Always as minimum we strongly recommend to use lifebelts outside the cockpit when
sailing or even motoring at night.
• High tension/voltage cables. Mast height above sea level is approx. 14 metres/45 feet
– with no antennas. Also when trailering or moving the boat with mast up on the
trailer.
• For long offshore crossings we recommend carrying a life raft in case of fire.
• For long distance offshore sailing we recommend in main cabin a watertight flash
light and a bigger type knife to cut lines.
• Take notice that the boat is not standard equipped with a Compass for navigation• Also make/prepare a watertight bag with a bit of food, handheld VHF and necessary
flayers in case of a capsize.
• In case of capsize and you are inside the boat, only dive out if you have a knife withyou to cut lines if you get caught in lines.
• By long distance sailing, make sure that all on board are aware of the abovementioned procedures.
• For long distance sailing, make sure to have up-to-date flayers and other safety
devices, like Epirp etc.
• We can only strongly recommend storing flares, knife, flash light,
Epirp/mobile/handheld VHF, a bit of water, in the emergency compartment, which isaccessible in capsized position on the SB side main hull outside just behind the aftcrossbeam (when capsized port side) rear/aft crossbeam.

• Please be aware that the trampolines can be slippery when wet, and/or in cold
conditions. Further, the trampolines are extra slippery when not pulled tightenough.
• Never walk or be on the leeward trampoline, and/or on the leeward float when
sailing upwind and beam reach in +8 knots true windspeed.
• In strong wind conditions, we recommend staying on the center hull only.

If this is your first multihull we strongly recommend before ”taking command” of the boat,
to get some training in controlling the boat while sailing as well as powering (manoeuvring)
to ensure your safety and comfort. Your dealer will give you this basic information. We
strongly advise when receiving the boat to get to know the boat well first under easy calm
conditions, especially also manoeuvring the boat under power, try this out in ”open” water
first using a fender or similar and manoeuvre the boat around this floating object, get tolearn how the boat turns, stops and how it manoeuvres in reverse etc. This is a very
important exercise. This boat is not more difficult to handle than a conventional yacht andmany times easier, but it behaves differently than conventional yachts.
IMPORTANT
When the boat is folded, the boat and propeller is lifted about 7 cm higher and the propeller
has therefore less effect. Test this out well in controlled conditions, so you really get familiar
with this. For your information, a 6 Hp engine can only motor against the wind in up to max
22-24 knots of true windspeed on flat water and against waves only up to max 20 knots ofwind. If you need to motor against strong wind only, we recommend assisting with the jib –or, get a stronger engine if you often meet stronger headwinds while motoring. The boat is
only CE approved for max 10 Hp.
We do not recommend to go sailing in the boat in more wind than 4 Beaufort or 15 knots oftrue wind, before you know the boat well.
IMPORTANT :Always before taking the boat out: Pull down the centre board for better manoeuvring,
without the centre board down, the boat cannot make a sharp turn and will drift muchquicker.
And again, check that float hatches are closed safely!
Always regularly check that all the float compartments are dry.
Always make sure you have enough fuel on the engine.
Always check the weather report.

CLASSIFICATION :The DRAGONFLY 25 is classified according to the CE-standards in category C = max 4 persons
and in category D = max 6 persons.
For CE-certification category C you can sail offshore with max 4 persons on board, during thewind may rise to max 6 Beaufort (30 knots/15 m/sec of true wind) and waves may rise to
max 2 m significant wave height.
For CE-certification category D you can sail offshore with max 6 persons on board, during
the wind may rise to max 4 Beaufort (20 knots/10 m/sec of true wind) and waves may rise
to max 1 m significant wave height.
The craft is classified for the CE by notified organisation (body) IMCI No 0609 under thedesign module Aa – internal factory control and external control of buoyancy, stability andflotation.
IMPORTANT :Sails must be set according to our wind/sail diagram – please see part 6 of this manual.
If the boat is sailed harder with more sail than recommended in our sail area diagram,
Quorning Boats or your dealer cannot be held responsible for any problems or defects on
the boat, nor claims to recover or repair the boat fx after a capsize.
This boat is a smaller type Multihull Vessel, that can and have a potential to capsize if nothandled and sailed correctly, therefore we recommend to get familiar with the boat incontrolled conditions and if sailing in stronger winds , always be ready to let the sheets goby holding the sheets in your hands at all times in stronger wind conditions.

If the boat is stored on land with the mast up, the boat needs to be secured well to the trailer
and the mast needs to be supported sideways away from the boat to prevent strong winds
to capsize both boat and trailer!
If driving/handling the boat ashore on the trailer with the mast up, always secure the boat
well and tight to the trailer , turn/rotate the mast full sideways for min windage to preventthe hole setup to flip over. Never move the boat on the trailer with the mast up in stronger
winds than 15 knots of true wind speed.
IMPORTANT: ALLWAYS beware of High Voltage power cables in the air and similar whenmoving the boat on land with mast up.

MANOEUVRING AND MOORING – RECOMMENDATIONSIMPORTANT NOTICE
Wear your lifejacket
In heavy weather wear the safety harness on deck at all times
Make sure to have functional lifejackets for the whole crew
When sailing in windy conditions, stay on the centre hull only
Minimum 4 mooring lines, of adequate dimensions (min 10 mm x 12 metres) and suitable
for the environment should be on board.
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Always only manoeuvre the boat with the engine in harbour areas – NO SAILS UP.
Handle the boat consistent with the current and wind.
Protect the boat with suitably-sized fenders.
Always keep the ropes unfold and home.
Handle the boat at slow speed – in harbour 2 to 4 knots.
Beware it can be difficult to stop the boat downwind – especially when the boat isfolded, where the propeller is closer to the water surface.

