2019. 10. 2 Wed. — 12. 16 Mon. The National Art Center, Tokyo
Organized by: The National Art Center, Tokyo ; Nikkei Inc.
With the special cooperation of: CartierWith the support of: Embassy of France / Institut français du Japon
With the sponsorship of: TAISEI CORPORATION ; YAMAGEN CO.,LTD
With the cooperation of: Kawashima Selkon Textiles Co., Ltd. ; Utsunomiya City / Oya Stone Material Cooperative Union ;Geo Nexus Co., Ltd. ; SALIOT ; THE EUGENE Studio
Exhibition Design: New Material Research Laboratory

List of Exhibits• Information in the list of works is arranged in the following order:
catalog number of each piece, title, year of production, material, and collection.
• Unless otherwise indicated, pieces belong to the Cartier Collection.
• The order of display may differ from that found in the exhibition catalog.
• There may be changes to pieces exhibited.

■ Introduction
0-000

Hiroshi Sugimoto
Time Reversed
2018
Mixed media (Restored antique clock from1908 altered to turn counterclockwise by
the artist [Manufactured by Fontana Cesare,
Milan])
Private collection■

Prologue:
Space of Time: Mystery and Prism Clocks

Mystery clocks, called “marvels of horology”, and prism clocks, are based ona skillful use of optical illusions and light. For the mystery clocks, the two
hands of the clock appear to float in the dial as if there were no connection
to a mechanism. The movement is hidden within the base or by othersurrounding decoration.
It takes a minimum of several months to complete a mystery clock. They
are created thanks to the cooperation of many craftsmen including goldsmiths,
enamelers, polishers, and, of course, watchmakers. Although this mysterious
complication has now been disclosed, the mystery clock has been madethroughout the generations, and continues to be treasured as an art piece.

0-001

0-003

Model A mystery clock

Large Portique mystery clock

Cartier Paris
circa 1924
Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal,
nephrite, enamel, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier Paris
1923
Yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal, onyx,
black enamel, coral, diamonds

0-004
0-002

Model A mystery clock
Cartier Paris
1961
Platinum, yellow gold, white gold, rock
crystal, diamonds
Private collection

Mystery clock with single axle
Cartier Paris
1921
Yellow gold, platinum, citrine, onyx, white
enamel, black enamel, diamonds

0-005

0-010

Mystery clock with single axle

Screen mystery clock

Cartier Paris
1922
Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal, onyx,
turquoise-blue enamel, black enamel,diamonds

Cartier New York
1926
Platinum, yellow gold, crystal, onyx,
moonstones, white enamel, black enamel,diamonds

0-006

0-011

Mystery clock with single axle

Pocket watch with standCartier Paris
1956
Yellow gold, platinum, smoky quartz,
diamonds

Cartier
2016
White gold, steel, sapphire, blacktranslucent enamel (pocket watch)
Mysterious double tourbillon complication
Rock crystal, black jade, sterling silver (stand)
Private collection

0-007

Mystery clock
Cartier
1997
White gold, one 54.40-carat amethyst(dial), diamonds, chrysoprase, agate,
mother-of-pearl (base), rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

0-012

Prism clock
Cartier Paris
circa 1955
Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds
Monaco Princely Palace Collection

0-008

0-013

Mystery clock with single axle

Prism clock

Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, citrine, agate, onyx, diamonds

Cartier
1981
Silver, rock crystal
Private collection

0-009

Mystery clock with single axle
Cartier
2015
White gold, amethyst (dial), agate, onyx,
turquoises, diamonds

0-014

Prism clock
Cartier
2016
Silver, black jadeMonaco Princely Palace Collection■

Chapter 1.
Material Transformation and Colors

In Chapter 1, you will explore how as a jeweler Cartier works with materials,
be it metals or stones, using its exceptional savoir-faire in order to create
the most innovative designs.
For instance, the Maison insisted upon the use of platinum in jewelry as away of accentuating diamonds. The materials are not limited to gemstones,
but on occasion include bird feathers and other organic substances.
The combinations of gemstones creating vivid and unprecedented strong
color contrasts were first introduced to the Cartier repertoire in the early
20th century. In more recent years, a new pursuit of more delicate color
combinations has emerged.
Cartier’s unique way of combining colors has always been linked to the
exploration of new creative approaches to jewelry design.

