ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS
Issue No. 24, April 2018

CONTENTS
A new book of Trekking in Bhutan
Sikkim University first expedition

Bart Jordan Page 2~３
Dr. Jigmie Wanchuk Bhutia

Hotel Everest View, Pokhara

Tom Nakamura

Page 4~11
Page 12~20

Four teams’ notable ascents:
Rock climbing in Mt. Siguniang massif, Qionglai Mountains
Ascents in the Shuangqiaogou

Keio Alpine Club

Page 21~33

First Ascent of Mt. Dayangtianwo

Dave Anderson

Page 34~36

First ascent of Central Pillar N of Baihaizi

Hiroo Yonezawa

Page 37~39

Wang Zhemin

Page 40~41

New Route on Eagle Rock Peak

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PRESS RELEASE
Uncover the secrets of enchanting Bhutan

TREKKING IN BHUTAN
22 MULTI-DAY TREKS INCLUDING THE
JHOMOLHARI, DRUK PATH AND DAGALA TREKS
by Bart Jordans
Imagine a lost kingdom of stunning natural beauty, of soaring snow-clad peaks
and tranquil valleys, where colourful prayer flags flutter in the breeze andwelcoming mountain villages lie steeped in ancient traditions and beliefs. This is
Bhutan, the hidden gem of the Himalaya.
Offering breathtaking scenery and a rich culture, without the commercialism ofother Himalayan destinations, Bhutan is an undiscovered paradise for trekkers.
Bart Jordans' guidebook describes over 20 trekking routes throughout the
kingdom, including the classic Lunana 'Snowman' Trek, the Druk Path and the
Jhomolhari and Dagala Treks, plus other routes than venture into
seldom-explored areas of the country. There is comprehensive advice to help you
plan and prepare for your trek, and plentiful cultural information to enhance any
visit.
You will find thorough coverage of all the practicalities, with notes on trekking
seasons, outfitters, transport, accommodation and food, ethics and etiquette,
equipment and medical considerations (including safety at altitude). The guidealso offers a fascinating insight into Bhutanese mountain life. Discover thelegends of the mysterious yeti. Read about the trusty yaks and their herders.
Learn how to stay on the good side of the gods and spirits of the mountains.
Visitors to Bhutan can expect magnificent mountain scenery and unspoilt
landscapes, a vibrant culture and genuine hospitality. Trekking here is a uniqueexperience, promising memories that will last a lifetime.

Key information
TREKKING IN BHUTAN
22 multi-day treks including
the Jhomolhari, Druk Pathand Dagala treks
Published Mar 2018
By Bart Jordans£19.95320pp. Paperback Gloss
Laminated pvc Sleeve
ISBN: 9781852849191

includes classic andlesser-known routes

What's inside?
22 official treks – including the Lunana 'Snowman' Trek – plus variants
transport, equipment, etiquette and medical considerations

with detailed notes on
Bhutanese culturea fascinating insight into Bhutanese culture

need a feature? let me know

About the author
Bart Jordans has been guiding and exploring treks and trekking peaks in the
Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, European Alps and on Kilimanjaro since 1984.
Originally from the Netherlands, he lived in Bhutan for over four years and in
Vietnam for two. Bart is now a freelance trekking guide for several well-known
companies. When not in the mountains, he works in the outdoor gear business
and writes articles on the mountains of Bhutan, on which he is a noted expert.

For further information, or toreceive a review copy pleasecontact Hannah
hannah@cicerone.co.uk
01539 587985

Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL
Tel: 015395 62069
Email: info@cicerone.co.uk Web: www.cicerone.co.uk