DANGERFor safety - never try to stop the boat with your foot, your hands or a boat hook.
When moored in the Marina:• Protect the mooring ropes from chafing maybe with plastic sleeves.
• Make allowance for the tide, as the case may be.
• Make sure to use spring lines before you leave the boat alongside a dock.
PRECAUTION• Be well acquainted with the boat before going sailing in more than 5 Beaufort (20knots – 10 m/sec).
• Learn to handle the boat well under power to make safe harbour manoeuvring –note that sometimes it can be difficult to stop the boat in reverse downwind.
• Be aware that the boat maybe can capsize in folded condition by winds exceeding 9
Beaufort (40 knots – 20 m/sec). In that case secure sideways the stability with one
halyard to each side, or fold minimum one side out or even better both sides half
way out.
• We do not recommend leaving the boat folded on a swinging mooring.
• Never let the boat dry out in folded position, as the ground may be out of level.
• The boat is at all times unsinkable. If anything should happen, always stay with theboat.
• In case of capsized position the boat will stay afloat approx. by the middle of thesofa back cushion, if the floats are intact.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE RIGGING• Always check the rigging, halyards, reefing lines, water stays, rudder downhaul andSwing Wing system before taking the boat out to sea.
• Every 6 months or minimum once a year shorten the main halyard and reefing lines
approx. 25 cm. After some years, you can turn them around or replace the lines.
• We recommend changing the water stays after max 10 years and/or by max 15.000
NM of sailing – use only same products and quality when changing. The water stays
are made in 8 mm Dyeform Cable SS quality.
• Side stays and forestays must be changed after max 10 years and not later than
10.000 NM of sailing.
• Standing rigging on the mast ( diamond stays ) must be changed after max 15 years.
• Never use shackles or similar on the boatsmanchair when hoisting people up the
mast.
NEVER climb the rigging when the boat is in folded position !!!!
• Tension on the diamond stays rigging, please see rig diagram.
• Never change the tension on the diamond stays without checking tension with atension meter according to rig tension diagram, changing the rig tension can cause
the mast to fail and break.
• Never drill holes in the carbon mast section without asking your dealer or Quorning
Boats beforehand.
• Never wrap the Carbon mast in any plastic, as this can cause the paint to bubble up.
If wrapping is needed, use only breathable textile materials.
• If rigging and diamonds are taken apart for the winter, mark all parts and the exact
position of the turnbuckles to get the exact same tension again .
• By releasing tension on the diamond cables, this will affect the stiffness/safety of themast and can cause the mast to collapse.
• Please take note that on the DF 25 Touring Version, the spinnaker halyard andposition of this is not designed to take the load for a Code-O type sail. For sailing theDF25 Touring a special sheave box has to be installed below the Spinnaker halyard
position, for this please contact your dealer or Quorning Boats.
IMPORTANT: When stepping the mast – check and be careful that the forestay and theside stays cables does NOT get bent, if these get bent – you need to change the bent stays
immediately.

Operating the Swing Wing system

The Swing Wing system must not be operated in winds exceeding 6 m/s or 12 knots or 3
Beaufort by true wind speed in open sea and areas and max. wave height of 0.2 m. Also lookout for waves coming from powerboats.
The boat will stay stable in a slip (moored in harbour), as long as waves are max. 0.2 m andwind speeds from sideway do NOT ex
ceed 20 m/s or 40 knots of true wind speed with mast fully turned. If higher winds are
expected either make sure the boat faces into the wind or downwind, or secure the mast
sideways – or, in worst case (like heavy storm or hurricane warning), take the mast down ormove the boat to a place, where it can be folded out. Or, take the boat out of the water,take the mast down and secure the boat.
VERY IMPORTANT: WHEN THE BOAT IS FOLDED IN THE WATER, THE BOAT MUST NOT BEFULLY FOLDED, THE FLOATS MUST BE CLEAR OF THE CENTRE HULL AND GIVES YOU MUCH
MORE STABILITY. Boat fully folded is only for transport.
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Never keep the boat folded on mooring or at anchor.
Never let the boat dry out in folded position.
Never hoist any person up into the rigging when folded.
Never set sails when folded.
Only use the Swing Wing system in harbour and wave protected areas.

On dry land never fold out by using the folding system only. On dry land, you have to pushby hand the float approx. half the way out, before you winch it out with the Swing Wing
system. This is due to the fact that the floats are missing their buoyancy.
When folding in on dry land, it is very important to hold the "fold-out" line in your hand tocontrol that the float does not fall in/down by itself against the main hull. This can damage
the boat, and people around the boat can be injured.
VERY IMPORTANT
ALWAYS remember to install the safety line on the aft wing when folding out. If not, the boat
can collapse while sailing, if the Swing Wing system for some reason gets open by the crew
by mistake or fails.