1. Metal Techniques:

Platinum / Steel / Three Golds /Gold Techniques

Cartier Garland style jewelry was first
introduced at the very end of the 19th
century.
Platinum was used to set theseelegant designs, which were often
presented in the form of tiaras,
necklaces, and brooches or stomacher
brooches.
Originally, silver and gold were used
to set stones. However, as soft metals,
greater amounts of material is required
for their settings, making jewelry lookheavy. Moreover, silver also darkens
over time. Platinum, on the other hand,is much harder by nature and is moresuitable for use on fine and delicate
pieces, such as flowered branches,bows, and lace watermarks.
Platinum’s pure whiteness and thebrilliance of its surface also enhanced
the dazzle of diamonds under theelectric lamps that were being
introduced in the ball rooms at the
time.

1-001

Tiara
Cartier Paris, special order
1905
Platinum, diamonds

1-002

Lily stomacher brooch
Cartier Paris, special order
1906
Platinum, diamonds

1-003

Russian tiara
Cartier Paris
1908
Platinum, fifteen pear-shaped diamonds
totalling approximately 19 carats, natural
pearls, diamonds

1-004

Necklace
Cartier
1990
Platinum, diamonds

1-005

Necklace
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one 17.01-carat modified shieldshaped step-cut diamond, diamonds
Private collection

1-006

Tiara
Cartier Paris, special order
1914
Platinum, blackened steel, diamonds,
rubies

1-007

Santos de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
1981
Steel, yellow gold, one blue spinel

1-008

BraceletCartier
1987
Yellow gold, steel
Private collection

1-009

Necklace
Cartier
1988
Steel, yellow gold, white gold, pink gold

1-010

BraceletCartier
1986
Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold,
diamonds

1-011

Ring
Cartier
2004
Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold

1-012

Trinity bracelet
Cartier Paris
1977
Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold

1-013

1-019

Ring

Necklace

Cartier
2005
Yellow gold, pink gold, white gold
Private collection

Cartier
2010
Platinum, sculpted petrified wood, brown
diamonds, onyx, white cultured pearls,
grey cultured pearls, emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

1-014

Oval lighter
Cartier
circa 1974
Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold

1-015

Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier2013
Yellow gold, yellow gold granulation(panther motif), diamonds, leather strap

1-016

Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier2014
Yellow gold, gold-paste grisaille enamel(panther motif), diamonds, leather strap
Mysterious hour and minute complication

1-017

Ronde Louis Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, yellow gold and platinum
filigree (panther motifs), dark blue lacquer,
black lacquer, emeralds, diamonds, leather
strap

2. Stone Techniques:

Glyptics (hardstone carving,
including fossilized wood) /Engraving / Stringing

One quality seen throughout all of the
Cartier creations is the incomparable
technique of the in-house artisans.
One technique, for example, is“glyptic” art, an extremely demanding
technique in which hard stones—
jade, agate, jasper, quartz, fossilized
wood, and more—are engraved.
Stones that have slumbered for eons
have been awoken and given newforms. The natural colors and patterns
are thoroughly examined, after
which the carving begins. The uniquecharacteristics of each miraculously
uncovered stone become the creative
starting point.
Today, Cartier takes every effort toensure this knowledge is passed on to
the next generation. It is one of thetechniques that supported the extensionof design possibilities in jewelry, suchas engraving (or use of engraved
gemstones which is originally an Indian
technique), and bead stringing.

