Finalcc4llkittenbooklet.qxp_CC4l kitten 16/07/2021 12:23 Page 1

Life stage guide to tocaring for your new kitten

Make life’s first steps
the right ones byusing advice fromveterinary surgeons
and behaviourists

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International Cat Care is a charity founded in 1958 by a small group of very
passionate cat lovers, who were compelled to do something about the dismal lackof information about cat health and wellbeing. Over 60 years later, we are stillworking hard to improve the health and wellbeing of all cats everywhere, owned
and unowned, working towards a cat friendly world where each cat is treated with
understanding compassion and respect.

icatcare.org

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Introduction
Meet the authors
Dr Nathalie Dowgray BVSc MRCVSMANZCVS(Feline) PGDip IAWEL PhD
Nathalie is a veterinary surgeon
specialising in feline medicine.
She heads International Cat
Care's veterinary department.

Dr Sarah Ellis BSc(Hons) PGDip PhD
Sarah is International Cat
Care’s Head of Cat Mental
Wellbeing and Behaviour andone of the charity’s feline
behavioural specialists.

Linda Ryan BSc(Hons) DipAVN KPA-CTP
VTS(Behaviour, Oncology) RVN CCAB
Linda is a veterinary technician
specialist in behaviour, and is
an International Cat Care Feline
Wellbeing Panel member.

Claire Bessant BSc(Hons)
Claire is previous Chief
Executive of International Cat
Care and an author of many
books on cat care.

Published by International Cat Care, a charity and company limited byguarantee registered in England, UK. International Cat Care, Place
Farm, Tisbury, Wiltshire SP3 6LW, UK.
Charity # 1117342 − Company # 06002684© International Cat Care 2021. All rights reserved.

C

ongratulations — you are theowner of a cute little bundle ofenergy and curiosity, which will quickly
grow into a wonderful cat that could
be with you for the next 15 years (ormore). What you do now could lay thefoundations for your cat’s health andmental wellbeing, an excellent andrewarding relationship, and years ofenjoyment with your cat.
This booklet aims to give you
information for your kitten’s first six
months of life. This is a very importanttime — the equivalent of a child’s first
10 years.

Contents

Collecting your new kitten
Somewhere to feel safe
Somewhere to toilet
Something to eat
Something to play withHandling your kitten
Meeting the resident cat
Meeting the resident dog
Grooming your kitten
Socialising your kitten
Keeping your kitten safe
Letting your kitten go outside
Keeping your kitten healthy
Choosing a vet
Vaccinating your kitten
Worming your kitten
Treating your kitten for fleas
Cleaning your kitten’s teeth
Neutering your kitten
Identifying your kitten
Insuring your kitten
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4
5
6
8
10
11
14
16
17
18
19
20
21
21
22
22
23
23
24
25
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Collecting your kittenYou will need to bring your kitten home
in a carrier, no matter how short thejourney, as this will keep it safe and secure.
Choosing the right type of carrier andhelping your kitten to associate the carrier
with positive experiences will make life
much easier for you and your cat. It will
help ensure future journeys, such as to theveterinary clinic or boarding cattery, arestress-free.
• A safe and comfortable carrier should
be used for all forms of travel (in many
countries it is not legal to have a catloose in the car).
• Solid, strong plastic carriers arerecommended as they are robust,protect the cat if the carrier is knocked
or dropped, and are escape-proof.
Cardboard or temporary plastic carriers
may not even last for one journey if they
get wet or if a very determined cat tries
to scratch its way out. Carriers madefrom woven products such as willow andrattan are extremely difficult to clean if
your cat toilets during the journey, andfabric carriers that open and close withzips can easily be opened by adetermined cat.
• Carriers that allow the kitten to walkstraight in are ideal for training your cat
to voluntarily enter and exit the carrier.
Placing a treat in the carrier canencourage cats to explore inside.
Repeating and rewarding the kitten
each time will help the kitten toassociate the carrier with good things.
For those kittens that are a little moretentative, a carrier that also opens at the
top is ideal to gently place and remove
the kitten via the top opening.

2

How to carry and support a cat carrier.

• All carriers should come apart easily, sothat you can take the top completely off.
This allows a veterinary surgeon gentle
access to examine your cat in the baseof its carrier — this is a cat friendly
approach to veterinary visits.
• While it may be tempting to buy a small
carrier when your kitten is little,
remember he or she will grow rapidly.
Investing in a carrier that is big enoughfor your cat to stand up in and turnaround as an adult is important.
If you buy an adult sized carrier from thestart, your kitten can be made to feel
more secure by reducing the internal
space during transport using arolled-up towel or bedding.

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When you travel• Put something warm, soft andfamiliar in the carrier for the kitten to
cuddle up in, for example a blanket it
has been sleeping on.
• Spray some Feliway Classic (catsynthetic pheromone) into the carrier
before you travel to help the kitten to
feel more secure (spray 20 minutes ormore before travel to allow thealcohol in the spray to evaporate).
See feliway.com for more information.
• Place the basket on somethingwaterproof in the car in case toileting
occurs during travel.
• Drape a familiar-smelling towel orblanket over the carrier in order tohelp the kitten feel more secure. Thisis particularly important for the more
open plastic-coated wire carriers.
Ensure the carrier is adequately
ventilated on long journeys. This towelor blanket can also be pre-sprayedwith Feliway Classic at least 20
minutes before being placed over the
carrier.
• When travelling, secure the carrier sothat its base is as level as possible
and does not move around. For car
travel, a seat belt can be placed
through the top handle of the carrier
and/or around the carrier.
• Speak to your kitten in a gentle voice.
• If possible, depending on your modeof travel, provide small and tasty food
rewards in the carrier so your kitten

Using soft bedding and feline
pheromones in a cat carrier canhelp make the kitten feel moresecure.
associates being in and travelling in
the carrier with a positive experience.
You can also put some toys in the
carrier which will act as additional
rewards.
• When carrying your kitten in its carrier,
do not hold it by the handle alone, as
the carrier may tilt and swing giving
the kitten a feeling of unsteadiness.
Instead, support the carrier fromunderneath, holding it securely
against your body, keep it level andminimise movement.
If you have more than one cat, theyshould always be transported inseparate carriers, and never forced
into one carrier together.

