Raw material exclusively for cosmetic manufacturing

NATURAL
MACROMOLECULE

Eco-friendliness, secureness, and safety
Eco-Friendly Raw Material

The ﬁrst anti-inﬂammatory
botanical shield polymer in the world !

● Chemical-free cultivation

Pholitect● Clearly indicates the place of origin (Japan)● Traceability● Allows for reuse of non-standard products● Unaffected by weather and allows for consistent supply● Partnership with a food company contributes to the(PHOLIOTA MICROSPORA POLYSACCHARIDES)

achievement of a recycling-oriented society

Commitment tomaterialprocurement®

Domestically produced
raw materials

Eﬀective use of resources(sustainability)

Based on Nameko produced
without agricultural chemicals in Yamagata. Traceability has been established forthe raw material to ensure
secureness and safety.

The eco-friendly raw material
is eﬀectively used: Small
N a m e ko t h a t a re u s u a l l y
discarded because of their
non-standard size. The raw
material can be stably supplied because it is farmed
indoors in a well-controlled
e nvi ro n m e nt t hat is n ot
aﬀected by weather.

Protects the skin from drying
and external stresswith its botanical power.

Ethical consumption
Nameko has been consumed
in Japan for many years. In
cooperation with local foodproduct companies, we willsupp or t the creation of arecycling-based society andthe future-oriented production of cosmetics.

An eco-friendly
functional basematerial
Recommended formulation ratio: 0.2-3%
Safety evaluation: Human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT): Negative
Product number
PME-131
PME-121

Product name

INCI name/中文名称

Other ingredients

Pholitect BG

PHOLIOTA MICROSPORA

Water, BG (botanical-derived)

Pholitect PE

POLYSACCHARIDES /Water, phenoxyethanol＊Package
1kg＊PHOLIOTA MICROSPORA POLYSACCHARIDES can be replaced with POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE.
INCI name: POLYAMINO SUGAR CONDENSATE; 中文名称: 多氨基酸多糖縮合物
The Country of origin: Japan

Anti-inﬂammatory
Barrier function

The place of Origin: Yamagata Pref.

＊The content in this document is prepared based on documents and experimental data available at the time of preparation. However, the content
does not comprise a guarantee. ＊Please note in advance that the content description in the document is subject to change. All intellectual property
belongs to KOKEN CO., LTD., such as copyrights and design rights for the given data and related documents. All rights reserved. For safe use of thematerials, refer to the MSDS of each of our products prior to use. For written and verbal expressions about products for general consumers, follow
the related laws and regulations in each country.

Contact

Irritation reduction
MakeupProtection from UV rays/blue light

KOKEN CO., LTD.
1-4-14 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112-0004, Japan
Telephone: +81-3-3868-0560

Moisturizing

Facsimile: +81-3-3816-3570

https://koken-cosme.com/

Pholitect is a registered trade name of KOKEN CO., LTD.

Ⓒ2018-2021 KOKEN CO, LTD. C-1-3003-1-02-00

Improved feel/latheringPhytochemical ingredients
protect the skin fromdrying and external stress
Pholitect is a new, plant-based cosmetic raw material

from mucus, a botanical shield component secreted frommushrooms (nameko), that protects from dryness andexternal stress. It is extracted using a proprietary method.

Domestically produced plant-derived
polysaccharide focusing
on the living body's defense system
It has been reported that natural polysaccharides haveanti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects and help regulate immunity.
Phytochemicals, which plants create to protect themselves,
are considered to be important not only for the body s internal environment,
but also for nutritional support for the skin, and to improve the skin s condition.
Mushrooms have been used for ages as a phytochemical raw material
that includes functions such as an anti-inflammatory effect,
immune cell activation, and an anti-allergic effect.

Although it is a water-soluble molecule, it is characterized

Structural features of Pholitectnor sticky. Suitable for natural cosmetic formulas since it

Pholitect is the anionic saccharides that consists of sugar and protein.
It is unique saccharides with a structure similar to mucin,
an animal mucosal protective ingredient.
Its amino-acid composition is better balanced than animal mucin.
Pholitect is a macromolecule with a molecular weight ofapproximately 4,600,000 with a moisture retaining capacity
about six times greater than hyaluronic acids.

by its thick, rich texture that is oily but neither slipperygives a springiness and denseness to cleansing agents.