1-018

Tiara
Cartier Paris, special order
1912
Platinum, carved rock crystal, diamonds

1-020

Necklace
Cartier
2017
Platinum, white gold, sculpted smoky
quartz, white cultured pearls, grey cultured
pearls, quartz, emeralds, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

1-021

Bulldog
Cartier
circa 1907
Carved smoky quartz, diamonds, chased
gold

1-022

BraceletCartier
2009
Platinum, sculpted black jade, one ruby,natural pearls, diamonds
Private collection

1-023

Necklace
Cartier
2016
White gold, lavender tanzanites,aquamarines, moonstones, onyx,
diamonds

1-024

Ring
Cartier
2016
White gold, lavender tanzanites,aquamarines, moonstones, onyx,
diamonds

1-025

Earrings
Cartier Paris
1937
Platinum, osmior, sapphires, diamonds

1-026

Ring
Cartier Paris
1948
Yellow gold, sapphires

1-027

Chimera bracelet
Cartier Paris
1983
Yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds

1-028

BraceletCartier
2015
Platinum, diamonds
Private collection

3. Artisanal Skills andDecorative Techniques:

Enamel / Mother-of-pearl /Kingfisher Feathers / Organic
Materials (rose petals, straw,etc.) / Hardstone Marquetry

Inlay or “marquetry” is a traditional
technique that has for a long time beenused for furniture and furnishings in
Europe.
Cartier utilized the same techniquewith its exquisite effect to decoratea cigarette case. In recent years, thistechnique has also been used todecorate watch dials.
Cartier explored new techniques in
its designs such as floral marquetry,
which is created with rose petals dyed, formed, and beautifully set like
paper art, or straw marquetry which
involves creating a motif by splitting
straw lengthwise and laying it fromedge to edge, or a rich variety of
exceptional enamel work including
guilloché enamel.

1-029

Desk clock with minute repeater
Cartier Paris
1910
Platinum, yellow gold, silver, agate,
translucent iron gray enamel over guilloché
ground, white enamel, one amethyst,
diamonds

1-030

Desk clock with strut
Cartier Paris
1914
Platinum, silver, gilded metal, translucent
yellow enamel over guilloché ground,white enamel, diamonds

1-031

Pill box
Cartier1972
Yellow gold, translucent Cartier red enamelover guilloché ground

1-032

Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier2012
White gold, grisaille enamel (tiger motif),
one sapphire, leather strap

1-033

BraceletCartier
2015
White gold, plique-à-jour enamel (dial),
obsidians, brown diamonds, tsavorite
garnets, onyx, diamonds

1-035

Desk clock with strut
Cartier Paris
1929
Ebonie, mother-of-pearl, coral, black
enamel, laque burgauté plaque depictinga Chinese landscape, one moonstone,
platinum, diamonds

1-036

Magnetic clock
Cartier
2016
White gold, lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl
marquetry, obsidian, onyx, sapphires,diamonds

1-037

Desk clock with strut
Cartier New York
1925
Rock crystal, yellow gold, kingﬁsher
feathers, black enamel, white enamel,
platinum, diamonds

1-038

Model A mystery clock
Cartier New York
1929
Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal, onyx,
kingfisher feathers, gilt brass, diamonds
Private collection

1-039

Ballon Bleu de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
2014
White gold, pink gold, floral marquetry(parrot motif), onyx, one emerald, one
sapphire, diamonds, leather strap

1-040

Box
Cartier
2017Black sycamore wood, blue straw
marquetry, iolites

Cartier
2017
Yellow gold, black enamel (panther spots
and nose), one sapphire, leather strap

1-043

Pendant
Cartier Paris, special order
1923
Platinum, one 121.02-carat cabochon-cut
sapphire from Ceylon, one 32.20-carat
carved emerald, one emerald, one
sapphire, diamonds

1-044

Necklace
Cartier
2007
White gold, one 13.68-carat emerald
drop from Colombia, emeralds, sapphires,diamonds
Private collection

1-045

BraceletCartier
2015
Platinum, one 85.42-carat oval-shaped
cabochon-cut black opal, sapphires,emeralds, blue-green tourmalines,
diamonds
Private collection