IMPORTANT
The Swing Wing system must only be used in protected harbour areas. Any use elsewhereat owner’s own risk.
• ALWAYS use the Swing Wing system WITHOUT SAILS. The sails must NEVER be
hoisted when the floats are folded in, or when operating the folding system.
• ALWAYS stow and secure the sails safely BEFORE you start operating the Swing Wing
system.
• ALWAYS point the boat into the wind when operating the Swing Wing system, and,or even better point downwind in stronger winds.
Example of operating the Swing Wing system – the boat is folded out and must now befolded in:
1. Release and unhook the Wichard safety line on the aft/rear wing by the float andmake sure the bowsprit is also pulled fully into the centre hull.
2. Prepare the endless Swing Wing line by the double block in the cockpit. Release theback stays slowly on one side only. Hold the backstay line tight in your hand whenreleasing, as you may burn your hands due to the sometimes high tension.
3. No persons are allowed on the trampolines, the wings or the floats while operating
the Swing Wing system. Also, slack other lines like spinnaker sheets, etc.
4. REMEMBER only to use the lines coming from the double block in the cockpit for the
Swing Wing system. The upper line is for fold out and the lower line is for folding in.
Check that these lines are not twisted or jammed, before pulling by hand or winching
5. Open the double clutch in the locker under the cockpit seat (both handles, these are
fixed together) and the system is now open and you use the fold in line via the winch
on the cabin top or you can maybe even pull by hand only – when using the winch,
use the winch handle. As the Swing Wing line is endless, make sure ALWAYS that thefold out line runs easily free to avoid "kinks". The float is now ready to be pulled in,
and when the float is folded in, the float is now in position. You must lock the double
Jammer again to secure the Swing Wing lines and float in position. Then you canadjust the backstay by setting it hand tight after having folded BOTH sides. The
trampolines take care of themselves automatically. If the boat stays folded in thewater – ONLY pull the float in so the “inside” of the float hull side is approx. aligningwith the centre hull (trampoline track). This is to have enough stability.
6. Then fold the other side the same way in, and after both sides are folded, then
ALWAYS turn the mast as much as you can about 70 to 80 degrees to minimize
sideway windage and make the boat more stable in side winds, and then also justeasy pull the side stays easy again to take in the slack.

7. FOLD OUT : To fold out the boat, the procedure is the same – just reverse. Releasefirst the mast rotation, open the double Jammer on one side first and pull the floatout. Make sure that other lines are NOT jammed between the wings and the centre
hull. You can most likely pull most by hand and at the end use also the winch totighten the trampoline tight and pull this well and luck the jammer again. Hereafter,
just pull the slack on the backstay before folding the other side out.
8. In case the boat does not fold or unfold easily, do not use power on the winch – mostprobably some line has been jammed and please check the system.
9. Make sure there is no sand or dirt on the sliding wing areas on the floats. If you forexample just launched or berthed, you should rinse with a bucket of water over eachsaddle to clean the surfaces for sand. Should the system after some time startsqueaking, then use Teflon type spray or similar on the sliding surfaces on the floats.
10. Take note that the boat is more instable when folded.
11. Do not make sharp turns when motoring in folded position, as the boat will heel more
over to one side.
12. When motoring in folded position, avoid sideway waves.
13. Only motor in protected areas and beware of power boats that can make bigger
waves than 20 cm high.
14. In protected areas, max. motor around in 10 m/s (20 knots) of true wind

Please Note :Regularly check that the Swing Wing lines are OK. Normally, the Swing Wing lines should be
replaced after 3 to 5 years – depending on the use of the boat.
When folding in for trailering, pull up the trampolines so these gets less dirty on the road.
Please take note that the DF 25 Touring Spinnaker Halyard position is not designed to takeloads from a Code-O type sail. If this has to be installed – please contact your dealer or
Quorning BoatsLaunch and assembly information
STEPPING THE MAST :Quorning Boats ONLY recommends stepping the mast by yourself when using blocks, lines
and special supports that are optional equipment supplied by Quorning Boats. If a crane isavailable, we recommend using this. The mast can be stepped on the boat, but at owner's
responsibility using this handbook as a guideline to raise and lower the mast.
The mast can be set on the trailer in folded position, but also in the water the mast can be
set when the boat is folded, but only on calm water.
Never set the mast in stronger winds than max 10 m/s or 20 knots of true windspeed and if
the wind is stronger than 7 m/s or 15 knots wind, the boat must either face into the wind or
downwind ( NOT SIDEWAY`S WINDS ). This is always important no matter if the boat is on
the trailer or in the water for setting the mast.

FORESTAY AND SIDESTAYS etc.

1. Forestay and side stays are mounted in the same fitting on the forward side of themast in the 10 mm (drop shape) Quick link that must be secured with a "key" No 17.
Please install in this way, side stay – forestay (in centre) – and side stay again. Whenhoisting the mast, check these stay´s does not get jammed or somehow twisted, if
the forestay does not fit to the forestay chain plate in the foredeck – most likely thestays are or can be twisted up in the Quick link fitting.

2. Fix the side stays on the outside fitting (chain plate) on each float, just behind thehatch on the centre deck on the float. For the Sport version, we in the first year
recommend installing a 6mm Quick link on the PORT side stay at the float deck fitting
to make the side stay a bit longer to easy get the forestay fitted as the side stays has
a tight fit AND FOR THE TOURING version we also install this 6 mm Quick link fitting
BUT, on the SB, (right) side float. This is important. Normally after one season sailingthe side stays gets a bit longer so later it is not necessary to use this Quick link.
3. Install maybe Windex or other items you may have in the masthead like also Wind
wane before you move the mast back on the boat. Also pull all the halyards down
before you roll the mast backwards.
4. Prepare the mast raising pivot fitting at the mast base, with the two bolts in the mastbase (see photo). Release the transport spanners on the mast and roll the mast
backwards, one person can easy do this, but please also keep the mast in balancesideways. Then you sit on top of the mast on fix the mast into the mast base pivot
fitting, by securing the mast with the 10-mm bolt and the mast is now in position.

