English

About Kanazawa City
Ishikawa is located right in the middle of
Honshu (the main island of Japan), on the
coast ne x t to the Sea of Japan. It is theprefectural capital of Ishikawa. Many touristss t ay in K anaz awa and then e xplore thesurrounding area. Kanazawa has a populationof about 462,500 and is one of the core cities
in Chubu (Central Japan).

AccessWajimaNoto Airport
Nanao
Toyama Itoigawa

Kanazawa
Komatsu
Airport

Kaga
Fukui

Maibara

The Jewel of Japan
Naoetsu

Takayama
Matsumoto

Kyoto
Osaka

NagoyaYokohamaTokyo

By air: 1 h from Tokyo / By train: 3-4 hours from Tokyo; 2 h 30 min from Osaka; 3 hours from
Nagoya / By express bus: 7 h 30 min from Tokyo; 4 h from Kyoto; 2 hours from Takayama

What to say in Japanese? *Phonetic transcription: “Hepburn”.
on the Street

for Shopping

at Restaurant

Where is Nagamachi?

What’s is this?

Do I need a reservation?

Nagamachi wa doko desuka?

Kore wa nan desuka?

Yoyaku ga irimasuka?

長町はどこですか？

これは何ですか？

予約が要りますか？

Is it close from here?

What’s it made of ?

Can I see the menu?

Koko kara chikai desuka?

Kore wa nani de dekiteimasuka?

Menyu o misete kudasai.

ここから近いですか？

これは何でできていますか？

メニューを見せてください。

Is it walkable?

How much is this?

Do you have an English menu?

Aruite ikemasuka?

Kore wa ikura desuka?

Eigo-menyu wa arimasuka?

歩いて行けますか？

これはいくらですか？

英語メニューはありますか？

Can you speak English?

Can I see that one?

I’m a vegetarian.

Eigo ga hanasemasuka?

Are o misete kudasai.

Watashi wa bejitarian desu.

英語が話せますか？

あれを見せてください。

私はベジタリアンです[Taxi] To the station please!

Are there diﬀerent colors?

I’ll have this one!

Eki made onegai shimasu.

Hoka no iro wa arimasuka?

Kore o kudasai.

駅までおねがいします。

他の色はありますか？

これをください。

I’m looking for a bus stop.

Can I try this on?

The meal was very good!

Basutei o sagashiteimasu.

Shichaku shite ii desuka?

Totemo oishikatta.

バス停を探しています。

試着していいですか？

とてもおいしかった。

Does this bus go to the station?

Can I use credit card?

Check please!

Kono basu wa eki e ikimasuka?

Kurejitto kaado wa tsukaemasuka?

Okanjo o onegai shimasu.

このバスは駅へ行きますか？

クレジットカードは使えますか？

お勘定をお願いします。

Digging Deeper Into Kanazawa「訪日外国人旅行者の受入環境整備に係る外客受入地方拠点整備事業」
Published by Gurunavi, Inc. [ 株式会社 ぐるなび ]Directed by Artex Inc. / ©2011 Gurunavi, Inc. / Printed in Japan
Cover Photo: Denbei’s armor owned by Nomura family.

Digging
Deeper Into
Kanazawa
Kanazawa has been called “Little Kyoto”, though court nobles never lived here. Kanazawa
prospered and grew because of the Samurai who lived here. Locals still revere the ﬁrst
lord Toshie Maeda who reigned over the Kaga feudal clan. Even in modern times, muchremains that is connected to Lord Maeda, the families, and the vassals. Why are there
canals everywhere? What secrets do the shrines hold? Let’s dig deeper.

H

The Jewel of JapanTo urist Map of Kanazawa

KGGN Tourist Information Center
JR Kanazawa
S KANAZAWA FORUS
Station
H
金沢駅

R

1
H

H Kanazawa Central Hotel 金沢セントラルホテル

H

C

S

H

A sa
no g
a wa
Rive
Hokutetsu Ekimae Center 北鉄駅前センターr浅野川
Kanazawa
MiyakoHotel
H■Nishi-Betsuin Temple 西別院
HKanazawa-Eki
Higashi-guchi
R(East Gate)

金沢都ホテルMeisei Shogakko-mae
金沢駅東口 H Garden Hotel Kanazawa ガーデンホテル金沢 明成小学校前
H
1 Rifare-mae リファーレ前
2
H■
19 Rifare-mae リファーレ前
Pref.
県立音楽堂

4

Moriyama Icchome
森山一丁目
5

Kobashi
小橋

卯辰山山麓寺院群

.彦

東別院

iA

ve

ホテル日航金沢or

ANA Crowne Plaza Kanazawa
so
Hi

ko

Higashi Chayagai District [P12]

Kanazawa Sky Hotel 金沢スカイホテル H
Meitetsu M’za Dept. Store めいてつ･エムザ S CMusashigatsuji

R

Hotel Resol Trinity Kanazawa
ホテルリソルトリニティ金沢 H

Kazuemachi
Chayagai District

Higashi Chayagai District

主計町茶屋街Hashibacho Koban-mae

6RC

ひがし茶屋街橋場町 交番前

18

武蔵ヶ辻

Ohmicho Market
近江町市場

7

Ohmicho Market [P15]Hashibacho Kinjoro-mae$€$

橋場町 金城楼前■Tamagawa City Library

KKR Hotel Kanazawa■Ozaki Jinja Shrine KKRホテル金沢

玉川図書館

尾崎神社

Minamicho 17

玉川公園

Depending on your schedule, here are fourareas we recommend you check out. If you
are in Kanazawa for just one night, pick one or
two areas to visit. If you have enough time,
visit all four areas. Check the app. times
below. You can easily walk from area to area,
but if you want to speed things up, take theloop bus! It's easy even for tourists to use.

