ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS
Issue No.17, January 2018

Page 2~11

1. Feature Article
First Ascent of K7 West (6615m) Southwest Ridge
First traverse from Badal Peak to K7 West

Katsutaka Yokoyama

2. Peru 2017 New Ascents (Spanish version)
Several notable records in Cordillera Blanca

Page 12~24
Antonio Bohorquez

3. Zanskar, J & K Himalaya
Success in climbing unnamed peak
4.

Gangkhar Puensum 7570m
Who may challenge the unclimbed peak?

5. Festival 2018 Lenin peak 7134m
The 90th anniversary of the first ascent1

Page25~31
Japanese Alpine Club Students
Page32~42
Tom Nakamura
Page43~53
Kyrgyz Alpine ClubKATSUTAKA YOKOYAMAFirst Ascent of K7 West (6615m) Southwest Ridge
First traverse from South Face of Badal Peak to K7 West― “Sun Patch Spur” ED+ /5.11c R, A2, M5, 90°2300m―(August 5 to 10, 2017 – rope fixing on the lower rock wall on August 2)
To Badal Peak via New Route:
We, Katsutaka Yokoyama and Takaaki Nagato reached in three days after 35
pitches rock climbing, rope-scale 1,000m mixed climbing with continuous pitches
including four times rappelling.
Unclimbed ridge to K7 West:
After simultaneous climbing of rope-scale 1,700m and two times rappelling, we
joined Slovenian’s 2012 northwest face route. From here snow ridge of 200m highled us to the summit of K7 West. We stood atop soon after 9:00am on the August 8,
the fifth day of climbing. Some 20 times rappelling on the northwest face took us to
the glacier. We returned to base camp on before noon of the sixth day of climbing.
In summer of 2014 Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto and I attempted a traverse fromunclimbed Badal Peak (ca. 6100m) to K7 West (6615m). Badal Peak is located on theright bank of the Charakusa Glacier in the eastern part of Karakoram Range ofPakistan. Although we made the first ascent of Badal Peak in four days climbing, we
had to resign to traverse to K7 West. In 2017, Yusuke Sato became one of the members
for the second visit to the Charakusa Glacier. Masumoto and Sato had an eye on the bigwall climbing surrounding the Glacier. Nagato and I again challenged and could gain
positive yields after five days intensive climbing. Maps and pictures follow.

1

2

3

K7 West viewed from Beatrice

Nagato climbing 9th pitch (5.10c)4Second day, Nagato climbing10th pitch (simulclimbing)

Nagato climbing 24 th pitch (5.7R simulclimbing)5

Third day, second rappelling down

6

Nagato following just beneath of Badal Peak

7

Forth day, Yokoyama ascending complicated ridge
8Forth day, Nagato following ridge. Badal Peak seen behind

9

Yokoyama traversing huge serac just beneath the summit plateau

10

ANTONIO (SEVI) BOHORQUEZ

Peru 2017 Nuevas Ascensions (New Ascents)
Cordillera Blanca

Chacraraju Este (6001m), cara E, nueva ruta (East face, new route)
Del 14 al 15 de julio de 2017 los canadienses Alik Berg y Quentin Lindfield Roberts
abrieron en lacara E del Chacraraju Este, con estilo alpino, una via de dificultad (M6,
5.10/6a, 90°) que han nombrado ≪The devil’s reach around≫, la cuarta* que alcanza lacima por esa cara y por primera vez con escalada libre. Berg y Roberts habian escalado
primero el Quitaraju (6036m o 6040m) y el Alpamayo (5947m), como aclimatacion, luego
regresaron a Huaraz y descansaron dos dias.
1Despues fueron al Chacraraju Este (6001m), conocido tambien como Nevado deHuaripampa porque esta sobre la aldea y la quebrada con este mismo nombre.
Alcanzaron la cima Este del Chacraraju por la parte mas directa y proxima al centro dela cara oriental. Esta nueva ruta cruza la ruta francesa de 1963 y la ruta eslovena de1999 en la vira (franja inclinada) previa al ultimo muro rocoso. * El intento de Kozjek yKresal de 1993 termino a unos 250 m de la cima. Files attached and captions
1) Chacraraju_este Roberts en la travesia clave, a traves del segundo muro rocoso.
Poto Berg

2) Chacraraju_este Roberts bajo el muro rocoso principal, el primer dia de escalada.

Foto Berg22) Chacraraju_este Berg en el corredor/canal de hielo (goulotte) de salida.

Foto Roberts
3) Chacraraju_este Roberts en el largo clave del muro rocoso principal.

Foto Berg34) Chacraraju_este_cara E line Ruta de Berg y Roberts, Foto Q. Lindfield Roberts

Nevado Hualcan (6125m), cara N, nueva ruta (North face, new route)
Los dias 28 y 29 de julio de 2017 el guia vasco-peruano Aritza Monasterio y el
canadiense Alik Berg abrieron la posible primera via de la cara norte del Nevado
Hualcan, era una de las ultimas paredes virgenes de la Cordillera Blanca de los Andesdel Peru.
Monasterio y Berg viajaron, el 25 de julio de 2017, desde Huaraz en el autobus que sube
por Carhuaz al pasaje de Ulta (Punta Olimpica) y desciende hacia la Quebrada Putaca.
Ellos dejaron el autobus en la curva donde empieza la quebrada Cancaraca grande,
subieron por esta y acamparon a unos 4200m en un costado de la morrena lateral norte.
El segundo dia acamparon en el glaciar, a unos 5000m, cerca de la pared pero lo
suficiente lejos para evitar las avalanchas y caidas de rocas.
Dedicamron la tercera jornada a observar la cara norte del Nevado Hualcan y elegir lalinea definitiva, orientada ligeramente al nornoroeste. Resulto ser la linea que
Monasterio tenia prevista desde hacia tiempo, la mas logica y menos peligrosa para
escalar. El cuarto dia escalaron hasta vivaquear en la pared a unos 5850m-5900m, al
pie del muro rocoso/mixto superior. El quinto dia salieron de la pared, alcanzaron la
cumbre (Cima Este, 6125m), descendieron hasta cerca de los 6075m y vivaquearon en elplateau cimero. La sexta y ultima jornada completaron la travesia de la montana:4