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Somewhere to feel safe

K

ittens may feel a little vulnerable when
you first bring them to your home, as
this will be a totally new environment, withmany unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells.
They will also have been separated fromeverything that was familiar to them up
until this point. Providing safe, quiet areas
for the kitten to hide in when it needs to will
help your kitten settle into its new home.

• If you have other pets keep them out of
the room until the kitten has settled in andyou are ready to make controlled careful
introductions (see pages 11 and 14).

• Choose a quiet room where the kitten
can be kept for the first week or two toadjust gradually to its new surroundings.
This will give your kitten a safe placefrom which to explore the rest of its
home when it is ready. It also helps tomaintain successful toileting in the litter
tray and avoids the risk of toileting
elsewhere in the house.

Somewhere to sleep• Choose a room without pot-plants orother hazards (see page 18).
• Plug in a Feliway diffuser 48 hours before
the kitten comes home. Use Feliway
Friends if you have no other cats or
Feliway Optimum if you already have acat(s) (see feliway.com).

• Over time, and under supervision, yourkitten can be gradually introduced to thewider home, ensuring it is physically safe,
calm and happy at all times.

It is important from day one to set theroutines that you intend to establish for the
future. Many owners feel that kittens need
to be close to them at night, particularly
when they first arrive, but this can set anundesirable precedent for nocturnal games
and excitement, and result in no sleep
whatsoever for you! Cats are naturally
active at dawn and dusk, but your kitten
can learn to adjust its sleeping patterns to
fit in with your lifestyle. There is nothingcruel in putting a kitten to bed in a cosy,
warm and secure environment in anotherroom until you wake in the morning.
• Provide a bed with high sides to give anadded feeling of security. This will also
help to keep out draughts. Be sure there
is a low front for easy access, and soft
and warm bedding inside (such as
fleece). A small cardboard box, cut downat the front, or an igloo-type bed which
the kitten can conceal itself in is ideal.
• If your kitten has something comfortingfrom its previous home, such as bedding
or a soft toy, then put this in the bed, sothat the scent is familiar to it.

An example of a safe place for the kitten
to sleep in overnight.

4• Position the bed where the kitten has
easy access to it. As the kitten grows anduses the whole house, you can provide
more beds in favourite places.

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Somewhere to toilet

K

ittens learn where to toilet very quickly.
They will often have learned this fromtheir mother, and you simply need toprovide the litter tray and litter in an easily
accessible place and they willautomatically use it. If your kitten seems
unsure of where the tray is, is having
toileting accidents or it toileting in an
inappropriate location, place it in the tray
from time to time (usually after feeding or
waking up). For multi-cat households,
make sure the kitten always has a litter trayof its own. The general rule is to provide thesame number of litter trays as there arecats per household, plus an additional one.
Clean it regularly• Cats do not like using soiled litter trays,
which may cause them to avoid theirtray. Unclean trays can be a source of
infection, so the litter tray must be kept
clean and emptied regularly. Scoop out
solids (and urine if a clumping litter isused) at least once daily, and clean
thoroughly at least weekly or more
frequently, if necessary. Use hot water

Choice of litter tray and litter• Cats need an adequately sized tray sothey can move around. Ideally, it will be
one and half times the length of the catfrom nose to base of tail. Many
adult–sized trays have high sides and,
therefore, initially your kitten may needa lower sided tray to make getting inand out of it easier.
• Initially, you may want to use the same
type of litter as the kitten was using
previously, as it will recognise what it isfor.
• Make sure the litter is deep enough to
dig in — about 3 cm deep is ideal.
• Avoid scented litters as they can be offputting for the kitten, as can litter types
which are hard or sharp underfoot.
• Avoid disposable litter tray liners, aswell as ‘self-cleaning’ or automatedlitter trays, which may upset your kitten.
• As the kitten grows it may need a larger
litter tray and you may want to change
the litter.

An example of a low sided litter tray
suitable for kittens.

For more in-depth information
about litters and trays go to:
icatcare.org/advice/litter-trays

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with washing up liquid or a suitablecat-safe cleaning agent (correctlydiluted and rinsed out properly)
to clean the tray.
Some products, including, but notlimited to, phenolic disinfectants that go
cloudy in water, are toxic to cats. For
more information on safe disinfectantsfor cats go to: icatcare.org/keepingcats-safe-disinfectants• Each cat may have its own preferences,and some prefer different depths or touse separate trays for urinating anddefecating. Therefore, it is advisable tooffer two trays, in separate locations
within the kitten’s area. Litter trays with ashallow depth of litter may need to becleaned more regularly.

Site it carefully• The position of the litter tray is important.
Provide more than one tray to give thekitten choice. They should be locatedseparately where the kitten can easilyfind them. If your home is on more than
one floor, it is a good idea to have a trayon each floor so prevent toileting inplaces other than the tray.
• Position trays away from food and waterand busy thoroughfares, noisy
appliances (such as washing machines),
or where other cats, dogs or smallchildren are present or could interferewith them.
As your cat grows there are other things
to consider regarding placing of litter
tray. Find what to do and what to avoid
at: icatcare.org/advice/litter-trays

Something to eatW

hen you bring your kitten home it islikely to be around eight to 12 weeks
old (slightly older if it is a pedigree kitten)
and should be fully weaned.
If, for some reason, your kitten isyounger than eight weeks old andrequires bottle feeding, there isinformation to help you at:
icatcare.org/hand-rearing-kittens•

Kittens have small stomachs andhave to be fed little and often, likebabies.

• Kittens aged eight to 12 weeks need atleast four meals a day, kittens aged
three to six months need at least threemeals, and junior cats over six months
need at least two small meals. In the6catcare4life.org

wild, adult cats eat small (mouse sized!)
multiple meals over the day.
• Check the instructions on the foodpackaging for the correct amount tofeed. You can feed a meal at a time, or
provide some dry food on an ad lib (freeaccess) basis — it depends very muchon your lifestyle, what your kitten likes
and is used to, and if you have other catsin the house with certain feedingroutines and habits. It may be a goodidea to introduce your kitten to both wet
and dry food at a young age, so that it isfamiliar with and happy to eat both,which can be helpful later in life.
• Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning
they cannot thrive or survive without
meat in their diet. They are simply notdesigned to be vegetarians, and to feed

Finalcc4llkittenbooklet.qxp_CC4l kitten 16/07/2021 12:24 Page 9• When you first take your kitten home, try
to feed it on the same food it has beenused to, as long as it is on a suitablecomplete kitten diet. A sudden change of
diet, combined with the stress ofadapting to a new home, can cause
stomach upsets and diarrhoea.

