ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS
Issue No. 23, April 2018
With release of the Asian Alpine E-News Issue No. 23 begins publishingchapters of the new edition of the Guidebook "Mountaineering areas of
Kyrgyzstan”
The guide provides an overview and brief description (characteristics ofareas, location, seasons, climate, climbing history, camps and bases,
entrances and approaches, climbing opportunities) as well as well-developed
mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan, and rarely visited and promising areas.
There are described opportunities and recommendations on the organization,
logistics of mountaineering expeditions, rescue operations, communications
and formalities.
The guide will be useful for those who are going to climb to Kyrgyzstan
or choose new areas of the world for climbing.
Author Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guide, Presidentof the Kyrgyz Mountain guides Association and the Kyrgyz Alpine Club,
engaged in Mountaineering for more than 50 years. He has repeatedly
visited all the areas described by him. In this issue the following threearticles are delivered. The other articles will follow in succession.

CONTENTS
Kuiluu Range of Tien-Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan Page 2～11

Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area
(Ala-Archа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan)

Page12~38

Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan
Short Description and photo exposition of the route and tactics ofascending the Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya summit Page39~66
1

Vladimir Komissarov, Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams

Kuiluu Range of Tien-Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan.

Pic. 1. Orographic map of Kuiluu Range.

1The Range (Pic. 1) is located in Issyk-Kul region from the Southern side of Terskey Alatoo
Range between the rivers: Kuiluu River – from the North, Uchkul River – from the South, Sarujaz
River from the East and Irtash River – from the West. Range stretches for almost 50 km northeast.
The history of the region exploration.
The region exploration has proceeded in two stages. First stage is the Soviet period (termuntil 1991) when all ascents had been done to the highest summit of Constitucia Peak andnearest summits. The region exploring started in 1936 by expedition of A. Letavet whenlocation of the highest peak of the range has been defined. The first ascent to the highest pointof the range was done by the group of climbers led by I. Cherepov in the frame of A. Letavet
second expedition in 1937. The summit was called Stalinskaya Constitucia Peak. This peak
was renamed to Sovetskaya Constitucia Peak in 70s-80s. It calls Constitucia Peak nowadays.
Ascent to the neighboring summit named Karpinski Peak (5025) was done at that time.
One more climbing expedition led by B. Gavrilov was arranged in 1956. They extended rotes tosix summits of the area, including Obruchev Peak (5203). Two more expeditions werearranged in 1971 and 1977. Motor road from Saryjaz village to the northern part of Kuiluu
Range and further to the east and south-east operated in Soviet time. The region exploringhas proceeded from these directions.
The second stage started in postsoviet time. Climbing expeditions were arranged to theunclimbed mountain areas which were easy for approach. It is Northern part of Kuiluu Range(find below). Extensive geological monitoring activities took place in 80s of last century on theupper Kuiluu River. The road was built up to highest points of this gorge.
Mountaineering expedition of International School of Mountaineering (ISM) under theleadership of Pat Littlejohn initiated new stage of the region exploration in Karator Gorge in2000 y. There were about 10 international expeditions from this time in Kuiluu Range(Karator and Bardytor Gorges)
The highest altitude of Kuiluu Range is Constitucia Peak, 5281m, relief is more various
than the relief of neighboring Ak-Shirak Range and exceed of heights here is up to 1100
meters. There are a lot of rock walls and high steps of icefall among numerous of glacier
circuses. The most summits are still virgin here and there are a lot of opportunities for first
ascents and new routes. Routes are as easy as well medium and high difficulty level. Rocks aremainly formed by metamorphic and ejecta materials. Destroyed and solid rocks are here.
There are three parts of Kuiluu Range which are different for approach and in
exploration: North, South-East and South-West regions. North, South-East regions areavailable by cross-country vehicle from Karakol town via Chon-Ashu Pass (3622m) along themountain road.
Northern Region is the north slopes of Kuiluu Range located along Kuiluu River. The
west part of the area is available by road goes along the left bank of the river. Left bank turnoff is located at the 6th km of the road from the confluence of the river Ottuk to Saryjaz River,downstream. The road goes up to Karator Gorge which is available by vehicle through Kuiluu
River in summer time. It is easy to find good place to set up base camp here. It is necessary to
cross two rivers on the way: Molo River (10 km far from the start point of the road) andSarychat River (18 km). It is possible wade the river only early in the morning in summer
time when the water level in the river is still low and only by the cross country vehicle,
truckbus. All-the-year-round nomad’s camp is located in Ashutor Gorge, 500 meters up fromthe end of the road. It is possible to hire horses, buy fresh dairy products and meat there. The
most comfortable places to set up base camp are located in a mouth of Karator and Bardytor
Rivers. More than 10 climbing expeditions visited Kuiluu upper from 2000 year. Despite
numerous of expeditions there are still a lot of unclimbed peaks in the region. Some unclimbed

