TABLE OF CONTENTSSECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINESECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHES
Names of Parts .............................................................. 2
Standard Accessories .................................................... 3
Accessory storage .......................................................... 3
Extension Table ............................................................. 4
Free-arm sewing ............................................................ 4

Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 19
Overcasting .................................................................. 19
Knit Stitch ..................................................................... 20
Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch) ............................ 20
Straight Stretch Stitch .................................................. 21
Zigzag Stretch Stitch .................................................... 21
Button Sewing .............................................................. 22
4-Step Buttonhole ........................................................ 23
To adjust buttonhole stitch density .................................. 23
Corded Buttonhole ....................................................... 24
Zipper Application ........................................................ 25
Blind Hemming ............................................................. 28

SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Power Supply ....................................... 5
Controlling the Sewing Speed ....................................... 5
Reverse Stitch Lever ..................................................... 6
Foot Pressure Dial ......................................................... 6
Dropping the Feed Dog ................................................. 6
Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot ........................ 7
Changing the Presser Foot ............................................ 7
Removing and Attaching the Foot Holder ..................... 7
Changing Needles ......................................................... 8
Needle and Thread Chart ............................................... 8
Winding the Bobbin ........................................................ 9
Setting the spool ............................................................ 9
Removing the bobbin ..................................................... 9
Winding the bobbin ...................................................... 10
Inserting the bobbin ..................................................... 11
Threading the Machine ................................................ 12
Drawing up the Bobbin Thread .................................... 13
Selecting the Stitch Pattern ......................................... 14
Pattern selector dial ..................................................... 14
Stitch Length Dial ......................................................... 14
Adjusting stretch stitch balance ................................... 15
Stitch Width Dial .......................................................... 15
Variable needle position .............................................. 15
Balancing Needle Thread Tension .............................. 16

SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHES
Decorative Satin Stitches............................................. 29
Decorative Stretch Stitches ......................................... 29
Smocking ..................................................................... 30
Pin Tucking .................................................................. 31
Shell Tucking ............................................................... 31
Fagoting ....................................................................... 32
Patchwork .................................................................... 32

SECTION 6. CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .................... 33
Replacing the Bobbin Holder ....................................... 34
Replacing the Light Bulb .............................................. 34
Troubleshooting ............................................................ 35

SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing .................................................. 17
Changing the sewing direction .................................... 17
Finishing sewing .......................................................... 17
Seam guides on the needle plate ................................ 18
Turning a square corner .............................................. 181

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Names of Parts
y

t

r e

w

u

q Bobbin winder stopper
w Bobbin winder spindlee Hole for additional spool pin
r Spool holdert Spool pin
y Bobbin winder thread guideu Thread take-up lever
i Foot pressure dialo Face plate!0 Thread cutter!1 Needle plate!2 Extension table (Accessory storage)!3 Hook cover plate!4 Hook cover plate release button!5 Thread tension dial
!6 Reverse stitch lever!7 Stitch length dial
!8 Pattern selector dial
!9 Stitch width dial
@0 Presser foot@1 Needle@2 Needle clamp screw@3 Foot holder@4 Setscrew@5 Carrying handle@6 Handwheel@7 Power switch@8 Machine socket@9 Drop feed lever#0 Free-arm#1 Foot lifter

q
!9

i
!8
o
!7

!0

!6

!1
!4
!2

!5

!3

@2
@3
@1
@0
@4

@5

@6

#1

#0
@9
@7
@8

2

Standard Accessoriesw

q

q Zipper foot E
w Blind hemming foot G
e Buttonhole foot Br Sliding buttonhole foot J
t Needlesy Bobbinsu Screwdriveri Lint brusho Seam ripper (buttonhole opener)!0 Spool holder (large)!1 Spool holder (small)!2 Additional spool pin!3 Felt cushion

r

e

y

t

i

u

!0

o

!2

!1

!3

Accessory storage
The standard accessories can be stored in the accessory
storage box under the extension table.
Draw out the storage box from the table as shown.
q Accessory storage boxq3Extension Table
To detach:
Pull the extension table to the left.