Provide small kitten-sized food portions.
a diet without meat would result in
deficiencies and illness.
• Feed a good quality commercial kitten
food (it is very hard to get a home-madediet right for rapidly growing kittens).
• If the food is marked 'complete' it
contains everything the kitten needs tostay healthy. If it is marked'complementary' or ‘supplementary’, it
does not supply all the kitten needs andshould be fed with other foods.

If you need to change your kitten to a
new diet, do so gradually, over a periodof three to seven days. Start by initially
mixing in a small amount of the newfood, then gradually reducing the oldfood. For more information go to:
icatcare.org/advice/feeding-your-cator-kitten• Fresh clean drinking water should beavailable at all times. Water should beplaced away from food bowls (avoid‘double bowls’ that have food in one side
and water in the other), with at least one
other alternative water source in anotherlocation. Once the kitten has explored
the whole house, this could be on
another floor of the home.

Hazards of raw feeding
If the kitten has been fed a raw diet, thisshould be discontinued, and the kitten
should be started on a good quality
complete commercial kitten food. Raw
diets are not nutritionally complete forgrowing kittens.
Raw diets can also pose a risk to both
cat and human health. Raw meat canbe a source of diseases that can makeboth cats and people ill.

Provide a water source away from food.

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Something to play withP

laying with your kitten is very importantand kittens love to play.

• Toys need not be expensive. Rolled upballs of paper, empty cotton reels, pingpong balls and cardboard boxes are allideal and cost little.
• Be sure the toys you buy are safe andhave no small parts a kitten can swallow
or become trapped in.
• Kicking toys such as a stuffed toy or alarge stuffed sock are fun for cats thatlike to rake toys with their back legs while
grabbing them with their front claws,
sometimes also biting them.

It is good to offer kittens a variety of toys
to play with. This is a good kicking toy.

Toys that make a soft noise can be
attractive and fun to play with.
• Some toys (known as puzzle feeders) aredesigned to be filled with cat food andcan provide amusement and exercise forinquisitive kittens’ bodies and minds. Any
food consumed in this way should beconsidered part of the kitten’s daily foodallowance to avoid excessive weightgain. Feeding your kitten’s daily foodration, little and often, via puzzle feeders
will be fun for them, build confidence
and teach independence, as well as fulfil
the natural problem-solving behaviours
and exercise needs involved in frequenthunting and catching of prey (and it isentertaining for us to watch too!).

• Gentle noise (for example, a tinkling bell,
or a crackly centre, firmly concealed in atoy) may be attractive and fun. Takecare not to alarm cats with louder
noises.
• Laser pointers look fun, but kittens may
become frustrated at not being able tocatch something physical, and they may
cause damage to their eyes.

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Simple, home-made puzzle feeders canprovide lots of entertainment.

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Wand toys on the end of a stick or a stick and piece of string are a great way to playinteractively with your kitten and keep it away from hands and feet.
• Wand toys on the end of a stick or a stickthat has a feather or small item on theend, or at the end of a string or wire, area good choice, are easy to keep moving
and tend to maintain a kitten’s attention.
Such toys are interactive, requiring you
to move the wand about and they are a
fun way to engage with your kitten. Dueto their length, wand toys mean thatkittens play safely at a distance fromyou, and they are, therefore, a great way
of preventing kittens from swiping or
biting at hands.
Ensure that your kitten is not left alone
with wand toys that have lengths ofstring or elastic attached, as these may
get caught around the kitten’s neck orleg. These are for supervised humankitten play only! For more information
on play go to:
icatcare.org/advice/playing-withyour-cat
icatcare.org/at-home-with-your-catgames-to-play
icatcare.org/advice/puzzle-feeders

Hands are not toys
Do not let your kitten scratch, claw orbite hands or feet, even if your kitten
only does so in play. This may beperceived as fine or amusing when the
kitten is little, but as its ‘weapons’(claws and teeth) become larger andthe cat stronger, it can cause damage
and certainly pain. It is a habit that isbest avoided.
To prevent bad play habits, it isimportant to be prepared and readyto focus the cat onto toys before it
attempts to engage with hands orfeet. This is where it is useful to playwith toys at the end of rods, kicking
toys. or those which can be flicked orrolled away from you, or involve yourkitten playing in a self-directed way(such as puzzle feeders or foodtreasure hunts), particularly when it isin ‘high energy mode’.

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Handling your kitten

K

ittens are small and could be hurt byrough handling or if they are dropped.
Always support the whole kitten with two
hands as you pick it up (never pick it up by
the scruff of the neck). Place one handunder the kitten's bottom and the other
under the front legs. By holding the kitten
close to your body, you can make sure it
feels secure, and does not jump from yourarms. It is best to sit children on the floor tolearn to handle the kitten. Everyone wants
to cuddle a kitten when it first arrives, but
this can be a bit overwhelming, and thekitten will need time to rest and adjust to its
new environment.
Give young children limited supervised
contact initially to avoid the kitten being
over-handled. For more advice go to:
icatcare.org/advice/introducing-catsand-children

Always support the whole kitten with two
hands as you pick it up.

• During the first couple of days any
handling should, ideally, take place when
the kitten initiates it. Initial handlingshould comprise gentle stroking on thehead and face area and can beextended to gentle stroking down theback. If the kitten is comfortable with this,you can gently pick up your kitten to get
it used to being held.
• Handle the kitten frequently throughout
the day for short periods of time, rather
than providing continuous physicalcontact.
Initial handling should comprise gentle
stroking on the head and face area andcan be extended to gentle stroking down
the back.

10• Always pause after stroking to assess thekitten’s reaction. If it appears in any way
overwhelmed or uncomfortable, give thekitten a rest from any more stroking or
handling.