descendieron por la vertiente sur, bajaron a la laguna 513, llegaron a la poblacion de
Hualcan y regresaron a Huaraz. Nombraron su via, ≪Nadie sabe nada≫, que tiene 1000
metros de desnivel y dificultad general ED1 M6 85° VI. Al descender por la cara sur
completaron lo que ellos han llamado una ≪travesia integral con estilo andino integro≫.
1) andesinfo Hualcan_aprox_monasterio_berg
Recorrido de Monasterio y Berg desde Carhuaz, linea de color rojo. Los puntos por la
quebrada Cancaraca grande indican el ascenso aproximado hasta la cumbre (cima Este
6125 m) del Nevado Hualcan. Base cartografica IGN del Peru. Map Tono Rodriguez ySevi Bohorquez

52) monasterio_aritza_Hualcan_cara_n_linea
Escalada de Monasterio y Berg, orientada al NNE, en la cara N del Nevado Hualcan(cima Este 6125 m), sobre la cabecera de la quebrada Cancaraca Grande. Los circulos decolor azul marcan cada vivac. Foto y linea Aritza Monasterio3) monasterio_aritza hielo_berg, Berg en los primeros corredores de hielo en la mitad
inferior de la pared. Foto Aritza Monasterio

64) monasterio_aritza_hielo_monasterio
Monasterio en los corredores de hielo en la mitad inferior de la pared. Foto Alik Berg5) monasterio_aritza_hielo_monasterio, Monasterio en el penultimo largo antes delvivac al pie del muro superior. Foto Alik Berg76) monasterio_aritza_roca_berg, Berg en el primer largo del muro superior, el segundo
dia de escalada. Foto Aritza Monasterio87) monasterio_aritza_hielo_monasterio
Monasterio en la travesia mixta (hielo-roca) del muro superior de la cara norte delNevado Hualcan, el Segundo dia de escalada. Foto Alik Berg8) monasterio_aritza_mixto_berg, Berg en la travesia mixta, pasaje clave, del murosuperior, el segundo dia de escalada. Foto Aritza Monasterio99) monasterio_aritza_cima_monasterio
Monasterio asciende por el lomo somital del Nevado Hualcan hacia su cumbre (cima
Este, 6125 m), al atardecer del segundo dia de escalada. Foto Alik Berg

Nevado Huandoy (6395m), cara ONO, posible variante de la ruta Suiza(possible variation of Switzerland route)
Nathan Heald (USA, reside en Peru) y Yjeguel Camasa (Peru) viajaron el 17 de octubre
de 2017 desde Huaraz hasta la quebrada Paron, subieron por la ladera NO a laguna
Huandoy (ca. 4750m), depositaron aqui una parte de su material y bajaron a la lagunade Paron (ca. 4150m) para dormir.
Al dia siguiente volvieron a subir con el material restante, cargaron en sus mochilas el
depositado junto a la laguna Huandoy la tarde anterior y continuaron en direccion NO
por la morrena lateral izquierda de la laguna. Llegaron al campo morrena (ca. 5200m)
cercano a la base del contrafuerte rocoso del lado izquierdo de la cara NO. Camasa
sentia molestias porque le cayo una piedra dias atras mientras ascendia al Tocllaraju,
asi que decidio esperar a su companero en este campamento.
Este mismo dia, a las 22:15 horas, Heald cruzo el glaciar hacia la derecha (direccion SO)
por debajo del contrafuerte y de los seracs de la base de la cara NO. Llego mas alla delpie de la costilla rocosa que separa las caras NO y ONO. Una vez bajo la cara ONO
cruzo la rimaya, escalo la pendiente de hielo (60°-70°) para cruzar por el lado izquierdo
de la barrera de seracs situada debajo del collado entre la antecima del Huandoy Nortey la cima del Huandoy Oeste. Superada esta barrera, Heald escalo ligeramente en
diagonal hacia la derecha. Los ultimos 300m fue por hielo cristalino duro hasta la arista
10SO, que alcanzo a unos 6100m. Ascendio por esta arista (ruta Schatz-Reiss, 1959)
con unos unos 50° de inclinacion hasta la antecima. Continuo en direccion NE (rutaHein-Schneider, 1932) hasta la cumbre (6395m), que alcanzo a las 8:30 horas del 19 deoctubre con cielo depejado, sin viento y temperatura baja. Heald calculo que su escaladatiene 1200m, dificultad TD y anoto al pie de un corto video de su ascension en Youtube:≪In 1985 a Mexican team of 10 climbers climbed the only route on the NW face ofHuandoy, over 3 weeks and with 1,200 meters of fixed rope. On October 19th, 2017 I dida variation to their route in 19 hours round trip from moraine camp.≫ En realidad esvariacion de la ruta Schatz-Reiss de 1959. En el descenso, por la misma ruta,
Heald utilizo veintidos abalakovs y abandono tres estacas para nieve, llevaba una
cuerda de 7,5 mm de 60 metros y tres tornillos para hielo. Tardo nueve horas en volver
al campo morrena, llego sobre las 17:00 horas.
Files attached and captions
sevi_peru_huandoy_AAE_2017.jpg Nevados Huandoy Norte y Huandoy
Oeste desde el campo base del Cerro Paron. Entre circulos: (257) ruta eslovena 1987,(256) ruta norteamericana 1971, (258) ruta norteamericana 1954, (263) ruta USA-UK.
Las lineas de puntos azules marcan el recorrido hipotetico (varias posibilidades) suizo
de 1959 y la de puntos rojos el ascenso de Heald de 2017. Foto del libro Cordillera

Blanca, Escaladas, Parte Norte. Murcia: Andes Info, [2004].