Air pollutants, pollen, and temperature difference
Cleansing face wash

250

Stimuli contained in cosmetics
Water retention amount (mL/g)

UV rays, blue light

Botanical shied polymer,a 100% natural
eco-friendly functional base material

Drying/inﬂammation
Irritant substance
UV rays/blue light

Thickening/coloring
Improved feel
Lather quality
improvement

Safe and Secure

Produced domestically/
chemical-free
Efficient useof resources
Traceability

A moisture retaining capacity
about six times greater

100365036
Pholitect

Sodium hyaluronate
Based on In-house data

Molecular weightAnalysis of amino acids

Anionic saccharides
with a molecular weightof about 4,600,000

400300200
1000Collagen

Polysaccharides from
Tremella fuciformis

Nondenaturing
proteoglycan

Xanthan gum

Macromolecular
hyaluronic acid

Animal mucin

Pholitect

Makeup eﬀects

1500500

Shield function

200

Environmental
considerations

100

Total amino acids composition (%)

Functionality

Characteristics
of basematerial

n=3219■Pro■Hyp■Arg■His■Lys■Hyl■Phe■Leu■Ile■Met9080706050403020

Analysis of sugars■Val■Chs■Ala■Gly■Glu■Ser■Thr■Asp(color reaction of neutral sugar using orcinoland sulfuric acid)100

Pholitect Animal mucin

Pholitect has a better amino acidcomposition balance than animal mucin.

Pholitect

Animal mucin

Contains neutral sugar just asanimal mucin

Pholitect is a unique polysaccharides similar to mucin,a living body's mucosal protection component.
Based on In-house data0203

Pholitect's four shielding eﬀects

Anti-inflammatory effect

Irritant substance(Capsular formation andreduction of irritation)

Moisture

Suppression of the generation of NO (μg/mL)

UV rays/Blue lightMoisturePrevents Drying
The ability to reduce water evaporation and retain moistureSample solutions with a concentration of 0.1% solid content were
dropped on filter paper. Five minutes later, their weight was measured. The moisture retaining rate was calculated based onchanges in weight. (n=3)

Moisture content in the horny layer(relative value)

90

8580

Water

Pholitect

Sodiumhyaluronate

Pholitect showed a moisturizing eﬀect about 2.5 times
greater than hyaluronic acid.
Based on In-house data04＊＊

10500.1%
GK21.41.2
10.8＊0.6

＊＊0.4

00.1%

0.02%0.001% 0.005%（0.2%（1%contained）contained）
Licorice
Pholitect32.521.5
10.5
0.05%
Sodiumhyaluronate＊＊0.2

Control

GK2

0.02%

0.001% 0.005%（0.2%（1%contained）contained）
Pholitect
Licorice

1.4

TNF-α

1.2
10.8
0.6

＊＊

0.4
0.2
00.1%
Control

5% Pholitect contained

GK2

0.02%

0.001% 0.005%（0.2%（1%contained）contained）
Pholitect
Licorice

1.6

COX-2

1.4
1.2
10.8

＊0.6

0.8

00.2
00.1%
Control

Pholitect was mixed in O/W cream. It was applied tothe inside of subjects' forearms. After two hours, themoisture content in the horny layer was measured.

3.0

2.7

2.5

2.1

2.0
1.5
1.0

1.0

Protection from external stimuli

0.005%
0.0125%（1% contained）（2.5% contained）
Control formula0.001% 0.005%（0.2%（1%contained）contained）
Pholitect
Licorice

1.8

NF-κB

1.6
1.4
1.2
10.8
0.6

＊

0.4
0.2
00.1%
Control

GK2

0.02%

0.001% 0.005%（0.2%（1%contained）contained）
Pholitect
Licorice**：p ＜ 0.01

Formula containing Pholitect

Pholitect showed greater suppression of water evaporation and moisture retainment than sodium hyaluronate.

The formula containing Pholitect presented a moisturizing
eﬀect that two times or more greater than the control formula.