Finalcc4llkittenbooklet.qxp_CC4l kitten 16/07/2021 12:24 Page 13• Consider using the ‘five second rule’,
whereby you touch or handle your kitten
for five seconds (or less), then pause toassess whether the kitten is actively
enjoying it, and calmly soliciting more —in which case, try another five seconds.
If the kitten seems avoidant, or is in ahigh energy mood, stop! Give it timeand space to move away and calm
down, or play with a wand-type toy
instead.
• Even when enjoying the stroking, ensure
regular breaks for the kitten.
• Teach children that the kitten is not a toy
and how to recogise whether the kitten is
enjoying their attention or not.
• Every cat is an individual, and somekittens will enjoy handling more thanothers, so go at your kitten’s pace rather
than forcing interaction.

Building confidence
Once the kitten is settled, it should
ideally be handled by lots of different
types of people (young, old, big, small,male, female) but not all at once, forshort periods of time over several
weeks. This will help the kitten tocontinue learning to be comfortablearound humans in general, and thatpeople are friendly and not something
to fear. However, if your kitten does notappear to be actively and calmly
enjoying this, stop. If your kitten does
not perceive this to be a positive
interaction, too much exposure maylead to anxiety. In this case, check withyour vet to ensure good health. The
veterinary surgeon may arrange areferral to an appropriately qualified
positive reinforcement behaviour
professional or trainer.

Meeting a resident cat

First impressions matter! Successful
introductions of a new cat or kitten to ahousehold must be carefully undertaken.
Do not to rush introductions. Plan ahead
and prepare — this can make a big
difference and promote good long-term
relationships between cats. Without care,
introductions have the potential to bedifficult for all concerned. Preparing andmoving through a slow and step-wise plan
will ensure the best chance of success andpromote good long-term relationships
between cats. While the kitten is adjusting
to its new home, it should be kept separate
from the other resident pets until it has
settled in and everything is calm and quiet.
Your existing cat (or cats) will haveestablished territories within your home,

and the introduction of another cat, albeit
a little kitten, is not necessarily going to bewell received. It is important to ensure thatthe resident cat(s) can carry on their lives
in their existing space without awareness of
the kitten (initially) and never given theimpression that they are ‘under siege’.
Ensuring the normal routine of your existingcats is not disrupted is going to be very
important. Their beds, food and litter trays
should not moved about, and their feedingtimes remain the same as much as
possible, and they do not have to see, hearor encounter the kitten.
Forty-eight hours before your kitten comes
home, plug in a Feliway Optimum
pheromone diffuser in the areas of yourhome that your resident cat chooses to use.

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The first meeting• The door to the kitten’s room should
remain closed initially, allowing the kitten
to exercise within that space without
encountering your other cat.
• Exchange scents (as above) for about aweek, if possible, before letting them seeeach other. Then, let each explore theothers’ space, when they are not present.
Using a small soft cloth or soft cotton
glove, gently stroke or rub around thekitten’s head. Rub this kitten scent onto
the furniture at cat height to help theother cat adjust to the kitten’s scent
before they meet.
Scent is very important to cats. For yourcats, your house will have a certain smell
which makes it familiar. It will consist of theresident cat(s) scent, left by rubbing its
face and body on walls and furniture, alongwith the normal household smells. Although
you are unlikely to see the scent markings;
your cat’s scent is everywhere.
Initially, introducing the kitten by smell only
may help resident cat(s) investigate thekitten without encountering it, and is agentle start to the introductions. To mix the
new kitten’s scent into this communal
smell, swap bedding between the kitten
and resident cat(s) — this should only be
carried out once the kitten is fully adjusted
to his/her new home. In addition, if thekitten enjoys being stroked, use a small soft
cloth, a soft cotton glove or your hand, andgently stroke or rub around the kitten’shead and the rest of its body, and then rub
this onto the furniture at cat height. This
leaves ‘kitten scent’ around for the resident
cat(s) to encounter as it moves around.

12• The first few meetings should not involve
approach of, or contact with, each other.
If you have a glass or mesh door or can
set up a barrier with baby gates andmesh so that the cats can see eachother, but not yet interact, this will help
introductions too. Initially, this should bepartially covered, with something like a
blanket.
• When you first have the kitten andresident cat in the same room keep
everything quiet and relaxed. Reward
calm behaviour.
• Have one person supervising each cat, ina low-key way, and ready to gently andpositively intervene before a problem
occurs.

If you can, set up a barrier so that thecats can see each other, but not yet
interact.

Finalcc4llkittenbooklet.qxp_CC4l kitten 16/07/2021 12:24 Page 15• In some introductions the kitten may be
accepted fairly quickly, in others it may
take weeks or months before theresident cat feels relaxed with the kitten
around — all cats are different. Allinteractions between adult and kitten
should still be closely supervised.

Have a wand toy ready to distract if
required during initial meetings.
• As long as each cat is calm and happy,
initially allow then to sniff and interact
and get used to one another for very
brief periods, before distracting themaway with a toy or food or attention thatthey enjoy. Kittens are very curious aboutother cats and will try to interact; it is theolder cat which may be more likely to bewary or even upset. Never force
interactions, and reward calm reactions.
Allow the resident cat to move away if itwishes to. Watch for the slightest sign oftension, and gently remove the kitten
before any upset.
• The cats may choose to stay away fromor ignore each other – this is fine. There is
no rush, and introductions should be a‘non-event. It may take some time toaccept a new cat in the house. As longas there is no sign of upset or distress, or
antagonism, they may learn to accept
each other over time.
• Kittens like to hide under furniture or insmall places. Make sure there are thingsin the room which the kitten can get intoor under safely, which the larger catcannot access. Resident cat(s) should
also have room to avoid or beinaccessible to the kitten.

• The kitten and existing cat(s) should
never be forced to interact/be in close
proximity to one another, nor should they
be fed in the same locations (cats arenaturally solitary feeders), as this maylead to conflict between them andpotentially negatively affect theirrelationship. Both kitten and adult, should
always be provided with ample
resources of their own (bed, litter tray,
food bowls, water bowls, etc) positioned
in separate locations.
• The energy and enthusiasm kittens havefor play can often outweigh that of adultcats. In order to prevent your kitten
annoying your resident cat(s), ensure
your kitten has ample opportunity forsocial and independent play. Watch
carefully for any play behaviour fromyour kitten that appears to be unwantedby your resident cats. If this happens,
calmly re-direct the kitten onto more
appropriate outlets, such as toys, before
the resident cat gets upset.