To attach:
Insert the pin into the hole and push the extension table tosnap it in place.
q Pin
w HolewqFree-arm sewing
Free-arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves, waistbands,
pant legs or any other tubular garments.
It is also useful for darning socks or mending knees or
elbows.

4

SECTION 2. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Power Supplyqz Turn the power switch off.
x Insert the machine plug into the machine socket.
c Insert the power supply plug into the wall outlet.
v Turn the power switch on.
q Power switch
w Machine plug
e Machine socketr Power supply plugt Wall outlet

r

t

e

w

NOTE:
Before connecting to the power supply, make sure thevoltage shown on the machine conforms to yourelectrical power.

WARNING:
While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing
area, and do not touch any moving parts such as thethread take-up lever, handwheel or needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug from thepower supply:- when leaving the machine unattended.
- when attaching or removing parts.
- when cleaning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise themachine will run intermittently.

Controlling the Sewing Speed
Foot control
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you depress the foot control, the faster themachine runs.

Operating Instructions:
The symbol "O" of a switch indicates the "off" position of a switch.
For an appliance with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other):To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install theproper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
The foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with the sewing machine Model 521 (USA market only).

5

Reverse Stitch Lever
Push the reverse stitch lever down to sew in reverse.
The machine will sew in reverse while the lever ispushed.

Foot Pressure Dial
Turn the foot pressure dial to adjust the foot pressure.
The foot pressure dial should be set at “3” for regularsewing.
Reduce the pressure to “2” for appliqué, cutwork, draw
work and basting.
Set the setting mark at “1” when sewing chiffon, lace,organdy and other fine fabrics.
q Setting markq

Dropping the Feed Dog
The drop feed lever is located underneath the free-arm
bed on the backside of the machine.

q

To drop the feed dog, push the lever in the direction of
the arrow, as illustrated.
To raise the feed dog, push the lever in the direction of
the arrow, as illustrated, and turn the handwheel towardyou.
The feed dog must be up for regular sewing.
q Drop feed leverw Raised positione Lowered position

w

e

6

Raising and Lowering the Presser FootThe presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot.

e

You can raise the foot about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than
the normal up position for easy removal of the presser
foot, or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot.
q Lowered position
w Normal up positione Extra up position

e
w

w
q

Changing the Presser FootTo remove:
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning thehandwheel counterclockwise. Raise the presser foot,and press the lever on the back of the foot holder.
q Leverq
CAUTION:
Turn OFF the power switch before changing the foot.
Always use the proper foot for the selected pattern.
The wrong foot can cause the needle to break.
Do not push the lever down to prevent it from being
broken.
To attach:Place the desired presser foot, so that the pin on the footlies just under the groove on the foot holder. Lower thepresser foot lifter to lock the foot in place.
w Groove
e Pin

e

w

Removing and Attaching the Foot Holderq

WARNING:w

Turn OFF the power switch before detaching or
attaching the foot holder.
To remove:
Remove the setscrew by turning it counterclockwise witha screwdriver and remove the foot holder.
To attach:Match the hole in the foot holder with the threaded holein the presser bar. Fit the setscrew into the hole. Tighten
the screw by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.
q Setscrew
w Foot holder
e Holer Threaded holere7Changing Needles

CAUTION:w q

q

Always make sure to turn the power switch off anddisconnect the machine from power supply beforechanging the needle.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel and lower thepresser foot.
Turn off the power switch.

ez Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
q Needle clamp screw
x Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with theflat side of the needle to the rear.
When inserting the needle into the needle clamp,
push it up against the stopper pin and tighten theneedle clamp screw firmly.
w Stopper pin
e Flat side
To check needle straightness, place the flat side of theneedle onto something flat (a needle plate, glass etc.)
The gap between the needle and the flat surface should
be consistent.
Never use a blunt needle.
r Gap

r

Needle and Thread Chart
WEIGHTFABRICTYPE of NEEDLE

NEEDLE SIZE

Very Light

Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy
Net, Tulle

Universal
Ball Point

9 (65)
9 (65)