2

peaks of Bardytor Glacier you can find on the pictures. Approach way from base camps toupper of Karator, Bardytor and Ashutor Gorges takes 5-7 hours. Ascents in this region havebeen done to the easy approach summits only, routes to the summits are also easy.
The road to the eastern part of northern slopes of Kuiluu Range goes along the right sideof Kuilu River. The road starts from the border post located at the right bank of Kuilu River inthe point of its confluence to Saryjaz River.
Northern region is the easiest for approach and the most often visited region of Kuuilu
Range.
South-East Region is located in the basins of Big Taldysu and Small Taldysu Rivers andTerekty River. The region could be reachable by walking along Big and Small Taldysu Rivers
from the place of its confluence to Saryjaz River, up to Saryjaz village. Approach takes 5-6hours from the mouth to the upper of the rivers.
The area of Taldysuu Rivers is rear visited by climbers. Terekty River basin is also apart of South-East sub region. The road leaded directly there was built by geologists in 70s80s of last century and was destroyed by the end of 80s. The highest point of the range,
Constitucia Peak is located exactly here. There are several routes to the summit.
South-West Region takes place at the south-western and western slopes of Kuiluu Range,along Uchkul and Irtash Rivers. Land transfer to this region is impossible at present time.
Path goes from the north-western side through Barscoon Gorge to upper of Arabel River andfurther along Kumtor, Sarychat Rivers and from the left side of Irtash River to Western
Kuiluu River. Vehicle may deliver only to the upper of Sarychat River and further two days ofwalking approach to the climbing area is required. Walking path starts from the southwestern side, Barscoon Gorge through Suek pass to Karasay village and further toUchkoshkon village walking approach takes two days including hard crossing of Uchkul River.
The road from south-eastern side along Uchkol River existed in 70s of last century. It was
fully destroyed and washed up at present. South-West region is one of the most difficult toaccess climbing area of Kyrgyzstan and the single way to reach this region is helicopter
delivery.
Soth-West region is almost fully included in the area of Sarychat-Ertashski Reserve,
visit permit is required. Permit can be obtained in Reserve directorate located in Barscoon
village (South side of Issyk-Kul Lake).
Kuilu Range List of climbed summits and routes, Kyrgyzstan / Таблица пройденных вершини маршрутов хребта Куйлю Кыргызстан
Route # Peak
name, First climbing team lieder, route
Grade
Year
of
№ мар- altitude by meters Лидер группы совершившей первое /Кат.
ascent /Годшрута/Название прохождение, маршрут
трудн. восхождени
/вершины, высота
я/в метрах
6.1
4161
Viktor Saunders
2000
4201
Viktor Saunders
2000
4275
Viktor Saunders
2000
4290 (N)Vladimir Komissarov
2A
2000
4290 (S)
Vladimir Komissarov
2A
2000
4375
Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams
2009
4390
Viktor Saunders
2000
4551
Pat Littlejohn
2000
4602
4655
Гаврилов Б.
1956
4686
Гаврилов Б.
1956
4710,
Vladimir Komissarov
3A
2009
Krenintor, 4732
Pat Littlejohn
2000

3

4775
Karpinskogo, 4781
4787
Humani, 4800
Pietro Segantini,
4825
Altyntoo, 4872
Tsarevitch, 4920
Parkhomenko,
5056
Matershinnitsa,50
91
Mensy, 5101
Obrutcheva(Karator), 5203
Konstitutsii, 5281

Suchorukov MichailГаврилов Б.
?
Viktor Saunders
Vladimir Komissarov, from N
Vladimir Komissarov, from NE
Pat Littlejohn
Pat LittlejohnГаврилов Б.

AD
2A
2B
AD
PD

Pat Littlejohn, Viktor Saunders along S PD
RidgeГаврилов Б.
Гаврилов Б.
Viktor Saunders
PDЧерепов И.
Boshman Verner
5B?

Right peak is 5053m. Unclimbed peaks of Bardytor canyon of Kuilu Range

4

1B

2006
1956
?
2000
2000
2008
2000
2000
1956
2000
1956
1956
2000
1937
1971
1977

Kuilu Range. 4920m Peak left and Pietro Segantini Peak 4825m both are climbed.

Peaks: right peak is 5051m (unclimbed), left is 5053m (unclimbed) of Bardytor Glacier.
Central is 5077m (unclimbed) of Terekty George of Kuilu Range

5

Unclimbed peak of upper richer Bardytor Glacier of Kuilu Range.

Base camp near Confluence Rivers Kuilu and Batdytor.

6

Molo River crossing. Kuilu river basin.

Upper richer of Kuilu River.

7

Bardytor River crossing.

Base camp Karator.

8

Lower reach of Kuilu River.

Author – Vladimir Komissarov

9Authors – Pat Littlejohn, Vladimir Komissarov, Adrian Nelhams

10Киргизский Республиканский
Альпинистский КлубМаршруты бассейна ледника Ак-Сай, АлаАрчинское ущелье, Кыргызский хребет,Тянь-Шань
Составитель Владимир КОМИССАРОВпо состоянию на 10 июля 2017 года.
Количество маршрутов по категориям трудности:1Б - 8, 2А – 13, 2Б – 4, 3А – 14, 3Б -11, 4А – 10, 4Б – 18,
5А – 33, 5Б – 40, 6А – 11, ∑- 162. Из них на пикКорона 38 маршрутов, на пик Свободная Корея 25маршрутов.
Учитывались как классифицированные, так инеклассифицированные маршруты (в таблице
отмечены *). Категория неклассифицированных
маршрутов указывалась по оценке группы,совершившей
первопрохождение.
Первое
восхождение в районе совершено Озаровским В. напик Учитель в 1938 году.