11

Pucarashta (5450m), cara S, posible nueva ruta o variacion (Possible newroute or variation)
El Nevado Pucarashta (5450m) esta situado al NE del Alpamayo y al SO del Pucahirca
Oeste. Esther Simon, Ruth Craven y Oriol Baro, miembros de la expedicion del Equipo
Femenino de Alpinismo espanol que viajo de Huaraz a Cashapampa y acampo (ca.
4350m) en la Quebrada Santa Cruz, escalaron la cara sur hasta la cima Central del
Pucarashta por ≪terreno mixto exigente≫ (600m MD+) el 18 de junio de 2017. Este
itinerario parece coincidir en algun tramo, en mitad de la pared, con la via que abrieron
Phil Moorey, Mick Davie y Steve Di Ponio con un vivac el 16 de junio de 1991. Como el
trazado de esta via de 1991 publicado en 1995 en la guia de David M. Sharman es poco
preciso, resulta dificil determinar con exactitud los pasajes comunes del recorrido de2017. Sharman nombro la cima Pucarashta Central, para distinguirla de sus dos cimas
adyacentes (Oeste y Este), y le otorgo 5650m. Moorey cayo el 20 de junio de 1991cuando
rapelaba (AAJ 1992) en la cara sur del Pucarashta Este (ca. 5500 m) y murio al otro dia
mientras lo evacuaban.
1) baro_pucarashta_linea_andesinfo Recorrido de Simon, Crave y Baro en la cara surdel Pucarashta Central sobre la quebrada Santa Cruz. Foto Simon, Crave, Baro122) baro_pucarashta_topo_20170618. El itinerario de Ester Simon, Ruth Crave y Oriol
Baro en la cara sur del Pucarashta. Topo Simon, Crave, Baro

13

1

Japanese Alpine Club Students’ Team
Success in climbing the unnamed 6,020m peak (L8)
Zanskar, J&K Himalaya
On August 31st, 2017, JAC (Japanese Alpine Club) Students’ Team succeededin climbing the unnamed 6,020m peak (L8) in the J&K Himalaya. This peak is
included in IMF Routes for 104 Open Peak List. The members are college students inJapan, Ryota Takanezawa (21), Yuu Nishida (21), Gakushi Eguchi (21) and Satoru
Miyachi (23). We left Japan on August 16th and traveled from Leh to Singo La throughKarzok, Sarchu and Darcha by car. Then we move to BC in the right branch of Lenak
Nala through Thangso Village by trekking.
Although we planned to climb the east ridge close to our BC because it looked
gentle and wide in a photograph, it was found to have full of loose rocks and steep
pinnacles. So we changed the route to the north ridge, a gentle snow ridge. We had togo beyond the east ridge from the BC and climb down the glacier to reach the northridge. The problem is that the route was not clear due to dusting snow and fog.
We made two camps (5300m and 5400m) to the summit. On August 28th, we climbed up
and down many banks of moraine to the camp1 with total 150kg of climbing
equipment, food and shelter. Then it took two days to take them to camp2 beyond theeast ridge. Climbing down the glacier no one has ever been was full of risk andexcitement. It was not until we get there that we know how it was like there. We paid
great attention to crevasses and falling rocks every moment. Even though it wassnowing and fogging every day, the feeling of getting close to the summit made us
excited. While altitude sickness sometimes slowed our pace, we managed to makecamp2 on the glacier.
On August 31st, we challenged the summit. It was cloudy but not windy. The
summit was covered with light cloud and we sometimes saw sunshine. We left camp2
at 7:30. After crossing two streams on the glacier, we climbed mixed gentle slope ofscree and snow to a col of the north ridge. Points of crampons were engaged well andwe went up on a good pace. Just before reaching the ridge, we had to climb 5m ice walland set up fix rope with an anchor of ice screws and snow pickets. On the ridge wefound the glacier on the west side of the ridge collapsed and big crevasse open near thesummit. But good news was that gentle ridge with fresh snow was extended straightly
to the peak.
We moved forward with close attention to cornice on the east side. We four
climbed out of breath due to high altitude and finally reached the summit at 12:25.
There we knew that L8 has twin peaks and the north peak, which we climb, was thehigher. The ridge between the two is very narrow and loose. We could enjoy an
outstanding view of mountain rages over 6000m on the horizon. From the peak tocamp2 it took only one and a half hour and we all shared the joy of getting back safely.
We had a rest on the next day and went back to BC on September 2nd.
Our overall route itself is not very difficult because the slope was gentle on
average. But we are really satisfied with our climb because we carried all equipment,
food and shelter from BC by ourselves, found out new route and reached the peak no
one has ever been. We appreciate all kind supports to our expedition.
1

2

2

3

L8 from the south (BC)the right branch of Lenak Nala3

4

the east ridge of L8

L8 from the north (camp2)

4

5

our route to the summit (north ridge)

the glacier in the north side of L8
5

6

small ice wall just below the north ridge

the north ridge

6

7

gentle snow ridge to the summit

at the top of L8 (6020m)

7TAMOTSU NAKAMURA

Gangkhar Puensum 7570m
Who may challenge the highest unclimbed peak in the world?
Overview
Gangkhar Puensum is not only the highest mountain in Bhutan but remains thehighest unclimbed summit in the world with an elevation of 7,570 meters and aprominence of over 3,000 meters on the border with Tibet, China.
Note: A report of the 1986 British expedition gives the mountain's height as 24,770 feetand states that Gangkhar Puensum [newest Bhutanese spelling] is completely inside
Bhutan. Its altitude was first measured in 1922 and, until recent years, maps of theregion were not at all accurate and the mountain had been shown in different locations
and with markedly different heights. On this article, however, a height 7570 metersthat the Japanese Alpine Club applies in tern based on the Chinese sources.