Do not leave kittens unsupervised withresident cats until you are happy thatthey are getting along.
For further information go to:
icatcare.org/advice/introducing-anadult-cat-to-your-cat

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Meeting a resident dog

C

ats and dogs can and often do get on
well. They generally have different
agendas and priorities, and so do notcompete for the same resources. It may benatural for either to show a little warinessinitially. Careful planning following a slow
and positive stepwise plan can result incalm acceptance of each other, or evenfriendships!
If the dog has happily lived with cats before
it may make the introduction processeasier. Similarly, a kitten that has beenreared around dogs, and found theircompany to be a positive experience, ismuch more likely to be curious than fearfulof a dog in its new home. However, if you
have a dog that has experience of herding
or chasing, such as a working sheep dog,some terrier breeds, or an ex-racing
greyhound, then it may be much more
driven than other breeds by its instincts
and previous experiences to herd or chase.
In all cases, care should be taken during
introductions.

around for the other to encounter orallowing the other to smell the glove,prior to meeting each other. Reaction to
the scent will give you an indication of
how each animal might react to theother, as well as giving them a chance tobecome accustomed to the smell of theother before actually physically meeting.
• Make sure the kitten has lots of places toescape to. Adult cats can jump up onto
furniture or windowsills, but kittens willneed steps up to safe places usingcushions or stools. Smaller kittens arelikely to hide under furniture or in small
places, so make sure there are things in
the room which the kitten can get into or• Forty-eight hours before bringing yourkitten home, plug an Adaptil pheromone
diffuser (adaptil.com) in the space
where your dog normally lives.
• The plan should follow the samestructure and steps as cat introductions(pages 11–13). It is important to progress
slowly, positively, and ensure that both
the dog and the kitten are calm andrelaxed at all times.
• As with cat-to-cat introductions, before
any physical introductions, introduce
each animal to the other’s scent. Thiscan be carried out by swapping bedding
and by stroking both animals with acotton glove on and leaving the scent14

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Have the dog on a loose lead for the firstfew meetings to prevent any chasing or
lungeing at the kitten.

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under safely, and which the dog cannot
access. Ensure the cat has plenty ofplaces off the ground to retreat to or
watch from. Cats feel safer if they are off
the ground.
• Similarly, the dog should be able to avoid
or move away from the kitten if itchooses to. The resident dog should
never be trapped or have to accept
unwanted or sustained attention fromthe kitten.
• Ensure that both dog and kitten havesome physical and mental exercise
before meeting. This ensures that they
are both in a calm and relaxed state,
and not so excitable when they meet.
Have the dog with a well-fitting collar or
body harness, and loose lead to prevent
any chasing or lunges at the kitten.
• Reward both dog and kitten for quiet,calm, relaxed behaviour in the presenceof each other — initially at a distance,
always supervised, and perhaps with an
engaging activity for each to do, such as
calm play or attention.
• If either the kitten or the dog is excitable,
gently and positively remove them fromthe situation before there is a problem,
and allow each to calm down.
• Using rewards, dogs (and cats) can betaught to look at or move towards you
on cue, so that you can direct themaway from the kitten if need be.
• Ensure that the kitten can access litter
facilities, food, water and resting places
without having to pass the dog directly,
and vice versa. Each animal should haveaccess to everything it wants and needs,
without having to encounter the other,Child safety gates can be used toseparate dogs and cats and allow thekitten access to its resources without
having to pass the dog.

until such time as they are relaxed ineach other’s company.
• Child safety gates can be used toseparate dogs and cats and allow thekitten access to its food, for example. The
kitten’s food bowl should be kept
separate from the dog’s. When the cat isolder, food can be placed on raised
surfaces to keep out of the dog’s reach.

Never leave the dog and kitten alone
together until you are happy that they
are safe together.
For more information go to:
icatcare.org/advice/introducing-a-cator-kitten-to-your-dog

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Grooming your kittenM

ost cats can enjoy being groomed
and, for some long-haired cats, it is anecessity. Grooming can be very bonding,and also provides an opportunity to give
your cat a physical examination; look at its
ears, eyes and mouth and check for fleas,ticks, ear mites or any lumps or bumps, orinjuries to the skin.
• Even if your kitten does not needgrooming yet, it is a good idea to teachpositive associations with being
groomed from a very early age.
Be brief and gentle, and avoid tugging at
tangles, hurting or frightening the kitten,
as this can put it off being groomed forlife.
• Start by simply stroking your cat with acouple of fingers to get your cat used to
the feeling of being touched. Reward
your cat with praise and small, tasty foodtreats for relaxed and calm behaviour.
• Next, touch the areas that your cat ismost likely to enjoy such as the head,
face and back. Once your cat is fully
comfortable with these areas, you canmove onto other areas such as the body,legs and belly.
• Many brushes and combs are available.
Ensure the grooming brush you initiallyuse is very soft (such as a baby
toothbrush). If you have a long-hairedcat, you will need a little more equipment
than you would need for a kitten withshort hair.
• Use food and/or treats to create positive
associations with grooming equipment
and the experience of being brushed.
Rewards should come immediately after
the presentation of the brush and after acouple of strokes of grooming, so your16

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Use a soft toothbrush at first to allow thekitten to feel comfortable with grooming.

kitten learns that the brush andgrooming predict the arrival of a reward.
• Gradually build up the amount of time
you spend grooming your kitten.
Grooming your entire kitten does notneed to occur in one session. It may beeasier for your kitten to accept several
short sessions where only one body area
is groomed at a time.

A kitten should never be forcibly
groomed or stroked without the option
to escape if it is finding the experiencestressful.
For further information on grooming goto:icatcare.org/advice/grooming-yourcat
icatcare.org/advice/handling-yourcat-for-grooming-video

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Socialising your kittenHelping your kitten to be relaxed andbuild positive associations with people,
cats and dogs, is known as socialisation.
Teaching cats to be comfortable with theenvironment around them, be it their home,grooming and handling interactions, traveland veterinary visits, and being calmly
acceptance of anything new, is known as
habituation. As with young puppies, kittens
need to be socialised and habituated to
the world in which they live. Every baby
animal has what is known as a ‘sensitive
period’ during which, if they have lots ofpositive experiences and limited or nostressful or negative experiences, they learn
what is safe and need not be feared. These
grow up to be resilient, confident andhappy individuals, that make wonderfulpets for life. In cats, the sensitive period is
between two and seven or eight weeks,
meaning that many kittens will be outside
this special learning period by the time theycome to your home. This does not meanthat all is lost; there is plenty you can doand build on.