5. In the SB side deck, you unscrew the stainless cap and install the small short stainlessmast support tube with the two rings on top and when the support tube is fully
screwed into the deck fitting make sure the two rings on top is facing fore and aft. (like wheels on a car )6. Now install the longer aluminium mast support tube on the stainless eyebolt justunder the SB side spreader and the other end on the aft steel ring in the stainlesssupport tube on the SB side deck.
7. On the front lower end on the mast, you will see a smaller U-shape stainless fitting
on which you install the mainsail boom front end with the 8mm bolt in the U-shapefitting, across the boom fitting. The boom can now rest on the front of the boat.
8. Prepare the mast raising block tackle system (an 8-mm line with a 2:1 block system).
Pull the bowsprit fully forward (take off the side lines on the bowsprit). Install thesingle block with becket on the eye of the bowsprit (Code-0 eye) and the single blockon the mainsheet strap on the mainsail boom. Now install the spinnaker halyard in
the shackle for the mainsail outhaul line. Next step is to install the smaller spinnakerpole on the folding pad eye on the side of the mainsail boom – and the other end of
the smaller aluminium pole on to the forward stainless ring on the side deck support
pole. The mainsail boom will now not be in the centre and point to the port side,which is normal. Very important is to check that these aluminium support poles arecorrect fixed and not only halfway, as this can cause the mast to fall down whenraising the mast. The line in the 2:1 mast raising pully system is lead back to the SBside cabin top winch and best through one of the halyard stoppers on the deck.
9. Now turn the mainsail boom up in upright position and fix it with the spinnaker
halyard and the 2:1 mast raising line. The spinnaker halyard you simply tie to theturnbuckle on the mast for the spreader cable and make sure the top of the boom ispointing about 10 degrees toward the top of the mast (this is to ensure the mast is
not pointing down into the foredeck or pulpit when mast is pulled fully up).
10. Now you can start pulling the mast up, just pull slow on the Winch and the mast will
come up, please ALL THE TIME check that the side stays does not get twisted or
jammed fx around the floats etc. Please also take note that the mast gets easier andeasier to pull up as it comes up higher and at the and you can almost pull it by hand
only so pull slowly at the end just before the mast is fully up. When the forestay is
still about 1 meter too short, please check the stainless mast pin in the foot of themast is moving correctly into the stainless-steel mast base fitting and from now justpull the mast up gentle and keep checking the mast pin finds it correct into the mastbase fitting, Normally, this will work automatically – but it must be checked. Again,
all the time check the side stays are ok on the boat but also not least up on the mast
where these are fixed to the mast – here the side stays can also make trouble andtwist in the bigger Quick link fitting.
11. Now you can fix the forestay to the boat or furler drum (sometimes clients preferhaving the furler drum on the forestay and other´s leave the furler drum on the boat´sforestay fitting). When setting the mast the first couple of times the side stays can betight and cause the forestay to be 1 or 2 cm too short – for this we recommend tojust install a smaller shackle on the portside side stay chain plate on the float andafter setting the mast before you go sailing – you remove this shackle again (whenthe float is folded out, the side stay is slack again).
12. When forestay is well secured and fixed with the clevis pin, you can now remove all
the mast support tubes, the mast base pivot fitting and you can swing the mainsail
boom around and fix this on the normal position on the mast (leave the spinnaker
halyard on for this as this will still hold the boom up for you).

SETTING THE JIB :Before hoisting the jib, make sure to roll some furling line on the furling drum. Turn the
furling drum clockwise until you have one metre (approx. three feet) line left in the cockpit.
This way you are able to furl the jib at once when it is hoisted. Now you open the zip in theluff of the jib, you fix the Dyneema halyard on top of the jib and make sure the halyard isinside the luff of the jib and you put the luff of the jib around the forestay and the halyard,
start to zip the luff of the jib and now you pull up the jib and zip at the same time. Make surethe three battens are mounted in the leach of the sail. When the jib is pulled all the way up,
take off the extra line in the halyard and fix the eye in the jib halyard to the smaller snap
shackle that is fixed on the furling drum itself. Tie down the luff of the jib with a smaller line
and around the forestay and install the 2:1 jib sheet and furl up the jib.

MOUNTING THE MAINSAIL :The sail is placed on the boom between the lazy-jacks and start from the top of the sail. The
boat must be up into the wind. For the Sport version mount the headboard (the top of thesail) into the top double batten car on the mast. Then hoist the sail to the next batten car,fit the next batten car etc. etc. Important – the stainless-steel link/thread must be installed
so the nut is on the topside of the batten car. Then there are also a few intermediate cars

that are simply fitted just with a plastic pin. The mainsail in the back is fitted with a supplied
Velcro textile band around the mainsail boom and the outhaul on the boom is just thesmaller line that is fitted in backend of the mainsail boom and is only tied 4 or 5 times aroundthe mainsail clew and the shackle on the boom so you have a curve on the foot of themainsail of approx. 5 cm (50 mm)
For the Touring version, just take the locking screw just above the boom fitting in the mast
grove away and push the batten cars you see attached to the mainsail into the mast track(grove) on the aluminium mast.
Remember to fit the two reefing lines in the sail. IMPORTANT is that the reefing lines in thebackend of the mainsail boom – is that the reefing lines are simply tied around the boom IN
FRONT (FORWARD) of the mainsail clew Velcro to give the right position and line-up for thereefing line when active.
By taking the mainsail off again just leave the double batt5encar on the mast on both Touring
and Sport version. For the Sport version NEVER take off the double top batten car or nor
neither the batten cars, as all the balls will fall out.

IMPORTANT :The reefing line in the back end of the boom comes out from a sheave and through thestainless-steel ring in the back of the mainsail and is tied with a bolden knot on the front sideof the mainsail clew webbing, so the reefing line does not slide back out. It is also easier to
fit the mainsail cover when the sail is up.

CUNNINGHAM :For Cunningham we use the reef 2 line as a Cunningham by pulling the reef 2 line throughthe luff eye in the mainsail and fix it into the clam cleat on the port lower side on the mast.
Only use chock cord type sail ties to roll up the mainsail when reefed.