(Left) Gangkhar Puensum 7570m (Right) Liangkang Kangri 7534m north face1

2

Gangkhar Puensum (above) south face, Bhutan side (below) north face Tibetan side3

Gangkahr Puensum 7570m south ridge (central ridge)

4According to a comprehensive “Concise Mountain Name Dictionary” (Ichiro Yoshizawa,
Sanseido Publishers, Tokyo 1984) South Summit of Gangkhar Puenzum 6760 was
climbed on September 15, 1973 by K. I. Kumar from an Indo-Bhutan joint expedition led
by D. N. Tankha. But this peak seems only a hump in extension of the central ridge.
After Bhutan was opened for mountaineering in 1983 there were a couple of expeditions
which were unsuccessful in summit attempts or deadlocked before departure. They are:(1) The Himalayan Association of Japan in 1985
(2) The British party in 1986
(3) The Japanese Alpine Club’s failed plan in 1998 and ascent of a subsidiary peak
Liangkang Kangri in 1999.
Since 1994 climbing of mountains in Bhutan higher than 6,000 meters has beenprohibited out of respect for local spiritual beliefs and since 2003 mountaineering has
been forbidden completely. Therefore Gankar Punsum is keeping its unique status as
the highest unclimbed peak in the greater range of the world.

Liangkang Kangri 7534m (Gangkhar Puensum North)
In 1998 the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) expedition obtained a permit from the China
Mountaineering Association to climb the mountain and organized a powerful team ofthe expedition, but this plan was not realized. As I cannot disclose an inside story
behind the sudden cancellation, I write only that the reason why the permit waswithdrawn was because of a political issue with Bhutan government. Instead, in 1999,
the Japanese Alpine Club sent a team to Tibet and they successfully scaled a 7,535
meters subsidiary peak, Liangkang Kangri (also known as Gangkhar Puensum North).
But I regret that Liangkang Kangri is not an outstanding summit and does not look an
independent peak. Unlike most maps, the expedition's report shows this summit as
being in Tibet and the Tibet-Bhutan border is shown crossing the summit of Gangkhar
Puensum described as "the highest peak in Bhutan," at 7,570 meters, whereas Russian
topo map of indicates Gangkhar Puensum North on the border. There is a contradiction.

5

6

JAC 1999 Expedition

7

JAC 1999 Expedition

On the 5th May, 1999, five members led by Kiyohiko Suzuki left the final camp (C3) at
6,920m before dawn and ascended the north ridge. When they were climbing the lastsnow wall, Gankar Punsun north face suddenly came into their sight to the south. On
the 9th, four members atop Liangkang Kangri. The expedition departed from Lhasa anddrove to the last village Yojitsongtso where a caravan with 75 horses was organized on
April 18. BC was set up at 4,750m, and C1 April 25, C2 April 30, C3 May 8 were placedin succession as shown on the Sketch Map of Gankar Punsum as attached.

Ambitious Assault 1985 by the Himalayan Association of Japan
This is Japanese proud witness of pioneering challenge on the awful but fascinating
Central Ridge of Gangkhar Punsum, a contact line straightly going up to the summit
sharing Southwest and South Faces, though they had to stop climbing on the way since
one member unfortunately suffered from lung dropsy and rescued by a helicopter.
One of the most distinguished Himalayan climbers in Japan, Yoshio Ogata played an
important role as a deputy leader of the expedition with ten members. They started acaravan on August 22 and approached to the Central Ridge from southwest side. They
set up BC at 5,050m on the 30th. ABC was set up at 5,450m on September 2. C1 was
set up at 6,250m on September 12 and C2 was placed on the 24th successively.
On the 28th, Ogata party made route paving and pushed three pitches of fragile rocks
using artificial aids to the head of chateau. On the 19th, they fixed ropes for six pitcheson steep snow ridge to snow peak at 6,750m. From there treacherous knife-edged snow
ridge like the back of a dragon led to No. 2 rock walls zone. On the 29th, very difficult
pushes continued. They negotiated snow ridge like huge mushrooms with sheer drops tothe both sides. They further climbed up unsound rock tower and reached the foot of apinnacle where they deposited gear and supplies for the next day and returned to C2.
However, climbing suddenly ceased because of one member’s lung dropsy. The patient
was safely carried down to BC on October 2.
Visual materials must be better than literal expression. So I publish as many pictures
as pages are possibly allocated. All pictures other than Francois Pommerat in thischapter were those taken Yoshio Ogata.

8SW & S face of Gangkhar Punsum (left) and Kulha Kangri (right) – Francois Pommerat
9

Gangkhar Puensum south face seen from a point before reaching BC – Y. Ogata

Gangkhar Puesum soaring in the opposite side of glacier upstream Mandi Chu –Y. Ogata

10

Snow Dome and C2 looked down from rock wall zone to C2 & Snow Dome – Y. Ogata

Ridge “Back of dragon” beyond Snow Dome

11

Rock walls zone like chateau above

Lenin peak 7134m:
90 th anniversary of first ascent to Lenin peak
MOUNTAINEERING, NATURE AND CULTURE IN THE PAMIRS