Рис. 1. Орографическая схема района ледника
Ак-Сай, Ала-Арчинское ущелье, Киргизский
хребет. Номера вершин на схеме: 1 – пикПионер, 2 - пик Комсомолец, 3 - пик Павлика
Морозова, 4 – пик Олега Кошевого, 5 – пикУчитель, 6 – пик Байчичикей, 7 – пик Скрябина,8 – пик Семенова Тянь-Шанского. 9 – пик1

Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area (AlaArchа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan)
By Vadimir KOMISSAROV
Status at July 10, 2017.
Routes count according grades (Russian grades):1B - 8, 2А – 13, 2B – 4, 3А – 14, 3B -11, 4А – 10, 4B –18, 5А – 33, 5B – 40, 6А – 11, ∑- 162 ( from its Korona
Peak 38 routes, Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak
25 routes).
Accounted as classified routes, as non classified routes(marked by *). Estimation of non classified routes wasdone according of first ascent team estimation. First
ascent in the area was done on 1938 by V.Ozarovskii
on Uchitel Peak.

Корона Западная, 10 – пик Корона, 11 – пикИзыскатель, 12 – пик Двурогая, 13 – пикКосмонавтов, 14 – пик Байлян-Баши, 15 – пикСимагина, 16 – пик Свободная Корея, 17 - пикАк-Тоо, 18 – пик Трезубец, 19 – пик Теке-Тор,20 – пик Рацека, 21 – пик Бокс, 22 – пик Перо.
Номера строений на схеме: I – природный паркАла-Арча, II– хижина Ак-Сай на стоянке Рацека,III – хижина Наука, IV - хижина Корона.
Fig. 1. Orographik Scheme of Ak-Say Glacier area,
Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyz Range. Peak numberson the Scheme: 1 – Pioneer Peak, 2 Komsomolets Peak, 3 - Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4– Olega Koshevogo Peak, 5 – Uchitel (Ticher) Peak,
6 – Baichichikey Peak, 7 – Skriabina Peak, 8 –Semionova Tien-Shanskogo Peak, 9 – Korona west

Peak, 10 – Korona Peak, 11 – Izyskatel Peak, 12 –Dvurogaia Peak, 13 – Kosmonavtov Peak, 14 –Bailian-Bashi Peak, 15 – Skriabina Peak, 16 –Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak, 17 – Ak-Too
Peak, 18 – Trezubets Peak, 19 – Teke-Tor Peak, 20– Ratseka Peak, 21 – Boks Peak, 22 – Pero Peak.
Buildings in the area: I -Natural Park Ala-Archa, II– Ak-Say hut on Ratsek Stop, Nauka hut, Koronahut.

Таблица вершин и маршрутов/List of summits and routesНомер вершины на карте, название , высота в метрах, номера фотографий /Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos№ мар- Лидер группы совершившей первое прохождение, маршрут /шрута
First climbing team leader, routeнафото/Route# on aphoto

Кат. Год /труд Year
н./Gr
ade

1, Пик Пионер, 4050, фото №1/ 1, Pioneer Peak, 4050, #1, photo#1
1.1Маречек Б. (с С)/ Marechek B. (from N)
1.2
с пер. Кашка-Су/ from Kashka-Su Pass
1,3
по З гр./ along W Ridge

2А
1Б
1Б

2, Пик Комсомолец, 4134, / 2, Komsomolets Peak, 4134, #2
2.1
С пер. Фиолетовый/ from Fioletovyi (Violet) Pass
2.2
с пер. Кашка-Суу/ from Kashka-Su Pass1Б1Б3, Пик Павлика Морозова, 4200, фото №2/ 3, Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200, photo #2
3.1
Ч-з Красную Горку с пер Фиолетовый/ from Fioletovyi Pass over red m-t
3.2
по З гр./ along W Ridge2А
1Б

4, Пик Олега Кошевого, 4300,/ 4, Olega Koshevogo Peak, 4300, #4
4,1
с С на Ю/ from N to S
4.2
с Ю на С/ from S to N3А3А

5. Пик Учитель, 4527м, фото №3, 7/ 5. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527, Photos #3 and 7
5.1
Озаровский В./ Ozaroskii V.
5.2Шлунегер А. по З кул. и Ю гр./Schlunegger A. W cul. and S range

1Б
2A*

1950

1949

1938
2011

6. Пик Байчичикей, 4515м, фото№4, 5, 6, 7/ 6. Baichichikey (Snowdrop) Peak, 4515, photos #4,5,6,7
6.1
Тустукбаев А. л. кулуару З ст./ left culuar of W wall
2А*
1969
6.2
Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S.
3Б
2012
6.3
Илюшенко А./ Ilushenko A.
4Б
1989
6.4
Кузьменко Б./ Kuzmenko B.
5А
1977
6.5
Дашкевич С./ Dashkevich S.
5А
2007
6.6
Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D.
5А*
2010
6.7
Поляк В./ Poliak V.
5А
1983
2

6.8
6.9
6.10
6.11
6.12

Калашников А./ Kalashnikov A.
Шваб А./ Shvab A.
Михайлов М./ Mikhailov M.
Чечулин А., Корнеев А./Chechulin A., Korneev A.
Москалев А. с В/ Moskaliov A. From E

7. Пик Скрябина, 4753, фото №7 и 8/ Skriabina Peak, 4753, photo #7 and 8
7.1
З гр./ along W Ridge
7.2Евсюков Г./ Evsukov G.