Dragonfly 25 Touring

Dragonfly 25 Touring – Mast Rotating System for mooring in folded position

Sail and trim tips
DF 25 SAIL DIAGRAM – RECOMMENDED SAILS TO TRUE WIND SPEED
DIAGRAM OF SAIL AREA TO TRUE WIND SPEED:
m/sec.
Knots
Beaufort Upwind and beam reach
0–4
0–8
0–2
Full main + full jib or Code 0
0 – 100 – 20
0–4
Full main + full jib
10 – 14 20 – 28
6Main 1 reef + full jib
15 – 18 29 – 35
7+
Main 2 reefs + full jib
0–4
0–8
0–2
Full main + full jib or Code 0
0–8
0 – 16
0–4
Full main + full jib
9 – 1218 – 25
5
Main 1 reef + full jib
13 – 16 25 – 32
6–7
Main 2 reefs + full jib

TOURING
TOURING
TOURING
TOURING
SPORT
SPORT
SPORT
SPORT

(Standard mainsail has only 2 reef positions)m/sec.
Knots
Beaufort Downwind (not beam reach) SPORT + TOURING
0–8
0 – 16
0 – 4+
Full main + full jib or Gennaker or Code-O
9 – 1218 – 24
5
Full main + full jib
13 – 14 25 – 28
6Main 1 reef + full jib
15 – 17 29 – 34
7
Main 2 reefs + no jib or only jib
For Code-O please see the following text
For an inexperienced crew we do not recommend sailing in more wind than max 15 knots
or max 4 Beaufort. For people with normal sailing experience, but still with no multihull
experience, we only recommend sailing in max 5 Beaufort (20 knots). For experienced sailors
with good multihull experience, we recommend sailing in max 6 Beaufort (30 knots). For
sailing in more than 6 Beaufort (30 knots true wind), this takes really good experience andspecial expertise.
We must strongly advise to respect this sail/wind diagram for safe handling and sailing. The
boat can handle more by highly experienced sailors, but this is totally at owner's own risk.
IMPORTANT:
Beware that by sailing from 8 m/sec (16 knots true wind and up, attention to sailing is reallyrequired. If pushing the boat hard or sailing in areas with gusting wind, the sheets must
always be held in hand for quick release. Especially, beam reach and downwind sailing
requires FULL attention. At beam reach or deeper downwind sailing, if a critical situation
appears, always bear off the wind very quickly, this is very efficient to depower the boat.
IMPORTANT:
If this diagram is not respected Quorning Boats ApS and dealers cannot be held responsible
for boat, crew and/or gear. Beware that the boat can capsize if not handled correctly.

SAILING AND TRIMMINGIMPORTANT
It is of great importance to keep your sheets and halyards tidy when sailing because all lines
come to the cockpit. This is an important safety factor and improves the joy of sailing.

MAST TRIMMING

The mast is always in trim from the yard, but generally the mast may bend approx. 5 to max
6 cm over the aft edge in full length. When holding a line to the aft end of the mast ends,
the distance to the mast should be approx. 5 to max 6 cm = 2" between the two diamonds.

TRIMMING THE GENOA

The luff tension is to be adjusted by the jib halyard. In light winds of course only little tension
to avoid wrinkles along the luff. In more wind the luff needs more tension, but only to keep
the luff tight, more is not necessary.
Under normal conditions the genoa car on the cabin roof should be placed near the aft endof the track, if the genoa ”closes” in the aft leach, move the genoa car aft, and if the genoa"opens" further up in the aft leach, move the genoa car forward. You can adjust the genoa
car, the genoa sheet goes through the Easy lock on the outside, marked GENOA I. The Easylock is normally left open, and ONLY used if the winch is needed for another purpose. In caseyou need to put a reef in the genoa, you must move the genoa car forward for right trim.
For "reef 1" the genoa car is pulled approx. to the centre of the track, and for "reef 2" it ispulled almost all the way forward – but, check out the trim on the sail. You only use thebarber haul beam reach or downwind. While tacking upwind, make sure to pull the genoa
in tight, so the genoa leach is only max. 5 cm (2") from the lower spreader.

REEFING THE MAINSAILFirst set the lazy-jack (topping lift) on the boom.
Sail upwind course only by the genoa and ease off the main sheet completely, the main
halyard is loosened and then you pull the line reef 1, which is marked on the Easy lock. Thisline will then automatically reef the luff first and the leach – both at the same time. Sameprocedure applies to reef 2 and the reverse when reefing out. After each reef, the sail ought
to be "packed" with chock cords for less wind resistance.
It is recommended to mark on the halyard where "reef 1" and where "reef 2" must be lockedon the Easy lock. The halyard is loosened, and the reef line is pulled hard so that the reefing
blocks by the luff are approx. 20 cm = 8" above the boom.
Check that the reefing block at the luff is not chafing the sail. Normally, it does not, butsometimes you must go up and "arrange" the sail at the luff.

For long distance sailing, we recommend preparing a reefing line from the third optionalreef down to second reef, so you easier can control the third reef by hand. When using thethird reef, the conditions are of course not the easiest. Third reef position is not standard.
Avoid reefing downwind, as the mainsail can be blown past the side stays and brake thebattens. Of course, if there is no other way out, you can do it.

MAIN SAIL

The main needs much more trimming than a monohull, especially on the main sheet as theboat has many speed potentials within few wind forces. This calls for concentrated trimming
if you want maximum speed and fun with your boat. Generally, the leach seen from theboom end to the mast top must be almost straight: the roach must absolutely not ”fall out”
or twist, unless the boat is pressed too hard. Trimming the main in a breeze takes great
effort – use the preventer/boomvang to trim the mainsail.