Light

Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine,
Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen,
Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau deSoie, Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed
Crepe, Qiana

Blue Tipped Needle
Universal

11 (75)
11 (75)12 (80)Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, and Tricot

Blue Tipped Needle
Ball Point

11 (75)
11 (75)

Leather, Suede

Wedge Point
Leather Needle

11 (75)

Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen,
Poplin, Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz,
Gabardine, Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

Universal

14 (90)

Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch
Velour, Stretch Terry, Sweater Knits

Ball Point

14 (90)

Leather, Vinyl, Suede

Wedge Point
Leather Needle

14 (90)Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking

Denim Needle

16 (100)

Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur,
Drapery Fabrics

Universal

16 (100)

Leather, Suede

Wedge Point
Leather Needle

16 (100)
18 (110)

Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics

Universal

16 (100)

Topstitching for Special Finishes

Topstitching Needle

14 (90)MediumHeavy

Very Heavy

8

Winding the Bobbin(A)

Setting the spool
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread
coming off the spool as illustrated.
A: Press the large spool holder firmly against the spoolof thread.
q Large spool holderq(B)

B: For a small spool, use the small spool holder.
w Small spool holderw
Additional spool pin
The additional spool pin is for bobbin winding without
unthreading the machine.
Insert the additional spool pin into the hole.
Place the felt and a spool on the pin.
e Additional spool pin
r Spool pin feltt Spool pin hole

e

r

t

Removing the bobbinz Push the hook cover plate release button to the rightand remove the cover plate.
q Hook cover plate release button
w Hook cover plateqw
x Lift out the bobbin.
e Bobbine9w

Winding the bobbin

e

z

q

z Pull out the handwheel to disengage the clutch.
q Handwheelwx

x Draw the thread from the spool. Guide the thread
around the bobbin winder thread guide.
w Bobbin winder thread guidec Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside
to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle with thefree end of the thread coming out at the top.
e Bobbin winder spindlecev Push the bobbin to the right.

v

NOTE:
Do not move the bobbin winder spindle while themachine is running.

bb With the free end of the thread held in your hand,depress the foot control. Stop the machine when thebobbin has been wound a few layers, and cut thethread close to the bobbin.

nn Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is
fully wound, it will stop automatically.
Return the bobbin winder to its original position by
moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread as
illustrated.

mm Push in the handwheel to engage the clutch.

10

Inserting the bobbinqzz Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the threadrunning off as illustrated.
q Threadx

x Guide the thread into the front notch on the front sideof the bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left,
sliding it between the tension spring blades.
w Front notche Tension spring bladewec Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread
slips into the side notch.
r Side notchcrv Pull out about 4” (10 cm) of thread. Attach the hookcover plate. Check the threading by referring to thechart shown on the hook cover plate.
t Thready Hook cover plate

v

t

y

11

c

Threading the Machinez

To set the needle thread:
Raise the thread take-up lever to the higest position byturning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.

x

v
b

q
z

z Draw the thread from the spool and pass it under the
thread guide. Then draw it down along the rightchannel.
q Thread guidew Right channelwx

x Draw the thread up around the bottom of the thread
guide plate.
Pull the thread up along the left channele Thread guide plater Left channelrec Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the
thread take-up lever and down into the take-up levereye.
t Thread take-up leverctv Draw the thread down along the left channel and slip
the thread behind the needle bar thread guide fromthe left.
y Needle bar thread guidevbb Pass the thread through the needle eye from thefront.

y12

Drawing up the Bobbin Threadz Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread
lightly with your left hand.
q Needle threadzqx Turn the handwheel slowly toward you one complete
turn. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle
thread as illustrated.
q Needle thread
w Bobbin thread

x

w

q

c Pull 4” (10 cm) of both threads back and under thepresser foot.