Kyrgyz Alpine Club (KAC), Kyrgyz Mountain Guide
Association (KMGA) and local authority of Chon-Alai
district of the Osh region invite mountaineers, tourists
and mountain lovers to join the Mountaineering
Festival in the Pamir in 2018 the year of the 90th
anniversary of the famous first ascent to Lenin Peak.
KAC offers five different active programmes:
1. Trekking I short 8 days programme for acclimatized (at thealtitude of 3000-4000m) participants.
2. Trekking II is 13 days programme which includes acclimatization in the Tien-Shan mountains, then shortdomestic flight to Osh to continue programme. Trek from the Base Camp at Lenin Peak (3600m) to Advanced
Base Camp (4200m). This programme is suggested for not acclimatized participants or trekkers who have losttheir acclimatization. That is why the beginning of the programme includes acclimatization part.
3. Ascent to Razdelnaya Peak (6100m) is 14 days climbing programme to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). This
programme is elaborated for climbers who do not plan to climb to Lenin Peak, but prefer high altitude climbing.
4. Standard climbing programme takes 19 days including acclimatization for ascent to Lenin.
5. Fast climbing is 12 days climbing programme of ascent to Lenin Peak for climbers with current
acclimatization at the altitude 4500 m as minimum.
Festival will take place on July 28-29, 2018 in Achik-Tash canyon, Lenin Peak Base Camp.
Festival programme on July 29, 2018 includes: official greetings of state and regional administration,
Kyrgyz Alpine Club and Kyrgyz Guide Association representatives, welcome speech of famous climbers andveterans, National games, folklore performance and bards’ concert, handicraft fair, special memorial and galadinner.
Altitudes: 3700m (Base Camp) - 4200m (Advanced Base Camp) – 5300m (Camp 2) – 6100m (Camp 3) –Lenin Peak 7134m
Events: National games, performance of artists, climbing, trekking, skiing, hiking, horseback riding, parties,
etc.
Points of arrival in Kyrgyzstan: international airports in Osh and Bishkek.
Individual programmes are available by preliminary request.
Individual dates of arrival and departure can be scheduled by preliminary request
Price 2018:from USD 730 per person for Trekking I
from USD 1300 per person for Trekking IIfrom USD 850 per person for Climbing to Razdelnaya Peakfrom USD 900 per person for Standard climbing
from USD 775 per person for Fast Climbing

Appendix 1: Short description of Zaalay Range, Achik-Tash area, Lenin PeakAppendix 2: Orographic map of Achiktash region (Lenin Peak), Zaalaiskii Range

1

Appendix 3: Photo gallery
Fixed dates of the active programmes:
Trekking I
July 26 –Aug2,
2018\Days

Trekking II
July 21-August 2,
2018\Days

Day
Of
week

Date

Sat

July 21

1

Sun

July 22

2

Mon

July 23

3

Tue

July 24

4

Wed

July 25

5

Thu

July 26 1 Arrival in Osh.

6

Fri

July 27 2 Achik-TashBase Camp
3700m.
July 28 3 Low altitude
hiking.

7

Sat

Climbing
July 27-Aug 14,
2018|Days

Fast Climbing
July 28 –Aug 8,
2018\Days

Arrival in
Bishkek.
Ala-Archa
Nature Park
2100m.
Ak-Sai Glacier
3300m.
Ak-Sai Glacier4500m.
Bishkek.
Domestic flight
to Osh.
Achik-Tash
1Base Camp
3700m.
Low altitude2
hiking.

Arrival in Osh. 1

Arrival in Osh.

Achik-TashBase Camp
3700m.
Festival
eventsCamp 1 - ABC
at 4200m.
ABC 4200m.

2

Achik-Tash Base 1
Camp 3700m.

6

ABC 4200m.

6

7Camp 2 at
5300m.
ABC 4200m.

7

Tue

Festival
eventsJuly 30 5 Camp 1 - ABC
at 4200m.
July 31 6 Base Camp.

Wed

Aug 1

Thu

Aug 2

Fri

Aug 3

8

Sat

Aug 4

9

Sun

Aug 5

10

Mon

Aug 6

11

Camp 29(5300m)Mt Razdelnaya 10
6100m
ABC 4200m.
11

Tue

Aug 7

12

Base Camp.

12

Wed

Aug 8

13

13

Thu

Aug 9

14

Transfer toOsh.
Departure.

Fri

Aug 1015SatAug 11

16Sun

Aug 1217

Arrival in Osh,transfer to
Achik-Tash BC
Festival
2 Festival
eventseventsCamp 1 - ABC at 3 Camp 1 - ABC at
4200m.
4200m.
ABC 4200m.
4 Camp 2 at
5300m.
Camp 2 at
5 Mt Razdelnaya
5300m.
(Camp 3) 6100m
ABC 4200m.
6 Camp 1 - ABC at
4200m.
Camp 2 at
7 Camp 1 - ABC at
5300m.
4200m.
Mt Razdelnaya 8 Camp 2 (5300m)(Camp 3) 6100m
ABC 4200m.
9 Mt Razdelnaya(Camp 3) 6100m
ABC 4200m.
10 Lenin Peak
7134m.Descen
t to 6100m.
Camp 2 at
11 Descent to BC
5300m.
Camp 3 at
12 BC – OSH,
6100m.
departure
Camp 4 at,
6400m
Lenin Peak
7134m.Descen
t to 6100m.
Camp 2 at 5300
or ABC 4200m.
Base Camp.

Mon

Aug 1318

Transfer to Osh.

Tue

Aug 1419

Departure.

Sun
Mon

2

July 29 4

7 Transfer toOsh.
8 Departure.

8

Easy climbing
July 27-August
9, 2018\Days

9
10
11
12
13

Festival
3
eventsCamp 1 - ABC 4
at 4200m.
Base Camp.
5
Osh. Flight toBishkek.
Departure.

3
4
5

8

14

Trekking I.
Brief itineraryDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Land transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp (BC), 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours).
Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC.
Day 3. Visit Climbers Memorial. Walks to Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”) – hiking at the low
altitude. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 5. Trek up to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 4200 m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 6. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 7. Land transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: breakfast in BC only
Day 8. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No.
Altitude. Osh 1005m – BC 3700m – ABC 4200m - BC 3700m - Osh 1005m
This trip is recommended for participants with acclimatization at the altitudes of at least 3000-4000m. For
climbers without acclimatization programme Trekking II is highly recommended.
Experience. Good level of physical training and acclimatization is required.
Equipment. Sleeping bag, light down jacket, windproof jacket and pants, warm mittens and gloves, warm hat
and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sunblock, trekking poles, headlamp and spare batteries, thermo
insulation flask (thermos) and mug, mat.
Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, BC and ABC, airport transfers in Osh and transfer Osh-BaseCamp-Osh, meals in BC and ABC, border permit, visa support and registration (if requered), guide service andconsultation, radio communication within BC and ABC, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities
of BC and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilets, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels tocharge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).
Price does not include: Luggage delivery by porters or horses, Meals in Osh, Medical insurance