DR. JIGMIE WANCHUK BHUTIA

Sikkim University first mountaineering expedition 2018
In its first mountaineering expedition twenty eight students from Sikkim University
successfully summited Mount Brumkhangse East on March 24.
Situated in North Sikkim the height of Mount Brumkhangse East is 5635 meters.
The expedition team was led by Dr. Jigmie Wanchuk Bhutia, Coordinator, Sikkim
University Sports Board and was accompanied by instructors from Indian Himalayan
Centre for Adventure and Eco-tourism, Chemchey in South Sikkim.
'This is the first Mountaineering expedition of Sikkim University. The students wereselected through rigorous selection process and underwent twenty four days basic
training imparted at Indian Himalayan Center for Adventure and Eco-tourism,
Chemchey, South Sikkim before embarking for the expedition' said Dr Jigmie Wanchuk
Bhutia. "With an objective to impart leadership training through involvementof students, the University believes in letting them experience risk-taking, problem
solving, resilience and self-reliance through challenging activities", he maintained.
Everester Kunzang Gyatso, along with other instructors of Indian Himalayan Centre
for Adventure and Eco-tourism accompanied the team during the expedition. Before
departing for the expedition, the team was also addressed by noted Japanese explorer
Mr. Tamotsu Nakamura. He made a power point presentation to illustrate the beauty
and magnificence of the Eastern Himalayas. He also appraised the budding
mountaineers the challenges these mountains posed and the respect and reverence it
deserved.
During the Valedictory Function which was held on 28th of March 2018 at IHCAE,
graced by the Chief Administrator Colonel (retd.) D. N. Bhutia and Administrator Mr.
U.M. Rai, Mr. Sonam Gyatso Lepcha of Second Semester, MA Tourism, Sikkim
University, was awarded the Best Trainee of the course. Medals were also awarded tothe best team of the course.
"It was an experience of a lifetime as the expedition was adventurous and taught ussurvival skills, among other things", said one of the summiteers. "This experiencetaught me that I was capable of overcoming pain. I became self-reliant and independent
in the process because in the wilderness, you don't have any gadgets or any tools, theenvironment pushes you to help yourself", echoed another.

1They also thanked Dr. Jigmie Wanchuk Bhutia, and the Vice Chancellor of Sikkim
University Professor J. P. Tamang for giving them this wonderful opportunity.

Students of Sikkim University listening to Tom Nakamura’s lecture at Gangtok

Heading for the base camp2Expedition leader Dr. Jigmie Wanchuk Bhutia

Deputy Expedition leader Dr. Namrata

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Trekking toward the base camp4

Above – Instructors during the expedition
Below – Negotiation avalanche prone zone5Limbering up before summit attempt6Inching toward the summit

7Summiteers hold aloft the Indian tri-colour

Moment of glory

8TAMOTSU (TOM) NAKAMURA

Takashi Miyahara’s First Dream – Hotel Everest View

Hotel Everest View is a spectacular property located in the Solukhumbu district of
Nepal, being nestled on a ridge amidst the grand amphitheater of the Everest range.
Everest View is where impeccable service blends with the spectacular surroundings.
Built with a vision to promote Nepal in becoming a word-class tourist destination and toserve as an important role in the economic development of the local communities, thishotel was a pioneer in introducing the hospitality business in the Everest region.
Opened in 1971, Hotel Everest View’s world class recognition has made it a destinationin its own right. It was listed on the Guinness Book of World Records (2004) as theHighest Placed Hotel in the World at 13,00ft. Mt. Everest is visible all throughout thehotel and from each of the 12 comfortable rooms. The views combined with exceptional
services make for an unforgettable stay at 3,880m.
Sonia Miyahara, Kathmandu May 20181

Hidden on a ridge overlooking the Everest range, Hotel Everest View is aremarkable establishment that blends gracefully with its spectacularsurrounding.
Situated within the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park in Nepal, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, the hotel offers a 360 degree view of the awe inspiring peaks. With a viewof Mt. Everest from every room, visitors can immerse in this mesmerizing scene inluxury. Opened in 1971,
Hotel Everest View has been listed on the Guinness Book of World Records (2004) as theHighest Placed Hotel in the world at 13000ft. Featured in numerous guide books andhaving received media coverage, the resort has become a destination in its own right.
Hotel Everest View epitomises the adventurous spirit of the Himalayas. It is a perfectplace from which to explore the nearby villages and enjoy the beautiful landscape filledwith evergreen fir trees, shrubs and rhododendron forests. Our dedicated staff will
provide you with excellent service and delicious cuisine to make your stay anunforgettable experience.