Positive experiences with humans, catsand dogs are the foundations of building
good associations with handling,
grooming, travel and veterinary visits.

It is important that kittens have lots ofpositive exposures and experiences. If,
for any reason, your kitten seems timid,
anxious or does not appear to cope
easily, do not continue to socialise or
habituate it without expert guidance tosupport you. Contact your vet, who canrefer you to an appropriately qualified
behaviourist or trainer (as is needed).
Choosing your cat from a reputablebreeder or rescue centre should ensurethat your have been well socialised andhabituated in the first two months of life.
You can continue with this following
adoption, teaching your kitten about all
aspects of its life in a calm and positive
way, right through adolescence.
To ensure confident, behaviourally healthycats, we can support kittens by introducing
them to many different new things. Always
allow the kitten to choose whether toapproach or retreat, monitoring it to ensure
it is calm, relaxed and in a positive frame ofmind. Pair new things with good things, forexample food or treats, play or stroking (ifyour kitten enjoys that).
There is plenty to do in helping your kitten
feel really comfortable, calm and positive
about new things in its world. We want
kittens to be optimists! For example, playing
recorded sounds, initially at a low volume,of children or babies, vacuum cleaners,
telephones and washing machines, can bepaired with good things to create positive
associations with household items. Start
slowly and gently with a variety of sights,
sounds, scents and interactions. The kitten
should not be overly excited or appear inany way worried or uncomfortable.

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Keeping your kitten safeAll cats, and especially kittens, arecurious and exploratory. Your kitten will
be fascinated by everything. Think about
the environment from your kitten’s
perspective — get down on your hands andknees and then look up high. Your kitten willsoon be able to access high spaces too.
Have you removed the hazards? Think
about:• Washing machines and driers: checkthe kitten is not inside before every use,and shut the door to keep the kitten out.
• Hot hobs: keep kittens off the worktops
and cover hot hobs after use.
• Fridge: kittens can slip into fridges very
easily, so check before you shut the door.
• Fireplaces and chimneys: dark places
may be appealing to a timid kitten or
curious one, so block access if possible.
• Small gaps and holes: block small gapsthat lead to places where the kitten may
get stuck.
• Paper shredders: a curious paw can bebadly injured, so turn off between uses.

• Concentrated washing powders, liquids
and capsules: spills or licks can causeburns so put these away safely with lids
tightly on and clean up any spillages.
• Plants and cut flowers: kittens love tonibble so make sure your houseplants
are non-toxic.
Remember that lilies are highly toxic tocats and should not be kept in thehouse with a kitten/cat. At Christmas
time poisonous holly and mistletoe
berries may fall off and be eaten. For
more information go to:
icatcare.org/advice/cats-andpoisonous-plants

18• Cleaners, bleaches and disinfectants:
some disinfectants are highly toxic tocats. Choose safe disinfectants and wipeaway or rinse off any excess that the
kitten could lick.
As cats groom they will ingest anything
on their coat or feet.
For more information on poisons go to:
icatcare.org/advice/cats-and-poisons• Sewing equipment: kittens are
fascinated by cotton. Playing can easily
lead to swallowing thread and needles,
so tidy away carefully.
• Ironing boards and irons: kittens love tojump onto high surfaces. Ironing boards
can easily tip over and hot irons cancause burns.
• Wires and cords: some kittens like tochew wires with risks of electrocution,
ingestion and strangulation. Use cordtidies to remove temptation. Cords on
blinds and net curtains can also become
tangled around kittens.
• Open windows: kittens falling from
windows can be seriously injured, so
keep windows shut or buy screens andlocks to prevent access. Similarly,
balconies should be blocked off orcovered with netting.
• Garage hazards: all spillages should becleared up and any anti-freeze
containing products must be lockedaway as these are highly toxic and canbe attractive to drink.
• Christmas trees: a favourite for climbing,trees can fall over easily and glass
baubles break. Tinsel can also beingested and cause illness.

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Letting your kitten go outsideBecause of potential infection from
diseases such as enteritis or cat flu, andbecause there are many hazards outside
for a small kitten, your kitten should not beallowed outside until it has had at least two
vaccinations (it is best to wait seven to 10
days after the second vaccine). If possible,
wait until after it is neutered and has been
microchipped or is used to wearing a collar
as well. Most people will keep their kittens in
until they are about six months old andhave a little more sense than younger
kittens.

Recall training
Long before letting your kitten out for
the first time, teach your kitten a recall.
This simply involves calling your kitten
by its name or saying a word such as‘come’, when you are right beside it.
Each time it turns towards you, give areward, such as a treat. Slowly build up
to having a little distance between you,so that if you are only a few metresfrom your cat, it is likely to come to you
and you can reward with a tasty treat ora meal (if you do this before
mealtimes). Once the cat understands,
the same word can then be usedoutside to encourage your cat to comein when you need it to.
Remember to always reward your cat
for coming to ensure it continues to do
so in the future. Never make it anegative experience, for example byonly shutting the cat-flap. Instead, shutthe cat-flap, then give your cat a longlasting activity, such as a meal in a
puzzle feeder or by treasure hunt.

