PIUSERIA® AMC

Solves the problem (skin residue) of amino acid surfactants◆Feature・Excellent washability enables to prevent itching and dandruff
by reducing washing residue.
・Bacteriostatic effect against dandruff-causing bacteria
・Improve thickness and foam quality in amino acid-based shampoos
・Biodegradability
・RSPO certificate was acquired (Spring 2023)◆Component
INCI Name

Evaporated
residue

Appearance

Sodium Lauraminopropionate

29%

Pale yellow liquid◆Benefits & our approach
Relationships between surfactant remaining on the skin and it’s CMC

Surfactant remaining on the skin and CMC

◆Mechanisms
It is easier to rinse off, so hair can be washed with less water!
Amino-acid surfactants➡Easy to leave residue

Amino-acid surfactants+ Piuseria AMC➡Easy to rins-off

Dandruff
ItchingAmount of surfactant residue (μg/cm2）◆Application data(for hair)
4.0

Effect of suppressing the amount of surfactant residue

3.5

■
■

3.0
2.5

70% less

2.0
1.5
1.00.5

Tape stripping test

0.0

Anionic surfactant
Amphoteric surfactant

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate―Thickening cosmetic formulations
10000

65% less

Viscosity (mPa・s)

20
Residual amount of triolein（μg/cm2）

PIUSERIA® AMC

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Enhance the cleaning ability of serum

10Amphoteric surfactant
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

1000100100■ Sodium Laureth Sulfate + Cocamidopropyl Betaine■ Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate + Cocamidopropyl Betaine■ Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate + PIUSERIA® AMC

1Anionic
surfactant
Amphotericsurfactant

Disodium Cocoyl
Glutamate
CocamidopropylBetaine

PIUSERIA®
AMC

Sodium Methyl
Cocoyl Taurate
CocamidopropylBetaine

PIUSERIA®
AMC

5.0

Growth inhibition test of Malassezia restricta.
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate＋
Piuseria AMC

Relative(/Initial value)

4.0

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate＋
Cocamidopropyl Betaine

3.0
2.0
1.00.0678Days

91011

Combined with PIUSERIA AMC, the growth of the bacteria is inhibited.

The Results of Monitoring Test about Shampoo Formulation Using PIUSERIA® AMC
Improved Itchiness?

Reduced Dandruff?

8%

8%

8%

84%

92%
Yes

Neutral

Implemented at SOUKEN Co., Ltd.
Questionnaire-based survey on differences before andafter 2 weeks of continuous use
Subjects: 13 Japanese males and females aged from 20 to 61 years,who are generally interested in scalp dandruff and itchingNo

YesNeutralNo◆Formula(shampoo)

This shampoo is gentle on the scalp and hair and has a rich foam.

INCI NameWater
A Polyquaternium-22
Polyquaternium-7
Disodium EDTA
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
B Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Lauraminopropionate

Sanyo’s Product

LEBON HC-30W
PIUSERIAAMC®

Cocamide Methyl MEA
PEG-160 SorbitanTriisostearate
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
CDiisopropyl Sebacate
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, waterDCitric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide◆Safety test

wt%
41.00
1.25
1.00
0.05
2.00
20.70
10.80
10.00
6.90
3.00
2.00
1.00
0.10
0.20

Total

✓Acute Eye Irritation test(OECD TG492): Safety✓24-hour occlusion human patch test: Safety✓RIPT: Safety(suitable)(suitable)
100.00<Method>①A: After uniformly dissolving at room temperature,
Heat to 80 ° C②Heat B and C to 80°C.
③Add B gradually while stirring A.
④Add C to the mixture of A+B and stir.
⑤Add D to the mixture of A+B+C and stir.
⑥Cool mixture to 25°C.
⑦Adjust pH to 6 ± 0.1.
⑧Stir uniformly, then defoam.

◆Application data(for face & body)
PIUSERIA® AMC is expected to have bacteriostatic effects on C. acnes and C. albicans
Although Piuceria is not as strong as a fungicide, it can be added to the base formulation to reduce theamount of fungicide (supporting the antibacterial effect).

■MIC* of C.acnes and C. albicanceC.acnes*MIC：minimum inhibitory concentration(ppm)

C.albicance(ppm)

Piuseri AMC

78-156

Piuseria AMC

313625

Methylparaben

2500

Methylparaben

1000

Isopropylmethylphenol

63-313

Propylparaben

250

Phenoxyethanol

NonIsopropyl methylphenol

500

Triclosan

1－4

Benzalkonium chloride

200

Hinokitiol

31

Salicylic acid

>1000

Ethanol≧500－1000

Dehydroacetic acid<500

Sodium dehydroacetate<500

The using of Piuseria AMC in a facial wash
can be expected to prevent C.acnes.

The using of Piuseria AMC in body soaps
and other products can be expected toprevent C.albicance and its associated irritation.