Takashi Miyahara is a Nepalese tourism entrepreneur and politician. Miyahara has
lived over 40 years in Nepal. Miyahara holds a bachelor's degree in Chemical andMechanical Engineering from Nihon University, Tokyo. When he moved to Nepal, hebegan working for the Department of Cottage Industry of Nepal. Miyahara constructed
the Himalaya Hotel in Kathmandu. Miyahara founded Trans Himalaya Tours in 1968
and later obtained Nepalese nationality.
Had he campaigned for the elections a bit earlier, Takashi Miyahara would have been
elected as a member of the Constituent Assembly and Legislature Parliament. With avision and planning, Miyahara lured a good number of voters and lost the elections by athin margin.
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Miyahara’s Story"There is nothing impossible to him who will try"-Alexander the GreatIt was the spring of 1968 when Takashi Miyahara first laid eyes on the magnificent
Everest range from a ridge in Syangboche. What he saw in front of him was absolutely
breathtaking. The scene captivated his heart and from that moment, he dared to dreamthat one day he would build a world class hotel in that same location.
Even today, building a hotel at 3880m is no small task. To have built one in the ‘60s
would have been extremely challenging. With no access to roads, the construction ofHotel Everest View relied on porters carrying the necessary items on a two week trek
from Lamusangu (80km from Kathmandu), or items being transported on a helicopter.
Materials such as the sliding glass doors used in the rooms, the glass for the solarium,
blankets and eating utensils were all imported from Japan. These were shipped to aport in Calcutta and then transported into Nepal.
The building of the hotel was undertaken with the help of local Sherpas. The project
took several years to complete due to the difficult conditions. The hotel was designed by
Japanese architect Yoshinobu Kumagaya. To this day, the hotel receives praise for thesimple yet elegant design that coexists beautifully with its pristine surrounding.
Miyahara and his team’s hard work and determination eventually paid off as Hotel
Everest View opened its doors to visitors in 1971.
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This hotel was built with a dream that guests from all over the world can come andenjoy a 360 degree view of the Himalayas, appreciate Mt. Everest from every room andbe treated with great hospitality. It is this unparalleled location and experience thatmakes a visit to Hotel Everest View a once in a lifetime trip. For a few, it is a journeythat is taken many, many times.

Photo Gallery of Hotel Everest View

(left) Everest 8848m (right) Lhotse 8516m south face

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KEIO ALPINE CLUBAscents in the Shuangqiaogou, Qionglai Mountains
Three first ascents and repeat ascent of Eagle Rock PeakTwo teams of the Keio University Alpine Club climbed rock peaks surrounding Dagou
and Xia Gou in Shuangqiaogou valley of the Qionglai Mountains, Sichuan, in August –September, 2013.

Team A (Students)
Period: August 3 – August 22
Members: Takaaki Morikami, Kengo Tagai, Yusuke Kimura, Kengo Nagano

Team B
Period: August 31 – September 22
Members: Kenji Onodera, Keita Kanehara
1Record of Team A – Peak Surrounding Dagou

Route on Haobangah

2Route on Fenghuang3Top of Fenghuang

4Line on Shizi
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Climbing Haobangah

6On the summit ridge of Fenghuang

7Climbing Shizi

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Climbing lower wall of Eagle Rock Peak

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On August 3rd, Morikami and Nagano set up base camp at 4,000m. They firstreconnoitered the Dagou (branch valley) for two days and gave up an attempt on the
5120m peak because of danger of falling rocks. Instead a peak between Dagou andChangpingou was chosen as an alternative, and they succeeded in reaching the summitof Haobangah peak on August 9th.
The next target was Shizi peak on the ridge of 5,120m peak. Morikami, Tagai andKimura succeeded in the first ascent of this peak on August 15th. In succession
Morikami and Tagai made the first ascent s of Fenghuang peak on August 19th andXiao peak on August 21st. Fenghuang peak ranges from Shizi peak and Ohuchi peak.
Xiao peak was discovered while reconnoitering the Changpingou.
No bolt was used for ascending Haobangah, Shizi, and Fenghuan peaks, but cam device,nuts, pitons, and slings were used. However only for Shizi peak, we drove in bolts for 10
pitches out of 13 pitches as anchors for descent and for fixed rope.

Record of Team B – Opened New Route on the lower part of Eagle
Rock Peak Route
Onodera and Kanehara entered Shuangqiaogou right after Team A returned to Japan,
but it rained for two weeks and temperature soon. It sometimes snowed at 4000m.

