Convection
Heater Model
2460, 2461,
2462

1135

Homeowner’s Installation and Operating Manual

SAFETY NOTICE
If this heater is not properly installed, operated, and maintained, a housefire may result. For safety, follow all installation, operation and maintenance directions. Contact local building officials about restrictions andinstallation inspection requirements in your area.

DO NOT DISCARD THIS MANUAL: Retain for future use
7001135 10/02 Rev. 9

Dutchwest

The Dutchwest models covered in this Owner’s Guide have been tested andlisted by Inchcape Testing Services / Warnock Hersey of Middleton, Wisconsin. The test standards utilized were ANSI/UL 1482 for the United States and
CAN/CGA - B366.2 for Canada. Dutchwest models are not listed for mobile
home installations.

PLEASE NOTE
Please read this entire manual berfore you installand use your new room heater. Failure to follow
instructins my result in property damage, bodily
injury or loss of life. Save these instructions for
future use.

Table of Contents
Specifications ............................................................ 3

Installation ......................................................... 4
Clearances ...................................................... 12
Assembly ......................................................... 16
Operation ........................................................ 17
Maintenance .................................................... 22
Illustrated Parts List ......................................... 30

Accessories• Bottom Heat Shield• Clearance-reducing Rear Heat Shields• Clearance-reducing Heat Shields for single-wallstove pipe• 2” legs• Warming shelves (Small and Large Heaters only)• Two-speed convection blower• Automatic thermostat for the blower

Proposition 65 Warning: Fuels used in gas,
woodburning or oil fired appliances, and the products of
combustion of such fuels, contain chemicals known to
the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects
and other reproductive harm.
California Health & Safety Code Sec. 25249.6
Patents: U.S. - D288357, 4502395, 4646712;
Canada - 1235969. Other foreign mechanical patents issued.

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Specifications
A

D

G
C
F

B

E

Stove Model Number

2460

A22” (560mm)
B
21” (530mm)C
29³⁄₄” (754mm)
D16” (410mm)E
14³⁄₄” (375mm)F
26³⁄₄” (683mm)G
29³⁄₄” (754mm)
Log length:19” (480mm)
Maximum burn time1:
8 hrs.
Average area heated (sq. ft.)2: 700-1,400 (65-130m2)
Range of heat output4: 7,800 - 26,800 Btu/hr.
Maximum heat output:
35,000 Btu/hr.
EPA emissions rating4 (g/h, catalytic):
1.67
Weight:
380 lbs. (172 kg)
Loading:
Side or front
Flue exit position (reversible):
Top or rear
Air controls:
2 controls

2461

2462

1135

25³⁄₄” (654mm)
28¹⁄₄” (717mm)
24¹⁄₂” (620mm)
27” (690mm)
30” (760mm)
33” (840mm)
16” (410mm)
18¹⁄₄” (467mm)
14⁵⁄₈” (380mm)
17” (430mm)
27” (690mm)
30¹⁄₈” (763mm)
30” (760mm)
33” (840mm)
22” (560mm)
25” (640mm)
9 hrs.
12 hrs.
800-1,600 (75-150m2) 1,200-2,400 (112-224m2)
11,300 - 26,800 Btu/hr.
10,500-27,700 Btu/hr5
40,000 Btu/hr.
55,000 Btu/hr.
1.87
1.01
436 lbs. (198 kg)
634 lbs. (288 kg)
Side or front
Side or front
Top or rear
Top or rear
2 controls
2 controls

Fig. 1 Dutchwest Convection Heater specifications.

1. Maximum burn times and heat outputs are based on laboratory testing using full loads of seasoned hardwoods, and may vary in individual use
depending on how the stove is operated, type and moisture content of fuels, and other factors. Maximum burn times are achieved under different
operating conditions than are maximum heat outputs.
2. These values are based on operation in building code-conforming homes under typical Winter climate conditions in the northeastern U.S. If yourhome is of nonstandard construction (e.g. unusually well-insulated, not insulated, built underground, or if you live in a more severe or moretemperate climate), these figures may not apply. Since so many variables affect performance, consult your Dutchwest Authorized Dealer todetermine realistic expectations for your home.
4. Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions testing.
5. Based on preliminary results obtained during EPA emissions testing.

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Installation
SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR DUTCHWESTCONVECTION HEATER IS NOT PROPERLYINSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAINTAINED, A
HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. FOR SAFETY,FOLLOW ALL INSTALLATION, OPERATION AND
MAINTENANCE DIRECTIONS. CONTACT LOCALBUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND
INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN
YOUR AREA.
Before you begin the installation, review your plans toconfirm that:• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enoughfrom combustible material to meet all clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is constructed
properly to meet all requirements.
• You have obtained all necessary permits from local
authorities.
Your local building official is the final authority for
approving your installation as safe and for determiningthat it meets local and state codes.
Clearance and installation information is printed on themetal label attached to the rear of the stove. Local
authorities generally will accept the label as evidence
that, when the stove is installed according to theinformation on the label and in this manual, the installation meets codes and can be approved.

Masonry Chimneys
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove isinstalled. Your local professional chimney sweep,building inspector, or fire department official will beable either to make the inspection or to direct you tosomeone who can.
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has alining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should also be examined for cracks, loose mortar, othersigns of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any
defects before the chimney is used with your stove.
Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must
be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimneywall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Openings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard
and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.
In the event of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may
be forced out of these unused thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to thestandards of your local building code or, in the absenceof a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainlesssteel pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner.
The chimney’s clean-out door must seal tightly.

Codes vary in different areas, however. Before starting
the installation, review your plans with the local building
authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional
information needed.

Prefabricated Double-Wall
Insulated Chimney

Important: Failure to follow these installation instructions may result in a dangerous situation, including achimney or house fire. Follow all instructions exactly,
and do not allow makeshift compromises to endanger
property and personal safety.

Chimney Types
Your Dutchwest Convection Heater must be connected
to a sound masonry chimney that meets local codes, arelined masonry chimney that meets local codes, or toan approved prefabricated metal chimney. Whatever
kind you use, the chimney and chimney connector
must be in good condition and kept clean.

4

Tile Lined
Masonry
Chimney

ST241

Fig. 2 If in sound condition and approved for use, either amasonry or a prefabricated chimney may be used.

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Prefabricated Chimneys
A prefabricated metal chimney must be one tested andlisted for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
A horizontal connector run should be inclined 1/4" perfoot (20 mm per meter) from the stove toward thechimney. The recommended maximum length of ahorizontal run is 3 feet (1m) and the total length ofchimney connector should be no longer than 8 feet
(2.5m).

Chimney Height
For proper draft and good performance, the chimney
should extend at least 16' (5 m) above the flue collar of
the stove.
The chimney must also extend at least 3' (900 mm)
above the highest point where it passes through a roof,
and at least 2' (600 mm) higher than any portion of abuilding within 10' (3 m). (Fig. 2)
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEYFLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

3'
MIN.

0 TO 10'

Do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling, or through an attic, a closet or any
similar concealed space. If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, follow the recommendations in the following section on Wall Pass-Throughs.
Keep the passage as short and direct as possible, withno more than two 90 degree turns.

Two Types of Connector
You may use either a single-wall steel connector of thesize and gauge described below, or a listed andapproved double-wall connector.

Single-Wall Connector

Install single-wall chimney connector not less than 18"(450 mm) from the ceiling.

2' MIN.

3'MIN.

REFERENCE
POINT
AC246

Fig. 3 The 2/3/10 rule for chimneys.

Chimney Size
The Model 2460 and 2461 heaters should be vented
into a masonry chimney with a square flue with nominal flue size of 8" x 8" (200 x 200 mm), or a round flue
with nominal flue size of 6" (150 mm). The Model 2462
heater should be vented into a masonry chimney with anominal flue size of 8” x 8” (200 mm x 200 mm)
square, or 8” (200 mm) round.
Chimney liners larger than 8" x 12" (200 x 300 mm)
may promote rapid cooling of smoke and reduction indraft, especially if they are located outside the home.
These large chimneys may need to be insulated orhave their flues relined for proper stove performance.
Accessories to help make the connection between
stainless steel chimney liners and the stove are available through your local dealer.

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The chimney connector is the single-wall pipe, or listed
and approved double-wall pipe that connects the stove
to the chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or
prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chimney connectors are used only to make the connection
from the stove to the chimney.

The single-wall chimney connector should be made of
24 gauge or heavier steel, and must have a minimum
internal diameter of 6" (150 mm) for models 2460 and
2461, or 8” (200 mm) for model 2462.

0 TO 10'
2' MIN.

Guidelines For Installing
The Chimney Connector

In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricated chimney downward to within 8 feet (2.5 meters)of the stove. The entire chimney connector should be
exposed and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
Do not use galvanized chimney connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached bysmoke and exhaust gases and it may release toxic
fumes under high heat.
Chimney
Elbow

Flue Liner
Flue
ThimbleSlip Pipe
Standard Connector

Flue Collar

Floor Protector

ST418

Fig. 4 Sections of a steel chimney connector of at least 24
gauge thickness are fastened together with screws toconnect the stove to the chimney.

5Dutchwest

Double-Wall Connector
Information on assembling and installing double-wallconnectors is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions exactly. Most manufacturers ofprefabricated double-wall insulated chimneys also offer
double-wall connector pipes. Using a chimney andconnector pipe from the same manufacturer helps
simplify the assembly and installation.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connectors, minimum clearances must conform to listed
clearances in the Stove and Chimney Connector
Clearance Charts on page 12 and 13 of thismanual.