◆Formulas(for face)
Formulation for Face Wash ～Foaming Pump type～

Formulation for Face Wash ～Cream type～

It's an amino acid-based pump foam cleansing formula that isgentle on the skin, with a fine, perfect lather. The combination of PIUSERIA AMC
is also expected to have bacteriostatic properties
against C.acnes and C.albicance.

It's an amino acid-based facial cleansing cream that isgentle on the skin with a thorough wash. The combination ofPIUSERIA AMC is also expected to have bacteriostatic properties
against C.acnes and C.albicance.

INCI Name
wt％
Water
12.95
Disodium EDTA
0.05
A Glycerin
10.00
Sorbitol, Water
8.00
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Water
30.00
Sodium Lauraminopropionate, Water
10.00
B Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Water
10.00
Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate, Water
10.00
Polyquaternium-7, Water, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid
0.40
Polyquaternium-39, Water, Sodium Benzoate
0.40
Citric Acid, Water
7.50
C
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin,
0.20
Water
Total
100.00INCI Name
wt％Acrylates Copolymer（31%aq）
6.00
2 Water
16.40
3 Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Water
50.00
4 Glycerin
5.00
5 Sodium Lauraminopropionate, Water
6.90
6 Petrolatum
10.00
7 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
4.00
8 Polyquaternium-7, Water, Sodium Benzoate
1.00
9 Phenoxyethanol
0.50
10 Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, 0.20
Water
Total
100.00<Process>③ Cool A+B to 40°C.
①Heat and mix A at 60°C.
② Add B to A and mix and stir. ④ Add C to the A+B mixture and mix uniformly.

1＜Process＞
1) Mix 1 and 2 (Propeller mixer=about 150).
2) Add 3 to 1) and mix (Propeller mixer=about 150).
3) Add 4 and 5 to 2), mix and stir, and heat to 70°C.
4) Add 7 to 6, and heat to 70°C and mix.
5) Add 4) to 3) and mix (Propeller mixer=about 150).
6) Cool 5) to 40°C.
7) Add 8, 9, and 10 to 6) and mix uniformly.

◆IMPORTANT
The Company is not liable for commercialization, including intellectual property rights owned by third parties, regarding the posting of
this information. In addition, our company prohibits unauthorized reproduction and reproduction of the contents described in thisdocument. The contents of this document may be changed at our convenience. Before handling these products, refer to the Safety Datasheet for recommended protective equipment, and detailed precautionary and hazards information.

For detailed information, please contact below.
https://www.sanyo-chemical.co.jp/eng/◆Activity Report

World's first approach for preventing itching and dandruff
by reducing the amount of surfactant residue on the skin
Mika Morita1; Yukimi Murakami1
1Beauty & Personal Care Dept., Sanyo Chemical Industries,Ltd., Kyoto, Japan

Introduction
Background

Cosmetics are composed of water, oil, and surfactants. However, because of surfactants frequentphysical contact with skin, it is necessary to pay sufficient attention to their effects on skin,such as irritation and itchiness.
Okasaka et al. [1] have been reported that anionic surfactants reduce the skin barrier function, notonly sulfate-based and soap-based, but also glutamic acid-based. However, only few studies haveexamined the adsorption of surfactants to the stratum corneum in terms of physical properties suchas ionic properties and critical micelle concentration (CMC) has not yet been comprehensivelyinvestigated.

High adsorption ofanionic surfactants to thestratum corneum of the skinLowering the skin barrier
functionObjective & hypothesis

Increasing transmission ofsurfactants and other materials
into skinIn this study, we investigated a completely new materials and methods.
We hypothesized that the adsorption of anionic surfactants on the stratum corneum should not onlydepend on the ionic properties of the anionic surfactant, but also on the CMC of the entire detergent.
In addition, since itching of the scalp requires consideration of the effect on bacterial (Malasseziarestricta) activity, these factors were also examined.

irritation, itchinessMaterials & Methods
Samples

Measurement of CMC (critical micelle concentration)
The surface tension of the aqueous solution containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants was measured.
Using a pendant drop type surface tension measuring device (manufactured by Kyowa Surfaces Science Co., Ltd.).

Calculation of Molecular Occupied Area
Experiments were conducted with reference to the literature by Endo et al. [6] Using the plot of surface tension versus concentration during
CMC measurement, the maximum surface excess concentration (Γmax) was calculated by Gibbs' adsorption isotherm expressed in thefollowing equation (1). Further, the molecular occupied area A (Å^2) was further calculated by the following equation (2).
Γmax = (-dγ/dlnC)max / RT (1)
A= 1 / NΓmax(2)
In the formula, γ is the surface tension, R is the gas constant, T is the absolute temperature, C is the surfactant concentration, and N is theAvogadro number.

Keratin powder adsorption amount
Keratin powder adsorption amount was measured based on Nakama et al. [2].