Od

ANAクラウンプラザホテル金沢
H

Tamagawa Park■

Utatsuyama
Temple District

三■Higashi-Betsuin Temple

Hotel Nikko Kanazawa

H

馬場児童公園3

通りKanazawa Loop Bus

Rifare■Baba Jido Koen

大Ongaku-do Hall

2

It’s all up to you!

0 ■ H Hotel Kanazawa ホテル金沢

!

南町

H

Kanazawa is not so big that you can’t walk to all
the main areas. It’s nice to move from a quaintstreet to a bustling one through the castle park!
Higashi Chayagai
District
20-min-walk

Kanazawa Hakuchoro Hotel■
Kuro-Mon€$€$

One day Walking tour (app. 7 hours)

金沢白鳥路ホテル■H
Ohte-Mon

黒門

8

大手門

Kenrokumotomachi
兼六元町

Ohmicho Market

Kanazawa Bunka Hall Kanazawa New Grand Hotel
Ashigaru Shiryokan

3

金沢ニューグランドホテル
H

金沢市文化ホール

■

足軽資料館
M

Chinsho-En 沈床園■

H

H 東横イン金沢兼六園香林坊

野村家€$
Kohrinbo Nichigin-mae 香林坊 日銀前 15

Kanazawa Excel Hotel Tokyu■■
Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industry Ctr.

Daiwa Dept. Store 香林坊大和
S
The Forth High School
R
Memorial Museum of Cultural Exchange

アパヴィラホテル金沢片町 €$M Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Art

石川県立美術館■BELSEL■
Smile Hotel Kanazawa The Kanazawa Theatre
スマイルホテル金沢

金沢歌劇座

APA Hotel Kanazawa-Katamachi
アパホテル金沢片町

Sa
犀星文学碑前

aR
i ve

Av

02

中村記念美術館
M D.T. Suzuki Museum
鈴木大拙館■
Hondanomori Hall
本多の森ホール

M Museum
H HotelR Restaurant
Bus Stop
S ShopC Cafe! Information Center€$ Money Exchange €$ Seven eleven’s ATM for international cash cards
your wireless access point, follow instructions from theFree Wi-Fi Spot From
FREESPOT page to connect yourself (English page available)
0
0

e.

A

Nakamura Memorial Museum

100m

200m

300m

400m

500m

B

04 Samurai Town Kanazawa
Kanazawa is a city steeped in tradition andculture, and at its core are the Maeda family
and the samurai that lived here.

06 The Traditional Architectureof Geisha Houses

The cobblestone streets, Kimusuko lattices,mud walls that absorbs humidity, lovely
bamboo blinds... Higashi Chayagai is amuseum of traditional architecture!

08 Kenrokuen Garden and
the Street of Art

500ft

1000ft1500ftC

Its rich past, its modern backdrop, and its
bright future all combine it up in acelebration of art and culture.

Get A 500-Yen-Day-Pass!
It’s A Great Deal!
• Adult: ¥500
• Child (7-12): ¥250

100 • Hokutetsu Ekimae Center (Map: A1)(Kanazawa Station East Gate Bus Terminal)* See the bus route on the left (page 2)!

LOOP BUS FARE FOR A RIDE:• Adult: ¥200 • Child (7-12): ¥100
• Infant (under 6): Free with an adult2000ft* Charge for 2nd infant.

A Glimpse into the Life Stylesof the Samurai
Even though the Samurai are now gone, thecanals, houses and old mud walls still remain.
Feel the nostalgia of old Japan while getting
lost in the mazy-like streets.

WHERE TO BUY A DAY PASS:

600m

川

ri

r犀

Do

Myoryuji Temple(Ninja Temple)
妙立寺
（忍者寺）

12 Saisei-Bungakuhi-mae

aw

寺

ig

i
ch
Ma
ra- り
Te 町通

5

M

0

Nishi Chayagai District
にし茶屋街

11

Hondamachi 本多町

Bustling RouteKenrokuen Hirosaka-guchi
Gate >> Hirosaka (orHyakumangoku) Boul. >>Kohrinbo Shopping Street>> Nagamachi Bukeyashiki

LOOP BUS DAY PASS:

Pref. History Museum 県立歴史博物館
M

H

十三間町

Ishikawa Museum of
Traditional Arts and Crafts

金沢２１世紀美術館

H

index

兼六園

M Contemporary Art, Kanazawa M 県立伝統産業工芸館

アパホテル金沢中央

Jusangenmachi 13

Nagamachi
Bukeyashiki District

Kenrokuen Garden

21st Century Museum of

14 Katamachi 片町■
LABBRO KATAMACHI S €$[3F] Kanazawa Downtown !
Tourist Exchange Salon H
S PATIO
APA Villa Hotel Kanazawa-Katamachi H APA Hotel Kanazawa-Chuo

10-min-walk

加賀友禅伝統産業会館

石川四高記念文化交流館
金沢エクセルホテル東急 H€$■
C■Shiinoki Cultural Complex
S KOHRINBO 109 Hirosaka 広坂 しいのき迎賓館! Kanazawa City Hall
10 Hirosaka 広坂
長町武家屋敷跡
金沢市役所

Historical Route
Ohmicho Market >>Ozaki Jinja Shrine >>Kuro-mon Gate >>Kanazawa Castle Park >>Kenrokuen Garden

Let’s learn about this samurai town andthen take a closer look at some of thediﬀerent areas. What fascinates you?
Elegant and mysterious geisha? Japanesehandicrafts? Or the samurai? We visitedseveral areas of Kanazawa with the writers.
We talked with local volunteer guides toget some interesting stories that you will
never ﬁnd in other guide books! We will
help you dig deeper as your read thesearticles while walking through Kanazawa.