Assembling Single-Wall
Chimney Connector
SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and safety
goggles when drilling, cutting or joining sectionsof chimney connector.
For double-wall connectors, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly. For single-wall connectors, follow
the instructions below.
1. Insert the crimped end of the first section into thestove’s flue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing
toward the stove (Fig.5). Using the holes in the flue
collar as guides, drill 1/8" (3 mm) holes in the bottom of
the first section of chimney connector and secure it to
the flue collar with three #10 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.

TowardStove

2. Secure each joint between sections of chimney
connector, including telescoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws.
3. Secure the chimney connector to the chimney.
Instructions for various installations follow below.
4. Confirm that the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from nearby combustible
material. See the clearance charts on pages 12 and 13.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney connector are available to simplify installations. They caneliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.

Securing The Connector To A
Prefabricated Chimney
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney
manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The
manufacturer of the chimney will supply the accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof of thehouse, at the ceiling of the room where the stove isinstalled, or from an exterior wall.
Special adaptors are available from your local dealer tomake the connection between the prefabricated chimney and the chimney connector. (Fig. 6) The top ofsuch adaptors attach directly to the chimney or to thechimney's ceiling support package, while the bottom of
the adaptor is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adaptors are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
Any soot or creosote falling from the inner walls of thechimney will stay inside the chimney connector.

Prefab (Insulated)
Chimney

Flue Gas
Direction

ST242

Fig. 5 Crimped sections always point toward the stove sothat any liquid condensation will not leak out.

Ceiling Support
Package
Prefab Chimney
Adapter
Chimney Connector(Stovepipt)
ST419

Fig. 6 Joining the chimney connector to a prefabricatedchimney.

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Securing The Connector
To A Masonry Chimney
The Dutchwest Convection heaters may be connected
to either a freestanding masonry chimney or a masonry
fireplace chimney.

ThimbleSleeveFlue
Elbow

ThimbleKeep
SleeveEnd Flushwith Flue
Tile

Freestanding Installations
If the chimney connector must pass through a combustible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommendations in the wall pass-through section that follows.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the“breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely cemented in place. (Fig. 7) Most chimney breeches
incorporate thimbles, but check to be sure the fit issnug and the joint between thimble and chimney wall
firmly cemented.
A special piece called the "thimble sleeve," slightly
smaller in diameter than the standard connector andmost thimbles, will ease the removal of the chimney
connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer.
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until it
is flush with the inner flue wall. Don't extend it into theactual flue passage, as that could interfere with thedraft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2" (25-50 mm)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure thechimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve withsheet metal screws.

Fireplace Installations Above the Fireplace
In this installation, the chimney connector rises fromthe stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into thefireplace chimney. The liner of the fireplace chimney
should extend at least to the point at which the chimney connector enters the chimney. Follow all theguidelines for installing a chimney connector into afreestanding masonry chimney, and pay special
attention to these additional points:

Chimney
Connector
Flue LinerFig. 7 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented in place securely.
Masonry Wall
Ceramic Flue Liner

Chimney
Connector Shield
Block-Off Plate
Chimney Connector

ST244aFig. 8 The connector enters flue above the fireplace. If theclearance between the chimney connector and either themantel and/or the ceiling is inadequate, special protective
shields will be required.

Flue Liner
Extend Chimney
Connector to the First
Tile of the Flue Liner

Observe
Miniumum Clearances• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances
to combustible mantel or trim materials. Use thenecessary combination of mantel, trim, and connector heat shields to provide the required clearances.
(Fig. 8)• Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.
• The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed toprevent room air from being drawn up the flue,
reducing the draft. However, it must be possible tore-open the damper to inspect or clean the chimney.

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ST243

ST245aDamperPlate isRemvoedor Locked
in OpenPosition

Close Off theDamperOpening with
Sheet Metal
and SealantFig. 9 The connector passes through the fireplace to enter
flue. Special Fireplace Adapter Kits to simplify fireplaceinstallations are available from your local dealer.

7

Dutchwest

Fireplace Installations Through the Fireplace
The Convection heaters may be installed either without
legs* as a fireplace insert, or with standard legs
attached - depending on the safety regulations that
apply to your situation, the height of the fireplace
opening and your own preference. For either situation,
the chimney connector/positive connection kit extends
back from the stove, enters the fireplace cavity, andturns upward. It then passes through the fireplace
damper opening and smoke chamber and connects tothe chimney flue.
In such installations, a “positive connection” must be
made to the chimney flue with a special kit available
from your local dealer. Also, special clearance andfloor protection provisions must be observed. These
provisions are discussed in the Clearance and Floor
Protection sections respectively.

Wall Pass-Throughs
Whenever possible, design your installation so theconnector does not pass through a combustible wall. If
you must use a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin
and construct it in accordance with local building
codes. Also check with the chimney connector manufacturer for any specific requirements.

12”(305mm)Chimney
Connector

12”(305mm)ST420

Fig. 10 Wall pass-through enclosed with noncombustible
materials.

18”(450mm)Empty SpaceAll Aroundthe Chimney
Connector

Sheet Metal
Cover(One side
only)

Accessories are available for use as wall passthroughs. If using one of these, make sure it has beentested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
All combustible material in the wall is cut away a
sufficient distance from the single-wall connector toprovide the required 12" (305 mm) clearance for theconnector. Any material used to close up the opening
must be noncombustible.
The following wall pass-through methods may beapproved in your area:• Use a section of listed factory-built chimney with anine-inch clearance to combustibles.

• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a ventilated
thimble, which is then separated from combustibles
by six inches (152 mm) of fiberglass insulating
material.

• If the stove is installed without legs, we recommend
the use of noncombustible tiles or pavers as shims
to allow air flow into the convection air inlets under
the stove. Make sure not to block air slots instovebottom with shims or remove fan cover.

ST421

Fig. 11 Hollow wall pass-through.

chimney connector and having 1 inch (25.4 mm) or
more of insulation and maintaining a minimum 2 inch
air space between the outer wall of the chimney andcombustibles.
DO NOT CONNECT THE HEATER TO ANY AIR
DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
In Canada: The Canadian Standards Association has
established different guidelines. Figure 11 shows one
method, in which all combustible material in the wall is
cut away to provide the required 18" (450 mm) clearance for the connector. The resulting space mustremain empty.

• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a section oflisted solid-insulated, factory-built chimney, with aninside diameter 2 inches (51 mm) larger than the87001135

Dutchwest

A flush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on
one side only. If covers must be used on both sides,
each cover must be mounted on non-combustible
spacers at least 1" (25 mm) clear of the wall. Your
Dutchwest dealer or your local building inspector can
provide details of other approved methods of passing achimney connector through a combustible wall. In
Canada, this type of installation must conform to CAN/
CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning
Appliances and Equipment.

B

A

B

NOTE: Do not vent your Dutchwest stove into afactory-built (zero-clearance) fireplace. These appliances and their chimneys are specifically designed asa unit for use as fireplaces. It may void the listing or be
hazardous to adapt them for any other use.

A
ST422

Floor Protection
A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom
plate of your Dutchwest stove. The floor area directly
under and around the stove will require protection fromradiant heat as well as from stray sparks or embersthat may escape the firebox.
Heat protection is provided through the use of a
Vermont Castings Bottom Heat Shield. Spark andember protection must be provided by a floor protector
constructed with noncombustible material as specified.
Most installations will require that the bottom heatshield be attached. Only when the stove is placed on acompletely noncombustible surface such as unpainted
concrete over earth may it be used without the heatshield.
Even when the bottom heat shield is installed, youmust provide special protection to the floor beneath.
For installation with the heat shield attached, use anoncombustible floor protector such as 1/4" nonasbestos mineral board or equivalent, or 24 gauge
sheet metal. The floor protector may be covered with adecorative noncombustible material if desired. Do not
obstruct the space under the heater.
Protection requirements vary somewhat between the
United States and Canada as follows:
U.S. Installations: The floor protector is required under
the stove and must extend at least 16 inches from thefront and left (loading door) side of the stove, and at
least 6 inches from the right side and rear. (Fig. 12)
Refer to Figure 12 for minimum noncombustible floor
protection dimensions for each stove model.
In Canada: a noncombustible floor protector is required
under the heater also. The floor protector must extend
18 inches (457mm) from the front and left (loadingdoor) side of the stove, and at least 8 inches (203mm)
from the right side and rear. (Fig. 12)
Due to the side loading door, floor protector requirements call for more protection on the left side than on

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A.
B.

U.S.

Canada6”
16”

8” (200mm)
18” (457mm)

Minimum Dimensions for Noncombustible Floor
Protectors (Depth x Width):
Model

U.S.

Canada

2460
2461
2462

38” x 44”38” x 48”42” x 52”42” x 48” (1067mm x 1219mm)
42” x 52” (1067mm x 1320mm)
46” x 56” (1168mm x 1422mm)

Fig. 12 Be sure to follow exactly the floor protection requirements on all four sides of the stove.

A

ST423

Fig. 13 Combustible supporting timbers (A) may lie beneath
fireplace hearths; such situations require additional floor
protection.

the right. If you wish a more balanced look, increase
the other side of the hearth as well. Do not reduceside protection under any circumstances.