Climbing Eagle Rock Peak10

Route of Eagle Rock Peak11

To their luck, nevertheless, a favor swung toward them from September 12th, a fineweather came back and temperature gradually increased. On the 13th, we climbed theof Niuxinshan for acclimatization to a high altitude. Because of snow, they changed
their target from Potala Shan to Eagle Rock Peak. We set up base camp by Baihaizi,and headed to the summit on the following day. Even it was in the middle of the fineweather period, we got into Thunderstorm storm broke even during fine weather while
they bivouacked on the 16th – 17th. The lower wall of Eagle Rock Peak has a height ofabout 400m (8 pitches). The followed a line in the middle of the wall with continuous
cracks, flakes, and corners. There were some falling rocks and flowing water when it
rained, but it didn’t hit the line as the face was too steep.
As corner on the lower-middle part of the line was wet and crack of the slab face on theupper-middle part was grassy, the ropes ran out. Since a bolting kit was left at the basecamp, no bolt applied.
The upper wall has a height of about 700m. They reached to the head wall via gentle
face and band. The climbing line was the same as that of a Chinese party having
climbed a couple of days ago. They used existing bolts in each belaying point.
Descending route was on the same line on the head wall, and from the middle part ofthe line, they descended to the basal part of the upper half wall via right side of theridge. They rappelled down 11 times. .
It is noted that the team stood atop Eagle Rock Peak opening a new route “Hagoroamo”
on the lower wall of the Eagle Rock Peak.

Route summary:Haobangah Peak 4870m
Wall height to climb: 275m, 8 pitches, Grade: 5.8
Pitch 1 – 60m, 5.5, Nagano, traverse screes to the fragile wall
Pitch 2 – 40m, 5.8, Morikami, fragile wall to the ridge
Pitch 3 – 40m, 5.7, Morikami, face to the ridge
Pitch 4 – 25m, 5.8, Morikami, right side corner of the ridge to the terrace
Pitch 5 – 20m, 5.8, Morikami, right side corner on the terrace
Pitch 6 – 15m, 5.8, Morikami, corner to the terrace
Pitch 7 – 50m, 5.6, Morikami, traverse to the right side of the ridge
Pitch 8 – 25m, 5.6, Nagano, climb along the ridge to the top

Shizi Peak 5057m
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Wall height to climb: 570m, 13 pitches, Grade: 5.10c
Pitch 1 – 60m, 5.10b, Morikami, traverse from the large flake to the crack on theright. (Tagai climbed this pitch later and made it a free route)
Pitch 2 – 60m, 5.5, Morikami, gully
Pitch 3 – 60m, 5.5, Morikami, gully
Pitch 4 – 20m, 5.10a, Tagai, a wall on the left side of the gully
Pitch 5 – 30m, 5.10c, Morikami, reversing phase slab
Pitch 6 – 50m, 5.10c, Tagai, traverse of the slab
Pitch 7 – 60m, 5.5, Morikami, straight up the screes
Pitch 8 – 30m, 5.5, Tagai, screes
Pitch 9 – 50m, 5.10a, Morikami, traverse below the overhung rock to the left, thenright up to the terrace
Pitch 10 – 50m, 5.10a, Tagai, straight up the slightly concaved angle to the col
Pitch 11 – 30m, 5.9, Morikami, crack on the left side of the ridge
Pitch 12 – 50m, 5.9, Tagai, ridge
Pitch 13 – 20m, 5.8, Morikami, a small gap to the peakFenghuang Peak 4984m
Wall height to climb: 340m, 7 pitches, Grade: 5.10a
Pitch 1 – 50m, 5.8, Tagai, gully
Pitch 2 – 50m, 5.8, Morikami, gully
Pitch 3 – 50m, 5.7, Tagai, gully
Pitch 4 – 50m, 5.10a, Morikami, go across the buttress to the right and climb theface to the up right direction
Pitch 5 – 50m, 5.8, Tagai, straight up the corner
Pitch 6 – 50m, 5.8, Morikami, the face
Pitch 7 – 40m, 5.6, Tagai, ridge to the peak
Eagle Rock Peak ca.5300m

