Guidelines on eco-toxicological requirements
for articles of clothing, leather goods,
footwear and accessories.

in collaboration with

Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

CONTENTS

1.

PURPOSE											3

2.

FIELD OF APPLICATION									3

3.

REFERENCES AND ASSUMPTIONS							4

4.

TERMS AND DEFINITIONS								5

5.

WAYS OF USING SUBSTANCES							6

6.

TEXTILES SUPPLY CHAIN								7

7.

LEATHER SUPPLY CHAIN								108.

INFORMATION ON CERTAIN FAMILIES OF SUBSTANCES			9.

SUMMARY TABLE: REFERENCE PARAMETERS FOR FAMILIESOF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES IN ARTICLES						1910.

TABLE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES							2211.

BIBLIOGRAPHY										37

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14

1. PURPOSE
These guidelines on the eco-toxicological requirements for articles of clothing/leather goods/footwear/accessories (the “Guidelines”) mark out the way towards innovative and informed fashion by
favouring the adoption of responsible management models along the entire chain of value as indicated in the Sustainability Manifesto for Italian fashion. (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana - http://
www.cameramoda.it/it/associazione/corporate-social-responsibility/923/).
This initiative is the first step of the Sustainability roadmap to 2020 promoted by Camera Nazionaledella Moda, that is already working on further guidelines for production processes.
The Guidelines promote the introduction and development of virtuous and sustainable practices
through effective use and management of chemical substances in production processes. This is
to guarantee that the aforementioned products have chemical safety standards superior to thoserequired by current law, for the benefit of consumers and the community in general.
To this end, the Guidelines will be regularly reviewed and integrated to assimilate new legislationsat international level, the results of studies of risks and toxicology, best available technologies andconsultation with the various stakeholders.
Camera Nazionale della Moda commits to cooperate, train and inform the whole supply chain withthe aim of achieving the outstanding goals that have been set.

2. FIELD OF APPLICATIONThe Guidelines are applicable to articles, including the materials they’re made of, of clothing, footwear, leather goods and accessories and address the players engaged in various capacities inthe design, production, distribution and marketing of such products.
Implementation of these Guidelines does not prejudice compliance with the provisions of law
applicable in the countries of origin and/or sale, is voluntary and may be adapted to different business policies.

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3. REFERENCES AND ASSUMPTIONS
In drawing up these Guidelines, the requirements included in the following legislation and standards
were taken into consideration:A) the main international legislation applicable (eg. European REACH Regulation, the Consumer
Product Safety Improvement ACT (CPSIA) in the USA, the China Revised National General Safety Standard for Textile Products (GB 18401), the Japanese JIS 112, etc.);B) the main international technical standards (eg. technical report UNI/TR 11359 Management ofsafety of textiles, clothing, furnishing, footwear in leather and accessories, CEN/TR 16741 Textiles
and Textile products – Guidance on health and environmental issues related to chemical content
of textile products intended for clothing, interior textiles and upholstery, etc.);C) the main industry specifications and protocols.
To standardize information and interpretation of data as far as possible and optimize synergy
among the various parties involved, it was necessary to adopt test methods and related detection
limits that are standard and/or shared and in line with the most advanced instrumentation available in major internationally accredited laboratories.
A table was then drawn up to list the reference parameters of the families of chemical substancesin products (“Summary Table”) using the following approaches:
1) ”Proactive”: considering the limits of the presence of residues of substances in articles, starting with the most restrictive legal requirements on an international level, towhich voluntary parameters may be added and which may include or go beyond the legal
ones;2) ”Advanced”: considers advanced requests of the market as targets to be achieved in a
background of continuous improvement, research and implementation of the best available
technologies. Such targets can be pursued through a continuous process of training andcollaboration within the whole supply chain, and will be reviewed at least annually (unlessmandatory legislative changes occur).

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4. TERMS AND DEFINITIONS
To facilitate consultation of the Guidelines, the main terms used and their definitions are given below.
ArticleAny product of clothing, footwear, leather goods or accessories, including the materials they are
made of.
InfantChild under 36 months.
D.L.
Detection Limit.
The lowest measurable concentration using the reference analytical method.
N.D.
“Not Detectable”, ie. below the detection limit.
Family of substances
A group of chemical substances sharing a chemical structure and/or having functional similarities.
Analytical method
Laboratory test method involving actions and instruments for identifying the type (qualitative
analysis) and/or quantity (quantitative analysis) of a substance in a substrate.
Analyses must be carried out in ISO 17025 accredited laboratories. It should be rememberedthat for certain families of substances internal methods based on the available standard ones areused. All methods must be accredited.
Methods and relative parameters will be regularly monitored and studied, also by means of inter-laboratory testing.
CAS
The CAS number of a chemical substance is its univocal identification according to the American
Chemical Abstracts Service.
Potentially hazardous substances
In these guidelines they are substances potentially present in articles of clothing, footwear, leather
goods and accessories which may, on the basis of current scientific knowledge, prove detrimental
to the health of persons and/or the environment.

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5. WAYS OF USING SUBSTANCES
For a clear understanding of these Guidelines and their subject matter it’s important to briefly lookat some basics of how the production and manufacturing chains actually work, since the possibility of complying with the requisites depends on the ways in which chemical substances are used.
Regarding use of chemical substances, and potentially hazardous and/or restricted ones in particular, it’s important to understand the distinction between the lists of substances restricted in
the Article or RSL (Restricted Substances Lists) and the lists of substances restricted in the production process or MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances Lists).
Given that chemical reactions also happen in nature, in defining any limit in articles or processes,
values lower than those already existent in nature should not be considered, and, while it is possible to guarantee that a substance is not used in the production process it, is not scientifically or
technically possible to guarantee its total absence.
Where available, the use of alternative and sustainable chemical substances is always preferable.
In replacing a substance, the environmental, economic and social impact of the possible alternatives should always be assessed.
Ways of using substances in the production, chemical and manufacturing chains may vary considerably in terms of quantities of chemical substances used, potential hazard, machines used andtypes of processing. In cases of extreme complexity it is necessary to follow good manufacturing practices, which are based on the best techniques/technologies available.
Within the production, chemical and manufacturing chains, information needed to enable correct
evaluation of articles’ compliance with the limits indicated in the “Summary Table” must always beprovided, though without prejudice to intellectual property and industrial secrets.
In the production chains, single chemical substances are rarely used (except for commodity chemicals, such as acetic acid). In most cases mixtures of substances are used. This is why a terminology common to all operators in the textile/clothing chain on one hand and the leather
goods/footwear chain on the other hand is used.
This common terminology (detailed hereunder) employs terms used in daily work to refer to the“functions” for which they are used, eg. wetting agent or levelling agent.
Chemical mixtures are used in production chains in countless phases, sometimes in highly complex
combinations. The descriptions that follow take into account the peculiarities of the textile/clothing
and leather goods/footwear chains.

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6. TEXTILES SUPPLY CHAIN
6.1 CHEMICAL MIXTURES USEDThe following table summarizes the terminology used for chemical mixtures. It is common to all
operators in the textiles supply chain and provides sufficiently full coverage of the terms used inthis production chain.
FUNCTION/TERM

MEANING/USE

1.

Accelerator – diffusor

Facilitates dyeing of low penetration fibres

2.

Thickener

Thickens print pastes

3.

Softener

Softens the article

4.

Hydrophilic softener

Softener for keeping a textile hydrophilic

5.

Silicone softener

Silicone emulsion to soften the article

6.

Anti-algae

Prevents formation of algae in print pastes

7.

Anti crack agent

Prevents signs of metal supports on bolts and yarns

8.

Stain resistant agent

Makes article oil-repellent

9.

Anti-migrantPrevents migration of colour in printing and with pigments

10.

Anti-oxidant

Prevents oxidation of colouring agents

11.

Anti-crease

Ensures dimensional stability

12.