Fireplace Installations
You may install your Dutchwest Convection Heater inan existing fireplace as a fireplace insert with no legs,*
or with the standard legs attached.
To install the heater without legs as a fireplace insert,
the floor must be completely noncombustible, such as
an unpainted concrete floor over earth.
9Dutchwest

Many fireplaces do not satisfy the “completely noncombustible” requirement because the brick or concrete
hearth in front of the fireplace opening usually is
supported by heavy wooden framing as in Figure 13.
Because heat passes readily through brick or concrete,
it can easily pass through to the wood. As a result, suchfireplace hearths are considered a combustible floor.
You may not install a heater on a combustible
hearth without legs. Standard leg installations must
include the bottom heat shield. The floor protector
must also meet standard requirements for freestanding
installations.

Clearance is the distance between either your stove or
chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, theceiling, and any other fixed combustible surface. Keepfurnishings and other combustible materials away fromthe stove as well. In general, a distance of 48" (1220mm) must be maintained between the stove andmoveable combustible items such as drying clothes,furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keeping those
clearance areas empty assures that nearby surfaces
and objects will not overheat.

Floor Protection for Fireplace
Installations with Standard Legs

Your stove has specific clearance requirements thathave been established through careful research andtesting to UL and ULC standards.

Fireplace installations with the standard legs and thebottom heat shield must have a floor protector of thesame construction as that specified for freestanding
installations: 1/4" non-asbestos mineral board orequivalent, or 24 gauge sheet metal (that may becovered with a decorative noncombustible material if
you desire). The floor protector must extend at least16" (406 mm) [18” / 457 mm in Canada] from the frontof the stove and from the left (loading door) side, andat least 6" (152 mm) from the right side and rear. It
must also provide protection beneath any horizontal
runs of the chimney connector, including 2" to either
side.

Clearance requirements have been established to meet
every installation possibility, and they involve the
combination of basic variables:

Many raised hearths will extend less than the required
distance from the front of the heater when it is installed.
In such cases, sufficient floor protection, as describedabove, must be added to extend the hearth 16” (406mm) [18” (457 mm) in Canada].

In general, the greatest clearance is required when you
locate a stove with no heat shield near a wall with noheat shield. The least clearance is required when boththe stove and the wall have heat shields. Reducing a
stove clearance may require a listed heat shield on thechimney connector as well, or a double-wall connector.

Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection.
Fireplace insert installations also have specific clearance requirements to the side walls, side decorative
trim, and fireplace mantel. This information is found in“Fireplace Installation Clearances” in this section.

Safe Ways To Reduce Clearances

•
•
•
•
•
•

When the stove has no listed heat shield
When the stove has a listed heat shield
When the wall has no heat shield
When the wall has a heat shield
When the stove has a double-wall chimney
connector.
When the stove has a single-wall connector
wit heat shields, or without heat shields.

Clearances may be reduced only by means approvedby the regulatory authority and in accordance with theclearances listed in this manual. The charts and sample
installations that follow list all the clearances required
for the various installation configurations of Dutchwest
Convection Heaters.

REMINDER- FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATIONSWITHOUT LEGS ARE PERMISSIBLE ONLY IF THE
HEARTH IS COMPLETELY NONCOMBUSTIBLE,
SUCH AS UNPAINTED CONCRETE OVER EARTH.

Keep The Stove A Safe Distance From
Surrounding Materials
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat inall directions when operating. A safe installation
requires that adequate clearance be maintained
between the stove and nearby combustible materials toensure that such materials do not overheat.

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M
M

T
S

ST426
ST424

Fig. 14 Extra floor protection may be required for thefireplace hearth, even if your stove is installed with the legs
and the bottom heat shield.

Fireplace Installation Clearances
A fireplace installation requires special clearance
between the:Model:Side Walls (S)Trim (T)Mantel (M)2460
20” (510mm)
12” (300mm)
20” (510mm)

2461
2462
24” (610mm) 23” (580mm)
12” (300mm) 12” (30mm)
20” (510mm) 20” (510mm)

Fig. 15 Minimum clearances for fireplace installation.
Recommended clearances must be maintained between
stove and the surrounding combustible components.

• Side of the stove and the right and left walls• Side of the stove and the decorative side trim on
the fireplace face

• Top of the stove and the mantel
In addition, both Fireplace Adaptor and Fireplace Insert
installations have special floor protection requirementsthat are addressed in the section on Floor Protection.

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Designing a Safe Installation

Clearance Chart Reference Diagrams

The section that follows contains charts with theinformation that you'll need to make your installation
safe. Included are a chart to tell you exactly where to
cut the hole in the ceiling so that the stove will meetclearance requirements, a chart that gives stoveclearances for all installations, and a chart to illustrate
the required sizes of wall shields for various installations.

Refer to the diagrams below when using the Stove andChimney Connector Clearance Chart which follows.
For example, the letter “A” gives the minimum sideclearance for installations in which the stove is not
equipped with a rear heat shield and the wall besidethe stove is not protected. “D” gives the minimum sideclearance when the stove does not have a rear heatshield, but the wall is protected.

Refer to these charts as you plan the installation anddo not compromise on any of the dimensions listed.

Measure clearance distances from the top plate of thestove or chimney connector to the wall, not the wall
protector.

Unprotected Surfaces

Protected Surfaces

Parallel Installations

Corner Installations
C

B

Parallel Installations

Corner Installations
F

E

A

D
C

F

Installations with no stove heat shields
H

J
G

N/A

N/A

I

Rear exit, rear heat shield installations
L

M

P

O

K

N
M

P

ST255aTop exit, rear heat shield and chimney connector heat shields or double wall connector

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Stove and Chimney Connector Clearance Charts
Model 2460 Small Convection, and Model 2461 Large Convection:
UNPROTECTED SURFACES
Parallel Installations

Stove Clearance

PROTECTED SURFACES

Corner
Installations

Parallel Installations

Corner
Installations

Side

Rear

CornerSide

Rear

CornerNo heat shields[A] 22” (560 mm)[B] 24” (610 mm)[C] 18” (460 mm)[D] 12” (300 mm)[E] 14” (360 mm)[F] 10” (250 mm)

Rear exit, rear h.s.

[G] 22” (560 mm)[H] 14” (360 mm)

N/A[I] 12” (300 mm)[J] 12” (300 mm)

N/A

Top exit1, rear h.s.
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s.

[K] 22” (560 mm)[L] 24” (610 mm)[M] 18” (460 mm)[N] 12” (300 mm)[O] 14” (360 mm)[P] 10” (250 mm)[K] 22” (560 mm)[L] 14” (360 mm)[M] 15” (380 mm)[N] 12”(300 mm)[O] 12” (360 mm)[P] 8” (200 mm)[K] 22” (560 mm)[L] 19” (480 mm)[M] 15” (380 mm)[N] 12” (300 mm[O] 11” (280 mm)[P] 8” (200 mm)

Top exit1,2 , rear h.s.
Single-wall connector with connector h.s.
Top exit1 , rear h.s.
Double-wall connector

Chimney Connector Clearance:
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s

19” 480 mm)

9” (230 mm)

Single-wall2 connector
With connector h.s.

9” (360 mm)

7” (180 mm)

Double-wall connector14” (360 mm)

6” (150 mm)

Front Clearance to Combustibles:48” (1220 mm) (All Installations)

Model 2462 Extra-Large Convection:
UNPROTECTED SURFACES
Parallel Installations

Stove Clearance

PROTECTED SURFACES

Corner
Installations

Parallel Installations

Side

Rear

CornerSide

Rear

Corner
Installations
CornerNo heat shields[A] 20” (510 mm)[B] 23” (580 mm)[C] 18” (460 mm)[D] 18” (460 mm)[E] 18” (460 mm) [F] 17” (430 mm)

Rear exit, rear h.s.

[G] 20” (510 mm)[H] 18” (460 mm)

N/A[I] 18” (460 mm)[J] 12” (300 mm)

Top exit1, rear h.s.
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s.

[K] 20” (510 mm)[L] 23” (580 mm)[M] 18” (460 mm)[N] 18” (460 mm)[O] 18” (460 mm) [P] 17” (430 mm)[K] 20” (510 mm)[L] 18” (460 mm)[M] 17” (430 mm)[N] 18” (460 mm)[O] 12” (300 mm) [P] 15” (380 mm)[K] 20” (510 mm)[L] 14” (360 mm)[M] 16” (410 mm)[N] 18” (460 mm)[O] 12” (300 mm) [P] 15” (380 mm)

Top exit1,2 , rear h.s.
Single-wall connector with connector h.s.
Top exit1 , rear h.s.
Double-wall connector

N/A

Chimney Connector Clearance:
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s

18” (460 mm)

13” (330 mm)

Single-wall2 connector
With connector h.s.

13” (330 mm)

7” (180 mm)3,4

Double-wall connector8” (200 mm)

6” (150 mm)

Front Clearance to Combustibles:48” (1220 mm) (All Installations)

1 Shielding for a top exit stove must include a shield insert to protect the area behind the flue collar.
2 Chimney connector heat shields must extend exactly 24” (610 mm) above the flue collar of the stove.
3 All installations venting straight up to a factory built chimney require a 24” (610 mm) diameter or square ceiling heat shield. The ceilingheat shield should be 24 gauge sheet metal or equivalent mounted on 1” (25 mm) non-combustible spacers 1” (25 mm) below ceiling.
4 Chimney connector heat shields must extend to within 1” (25 mm) or less of the ceiling heat shield for installations venting straight up toa factory-built chimney. In top exit installations using an elbow to vent to the rear, the chimney connector must be shielded over theentire vertical length.
5 If a single-wall oval-to-round adaptor is used, a shield must be used to protect combustibles to the rear of the adaptor.