Gyokusenen Garden (Nishida Family Garden
玉泉園（西田家庭園）

Nagamachi
BukeyashikiDistrict

4

Kenrokuen Garden/
Hirosaka

Kenrokuen Garden/Hirosaka [P13]

Kohrinbo Toyoko-Inn-mae■
Toyoko Inn Kanazawa
香林坊 東横イン前 16 Kenrokuen Korinbo
Nagamachi Yuzenkan■Nomura-ke

30-min-walk■Kahoku-Mon 河北門■Hishi-yagura /Gojikken-nagaya 菱櫓･五十間長屋
9 Kenrokuen-shita 兼六園下Ishikawa-Mon Gate 石川門■ !

尾山神社

Nagamachi Bukeyashiki District [P14]長町友禅館

Kanazawa Castle Park

■Oyama Jinja Shrine金沢城公園

Quaint Route
Higashi Chayagai >> The
Asanogawa Ohashi Bridge>> Kazuemachi >>The Kuragari-zaka Stairs>> Owaricho >> Ohmicho

Digging
Deeper Into
Kanazawa

12

Area Guide
with Detailed Map
Each area is introduced with a detailed map.
In addition, Ohmicho Market has been addedwith some dining recommendations. Let’s get
started on your stroll!

03

Samurai Town
Kanazawa

anazawa is a city steeped in
tradition and culture, and at its
core are the Maeda family and thesamurai that lived here. From theirdiscipline and spirit, Kanazawa wasshaped into a city full of culture and life.

K

Starting in the 1600s, Kanazawa was one of
the richest areas outside of the shogunate
being led by a powerful feudal lord.
Kanazawa’s wealth grew substantially, andas a result the shogunate started to think ofKanazawa as a political and military rival.
Much of the historic areas of Kanazawa wereoriginally built with defense in mind. The
castle is probably the best example inKanazawa of military necessity combinedwith the grace and beauty of traditional
Japanese architecture. Even though much of
the original castle has burned down, there
are some original structures, like the
Ishikawa-Mon gate, that still remain.
Recently, much of the castle grounds havebeen painstakingly renovated back to their

SA M U RA I
The Japanese
Warriors

Photo: Denbei’s armor owned by the Nomura family.

04

original design. On every shingle you can
see the Maeda family crest, and that is not
the only place they’ve left their mark around
Kanazawa.
Kanazawa castle was not the only structure
built for the defense of the city. There arealso many historic temples and shrines, from
Oyama shrine to the Ninja temple, that werealso used in defense of Kanazawa. Ninja
temple was speciﬁcally designed to repel aninvading army with its many hidden
passageways and booby traps. Walking
through Ninja temple you will ﬁnd many
surprises built into the building itself.
Seeing all of the intricate detail that went
into its construction gives you a sense of theseriousness and the imagination that went
into the designs of these buildings.

Nagamachi, which is the samurai
District, is another lasting reminderof the impact the samurai had on
Kanazawa. The layout of the roads that run
through this historic district have notchanged in 350 years. Walking around
Nagamachi you can still see the houses
where samurai used to live. Each samurai
house has very distinct ridge-end tiles t thatare supposed to resemble the top-knot hairstyle they wore, which diﬀerentiates theirhouses from other houses from the same
period.
The Maeda family ultimately thought art
would be the best way to defend Kanazawa.
In response to the growing threat from theshogunate Toshitsune Maeda decided to use

his family’s inﬂuence and fortune not just in
military endeavors, but primarily indeveloping culture and encouraging thearts. Even now Kanazawa is famous for its
gold leaf, partly due to the fact that
Kanazawa produces 99% of all the gold leaf
made in Japan, and partly because of thehigh quality art and lacquerware that thegold leaf is often used in. Kanazawa also
developed an expensive and much sought
after style of kimo called Kagayuzen. The
Maeda family were patrons of the arts. They
spent money on developing the arts in their
domain to prove they were not military
rivals to the shogunate.
he Maeda family ruled over this areafor 300 years, and through theirforesight and determination
Kanazawa grew strong. By not using only
samurai and military might to defend
Kanazawa but also art, Kanazawa has not
only survived and thrived but become avaluable cultural asset.

T

Even though the samurai are now gone,what is left behind is a modern city withsmall winding roads ﬁlled with restaurants,
shops, and a lot of history waiting to bediscovered. Getting lost walking down thewinding streets is not only okay but highly
recommended. So while in Kanazawa pleaseenjoy the culture, the art, the food, and thepeople, because here is truly one of the few
places to experience the complex andlayered relationship Japan has with its past,present, and future.

Dustin Keeling, originally from America, is asmall business owner in Kanazawa. He moved
here six years ago for a one-year working
holiday and loved it so much he stayed. He
really enjoys introducing people to everything
Kanazawa has to oﬀer, and even after 6 years
he is still ﬁnding new shops and restaurants.

05

Higashi Chayagai

While visiting the merchant house, try talking
with some of the volunteers wearing
yellow jackets that work there.

[ ひがし茶屋街 ]The cobblestone streets,
kimusuko lattices, mud wallsthat absorb humidity, lovely
bamboo blinds... Higashi
Chayagai is a museum of
traditional architecture! There
are still many local geisha called
Geiko-san who perform dance
and music in the quaint district.