5А*
5А
5А*
4A*
1Б

1986
1980
1999
2008
1948

3А
3А

1972

8. Пик Семенова-Тяньшанского, 4895, фото №8, 9/ Semionova T-Sh Peak, 4895, photos #8 and 9
8.1Плакущев И./ Plakuschev I.
3А
1987
8.2
Скотников Д.,Маркевич К.
5Аз
2015
8.3
Федоров А./Fedorov A.
5А
2013
8.4
Наговицина Е./ Nagovitsyna E.
5А
1999
8.5
Захаров Н./ Zakharov N.
5А
1988
8.6
Дашкевич А./ Dashkevich A.
5Аз
2011
8.7
Никифоренко О./ Nikifirenko O.
5А
1988
8.8
Плотников И.пр.часть З стены/ Plotnikov I. Right part of W wall
5A
1996
8.9
Еропунов А.Н./ Eropunov A.
3А
1952
8.10
Шубин А./ Shubin A.
3Б
1950
8.11
Губаев А./ Ghubaev A.
3Б
1987
8.12
Потоцкий А. Марк Айткен\4А*
2015Корона Западная, 4300м, фото #10/ Korona West Peak, 4300, photo #10
9.1
Федоров А./Fedorov A.
9.2Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S.
9.3Дашкевич С./ Dashkevich S.
9.4Новосельцев Е./ Novoseltsev E.
9.5СеливерстовС. (соло)/ Seliverstov S/ (solo)
9.6
Brown W. М6+
9.7
Акимов В./ Akimov V.
9.8Сыщиков А. с ЮЗ/ Syschikov A. From SW

4Aз
5Аз
4Бз
4Б
5Аз
4Б
3Б
3Б

2013
2010
2002
2013
2012
1994
2014

Корона, 1 башня, 4840, № 10, фото № 10, 11 /, Korona Peak, 1st buttress, 4840, #10, photo #10 and 11
10.1
Гаврилов Б./ Gavrilov B.
4А
1956
10.2
?
4А
1989
10.3
Павленко Д. (соло)/ Pavlenko D. (solo)
5Б
2009
10.4
Королев В./ Koroliev V.
5Б
1980
10.5
Попов Ф./ Popov F.
5Б
1976
10.6
Плотников И./ Plotnikov I.
5Б
1995
10.7
Смирнов Ю./ Smirnov U.
5Б
1962
10.8
Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A.
5А
2000
10.9
Селиверстов С., Акбуюков Д./Seliverstov S., Akbuiukov D.
5Аз
2014
10.10
Калюгин К./ Kavughin K.
5Б
1982
10.11
Ручкин А.(соло)/ Ruchkin A.(solo)
5Б
2000
10.12
Плотников И./ Plotnikov i.
4А
1995
10.13
Белобаченко Е./ Belobachenko E.
3А
1976
10.14
Башманов Ю.,Королев В.по кам. с З/ Bashmnov Iu.,along chimney from W
3А
1980
3

Корона 1, 2, 3 башни, №10, фото 11/ 1, 2, 3 buttress of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.15
2 башня с ЮЗ
10.16
2 башня с СЗ

2А
2А

?
?

Корона 4 башня, 4850м, №10, фото 12/ 4 buttress of Korona Peak, #10< photo 13
10.17
Темерев И./ Temerev I.

5А

2014

Корона 5 башня, 4850м, №10, фото 12/ 5 buttress of Korona Peak, 4850, #10, photo 12
10.18
Егоров В./ Egorov V.
10.19Садовский В./ Sadovskii V.
10.20
Михайлов М./ Mihailov M.
10.21Балезин В./ Balezin V.
10.22Ружевский В./ Ruzhevskii V.
10.23Маркевич К./ Markevich K.

5А
5Б
5Б
6А
5Б
6А

?
1968
1994
1976
2013

Корона 6 башня, 4840м, №10, фото12/ 6 b buttress atris of Korona Peak, 4840, #10, photo 12
10.24
Сыщиков А, Ткач Н./ Syschikopv A.? Tkach N.
5Бз
10.25
Глуховцев А./ Gluhovtsev A.
5Б
10.26Логинов И./ Loghiniv I.
5Б
10.27
Андреев Р. с перемычки между Двурогой и 6 башней/ Andreev R.
4Б

2015
1963
2013
1959

Траверсы Короны, 4860, №10, фото 11/ Traverses of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.28
2-3 башни
10.29
3-2 бащни
10.30
1-6 башни, Гаврилов В./ Gavrilov V.
10.31
6-1 башни

3А
3А
5А
5А

?
?
1956
?

Изыскатель, 4400, №11, фото 13, 15, 16/ Izyskatel Peak, 4400, #11, photo 13, 15, 16
11.1
Боголюбов В./ Bogolubov V.
11.2Родиков А./Rodikov A.
11.3Глухов В./Glukhov V.
11.4Селиверстов С., Филинов В./Seliverstov S., Filinov V.
11.5Иранский м-т В часть С стены/Iranian rout, E part of N face

2А
3Б
3Б
4Б
3A*

1982
1988
1967
2014
2016

Двурогая, 4380м, №12, фото 12/ Dvurogaia Peak,4380, #12, photo 12
12.1
Кулемин М./Kulemin M.
12.2
Нескородов А./ Neskorodov A.