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Distance from Center of Flue Collar to Wall in Top-Exit Installations
Dutchwest Convection Heaters equipped with rear heat shields
NOTE: These are not clearance distances. These measurements indicate where the centerline of the flue collar will be
for various installations. Measurements are from the centerline of the flue collar to the wall, not the wall protector.

A

B

D

C

E
F

ST427

UNPROTECTED SURFACES
Parallel Installations

Chimney Connector

Side

Corner
Installations

PROTECTED SURFACES
Parallel Installations

Corner
Installations

Rear

CornerSide

Rear

Corner

MODEL 2460 (Small Convection)
Listed, Approved
Double-wall[A] 33” (840 mm)[B] 18” (460 mm)[C] 25” (640 mm)[D] 23” (580 mm)[E] 10” (250 mm)[F] 15” (380mm)

Single Wall, with
Connector Heat Shields[A] 33” (840 mm)[B] 13” (330 mm)[C] 22” (560 mm)[D] 23” (580 mm)[E] 11” (580 mm)[F] 15” (380 mm)

Single Wall, without
Connector Heat Shields[A] 33” (840 mm)[B] 23” (580 mm)[C] 25” (640 mm)[D] 23” (580 mm)[E] 13” (330 mm)[F] 17” (430 mm)

MODEL 2461 (Large Convection)
Listed, Approved
Double-wall[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 18” (460 mm)[C] 27” (690 mm)[D] 25” (640 mm)[E] 10” (250 mm)[F] 17” (430 mm)

Single Wall, with
Connector Heat Shields[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 13” (330 mm)[C] 24” (610 mm)[D] 25” (640 mm)[E] 11” (280 mm)[F] 17” (430 mm)

Single Wall, without
Connector Heat Shields[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 23” (580 mm)[C] 27” (690 mm)[D] 25” (640 mm)[E] 13” (330 mm)[F] 19” (480 mm)

MODEL 2462 (Extra-Large Convection)
Listed Approved
Double-Wall[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 13” (330 mm)[C] 26” (660 mm)[D] 33” (660 mm)[E] 11” (280 mm)[F] 25” (640 mm)

Single Wall, with
Heat Shields[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 17” (430 mm)[C] 29” (740 mm)[D] 33” (840 mm)[E] 11” (280 mm)[F] 25” (640 mm)

Single Wall, without
Heat Shields[A] 35” (890 mm)[B] 22” (560 mm)[C] 33” (840 mm)[D] 33” (840 mm)[E] 17” (430 mm)[F] 27” (690 mm)

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Dutchwest

Wall Heat Shield Dimensions
DutchWest Convection Heaters, Models #2460 (Small), #2461 (Large), and #2462 (Extra Large)

60”(1525mm)
Top Exit
48”(1220mm)48”(1220mm)
Rear Exit36” (910mm)
Centered Behind Stove
ST428

Spaced 1”(25mm)
from Floor

Spaced 1”(25mm)
from Floor

60” (1525mm)
ST429

Fig. 17 Sidewall protection.

Fig. 16 Rear wall protection.

Wall Shields
Meet atCorner60”(1525mm)48”(1220mm)

ST430

Spaced 1”(25mm)
from Floor

Fig. 18 Corner wall protection.

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AssemblyYour convection heater requires some assembly.
Follow the directions carefully and refer to the parts
diagram at the back of this manual.

Left Leg
Door
HandleHolder

Unpack the Parts
Remove all loose parts from the firebox and the ash
pan. Check to make sure all the parts are included
and intact. You should have received:• 1 fully assembled heater body, (with catalytic burner
installed at the factory)• 4 legs• 1 ash pan• 1 probe thermometer• 1 ceramic handle assembly• 1 strip of Interam™ gasket (for the catalytic burner)• 1 hardware bag, containing the following parts:• (3) #10 x 1/2" sheet metal screws, (to attach thechimney connector to the flue collar)• (1) 1/8" Allen wrench, (to tighten the door latch)• (1) 5/32” Allen wrench, (to tighten the damper
handle)• (4) washers, (used with the leg bolts to attach legs
to the stove)• (1) door handle insert holder for storing the ceramic handle assembly when it is not in use.
The four hex-head leg bolts have been installed in
the appropriate holes in the bottom of the stove.
If any parts are missing or damaged, immediately
notify your Dutchwest dealer for replacements. Do notinstall your stove without having all necessary parts or
by using damaged parts.

Heat
ShieldBracketHex Head Bolt
& Washer

ST431

Fig. 19 To attach the legs, remove the bolts from the stovebottom and reassemble with the handle holder, heat shieldbrackets (if necessary) and washers.

Stand the stove upright and carefully move it to its final
position. A trick for moving it easily over smooth flooringis to stand the stove on a piece of scrap carpet, upside
down.
If the installation includes an optional rear heat shield,
attach it before you begin installing the chimney
connector.

* A Bottom Heat Shield is required in many installations. Refer to the floor protection information
found in the Installation Section of this manual.

Attach the Legs and Heat Shield
Place the stove on its back on a soft surface such as acouple of old blankets. Tilt it carefully; it is heavy. Use
4 x 4 blocking to make it easier to tilt the stove. Protect surrounding flooring with an old blanket or sheet.
The tops of the legs are slotted. Remove each leg bolt
from the bottom of the stove and then replace it with awasher from the hardware bag. If you are attaching abottom heat shield, place a heat shield bracket on eachbolt. Place the door handle insert holder on the bolt for
the left rear or either front leg. Slide the legs onto thebolts and gently tighten each bolt. (Fig. 19) If you areattaching a bottom heat shield, screw it onto the heatshield brackets.

16

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Dutchwest

Operation
Heater Controls and Features
Air Controls
The Dutchwest Convection Heater has two air controlsthat regulate the amount of air drawn into the stove.
Generally, more air entering the stove allows the fire toburn hotter and faster, while less air decreases heat
output while prolonging the overall burn time.
The Primary Air control lever is located at the lower
front edge of the left side (looking from the front of thestove). (Fig. 20) The lever operates the two air inlet
shutters which are on the front of the stove. Opening
the inlet shutters provides air for primary combustion.

Pull Control
Lever Forward
to Open Air
Shutters

DamperSecondary
Air Inlet

Air Inlet
Shutter

ST433

Side Loading
Door

Fig. 21 Opening the primary air supply.

Primary Air
Control
Lever

Front
Loading Door
ST432

Fig. 20 The heater controls.

To open the shutters, turn the lever counterclockwise.
The shutters are all the way open when the lever points
toward the front at a ”4:30” position. (Fig. 21) To close
the shutters, turn the lever clockwise. The shutters are
fully closed when the lever points straight down. (Fig.
22)
The secondary air inlet, over the side door, admits air tothe catalytic combustor only, for high efficiency at highcombustor temperatures. Use a gloved hand or the
metal tip of the door handle to adjust this inlet. Opening
or closing this inlet will not strengthen the fire; generally
this inlet should be about one turn open for low fires,and 1¹⁄₂ to 2 turns for medium and high fires.

7001135

ST434

Fig. 22 Closing the primary air supply.

17

Dutchwest

Damper Function

Burn Only High-Quality Fuel

The Damper is operated by moving the handle on theupper left side of the stove. (Fig. 23) It has two positions: OPEN, to start the fire and load fuel, and
CLOSED, for greatest efficiency and heat. When thedamper is closed, exhaust gases pass through an
insulated catalytic burner before flowing into thechimney.

Your heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Do
not burn other fuels. Never burn pressure-treatedwood, painted or stained wood, or glossy newsprint.

Use the door insert handle to rotate the damper handle.
Turn it counterclockwise to open the damper andclockwise to close it. You will feel resistance as thedamper mechanism engages into the open (counterclockwise) position.

The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and airdried outside under cover for at least one year. If
hardwood is not available, tamarack, yellow pine, white
pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood are softwoods
that are commonly burned. They too should be properly dried. The length of the wood should be the sameas that specified for your particular stove. Avoid usingwood that has been dried more than two years. Often
gray in color, this wood burns very quickly, resulting inshort burn time and diminished stove performance. If
you must burn it, mix it in with greener wood to slow theburn.

The stove damper must be open when you start a fire,load fuel, or before you open either door for any reason.

Load Doors
A Side Loading Door allows the easiest loading ofwood logs. The Front Door opens for adding anoccasional log to the fire. Always be sure to open thestove damper before opening either door.

Successful Wood Burning
Woodburning is often said to be more of an art than ascience. You’ll easily master the art if you start byusing good, dry fuel and by understanding how thestove’s air supply system operates.

High efficiencies and low emissions are possible whenburning air-dried, seasoned woods as compared tosoftwoods or freshly cut hardwoods. Avoid burning“green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.

Store your firewood under cover to keep it dry. Even for
short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance from theheater and keep it clear of the areas around the heaterused for refueling and ash removal.

ClosedOpen
Door Insert Handle

ST435

ST436

Fig. 23 Damper operating positions.