Anti-pilling

Reduces the pilling effect on the article

13.

Anti-putrescent

Prevents putrefaction of print pastes

14.

Anti-reducing

Prevents undesired reduction of substances

15.

Anti-foaming

Prevents formation of foam

16.

Anti-static

Against electrical charging of fibres

17.

Anti-slipping

Prevents slipping of yarns between weft and warp

18.

Anti-mothPrevents proliferation of moth in wool

19.

Oxygenated water activator

Aids the whitening action of oxygenated water20.

Bacteriostatic

Prevents proliferation of bacteria on the article

21.

Blocking agent

Blocks a reaction in progress and/or reaction sites

22.

Bleaching agent

Whitener of fibres

23.

Optical whitener

Fibre whitener containing an optical brightener24.

Weighting agent

Facilitates working of silk fibres

25.

Carrier

Adjuvant of colouring agent precipitation on fibres

26.

Catalyst

Catalyst of chemical reactions

27.

Cyclodextrins

Molecules that encapsulate and then release substances

28.

Cohesive for fibres

Keeps fibres together in spinning operations

29.

DetergentFibre washing agent

30.

Detergent for degumming

Eliminates sericin from silk

31.

Detergent – dispersant

Detergent containing an amount of dispersant

32.

Detergent – emulsifier

Detergent capable of maintaining an emulsion

33.

Detergent – solvent

Detergent containing an amount of solvent

34.

Deaerating agent

Reduces air bubbles in wet processes

35.

Dispersant

Disperses substances in wet processes

36.

Dispersant for oligomers

Eliminates polyester oligomers

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33.

Detergente – solvente

Detergente contenente una parte di solvente

FUNCTION/TERM

MEANING/USE

37.

Dispersant – levelling agent

Dispersant that favours uniform dyeing

38.

Acidity donor

Releases acidity in bath

39.

Alkalinity donor

Releases alkalinity in bath40.

Emulsifier

For print paste or pigment dyes

41.

Amylase enzyme

Biological catalyst that accelerates chemical processes

42.

Catalase enzyme

Biological catalyst that accelerates chemical processes

43.

Cellulase enzyme

Biological catalyst that accelerates chemical processes

44.

Protease enzyme

Biological catalyst that accelerates chemical processes

45.

Fixative agent

Fixative for colouring agents, to increase solidity

46.

Fulling agent

Helps to felt wool

47.

Fungicide

Prevents proliferation of fungi on article

48.

Hydro-oleo repellent

Makes article water repellent and anti-stain

49.

Flame retardant

Makes material flame retardant50.

Wetting agent

Helps make textile fibres wettable

51.

Wetting agent – deaerating agent

Helps make fibres wettable and eliminates air

52.

Waterproofing agent

Makes material waterproof

53.

LubricantLubricates fibres, making them easier to work

54.

pH Neutralizer

Neutralizes pH

55.

Penetrant

Helps chemical products penetrate fibres

56.

Resin for non-shrink treatment

Makes wool shrink-resistant

57.

Reducing agent

Obtains reduction reactions

58.

Reserving agent

Prevents fibres from being stained with colour

59.

Retardant

Retards merging of the colouring agent with the fibre

60.

Discharge agent

Drains colouring agent from dyed material

61.

Foaming agent

Produces foam for specific processes

62.

Sequestrant

Removes metals in wet processes

63.

Sequestrant – dispersantRemoves and disperses substances

64.

Hydrogen peroxide stabilizer

Bleaches animal fibres

65.

Dimensional stabilizer

Obtains dimensional stability of fabrics

66.

Stabilizer for foam

Obtains stable foam in specific processes

67.

Buffering agent

Maintains a given pH

68.

Levelling agent

For homogeneous precipitation of dye on fibre69.

UV absorber

Capable of absorbing UV light70.

UV protectors

Capable of protecting against UV light

The following table details the classes of dyes used to individually dye textile fibres and theircountless blends.
DYE CLASSES
CLASS

USE

1.

Cationic

2.

Acid

3.

Pre-metallized

Generally on protein-based fibres but also on modified polyamide
and synthetic fibres
On protein-based fibres

4.

ChromeOn protein-based fibres

5.

DirectOn cellulose-based fibres and exceptionally on protein-based fibres

6.

Reactive

On protein- and cellulose-based fibres

7.

Vat

On cellulose-based fibres

8.

Sulphur

On cellulose-based fibres

9.

Dispersed

On polyester and exceptionally on other synthetic fibres

10.

Pigments

For print pastes

Generally on acrylic fibres, exceptionally on others

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The following are examples of substances normally used as commodity chemicals.

COMMODITY CHEMICALSACIDSELECTROLYTES

Acetic acid

Sodium sulphate

Formic acid

Sodium chloride

Sulphuric acid

ALKALINE SALTS

BASES

Sodium diphosphate

Ammonia

Sodium triphosphate

Sodium hydroxide

Sodium carbonate

OXIDIZING AGENTS

Sodium bicarbonate

Oxygenated water

ACID SALTS

Sodium hypochlorite

Ammonium sulphate

Sodium chlorite

Ammonium acetate

Sodium perborate

Sodium acetate

REDUCING AGENTS

STABILIZERS

Sodium bisulphite

Sodium silicate

Sodium hydrosulphite

Sodium pyrophosphate

Sodium thiosulphite

SOLUBILIZERS

Sodium sulphydrate

Urea

Sodium sulphide

6.2 PRODUCTION PROCESSES
Production processes may be divided into macro phases (eg. wool combing) in which there arevarious phases (eg. chemical spinning) in turn divided into processes (eg. desizing, scouring andbleaching) focusing on specific operations.
Detailed below are the macro-phases, phases and processes.
1. Wool combing
2. Spinning
2.1 Chemical spinning
2.2 Mechanical spinning
2.2.1 wool worsted spinning
2.2.2 wool woolen spinning
2.2.3 cotton spinning
2.2.4 open-end
3. Weaving
3.1 Orthogonal weaving
3.2 Knitting
4. Preparation for weaving
4.1 Sizing
4.2 Glueing
4.3 Waxing

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5. Ennobling
5.1 Pre-treatments
5.1.1 anti-shrinking
5.1.2 desizing, scouring, bleaching
5.1.3 mercerization and alkalinisation
5.1.4 carbonization
5.1.5 silk weighting
5.2 Dyeing
5.2.1 protein-based fibres
5.2.2 cellulose-based fibres
5.2.3 synthetic fibres
5.2.4 fibre mixes
5.3 Printing
5.3.1 direct/by application
5.3.2 corrosion
5.3.3 ink-jet
5.4 Finishing
5.4.1 physical-mechanical5.4.2 chemical
5.4.3 coating
5.5 Denim frabric
6. Post-treatments
6.1 Garment treatments
6.2 Dry cleaning

7. LEATHER SUPPLY CHAIN
7.1 CHEMICAL MIXTURES USEDThe following table summarizes the terminology used for chemical mixtures. It is common to all
operators in the leather supply chain and provides sufficiently full coverage of the terms used inthis production chain.

FUNCTION/TERM

MEANING/USE

1.

AnilineColouring agent

2.

Stain resistant agent

Makes the article oleo-repellent

3.

Anti-wrinkle

Auxiliary for preventing wrinkles in the liming phase4.

Starch

Product that determines leather’s feel, shine and appearance

5.

Alkalinity donor

Releases alkalinity in wet processes

6.

Alkalining fixing agent

Alkaline product for fixing mineral tanning

7.

Bacteriostatic

Prevents proliferation of bacteria on article

8.

Deliming agent

Product for lowering pH

9.

De-tanning agent

Product that removes tanning products

10.

Deacidifier

Product for removing acidity

11.

Dispersant

Disperses substances wet processes

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FUNCTION/TERM

MEANING/USE

12.

Skin detaching agent

Product that improves the detachment of the skin from other materials

13.