4Б
5Аз

1960
2012

Космонавтов, 4368, №13, фото 14, 15, 16/ Kosmonavtov Peak, 4368, #13, photo 14, 15, 16
13.1
Саратовкин В. по ЮЗ кулуару и Ю гр./ Seratovkin V.
3Б
13.2
Кузменко Б. по СЗ кулуару и С гр./ Kuzmenko B.
4Б*

1962
1981

Байлян-Баши, 4737, №14, фото 14, 15, 16/ Bailian-Bashi Peak, 4737, #13, photo 14, 15, 16
14.1
Еропунов А(тр.1-5б)/ Eropunov A.
4А
14.2Денисов В./ Denisov V.
5А
14.3Некрасов А./Nekrasov A.
5А
14.4Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D.
5А*

1952
1970
1984
2010

4

14.5
14.6
14.7

6А
5Б
5Б

?
2010
1961

Симагина, 4400, №15, фото 16/ Simaghin Peak, 4400, #15, photo 16
15.1
Бaлинский A./ Balinskii A.
15.2Полевой И./ Polevoi I.
15.3Родиков А./ Rodikov A.

5Б
5Б
4Б

1969
1969
1990

Свободная Корея, 4740, №16, фото 17/ Svobodnaia Korea Peak, 4740, #15, photo 17
16.1
Агафонов А./ Agafonov A.
16.2Балезин В./ Balezin V.
16.3Сыщиков А., Черемных А./ Syschikov A., Cheremnyh A.
16.4Шваб А./Shvab A.
16.5
Балезин В./ Balezin V.
16.6Иванов Н./ Ivanov N.
16.7Студенин Б./ Studenin B.
16.8
Кустовский А./ Kustovskii A.
16.9Михайлов М./ Mihailov M.
16.10Семилеткин./ Semiletkin
16.11Попенко Ю./ Popenko U.
16.12
Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A.
16.13
Беззубкин В./ Bezzubkin V.
16.14
Ручкин А./ Ruchkin A.
16.15
Мышляев Л./ Myshliaev L.
16.16(Самарский)/ Samarskii
16.17Багаев Б./ Bagaev B.
16.18
Барбер Г,/Barber G.
16.19
Amin Moein, Hamed Havaleh – Persian Gulf
16.20Гутник А., Акимов В./ Gutnik A Akimov V.
16.21Балезин В./ Balezin V.
16.22Павленко Д. (соло)/ Pavlenko (solo)
16.23Андреев Г./ Andreev G.
16.24
Лоу Д./ Low D.
16.25
Агафонов А./ Agafonov. A.

5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
6А
6А
6А
6А
6А
6А
6А
5Б
6А
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
5А
5Б
5Б
5А
5А
5А
5А

1991
1991
2015
1982
2000
2004
1966
1969
1999
1988
1975
2001
1969
1997
1961
1991
1974
1976
2014
2003
1994
2009
1959
1976
1991

Ак-Тоо, 4640, №17, фото 18, 19, 21/ Ak-Too Peak, 4640, #17, photo 18,19, 21
17.1
Гаврилов А./ Gavrilov A.
17.2Усманов А./ Usmanov A/
17.3Глазунов Е./ Glazunov E.
17.4Тарасов В./ Tarasov V.

4Б
4Б
4Б
4Б

1957
2013
2013
1989

Трезубец, 4380, №18, фото 19, 20, 21/ Trezubets Peak, 4380, #18, photo 19, 20, 21
18.1Прокофьев Д./ Prokofiev D.

4Б

2013

Теке-Тор, 4424, №19, фото 21, 22, 28/ Teke-Tor Peak, #19, photo 21,22, 28
19.1(Чешский)/ Chekhien
19.2Розин Ю./ Rozin U.
19.3
СВ ребро

4А
3Б
3Б

?
?
?

5

Кузьменко Б./ Kuzmenko B.
Дашкевич А./ Dashkevich A.
Мансуров Б./ Mansurov B.

19.4
19.5

Мухамедова Е./ Mukhamediva E.
Японский вариант 19.4/Japaneese variant of 19.5

3А
3A*

1957
2017

Рацека, 3980, №20, фото 23, 24/ Ratsek Peak, 3980, #20, photo 23, 24
20.1
Балыкин В./ Balykin V.
20.2Темерев И./ Temerev I.
20.3Акимов В. (с Ю)/ Akimov V. from S
20.4Акимов В. (с З)/ Akimov V. from W
20.5Акимов В. (с В)/ Akimov V. from E
20.6Потоцкий А. По СВ стене /Pototskii A. NE wall

2Б
2А
2А
3А
2Б
4А*

1987
2006
2012
2013
2013
2017

Бокс, 4200, №21, фото 25, 26, 28/ Boks Peak, 4200, #21, photo 25, 26, 28
21.1
Калитина А./ Kalitina A.
21.2
ЮВ кулуару/ SE kuluar
21.3
Кф В ст/ contrfors of E wall
21.4
Пугачев И. Кф В ст/ Pugachev I
21.5Павленко Д./ Pavlenko D.
21.6(Югославский)/ Ugoslavien
21.7Михайлов М./ Mihailov M/
21.8Корейский по Ц С стены/ Korean
21.9Селиверстов С./ Seloverstov S.
21.10
Селиверстов С./ Seliverstov S.
21.11Дашкевич А/ Dashkevich A.
21.12Селиверстов С./ Selivirstov S.
21.13
Айтбаев А./ Aitbaev A.
21.14
Табачиков _./ Tabachikov

2А
1Б
3Б
4Б
5Б
5А
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Аз
4Б
4А
4Б

1959
?
?
?
?
1987
1997
2014
2013
2013
2013
2012
1956
1990

Перо, 4049, №22, фото 27/ Pero Peak, 4049, #22, Photo 27
22.1
Акимов В./ Akimov V.