TACKING

When tacking the boat, it sometimes helps to ease off the main sheet a little (especially instrong winds and waves). If you stall the boat after a tack it also helps to ease the main sailuntil the boat builds up speed again. If the boat starts to go backwards after a tack, then
immediately turn the tiller reverse to lee, this helps the bow to bear off the wind and getwind into the sails again. Do not turn the rudder to ”normal” again until the boat starts
moving forward again.

MAIN SAIL FOOT

- is trimmed normally. Light wind when tacking, light curve. Downwind, big curve. Medium
air tacking, flat bottom. And downwind, large curve. Hard wind tacking, flat bottom, anddownwind also flat bottom. But – honestly, we normally never trim the foot – main sheet
and preventer. Only – normal keep a curve of 5-6 cm on the foot.

MAIN SAIL LUFF TENSION

In light wind you set the main luff only to avoid "wrinkles" in the sail, which has the effectthat you easier can help the main when tacking so that the battens are turned right for the
new tack. Luff tension also gives more curve and deeper shape in the mainsail.
In medium air the main halyard is only tightened so much that the wrinkles in the sail aregone and the luff straight.
In heavy wind the main halyard is tightened hard to flatten the sail at the same time you pull
hard in the main sheet.

If, for example, you are anchoring or beaching for a short time with the mainsail set, thenloosen the luff tension in the sail to quieten the boat.

GENNAKER SAILING

Sailing with the gennaker is a "third" dimension in sailing which a lot of people dread caused
by bad experiences. On a trimaran gennaker sailing is fun and a comfortable adventure. A
trimaran is not heeling from one side to the other (rolling), and the gennaker pole is nonexistent. With a little practice, you can actually handle the gennaker alone, but always
handle it with respect!! If you respect the gennaker and use it with reason, it is great – also
when cruising.
If the gennaker has been damp or wet from sailing, it should be dried before packing. Or, if
it is not too wet, leave it in the cabin spread out to dry.

SETTING THE GENNAKER

The bowsprit must be folded out in position first. You can best set the gennaker from thelee trampoline netting behind the mainsail. Mount sheets, the halyard and the tack line.
Make sure that the lines run correctly, that the gennaker halyard for example is not twisted
around the forestay or the diamond spreader. The sheet runs just around the forestay.
Hoist the gennaker up in the spinnaker sock – set the sheet in leeward side of the winches.
The best is to use the genoa winch on the deck, pull the tack line tight, then pull up the
spinnaker sock with the endless line, make sure you are sailing downwind. Then thespinnaker sock is up, you can tie the line, that you have pulled up, on the stainless handrailon the cabin top. Then pull out the tack line, so the tack of the gennaker is pulled tight tothe bowsprit. Now you can luff up a bit closer to the wind, and the gennaker will fill up.
CAUTION
If you feel any resistance hoisting it or sheeting it, stop pulling immediately. It does not takemuch to rip it apart if it is stuck! When the gennaker is full, roll in the genoa. It is very
important that your gennaker fills first or you will find yourself rolling it into the genoa. It
never pays sailing with both genoa and gennaker.
Then roll up the furling genoa, but not before the gennaker is fully set.
VERY IMPORTANT
If a wind gust comes, then bear off the wind quickly, then you quickly depower the boat.

JIBING WITH GENNAKER

Bear off to downwind course without jibing the mainsail. Then pull over to gennaker quickly– make sure the gennaker sheet that you just released, is fully free to go all the way. Pull thegennaker to windward and when the gennaker is 2 to 3 metres to windward past theforestay, then you jibe the mainsail over. Never jibe the mainsail before the gennaker.

TAKING DOWN THE GENNAKER

NEVER sail with gennaker without the mainsail!!!!!
Bear off to a downwind course, pull the sheet in tight, slacken the tack line completely off.
Spinnaker will fly back behind the mainsail, where there is a vacuum and even in stronger
winds, the spinnaker will find the wind "shadow" behind the mainsail. Now you can easilypull down the spinnaker sock. Make sure to stow away the spinnaker and all lines, before
you furl out the genoa again and before you change up into a higher course closer to thewind.

CODE-0

The Code-0 furling system (tack) must NOT be installed at the end of the bowsprit using thetack line!!!
The Code-0 must only be installed on the steel eye on the upper side of the bowsprit on thesame stainless fitting that supports the bowsprit sideways and down to the bow.
This means you must install the Code-0 sail and furler before you fold out the bowsprit.
Always go downwind when furling the sail in.
Never use the Code-0 upwind in more than max 8 knots of true wind.

ANCHORING

Use chain (8 mm diameter) or 12-14 mm rope with internal lead up front by the anchor ofminimum 5 meters and thereafter flexible anchor line.
Total length of anchor line should be minimum 5 times the depth – more is better!
PRECAUTION
Before anchoring check the depth of water, current power and nature of the seabed andstones.
By beaching or drying out the boat beware of rocks and stones. Only beach the boat on sand.

When anchoring, secure the anchor line to the cleats or even better make a bridle, which
you can fasten on the stainless pad eye on the front of each forward wing. Using a bridle
prevents the boat from fishtailing.
ALWAYS anchor in protected areas!!
Note that multihulls have more windage than conventional yachts.
By anchoring off the stern, the engine should be stopped.
We use minimum 10 kgs steel anchor – best type is Delta, Spade A-80 aluminium or FX16
Fortress anchor. Many other types can be used as well, but make sure that you have theright anchor gear for your local purpose.
Store the anchor and secure well when sailing – if not, the anchor in heavy sea can puncture
a hole in the hull.