Trekking II.
Brief itineraryDay 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park (2100 m), hiking in the gorge, visit mountaineering
memorial. Active acclimatisation. Overnight in the park at the altitude 2100m. Meals: No.
Day 3. Climbing to Ratsek camp located close to Ak-Sai Glacier (3300 m, 4-5 hours).
Overnight in Ak-Sai mountain hut. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Hiking to the area of Ak-Sai Glacier, easy climbing up to the altitude 4500 m. Meals: Full Board.
Overnight in Ak-Sai mountain hut (3300m).
Day 5. Descent to Ala-Archa park (2-3 hours) and drive to Bishkek (40 km).
Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: breakfast
Day 6. Domestic flight to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 7. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp, 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours).
Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC.
Day 8. Visit Climbers Memorial. Trek to Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”) – hiking at the low altitudes.
Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 9. Festival events. Overnight in Camp tents. Meals: Full Board
Day 10. Trek up to Advanced Base Camp at 4200 m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 11. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 12. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in the Hotel or family run Guest House.
Meals: Breakfast in BC only
Day 13. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No.

3

Altitude. From day 6 to day 13 the programme is similar to Trekking I. The beginning of the prodramme(Days 1-5) is acclimatisation. Bishkek (700 m) - Ala-Archa (2100 m) – Ak-Sai (3300 m) – Ak-Sai (4000-4500m)- Ala-Archa (2100 m) – Bishkek (700 m).
The other days of the program include: Osh 1005m – Base Camp 3700m – Advanced Base Camp 4200m(ABC) – Base Camp 3700m - Osh 1005m. This trip is recommended for participants without or with low level ofacclimatization at the altitude up to 4000 m.
Experience. Good health and physically fit.
Equipment. Sleeping bag, light down jacket, windproof jacket and pants, warm mittens and gloves, cover
mittens, warm hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun block, trekking poles, headlamp and sparebatteries, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug, mat.
Price includes: Accommodation in Bishkek, Ala-Archa National Park, Ak-Sai Glaseier, Osh town, Base Camp
(BC) and Advanced Base Camp (ABC), airport transfers in Bishkek and Osh, domestic air fareBishkek-Osh-Bishkek, transfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in BC and ABC, border permit, visa support andregistration (if required), radio communication within BC and ABC, registration in local Mountain Rescue
Service, guide service and consultation, facilities at BC and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilet, storage
service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).
Price does not include: Luggage delivery by porters or horses in mountain camps, meals in Bishkek and Osh,medical insurance

Climbing to Razdelnaya Peak 6148m
Brief itineraryDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Land transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp, 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive).
Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in the BC.
Day 3. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 4. Trek to the ABC at 4200m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 5. Acclimatization trekking in the camp area. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 6. Acclimatization trekking in the camp area. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 7. Climbing up to the Camp 2 at 5300m. Own tents and meals.
Day 8. Descent to ABC at 4200m. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: lunch and dinner in ABC
Day 9. Climbing up to the Camp 2 at 5300m. No meals and accommodation. Own tents and meals.
Day 10. Ascent to Mt Razdelnaya 6100 m and back to Camp 2. No meals and accommodation. Own tents andmeals.
Day 11. Descent to ABC at 4200m. Overnight in camp tents. Meals: lunch and dinner in ABC
Day 12. Descent to the BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Day 13. Land transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: Breakfast in BC only
Day 14. Departure from Osh. Meals: No.
Altitude. Osh 1005 m – BC 3700 m – ABC 4200 m – Camp 2 5300m – Razdelnaya Peak 6100 m.
Experience. Climbing/trekking experience at the altitude of 5000m. Good skills in the crampons and ice axe
usage when you movie on firn and ice slopes. Experience of moving along open and closed glacier with rope.
Skills of moving along vertical and horizontal fixed ropes.
Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket
and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses andsun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope,
harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner,
thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug. High altitude tent team, avalanche radio buoy.
Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, BC and ABC, transfers in Osh airport and Osh-BC-Osh, meals in the
BC (3 days) and in the ABC (5 days), border permit, visa support and registration (if needed), radio
communication within BC, ABC and high camps, registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC

4and ABC (summer shower in BC, outdoor toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge
batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC and ABC).
Price does not include: Mountain guide service for ascent, luggage delivery by porters or horses inmountain camps, meals in Bishkek, Osh, and in high altitude camps (5300m-6400m-6100m), gas canisters tocook in high altitude camps (5300m-6400m-6100m), medical insurance