18

7001135

Dutchwest

Use The Air Control SettingsThat Work Best For You

Primary Air

Catalyst Air

No single combination of control settings will fit every
situation. Each installation will differ depending on thequality of the fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how
long you wish the fire to burn.
Control settings also depend on your particularinstallation’s “draft," or the force that moves air from thestove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by suchthings as the height, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures inthe stove. On the other hand, too little draft can cause
backpuffing into the room and/or the “plugging” of thechimney and catalytic burner.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrollable burn or a glowing-red part of the stove or chimney
connector. A sign of inadequate draft is smoke leaking
into the room through the stove or chimney connector
joints.
When first using the stove, keep a record of the results
you achieve from different control settings. You will findthat specific control settings will give you a fixedamount of heat. It may take a week or two to determine
the amount of heat and the length of burn you should
expect from various control settings.
Notice that the probe thermometer on the stove top tells
you the temperature of the catalytic burner only; it does
not tell you how hot the firebox is. Normal range for thecatalyst is 600 to 1400˚ F (315 to 760˚C ). The catalyst
temperatures are very intense (far more intense thanany other part of the stove) but they are also very
localized.
You should put a magnetic surface thermometer on theside door. This is the only single-thickness area of thefirebox, and it’s a handy location since you’ll use theside door more than any other.
The normal range of firebox temperatures is 400 to
650˚ F (190 to 330˚ C). Temperatures below this range
can encourage creosote formation in the stovepipe andchimney; higher temperatures can cause stove parts toburn out prematurely. Always operate the stove according to firebox temperatures. Besides the air control,
you can manage the stove’s heat output and burn timeby how much wood you load at at a time.

7001135Low

1/2 turn open

Medium 1¹⁄₂ turn openHigh

1¹⁄₂ to 2 turns open

High
Med.
Closed Low
Position of primary air control
lever for different burn rates.

Number of turns the air control
is open for different burn rates.

Fig. 24 Primary and Catalyst air settings.

Notice that changes in the weather have a strong effecton chimney draft. Higher outdoor temperatures andlower air pressure both weaken draft; lower temperatures and higher air pressure encourage a stronger
draft. An exception to this is in installations with outdoor
chimneys; since these lose heat to the outdoors, ittakes longer to warm them up initally, and it takes moreheat to keep them warm, especially during very low
temperatures outdoors.
Most installations do not require a large amount of
combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not attempt to increase the firing rate of your heaterby altering the air control adjustment range outlined inthese directions.
In some newer homes that are well insulated andweather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such instances, an open window near
the stove on the windward side of the house (sideagainst which the wind is blowing) will provide the fresh
air needed.
Use the air control settings indicated in Figure 24 as astarting point to help determine the best settings foryour installation.
DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH
DOOR OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOROPEN CAN CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITIONTO OCCUR. OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGEROUS AND CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE,
INJURY, OR LOSS OF LIFE.

19

Dutchwest

How to Build and Maintain a Wood Fire
Loading WoodYour Dutchwest Convection Heater accepts wood fromboth the front and side. Front loading is useful forkindling a new fire and adding an occasional log,
however, we recommend side loading as most convenient when adding several logs at a time. Always becertain that the stove damper is open before opening
either door.
WARNING: OPERATE YOUR DUTCHWEST CONVECTION HEATER ONLY WITH THE DOORSFULLY CLOSED EXCEPT WHEN REFUELING.
THIS STOVE IS HOT WHILE IN OPERATION! KEEP
CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.

Break-in Fires
If your stove is new or has new cast iron replacement
parts, “season” the new cast iron with a few break-in
fires. Follow Steps 1-3 below. Then let the fire burnout. Do not close the damper. Maintain a small, but
not smoky, fire by adjusting the primary air control.
After the break-in fires, continue with Step 4.
The stove’s paint and cement will emit a slight odor asthese materials cure during the first few fires. You may
wish to provide extra ventilation near the stove bypartially opening a door or window when the odor ispresent.

Lighting the Fire
Step 1. Open the stove damper. Fully open the primary
air control and close the secondary (catalyst) air
control.
Step 2. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove.
Place six or eight finger-width size pieces of dry kindling on the paper. On the kindling, lay two or threelarger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2" (25-50mm) thick.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START
THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPTHA, OR
ENGINE OIL.

NOTE: An especially large, outdoor, or cold chimney
may need to be “primed," or warmed up, before it willdraw sufficiently to start a fire. If this is the case, roll up
a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of thekindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,and close the doors. This should heat the chimney
enough to initiate a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door andlight the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light themain bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing.
Repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initialattempt is unsuccessful.
Step 4. After a lively fire has been established,(approx. 30 minutes) close the stove damper.
Step 5. Close the primary air control to a medium low
setting. The fire volume will diminish immediately, but
the stove will continue to warm up. Maintain control of
the fire using the primary air control. Reduce the setting
for a smaller fire, increase the setting for a hotter, more
intense fire. Refer back to the air control settings charton pages19.
Step 6. Open the catalyst air control. Refer back to
the air control settings chart on page 19.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove. If a part of the stove or the chimney
connector glows, you are overfiring.

Reloading and Reviving the Fire
Open the stove damper and wait at least thirty seconds
for the draft to increase. Open the door slowly and add
the fuel. Split firewood will fill the firebox more completely than will unsplit wood and will thereby reduce
the frequency of reloading.
You may find that the fire intensity will decrease after
reloading, particularly if the loading door is open a longtime. Stimulate the fire by increasing the primary air
supply and leave the stove damper open. Then as soon
as the fire is reestablished, close the damper andreduce the air supply to prevent over-firing.

Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene,
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or“freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids
well away from the heater while it is in use.
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The
fire should be well-established within 10-15 minutes.
You may gradually build it up by adding a few sticks at
a time of a progressively larger size. Continue to build
the fire until a live coal bed begins to form.
20

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Dutchwest

Further suggestions...

Safe Ash Handling* If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your fuel iswell-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel (smaller
pieces first), close the door and damper, and reset the
air control within five minutes.

Ash may contain hot coals and must be treated withextreme care. Ashes should be placed outdoors in a
metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all
combustible materials, pending final disposal. If theashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, keep them in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Wood ash
may be used as a garden fertilizer.

* When refueling, avoid breaking the charcoal bed into
small pieces. Large pieces of charcoal help the firerecover quickly.
* The glass will remain cleaner if refueling is done
when the previous load of fuel has burned down to hot,glowing coals. Use a crumpled piece of dry newspaper
to wipe fly ash buildup off of the glass. Do not use
liquid cleaning agents of any type on hot glass.

Remove Ashes Frequently

CAUTION: Never use a vacuum cleaner to remove
ash from the stove; always remove and dispose of theashes properly.

Wear heavy stove gloves when removing ashes.
Check the ash compartment before reloading thestove. If the ashes are close to the top, empty the pan.
Before replacing the ash pan, clear away any ash thathas spilled over the sides and back of the ash pan.
Empty the ash drawer regularly - typically every one tothree days. The frequency will vary depending on how
hot you run your stove: the hotter the fire, the morewood you burn, and the faster ash will accumulate.

ST438

ST437

Fig. 25 Hot ashes can be dangerous and must be stored
outdoors on a noncombustible surface in a metal container
with a tight-fitting lid.

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Dutchwest

Maintenance
Keep Your Stove Looking New And
Working Its Best

Small
Locking Nut

Care of the Cast Iron Surface

StrikerScrew

An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Dutchwest Convection Heater
looking new.
If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to coolcompletely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted.
Remove non-painted components such as air controls
or cover them with masking tape. Touch up the stovewith high temperature stove paint available from yourlocal dealer. Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats
are better than one heavy one.

Cleaning the Glass

Door

Pawl

Large
Locking Nut

Set Screw
ST439

Fig. 26 Door latch adjustment.

You will find that most of the carbon deposits on theglass will burn off regularly during hot fires. You canwipe fly ash from the glass when hot using a crumpled
piece of dry newspaper. Never use liquid cleaning
agents on hot glass. If you wish to clean the glass
more thoroughly, follow this procedure:

Remove the oldgasket by pulling
gently, but firmly.

• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Use a glass cleaner especially made for thispurpose.
• Dry the glass completely.

Adjust the Door Latch
The door latches must close tightly to ensure a goodseal between the each door and the stove plates. With
time and use, the door latches will require periodic
adjustment. Follow this procedure: (Fig. 26)
1. Loosen the small locking nut with an open end
wrench.
2. Use the allen wrench (included with the stove) toturn the striker screw clockwise one quarter-turn andclose the door to test the engagement. The door
latch should engage tightly when closed. Makefurther adjustments in small increments.
3. When the striker screw is properly adjusted, tighten
the small locking nut against the pawl without
allowing the striker screw to turn.

ST440

Fig. 27 Door gasket.

Test And Repair the Door Gaskets
Air leaks can be caused by low spots in the door
gaskets. To locate such low spots, close each door ona slip of paper and attempt to pull the paper free. If thepaper slips out without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug
enough at that spot.
If the seal cannot be improved by adjusting the door
latch, try shimming the gasket. Pack a small quantity of
cement or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel
beneath the gasket to lift the main gasket and thereby
improve its contact with the door frame.
If shimming does not improve the seal, replace thegasket following these steps:
1. Remove the original gasket by grasping an end andpulling firmly.
2. Wearing safety goggles, use a wire brush or the tipof a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gasket.

227001135

Dutchwest

3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newlycleaned groove.
4. Lay the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are acouple inches from the end before you cut it.
5. Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper
as described above. Adjust the gasket in any areas
where an inadequate seal is evident.
All rope-type gasketing used in the Dutchwest Convection Heater is made of fiberglass. The gasketing is
7/16" diameter for front and side doors and the ashdoor and 3/8" for the top plate. 1/4” gasketing is usedbehind the glass.