H

Geisha house Kaikaroin the Higashi Chayagai district

The Traditional Architecture of Geisha Houses
When people hear the word “geisha” they think of beautiful
and romanticized images of Japan. Many travelers to Japan
however, are unfamiliar with the reality of the geisha andare unaware that the practice is still very much alive today.
By Dustin KeelingIt’s not only the past
but also a vibrant part of the present
with no signs of fading away anytime soon.
ny trip to Kanazawa must have Higashi
Chayagai on the itinerar y. From thecobblestone streets to the historicbuildings, Kanazawa’s geisha district is right outof the pages of a novel. The traditional arts
practiced by the geisha are still sought after bypeople of power and wealth here in Japan,
f re quente d by p oliticians and success f ulbusinessmen. Much like other parts of Japaneseculture, Kanazawa’s Higashi Chayagai is not only
the past but also a vibrant part of the present
with no signs of fading away anytime soon.
When you make it to Higashi Chayagai you must
visit Shima Tea House. Shima is a traditional
geisha house that is open to the public. InsideA

06

igashi Chayagai does not only havehistoric geisha houses, but several otherhistoric buildings that you should taketime to check out. One of which is Higashi
Chaya Kyukei-Kan, a wonderful example of amerchant house from around 1868. To makesuch houses it took twelve types of skilledworkers, and each building is considered a workof art. While visiting the merchant house, try
talking with some of the volunteers wearing
ye ll ow ja cke t s that wo r k th e re. T h ey are
passionate and exciting and will try and explain
things even if there is a bit of a language barrier.
While walking through Higashi Chayagai you
will notice that this part of Kanazawa is still alivewith residents and many shops and restaurants.
There are many small stores selling everythingfrom traditional tea, to the gold leaf that
Kanazawa is famous for, to beautiful wall hangings and art. Many of the small shops sell items
that have been made locally by artists from thearea. This is a great place to ﬁnd something
special and take a piece of Higashi Chayagai
home for yourself or for someone you careabout.

you will be able to see what living conditions
were like for the average geisha. Shima geisha
house has a common layout that was shared bymany other tea houses from that period. This
style of geisha house had three stair cases socustomers would not run into each other as
they were coming and going.
The three entertaining rooms on the second
ﬂoor would each be divided into a guest room,
an alcove, and a waiting area. The guest room
was where the clients would sit and be entertained by geisha who would pour drinks, playdrinking games, and engage in conversation.
The alcove would be an area of the guest roomthat the Mamma, or owner, would decorate
with diﬀerent kinds of ﬂowers and art work
depending on the season. The waiting area wasused by the preforming geisha as a stage formusic and dancing. Most geisha parties would

last an hour and a half. Since this was an era
before watches and time pieces were readily
available, the geisha would keep track of thetime by burning incense. Once the incense hadburned out, it was time to go. Even hundreds ofyears ago, geisha parties were quite expensive,and successful businessmen from the emerging
merchant class would use these parties as a way
to show oﬀ their wealth.
The ﬁrst ﬂoor of Shima was where the kitchen
and the area for the owner of the house to do
the bookkeeping was located. Now there isalso a tea shop in the back of the house thatoverlooks the centrally located garden. The tea
shop is a great place to take a break and relax.
From the tea and the traditional sweets to thebeautiful garden and serene atmosphere, it
really is a special moment that can be found in
few other places.
Like many other aspects of Japanese life, thegarden served several purposes. The obvious
reason was to enjoy the garden while drinking
tea o r to o bs e r ve th e chan gin g s eas o ns .
Another more practical reason was for snow
storage. Kanazawa gets lots of heavy snow inthe winter. People were not allowed to shovel
snow into the road so residents would move thesnow to the garden, where it could act as arefrigerator.

Shima [志摩]1-13-21, Higashiyama, Kanazawa
Phone 076-252-5675 / Fax 076-252-0777
Admission: adult ¥400; child (7-15) ¥300
Open: everyday (9:00-18:00)

Higashi Chaya Kyukei-Kan[ひがし茶屋休憩館]
1-5-14, Higashiyama, Kanazawa
Phone 076-253-0087 / Admission: free
Open: everyday (9:00-17:00 / winter 9:30-17:00)

see map on the page 1207

Following in the tradition of the Maeda family,
the 21st Century Museum is pioneering thefuture history of the art and culture of Kanazawa.
A road lined with cherry trees and ﬁlledwith shops featuring locally produced
art and handycrafts.

L

Kenrokuen / Hirosaka[ 兼六園／広坂 ]The area surrounding
Kanazawa’s Kenrokuen
and the 21st Century Museum
epitomizes Kanazawa.
Its rich past, its modern backdrop,
and its bright future
all combine it up in a celebrationof art and culture.

Kenrokuen in winterNowhere is the idea of “ichigo ichie”
more apparent than in Kenrokuen.
Every season brings something new.

Kenrokuen Garden
and the Street of Art
Kanazawa is a city in Japan that embraces its
history, enjoys its present, and is continually
expanding on its art and culture. With
Kenrokuen facing the 21st Century Museum, theold seamlessly blends with the new, adding to
the richness of both.
By Dustin Keeling08

eaving the 21st Century Museum is Hirosaka
art street, a road lined with cherry trees
and ﬁlled with shops ﬁlled with locally
produced art and handycrafts. You could spend
hours walking through all the small shops andtrying to ﬁgure out what each object is used for,or for what you could use it. You are only limitedby your imagination and your budget. One of
the most famous shops on Hirosaka street isNosaku, which has been making lacquerware
since the 1780s. Originally providing lacquerware to the Maeda family, they now sell to the
public. They have shows displaying their waresinternationally with pieces going to collectors
and enthusiasts all over the world.
The area surrounding Kanazawa’s Kenrokuen andthe 21st Century Museum epitomizes Kanazawa.
Its rich past, its modern backdrop, and its bright
future all combine it up in a celebration of art andculture. Whatever you are interested in you willﬁnd something that will get your attention here.