Lenin Peak standard climbing (19 days)
Brief itineraryDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Overnight in a hotel or guest house. Meals: No
Day 2. Overland transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp, 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive).
Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Lunch and Dinner in BC
Day 3. Festival events. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Full Board
Days 4-16. Acclimatization. Ascent.
Tents and meals are provided in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (5 days).
No meals and accommodation in higher altitude camps. Own tent and meals should be provided forhigher camps (53006100m-6400mm).
Day 17. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Dinner in BC.
Day 18. Overland transfer to Osh. Overnight in a hotel or family run guest house. Meals: Breakfast in BC.
Day 19. Departure from Osh. Overnight: No. Meals: No
Route description: Classic route via Razdelnaya Peak
From Achik-Tash base camp (3700 m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion
Meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass
(4100 m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km
from Base Camp). Walk for 5 km along the Glacier moraine to an altitude of about 4200 m where Advanced
Base Camp sites are located on the moraine near the head of the Glacier (approximate average time from BaseCamp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours).
From Camp 1 (ABC 4200 m), cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka"(frying pan!). This area is crevassed and it is highly advisable for people to use crampons, ropes and move
together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3-4 people. Fixed ropes are placed sometimes
across difficult or dangerous crevassed sections, but the safety of these can not always be depended on(especially as ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat). At the top of the steep section begins
the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300 m(approximate average time from ABC to Camp 2 is 6-8 hours). This section can be exhausting in good weather
due to the heat. By this reason early start is highly recommended.
From Camp 2 (5300 m) ascend above the camp to gain the ridge (steep ascend). Follow the ridge up
to an altitude of 6100m where Camp 3 can be set up in the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude ofabout 6100 m (approximate average time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours). This part of the ascent is asnow slog with few crevasses. Rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along theridge in the event of bad weather or emergency.
From Camp 3 (6100 m) ascend along the western ridge of Lenin Peak. The first part of this ridge canbe mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish a Camp 4 if
needed). Above this plateau there is a short steepest snow slope of 20 degrees where fixed rope and ice axe
may be necessary to use, pass this section with care, particularly during the descent. Further above there is arocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau
at 7134 m. Approximate average return time from Camp 3 to summit is 10-15 hours. The route to the summit
can be subject to extreme strong winds which can also be incredibly cold.
The programme includes enough time for acclimatization. However, extra days of meals and accommodationin the mountain camps for acclimatization can be included by request.
Altitudes: Osh 1005 m – Base Camp 3700 m – Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp) at 4200 m – Camp 2 at 5300
m – Camp 3 at 6100 m – Camp 4 at 6400 m - Lenin Peak 7134 m
Experience & mountaineering skills: Good health and physically fit, climbing experience at the altitude6000 m is required. Good skills in the crampons and ice axe usage when you movie on firn and ice slopes.

5

Experience of moving along open and closed glacier, crevasses with rope. Skills of moving along vertical,
incline and horizontal fixed ropes using jumar (ascender). Descent on fixed ropes using belay device.
Experience of freight carry at the altitude.
Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket
and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses andsun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope,
harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner,
thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug, . High altitude tent, avalanche radio buoy.
Price includes: Accommodation in Osh, Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, airport transfers in Osh, landtransfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (5 days), borderpermit, visa support and registration (if required), radio communication within BC, ABC and high camps,
registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in Base Camp, outdoor
toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC
and ABC).
Price does not include: Mountain guide service for ascent, luggage delivery by porters or horses, meals in
Bishkek, Osh, en-route and in high altitude camps (5300m-6400m-6100m), gas to cook in high altitude camps(5300m-6400m-6100m), medical insurance

Lenin Peak fast climbing (12 days)
Brief itineraryDay 1. Arrival in Osh. Transfer to Achik-Tash BC 3700 m (280 km, 6-7 hours drive). Meals: dinner
Day 2. Festival events Preparation for ascent. Overnight in tent camp. Meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner inBCDays 3-10. Acclimatization. Ascent.
Tents and meals are provided in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days).
No meals and accommodation in higher altitude camps. Own tent and meals should be provided
for higher camps (5300-6100m-6400mm).
Day 11. Descent to BC. Overnight in tent camp.
Day 12. Overland transfer to Osh. Departure from Osh. Meals: breakfast
Route description: Classic route via Razdelnaya Peak like for Standard Climbing programme.
The programme is elaborated for acclimatized trained climbers who has limit of holiday. However, extra daysof meals and accommodation in the mountain camps for acclimatization can be included by request.
Altitude. Osh 1005 m – Base Camp 3700 m – Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp) at 4200 m – Camp 2 at 5300 m– Camp 3 at 6100 m – Camp 4 at 6400 m - Lenin Peak 7134 m
Experience & mountaineering skills: Good health and physically fit, acclimatization at the altitude 4500 m
as minimum, climbing experience at the altitude 6000 m is required. Good skills in the crampons and ice axe
usage when you movie on firn and ice slopes. Experience of moving along open and closed glacier, crevasses
with rope. Skills of moving along vertical, incline and horizontal fixed ropes using jumar (ascender). Descent on
fixed ropes using belay device. Experience of freight carry at the altitude.
Equipment. Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket
and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses andsun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope,
harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner,
thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug, . High altitude tent, avalanche radio buoy.
Price includes: Accommodation in Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days), airport transfers
in Osh, transfer Osh-Base Camp-Osh, meals in the Base Camp (3 days) and Advanced Base Camp (3 days),border permit, visa support and registration (if required), radio communication within BC, ABC and high camps,

6

registration in local Mountain Rescue Service, facilities of BC and ABC (summer shower in Base Camp, outdoor
toilet, storage service, electricity supply and solar panels to charge batteries, mess tent or dining yurt in BC
and ABC).
Price does not include: Mountain guide service for ascent, luggage delivery by porters or horses, meals in
Bishkek, Osh, en-route and in high altitude camps (5300m-6400m-6100m), gas to cook in high altitude camps(5300m-6400m-6100m), medical insurance.