c
w

q

13

Selecting the Stitch Pattern
Raise the needle to its highest position.

e
Pattern selector dialw
Turn the pattern selector dial to set the symbol of thedesired stitch pattern at the setting mark.
q Pattern selector dialw Setting mark
CAUTION:
Do not turn the pattern selector dial while the needle is in
the fabric, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

q

To select the stretch stitch patterns, set the stitch length
dial at S.S.
e Stretch stitch patterns

Stitch Length Dialr
Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length
number at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch
The “” mark shows the adjustment range whensewing the buttonhole.
r Setting markt Stitch length dialt

14

Adjusting stretch stitch balance
If the stretch stitch patterns are uneven when you sew
on a particular fabric, correct them by turning the stitch
length dial.

“–”

If the patterns are drawn out, correct them by setting thedial to the “–” side.

“+”

If the patterns are compressed, correct them by setting
the dial to the “+” side.

Stitch Width Dialq
Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitch width
number at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the wider the stitch
q Stitch width dialw Setting markw

CAUTION:
Do not turn the stitch width dial while the needle is in the
fabric, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Variable needle position
The needle drop position of the straight stitches can be
moved between the center (5) and left (0) with the stitch
width dial.

15

Balancing Needle Thread Tension
The thread tension should be adjusted depending on thesewing materials, layers of fabric and sewing method.
To adjust the thread tension, turn the tension dial.
q Tension dial

q

w

t

Balanced tension:
The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between twolayers of fabric, as illustrated.

re

For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does notshow on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and theneedle thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottomside) of the fabric.
w Needle thread (Top thread)e Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)r Right side (Top side) of fabrict Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabricw

Needle thread tension is too tight:
The bobbin thread (bottom thread) will appear on theright side (top side) of the fabric.
Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the dial to alower number.

Needle thread tension is too loose:
The needle thread (top thread) will form loops on thewrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.
Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the dial to ahigher number.

16

SECTION 3. BASIC SEWINGqwr

Straight Stitch SewingeMachine setting:q Stitch pattern: A
w Stitch width:
0 or 5e Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
r Thread tension: 2 – 6
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot AtStarting to sew
Raise the presser foot and place the fabric under thefoot.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward
the back. Depress the foot control.
NOTES:
Draw the threads to the left when sewing with the
buttonhole foot.
To fasten the beginning of the seam, first sew several
stitches in reverse then sew forward.
Changing the sewing direction
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you tobring the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing
direction as desired. Lower the presser foot and continue
sewing in the new direction.

Finishing sewing
Press the reverse stitch lever and sew several stitches inreverse at the end of the seam.

Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing
the threads to the back.

q

Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter.
The threads are cut the proper length for starting thenext seam.
q Thread cutter

17

Seam guides on the needle plate
The seam guides on the needle plate help you to measureseam allowance.
The numbers indicate the distance between the center
needle position and the seam guide.
q Seam guidesq

Number15

20

4/8 5/8 6/8

Spacing (cm)1.5

2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9

Spacing (inch)(5/8) (3/4) 1/2 5/8 3/4

Turning a square corner
The cornering guide helps you maintain a 5/8” (1.6 cm)
seam allowance when sewing a corner.
When the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering
guide as illustrated, stop stitching and lower the needle
into the fabric by turning the handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric so the edge ofthe fabric will align with the 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and start stitching in the new
direction.
w Cornering guidew

18

SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHESw

qr

Basic ZigzageMachine settingq Stitch pattern: C
w Stitch width:
1–5
e Stitch length: 0.5 – 3
r Thread tension: 2 – 5
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting,sewing on buttons etc.
Adjust the stitch length to suit your sewing needs.
NOTE:
Use a stabilizer for stretch fabrics such as tricot andknits to prevent puckering.

q

r

w

OvercastingeMachine settingq Stitch pattern: C
w Stitch width:5
e Stitch length: 1 – 2r Thread tension: 3 – 7
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

The zigzag stitch is used on the seam allowance to prevent
fabric from fraying at raw edges.