Based on In-house data

＊With cooperation of: General Cosmetics Course, Tokyo College of Medico-pharmaco Technology
Based on In-house data***：p ＜ 0.001

Based on In-house data

UV rays/blue light(alleviation of the stimulation of activators)(anti-photoaging measures)① Samples were applied to artiﬁcial skin after being mixed withSDS for cultivation.
② Cells were incubated after samples were washed away.
③ The rate of living cells was measured using MTT assay. (n=3)

8060

20.1mg/mL melanin
0.3% Pholitect(corresponding to a concentration of 60%)
0.3% Marin mucin

1.5

Sodium hyaluronate 1%

10.5

4002802000.50.0

0.02%

10Pholitect suppressed drying after washing. Pholitect isexpected to increase moisturizing ability after washingand keep skin smooth and moisturized.

CreamGK2*：p ＜ 0.05
5Lapsed time after washing (min.)

＊

＊

0.4

Control

Moisture content in the horny layer(relative value)

Moisture content in the horny layer(relative value)

3.5Pholitect＊＊＊

IL-6100Sample aqueous solutions were applied to subjects'forearms. After five minutes, the moisture content in thehorny layer was determined using a Corneometer. The
relative values were calculated with the moisture content in the horny layer before application as 1 (n=3).

0.025%
0.05%（5% contained）（10% contained）

＊＊＊

15

Pholitect showed an anti-inﬂammatory eﬀect equal to dipotassium glyc yrrhizinate (GK2) andChinese licorice ex tract evenwhen the amount contained was
1/100 and 1/2 respectively.

10.9

＊

Based on In-house data

1.1

The skin moisturizing eﬀect

020Control＊With cooperation of: General Cosmetics Course, Tokyo College of Medico-pharmaco Technology
Based on In-house data

Toner

25

1.6

Absorbance

Moisture retention ratio
after ﬁve minutes (%)

9530

The moisturizing eﬀect following washing① The moisture content in the horny layer of the back of thehand was determined using a Corneometer.
② The back of the hand was washed for 20 seconds using latherfrom one push of the amino-acid face wash.
③ Rinse with lukewarm water for ten seconds and wipe gently.
④The moisture content in the horny layer of the back of thehand was determined using a Corneometer (n=4).

The eﬀect suppressing the generation of inﬂammatory cytokine
The expression of mRNA (COX-2-GAPDH)The eﬀect of suppressing
the generation of NO

The expression of mRNA (NF-κB-GAPDH)

Excessiveinﬂammation

Macrophage-like cells (RAW264.7 cells) were treated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) to induce an inﬂammatory reaction. The suppressionof the generation of nitrogen monoxide (NO) and inﬂammatory cytokines (IL-6, COX-2, TNF-α, and NF-κB) was examined in samples.

The expression of mRNA (IL-6-GAPDH)

External stimuli

The expression of mRNA (TNF-α-GAPDH)

Drying

The rate of living cells (％)

Functionality

NATURAL MACROMOLECULE

0%0.005%
0.015%0.025%（1% contained）（3% contained）（5% contained）
Pholitect0.015%Sodium
hyaluronate

Pholitect showed an eﬀect lessening stimuli in a concentration-dependent manner. Pholitect is expected to protect the skin from external stimuli when used at a concentration of 1% or greater.

Based on In-house data

380

UV rays(UVB 290 nm-UVA 400 nm)

480580680

Blue light (380-500 nm)

Uniquely, Pholitect has the ability to absorb a broad rangeof spectra (UV rays, blue light, and near-infrared light). It is
expected to protect the skin from light like melanin (apseudo-melanin shield eﬀect). Pholitect will moisturize theskin, protect it from external stimuli, and protect it fromthe sun at the same time.

Based on In-house data

05

NATURAL MACROMOLECULECharacteristics of base material
The eﬀect of improving feel

Viscosity and thickening action
The viscosity of aqueous solutions containing 0.5% solid content
was determined.
4000

3654

Characteristics
Non-sticky
Thickfrom feeling
Seems to form a ﬁlm like an oil. Easy to penetrate the skinin useControl

3000
2500

1% Pholitect
contained

0%0.0025%Distilled
0.5%
water

0.005%

0.015%

0.025%

0.05%

0.5%

1%

3%

5%

10%

100%

Stock solution
Concentrationof solid content

10% contained

0.5%
Refrigerated

1521

1500

4% contained

0.05%
60℃

Refrigerated

0.02%60℃

Refrigerated

60℃

1000

SodiumXanthanhyaluronate
gum(macromolecule)