Adjusting Bolt

Front of
Stove
Lock Nut
Damper Rod
Anchor Bolt

Repair Missing Cement in Seams
The cement in the stove seams may deteriorate overtime and fall out in places. Just as with the stove
doors, it is necessary to keep the seam seals in goodcondition. Spot-fix with furnace cement (available fromyour local dealer) any areas where the cement seal isvisibly deteriorated. Allow 24 hours for the new
cement to dry after "washing down" seams.

Avoid Damaging the Glass Door Panel
Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking
the glass with a log. Never operate your stove if it has
damaged or broken glass. If you need to replace theglass, use only replacement glass provided by your local
Dutchwest dealer.

Damper Adjustment
With time, you may need to adjust the damper linkage toensure that the damper plate seals tightly when closed.
Test the damper when the stove is cold. When turned
into the closed position, the damper should be feel “snug”
but not too tight. It will become a little tighter as the stoveheats up. Use a 7/16” socket wrench with socket extension to adjust the linkage:
1. In an alternating pattern, first loosen and then remove
the four bolts that secure the top plate to the sides ofthe stove.
2. Open the damper.
3. Loosen the adjusting bolt’s lock nut. (Fig. 28)
4. Loosen the anchor bolt’s lock nut, located on theunderside of the damper.
5. Loosen the anchor bolt a turn or two.
6. Tighten the adjusting bolt.
7. Test the damper. Make further adjustments if necessary.
8. When final adjustment has been made, tighten theadjusting bolt lock nut, the anchor bolt, and the anchor
bolt lock nut.

ST441

Fig. 28 Damper adjustment.

Primary Air Control Adjustment
A simple spring-loaded tab maintains tension on the
primary air control lever. The air control should beloose enough for you to easily set its position by hand,but also snug enough to remain in that position until
you change it.
Over time, the air control may tighten or loosen. To
adjust the tension on the control, let the stove cool toroom temperature. Open the side-loading door and lookin toward the inner side of the front panel of the stove.
(Fig. 29) Locate the lower hex head bolt (A) on the
primary air manifold, just inside the door. Remove thebolt with a open end or box end wrench to gain accessto the adjustment screw (B) inside the manifold. Insert a
Phillips screwdriver into that hole and turn the screw
clockwise to increase tension, counterclockwise to
decrease tension. Make adjustments in small increments and test the operation. Replace the hex headbolt when you are done.
Note that the mechanism may tighten slightly as thestove heats up. Your adjustment should leave the aircontrol snug, but not overly tight.

Air Manifold

Air
Control
B
A

ST442

Fig. 29 Primary air control adjustment.

700113523

Dutchwest

Cleaning the Chimney System
The chimney system is composed of the chimney andthe pipe that connects the stove to the chimney.
Inspect the chimney and chimney connector at least
twice monthly, and clean if necessary.
When you first begin using the stove, check daily forcreosote — a substance that can look like either thicktar or black, crisp flakes. Experience will show how
often you need to clean to be safe. The frequency may
even vary during the year. In the colder months when
the hottest fires producing the least creosote areburned, you may need to clean only every couple ofmonths. During the warmer months when creosote ismore likely to result from cooler-burning fires, weekly
cleaning may be necessary.
At the very least, inspect the chimney connector andchimney at least once every two months during theheating season to determine if a buildup of creosote orsoot has occurred. If a significant layer of creosote has
accumulated (1/8" [3 mm] or more), or if soot has
accumulated, either should be removed to reduce therisk of a chimney fire. Failure to keep the chimney andconnector system clean can result in a serious chimney
fire.
The conditions for a chimney fire develop as follows:
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and otherorganic vapors which combine with expelled moisture
to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in
the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire.
As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the fluelining. Creosote is flammable and, when ignited,
makes an extremely hot fire within the flue system
which can damage the chimney and overheat adjacentcombustible material.
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form,
remember to provide adequate air for combustion andto strive for small, intense fires rather than large,
smoldering ones.
You can never be too safe. Contact your local fire
authority for information on what to do in the event of achimney fire, and have a clearly understood plan on
how to handle one.

Inspect Regularly, Clean As Required
Inspect the chimney and chimney connector twice
monthly and clean if necessary. Let the stove coolcompletely before you inspect the chimney. Use aflashlight and mirror to sight up the flue through thechimney clean-out door or chimney connector inspection tee. If no inspection access is available, disconnect the pipe from the stove.

24

Clean the chimney using a specially designed chimney
cleaning brush, the same size and shape as the flueliner, attached to flexible fiberglass rods designed forthis purpose. Run the brush up and down the liner sothat any deposits fall to the bottom of the chimney
where they can be removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting thesections, taking them outside, and removing any
deposits with a stiff wire brush. You can use a chimney
brush of correct size to clean chimney connector pipe.
Reinstall the connector sections after cleaning, being
sure to secure the individual sections with three sheet
metal screws per section.
If you are unable to inspect and/or clean the chimneysystem yourself, contact your local Dutchwest dealer orhire a qualified chimney sweep in your area to do thejob.

Maintenance Schedule
THE STOVE:DAILY:• Ashes should be removed before they reach the topof the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once aday.
• Keep the area around the stove clear of any combustible materials such as wood, furniture or clothing.
TWO MONTHS:• Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.
Gasketing becomes compressed after a period oftime. Adjust handle tightness if necessary.
• Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if
necessary.

Annual Spring Cleaning• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.
• Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with amoisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to
keep the interior of the stove dry.
• Inspect and clean the refractory package andcatalyst.
• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or
pipe heat shields if your stove is equipped with them.
Clean surfaces are better heat reflectors than dirty
surfaces.
• Touch up the black paint.

7001135

Dutchwest

The Chimney Connector
TWO WEEKS:• Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if
necessary.
TWO MONTHS:• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay
particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney
connector, and the elbows. Clean the system ifnecessary.

Yearly Spring Cleaning• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it
outdoors for inspection and cleaning. Replace weaksections of connector.
• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration.
Repairs to a masonry chimney should be made by aprofessional mason. Replace damaged sections ofprefabricated chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer
or a chimney sweep can help determine whenreplacement is necessary.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney.

Care Of The Catalytic Combustor
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, whichneeds regular inspection and periodic replacement for
proper operation. It is against the law in the UnitedStates to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual, or if
the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
Under normal operating conditions, the catalytic combustor should remain active for two to six years (depending on the amount of wood burned). However, it isimportant to monitor the combustor periodically toensure that it is functioning properly, as well as todetermine when it needs to be replaced. A nonfunctioning combustor will result in a loss of heating
efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions.
The combustor should be visually inspected “in place”
for fly ash accumulation and physical damage threetimes per year. Actual removal of the combustor is notrecommended unless a more detailed inspection is
warranted because of diminished performance as
outlined below.
The refractory package housing the catalytic combustor
should be inspected annually for a build-up of fly ash
and cleaned if necessary. This may be done during
examination of the catalytic combustor.

7001135

When To Suspect A Combustor Problem
There are two ways to evaluate the performance ofyour stove’s combustor.
The first is to monitor the temperatures on the probe
thermometer. A properly-functioning combustor should
operate in the range of 800-12000F. (430-650°C.).
Combustor temperatures consistently less than 8000F.
(430°C.) merit a closer examination of the combustor.
The second performance test is to observe the amountof smoke leaving the chimney — both when the combustor has achieved "light-off" and when it has not.
Follow this simple two-step procedure:• With a fire in the stove and the combustor properly
activated by the closing of the stove damper to routesmoke through it as described in the Operation Section, go outside and observe the smoke leaving thechimney.

• Then, open the stove damper and once again
observe the smoke leaving the chimney.
Significantly more smoke should be observed after thesecond step when the stove damper is open andexhaust is not routed through the combustor. Be
careful not to confuse smoke with steam from wet
wood. Unlike smoke, steam disappears very quickly inair.
If either of these tests indicates a problem, consider
other possible factors as well.

Assess Your Present Operating Conditions
In Spring or Fall, draft strength is less than in the
middle of winter, and a related change in stove performance may result. Small hot fires are a good solution
to sluggish performance under these conditions.
Burning “green” (insufficiently seasoned) wood will
result in poorer performance than when burning properly seasoned fuel. Was your fuel supply good and dry
to start with, or has it changed? You may have to run
your stove hotter (more air) to achieve good performance if you are burning green or wet wood. Also, anychanges in operating routine should be considered at
this time as a possible reason for changed performance.
Once you have ruled out any other possible causes fora decline in performance, you may proceed with aninspection of the catalyst.

25

Dutchwest

Remove and Inspect the Combustor• Wear safety glasses, a dust mask, and gloves.
• Remove the four bolts that secure the stove top
plate. There are two each on both the left and theright side, just under the top plate overhang. With
the bolts removed, lift the top.

Remove these bolts

ST443

Fig. 30 Remove four bolts securing stove top plate.

The combustor is located beneath the removablerefractory package.

• Carefully remove the refractory package. It isextremely delicate; handle it as little as possible.

Stove
Top

Catalytic
BurnerST444

Fig. 31 Remove refractory package with care.