Emulsifier

Soaps and detergents that improve dispersion of greasy substances

14.

Lipase enzyme

Biological catalyst that accelerates chemical processes

15.

Fixative

Fixative for colouring agents, to increase solidity

16.

Fungicide

Prevents proliferation of fungi on article

17.

Waterproofing agent

Product that makes leather water resistant18.

Flame retardant

Makes leather flame retardant19.

Wetting agent

Makes leather wettable

20.

Impregnating agent

High penetration polymers for rigidity or fullness

21.

Fatliquoring

Lubricates and softens leather fibres

22.

Binding agent

Pigment binder

23.

Masking agent

Chelating adjuvant in penetration of mineral tanning

24.

Touch modifier

Product that changes the hand to silky, slippery, non-slip, etc.

25.

Neutralizer

Neutralizes pH

26.

Oleophobic agent

Product that prevents that the oily substances can wet the skin surface

27.

Penetrant

Aids penetration of colouring agents of chemical products in leather

28.

Pigment

Insoluble colouring product in dispersion

29.

Resin

30.

Filling agent

31.

Soaking agent

Adjuvant for diffusion of water in leather

32.

Sequestrant

Removes metals in wet processes

33.

Degreasing agent

Detergent that removes grease

34.

Foam stabilizer

Obtains stable foam in specific processes

35.

Buffering agent

Maintains a given pH

36.

TanninProducts that stabilize the structure of leather

37.

Levelling agent

For uniform precipitation of colouring on leather

38.

Patent leather varnish

Film that makes leather shiny

Organic substance, natural or synthetic, high molecular weight, amorphous, used in various stages, both in wet and in dressing
Product that selectively improves body in the parts of the leather with an
emptier structure11© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

The following table details the classes of dyes agents used.
DYE CLASSES

1.

Cationic

2.

Acid

3.

Pre-metallized

4.

Direct5.

Reactive

6.

Sulphur

7.

Dispersed (only on certain “double face” effects)

8.

Pigment

The following are examples of substances normally used as commodity chemicals.

COMMODITY CHEMICALSACIDSDELIMING SALTS

Acetic acid

Ammonium chloride

Formic acid

Ammonium sulphate

Sulphuric acid

Sodium bisulphite

Hydrochloric acid

SALTS

Oxalic acid

Ammonium bicarbonate

BASES

Calcium formate

Ammonia

Sodium acetate

Sodium hydroxide

Sodium bicarbonate

Calcium hydroxide

Sodium chloride

UNHAIRING AGENTS

Sodium formate

Sodium sulphydrate

SOLVENTS

Sodium sulphide2-Butoxyethanol

VEGETABLE EXTRACTS

2-Butoxyethanol acetate

Chestnut extract

Ethyl acetate

Gambier extract

Isobutyl acetate

Mimosa extract

Methyl acetate

Quebracho extract

2-Ethylhexanol

Sumach extract

Isopropyl alcohol

Micronized tara

2-Butoxyethanol acetate

TANNING SALTS

Butylglycol

Basic chromium sulfare

Cyclohexanone

Aluminium salts

Dilsobutyl ketone

Zirconium salts

Dipropylenegycol methyl ether

Titanium salts

Etil Diglicole Etere

Iron salts

Ethyldiglycol

ORGANIC TANNING AGENTS

Diethylene glycol

Glutaraldehyde

Propylene glycol

Oxazolidine

Methylisobutil ketone

Phosphonium salts

Xylene (Xylol;-o,-m,-p)

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7.2 PRODUCTION PROCESSESThe raw materials used in tanning are raw or semi-processed hides coming almost exclusively
from the food industry. Listed below are the main phases in tanning operations, which may varywith type of animal or process. Such types sometimes entail the exclusion or repetition of someof the processes listed.

1. Beamhouse operations
This phase rehydrates and washes the skins, removes superfluous parts and prepares them for further treatments.
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.4
1.5

DesaltingSoaking
LimingDeliming
Bating2. TanningThis phase stabilizes the skins with various kinds of chemical substances (mineral and organic).
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5

Pickling
Tanning
Mineral tanning
Vegetable tanning
Synthetic tanning

3. Re-tanningThis phase finishes the tanned leather to give it the desired colouring and softness.
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5

Chrome re-tanning
Neutralization
Re-tanning
DyeingFatliquoring

4. Dressing
This production phase includes the application of dyes, chemical substances, various kinds of materials and mechanical operations (eg. printing, brushing, etc.) to obtain the final effects.
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6

Impregnation
Pre-base coat
Base coat
Top coat
StarchInk Jet13© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

8. INFORMATION ON CERTAIN
FAMILIES OF SUBSTANCES
8.1 Phytosanitary products
8.2 Alkylphenol ethoxylates and Nonylphenol ethoxylates
8.3 Carcinogenic aromatic amines
8.4 Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes - chlorobenzenes
8.5 Chlorophenols –chlorinated phenols
8.6 Allergenic and carcinogenic colouring agents
8.7 Perfluorinated compounds
8.8 Organic tin compounds
8.9 Formaldehyde
8.10 Phthalates
8.11 Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH)
8.12 Isocyanates
8.13 Heavy metals
8.14 Nitrosamines
8.15 Short chain chlorinated paraffins8.16 Flame retardants
8.17 Organic solvents
8.18 Chlorinated solvents

8.1 PHYTOSANITARY PRODUCTS
Phytosanitary products include all products, synthetic or natural, that are used to combat the maindiseases in plants (infectious diseases, physiopathologies, parasites and phytophagous animals, weeds).
The possible presence of phytosanitary products on clothing, footwear, leather goods and accessories
may be caused by their use in the cultivation of vegetable textile fibres (eg. herbicides and pesticides)
or veterinary drugs used on livestock (eg. insecticides), or treatments of the article itself (eg. acaricides on fabrics and fungicides on leather).
Wet treatments at temperatures over 80° C during the finished product manufacturing phases usuallyeliminate such residues.
Pesticides, the term commonly used to indicate this family of substances, is not used in legislation or
official documents.

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8.2 ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES AND NONYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATES
APs, including Nonyl-phenol (NP), and APEOs, including Nonyl Phenol Ethoxylate (NPEO), are precursors of surfactant molecules and form a vast category of non-ionic surfactants characterized byexcellent performance both as detergents and emulsifiers and dispersants.
In Europe they have been used as the main components in detergent agents for washing and bleaching textile products, as finishing auxiliaries (dispersants, fulling agents,…), in spinning lubricants
and as degreasing agents for leather.
Given the structure of the supply chain, their presence in traces in the articles cannot be excluded,
partly because of residual contamination in some of the chemical products (surfactants, wetting agents, emulsions, polymers) and/or in the raw materials (eg. wool, leather, cashmere, silk).
8.3 CARCINOGENIC AROMATIC AMINES
Aromatic amines are amines with an aromatic substituent, ie. aromatic hydrocarbons to which at least
one amine group (NH2), an imine group (NH) or a nitrogen atom has been added. The structure of anaromatic amine therefore contains one or more benzene rings.
In almost all classes of dyes there are dyes with an azo structure (azo group –N=N- between two aromatic rings): some of them, due to the breaking of the chemical bonds (reductive splitting), can release
one or more aromatic amines that are carcinogenic or potentially carcinogenic for humans; amines
which can also be present as non–reacted impurities.
They can be present in all coloured materials and articles.
8.4 CHLORINATED BENZENES AND TOLUENES - CHLOROBENZENES
Chlorobenzenes are a group of substances in which the benzene ring has one or more hydrogen atom(H) substituted by a chlorine atom (Cl).
They are used mainly as intermediates in the production of other chemical substances and may bepresent as impurities in chemical formulations (eg. dyes and biocides).
Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes can be used as carriers for dyeing synthetic fibres, especiallypolyester, to increase absorption and diffusion of the dyes inside fibres in dyeing processes carriedout at low temperatures and ambient pressure. In Europe their use in such processes has almost disappeared. Polyester is dyed without a carrier, under pressure at around 130° C. They may also be
used to dye certain wool-polyester mixes.
They can be used as levelling agents in the dyeing, printing and coating of textile materials and leather
in general. Lastly, they are used in deodorants, fumigants, degreasing agents and defoliants. Dichlorobenzenes are used as insecticides or solvents for rubber, waxes or disinfectants. Trichlorobenzenes
are used as herbicides, insecticides or as solvents for dyes and other chemical formulations with highmelting points.
8.5 CHLOROPHENOLS –CHLORINATED PHENOLS
Chlorophenols are a group of substances with chlorine atoms linked to phenols and include all theisomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta-chlorophenol.
Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and Tetrachlorophenol and its salts (TeCP) were widely used in the past
as herbicides, fungicides, insecticides and anti-algae agents. In Europe they have not been used aspreservatives for some years. They may also be used as impregnating agents in textiles and may bepresent, as contaminants, in certain types of dyes. PCP and TeCP can also be used as preservatives
in pastes for printing.
8.6 ALLERGENIC AND CARCINOGENIC COLOURING AGENTS
Most dyes in which allergenic effects have been identified belong to the class of dispersed dyes. This
class of dyes is formed by molecules without polar groups capable of making the dye soluble in water and in fact they disperse in it but do not dissolve. This characteristic makes these dyes similar to
lipophilic structures like skin.
Some dispersed dyes are also carcinogenic even though they do not contain azo groups capable ofreleasing the carcinogenic aromatic amines in 8.2 above.
Dispersed dyes are used mainly in the dyeing of polyester and acetate but also polyamide.