19Knit Stitch

q

w

r

e
Machine settingq Stitch pattern: G
w Stitch width:5
e Stitch length: S.S.
r Thread tension: 3 – 7
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot AtThis stitch is ideal for 1/4” (0.6 cm) seams on knits or on
medium to heavy weight woven fabrics where you want anarrow seam. It is also great for sewing spandex swim
wear. Place the fabric to leave a 5/8" (1.6 cm) allowance.
Trim the extra allowance after sewing.

q

w

r

Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch)eMachine settingq Stitch pattern: D
w Stitch width:
3–5
e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1.5
r Thread tension: 3 – 6
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot AtThis stitch is used to finish a raw edge on synthetics andother fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place the fabric to leave a 5/8" (1.6 cm) allowance.
Trim the extra allowance after sewing.
It is also used for mending tears.

20

q

r

w

Straight Stretch StitcheMachine settingq Stitch pattern: A
w Stitch width:
0 or 5e Stitch length: S.S.
r Thread tension: 2 – 5
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

The pattern is sewn with two stitches forward and one
stitch backward, forming a seam that does not rip easily.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armholeseams.
Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks
for extra strength.
Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabricmoves back and forth.

qr

Zigzag Stretch StitchweMachine settingq Stitch pattern: C
w Stitch width:
2–5
e Stitch length: S.S.
r Thread tension: 2 – 5
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use azigzag stitch.
This stitch is used as a decorative topstitch as well.

21

q

Button Sewingw
er

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: C
w Stitch width:
Adjust as necessarye Stitch length: Anyr Thread tension: 3 – 7
t Presser foot: Buttonhole foot B
y Feed dog:
LoweredtyUnthread the needle. Adjust the stitch width to match itwith the span of the holes in the button. Turn the
handwheel to check if the needle enters into each hole inthe button.
Lower the foot to hold the button in place.
The holes in the button should align with the slot of thefoot.

A pin can be placed on the foot to form a shank.
Make sure to check if the needle enters into both holes
in the button.
q Pin
Re-thread the needle and sew about 10 stitches and cut
the needle and bobbin threads at the beginning.

q
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. Cut theneedle and bobbin threads leaving 8” (20 cm) tails.
Bring the needle thread between the button and fabricthrough the holes in the button.
Pull the needle thread to pick bobbin thread up to theright side of the fabric.
Wind the threads to from a shank and tie them together.
w Needle threade Bobbin thread

w

e

NOTE:
Raise the feed dog after sewing.

22

q

4-Step ButtonholeweMachine settingq Stitch pattern:w Stitch width:
4–5
e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1
r Thread tension: 1 – 5
t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole J or
Buttonhole foot Btrz Set the pattern selector dial at “ ”.
Carefully mark buttonhole length on fabric.
Place the fabric under the foot with the buttonhole
marking running toward you.
Draw both of needle and bobbin thread to the left.
Move the slider toward you so that the top mark w
on the slider meets the start mark q.
q Start markw Top marke Needle threadr Bobbin thread

z
q

e

w

x

r

c

v

NOTE:
The scale on the slider is engraved in centimeters.

b

x Sew forward until you reach the front marking of yourbuttonhole. Stop sewing at a left stitch.
c Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the pattern selector dial at “ ”. Sew 5 stitches,then stop sewing at a right stitch.
v Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the pattern selector dial at “ ”. Sew until theneedle reach the back marking of the buttonhole.

tnb Raise the needle to its highest position.
Set the pattern selector dial at “ ”. Sew 5 stitches,then stop sewing. Set the stitch length dial to "0" andthe pattern selector dial at straight sewing.
Sew a few locking stitches.