Wall height to climb: 1100m, Grade: 5.11, “Hagoromo” route on the lower part13

DAVE ANDERSONFirst Ascent of Mt. Dayangtianwo, Qionglai Mountains
An international climbing expedition completed the first ascent of Mt Dayantgianwo(17126ft) in the Shuangqiao Valley of Siguniang National Park in Sichuan China. On
09/15/2013 Chaohui Zheng of China, Szu-ting Yi of Taiwan and American Dave
Anderson climbed the 2000 ft southwest face at 5.10 r/x, 60 degrees. The three climbers
had been part of a larger expedition organized by Zheng that attempted the peak earlier
in the month, but were forced to abandon their initial attempt after a series ofstorms covered the rock peak with several feet of snow. After week long period of good
weather that melted most of the snow the three climbers, along with Tibetan climber
Laoyao Xu returned to their high camp at the base of Dayangtianwo. The next day they
started climbing two separate routes on the southwest face. After 7 pitches the two
teams routes intersected, Xu decided to descend and Zheng joined Yi and Anderson andclimbed to summit and rappelled in the dark returning to their high camp in a 16 hourround trip push. Yi and Anderson named their route "Three Sheep Bring Prosperity” forthe Baharal Mountain Sheep that ran past them through fifth class terrain near thesummit. Zheng named his variation "Top of a Dream."
Also in the Shaungqiao Valley Yi, Anderson and Chinese climber Yunching Liu
established “Playing with Fire” a 1500 ft route, 9 pitches 5.10- on the south ridge on
Seerdengpu. The trio completed the route on 8/25/2013 with one bivy during thedescent.

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HIROO YONEZAWAFirst ascent of the Central Pillar north of Baihaizi
The Central Pillar 5380m (GPS) ranges south of Potala Shan 5428m, east of Eagle RockPeak ca. 5300m and west of Wargrusei ca. 5300m. They surround Baihaizi (White Lake)at 4600m to southeast. We tentatively call these peaks as “Baihaizi three mountains”.
The Central Pillar soars about 100m higher than Eagle Rock and Wargrusei. See themap.

Climbing record of the Central Pillar
Expedition period: June 28 – August 24
Members: Naoki Ohuchi, Hiroo Yonezawa, Koji Sano, Yousuke Yamazaki
On July 30 Ohuchi and I set up a base camp near-by a beautiful blue lake, Baihaizi, at
4600m and after two days rest trial climbing started on August 2. Approach to thewall to climb took more time than estimated. We first ascended moraine and then threepitches on snow bed to the red-brown colored face which led to a starting point ofclimbing the wall.
Ohuchi led climbing of the lower part of the wall negotiating narrow cracks andoverhung using artificial aids and deposited loads on the upper terrace. Yonezawa
carried loads. August 3 was a rest day. Climbing was resumed on August 4. After twobivouacs we reached a ridge between the Central Pillar and Wargrusei, where the trial
climbing ended. We once descended to a lower village.
We returned to Baihaizi and again set up a base camp there on August 13. All of four
members gathered. We climbed six pitches to the highest point of the trial climbing andeposited loads there on August 15. August 16 was a rest day.
On August 17 we continued climbing in two parties. First pitches 1 – 6 were led by
Ohuchi, pitches 7 – 11 were led by Yonezawa and pitch 12 was led by Ohuchi. After pitch
12 we bivouacked. On August 18 Yamazaki led pitches 13 and 14. Yonezawa led pitch 15
and the last pitch was led by Sano. We finally reach a small peak just left of 15m rocktower like an obelisk and completed the first ascent of the Central Pillar at 12:10 on
August 18.

Route summary
Wall height to climb: 510m, Climbing distance: 565m, 17 pitches, Grade: A1, VI+1

Pitch 1 – 40m, couloirs with screes to red-brown face
Pitch 2 – 20m, A1, VI+, crack then overhung to terrace
Pitch 3 – 20m, A0, V+, face climbing from terrace to terrace
Pitch 4 – 20m, A0, VI –, face/hollow rock to stable terrace (1st bivouac at trial climb)
Pitch 5 – 20m, V+, face to small terrace
Pitch 6 – 45m, IV+, II, III, face then traverse (2nd bivouac at trail climb)
Pitch 7 – 45m, A1, V, face, overhung, hollow part, unstable belay
Pitch 8 – 45m, Hollow face to band, then to screes
Pitch 9 – 25m, IV, Hollow-unstable face
Pitch 10 – 50m, V–, Hollow face to band, then to terrace
Pitch 11 – 35m, V, 20m crack, 15m face to terrace
Pitch 12 – 50m, V–, face/crack/face to terrace, bivouac spot
Pitch 13 – 50m, VI–, face to crack
Pitch 14 – 50m, VI, face, crack, chimney, col then face
Pitch 15 – 50m, A1, VI+, crack, below overhung then hollow part
Pitch 16 – 20m, IV–, band, screes to terrace
Pitch 17 – 30m, IV–, vertical hollow face, crack, face to the summit 5380m (GPS)2