Remember before allowing your new
kitten to go out, ensure it has a meansof identification, has had its vaccinationand is neutered. For additional
informaton got to:
icatcare.org/advice/letting-your-catkitten-outside-for-the-first-time• If possible, make the garden escapeproof or block obvious holes in fences.
• Choose a quiet time (so that the kitten is
not frightened and runs off) to let the
kitten explore the garden with you for ashort period. Do not let the kitten wander
away to where you can not catch it. Callthe kitten in and reward it.
• Repeat the process, letting the kitten
stay out with you a bit longer each time.
• It is always a good idea to have a litter
tray indoors, regardless of whether yourcat has outdoor access. If you would likeyour cat to toilet outdoors, encourage
the kitten to use a freshly dug patch ofearth in the garden. This will help toprevent the kitten wandering into othergardens in search of suitable soft earth.
If you intend to use a cat-flap, you willneed to teach the kitten how to use it.
For further advice go to:
icatcare.org/advice/cat-flaps• If you are going to prevent your cat
going outside, for example at night, get it
used to a predictable routine of when
the cat flap is open. For example, if you
allow your cat out during daylight hours,
but keep it in at night, consider placing a

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Finalcc4llkittenbooklet.qxp_CC4l kitten 16/07/2021 12:24 Page 22• It is advisable to keep cats in at night, as
this is when many cat fights occur(increasing the risk of infectious
diseases, as well as injury) as well as
road accidents. Get used to calling yourcat in, rewarding it with a meal or treatand shutting it into the house at night.
Keeping your cat inside at dawn anddusk may also help to reduce hunting.

Allow the kitten to view the outside
before you start to introduce it to yourgarden.
curtain or board over the cat-flap so it
knows it will not open, and to relax
instead of trying to go out.

If you are unable to let your cat gooutside then you need to ensure thatit can get stimulation and exercise
indoors. Go to icatcare.org for lots of
information on making your cat’s
environment interesting, and ensuring
cats have plenty of opportunities toplay, simulate hunting, explore and‘be a cat’.

Keeping your kitten healthyW

hen you first bring your kitten home
you will ideally know what worming,

flea treatments or vaccinations it hasreceived. We recommend monthly visits tothe vets to assess your kitten’s health andbuild positive perceptions of beingtransported to, and the sights and smells

Make the carrier a pleasant place to be.
Put cat treats inside it and leave thedoor open at home to encourage thecat to go in and out and to sleep in it.
For more advice on helping your cat be
happy in the carrier go to:
icatcare.org/advice/encouraging-yourcat-to-be-happy-in-a-cat-carriervideo
icatcare.org/advice/putting-your-catin-a-cat-carrier-video

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of, the vets. It will likely take multiple trips,with lots of rewards and no bad things
occurring, to create good associations.

Encourage the kitten to feel comfortablewith entering the cat carrier voluntarily.

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Choosing a vet
Choosing a vet to register your kittenwith is very important. It may seemlogical to choose your nearest clinic.
However, not all vets are equally
educated to a high level in meetingcats’ welfare, behaviour or species
needs. It is best to find a veterinary
team that is cat friendly and have put
things in place to put cats at ease. Look
for a clinic in your local area that isaccredited as a Cat Friendly Clinic, thismeans the clinic follows theInternational Cat Care initiative to try toensure they care for cats in the best
possible way and make visits as stressfree as possible.
Accredited Cat Friendly
Clinics display this logo.
Find one near you byvisiting
catfriendlyclinic.org

Vaccinating your kitten
Vaccinating your cat helps to protect itagainst several serious and life-threatening
diseases. Vaccination is given as an
injection by a veterinarian under the skin(occasionally via drops into the nose andeyes) and provides crucial protection forcats against a number of diseases.
Vaccines can be described as ‘core’ or‘non-core’. ‘Core’ vaccines are consideredessential for all cats (including indoor-onlycats) due to the severity of the disease
being vaccinated against. ‘Non-core’vaccines are used when the vet considers
there is a risk of exposure to the infection
and vaccination would provide good
protection.
Core vaccines provide protection against:• Feline panleukopenia virus (also known
as, feline infectious enteritis or feline
parvovirus)• Feline herpesvirus (part of what is morecommonly called cat flu)
• Feline calicivirus (part of what is morecommonly called cat flu)
• Rabies (compulsory in some countries)
Non-core vaccines protect against:• Feline leukaemia virus• Chlamydophila felis• Bordetella bronchiseptica
Decisions regarding requirement for noncore vaccines may be based on the cat’sage, lifestyle and contact with other cats.
You should always discuss with your vet
what vaccines your own cat may require.

Use the seat belt to make sure the cat
carrier is secure in the car.

The initial kitten vaccine course is often
started at eight to nine weeks of age, with asecond injection three to four weeks later. It
is now common also to recommend a third
vaccination at 16 to 20 weeks of age toensure the kitten is properly protected.

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A first booster vaccination should be given
at or after six months of age to ensure agood level of continuing protection.
However, after that, the frequency ofbooster vaccinations may vary (every one
to three years) depending on the vaccine,disease and risk to that individual cat(depending on its lifestyle and otherfactors). Your vet will discuss this with you
to create the best plan for your Kitten.
Cats that stay at a boarding cattery willoften require an annual vaccination (orbooster vaccine before the cat goes into
the cattery) as this is a higher risk situation.
For more information on vaccination
schedules go to:
icatcare.org/advice/keeping-your-cathealthy/vaccinating-your-cat

Worming your kitten
The most common intestinal worms cats
get are called roundworms andtapeworms. Roundworms are particularlycommon in kittens as they can passed tothem via their mothers’ milk. Most infectedcats do not show signs of having worms;
however, large numbers of worms cancause weight loss, sickness and diarrhoea,
irritation around the anus and poor growth.
Also, importantly, worms can be passed tohumans, so regular treatment of your kitten
is a must.
Ask the people from whom you are getting
your kitten if they have treated the kitten forworms and what product they have used.
Ask your vet to advise a product that issuitable for your kitten’s age.
• Treat kittens for roundworms every two
weeks from three weeks of age until

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eight weeks of age, then monthly to six
months of age.
• Tapeworms are only usually a problem inolder cats, unless a kitten also has fleas,
so your kitten may not need treating
specifically at a young age. Tapeworm
treatment is commonly started from 12
weeks of age.
• In some countries regularly treatment forheartworm or lungworm is required socheck with your vet if you live in an area
where this is important.
• Once kittens are over six months of age
treat every one to three months with aproduct that is effective against bothtapeworms and roundworms. Monthly
worm treatments are recommended if
there are young children in the house or
immunocompromised adults.
After giving or administering any preventive
medication, such as worming medicine, it isa good idea to give your kitten a tasty treat
to help it learn that tablets or spot-on
treatments are nothing to fear — in fact
they often mean that something really niceis on its way.
For a video on how to give your cat atablet go to: icatcare.org/advice/howto-give-your-cat-a-tablet

Treating your kitten for fleas
Ask the people from whom you are getting
your kitten if they have treated the kitten forfleas and what product they have used.
Fleas are very common and large numbers
can cause serious problems in small
kittens. Talk to your vet about suitable
treatment when you have your first visit.
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pass on tapeworms. Treating your kitten
also ensures your home is not infested.
Your vet can also advise if you have otherpets.