Serum
Control

Viscosity 5.1

mpa・s

containing
Pholitect

CreamControl

66

71

Sclerotium
Algin
Cellulosegum(macromolecule) gum

containing
PholitectApplied on clear ﬁle holder

Cleanser
Control

Control

containing
Pholitect

5% Pholitect
contained

The eﬀect of improving lather quality(face wash)
Lather was observed after it was formed using a lathering net.
3% Pholitect
contained

Control

If a product contains 1% Pholitect, it is expected to facilitate the cream's spreading, penetration, and transparency and its smooth, bouncy and moist texture.
＊With cooperation of: General Cosmetics Course,Tokyo College of Medico-pharmaco Technology
Based on In-house data

Makeup effects
A BB cream containing 7% Pholitect was prepared and applied topieces of polyurethane with artiﬁcially produced dark spots. Then,
redness and brightness were determined (n=3).

Control

Skin lightness (relative value)

1 hour later

Micrographs

Pholitect is expected to enable a bouncy lather andBased on In-house data
maintain the lather longer.

Salt and physical properties
Salt was added to an aqueous solution of Pholitect (an aqueoussolution containing 20% Pholitect), and viscosity was measured.
350

Raw material(ﬁnal concentration)

Immediately
after mixing

2 weeks later

4 weeks later

0.2% sodium hyaluronate

◯

◯

◯

10％ glycerin

◯

◯

◯

0.1% algin

◯

◯

◯

0.1％ xanthan gum

◯

◯

◯

5％ ethanol

◯

◯

◯

30% butylene glycol

◯

◯

◯

5％ pentylene glycol

◯

◯

◯

30% propanediol◯◯◯
Based on In-house data

NaCl

300

MgCl 2250
200
150
100
50
00%

0.1%

0.2%

0.5%

Concentration of salt

1%1.5%

Viscosity tended to decrease when salt was added.

Based on In-house data

Hydrogen ion concentration and physical properties

1

Reduced redness

Color tone

An aqueous solution of Pholitect (an aqueous solutioncontaining 10% Pholitect) was prepared in a way tomake the hydrogen ion concentration a pH of 3, 6, or
9, and color tone was measured.

An aqueous solution of Pholitect (an aqueous solution
containing 20% Pholitect) was prepared in a way tomake the hydrogen ion concentration a pH of 3, 6, or
9, and viscosity was measured.

Viscosity

400
Control formulacontaining PholitectAppearance

pH3

pH6pH91.02

1.01

Brightened skin tone
10.99

3% Pholitect contained

Based on In-house data

(The ﬁnal concentration of Pholitect: 0.05％; equivalent to a concentration of 10％)0.9

3% Pholitect
contained

Thermal stability is high. The color tone and viscosity will
not be changed by heating.

Compatibility
Aqueous solutions containing Pholitect and each cosmetic raw
material were mixed at the ratio of 1 to 1. Observed appearance
immediately after mixing, 2 weeks and 4 weeks after storage atroom temperature.

8.3
59.0
101.8
22.0
28.0
mpa・smpa・s
mpa・s
mpa・s
mpa・s

Pholitect has higher viscosity than sodium hyaluronate
and other macromolecules. It has a unique spinnability
that cannot be found in other macromolecules. Pholitectis expected to provide a thickening action when used inserum, cream, or face wash.
Based on In-house data

Control

Applied on skin surface

The concentration for observable coloring was 1% ormore for clear solutions and 3% for white cream basematerials.
Based on In-house data

Viscosity (mPa･s)

Pholitect

Viscosity (mPa･s)

1720

2.5 hours later

Control

Amount ofPholitect
contained

2 weeks
later

500

06

1% Pholitect
containedConcentrationof solid content2147

2000

Skin redness (relative value)

Viscosity (mPa･s)

3500

Coloring and temperature stability

300

200

100Control formulacontaining Pholitect

When Pholitect was used in a BB cream, skin redness
was concealed better, and skin tone was brightened.
Pholitect enables a natural color control.
＊With cooperation of: Cosmetics Development Course,Tokyo College of Biotechnology
Based on In-house data

0

With a pH of 9, redness tended to become slightly moreintense. If the concentration was 10% or less, there was
no great diﬀerence in the appearance regardless of theBased on In-house datahydrogen ion concentration.

pH3pH6pH9Viscosity reached its peak around a neutral pH. Temperature did not aﬀect viscosity. (Viscosity will rise when refrigerated if the product contains butylene glycol, a preservative agent.)
Based on In-house data
07