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8.7 PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS
Perfluorinated compounds (PFC) are formed by fluorine and carbon.
They can be used in finishes requiring water repellence, stain resistance and oil repellence (treatmentcommonly known as DWR - Durable Water Repellent) for work clothes, uniforms, medical fabrics,
outdoor clothing, etc.
Since there are alternative products on the market (eg. non-fluorinated products for water repellence),
the intentional use of certain perfluorcarbons now illegal (PFOS, PFOA) is excluded. Unfortunately,
they were widely used in the past and given their environmental persistence they can be present asenvironmental pollutants and/or degradation products.
8.8 ORGANIC TIN COMPOUNDS
Organic tin compounds are those that contain at least one tin-carbon bond.
Di-organic tin compounds are used as thermal stabilizers in the production of PVC or as catalysts inthe production of polymer materials (eg., polyurethane (PU), polyester or polymers of self-crosslinking
silicone). They may also be used as biocides (they are mildly anti-bacterial) or preservatives in fabrics
and leather. They may also be contained in silicone-based finishes (eg. for their elastomeric and hydro-repellent properties).
Tri-organic tin compounds are used as fungicides in the textile industry. Mono-organic tin compounds
do not have biocidal properties.
8.9 FORMALDEHYDE
Formaldehyde is a highly reactive volatile organic compound and, as such, is ubiquitous and may befound anywhere. It is produced industrially but is also generated in a number of processes of degradation of natural organic molecules and is present in many foods (eg. fruit and vegetables, meat, fish,
crustaceans and dried mushrooms, etc.), partly as an impurity in treatment and preservation processes
but above all because it’s present as a metabolic intermediate in various organisms. Formaldehyde hasvarious properties: its capacity to inactivate microorganisms makes its a biocide (anti-mould, etc.) but its
main use is in the production of polymers, especially Urea-Formaldehyde (UF), Melamine-Formaldehyde (MF) and Phenol-Formaldehyde (PF) resins.
Given its extreme versatility, formaldehyde is used industrially across a wide range of applications, including:in the textile sector : anti-crease and anti-stain fixative, intermediate in the production of elastomericfibres, a component in dye fixatives for fabrics and prints, and a component in levelling agents and dispersants;in the leather sector: production of polyurethane polymers in aqueous dispersion and acrylic polymers
in aqueous emulsion for dressing of leather, as an auxiliary in biocides, for crosslinking casein solutions,and in tannins as a re-tanning agent in the wet phases of leather treatment.
8.10 PHTHALATES
Phthalates (esters of phthalic acid) are compounds used above all as plasticizers in the plastics industry. They are used mainly in the production of “soft” plastic articles, for they make material very
flexible and deformable. They can be found in both textile articles and footwear.
There is a risk of their being found in prints, coatings/linings, plastics, adhesives and sometimes innitro paints (nitro lacquers), where they are used as plasticizers.
8.11 POLYCYCLIC AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS (PAH)
These are hydrocarbons with a complex structure consisting of two or more aromatic rings. They may
be present as impurities in certain raw materials used in the production of chemical mixtures and dyes.
PAHs are not easily soluble in water, do not evaporate and do not readily degrade.
They have been found not only in rubber but also in numerous plastics (ABS, PP,…). The main causesof PAH contamination include: plasticizing oils used in the production of rubber and plastics, ashes forthe black pigment of rubber and plastics, contaminated lacquers.

16© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

8.12 ISOCYANATES
The isocyanates are a group of aromatic or aliphatic compounds of low molecular weight containing
the radical isocyanate.
Isocyanates react with compounds contained in alcohol groups to produce the polyurethane polymers
that make polyurethane foams, thermoplastic elastomers, elastan, polyurethane paints, etc..
They can also be used in the dressing of leather, in adhesives for footwear and in coatings for textiles.
8.13 HEAVY METALS
Heavy metals are natural substances that are found in numerous types of material. Detailed below are
the metals in question here and their possible applications:• Antimony (Sb). Used as a catalyst in the production of polyester fibres.
• Arsenic (As). Its compounds are used mainly in pesticides, herbicides and insecticides. They are
not normally used in textile applications but they may be found in recycled materials and some colours/glass.
• Cadmium (Cd). Widely used as a stabilizer of plastics (PVC); it can also be found in metallic accessories, glass and dyes/paints (usually red, orange, yellow, green).
• Cobalt (Co). Used in the production of inks, paints and dyes.
• Chromium (Cr). The most dangerous form of chromium is hexavalent Cr, which is rare in nature but
can be found in textiles and leather articles. In textiles, hexavalent chromium can be found in articles
dyed with post-chromate conversion dyes, when conditions have not been thoroughly controlled. In
leather articles on the other hand, hexavalent chromium may be present because it’s formed in thepresence of oxidizing substances used in tanning. Cr and its compounds are also used in the production of metal complex dyes.
• Mercury (Hg). Hg is deemed to be totally excluded from textile processes. It may sometimes befound as a contaminant in certain low quality catalytic processes.
• Nickel (Ni). Ni is widely used in surface treatments for numerous metallic accessories in common
use in the clothing and footwear sectors.
• Lead (Pb). In the textiles and leather sectors lead may be associated with the use of paints and pigments; it is also found in certain alloys for metallic accessories and glass.
• Copper (Cu). In the textiles and leather sectors copper may be present in certain metal complex
dyes or used as a mordant to increase the light fastness of certain dyes. It can also be found in a
number of metallic components/as a base for galvanizing treatments.
8.14 NITROSAMINES
Nitrosamines are organic compounds containing a nitroso group, -N=O, bonded to an amine.
Nitrosamines and their precursors may be deliberately added during the manufacturing of natural andsynthetic rubbers. They are used as constituents of accelerators, anti-oxidants and reinforcing agentsto give the end product strength and elasticity.
Nitrosamines may be generated from their precursors to provide secondary products in processes
for rubber production and storage. They may therefore be found, for example, in rubbers used for thesoles of footwear.

17© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

8.15 SHORT-CHAIN CHLORINATED PARAFFINS
Short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) are complex mixtures of polychlorinated hydrocarbons.
Their main use is as lubricant additives in fluids for metal working processes. They are also used as
flame retardants, plasticizers for rubbers, paints and adhesives.
Lesser uses include greasing and softening agents in the leather industry, impregnating agents in the
textiles industry and additives for sealing compounds.
8.16 FLAME RETARDANTS
There are two classes of products normally regulated: brominated or chlorinated flame retardants (eg.
PBB, PBDEs, TCEP) and organophosphate flame retardants (eg. TRIS and TEPA).
Brominated flame retardants (organobromine compounds) or chlorinated retardants (chlorinated hydrocarbon-based) are mixtures of artificial chemical substances that may be added to a wide rangeof products, also for industrial use, to make them less inflammable, as they have high stability and acapacity to diminish propagation of flames.
The term organophosphate (sometime abbreviated to OP) refers generically to the esters of phosphoric acid. Some of their compounds based on production processes containing chlorine, such astri (2-chloroethyle) phosphate (TCEP), tri (2-chlorine-1-methyl) phosphate (TCPP) and tris (1,3-dichloro-2-propyl) phosphate (TDCP), are used to reduce the inflammability of materials, as are thenon-chlorinated POs such as tris (2-butoxyethyl) phosphate (TBEP), tri-iso-butyl phosphate (TiBP)
and tri-n-butyl phosphate (TnBP).
8.17 ORGANIC SOLVENTS
Organic solvents are widely used in industry and day-to-day life. They may be found in adhesives,
colours, sprays and printing processes. They have low boiling points and evaporate easily at room
temperature.
Benzene and toluene are solvents commonly found in adhesives, while dimethylformamide (DMF)
is commonly found in polyurethanes. Dimethylformamide is also used as an organic solvent in the
production of plastics, adhesives and coatings. Due to their nature and uses, they could be present intraces in many of the chemical substances obtained by synthesis processes.
8.18 Chlorinated solvents
Chlorinated solvents are halogenated aliphatic solvents and are in widespread use. Some may be
used in textile processing as washing solvents or carriers for functional finishes. They may also be
used as swelling agents for urethane foam, chemical intermediates in dyes and pesticides and industrial detergents.
They may also be present in thermoplastic adhesives for printworks and be used for surface cleaning
operations.

18© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

9. SUMMARY TABLE
Reference parameters for the families of chemicals in articles
Introduction
The implementation of this Guideline does not affect the compliance to the legal requirements of theCountries of origin and on sale.
Approaches
Proactive: considering the limits of the presence of residues of substances in articles, starting with themost restrictive legal requirements on an international level, to which voluntary parameters may be
added and which may include or go beyond the legal ones;
Advanced: considers advanced requests of the market as targets to be achieved in a backgroundof continuous improvement, research and implementation of the best available technologies. Suchtargets can be pursued through a continuous process of training and collaboration within the whole
supply chain, and will be reviewed at least annually (unless mandatory legislative changes occur).
For some families of chemicals, the limits in the articles have been distinguished between leather andtextile, given the intrinsic diversity of the matrixes analyzed, as well as the different analytical methods
used and the related detection limits.
Analytical method
The analysis must be carried out in ISO 17025 accredited laboratories. It should also be taken into
account that, for some families of substances, internal methods (based on the normed available ones)
are used. All methods must be accredited.
The methods and related parameters will be periodically monitored and explored, even through inter-laboratory tests.

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20© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

The different supply chains agree to monitor the performance of analytical methods and the related
detection limits through periodical inter-laboratory tests on the matrixes of interest.
NOTES
(*)
Parameters voluntarily applicable also to children over 36 months.
(**)
The name “Pesticides”, commonly used to refer to this family of substances, is not a term used in legislation or official documents.
(***)
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/international_conventions/pdf/questions_answers.pdf
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32010R0757&from=IT
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:164:0007:0031:en:PDF

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Agrochemicals (Phytosanitary products)

Categories

10. TABLE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES

SubstancesCAS

Aldrin309-00-22-(2,4,5-Trichlorophenoxy)propionic acid, its salts
and compounds

93-72-1

Azinphos-methyl

86-50-0

Azinphos-ethyl2642-71-9

Bromophos-ethyl4824-78-6

Captafol2425-06-1

Carbaryl

63-25-2

Chlordane

57-74-9

Chlordecone143-50-0

Chlordimeform

6164-98-3

Chlorfenvinphos

470-90-6

Coumafos

56-72-4

Cyfluthrin

68359-37-5

Cyhalothrin

91465-08-6

Cypermethrin

52315-07-8

DEF

Notes

78-48-8

Deltamethrin

52918-63-5

Diaryl halogenated alkanes

variousDicrotophos

141-66-2

Diazinon

333-41-5

Halogenated biphenyls, including Polychlorinatedbiphenyls (PCBs)

1336-36-3; 53469-219; Various

22© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories

Substances

CAS

Halogenated biphenyls, including Polychlorinatedbiphenyls (PCBs)

1336-36-3; 53469-219; Various

1-(o-Chlorophenyl)-1-(p-chlorophenyl)-2,2dichloroethane (o,p'-DDD)

53-19-0

1,1-Dichloro-2,2-bis(4-chlorophenyl)ethane (p,p'DDD)

72-54-8

Agrochemicals (Phytosanitary products)
Agrochemicals (Phytosanitary products)

2-(2-Chlorophenyl)-2-(4-chlorophenyl)-1,1dichloroethene (o,p'-DDE)

3424-82-6

1,1-Bis(p-chlorophenyl)-2,2-dichloroethylene (p,p'DDE)

72-55-92,4'-Dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane (o,p'-DDT) and
its isomers; preparations containing DDT and its
isomers
p,p'-Dichlorodiphenyldicloroethane (p,p'-DDT) and its
isomers; preparations containing DDT and its
isomers789-02-6
50-29-3

2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acido, its salts andcompounds

94-75-7

Dichlorprop

120-36-5

Dieldrin

60-57-1

Dimethoate

60-51-5

Dinoseb and its salts

88-85-7

Endosulfan

115-29-7

Endosulfan, alfa

959-98-8Endosulfan, beta

33213-65-9

Endrin72-20-8

Endrin72-20-8

Hexabromobiphenyl

36355-01-8

Hexachlorocyclohexane
Hexabromobiphenyl

608-73-1
36355-01-8

Esfenvalerate
Hexachlorocyclohexane

66230-04-4
608-73-1

Fenvalerate

51630-58-1

Esfenvalerate

66230-04-4

Heptachlor

76-44-8

Fenvalerate

51630-58-1

Heptachlor

76-44-8Heptachlorepoxide1024-57-3

Isodrin465-73-6

Kelevan4234-79-1

Lindane (gamma-HCH)

Notes

23

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Categories
Agrochemicals (Phytosanitary products)

Agrochemicals
Agrochemicals(Phytosanitary(Phytosanitary
products)
products)

Substances

CAS

Lindane (gamma-HCH)

58-89-9

Malathion

121-75-5

MCPA (4-Chloro-2-methylphenoxyacetic acid)94-74-6

MCPB ( 4-(4-Chloro-o-tolyloxy)butyric acid94-81-5

Mecoprop93-65-2

Halogenated diphenyl methanes

various

Methamidophos

10265-92-6

Methoxychlor

72-43-5

Metilparathion

298-00-0

Mevinphos (Fosdrin)

7786-34-7

Monocrotophos

6923-22-4

Monomethyl-dibromo-diphenyl methane (DBBT)

99688-47-8

Monomethyl-dichloro-diphenyl methane

81161-70-8

Monomethyl-tetrachlorodiphenyl methane

76253-60-6

Halogenated naphthalenes

variousParathion

56-38-2

Perthan

72-56-0Profenofos

41198-08-7

Propetamphos

31218-83-4

Quinalphos

13593-03-8

Pentachloronitrobenzene (PCNB,(PCNB, Quintozene)
Quintozene)
Pentachloronitrobenzene