enrokuen means “the 6 perfect attributes”
in English. The attributes that all true
Japanese gardens must have are spaciousness, seclusion, antiquity, artiﬁciality, panoramic
views and waterways. It’s a park of contradictions.
Each of these points represent features that areusually impossible to ﬁnd together. The depth andsubtlety of the park have it ranked in the top threemost beautiful in all of Japan. There is a phrase inJapanese, “ichigo ichie,” that translates to “this timeonly” or “never again.” It’s a philosophy of living in
the moment and cherishing the present because
you will never be able to relive this exact moment
again. Nowhere is this idea more apparent than in
Kenrokuen. Every season brings something new.
Every section of the park is constantly changing,but staying true to the idea of contrasting ideas,some things have not changed for hundreds ofyears. As you slowly walk through the park you
will ﬁnd yourself looking over Kanazawa and thesurrounding mountains. Then as you travel farther
you will ﬁnd yourself surrounded by trees and feelcompletely alone. With the waterfalls and blooming ﬂowers it is easily one of the most picturesqueplaces in all of Kanazawa.

K

Right next to Kenrokuen is Edo town, a wonderfully colorful area full of small shops selling
everything from food to antiques. If you comeduring the spring you should deﬁnitely try the
dango, which is a sweet round dessert popularduring the cherry blossom season. Or you could
also try kaki gori, which is like a snow cone, andperfect on a hot summer day.
With so much to take in, a guide is highly recommended. Next to the Ishikawa-Mon gate ofKanazawa castle there is a tourist informationoﬃce that gives free tours of Kenrokuen. The
tour guides can speak English and they reallymake the park ’s histor y come alive. Their
personal stories of the garden and of Kanazawa
are also highly enjoyable.

Kenrokuen Garden [兼六園]Kenrokumachi / Phone 076-234-3800
Open: 7:00-18:00 (March 1 - October 15);
8:00-17:00 (October 16 - February)
Admission: adult ¥300; child (6-17) ¥100

Installation pieces surround the museum
and the museum itself features new artists
on a regular basis.
fter ﬁnishing a tour of Kenrokuen, you cantransition to the 21st Century Museum.
This modern art museum concentrates
on works of art produced since the 1980s. The
21st Century Museum also likes artists to makeworks speciﬁcally for their museum. Installation
pieces surround the museum and the museum
itself features new artists on a regular basis.

A

21st Century Museumof Contemporary Art, Kanazawa[金沢21世紀美術館]
1-2-1, Hirosaka / Phone 076-220-2800
Museum Hours: Check the website!
http://www.kanazawa21.jp/en

Admission: free*Exhibitions held at the Museum are ticketed.

see map on the page 13

09

Nagamachi Bukeyashiki[ 長町武家屋敷跡 ]Even though the samurai are now gone,
the canals, houses, and old mud walls still remain.
Feel the nostalgia of old Japan
while getting lost in the maze-like streets.

A Glimpse into the Lifestyles of the Samurai
If Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen are the souls of Kanazawa, then the heart
would have to be Nagamachi, the samurai district. It is not only
famous for the samurai residents who lived here, but also because
it is a great glimpse into the lives of the people from feudal Japan.
By Dustin Keeling

The canals helped with everything fromprotecting houses from ﬁre to acting likemoats for the castle.
n English, Nagamachi means “long town.” Itgets its name from the fact that it was built
along one of the many canals that run
through Kanazawa. In fact, out of all the canals
in Kanazawa, the one winding its way throughN a g a m a c h i is t h e o l d e s t . T h e b e au t y o f
Japanese design is not only in the aesthetics but
also in the functionality. The canals are a serene
setting for everyday life, but they were also theworkhorses of historic Kanazawa. These canals
helped with everything from protecting houses
from ﬁre, to acting like moats for the castle tobringing goods like timber from the port into
the city. As you wander along the canal, you will
notice small bridges leading into the privateI10residences. Traditionally one property would befrom one bridge to the next.
Nothing epitomizes the golden age of thesamurai more than the Nomura-Ke house. Thisis the crown jewel of Nagamachi. The Nomura
family lived in the house for 11 generations. This
house represents how high- ranking samurai
would have lived. As you walk through thehouse, which still has the original glass panes in
its windows, it opens up to a breathtaking
garden. As with most houses from the feudal
period, centrally located gardens were quite
common, but there is nothing common about
this garden. The scale and size is what strikes
you ﬁrst. Then all of the small details, at ﬁrst
blending together, pop out at you as your eyes
adjust. This small private garden competes
against much larger gardens and is still ranked
one of the best in Japan. Making your way to

Old houses samurai used to live inthe second ﬂoor is a tea room that overlooks thegarden where you can relax and let your mind
wander. The strongest connection to the past in
the Nomura-Ke house is in the back of the house
where the Nomura family’s personal belongings
are displayed. Seeing the swords and weapons
they would have carried into battle has a chillingeﬀect and really highlights the reality of thetimes. There are documents from the battles
they fought in detailing their exploits andrewards.
Nagamachi encapsulates
what it must have been like to live
during the golden age of the samurai.
stark contrast to the Nomura-Ke house is
the Ashigaru house. Ashigaru translates
to “light feet.” These were the footsolders with no horses; they were the lowest
rank. Walking through the Ashigaru houseshows the disparit y in which the diﬀerent
classes were treated. What is interesting is that
the Ashigaru houses in Kanazawa are quite nicewhen compared to other Ashigaru houses fromother parts of Japan. The Maeda family treatedthem better than most other lords from thefeudal period.
Nagamachi does not only hold the history of thesamurai but also of the merchant class. A placethat oﬀers a snapshot of what business was likeduring the feudal period is the Kanazawa Shinise
Memorial Hall. This old building was originallycalled Nakaya Pharmacy. It is a great example ofan average pharmacy from the feudal period.
The building itself sucks you into a diﬀerent
time. With Kanazawa’s rich history, there aremany families and businesses that have beenworking here for hundreds of years. The Nakaya
family established their pharmacy in 1579. On
the second ﬂoor of Shinise Memorial Hall, 55
tr a di ti o nal s to re s thro u gh o u t K ana z aw abelonging to an association of traditionalmerchant houses display their traditional tools
and crafts. These artifacts have been handed
down through the generations and are now
being displayed on a rotating basis, so each
local business can show their connection withthe growth of Kanazawa’s culture.
Nagamachi encapsulates what it must havebeen like to live during the golden age of thesamurai. Winding canals and historic buildings
alongside shops that are still open after so many
years is truly something special. Nagamachi iswhat living histor y should be: accessible,
interesting, and most of all, memorable.