5Б

2014

Траверсы Ак-Сайской подковы, фото / Traverses of Ak-Say summites
23.1Игнатьев Н. Учитель-Байчичикей/ Ignatiev N. Uchitel – Baichichikey
23.2Байчичикей-Учитель/ Baichichikey - Uchitel
23.3Шубин А. Скрябина-Семенова Т-Ш/ Shubin A. Skriabina – Semiomova TS
23.4Семенова- Скрябина/Semionova TS – Skriabina
23.4Байлян-Баши – Теке-Тор/ Bailin-Bashi – Teke-Tor23.5Андреев Р. Теке-Тор – Байлян-Баши/ Andreev R. Teke-Tor -Bailian-Bashi
23.5Андреев Р. Двурогая- Скрябина/ Andreev R. Dvurogaia - Skriabina
23.6Скрябина-Двурогая/ Skriabina - Dvurogaia
23.7Шкодин В. Св.Кореи- Космонавтов/ Shkodin V. Sv.Korea - Kosmonavtov
23.8Житенев Ф Скрябина – Лермонтова/ Zhitenev F. Skriabina - Lermontova
23.9Комсомолец-Пионер/ Komsomolets - Pioner
23.10Пионер – Комсомолец / Pioner - Komsomolets
23.11Комсомолец – Павлика Морозова/ Komsomolets = Pavlika Morozova
23.12Павлика Морозова – Комсомолец/ Pavlika Morozova - Komsomolets

2Б
2Б
4Б
4А
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
5Б
2А
2A
2А
2А

1956
?
1955
1956
?
?
1961
?
1964
1967

Фотографии Комиссарова В.А./Photos by Komissarov V/

6Фото 1. Пик Пионер, 4050 м. Фото с юга/Photo 1. Pioneer Peak, 4050 m. Photo from S.

Фото 2. Пик Павлика Морозова, 4200 м./ Photo 2. Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200 m.

7Фото 3. Пик Учитель, 4527 м./ Photo 3. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527 m.

Фото 4. Пики Учитель, Байчичикей, Скрябина./ Photo 4. Uchitel, Baichichikey, Skriabina Peaks.
8Фото 5. Пик Байчичикей, 4515 м./ Photo 5. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.

Фото 6. Пик Байчичикей, 4515 м./ Photo 6. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.
9Фото 7. Пики Скрябина и Семенова-Тянь-Шанского./ Photo 7. Skriabina and Semenova T-Sh Peaks.

Фото 8. Пик Семенова -Тянь-Шанского, 4895 м./ Photo 8. Semenova T-Sh Peak, 4895 m.

10Фото 9. Пики Корона и Корона Западная/ Photo 9. Korona and Korona West Peaks.

Фото 10. Пики Корона и Изыскатель./ Photo 10. Korona and Izyskatel Peaks.
11Фото 11. Пики Корона (4, 5 и 6 башни) и Двурогая./ Photo 11. Korona (4, 5 and 6 buttress) andDvurogaia Peaks.

12Фото 12. Пик Изыскатель, 4400 м./ Photo 12. Izyskatel, 4400 m.

Фото 13. Пики Космонавтов и Байлян-Баши (1 башня)/ Photo 13. Kosmonavtov and BailianBashi(1buttres)Peaks.
13Фото 14. Пики Космонавтов и Байлян-Баши, на переднем плане ЮЗ гребень пика Изыскатель./Photo 14. Kosmonavtov and Bailian-Bashi Peaks, on the foreground SW ridge of Izyskatel Peak.

Фото 15. Пики Изыскатель, Космонавтов, Байлян-Баши, Симагина./Photo 15. Izyskatel, Kosmonavtov, Bailian-Bashi, Simaghin Peaks.
14Фото 16. Пики Симагина и Свободная Корея./ Photo 16. Simaghin and Svobodnaia Korea Peaks

Фото 17. Пик Ак-Тоо, 4640 м./ Photo 17. Ak-Too, 4640 m.
15Фото 18. Пики Ак-Тоо и Трезубец./ Photo 18. Ak-Too and Trezubets Peaks.

Фото 19. Пик Трезубец, 4380 м./ Photo 19. Trezubets Peak, 4380 m.
16Фото 20. Пики Ак-Тоо, Трезубец, Теке-Тор./ Photo 20. Ak-Too, Trezubets, Teke-Tor Peaks.

Фото 21. Пик Теке-Тор, 4424 м./ Photo 21. Teke-Tor, 4424 m.

17Фото 22. Пик Рацека, 3980 м./ Photo 22. Ratsek Peak, 3980 m.
18Фото 23. Пик Рацека с СВ./ Photo 23. Ratsek Peak from northeast.

Фото 24. Пик Бокс с В./ Photo 24. Boks Peak from East.

19Фото 25. Пик Бокс с С./ Photo 25. Boks Peak from North.

Фото 26. Пики Теке-Тор и Бокс./ Photo 26. Teke-Tor and Boks Peaks.
20Фото 26. Пик Перо с СВ (со стоянки Рацека)./ Photo 26. Pero Peaks from northeast(from Ratsek Stop).
21Обзорные фотографии района ледников Ак-Сай, Учитель, Наука/
Review photo region of glaciers: Ak-Sai, Uchitel, Nauka

Фото 27. Пики Байчичикей, Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, Корона. Вид со стоянки Рацека на З./ Photo
27. Baichichikey, Semenova T-Sh, Korona. View from the Ratsek StopФото 28. Вид на ледник Ак-Сай с С (с З плеча пика Учитель) и пики Ак-Тоо, Трезубец, Теке-Тор и
Бокс./ Photo 28. Ak-Sai Glacier view from N (From the western shoulder Uchitel Peak) and Ak-Too,
Trezubets, Teke-Tor, Boks Peaks.
22Фото 29. Пик Бокс с пика Комсомолец./ Photo 29. Boks and Komsomolets Peaks.