82-68-8
82-68-8

Strobane
Strobane

8001-50-1
8001-50-1

Telodrin
Telodrin297-78-9
297-78-9

Alogenated phenols, including polychlorinatedtriphenyls (PCT)

variousToxaphene

8001-35-2

2,4,5-Trichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4,5-T), its salts
and compounds

93-76-5

Trifluralin

1582-09-8

24

Notes

© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories
Agrochemicals (Phytosanitary
products)
Alkylphenols - Alkylphenol ethoxylates
Carcinogenic aromatic
Carcinogenic
aminesaromatic amines

SubstancesCAS

Toxaphene

8001-35-2

2,4,5-Trichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4,5-T), its salts
and compounds

93-76-5

Trifluralin

1582-09-8

α− Hexachlorocyclohexane319-84-6β− Hexachlorocyclohexane319-85-7

δ− Hexachlorocyclohexane319-86-8

Notes

Alkylphenols
25154-52-3;
104-40-5;84852-15-3
27193-28-8;
1806-26-4;
140-66-9

Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers
Octylphenol
Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs)
Octylphenol ethoxylate (OPEO) [1-18]

9002-93-1 various

Nonylphenol ethoxylate (NPEO)[1-18]

9016-45-9

variousp-Amminoazobenzene

60-09-3o-Aminoazotoluene

97-56-3

4-Aminobiphenyl
4-Aminobiphenyl

92-67-1
92-67-1

2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

99-55-82-Anisidine
2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

90-04-0
99-55-8

Benzidine

92-87-52-Anisidine
4-Chloroaniline

90-04-0
106-47-8

4-Chloro-2-toluidine

95-69-2

Benzidine

92-87-5p-Cresidina

120-71-8

2,4-Diamminoanisole
4-Chloroaniline

615-05-4
106-47-8

4,4'-Diaminodiphenylmethane

101-77-9

2,4-Toluenediamine

95-80-73,3'-Dichlorobenzidine

91-94-1

3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

25

alternative name, o-anisidina

alternative name, o-anisidina

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Categories
Carcinogenic aromatic amines
BiocidesBiocidesDimethylf
othersumarateenzenes
nes and andtoluenes
toluenes- chlorobenzenes- chlorobenzenes
Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes - chlorobenzenes

SubstancesCAS

3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

119-90-4

3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine

119-93-7

3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane

838-88-0

4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)

101-14-4

2-Naphthylamine

91-59-84,4'-Oxydianiline

101-80-44,4'-Thiodianiline

139-65-1

2-Toluidine

95-53-4

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

137-17-7

2,4-Xylidine

95-68-1

2,6-Xylidine

87-62-7

Dimethylfumarate (DMFu)

624-49-7

Notes

All biocides NOT present in EU Regulation 528/2012
and subsequent amendments are forbidden

Monochlorobenzene
Monochlorobenzene

108-90-7
108-90-7

Dichlorobenzene, mixed isomers

25321-22-6

1,2-Dichlorobenzene
Dichlorobenzene, mixed isomers

95-50-1
25321-22-6

1,3-Dichlorobenzene

541-73-1

1,2-Dichlorobenzene
1,4-Diclhorobenzene

95-50-1
106-46-7

Trichlorobenzene, mixed isomers

12002-48-1

1,3-Dichlorobenzene

541-73-1

1,2,3-Trichlorobenzene

87-61-6

1,2,4-Triclhorobenzene
1,4-Diclhorobenzene

120-82-1
106-46-7

1,3,5-trichlorobenzene

108-70-3

Tetrachlorobenzene, all isomers:
1,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene

634-66-2

1,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene

634-90-2

26© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.
1,2,4,5-Tetrachlorobenzene
95-94-3

Categories
Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes - chlorobenzenes

SubstancesCAS

1,2,3,5-Tetrachlorobenzene

634-90-2

1,2,4,5-Tetrachlorobenzene

95-94-3

Pentachlorobenzene

608-93-5

Hexachlorobenzene

118-74-1

Monochlorotoluene, mixed isomers

25168-05-2

2-Chlorotoluene

95-49-83-Chlorotoluene108-41-8

4-Chlorotoluene

106-43-4

Dichlorotoluene, mixed isomers

29797-40-8

2,3-Dichlorotoluene

32768-54-0

2,4-Dichlorotoluene

95-73-8

2,5-Dichlorotoluene

19398-61-9

2,6-Dichlorotoluene118-69-4

3,4-Dichlorotoluene

95-75-0

Notes

Trichlorotoluenes:
2,3,6-Trichlorotoluene

2077-46-5

a,a,a-trichlorotoluene

98-07-7

Tetrachlorotolueni:
a,a,a,2-Tetrachlorotoluene

2136-89-2

a,a-2,6-Tetrachlorotoluene

81-19-6a,a,a,4-Tetrachlorotoluene

5216-25-1

Pentachlorotoluene877-11-2

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Categories
Chlorophenols - Chlorinated phenols
Allergenic dyes

Vinylchloride monomer

Substances

CAS

Trichlorophenol (TriCP), mixed isomers

25167-82-2

2,3,5-Trichlorophenol

933-78-8

2,3,6-Trichlorophenol

933-75-5

2,4,5-Trichlorofenol

95-95-4

2,4,6-Trichlorofenol

88-06-2

3,4,5-Trichlorofenol

609-19-8

Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), mixed isomers

25167-83-3

2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol

4901-51-3

2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol

58-90-2

2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol

935-95-5

Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

87-86-5

Vinyl chloride

75-01-4

Pigment Red 104

12656-85-8

Disperse Blue 32475-46-9

Disperse Blue 73179-90-6

Disperse Blue 26

3860-63-7

Disperse Blue 35

12222-75-2

Disperse Blue 10212222-97-8

Disperse Blue 10612223-01-7

Disperse Blue 124

61951-51-7

Disperse Brown 1

23355-64-8

Disperse Orange 1

2581-69-3

Disperse Orange 3

730-40-5

Disperse Orange 37/59/76

12223-33-5

Disperse Red 1

2872-52-8

Disperse Red 112872-48-2

Disperse Red 17

3179-89-3

Disperse Yellow 1

119-15-3

Disperse Yellow 96373-73-5

Disperse Yellow 3912236-29-2

Disperse Yellow 49

54824-37-2

Disperse Orange 37/76

13301-61-6

Notes

28
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Categories
Categories
Carcinogenic
Carcinogenicdyes dyes
FluorinatedFluorinatedFluorinated compounds
compounds
compounds
BannedBanneddyes (others)
dyes (others)(others) PFOS/PFOA
PFOS/PFOA
ated
mpounds
compounds(others)(others)

Substances
Substances

CAS

Notes

CAS

Notes

Acid Red 26

3761-53-3

BasicRed
Red269Acid

569-61-9
3761-53-3

Basic
BasicViolet
Red 914632-99-5
569-61-9

DirectBlack 14
38
Basic Violet

1937-37-7
632-99-5

Direct Blue
Black638

2602-46-2
1937-37-7

Direct Red
Blue 286573-58-0
2602-46-2

Disperse
Blue
Direct Red
28 1

2475-45-8
573-58-0

Disperse Orange
Blue 1 11

82-28-02475-45-8

Disperse Yellow
Orange311

2832-40-8
82-28-0

Pigment
DisperseYellow
Yellow34
31344-37-2
2832-40-8

Disperse
Yellow34
3
Pigment Yellow

2832-40-8
1344-37-2

Disperse Yellow
Orange3149

85136-74-9
2832-40-8

AcidVioletOrange
49
Disperse
149

1624-09-3
85136-74-9

Basic Blue 26
Acid Violet 49

2580-56-5
1624-09-3

Basic Violet 1
Basic Blue 26

8004-87-3
2580-56-5

Basic Violet 3
Basic Violet 1

548-62-98004-87-3

Navy blue
Basic Violet 3

548-62-9118685-33-9

Perfluorooctane
sulfonate (PFOS)
Navy blue

1763-23-1
118685-33-9

Perfluorooctanoic
acid (PFOA)
Perfluorooctane sulfonate(PFOS)