Kanazawa Shinise Kinen-Kan[金沢市老舗記念館]
2-2-45, Nagamachi / Phone 076-220-2524
Open: everyday (9:30-17:00)
Admission: ¥100

A

Nomura-Ke [野村家]1-3-32, Nagamachi / Phone 076-221-3553
Open: 8:30-17:30 (winter 8:30-16:30)
Closed: Dec 26-31
Admission: adult ¥500; child (16-18) ¥400

see map on the page 14

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Higashi Chayagai District
Route for walk

Loop Bus ❻ Bus stop
Hashibacho Koban-mae

30min / 2km

Geisha House Museum

Ochaya Bunka-Kan お茶屋文化館
Gold leaf Hakuza 箔座
Geisha House Museum Shima 志摩
B&B Yogetsu 陽月Naka-no Hashi Bridge
中の橋

Kenrokuen Garden / Hirosaka•From JR Kanazawa station: 1.9km /24-min-walk•From Ohmicho Market: 1.0km /12-min-walk•From Kenrokuen Garden: 1.1km /14-min-walk•From Nagamachi Bukeyashiki: 2.3km /28-min-walk

ひがし茶屋街

Gallery Kyoka

Hot pot
Taro 太郎ギャラリー鏡花S

H

R

MachiyaKanazawa -Kikunoya-

As

Japanese Cafe
Shiki 嗜季

Kanazawa Bungei-Kan
金沢文芸館
M

Shopping
Guide

経田屋

M
S

S
Craft

S
M

R

Tamakushige
玉匣Gold leaf

Hakuichi 箔一
an

og

aR

Hashibacho
7 Kinjohro-mae
橋場町 金城楼前

R
S C Soshin 素心

H R
RyokanGallery & Cafe
Yamanoo
Kureha 久連波
山乃尾
Geisha House
Kaikaro 懐華樓
Cafe & Bar Gauche ゴーシュ

Higashi Chaya Kyukei-Kan
i ve

ひがし茶屋休憩館

r浅Kenrokuen Korinbo

Find a heart of gold in the quaint Geisha districtanazawa is the only major center of kinpaku (goldleaf) in Japan, producing 99% of all gold leaf used
domestically. Commonly called “Kanazawa-Haku”, thisextremely thin product with a beautiful shiny texture is
widely used for traditional crafts such as lacquerware andBuddhist altar-pieces. It is also used to repair some ofJapan’s most important national treasures including
Kinkaku-ji temple and Konjiki-do of Chuson-ji temple.
Some of the reasons Kanazawa has dominated kinpaku
production is that the humid climate is ideal for gold
beating and the sof t water that ﬂows from the
Asanogawa and the Saigawa rivers is essential in the
manufacturing process.
The production of kinpaku is said to have started at the endof the 16th century in Kanazawa. Although the shogunate
tried to control the production of kinpaku by issuing anorder prohibiting the art, the Kaga clan (present-day
Ishikawa and Toyama) kept producing kinpaku in secret.
Kanazawa-Haku is still painstakingly made by hand one
sheet at a time in the same traditional method that wasused hundreds of years ago. There are some kinpaku craft
shops around the Higashi Chayagai District where kinpaku
craftsmen used to live, including Hakuichi, which sells avariety of kinpaku products like hand mirrors, woodenware,and accessories.

香林坊 日銀前

Kanazawa Excel Hotel Tokyu
C Starbacks $Shiinoki Geihinkan
Cultural Complex

KOHRINBO 109

Gold Leaf Hand Mirror: 7,350 yen

Hakuichi [ 箔一 東山店 ]1-15-4 Higashiyama
Phone 076-253-0891
Open: 10:00-18:00
Credit cards: Most accepted*English speaking staﬀ
available.

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Kenrokuen
Garden

しいのき迎賓館

Handcraft

Kanazawa Craft Hirosaka
Kanazawa Noh Museum

金沢･クラフト広坂

Mister Donut C

Kuroneko Hot Station ! S
Lacquer Ware Nosaku 能作
Yamatoku 茶房山徳Kanazawa City Hall
14 Katamachi
H
$

C

S M

Shopping
Guide

Gold Leaf

S S

Imai Kinpaku 今井金箔
Kutani-Yaki Ware

M

金沢市役所

ホテルアクティ金沢

兼六園

金沢能楽美術館

Tomo C

21st Century Museum ofContemporary Art, Kanazawa

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Hokusando 北山堂
Hirosaka
広坂

金沢21世紀美術館

Between the garden and the shopping district
ith various craft shops, galleries and museums,
including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, this street between Kenrokuen Garden andbustling shopping area is nicknamed “Art Street”. Walking
down this street you can see examples of traditional andcontemporary art and handicrafts, and how Kanazawa
embraces the style of both. It may be diﬃcult to decide
where to go after the 21st Century Museum. If you wantto buy local handmade crafts, we recommend Kanazawa
crafts Hirosaka next to the museum.
There has been a wealth of traditional handicrafts
techniques that have been handed down since the feudal
time in Kanazawa. As well as the nationally famous
kinpaku, there is also Kutani ceramicware and Kaga Yuzen
dyeing. Kanazawa, however, doesn’t cling to its heritage.
It actually draws on its rich legacy to inspire newcreations. That is why Kanazawa has been registered as acity of crafts by UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network. The
pieces Kanazawa Craft Hirosaka sells are rare traditional
handicrafts such as Kaga inlay, tea ceremony pots,
paulownia crafts, bamboo crafts, and washi paper. The
item pictured is an example of embroidered thimbles
called Kaga Yubinuki, which are wonderful accessories.
These handmade crafts have a simple beauty and warmththat will add charm and culture to your day-to-day life.