Skin irritation
Skin irritation was measured based on OECD TG439 [3] and cell viability was analyzed in vitro.

MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration)
Colonies of each bacterium cultivated on agar medium were inoculated onto liquid medium, and then incubated in a stepwise diluted
surfactant solution. The presence or absence of bacterial growth was determined by the turbidity after incubation.

Results & Discussion
1. Adsorption index

Keratin powder
adsorption
amount∝AES

A completely new method

Adsorption index

AGApparent molecularweight of surfactant✔500 Dalton rule is considered
important for percutaneous
penetration into the stratumcorneum [4].

The percutaneous permeability<500 : Improved(common surfactant monomer)>500 : Suppressed(forming micelles)✔ CMC : The concentration that
surfactants forms micelles.

Conclusions

5.5, Unchangeable

AGAMA

Unchangeable

Anionicity of anionicsurfactant at skin pH✔Surfactants with strong anionicproperties, such as AES, are known tobe highly irritating and to be adsorbed
to the stratum corneum in large
amounts [5].
✔The Henderson-Hasselbarchequation(*) was transformed to define
the strength of anionicity of anionicsurfactant
at skin pH (5.5).

MolecularOccupied
Area

AMT

CMC of the entire detergent × (skin pH – pKa of surfactant）
Changeable depending on
the combination of surfactants

2. Lower CMC by reducing steric hindranceAmpholytic
surfactant-Molecular Occupied Area

MolecularOccuqied Area

AG +CAPB

Log([A-]/[HA]) = pH - pKa✔In detergents, Anionic and amphoteric surfactants aregenerally used in combination.

SmallCMCHighLow

Adsorption index

HighLow

Keratin powder
adsorption
amountHighLow

CAPB

0.93

377

LAP

0.05

40.4

4. MICSkin irritation test
Ampholytic
surfactant

CAPB

Malassezia
restricta
1500

LAP

200

antifungal
agent

Fluconazole

4

Ketoconazole

0.06

MIC(ppm)

Tested with a human 3D cultured epidermis model

Anionic/Ampholytic surfactant= 0.5%/0.5%

Irritation

AG/CAPB

Positive

AG/LAP

Negative✔By changing the combination of surfactants,
the CMC of the entire detergent can lower.

Molecular
Occupied
Area (Å^2)

AG + LAP

Large

3. Decreasing irritation(*) pH = pKa + Log([A-]/[HA])

CMC(%)✔ LAP has a propionic acid structure(CH2CH2COOH) that is not found in othersurfactants. Propionic acid is known to haveantibacterial properties.

We investigated a completely new method, the adsorption index defined as "anionicity of anionic surfactant at skin pH x CMC of detergent“.
Focusing on steric hindrance, reducing the molecular occupied area as a method to lower the adsorption index, we examined the use of sodium lauraminopropionate (LAP),a type of amphoteric surfactant. LAP effectively lowered CMC and also reduced skin irritation compared to Cocamidepropyl Betaine (CAPB).
LAP also has antimicrobial properties, which may inhibit dandruff-derived scalp itchiness.

Reducing the amount of adsorbed surfactants in the stratum corneum can suppress barrier disruption and consequently alleviate skin irritation.
This study should contribute to the development of safe and secure cosmetics.
1. Okasaka M, et al (2018) Evaluation of anionic surfactants effects on the skin barrier function based on skin permeability. PHARMACEUTICAL DEVELOPMENT AND TECHNOLOGY. 24:99-104.
2. Nakama Y, Yamaguchi M, et al (1992) Adsorption of Cationic Surfactants to Keratin Powder. Japan Oil Chemists' Society. 41:336-340.
3. OECD.(2015) OECD GUIDELINES FOR THE TESTING OF CHEMICALS. Test No. 439: In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method. OECD Publishing; p. 1–26.
4. Bos JD, Meinardi MM (2000) The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Expetimental Dermatology. 9:165-169.
5. Miyazaki K, et al (1989) Anionic surfactants as Detergents for Scalp and Hair. Japan Oil Chemists' Society. 38:297-305.

◆IMPORTANT
The Company is not liable for commercialization, including intellectual property rights owned by third parties, regarding the posting of
thisinformation.
Inforaddition,
our company
unauthorized
reproduction
reproductionof prohibitedthe contents
this holder and the SEQC.
©2023
Copyright by Author
the Sociedad Españolade Químicosprohibits
Cosméticos (SEQC)’s
33rd IFSCC Congress.
Unauthorizedand
reproduction
and/or distribution
without priordescribed
written consent inof copyrightdocument. The contents of this document may be changed at our convenience. Before handling these products, refer to the Safety Data
sheet for recommended protective equipment, and detailed precautionary and hazards information.

For detailed information, please contact below.
https://www.sanyo-chemical.co.jp/eng/