335-67-1
1763-23-1

PFAS chemicals
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)

335-67-1

Perfluoro hexane sulfonate (PFHxS)PFAS chemicals

355-46-4 / 432-50-7

Perfluorohexanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFHxS)
Perfluoro hexane sulfonate (PFHxS)

82382-12-15
355-46-4 / 432-50-7

Perfluoroheptanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFHpS)
Perfluorohexanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFHxS)

68555-66-8
82382-12-15

Perfluorodecanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFDS)
Perfluoroheptanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFHpS)

2806-15-7
68555-66-8

Perfluorodecanesulfonate Na-salt (L-PFDS)

2806-15-7

29© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories
Fluorinated compounds (others)
Fluorinated compounds (others)

Substances

CAS

Potassium henicosafluorodecanesulphonate(PFDS-K)

2806-16-8

1-Decanesulfonic acid,
1,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8,9,9 ,10,10,10heneicosafluoro-, ammonium salt (PFDS-NH4)67906-42-7

Perfluoroheptane sulfonic acid (PFHpS)

375-92-8

Perfluorodecane sulfonic acid (PFDS)

335-77-3

Perfluoro-3,7-dimethyloctanoic acid (PF-3,7-DMOA)

172155-07-6

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorooctane sulfonic acid
(1H,1H,2H,2H-PFOS)

27619-97-2

2H,2H,3H,3H-Perfluoroundecanoic acid (H4PFUnA)

34598-33-9

8:2 Fluorotelomer sulfonic acid (8:2 FTS)

39108-34-4

Perfluorooctane sulfonamide (PFOSA)

754-91-6

N-Methyl perfluorooctane sulfonamide (N-Me-FOSA)

31506-32-8

N-Ethyl perfluorooctane sulfonamide (N-Et-FOSA)

4151-50-2

N-Methyl perfluorooctane sulfonamidoethanol (N-MeFOSE)

24448-09-7

N-Ethyl perfluorooctane sulfonamidoethanol (N-EtFOSE)

1691-99-2

Notes

375-73-5 59933-66-3
749861-23-2

Perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS)

29420-49-3

Perfluorobutanesulfonate K-salt (PFHxS-K)
Fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs) F(CF2)nCH2CH2OH
1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorohexane-1-ol (4:2 FTOH)

2043-47-2

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-octanol (6:2 FTOH)

647-42-7

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-decanol (8:2 FTOH)

678-39-7

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorododecane-1-o (10:2 FTOH)

865-86-1ers) Fluorinated compounds (others)

Olefins fluorotelomer(FTOs)
1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorooctylacrylate (6:2 FTA)

17527-29-6

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorodecylacrylate (8:2 FTA)

27905-45-9

1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluorododecylacrylate (10:2 FTA)

17741-60-5
307-35-7

Perfluorooctanesulfonyl Fluoride (PFOSF)
Perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids and salts (PFCA)
Perfluorobutanoic acid (PFBA)

375-22-4

Perfluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA)

307-24-4

Perfluorononanoic acid (PFNA)

30

375-95-1© Camera Nazionaledella Moda Italiana. Artisticacidand (HPFHpA)
literary rights reserved. Reproduction
in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.
7H-Dodecafluoroheptanoic
1546-95-8

Categories
Fluorinated compounds (others)

Substances

CAS

Perfluorononanoic acid (PFNA)

375-95-1

7H-Dodecafluoroheptanoic acid (HPFHpA)

1546-95-8

2H,2H-Perfluorodecanoic acid (H2PFDA)

27854-31-5

Perfluoropentanoic acid (PFPeA)

2706-90-3

Perfluoroheptanoic acid (PFHpA)

375-85-9

Perfluorodecanoic acid (PFDA)

335-76-2

Perfluoroundecanoic acid (PFUnA)

2058-94-8

Perfluorododecanoic acid (PFDoA)

307-55-1

Perfluorotridecanoic acid (PFTrA)

72629-94-8

Perfluorotetradecanoic acid (PFTeA)

376-06-7

Monobutyltin compounds (MBT)

2273-43-0
various

Monooctyltin (MOT)15231-57-9

Dibutyltin (DBT)

1002-53-5

Dibutyltin dichloride (DBTC)

683-18-1

Dibutyltin hydrogen borate (DBB)

75113-37-0

Dibutyltin compounds (DOT)

various

For
mald
ehyd
e

Organotin compounds

Dioctyltin (DOT)

HP,

Notes

15231-44-4

Tributyltin compounds (TBT)

VariousvariousTributyltin (TBT)

56573-85-4

Bis(tributyltin) oxide (TBTO)

56-35-9Triphenyltin Compounds (TPhT)

various

Triphenyltin (TPT)668-34-8

Tetrabutyl tin compounds (TeBT)

1461-25-2
various

Tetra octyltin compounds

variousTricyclohexyltin (TCyHT)

various

Trioctyltin (TOT)250252-89-2
various

Tripropyltin (TPT)

variousTributyltin (TMT)

various

Dimethyltin (DMT)

variousFormaldehyde

50-00-0

31

Benzylbutylphthalate (BBP)
85-68-7© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

For
mald
CategoriesehydePhthalates - BBP, DEHP,
DIBP, DBP, DINP

Substances

CAS

Formaldehyde

50-00-0

Benzylbutylphthalate (BBP)

85-68-7

Bis(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP)

117-81-7

Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP)

84-69-5

Dibutylphthalate (DBP)

84-74-2

Notes

28553-12-0
68515-48-0

Diisononylphthalate (DINP)

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (IPA)

Phthalates (others)

Esters of phthalic acid
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl
esters, C7-rich (DIHP)

71888-89-6

1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched
and linear alkyl esters (DHNUP)

68515-42-4

1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester,branched and linear (DnPP)

84777-06-0

Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP)

117-82-8

Diisodecylphthalate (DIDP)

26761-40-0
68515-49-1

Dimethyl phthalate (DMP)

131-11-3

Diethyl phthalate (DEP)

84-66-2Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP)

84-75-3

Dioctylphthalate (DNOP)

117-84-0

Di-iso-pentylphthalte (DIPP)

605-50-5

Dipentyl phthalate (DnPP)

131-18-0

N-pentyl-isopentylphthalate (nPIPP)

776297-69-9

Diisooctyl phthalate (DIOP)

27554-26-3

Dinonyl phthalate (DNP)

84-76-4

Dipropyl phthalate (DprP)

131-16-8

Dicyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP)

84-61-7

Di-N-hexyl phthalate (DHxP)

68515-50-4

Polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs)
Benzo(a)pyrene (BaP)

50-32-8

Benzo(e)pyrene (BeP)

192-97-2

Benzo(a)anthracene (BaA)

56-55-3

Chrysene (CHR)

218-01-9

Benzo(b)fluoranthene (BbFA)

205-99-2

Benzo(j)fluoranthene (BjFA)

205-82-3

Benzo(k)fluoranthene (BkFA)

207-08-9

Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene (DBAhA)

53-70-3

Group 1

Group 1)ons (IPA)

Group 1

Benzo(g,h,i)perylene

32

191-24-2

Indeno(1,2,3-cd)pyrene© Camera Nazionaledella Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction193-39-5
in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories
Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (IPA)
Isocyanates
al metal
ontentExtractable Metal Content(textiles / leather)

Extractable
Metal
Content(textiles /leather)

Substances

CAS

Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene (DBAhA)