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WANG ZHIMINGNew Route on Eagle Rock Peak, Qionglai Mountains, Sichuan
A Dream of 353 Years –13 pitches，5.11a，650m
At 4:30pm on August 27, 2013, I was gasping with my back leaning on the rock. Heng
Zhao and Jinyun Dong, my teammates, were thoughtfully looking at me. Cloud
rapidly gathered around us as not unusually in this season. We were pushing the 11th
pitch at least 500 meters above the base camp.
The Eagle Rock Peak ca. 5,300m dominantly towers southeast of Potala Shan in the
Shuangqiao Valley. The only climbing record is Swiss team of Christof Looser, Martin
Ruggli and Lukas Durr. They stood atop in October, 2005. The name of route is I Hate
Camping: 21 pitch, VI,F7a（5.11d）, A3, 700m.

On August 23
We set up the base camp at 4,400m south of the Eagle Rock Peak.
On August 25
We carefully studied logistic route and reconnoitered viable access to start climbing.
Weather was easy to change, sunny, rain and cloudy.
Pitch 1: A gentle slab of 50 – 60°angle with crack could be soloed with no protection.
Grade 5.7R.
Pitch 2: Angle increased to 70°with lose rock, but was soloed. Grade 5.8R.
Pitch 3: Real climbing started. Slab with no crack of Grade 5.7R. 8mm bolt and shortrope left by Japanese having abandoned due to bad weather was found.
Pitch 4: Also slab with less crack of Grade 5.7R continued. Weather got worse withrain. 100m rope was fixed.
On August 26
Another party of our group climbed to “Switzerland terrace”. We had different
approaches. We chose right way to an integrated crack that directed to the top of theEagle Rock Peak. The other party returned to the base camp. They climbed threepitches of total 150m with 70°rock. The grades are 5.8R，5.8R，5.5. They also fixedropes.
On August 27
I was the first that arrived to Switzerland terrace, above which is the main crack. The
angle looked vertical.
At 12:30pm Dong and Zhao finally arrived to the terrace. I followed a crack from theplatform to the right side. That was Pitch 8 Grade 5.7 with crack and smooth wall.
At 1:30pm Pitch 9 started. Climbing was really dramatic. We made a good choice.
After Pitch 8 belay station, I moved 15m to the right side, then to the left by 10m andentered main crack. This was a wonderful route of Grade 5.10+. I put an anchor on
small terrace, fixed ropes for Griff and Zhao.
At 3:00pm Pitch 10 was steeper with crack. As ascending the crack became narrowand harder to climb with Grade 5.10+. After about 35m climb we reached a terrace
where we found two pitons and corrupted white nylon rope and small metal ring that1was put by Switzerland team for descending after they successfully summited. At
4:00pm Pitch 11 was traverse with Grade 5.9.
At 5:00pm the initial push of Pitch 12 was big challenge for two narrow vertical cracks,
after them we entered easy chimney. When we found three remaining pitons in thispitch en-route, I was very much puzzled. Did we repeat the old route that any teamalready finished before? This was definitely not along the Switzerland route. Are they
belonging to a Japanese or Korean team we met recently? We did not find any
information about them online because of the language difference. Our goal was toopen new route, thus these three pitons frustrated us a lot. This pitch was thetoughest through the entire route. Grade is 5.11a.
At 6:00pm cloud appeared. We opened headlamps. Dong and Zhao followed me Pitch
13 with 70°cracks and finally “Summit, we’ve got it”. At 7:30pm Looking around I
was between the low summit and middle summit of the Eagle Rock Peak. The height
gap was about 20m. There was a higher peak some 200m away hidden from theShuangqiao Valley. At 8:00pm we continuously climbed 14 hours after departing frombase camp. I cleaned up ropes for descent. We did not left any spare rock protection,nut, webbing, rope and other climbing gears and man-made rubbish on the route. (Seethe map and photo of Article “First ascent of the Central Pillar”.)

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