Mountain and trekking guides. All Festival participants will be accompanied by English speaking guide to
ABC (4200m). Easy Climbing and Climbing programs over ABC are estimated for experienced climbers who canclimb without guides. If participants are not experienced enough it is highly recommended to hire professional
mountain guide. In Kyrgyzstan there are guides trained by UIAGM-IFMGA standards. Kyrgyzstan is candidate
country to UIAGM-IFMGA and has own Mountain Guide School with certified mountain guides andguides-aspirants. Also there are experienced guides certified according to Kyrgyz national standard which isvery similar to UIAGM-IFMGA standards.
Formalities and Logistics. KAC provides all necessary formalities and services which is necessary to realize
the programs. Participants have to bring their own high altitude tents for climbing and dehydrated food forcamps higher than ABC. KAC can provide high altitude food, rent of equipment and gas cylinders by
preliminary request. Single accommodation is possible by advance booking. Services which are not included in
the programmes discription, but may be required by participants, can be arranged by KAC by preliminary
request (local air tickets, local accommodation, additional transfers, transfers from Bishkek or Almaty to Osh,etc.)
Visas and permits. The following formalities for the Festival programs are required: visas and permits toboundary zone (Lenin Peak area). The new legislation on visa regulations was issued by the Kyrgyz Parliamentin 2012. According the law citizens of 44 developed countries may visit Kyrgyzstan during 60 days without visa
http://itmc.travel/en/visa-regulations
How to get to Osh and Bishkek. There are several international air companies which operates in Bishkek,
such as Turkish Airlines, Aeroflot, Air Astana, Uzbekistan Airlines, S7 Airlines, Ural Airlines, Flydubai, China
Southern and Tajikistan Airlines. There are direct flights from Russia to Osh provided by S7. Also there areseveral flights a day every day from Bishkek provided by local airlines. As option tourists may arrive to Bishkek
via Almaty (Kazakhstan). More international airlines operate in Almaty. It is possible to arrange land transferfrom Almaty to Bishkek (the distance is 250 km). It takes 4 hours of driving plus about one hour for borderformalities.
International and domestic flights. Participants have to book their international flights by themselves.
KAC provides domestic flight only for Trekking II program. Domestic flights for other programmes can bearranged by request at extra cost.
Food. Meals in the cities. En-route and during climbing of Easy Climbing and Climbing programs over ABC
have to be arranged by participants. KAC can help to buy high altitude food and gas cylinders by preliminary
request. Any special meal requirements (for vegetarian, allergy, etc.) should be sent to KAC office preliminary,
before arrival in Kyrgyzstan.
Climate & Weather. The weather is very changeable in Kyrgyz mountain area. Tourists should be preparedfor fair share of sunshine, clouds, fog, wind, rain and snow. Daytime temperatures vary from +25ºC to -25ºC
at night in the high camps.
Insurance and rescue service. It is extremely important for Festival participants to have travel medical
insurance for their trip to Kyrgyz mountains. Please ensure that insurance company is aware of participant
itinerary and insurance is valid for planned activities, including mountain search & rescue, helicopter
evacuation from the mountain area and medical expenses. Recommended amount for insurance policy isover 30000 EUR. It is not possible to arrange such insurance in Kyrgyzstan. Kyrgyz Alpine Club will require a
copy of the insurance before participants arrival to Kyrgyzstan. Rescue search and evacuation is provided by“Kyrgyz Rescue service” http://www.rescue.centralasia.kg.

7

Participation statement. All participants of climbing and trekking programmes have to understand all
possible risks and impacts of such kind of activities (injury or death). Participants have to be responsible for
their own activities.

For more information and booking please contact us at:
KYRGYZ ALPINE CLUB
1A Molodaya Gvardia Street, Bishkek 720010, Kyrgyzstan
Tel.: +996-312-651404;
Fax: +996-312-650747
E-mail: alpclub-kg@mail.ru www.kac.centralasia.kg
Appendix 1. Achicktash canyon of Zaalaiski Range – Lenin Peak area
The area is located within the Chon-Alaisky region of Osh oblast. It’s one of the most famous climbing region in
the world. The most easy accessed peak over 7000m is located here - Lenin Peak, 7,134m.
The region in situated in the area of northern slopes of the Zaalaiski Range on the border with Tadjikistan, only
30 km far from Kashkasu village. Slopes and mountain tops are covered with snow and ice due to extreme
glaciations. Elevation is up to 3,000m. Routes are snow or snow-ice and not difficult technically. This
circumstance gives great opportunity for high-altitude climbing to people even without special technical skills.
The climate is much milder than of the Tien-Shan. The average temperature of July-August is +10°С in the
Achiktash base camp. Temperature can reach -30°С on the route. Precipitation is greatest in the period ofApril - beginning of June. The least number of precipitation is in the period of August-September. Mountainroad goes from Osh town over Taldyk pass (3,615m) right to the base camp. Total distance is 220 km. Ascent
to Lenin Peak can be done not only from Achiktash, but also from Kamansuu neighboring Gorge throughRazdelnaya summit.
There are a lot of expeditions, climbing base camps of mountaineers from all over the world at Achiktash, but
Kamansuu Gorge is rear visited place in spite of the fact that difficulty level of ascent from Kamansuu is thesame, route more safe and there is possibility to reach the gorge by transport.
Lenin Peak was discovered in 1871 by the expedition of Fedchenko and was called Kaufman Peak (he wasgovernor-general of Turkestanskyi region of the Russian Empire at that time). The first ascent was done by the
climbers of the joint Russian-German-Austrian expedition: Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider in1928 and Lenin name was given to the summit.
Tajik government changed summit name to Abu-ibn-Sina in 2006, but Kyrgyz government (the summit islocated at the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan) decided to keep previous name. International community
calls summit Lenin Peak.
There are 18 known routes to the summit of Lenin Peak: 9 from the north and 9 from south from Tajikistan.
The most popular itinerary starts from the north (Achiktash canyon) via Razdelnay peak (6,148m). There arealso several peaks below 7,000m in the area, but these summits are not as popular because of the altitude.

8

Appendix 2. Orographic map of Achiktash region (Lenin Peak), Zaalaiskii Range

9

Peaks1.

Lenin Peak, 7134 m

2.

Razdelnaya Peak, 6148m Achik-Tash

3.

Krylenko Peak, 6788m

4.

19 Siezd KPSS Peak, 5920m

5.

Dzerzhinskogo Peak

6.

Moskva-Peking Peak

7.

Edinstva Peak, 6673m

8.

Oktiabrskii Peak, 6780m

Glaciers
A. Lenina Gl.
B. Tash-Kunghey Gl.
C. Kaman Gl.
D. Korzhenevskogo Gl.
E. Dzerzhinskogo Gl.
F. Saukdara Malaia Gl.
G. Saukdara Bolshaia Gl.
H. Oktiabrskii Gl.
RiversAchik-Tash
Camps
Base Camp Achik-Tash 3700m
Advanced Base Camp 4
Appendix 3. Photo gallery.

1011