1-041

Cigarette case
Cartier Paris
1930
Yellow gold, lapis lazuli and turquoise
marquetry, lapis lazuli, one sapphire,diamonds

1-046

Necklace
Cartier
2016
Platinum, one 14.71-carat cushion-shaped
emerald from Colombia, emeralds, onyx,
diamonds

1-042

Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
2017
White gold, lapis lazuli, obsidian, agate,cacholong, diamonds, leather strap
Mysterious hour and minute complication
Private collection

4. The Cartier Color Palette:
Blue × Green / Black × Green /Red × Green / Red × Green ×Black / Tutti Frutti / Blue ×
Purple / Pastel

It was at the beginning of the 20th
century that rich color combinations
appeared in the Cartier color palette.

1-049

Earrings
Cartier
2017
Platinum, two sugarloaf emeralds from
Colombia totalling 7.48 carats, onyx,
diamonds
Private collection

1-050

BraceletCartier Paris
1925
Platinum, coral, onyx, diamonds

1-051

Ring
Cartier Paris
1974
White gold, platinum, coral, onyx,
diamonds

1-052

Necklace
Cartier
2017
Platinum, one 5.82-carat cabochon-cut
emerald from Zambia, coral, emeralds,
onyx, diamonds
Private collection

1-053

BroochCartier New York, special order
1925
Platinum, one 15.12-carat cabochon-cut
emerald, one 3.83-carat cushion-shaped
diamond, coral, black enamel, diamonds

1-054

BraceletCartier
2015
White gold, chrysoprase, onyx, coral,
diamonds
Private collection

1-055

Ring
Cartier
2015
White gold, one 30.69-carat round-shaped
cabochon-cut coral, chrysoprase, onyx,
coral, diamonds
Private collection

1-056
1-047

BroochCartier
1922
Platinum, emeralds, onyx, diamonds

1-048

Ring

1-034

Drive de Cartier wristwatch

Inspired by the Ballets Russes, uniquevivid combinations started to appear,such as blue and green - named the“peacock pattern” by Louis Cartier,but also red and black, blue and purple
or black and white, typical of Modern
style jewelry which preceded the Art
Deco style.
The Indian tradition of engravingstones to create images of leaves,
fruits and flowers inspired the creationof jewelry at Cartier from the 1920s
onwards combining carved rubies,
sapphires and emeralds. This aestheticcame to be known as Tutti Frutti(literally “all fruits”) after the 1970s.
Since the 1990s the Maison has
also explored new worlds of color thatare more delicate and nuanced. The
Maison has adopted a new approachto color that, rather than contrasts,
expands on similarities.

Cartier
2017
Platinum, one 12.71-carat sugarloaf
emerald from Colombia, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

Ring
Cartier
2017
Platinum, coral, emerald, onyx, black
lacquer, diamonds
Private collection

1-057

Tutti Frutti strap bracelet
Cartier Paris
1925
Platinum, sapphires, rubies, emeralds,
onyx, black enamel, diamonds

1-0581-067

Tutti Frutti strap bracelet

Necklace

Cartier New York, special order
1928
Platinum, rubies, emeralds, sapphires,black enamel, diamonds

Cartier
2003
Pink gold, amethysts, turquoises, diamonds

1-059

Necklace

1-068

Necklace
Cartier
2016
Platinum, white gold, two pear-shaped
emeralds from Colombia totalling 60.32
carats, emeralds, sapphires, rubies,
diamonds
Private collection

1-060

Necklace
Cartier
2017
White gold, emeralds, sapphires, rubies,
diamonds
Private collection

1-061

Hindu necklace
Cartier Paris, special order
1936, altered in 1963
Platinum, white gold, thirteen briolettecut sapphires totalling 146.9 carats, twoleaf-shaped carved sapphires totalling
93.25 carats, emeralds, sapphires, rubies,
diamonds