53-70-3

Benzo(g,h,i)perylene

191-24-2

Indeno(1,2,3-cd)pyrene

193-39-5

Cyclopenta[c,d]pyrene

27208-37-3

Dibenzo[a,e]pyrene

192-65-4

Dibenzo[a,h]pyrene

189-64-0

Dibenzo[a,j]pyrene

189-55-9

Dibenzo[a,l]pyrene

191-30-0

1-Methylpyrene

2381-21-7

Acenaphthene83-32-9

Acenaphthalene

208-96-8

Anthracene120-12-7

Fluoranthene

206-44-0

Fluorene

86-73-7

Naphthalene

91-20-3

Phenanthrene

85-01-8

Pyrene129-00-0

Diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate (MDI)

101-68-8Diphenylmethane-2,2'-diisocyanate (2,2-MDI)

2536-05-2

Diphenylmethane-2,4-diisocyanate (2,4-MDI)

5873-54-1

MDI mixed isomers

26447-40-5

1,1'-Methylenebis(4-isocyanatobenzene)

9016-87-9

Hexamethylene diisocyanate (HMDI)

822-06-0

Methylene-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (4,4-MDI)

5124-30-1

Antimony (Sb)7440-36-0

Arsenic (As)7440-38-2

Cadmium (Cd)7440-43-9

Chromium (Cr)7440-47-3

Chromium, VI (CrVI)

18540-29-9

Cobalt (Co)7440-48-4

Copper (Cu)7440-50-8

Lead (Pb)7439-92-1

Mercury (Hg)7439-97-6

Nickel (Ni)7440-02-0

Arsenic

7440-38-2

33

Notes

Group 1

Mercury (Hg)7439-97-6© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories
Total metal
content
Nitrosamines

NiNickckelelrelerele
ase
ase
from
fro
mem
tal
met

Short Chain Orth
Chlorinated oph
Paraffins - enyl
Flame
phe
Retardants nol

Substances

CAS

Arsenic

7440-38-2

Mercury (Hg)7439-97-6

Cadmium (Cd)7440-43-9

Lead (Pb)7439-92-1

Nickel (Ni)7440-02-0

N-nitrosodibutylamine (NDBA)

924-16-3

N-nitrosodiethylamine (NDEA)

55-18-5N-nitrosodimethylamine (NDMA)

62-75-9N-nitrosodipropylamine (NDPA)

621-64-7

N-nitroso-N-ethylaniline (NEPhA)

614-64-6

N-nitroso-N-methylaniline

614-00-6

N-nitrosomorpholine (NMOR)

59-89-2

N-nitrosopiperidine (NPIP)

100-75-4

N-nitrosopyrrolidine

930-55-2

o-Phenylphenol

90-43-7

2,2-Bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol

3296-90-0

Bis (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate5412-25-9

Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins C10 to C13(SCCP)

85535-84-8

Hexabromocyclododecane HBCDD and all isomers

25637-99-4

Notes

Flame retardants
Flame retardants

Polybrominated biphenyl ethers (PBDE)
Tetra-bromodiphenyl ether (TetraBDE)

40088-47-9 ; 5436-431

Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE)

32534-81-9

Hexa-bromodiphenyl ether (HexaBDE)

36483-60-0

Hepta-bromodiphenyl ether (HeptaBDE)

68928-80-3

Octa-bromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE)

32536-52-0

Deca-bromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE)

1163-19-5

Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA)

79-94-7

Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) bis(2,3dibromopropyl ether)

21850-44-2

Tris(aziridinyl)phosphineoxide (TEPA)

545-55-12,2',3,3',4,4',5,5',6-Nonabromodiphenyl Ether (NonaBDE)

63936-56-1

Tris(1,3-dichloro-2-propyl) phosphate (TDCPP)

13674-87-8

Tris(2-chloro-1-methylethyl) phosphate (TCPP)

13674-84-5

Tri-o-cresyl phosphate78-30-834© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

Categories
Flame retardants
Solvents

SubstancesCAS

Tris(2-chloroethyl) phosphate (TCEP)

115-96-8

Tris(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS)

126-72-7

2-Ethylhexyl 2,3,4,5-Tetrabromobenzoate (TBB)

183658-27-7

bis(2-ethylhexyl) tetrabromophthalate (TBPH)

26040-51-7

1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP)

872-50-4

N,N - Dimethylacetamide (DMAc)

127-19-5

N,N-Dimethylformamide (DMFo)

68-12-2

Notes

Chlorinated solvents

Chlorinated ethanes, all isomers
1,1,1-Trichloroethane

71-55-6

1,1,2-Trichloroethane79-00-5

1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane630-20-6

1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane

79-34-5

Hexachloroethane

67-72-1

1,1-Dichloroethane

75-34-3

1,2-Dichloroethane

107-06-2

Dichloromethane75-09-2

Trichloroethylene

79-01-6

Trichloromethane (chloroform)

67-66-3

Carbon tetrachloride

56-23-5

1,1-Dichloroethylene

75-35-4

Benzyl chloride

100-44-7

35© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

11. BIBLIOGRAPHY
10.1 European laws•

General product safety directive (GPSD), Directive 2001/95/EC;•

Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 REACH on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and 		
restriction of Chemicals;

10.2 International laws•

Argentina – Resolution 7/2009;•

Argentina – Resolution 583/2008;•

Canada – Canada Consumer Product Safety Act (CCPSA);•

Canada – Canada Hazardous Products Act (Surface Coating Materials Regulations SOR/2010-224);•

Canada – Canadian Environmental Production Act (CEPA) 1999;•

China - GB18401 - 2010 (Textile Product);•

China – GB20400 – 2006 (Leather and fur);•

China – GB25036-2010 (Children’s canvas rubber footwear);•

China – GB25038-2010 (Rubber Shoes);•

Egypt – Ministerial Decrees no. 961/2012;•

Indonesia – Ministry of Industy’s directive no. 72/M-IND/PER/7/2012;•

Indonesia – Partial Requirements of Indonesia National Standard (SNI) for Towels;•

Japan – Japanese Law 112;•

Korea - Safety Quality Mark Act (Annex 1 Textile Products for infant);•

Korea - Safety Quality Mark Act (Annex 3 Leather Products);•

Korea – Self Regulatory Safety Confirmation Act (Annex 4 Textile Products for Infants);•

Saudi Arabia – SASO GSO 1956;•

Taiwan – CNS 15290 Safety of Textiles (General requirements);

36© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

•

Turkey – Official Gazette No 27893;•

Turkey – Official Gazette No 28431;•

USA - Californa Proposition 65;•

USA - Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act CPSIA (Public Law 110-314);•

USA - Customs and Border protection (CBP);•

USA - Federal Hazardous Substances Act (15 U.S.C. §§1261-1278);•

USA - National Waste Minimization Program;•USA - Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970;•

USA - Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA);•

USA - Washington Children’s Safe Product Act (CSPA);•

Vietnam – Circular 32/2009/TT-BCT;

10.3 European Technical Standards•

Regulation (EC) No 66/2010 Ecolabel;•

UNI/TR 11359 “Safety management of textiles, clothing, furniture, footwear, leather and accessories”;•

CEN/TR 16741 “Textiles and textile products – Guidance on health and environmental issues rela-		
ted to chemical content of textile products intended for clothing, interior textiles and upholstery”;

10.4 International Technical standards•

Japan – Industrial voluntary scheme;•

USA – AafA American apparel & footwear association;

10.5 Main private standards

37© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Artistic and literary rights reserved. Reproduction in any form, storage or transcription by any means are prohibited.

These Guidelines have been edited by a working group formed by:
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
Associazione Tessile e Salute
In collaboration with
Sistema Moda Italia
With the contribution ofFederchimica
UNIC Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria
This document is a free translation into English of the original Italian version “Linee Guida sui
requisiti eco-tossicologici per gli articoli di abbigliamento, pelletteria, calzature ed accessori” . In
the event of a conflict in interpretation, reference should be made to the Italian version, which isthe authentic text.

© Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Proprietà artistica e letteraria riservata. Riproduzione in qualsiasi forma, memorizzazione o trascrizione con qualunque mezzo, sono vietate.