Centreboard and rudder kick-up system
SWING KEEL – KICK UP SYSTEM

The centre board has been constructed in such a way that even the slightest touch of groundmakes it kick up automatically via the release cleat on the cabin top. To remount the releasecleat, just push down the clam cleat hard again.
The automatic quick release cleat can be fine adjusted on the Allan-screw at the aft end – if
it maybe releases too soon or too late.
Up- and downhaul you can adjust from the cockpit cabin top. Just like you can trim a dinghyon the centreboard, you can also profitably do that on the Dragonfly.
Generally, we always recommend placing the centreboard all the way down upwind. On areach half way down and sailing downwind all up.
Do remember though, lowering the centreboard before tacking again. Under sail pressure
you cannot possibly adjust the centreboard – you will have to either luff into the wind orbear off to dead downwind to adjust the centreboard. Downwind you will seldom findadjusting problems.
IMPORTANTThe lifting centreboard line has a knot adjusted from the yard, which is the stop knot –preventing the board from coming too far down. This knot must not be moved and/orchanged.
If the centreboard comes too far down, the centreboard can break up the centreboard box
and damage the boat seriously – and, the boat will get flooded.
Of course, if you know that you are going to a beach, we must recommend releasing thecentreboard downhaul line, because when hitting the ground in slow speed, the automatic
cleat will not release as quickly, and this will put extra unnecessary strain onto this system.

RUDDER SYSTEM

The rudder also has a ”kick-up” system, so by hitting the ground the rudder will kick up.
IMPORTANT
Be sure that the rudder is always fully down in position, otherwise the rudder gets hard
weather helm and hard to steer.
Do regularly check the downhaul line for kinks or damage. If you can see any sign of damageon the 6 mm line, this must be replaced immediately. The rudder is not designed to be usedwhile sailing in no other position than fully down, otherwise the rudder system will bend
and be loose or even break off.
To pull up the rudder, release the downhaul line, lift the tiller a bit and pull the lifting line on
top of the tiller. Also, regularly check the bolt where the rudder is bolted to the rudder head(key No 19).
Always make sure that the downhaul line is always ready to release with no kinks or knots
on the line and that the line always is led into the aft locker.
When beaching the Dragonfly just release the downhaul line both on centreboard andrudder, so it goes up easier and makes less damage.
The automatic quick release cleat can be adjusted lighter and/or harder, if needed.

Maintenance and product information
Engine type:Engine No:
Gelcoat RAL hull colour:
Gelcoat RAL deck colour:
Gelcoat RAL non-skid colour:
Stripe work colour:
Epoxy barrier under water:
Antifouling:
Mast colour RAL-No:
The woodwork in the cabin is varnished with two-part satin varnish. To varnish again, sandwith grit 180 or finer sandpaper. You can use either one or two-component varnish withsatin finish, but please note that a lot of the panels are laminate not wood!
Dragonfly is built of hand-laid, reinforced fibre glass and polyester combined with 10-15 mm
PVC-sandwich foam core with closed cells, which do not absorb water.
For eventual repairs, use ONLY products on polyester basis. Epoxy can be used in an
emergency, but cannot be cosmetically improved later with gelcoat, as you can with thepolyester products.
Electronic equipment is not calibrated by the yard.

BY ANY DAMAGE TO THE BOAT

Contact your dealer or the yard for instructions. If not, you could endanger your safety
and/or lose your warranty.

GELCOAT REPAIRSIMPORTANT
Successful repairs require dry weather and a temperature between +15° to 25° C.
• Ratio of hardener is min 2% and max 3%• Gel setting time is approx. half an hour
• Never work in direct sun when applying gelcoat
How to make gelcoat repairs:• First sand the actual repair with grit 80• Then sand the area around it with grit 180-240• Apply gel coat by 2 or 3 layers• When completely dry sand it down with 120-240, thereafter with 500 – 800 – 1,200• After that polish with rubber compound and finally wax the whole area
• Use lots of ventilation, gloves, glasses and dust mask
• Keep children away
WARNING• The catalyst is a dangerous product and should not be left within children’s reach• Avoid contact with skin and mucosa. Protect your eyes
• In case of contact, wash with soapy water and rinse liberally
Clean all tools with acetone

GENERAL SERVICING

Clean blocks and sheets well in freshwater regularly
Lubricate blocks and Easy locks every 2-3 months
Clean all tracks frequently where travellers are functioning. Also, the mast track
Min once a year clean and grease the winches and check the springs
Always keep the sails covered when not in use to protect from the sun
Keep the sails dry and rinse regularly with freshwater. If sails get damaged immediate
repair is required• Let a sail maker check the sails once a year

•
•
•
•
•
•

When sailing on saltwater, we strongly recommend rinsing the boat with freshwater after
each sailing trip. This will over time make sure that blocks and lines work better, and it will
help avoiding rust building up on the stainless.
All stainless used throughout the boat is the very high-quality A4 or 316, but this does not
100 % prevent very light rust stains from building up on the surface. This light rust is cosmetic
only and does not weaken fittings or bolts. Rinsing the boat after each sail will help avoiding
this problem. Especially by boats in warm and salty water we strongly recommend rinsing
the boat.

SPRING CLEANING
1.

Exterior: Wash and wax the boat. (Do not wax the non-skid areas).
Interior: Clean the boat everywhere

2.

Antifouling:
Main hull. First wash the bottom of the boat with freshwater, if necessary, highpressure washing. Let it dry out and apply antifouling with a lacquer roll. You
need approx. 3 litres
The centre board has enough antifouling for the first three max four seasons;
you will then have to lift the boat with a crane or place the boat on some cartyres and turn it from side to side to antifoul the centreboard3.