1-062

Ring
Cartier
2011
Platinum, one 15.26-carat leaf-shaped
carved emerald, emeralds, sapphires,
rubies, diamonds
Private collection

1-063

Ring
Cartier
2016
White gold, emeralds, sapphires, rubies,
diamonds
Private collection

1-064

Ring

Cartier
2006
Platinum, sapphires, blue-green sapphires,
colored sapphires, diamonds
Ms. Li Ying Kuo collection

1-069

Necklace
Cartier
2007
Platinum, white gold, one 16.35-caratoval-shaped cabochon-cut purple sapphire,
two oval-shaped cabochon-cut sapphires
totalling 23.44 carats, pink sapphires,
purple sapphires, rubies, diamonds
Private collection

1-070

Necklace
Cartier
2006
Platinum, one 44.61-carat cushion-shapedorange-yellow sapphire, one purple
sapphire, tanzanites, diamonds
Private collection

1-071

Necklace
Cartier2004
One 36.42-carat opal from Australia,
padparadsha (orangey pink) sapphires, one
yellow sapphire, sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

1-072

Ring
Cartier
2011
Platinum, one 2.77-carat brown diamond
set in a 21.24-carat amethyst, diamonds
Private collection

1-074

Necklace

Cartier
2017
Platinum, three carved emerald beads
totalling 28.83 carats, emeralds, sapphires,
rubies, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
2018
White gold, 22 baroque-shaped emeraldsfrom Afghanistan totalling 199.02
carats, spinels, garnets, onyx, turquoises,
diamonds
FAY CHEUNG collection

1-065

1-075

Bib necklace
Cartier Paris, special order
1947
Yellow gold, platinum, amethysts,
turquoises, diamonds

1-066

BraceletCartier Paris
1954
Platinum, yellow gold, one 45.98-carat
faceted amethyst, amethysts, turquoises,
diamonds

Earrings
Cartier
2018
White gold, two baroque-shaped emeraldsfrom Afghanistan totalling 10.87 carats,
spinels, garnets, onyx, turquoises,
diamonds
FAY CHEUNG collection■

Chapter 2.
Forms and Designs

In Chapter 2, we present topics regarding the innovation that lies in theessential forms of Cartier jewelry through several key words. For example, wewill focus on “Essential Lines” and “Spheres” and analyze the Maison’s longquest for pure lines and forms. We will also look into architectural elementsof jewelry design, as well as the way in which movement can be brought
into a piece, under the titles “New Architectures” and “Optics.” We will also
discover jewelry created from or inspired by accident under the title “Harmonyin Chaos”, and how the Maison seeks beauty wherever it might be, in fields
considered unrelated to the world of jewelry such as in the world of couture
or industry, under the title “Beauty All Around: Industrial and Couture Motifs”.

1. Essential Lines
Cartier aims to enhance the essential
through the design. The art ofcomposition lies entirely in the mixingof gems, exactness of proportions andinterplay of stone cuts that structures
the design, setting a rhythm andfreeing the composition’s power of
abstraction. The lively movements andrhythms created by jewels can provide
certain clues for reinterpretationof natural phenomena, such as theswaying of the water’s surface, or
the upward spiral of smoke. In the
production of wristwatches, forexample, the harmony of form andvolume, which is created by the subtle
lines of the case, is key for the design.

2-001

Tiara
Cartier Paris
1908
Platinum, diamonds

2-002

Baignoire Hypnose wristwatch
Cartier2009
White gold, diamonds, fabric strap

2-003

BraceletCartier
2018
White gold, diamonds

2-004

Hair ornament
Cartier Paris
1902
Platinum, diamonds

2-005

BroochCartier Paris
1909
Platinum, diamonds

2-006

BroochCartier Paris
1908
Platinum, emeralds, diamonds

2-007

Necklace
Cartier
2009
Platinum, white gold, one 10.06-carat
pear-shaped emerald, diamonds
Private collection

2-008 (On display from mid-October onwards)