W

K

The 350-year-history stillcreates something new!

石川門案内所

石川四高記念文化交流館

H 金沢エクセルホテル東急

Hotel Acty Kanazawa
Ume-no Hashi Bridge 梅の橋

Ishikawa-Mon
Information Center

The Forth High School
Memorial Museum ofCultural Exchange

15 Kohrinbo Nichigin-mae

片町

野
川

兼六園下

金沢城公園

東横イン金沢兼六園香林坊

菅原神社
Japanese Restaurant
Jugatsuya 十月亭

H
B&B Ginmatsu 銀松

Rest Houseaw■■
Sugawara Jinja Shrine
R R

R H

Kyohdenya

浅野川大橋

町屋金沢菊乃や

桃組 C

9Kenrokuen-shita

Kanazawa CastlePark

H Toyoko Inn Kanazawa

宇多須神社

M

Bistro Todoroki-Tei とどろき亭
Chayu 茶ゆ
6 R
CRestaurant Jiyuken 自由軒!
RHashibacho
Koban-mae
Soyasoya C
橋場町 交番前
Rice shop S

Asanogawa
Ohashi Bridge

C!
16 Kohrinbo Toyoko-Inn-mae
香林坊 東横イン前

Utasu Jinja Shrine

Momogumi•From Higashi Cyayagai District: 1.1km /14-min-walk•From Ohmicho Market: 1.2km /14-min-walk•From Nagamachi Bukeyashiki: 1.0km /13-min-walk•From JR Kanazawa Station: 2.3km /29-min-walk

Loop Bus ❾ Bus stop
Kenrokuen-shita

60min / 4km

HigashiHoyasake ほやさけ
Chayagai District SobaRestaurant
Mizuho みずほ

Kazuemachi Gold leaf Sakuda さくだ S
Japanese Restaurant Hotaruya 螢屋
Chayagai District
主計町茶屋街Route for walkEnjoy treasure hunt feeling
Kanazawa’s craftsmen spirit
Kaga Yubinuki - The Traditional Thimble(1 peace): 3,800 yen

Kanazawa Craft Hirosaka[ 金沢･クラフト広坂 ]1-2-25 Hirosaka
Phone 076-265-3320
Open: 10:00-18:00;
closed Mondays
Credit cards: Most accepted13

Nagamachi Bukeyashiki District
Route for walk

Loop Bus 15Bus stop
Kohrinbo Nichigin-mae

30min / 2km

M Ashigaru Shiryokan
金沢市足軽資料館

Nagamachi
Bukeyashiki District
Japanese Garden

Bukeyashiki Kyukei-Kan

野村家
C M

和菓子 村上Souvenir
金沢わらじ屋Kohrinbo
北國新聞会館
Golosetto
16 Toyoko-inn-mae

Kutani-Yaki Ware

S M

Souvenir
金沢夢工房

Kayuan 菓遊庵MuseumKanazawa Shinise Kinen-Kan

Izakaya
高崎 R

IzakayaJapanese

Shiki-no Table

Waremokou
吾亦紅Bistro Olive
Cafe

Kanazawa Excel Hotel Tokyu H

R RJapanese

近江町市場

S Daiwa Dept. Store
香林坊大和

Feel the humble spirits of Kanazawa’s
samurai and craftsmen
ith wood and clay houses and narrow cobblestone streets, its clear that the Nagamachi
Bukeyashiki District isn’t an area that changes needlessly. Most visitors will be struck by how the
district still has the feeling of the samurai that lived
here so many years ago. Even though many of thehouses in this district are old, they are actually from
the Meiji period and not samurai houses at all.
Kaburaki Shoho is an elegant townhouse in theheart of Nagamachi that exhibits and sells Kutani
ceramicware.
Kutani Ceramic is a signature craftwork of Ishikawa but
is still surrounded in mystery. In the mid 1600s the ﬁrst
kilns were built under the patronage of the Maeda
Family. It produced the distinctive pottery with boldcomposition and brushwork that people today call
“Ko-Kutani” (literally old Kutani). In 1710 the kiln
abruptly closed down, the reason is unknown. About
100 years later the kiln was reopened and run by the
Kaga clan. Since then, various styles of Kutani havebeen produced. The typical Kutani style features
ﬂowers and birds with seasonal elements usuallyapplied in ﬁve Kutani colors (green, yellow, red,
purple, and dark blue). These are functional, beautiful
pieces of art that will stand the test of time.