Kill the flea.

Not the cat.

Your kitten will need ongoing treatment
for regular flea control. Always take yourvet’s advice on the best protocol foryour kitten. For more information go to:
icatcare.org/advice/fleas-and-fleacontrol-in-cats

Cleaning your kitten’s teeth
Brushing a cat's teeth is likely to be thesingle most effective way to reduce dental
plaque and maintain long-term oral health.
Like humans, brushing will not only prevent
plaque and tartar formation; it will also
promote healthy gums. Daily or even twice
daily brushing is recommended wherever
possible, and this is best introduced at a
young age when the kitten can quickly
become accustomed to the procedure. It is
important to use the correct equipment.

Permethrin spot-on flea products for dogs can kill cats
Ask your vet for advice on safe flea treatments for your cat

icatcare.org/permethrin

NEVER be tempted to use a dog flea
product on a cat as some of these canbe highly toxic to cats (those that
contain permethrin) and fatal on small
kittens. Also avoid contact between a
recently treated dog and the kitten. See:
icatcare.org/avoiding-permethrin-andcontrolling-fleas

After giving any preventive medication,such as flea treatments, it is a good idea togive your kitten a tasty treat to help it learn
that tablets or spot-on treatments arenothing to fear and have positive
associations.

Never use human dental products on acat. Specific animal dental products arereadily available — ask your vet. See:
icatcare.org/advice/how-to-brushyour-cats-teeth

Neutering your kitten
Kittens reach sexual maturity from fivemonths of age and are therefore capableof breeding and producing kittens
themselves. It is not recommended thatyou let your female kitten have a litter
before it is neutered — there is no need, andit brings more kittens into a world where
there are already many which do not findloving homes.
Neutering a cat; castration in the male(removal of the testes) and spaying thefemale (removal of the ovaries and uterus),

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not only prevents unwanted pregnancies
occurring, but also curbs unwanted
behavioural patterns associated withsexual maturity and reduces the risk ofcertain diseases. Female cats should beneutered to prevent them having kittens,
but also to prevent various diseases suchas womb infections. Male cats, if
unneutered, generally spray urine more
frequently and have a pungent smell! They
may also have more behavioural issues
and fights, which increase the risk of them
contracting infectious diseases, as well as
increasing their tendency to wander andthe risk of road accidents.
It is now recommended that kittens areneutered around four months of age.
Neutering at this age does not pose any
additional risks to their health andensures that accidental litters do not occur.
Remember not to let your kitten gooutside until it is vaccinated andneutered. More advice on neutering canbe found at:
icatcare.org/advice/neutering-your-cat

Identifying your kitten
Identification is important if your cat goesmissing. If you are using a collar, make sure
to use the snap-open safe collars. Size andfit it properly and loosen it as the kitten
grows. Collars do fall off and can be ahazard to adventurous cats if they getcaught (hence the snap open safety
feature) and are not a permanent
identification. Placing a microchip under
the kitten’s skin in the ‘scruff’ region is a way
to permanently identify your pet. The
information is kept on a central databaseso ensure you update your details if you

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Collars can be used to identify cats but
you need to make sure they have a snap
open safety feature and are adjusted forsize as the kitten grows.
move to a new house. Your vet can
microchip your kitten for you, either at a
vaccination or health check appointment
or when the kitten is neutered.
For further advice on collar selection
and microchipping go to:
icatcare.org/advice/collars
icatcare.org/advice/microchipping
Insuring your kitten
Pet insurance principally provides cover for
veterinary fees if your cat is injured (it may
also include other benefits such as
covering the costs of advertising if your cat
is lost or care for your cat should you betaken ill, as well as cover for behavioural
treatment) or becomes sick. Kittens arevery curious and often get themselves into
trouble. The first year is the most hazardous
so ensure your kitten as early as possible —this also means that there are unlikely to bepre-existing conditions, which can be
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insurance policy can therefore provide
peace of mind in the event of an
emergency (if pet insurance is available inyour country). Veterinary fees can get very
expensive and knowing this will be covered
should your kitten be taken ill, is very
reassuring.
• Remember, not all pet insurance policies
are the same or work in the same way.
The cost of the policy will be based onyour kitten’s breed, where you live andthe type of cover you choose. Always
read the small print.
• Insure your kitten as soon as possible,
because if insurance is taken out after
an illness, then future similar illnesses
may be excluded from cover.
• The cheapest policy may not be the best.
Think about what you could afford in theevent of a problem with your kitten.
• Consider duration of cover: lifetime covermeans the condition will be covered foryour cat’s whole life, provided you renew
the cover each year; per condition coverprovides a maximum pay-out percondition over the cat’s life. For example,
should your cat develop a long-term
condition (such as diabetes), lifetime
cover will continue to fund the treatment.
• Twelve-month limit policies may becheaper but if your cat develops a longlasting condition, the insurance will only
cover for that one year and you will not
be able to cover it again as it will be apre-existing condition on your next
policy.

• Consider if other benefits are important
to you, such as payment in the event of
your cat’s death or cover for holiday
cancellation and cattery fees should
your cat or yourself fall ill.
There are many pet insurers and typesof insurance to choose from and,
understandably, owners can get
confused about the options andbenefits available. For more information
go to:
icatcare.org/advice/guide-to-catinsurance

A lifetime of support

As your kitten grows there are manythings to consider about how to keep it
happy and healthy in your environment
and the lifestyle you give it. These arecovered in depth on International Cat
Care’s website (icatcare.org).

Thank you to:• Lucy Daniels who provided much of
the photography in this booklet withthe help of kitten models, Peggy andLuna.

• Entrants in the International Cat Carephotography competitions for use of
their images.

• Also consider the excess you will have to
pay as well as the waiting period before
the cover starts (usually 14 days) during
which your kitten is not covered.

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