BraceletCartier
2008
Platinum, diamonds
Private collection

2-009

Lozenge brooch
Cartier Paris
1912
Platinum, sapphires, natural pearls,
diamonds

2-010

Earrings
Cartier
2016
Platinum, white gold, one 12.43-carat
pear-shaped sapphire from Ceylon,
one 8.42-carat pear-shaped diamond,diamonds
Private collection

2-011

Necklace
Cartier
2018
Platinum, white gold, three oval-shaped
sapphires from Ceylon totalling 19.73
carats, diamonds
Private collection

2-012

Necklace
Cartier
2014
White gold, six pear-shaped diamonds
totalling 13.37 carats, rubies from Burma,
diamonds
Private collection

2-013

Santos-Dumont wristwatch
Cartier Paris
1912
Yellow gold, pink gold, one sapphire,
leather strap

2-014

Tank wristwatch
Cartier Paris
1920
Platinum, yellow gold, one sapphire,
leather strap

2-015

Tonneau wristwatch
Cartier Paris
1915
Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphires, leather
strap

2-016

Tortue wristwatch
Cartier Paris
1919
Platinum, yellow gold, one sapphire,
leather strap

2-017

Grand Tank Cintrée wristwatch
Cartier London
1924
Yellow gold, one sapphire, leather strap
Monaco Princely Palace Collection

2-018

Wristwatch with curved bezel
Cartier Paris
1965
Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

2-019

Tank Louis Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
circa 1979
Yellow gold, one sapphire, leather strap

2-020

Ellipse wristwatch
Cartier
1976
Yellow gold, pink gold, one sapphire,
leather strap

2-021

Tank Française wristwatch
Cartier
2005
Yellow gold, one sapphire

2-022

Ballon Bleu de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier2009
Steel, one spinel
Monaco Princely Palace Collection

2-023

Drive de Cartier wristwatch
Cartier
2016
Pink gold, one sapphire, leather strap
Private collection

and reveal an unexpected power of
evocation, reminding us of industrial
items or delectable berries.

2-024

BraceletCartier Paris
1937
Platinum, white gold, silver, lapis lazuli,
turquoises, diamonds

2-025

BraceletCartier Paris
1938
Yellow gold, lapis lazuli

2-026

Ring
Cartier
2015
Pink gold, one moon quartz, turquoises,
lapis lazuli, aquamarines, chalcedonies,
sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

Emblematic of Cartier’s shaperepertoire, spheres amplify the volume
of a design. Made of colored stones
or gold beads, they emphasize thearchitectural dimension of jewels

Cartier
2017
Platinum, one 93.81-carat cabochon-cut
rubellite, onyx, diamonds

BraceletCartier New Yorkcirca 1940
Yellow gold, silver, sapphires

Cartier Paris
1930
Platinum, rock crystal, diamonds

2-033

BraceletCartier Paris
1930
Platinum, rock crystal, diamonds

2-034

Ring
Cartier
2006
White gold, diamonds

BraceletCartier
2015
White gold, one 66.09-carat cushionshaped step-cut emerald from Colombia,
rock crystal, onyx, diamonds

2-028

Ring
Cartier London
1970
Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds

2-036

Ring
Cartier New York
1935
Platinum, diamonds, sapphires

2-029

BraceletCartier
2010
Pink gold, pink opals, onyx, pink sapphires,black sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

3. New Architecture:
Geometric / Organic

Cartier designers always take into
consideration volume and threedimensionality, which are important
aspects in jewelry design.
In fact, the architectural form anddetails representative of every era haveinspired structural elements of Cartierjewelry design. For example, 1920s
Art Deco interior decoration design, orthe high-rise buildings towering overcontemporary urban space.
Designs also become architectural
structures themselves, actual reduced
constructions, marked by the effects
of symmetry and parallelism or, on thecontrary, by asymmetry, suggesting
perspective and movement.