yun Raise the needle and presser foot. Remove the fabricfrom the machine and cut the sewing thread. Insert a
pin inside the bartack.
Then cut the opening with a seam ripper.
Take care not to cut the stitches.
t Needle thready Bobbin threadi

To adjust buttonhole stitch density:
Set the stitch length dial between “buttonhole stitch density.
u Denser buttonhole
i Coarser buttonhole

23” to adjust theCorded Buttonhole

w

q

r

e
Machine settingq Stitch pattern:w Stitch width:
4–5
e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1
r Thread tension: 1 – 5
t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole J or
Buttonhole foot Btz With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on
the spur at the back of the foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the foot, clearing thefront end.
Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of thefoot to hold them tight.
q Spurw Forks

z

q

w

x

x Draw both of needle and bobbin thread to the left.
Move the slider toward you so that the top mark r
on the slider meets the start mark e.
e Start markr Top markt Needle thready Bobbin threadert

Lower the needle into the fabric at the starting point
and lower the foot.
Depress the foot control gently and sew the
buttonhole over the cord.
The sewing sequence is the same as the 4-stepbuttonhole.

ycc Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it and cut
the excess tails.
To cut the buttonhole opening, refer to the
instructions on page 23.

24

Zipper Applicationw

qeMachine settingq Stitch pattern: A
w Stitch width:5
e Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
r Thread tension: 3 – 6
t Presser foot: Zipper foot Etr

Attaching the zipper foot
A: To sew the left side of the zipper, attach zipper footwith the right side pin.

q

w

(A)

(B)
o

B: To sew the right side of zipper, attach the zipper footwith the left side pin.
q Groovew Pin

Fabric preparationuz Add 3/8” (1 cm) to the zipper size. This is the overall
opening size.
q Right side of the fabricw 3/8” (1 cm)
e Opening sizer Zipper sizet Slidery Zipper teethu Zipper tapei Wrong side of the fabrico End of the opening

z
y

i
e r

w
q

t

x Place the right (top) sides of the fabric together. Sew
a bottom seam 5/8" (2 cm) from the right edge to thezipper bottom stop position. Sew a few stitches inreverse to lock.
Increase the stitch length to “4”, set needle threadtension to “1”, and baste the entire length of thefabric.
!0 5/8” (2 cm)!1 Basting!2 Reverse stitch!3 End of the opening!4 Bottom seam

x
!4
!2
!3
!1

!0
25

To sewqzz Attach zipper foot with the right side pin.
Fold back the upper layer seam allowance. Fold backthe lower layer seam allowance to leave a 1/8"
(0.4 cm) margin of fabric.
q Lower layer
w End of the openinge Zipper teeth
r 1/8” (0.4 cm) margint Upper layer
y Opening sizeu Folded edgei Basting

e

w

r
y
t

u

i

x Place zipper teeth next to margin edge and baste thezipper tape to the lower fabric layer.
Align zipper foot with margin edge. Return threadtension and stitch length to original settings.
Sew a seam the entire length of zipper tape.

x

e

t

c Stop the machine 2” (5 cm) before reaching theslider, with needle in the fabric and raise the foot,then unzip a few inches to clear a path for stitching.
o Slider!0 2” (5 cm)

c

o

!0

v Remove fabric and close zipper. Take the upper
fabric layer and lay it flat over the zipper.
Baste the zipper tape to the upper fabric layer.
!1 Basting!2 Zipper tape

v

o
!1

!2
26

b Raise and release the foot, and re-attach it with theleft side pin.
Starting just below zipper bottom stop, sew acrossfabric to about 3/8" (1 cm) distance from thebasting line.
Turn fabric 90 degrees and sew a seam the entire
length of the zipper tape. Before reaching the slider,stop the machine with needle in fabric and raise thefoot. Use seam ripper to open a few inches of basting
stitch.
!3 Unstitch basting!4 3/8" (1 cm)

b

!4
!3

n Unzip a few inches to clear a path for stitching.
At end of seam, sew a few stitches in reverse to lock.
Once both sides of zipper are sewn, use the seamripper to open the basting stitch.