Kutani-yaki 5 dishes (#3) : 4,620 yen

Kaburaki [ 鏑木商舗 ]1-3-16 Nagamachi
Phone 076-221-6666
Open: 9:00-22:00 (Mon-Sat),
9:00-18:00 (Sundays andnational holidays)
Credit cards: Most accepted

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百万石うどんTakeout Sushi

Seafood Bowl R

Shuraku 舟楽

R RRJapanese

R JapaneseJimono-Tei
R
Sushi

Ramen Noodle

R
Seafood Bowl

Ohtomo-Ya
大友家

じもの亭 Sushi

Ohmichoichiba-Zushi

Sushi Genpei 鮨源平

近江町市場寿しSeafood Bowl
R Kaisendon-Ya
海鮮どん屋

Coﬀee Shop
C Higashide Coﬀee-Ten 東出珈琲店

The market is the center of Kanazawa’s food cultureW

Meet traditionaland colorful ceramic ware

近江町市場寿し本店

Hyakumangoku Udon

Hirai ひら井Inoya 井ノ弥
Shopping
Guide

Yamasan-Zushi 山さん鮨Sushi

Ohmicho-ichiba-Zushi

海鮮丼いちばGinno Kaze 銀の風 R

Kohrinbo 109 香林坊109

Sushi

R

Kaisendon Ichiba

Japanese 刺身屋

Ohmicho Market

Meromero Pochi メロメロポッチ

C

R Udon Noodle

R
Seafood Bowl

近江町食堂

香林坊日銀前RS

Sashimi-Ya

Shopping MallS

Morimori Zushi

Ohmicho Shokudo

Kohrinbo€$ Nichigin-maeR

もりもり寿司

近江町いちば館

R R
Sushi

R Sushi

OhmichoIchiba-Kan Bldg.

Kotetsu こてつ

回転寿し大倉C Flore フロール 15
R

金沢エクセルホテル東急

Seafood Bowl

Kaiten-zushi Ohkura

ビストロ オリーヴ

R

Mister Donut
ミスタードーナツ

武蔵ヶ辻

Sarrasin サラザン

R 四季のテーブル

金沢市老舗記念館 M

18

French & Italian

TakasakiKanazawa Yume-Kohbo

Japanese Cafe C

C

Musashigatsuji

GaletteRS

H Toyoko Inn Kanazawa
Akiyoshi 秋吉 東横イン金沢兼六園香林坊

Gyohan 魚半 R

鏑木商舗

CJapanese Cafe

香林坊東横イン前

ゴロゼット R

Japanese

Cafe

R
S Japanese Paper
Donut C Araki あらき

スターバックス

Ohmicho Shiroebi-Tei 近江町白えび亭

いきいき亭

R

Coﬀee Shop

Starbucks

R Yakitori

Kaburaki ShohoS
S

Nikore 似故礼

Shopping
Guide

Hokkoku Shinbun
Kaikan Bldg.

Glass Shrimp DishIki-iki-Tei

RCaﬀè Arco Mercato
カフェアルコ メルカート

Italian

Nomura-Ke!

Wagashi Murakami

Kanazawa Warajiya

金沢職人大学校

Museum

武家屋敷休憩館

Japanese Sweets

GardenKanazawa
Shokunin Daigakko

茶菓工房たろうInformationR

世界の食品ダイアモンド

Seafood Bowl
Italian

S Lawson ローソン

Sekai-no-Shokuhin DiamondJapanese Cafe

Bankyu 萬久

Convenience Store

楽亭

Japanese Sweets & Cafe

Saka Kobo Taro

15min / 1km
めいてつ･エムザ

IzakayaRakuteiR

旧高田家 M•From JR Kanazawa Station: 1.0km /12-min-walk•From Higashi Cyayagai District: 1.0km /12-min-walk•From Kenrokuen Garden: 1.2km /14-min-walk•From Nagamachi Bukeyashiki: 1.3km /15-min-walk

Loop Bus 18Bus stop
Musashigatsuji

Meitetsu M’za Dept. Store S

Ureshino うれし野

金沢聖霊病院

Kyu Takada-Ke

Route for walkInternational Market
Japanese

Kanazawa Seirei Byoin
hospital

長町武家屋敷跡

Ohmicho Market•From Kenrokuen Garden: 1.0km /13-min-walk•From Ohmicho Market: 1.3km /15-min-walk•From JR Kanazawa station: 1.9km /23-min-walk•From Higashi Cyayagai District: 2.3km /28-min-walkmicho Market is a sensory overloaded, a riot of colors
and aromas jostling shoppers about. No sightseeing
trip is complete without a visit here! This openair market
was established around the middle of the 18th century andserved Kanazawa castle for years as the “Lord’s Kitchen.” In
the Meiji period, the market became public as the “Citizen’s
Kitchen.” There are as many as 170 stalls in the market, allclose together, selling everything from fresh ﬁsh,vegetables, fruit, meat, dried and pickled food to everyday
items like clothes. If you visit in the winter you’ll see a ton of
fresh snow crab (some still alive) being sold everywhere.
It is fun to just hang out and listen to stall keepers calling out
trying to convince people to buy their wares, but it is evenmore fun to buy something to eat such as grilled seafood,barbecued chicken, or a Japanese croquette. There are also
numerous restaurants serving seafood. If you want to eat
sushi, why not visit one of the Kaiten-Zushi (conveyor belt
sushi) restaurants? As you sit, pieces of sushi are constantly
traveling around the conveyor belt. When you see one thatlooks delicious, just grab it and eat it. The diﬀerent plates
represent the diﬀerent prices for each type of sushi. The
restaurant will usually post what each plate costs so there
will be no surprises with your bill. Kaiten-Zushi is cheaper
than traditional sushi bars, but with the quality of theseafood at Ohmicho, the taste is sill amazing.

O

Eat Sushi inthe “Kanazawa’s kitchen”
Nigiri-sushi: 120 yen~ / one dish (2 pieces)

Omicho-Ichiba-Zushi[ 近江町市場寿し本店 ]28-1 Shimo-Ohmicho
Phone 076-261-9330
Open: 10:30-20:00
Credit cards: Not accepted*English menu available.

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