Necklace
Cartier London, special order
1932
Platinum, one 143.23-carat cushionshaped emerald, diamonds

2-042

Ring
Cartier
2012
Platinum, one 35.73-carat square-shaped
green tourmaline, diamonds
Private collection

2-032

Bracelet

2-035
2-027

2-030

2. Spheres

2-031

Necklace

2-037

Ring
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one 11.11-carat cushion-shaped
cabochon-cut sapphire from Burma, onyx,
diamonds

2-038

Ring
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one 6.03-carat square-shaped
diamond, black lacquer, diamonds
Private collection

2-039

Ring
Cartier
2013
White gold, one 33.22-carat oval-shaped
brown tourmaline, obsidian, diamonds
Private collection

2-040

Ring
Cartier
circa 2005
White gold, diamonds

2-041

Ring
Cartier Paris, special order
1949
Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, onyx

2-043

Ring
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one 19.02-carat rectangularshaped cut-cornered green tourmaline,
rock crystal, diamonds
Private collection

2-044

Ring
Cartier
2016
White gold, one 8.66-carat hexagonalshaped brown diamond, diamonds, smoky
quartzPrivate collection

2-045

Ring
Cartier New York, special order
1934
Platinum, one 12.08-carat sugarloaf
cabochon-cut emerald, emeralds

2-046

Ring
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one 22.75-carat cushion-shaped
cabochon-cut sapphire from Ceylon,
diamonds

2-047

Ring
Cartier
2017
Platinum, one 32.35-carat hexagonalshaped cabochon-cut sapphire, raw
emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

2-048

Necklace
Cartier
1937
Platinum, rubies, diamonds
Al Thani Collection

2-049

Necklace
Cartier
2012
Platinum, 13 emerald drops from Colombia
totalling 348.23 carats, diamonds
Private collection

2-050

BraceletCartier2012
White gold, black lacquer, diamonds

2-051

2-062

2-069

2-078

Ring

Ring

Vanity case

BraceletCartier
2013
White gold, black lacquer, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, red lacquer
Private collection

Cartier Paris
1929
Pink gold, black enamel, cream enamel,
one diamond

Cartier
2003
White gold, diamonds

2-070

Bracelet

2-079
2-052

Ring
Cartier2012
White gold, diamonds
Private collection

2-053

Ring
Cartier
2013
White gold, lapis lazuli, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

2-054

Ring
Cartier
circa 2002
White gold, pink sapphires

2-055

BraceletCartier2012
White gold, amethysts, diamonds
Private collection

2-056

Earrings
Cartier
1990
Yellow gold, diamonds

2-057

Ring
Cartier
1995
Yellow gold, diamonds

2-058

BraceletCartier
2015
Pink gold, diamonds

2-059

BraceletCartier
2017
Platinum, one 19.33-carat orangish natural
pearl, one 18.12-carat white natural pearl,cultured pearls, diamonds
Property of Mr. Pierre Chen

2-060

BraceletCartier
2015
Pink gold, black lacquer, diamonds

2-061

Ring
Cartier
2015
Pink gold, black jade, diamonds
Private collection

4. Optics (Visual Effects):

Motion and Kinetics / Light andTransparency

In its designs, Cartier has often pursued
the theme of movement, often asking
the question: “How can we releasejewelry from its still state, and convey
a sense of movement to the viewer?”
Cartier responds to this challenge withvisual effects borrowed from kinetic
art.
Designs that skillfully utilize
geometric forms, mirror-like structures,and contrasting colors generate
optical illusions and impart a sense of
movement to the viewer.
This search for movement has led
Cartier to create a series of playful
jewelry pieces, for instance bracelets
and rings made of articulated
components that move with the finger
or wrist of the wearer. Such creations
prove the potential of jewelry design.