• For a visual inspection for blockage that can be
performed without removing the combustor, have an
assistant shine a bright flashlight beam up through the
combustor from inside the stove’s firebox.
• If combustor removal is necessary for cleaning or
closer inspection, lift it gently out of its chamber. You
may have to work it back and forth carefully to remove
it. Check the combustor and the bottom of the refractory chamber for a build-up of fly ash, and remove any
ash by gently blowing air through the combustor. Do
not brush the surface, as this could damage theelement.
• Inspect the combustor, referring to the information in
the "Catalytic Combustor Appendix" on Page 27 for
information on what to look for. Although small hairline
cracks will not affect performance, the combustor
should be essentially intact. If the combustor is broken
in pieces or has sections missing, it should be replaced. Call your local Dutchwest dealer for a replacement combustor, item #CB56. Consult the
warranty section at the back of this manual for further
information on catalytic combustor replacement.
• If the combustor is in good condition and clean, reinstall it. Be sure first to carefully wrap a new Interam
gasket (an extra was provided with your stove) around
its perimeter before replacement. Insert the gasketed
combustor gently back into position, and replace therefractory package.
• Before replacing the stove top, check the damper. If
the gasket is intact, but the damper isn't locking tightly,
adjustment should be made. Also check the gasket
that seals the top plate.
• Gasket should be replaced only if damaged or
missing. The top plate uses a 3/8" gasket and thedamper is sealed with a 3/8" gasket. The procedure forremoving the old gasket and installing the new is thesame as that described for door gaskets on Page 19.
• Replace the stove top, and tighten the four top platebolts that secure it. Be sure that the top plate seatsproperly before tightening, and tighten the bolts
alternately as you would tighten the bolts that secure a
car tire.

Watch for Better Results
Finish up by cleaning the chimney connector. Then,
use the stove in your typical manner for two weeks andnote the stove’s performance, taking special note of
the performance tests described above.
If a problem persists, contact your Dutchwest dealer for
further advice about your particular situation.

26

7001135

Dutchwest

Catalytic Combustor
In any chemical reaction, including the combustion
process, there are certain conditions which must be
met before the reaction can take place. For example, areaction may require a certain temperature, or a certain
concentration of the reactants (the combustion gases
and oxygen), or a certain amount of time. Catalysts,
though not changed themselves during the reaction,
have the ability to act at a molecular level to changethese requirements. In the secondary combustion
chamber of the Dutchwest Convection Heaters, thecatalyst reduces the temperature at which secondary
combustion can start from the 1000 - 1200° F. (540 650° C) range to the 500 - 600° F. (260 - 315° C) range,
increasing efficiency, and reducing creosote andemissions.
Though it is advantageous, the catalytic reaction does
have some limitations of its own. Primary among theseis that the reactants (the gases) come into close
physical contact with the catalyst itself.
To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element
in your Dutchwest Convection Heater is composed of aceramic base in the shape of a honeycomb. On eachof the honeycomb’s many surfaces a coating of thecatalyst (usually a noble metal such as platinum or
palladium) is applied. The large surface area exposedin this configuration ensures that the combustion gases
have the greatest opportunity to come in contact withthe catalyst.
Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several
ways. First you may notice an increase in fuel consumption. Second, there will be a visible increase in
the rate at which creosote builds up in your chimney
connector system. You may also notice a heavy
discharge of smoke from the chimney. There are anumber of catalytic problems which can cause loss ofactivity:

Blockage
While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, italso increases the resistance to flow of the combustion
gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides
more places for creosote and fly ash to deposit. It is
important to follow the operating instructions in order tominimize these deposits, and to periodically inspect
your catalyst for signs of blockage.

7001135

Masking and Poisoning
While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combustion process, it is possible for certain elements,
such as lead and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on
the surface of the honeycomb. Though the catalyst is
still there, it is covered, or masked, by the contaminant,and cannot function. To avoid this situation, it isimportant not to burn anything in your Dutchwest
Convection Heater that is a source of these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or treated wood, coal,household trash, colored papers, metal foils, or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may also containharmful elements. The safest approach is to burn only
untreated, natural wood.

Flame Impingement
The catalytic element is not designed for exposure todirect flame. If you continually overfire your Dutchwest
Convection Heater, the chemistry of the catalyst
coating may be altered, inhibiting the combustion
process.
Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also
occur, causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within
the recommended guidelines of the Operation section.

Mechanical Damage
If the element is mishandled, damage may occur.
Always treat the element carefully. Remember thecatalyst is made of a ceramic material; treat it as you
would fine china. Hairline cracks will not affect theperformance of the catalyst, as long as the steel sleeveholds the element in the proper position.

Peeling
Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalyticelement is frequently subjected to excessive temperatures. Follow the operating instructions carefully to
avoid this type of damage.
Every Dutchwest product is equipped with either aCorning “Long-Life”® or a Technical Glass Products“Honeycomb”®. The products are equivalent. If for any
reason you must ship your catalytic element, remember
its fragile nature. Place the element in a plastic bag,and package it with a generous amount of shock
absorbing material.

27

Dutchwest

Draft Management
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes thechimney, the operator, the fuel, and the home. The otherparts of the system will affect how well the stove works.
When there is a good match between all the parts, thesystem works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The greater the temperature difference, thestronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas rises out of thechimney, it generates suction that draws air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire when the stove’s air
inlets are fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire,
supported only by air entering the stove through the air
inlets, indicates a good draft. The inlets are passive; they
regulate how much air can enter the stove, but they don’t
force air into it.
The efficiency of a modern woodburning appliance, (inwhich the amount of air available for combustion isregulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaustgases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics ofyour chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior orexterior, matched or mismatched to the stove outlet, determine how quickly it will warm up and how well it willsustain the optimum temperatures necessary to maintainstrong draft and efficient combustion. Here follows adescription of various flue system characteristics and therelated effects on stove performance.

Masonry Chimney
Although masonry is the traditional material used forchimney construction, it can have distinct performance
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combustion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’ that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of time.
The large mass, however, may take a long time tobecome hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The larger
the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take towarm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust gases
enough to diminish draft strength. This problem is worse
if the chimney is located outside the home or if thechimney flue has a cross-sectional volume much larger
than the stove outlet.

Steel Chimney
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a layerof insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps
the smoke warm and protects the surrounding structurefrom the high flue temperatures. Because the insulationis less dense than masonry, the inner steel liner warms
up more quickly than a masonry chimney; this makes thesteel chimney support a good draft more quickly thanmasonry does. Steel chimneys are not as attractive as
masonry, but they are very durable and generally
outperform masonry.
28

Indoor/ Outdoor Location
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This location uses the house as insulation for the flue and allows
some radiant heat release from the flue into the home.
Since an interior chimney doesn't continuously lose its
heat to the outdoors, less heat from the stove is required
to get it warm and keep it warm.

Flue Sizing
The flue size for a controlled-combustion applianceshould be based on the cross-sectional volume of thestove flue outlet. In this case, more is definitely notbetter. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if a stovewith a six-inch flue collar (28 square inch area) is vented
into a 10" x 10" flue, the gases will expand to over threetimes their original volume. As gases cool with expansion, draft strength decreases. If an oversized flue isalso outside the house, the heat it absorbs will be
conducted to the outdoor air and the flue will remain
relatively cool.
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for thestove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm up
and the stove performance will likely be disappointing.
The best solution to an oversize flue problem is theinstallation of an insulated steel chimney liner of thesame diameter as the appliance flue outlet. The liner
keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a stronger
draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice - although
the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to its original
volume, the air around the liner will require time and heat
energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install aflue liner in any oversize or masonry flue.

Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the exhaustas it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove
through a completely straight chimney. Use this layout if
at all possible as it will promote optimum stove performance and simplify maintenance.
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate
the elbow about midway between the stove top and thechimney thimble. This configuration lets the smoke speed
up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the room forheat transfer, and allows long-term flexibility for installinga different appliance without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wallstove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft andcreosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for longer
runs.

7001135

Dutchwest
Single VentingYour stove requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect thestove to a flue used by any other appliance. Chimney
draft is a natural form of energy and follows the path ofleast resistance. If the stove is vented to a flue that also
serves an open fireplace or another appliance, the draft
will also pull air in through those avenues. The additional
air flow will lower flue temperatures, reduce draft
strength and promote creosote development; overall
stove performance will suffer. The effect is similar to thatof a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose. In someextreme instances, the other appliance can even impose
a negative draft and result in a dangerous draft reversal.

Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well withpoor fuel. If available, always use hardwood that has
been air-dried ("seasoned") 12-18 months. Softwoodburns more rapidly than hardwood and has a high pitch
content conducive to creosote production. Decayedwood of any type has little heat value and should not beused.
All unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture
content. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate
moisture before the wood can burn. This significantly
reduces not only the amount of energy available to warm
your home, but also the intensity of the fire and temperature of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion and coolflue temperatures promote creosote formation and weakdraft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its appearance
and weight or use a commercially available moisture meter foran exact measurement. Unseasoned wood will be a third
heavier than dry wood. Also, look for cracks ("checking") in theends of the log that result from contraction as the wood dries.
The longer and wider the cracks are, the dryer the wood is.
Purchase your fuel from a reputable dealer.

Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove
operation, weak draft, or both. It is a tar that results
when unburned gases condense inside the flue systemat temperatures below 290˚ F. Creosote is volatile andcan generate a chimney fire. All of the installation
characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also
promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you can
minimize creosote accumulation with an effective
chimney design and the use of operational techniquesthat encourage good draft and complete combustion.
Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it wheneveraccumulation is exceeds 1/4".

Backpuffing
Backpuffing is a condition that results when the draft is
too weak to pull flue gases out of the chimney system as

7001135

fast as the fire generates them. Volatile gases build up
within the firebox until reaching a density and temperature
at which they ignite. With this ignition, you may hear amuffled popping sound and see a bit of smoke forced out of
the stove.
This condition is most likely to occur in the Spring or Fallwhen moderate outdoor temperatures and low intensity
fires produce weak draft. If your stove back-puffs, open
up the damper to let the smoke rise to the flue more
quickly. Also, open the air inlets to induce a livelier fireand speed airflow through the stove. Avoid large loads offirewood at one time. You should always see lively,
dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire isinefficient and will promote draft problems.