Фото 30. Вид с ССЗ на ледник Ак-Сай./ Photo 30. Ak-Sai Glacier view from NNW

23Фото 31 и 32. Хижина Ак-Сай на стоянке Рацека./ Photo 31 and 32. Ak-Sai Hut on the Ratsek stop.

Фото 32/Photo 32.
24Фото 33. Ледники Учитель и Наука. Пики Семенова- Тянь-Щанского и Корона./ Photo 33. Uchitel
and Nauka Glaciers. Semenova T-Sh and Korona Peaks.

Фото 34. Ледник Ак-Сай вид с СЗ./ Photo 34. Ak-Sai Glasier view from NW.
25

Фото 35. Ледники Ак-Сай и Корона. Пики Скрябина, Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, Корона,Изыскатель./ Photo 35. Ak-Sai and Korona Glaciers. Skriabina, Semenova T-Sh, Korona, Izyskatel Peaks.

Фото 36. Пик Семенова-Тянь-Шанского, справа пик Корона. На переднем плане гребень между
пиками Учитель и Байчичикей./ Photo 36. Semenova T-Sh Peak,right Korona Peak. Foreground ridge
between Uchitel and Baichichikey Peaks.
26Фото 37. Ледник Наука. Пики Ак-тоо и Теке-тор, на переднем плане пик Рацека. Вид с ССВ./ Photo
37. Nauka Glacier. Ak-Too and Teke-Tor Peaks, on the foreground Ratsek Peak. View from NNW.

Фото 38. Пики Бокс и Перо. Вид с С./ Photo 38. Boks and Pero Peaks. View from N.

27

Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan
Short Description and photo exposition of the route and tactics ofascending the Lenin Peak via Razdelnaya summit

By Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guideLenin Peak (7,134m) is one of easiest of the World peaks over 7000m. It’s situated in
Zaalaisky Range of Pamir mountains on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.
There is in biggest City of the region Osh International Airport. There is a 290 km road fromOsh City to the Base Camp (BC) in Achiktash region. It goes via Osh – Gulcha village –Taldyk pass – Sary–Tash village – Kashka-Suu village – Achiktash district. 255 km of 290 are
paved highway and 35 km is gravel road. Travel time by car is about 5-7 hours.
At 2018 is Anniversary jubilee of 90 years first ascent. At 2018 July will be held by
Kyrgyz Alpine Club Mountaineering Festival consecrate of the event .
Route description. (Fig.1 and 2)
BC. 3600m – ABCamp, 4300m.
It is possible to get from BC to Lukovaya polyana (onion glade) by foot or by car (6 km).
From Lukovaya Glade the trail goes southwest along the rocky ridge up to thePuteshestvennikov pass (Travellers’ pass). The ascent takes about 1 – 1.5h. Further the trail
goes downhill for 15-20 min and then for about 30-60 min it goes along the same ridge with aslight climb up to the crossing point. The crossing of the river is usually not a problem in themorning when the water level is not high and it is possible to cross by jumping over thestones. However, in the hot afternoon the water level is increasing and river crossing canbecome very difficult and dangerous. After the river the trail follows for 1.5 – 2 h on themoraines till ABCamp. In total it takes about 3-5 hours to get from BC till ABC.

Fic. 1. Route schema on Lenin Peak from N through Razdelnaia Peak (6148m).

1

Fig 2. Orographical map of Lenin Glacier area.
АВС, 4300m – Camp 1 (С1), 5200m.
The trail to Camp 1 first goes in direction to the centre of the northern slope of Leninpeak then up to Lenin glacier and follows up to the beginning of ascent. This part of theglacier and moraines is rather flat. There are some scours and cracks which can be easily
avoided. It takes about 45-60 min from ABC to the beginning of the ascent.
The ascent follows icy northern slopes covered with ice with the angle of 15º -30º which
at some parts become 40º. There are some deep wide crevasses which can be traversed.
Narrow cracks can be jumped over or crossed by the snow bridges. After this part of the trail
the path goes along the slope into syncline (5000m) and further along the slope in southwest
and west direction into C1. Starting from the ascent and up to C1 it is necessary to proceed
in rope team. The ascent time is 5-9 hours.