It is recommended that all blocks, wheels and Easy locks are greased with Teflon
spray, especially the Easy locks – this should preferably be repeated a few times
through the season

4.

Mast, boom and head foil must be washed and waxed to keep the sails clean. If
you do not immediately succeed in cleaning the aluminium you can use polish
cream
Happy sailing!!

CLEANING UP FOR THE WINTER
1.

You are recommended to wash the boat completely clean, wax and polish all
surfaces except the non-skid

2.

Make sure to take off the sails, sprayhood and cockpit tent. Wash and rinse out
dirt and salt. Everything must be completely dry, before stowed away for the
winter and kept in a dry place3.

Cushions:
For cleaning cushions, you can remove the cover by unfastening the zip on theback of the cushion. For washing or dry-cleaning, check which material yourcushions are made of4.

Various steel wires can be washed in warm soap and water, rinsed clean, dried
and afterwards wiped with an oilcloth5.

All ropes and blocks should be washed in warm soap and water, rinsed and dried

6.

Rigging and boom:
Make sure all lines and halyards are intact. Should a halyard have a failure at
the end, turn it over. Every year all halyards and reefing lines should beshortened approx. 25 cm.

7.

The water tank must be emptied and cleaned – is located under the front bunk8.

The outboard engine:
Please contact your local dealer, but have it serviced and run the engine in fresh
water to get all the salt out of it

9.

The marine battery is removed from the boat and discharged, then you recharge
the battery and store it like the cushions and sails in a nice dry place. A goodthing for the battery, is, during the winter to "drain" the battery and charge it
again, fx. two times during the winter10.

Dry out the hulls completely to avoid frost damage in all bilges/compartments

11.

Make sure that ventilation is good before storing the boat for the winter. The
best thing to do is to store the boat indoors for the winter period, if you use acanvas cover make sure it does not touch the boat as it may scratch it

12.

Never cover the mast with plastic – this will create blisters between the carbon
mast and the paint. Quorning Boats cannot be held responsible towards blisters
on the mastAny damages and lacks on boat, sails or instrumentation should be fixed in the autumn;
everybody can give the best service at that time of the year.

IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE INFORMATION ON THE RIGGING• Always check the rigging, halyards, reefing lines, water stays and rudder down haulline, as well as the cable operating the swing wing system in the aft wing
• Minimum once a year shorten all halyards, reefing lines and swing wing lines byapprox. 25 cm. After some years turn them around or replace the lines• Side stays and forestays should be changed latest after 10 years or by max 15,000 NM• Diamond stays on the mast should be changed latest after 15 years or by max 20,000
NM• We recommend changing the 6 mm swing wing cable in the aft wing every max. 5
years• Never use shackles or similar on the boatman chair• Never climb the rigging when the boat is in folded position• Tension on the rigging, please see rig diagram• Never change the tension on the diamonds without checking tension with a tension
meter according to rig tension diagram, changing the rig tension cause the mast to
break• Never drill holes in the carbon mast section without asking your local dealer or
Quorning Boats beforehand• Never wrap the mast in any plastic, as this can cause the paint to bubble. If wrappingis needed, use breathable textile• Wash the mast track with soap and water before stepping the mastRope diagram
Dragonfly 25 Touring Version
Text

Main sheet
Backstay
Dyneema– eye splice in both ends
Jib sheet
Main traveller
Bowsprit outhaul
Swing Wing line
Jib furler
Rudder downhaulCenterboard up
Centerboard down
Tackline bowsprit
Spinnaker sheet
Lazy Jack
Mast controller on boom
Lazy Jack on spreader
Mooring lines
Main halyard
Spinnaker halyard
Reef I
Reef II
Mast lowering line

Material

No of lines

Diameter

Length in metres

Polyester
Polyester
Dyneema
D-Pro
DyneemaPolyester
DyneemaDyneemaDyneemaDyneemaDyneemaDyneemaDyneemaPolyester
Polyester
DyneemaDyneemaPolyester
DyneemaDyneemaDyneemaDyneemaPolyester

1
2

8 mm
6 mm

2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
4
1
1
1
1
1

6 mm
6 mm
6 mm
4 mm
7 mm
4 mm
4 mm
6 mm
6 mm
6 mm
7/8 mm
6 mm
6 mm
4 mm
12 mm
7 mm
8 mm
6 mm
6 mm
8 mm

28 m
17 m
5.2 m incl.
eye-splicing
22 m
15 m
3m
21.5 m
12 m
4m
9m
9m
15 m
34 m
11 m
4.5 m
2.5 m
10 m
37 m
28 m
19 m
29 m
20 m

Owner's list
First owner:
Name:________________________________

Address:________________________________

City:________________________________Country:________________________________

Date of purchase:________________

Second owner:
Name:________________________________

Address:________________________________

City:________________________________Country:________________________________

Date of purchase:________________

Third owner:
Name:________________________________

Address:________________________________

City:________________________________Country:________________________________

Date of purchase:________________

Keep this manual in a safe place onboard and hand it over to the new owner, if you sell the boat!!

Warranty papers

RAYMARINE or B&G electronics
If Raymarine or B&G electronics has been mounted on our boat, Quorning Boats has
registered the serial number according to your hull number for an extended warranty.
You will receive a registration confirmation from Raymarine or B&G/Navico per email.

How to proceed by warranty claims on electronics
You must contact Raymarine or B&G/Navico directly, referring to your instrument
registration.

Raymarine
Please contact your national agent or Raymarine distributor. They will be able to inform
nearest Raymarine Service.

B&G/Navico
Please use the online service/dealer locator and contact your local dealer directly.