n

27

q

Blind Hemmingwre
Machine settingq Stitch pattern: E or F
w Stitch width:
2–3
e Stitch length: 2 – 3r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot Gtzz On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge
should be overcast first.
Fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated for fine or
medium fabrics.
Fold a hem with the wrong side up forming a 1/8”
(0.5 cm) allowance.
q Wrong side of the fabricw 1/8” (0.5 cm)
e Heavy weight fabricr Fine and medium weight fabric

w

w
q

q

e

r

x Place the fabric so that the needle just pierces thefolded edge when the needle comes over the extreme
left side.
Lower the presser foot.

xc Turn the screw to align the guide on the foot with thefolded edge so that the needle just pierces the fold.
If the needle pierces too far left, move the guideslightly to the left.
If the needle misses the fold, move the guide slightly
to the right.
Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge along theguide.
t Screwy Guideu Folded edge

c
t

y
u

v Open and press the fabric after sewing is finished.
i Right side of the fabric

v
i

NOTE:
If the needle drops too far left, the stitches will beapparent on the right side of the fabric.

28

SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHES
Decorative Satin Stitchw

q

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: J
w Stitch width:
3–5
e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1
r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A or Buttonhole foot Bert

Determine the appropriate stitch density by test sewing.
For a delicate appearance on fabric such as chiffon, usea single layer with a tear-away backing, if necessary.
Reduce the needle thread tension slightly to achieve thebetter result.

Decorative Stretch Stitchesqw

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: A – J
w Stitch width:
3–5
e Stitch length: S.S.
r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A

e

r

t

Decorative stretch patterns are used for adding acreative and personalized touch to items.
Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabricmoves back and forth.

29

qSmockingwer

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: D
w Stitch width:
3–5
e Stitch length: S.S.
r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

Step 1:
Choose a soft and lightweight fabric such as batiste,gingham or challis. Cut the fabric three times wider thanthe project width.
Increase the stitch length to “4” and loosen threadtension to “1”. Sew rows of straight stitches 3/8" (1 cm)
apart across the area to be smocked.
q 3/8” (1 cm)q

Step 2:
Knot the threads along one end. From the other end, pull
the bobbin threads to distribute gathers evenly andsecure the threads.
Return the thread tension to the original setting.

Sew rows of the smocking stitch between the gathering
stitches.
Remove the gathering stitches after finished.

30

q

Pin TuckingweMachine settingq Stitch pattern: A
w Stitch width:
0 or 5e Stitch length: 1.5 – 3
r Thread tension:2 – 6
t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot Grt

Fold a fabric wrong side together and Lower the needle
into the fabric 0.1 – 0.2 cm inside the folded edge.
Lower the foot and turn the screw to align the guide on
the foot with the folded edge.
Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge along theguide.
Open the fabric and iron press the tucks.
q Screw
w Guidee Folded edge

q
w
e

q

w

Shell TuckingeMachine settingq Stitch pattern: G
w Stitch width:5
e Stitch length: 2 – 3r Thread tension:6 – 8
t Presser foot: Buttonhole foot Brt

Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example).
Fold and stitch on the bias.
When the needle swings to the right, allow the needle tojust clear the folded edge of the fabric.
After stitching, open the fabric and iron press the tacks
flat to one side.
NOTE:
Increase the needle thread tension to form prominent
tucks.