2C1 (5200m) – C2, Razdelnaia (6148m)
From C1 the ascent goes to the left of rocks up to the shoulder of the range to
Razdelnaia. The steepness of the slope is 15º-30º. C2 is situated on the left side in 100
meters from the Razdelnaya summit. The ascent takes up to 4-7 hours.
С2 (Razdelnaia). 6148m – the Lenin peak, 7134 m – С2.
Taking the climbers have good acclimatization it usually takes 1 day to hike from C1 up
to the summit and back. First there is a short descent to the saddle between Razdelnaya andC3 of Lenin peak range. The ascent goes from the ridge up the snowy slope with occasional
access to the rocks and narrow flat ridge up to the summit. To guarantee the successful
ascent usually C3 is set up here at the altitude of 6400m. Further the trail takes up the ridgeto the narrow 100m long ascent with 20º-30º steepness called “the knife”.
It is compulsory to use harness at this stage. Follow the ridge up to the pre-summit
plateau (6900-7000m) and continue up to the summit along the flat snowy slopes and scree.
Tour in the shape of Lenin bust is located a little bit lower of the summit, which is 100 m tosoutheast. The descent follows the acsent trail. It is strongly recommended for ascent to start
off from C2 as early as possible, not later than 5 am. The time of ascent and descent is 10-14
hours.
Ascent tactics
Technically the route is not difficult, but summiting depends on the choice of tactics.
Among the main difficulties and hazards are the altitude, crevasses, avalanches and badweather. Proper acclimatization becomes of the main significance. Climbing experience of
the Lenin peak proves that the most appropriate acclimatization is 2 goes with 1-2 nights in
C1 and C2 and descend to the BC for good rest.
The ascent during acclimatization should be consecutive to the increasing altitude(Fig.3). Acclimatization hikes should start very early – before 5 am. Start from C2 to summit
is recommended don’t later 3 AM.
Acclimatization is often combined with transporting and setting up of intermediate
camps. If mountaineers lack climbing experience at the altitude it is strongly recommended to
go on acclimatization climbs with experienced mountain guides or instructors. Also if climbers
do not feel confident in their strength and experience it is advised to set up additional camp at
the altitude of 6400m.

3

Below are principal versions of ascent diagrams. Its, of coarse, could be corrected, but
in any case is recommended to keep acclimatisation with two climbing. Also, is
recommended to foresee 1-3 days for bad weather.

Fig 3. Versions of ascent diagrams.
SafetyAmong the technical skills ensuring safety there are command of the language andskills on eliminating and minimizing different hazardous factors of the ascent. These are thefollowing: 1) ice crevasses from ABC to C1 which require skills of climbing in rope team on
the glaciers, crossing snow bridges over the crevasses, conducting search and rescue withdisposed equipment and skills on self-rescue from crevasses; 2) skills of identifying
avalanche hazard, crossing of the avalanche-prone slopes, search in avalanche, skills on
operating avalanche trackers; 3) transportation of the injured person using disposed
equipment; 4) first aid skills.
For ensuring the effective search and rescue operation it is necessary to register withthe relevant rescue company (www.rescue.centralasia.kg) at least 1 month before theclimbing and also possess the proper insurance policy (up to EUR30000) covering possible
rescue works.

4

Photo exposition

Photo 1. Lenin Peak. View from Base Camp Achiktash.

Photo 2. Lenin Peak in the evening.

5

Photo 3. Base Camp (3600м)Photo 4. Mess room in BC.

6

Photo 5. Lenin Peak. View from Puteshestvennikov Pass

Photo 6. Here is started track to Lenin Peak.

7

Photo 7. Тrack to Puteshestvennikov Pass.

Photo 8. Climbing track on Puteshestvennikov Pass.

8

Photo 9 . Тrack on South side of Puteshestvennikov Pass.

Photo 10 . Тrack on South side of Puteshestvennikov Pass.

9

Photo 11. After river crossing track up on moraine Lenin Glacier. Morning time it ispossible to cross rive by stones, but afternoon, when water is came up crossing
possible through ford or by horses.

Photo 12. Track to ABC along Lenin Glacier morane.

10

Photo 13. Track to ABC along Lenin Glacier moraine.

Photo 14. Pack transport from BC to ABC.

11

Photo 15. ABC camp (4200m).

Photo 16. Mess rooms (yourts) (left and right), kitchen and store tent (in centre) in АВС.

12

Photo 17 . Kitchen in ABC

Photo 18. View of Lenin Peak from ABC.

13

Photo 19. Upper reaches of Lenin Glacier in front, behind track to C1.

Photo 20. Beginning of rout.

14

Photo 21. Track to “friypan”.

Photo 22. Way round of crevasses by avalanche.

15

Photo 23. Track to “frypan”.

Photo 24. Track at beginning of “frypan”.

16

Photo 25. Crevasses crossing on the way to C1.

Photo 26. Track to “frypan”.

17

Photo 27. “Frypan”

Photo 28. View from C1 to “frypan” and Lenin Peak North slopes. There are avalanche
coming to “frypan”.

18

Photo 29. “Frypan”, behind C1 and shoulder of Razdelnauya Peak.

19

Photo 30. C1.

Photo 31. Coming up to Pazdelnaya shoulder. Behind is C1.

20

Photo 32. Coming up to Pazdelnaya shoulder.

Photo 33. Track to Razdelnaia.

21

Photo 34. Razdelnaia shoulder.

Photo 35. Track to Razdelnaia (right). Saddle between Razdelnaya and Lenin Peak ridge.

22

Photo 36. Track before Razdelnaia.

Photo 37. View to Lenin Peak from C2.

23

Photo 38, C2

Photo 39. C2. View from Lenin Peak ridge.

24

Photo 40. Night start to Lenin Peak summit from C2.

Photo 41. Lenin Peak ridge.

25

Photo 42. Lenin Peak ridge before summit.

Photo 43. Ridge before the summit.

26

Photo 44. Last meters before the summit.

Photo 45. The summit of Lenin Peak.

27

Photo 46. View to Kommunizm (7495) and Korgenevskaya (7105) Peaks from Lenin Peaksummit.

Photo 47 Author on a descent from Lenin Peak.

28