Draft TestingAn easy way to determine whether your chimney draft isstrong enough is to close the stove damper, wait a few
minutes to let the airflow stabilize, and then test whether
you can vary the strength of the fire by swinging the aircontrol open and closed. Results here are not instant;
you may need to wait a few minutes for a change in the
air control setting to have an effect on the fire. If there is
no change, the draft is not yet strong enough to let you
close the damper. You will need to open it for a while
longer and manage the fire with the air inlet until thedraft strengthens. Keep a record of your operating habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s function.
You’ll be rewarded with safe and efficient performance.

Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a sufficient supply of air tothe stove. The chimney can’t pull in more air than isavailable to it. Sluggish draft can be caused by a housethat is tight enough to prevent the ready flow of air to thestove, or by competition between the stove and otherappliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e.,
exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom
fans, etc. If the chimney draws well when all such
equipment is turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves), you need to be attentive intiming the use of the other appliances. If you need to
crack a nearby window or door to enable the chimney topull well, you should install an outside-air intake to bring
combustion air into the room.

Conclusion
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art includes
technique; and since installations, homes, and fuel vary,
the stove operator must also vary technique, (mostly
timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over time, you will
become familiar with the features of your particularinstallation; you will be able to identify cause and effectin a variety of seasonal circumstances, and adapt youroperating habits to changing conditions.

29Dutchwest

58
60

24
23

29
55

34

54

32
6

2

61
5

7
56

21

62

55

8

54
4

22

9
31

30

10
53
50

36

16
41

20
48

59

57
3

13

17

1

12
11

43

33

38
45

42
35

18

40

39

47

14
13
19
37

1135

Vermont Castings, Majestic Products reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,
without notice.

Dutchwest Convection Heater
Models 2460, 2461, 2462

30

7001135

Dutchwest

Dutchwest Convection Heater
Models 2460, 2461, 2462 (continued)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
47.
48.
50.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.

Item/Description
BottomOuter Back
Inner Bottom
Inner Back (After 9/97 No Outside Air Slot)(Before9/97 Slot for Outside Air
Inner Top
Inner Top Ass’y (Inner Top, Web, Gasket, Tabs & Bolts)
Inner Top Ass’y (Inner Top, Web, All Hardware, Baffle, Damper,
All Gaskets)
Inner Top Web
Inner Top Channel Cap
Air Distributor
BaffleRight Side (After 7/97 no outside air)Left Side
Side Door
Load Door Handle (2)Door Pawl (3)Primary Air Manifold
Front
Gasket for Front Door
Ashdoor
Grate
Retainer Tab for Web (2)Fan PlateDamperDamper Adjuster
Damper Tab (2)Damper Crank
Damper Operating Rod
Grate Back
Top
HearthFlue Collar
Leg
Damper Handle StubAsh Door Handle
Ash PanGasket for Glass
Glass
Manifold Cap (2)Holder for Door Handle Insert
Primary Air Control
Damper Tab for Primary Control
Spring for Primary Control
Front Door
Inner Bottom Screw, 1/4-20 x 3³⁄₄”
Andiron (2)Side Wear Plate
Interam Gasket
Catalytic Combustor
Refractory
Combustor Air Inlet
Probe Thermometer
Brass Bar
Refractory Package1 (as of 7/97)
Inner Top1
Inner Top Insert/Baffle Combination as of 1/972

2460
7000958
7001144
70011367001130
700117370011120000003--

2461
7000978700123170011167001230
7001174
70011190000004
70011712462
7000979
7001234
7001149
7001233
700084(See Item #61)
0000016--

70011107000961
7000952
700095370012297001120700112150042735004025
7001137
7001139
70009107001141
7001118
1601488
7000037
7000954
7000950
1601488
7000951
7001160
7001166
7000960
70011427000969
700001650042675004271
7000G791203591
7001146
7001163
1600600
7001143
16014881201846
7001140
1201394
70011177001198
1203540700B566
16025157001128
7000948
7001179----

70011107000974
7000952
700095370012297001120700112150042735004025
70011227001124
70009107001126
7001118
1601488
7000037
7000954
7000950
1601488
7000951
7001160
7001166
7000972
7001127
7000969
700001650042675004271
7000G69
1203591
7001132
7001164
1600600
7001129
16014881201846
7001125
1201394
70011177001198
1203540700B566
16025157001128
7000948
7001180----

7000110 (to 7/97)
7000987
7000952-7001232
7001150
700115150042735004025
7001152
7001154
70009107001156
7001148
1601488
7000037
7000954
7000950
1601488
7000951
7001160
7001178
7000985
70011571304280
700001650042675004271
7000G89
1203591
7001161
7001165
1600600
7001158
16014881201846
7001155
1201394
70011177001199
1203545700B566
1602515 (to 7/97)
7001128
7000948
700118116025147001226
7001225

1

On Extra-Large units built after August 1997, Refractory differs from Small & Large units.
On Extra-Large units built after August 1997, Inner Top and Insert differ from pre-August 1997 units.
70011352

31

Warranty
Limited Three Year Warranty
The Vermont Castings Majestic Products Company warrantsthat this Dutchwest Convection Heater will be free of defects inmaterial and workmanship for a period of three years from thedate you receive it, except that the glass door panel andgasketing shall be warranted for one year as described below.
There is a separate warranty for the catalytic combustor.
The Vermont Castings Majestic Products Company will
repair or replace, at its option, any part found to be defective
upon inspection by a Vermont Castings Majestic Products
Authorized Dealer. The customer must return the defective
part or the stove, with shipping prepaid, to the Authorized
Dealer or pay for any Authorized Dealer in-home travel fees orservice charges for in-home repair work. It is the dealer's option
whether the repair work will be done in the customer's home orin the dealer's shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is found tobe the fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at nocharge to the customer for parts and/or labor.
Any Dutchwest Convection Heater or part thereof that is
repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will bewarranted for a period not to exceed the remaining term of theoriginal limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.

Limited One Year Warranty
The glass panel and gasketing of the Dutchwest Convection
Heater are warranted to be free of defects in material andworkmanship for a period of one year from the date you receive
it. Any of these items found to be defective will be repaired or
replaced at no charge, upon the return of said part to a Vermont
Castings Majestic Products Authorized Dealer with postage
prepaid.

Limited Catalyst Warranty
The catalyst will be warranted for a six year period as follows:
If the original catalyst or a replacement catalyst proves defective or ceases to maintain 70% of its particulate emission
reduction activity (as measured by an approved testing procedure) within 24 months from the date the Dutchwest Convection
Heater is received, the catalyst itself will be replaced free.
From 25 - 72 months a pro-rated credit will be allowed
against a replacement catalyst and the cost of labor necessary
for its installation at the time of replacement.
There is a third year coverage at 100% for combustor failure
due to thermal degradation of the substrate (crumbling of
ceramic material). The customer must pay for any in-hometravel fees, service charges, or transportation costs for returning the Dutchwest Convection Heater to the Authorized Dealer.

Amount of Time
Since Purchase

Credit Towards
Replacement Cost

0 - 24 months
100%
25 - 36 months
50 %37 - 48 months
30%
49 - 60 months
20%
61 - 72 months
10%
Any replacement catalyst will be warranted under the termsof the catalyst warranty for the remaining term of the original
warranty. The purchaser must provide the following informationin order to receive a replacement catalyst under the terms ofthis limited warranty:

1. Name, address and telephone number.
2. Proof of original purchase date.
3. Date of failure of catalyst.
4. Any relevant information or circumstances regarding
determination of failure.
5. In addition, the owner must return the failed catalyst.

Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original
purchase is required.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the Dutchwest
Convection Heater as described in the Owner's Guide, nor doesit cover a Dutchwest Convection Heater that has been modified
unless authorized by a Vermont Castings Majestic Products
representative in writing.
3. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired bysomeone other than a Vermont Castings Majestic Products
Authorized Dealer.
4. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by thiswarranty but is subject to claim against the common carrier.
Contact the Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased yourDutchwest Convection Heater. (Do not operate the Convection
Heater as this may negate the ability to process the claim withthe carrier.)
5. Claims are not valid where the installation does notconform to local building and fire codes or, in their absence, tothe recommendations in the Owner’s Guide.
6. The Vermont Castings Majestic Products Company shallhave no obligation to enhance or update any unit once manufactured.
IN NO EVENT SHALL THE VERMONT CASTINGS MAJESTIC PRODUCTS COMPANY BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL
AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS, ARE LIMITED TO THE
DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL OTHER ORAL OR WRITTENWARRANTIES.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations ofincidential and consequential damages or limitations on how
long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations may not
apply to you. This warranty gives you specific rights and you
may have other rights which vary from state to state.

How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer
should contact a Vermont Castings Majestic Products Authorized Dealer or The Vermont Castings Majestic ProductsCompany if the purchase was direct with the following information:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the purchaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Model and Serial No. from the back of the stove.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g.,
installation, mode of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim process will then begin. The Vermont
Castings Majestic Products Company reserves the right towithhold final approval of a warranty claim pending a visualinspection of the defect by authorized representatives.

Vermont Castings, Majestic Products
410 Admiral Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 2N6 • 905-670-7777
www.majesticproducts.com • www.vermontcastings.com© Vermont Castings, Majestic Products