31

Fagoting

q

w

r

e

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: H
w Stitch width:
3–5
e Stitch length: 1 – 3r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an
open work appearance, and add design interest.
Fold under each fabric edge 1/2" (1.3 cm) and press.
Pin the two edges to a piece of paper or tear-awaybacking 1/8" (0.3 cm) apart.
q Paper
Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so the needle catches thefolded edge on each side.
Tear away the backing after sewing is finished.

q

Patchwork

q

w

r

e

Machine settingq Stitch pattern: D
w Stitch width:5
e Stitch length: 1 – 3r Thread tension:1 – 4
t Presser foot: Zigzag foot At

Place two layers of the fabric with the right side together.
Seam along the edges with the straight stitch.
Open fabrics flat and fold each seam allowances.

q

Place the fabric under the foot so that the seam line
matches the center of the foot width.
Lower the foot and sew the pattern along the seam line.
q Right side of the fabricq

32

SECTION 6. CARE AND MAINTENANCEWARNING:
Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine before
cleaning.
NOTE:
Do not dismantle the machine in any way other thanwhat is explained in this section.
Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth andmild soap.

Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogszz Remove the presser foot and needle. Remove screw
on the needle plate with the screwdriver.
Remove the needle plate and take out the bobbin.
q Screwq
x Lift up the bobbin holder and remove it.
w Bobbin holderxwc Brush out dust and lint. Wipe the bobbin holder with asoft, dry cloth.

c

v

r

v Clean the feed dogs and hook race with the lint
brush.
e Lint brushr Feed dogseb Wipe the hook race with a soft, dry cloth.
t Hook race

b

NOTE:
You may also use a vacuum cleaner.

t33

Replacing the Bobbin Holderzz Insert the bobbin holder into the hook race.

x

x Make sure the knob of the bobbin holder fits next tothe stopper on the race.
q Knobw Stopperw
c Replace the bobbin.
Attach the needle plate, inserting the two guide pins
into the holes in the needle plate. Tighten the screw
firmly with the screwdriver.
e Guide holesr Screw

q

c

e

r
e

Replacing the Light Bulb

WARNING:
When replacing the bulb, switch off and unplug themachine.
Wait for the light bulb to cool down before touching it.
Remove the cap and screw. Remove the face plate.
q Cap
w Screw
e Face plateqew

Push and turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it.
Push and turn the bulb clockwise to replace it.
r Light bulbr34

Troubleshooting
Cause
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are notdrawn to the rear and set properly under the presser
foot when starting sewing.
6. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing isfinished.
7. The thread is too heavy or too fine for the needle.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in thebobbin holder.
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.
4. The thread is wound loosely on the bobbin.

Reference
Page 12Page 16
Page 8Page 8

1. Needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. A proper foot is not used.
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing isfinished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.

Page 8Page 8Page 8Use proper foot.

The needle threadloops.

1. The needle thread tension is too loose.
2. The needle size is not suitable for the thread.

Page 16
Page 8Skipped stitches

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or thread are not suitable for the
fabric being sewn.
4. A blue tip needle is not used for sewing stretch, veryfine fabrics and synthetics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
6. A poor quality needle is used.

Page 8Page 8

Seam puckering

1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
* Use a stabilizer for very fine fabrics.

Page 16
Page 11
Page 8Make stitch shorter

The cloth is not fed
smoothly.

1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. The stitches are too fine.
3. The feed dog was not raised after being lowered.
4. The foot pressure is not adjusted properly.

Page 33
Make stitch longer
Page 6
Page 6The machine does notwork.

1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. Thread is caught in the hook race.
3. The handwheel is pulled for bobbin winding.

Page 5
Page 33
Page 10

Patterns are distorted.

1. The stitch is not balanced.

Page 15

The buttonhole is not
sewn well.

1. The stitch density is not suitable for the fabric beingsewn.
2. Interfacing is not being used with stretch fabrics.

Page 23
Page 19

Noisy operation

1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin holder.

Page 33
Page 33

Layer slippage

1. The foot pressure is not adjusted properly.

Page 6

Condition
The needle thread
breaks.

The bobbin thread
breaks.

The needle breaks.

35

Page 17
Page 17
Page 8Page 11
Page 33
Replace the bobbin
Re-wind the bobbin.

Page 17
Page 8Page 8Page 8Page 12
Replace the needle