2-063

Chocker
Cartier Paris
1903
Platinum, diamonds, moiré

2-064

BraceletCartier
2014
White gold, black lacquer, diamonds

2-065

BraceletCartier
2014
Platinum, onyx, one emerald, diamonds
Private collection

2-066

BraceletCartier
2015
Yellow gold, rock crystal, onyx, emeralds,
diamonds
Private collection

2-067

Pillbox necklace
Cartier
2016
White gold, one 5.69-carat cabochoncut emerald from Zambia, emeralds, black
lacquer, diamonds

2-068

Ring
Cartier2009
White gold, black finished white gold,
diamonds

BraceletCartier
2017
White gold, amethysts, blue chalcedonies,
onyx, diamonds
Property of Mr. Pierre Chen

Cartier
2015
White gold, sculpted jasper, onyx,
emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

2-080
2-071

Bracelets
Cartier
2016
White gold, two emerald-cut peridots
totalling 64.58 carats, tsavorite garnets,
green garnets, diamonds
Private collection

2-072

Necklace
Cartier
2017
White gold, thirteen cabochon-cut
emeralds from Zambia totalling 78.05
carats, emeralds, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

2-073

BraceletCartier
2014
White gold, one 8.24-carat cushionshaped sapphire from Ceylon, sapphires,
onyx, diamonds
Private collection

2-074

Earrings
Cartier
2014
White gold, cushion-shaped sapphires
from Ceylon totalling 8.44 carats,
sapphires, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

2-075

Ring
Cartier2012
White gold, diamonds
Private collection

2-076

Ring
Cartier
2016
Platinum, one 16.20-carat triangularshaped blue-green tourmaline, black
lacquer, diamonds

2-077

Ring
Cartier
2001
White gold, diamonds

Ring
Cartier
2002
Pink gold

2-081

BraceletCartier
2017
Pink gold, lapis lazuli, diamonds
Mr. Welim collection

2-082

Molécule d‘adrénaline necklace
Cartier
1999
White gold, rock crystal, diamonds

2-083

Ring
Cartier
2001
White gold, rock crystal, diamonds

2-084

BraceletCartier
2017
White gold, two triangular-shaped
diamonds totalling 4.72 carats, rock
crystal, diamonds
Private collection

2-085

Desk clock
Cartier
2019
Rock crystal, rutilated quartz and diamonds(spheres),Diamonds, rock crystal, labradorite, whitegold (jewel),
Pyrite jade (stand)
Private collection

2-086

BraceletCartier
2017
Yellow gold, one 167.64-carat octagonalshaped light yellowish green beryl, brownobsidian, tsavorite garnets, onyx, brown
diamonds, diamonds

2-087

Miniature prism clock
Cartier Paris
1937
Yellow gold, rock crystal

2-088

2-095

2-102

2-114

Mystery pocket watch

Tank Crash wristwatch

BroochBraceletCartier Paris
1931
Yellow gold, crystal, black enamel

Cartier
2007
White gold, diamonds, fabric strap

Cartier Paris
1936
Yellow gold

Cartier Paris
1945
Yellow gold, pink gold

2-089

2-096

2-103

2-115

Mystery pocket watch

Tank Folle wristwatch

Nail bracelet

BraceletCartier
1997
Yellow gold, crystal

Cartier2012
White gold, diamonds, fabric strap

Cartier New York1971
Yellow gold

Cartier New York
1946
Yellow gold, one oval-shaped cabochoncut sapphire

2-090

2-097

2-104

Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch

Diagonale wristwatch

Love bracelet

Cartier
2013
Pink gold, one sapphire, leather strap
Mysterious double tourbillon complication

Cartier
2005
White gold, diamonds, fabric strap

Cartier New York1977
Yellow gold

5. Harmony in Chaos:Accident of Design / Accident of
NatureEven accidents serve as an impetus for
Cartier’s creations. Once, a customer
brought a watch, that was warped in a
car crash, to the Cartier workshop for
repairs. Cartier took inspiration fromthe product of this accident, and in
1967, produced the Crash watch.
Accidents can also happen
with gemstones, these accidents
occasionally serving as the starting
point of a design. The utterly
unpredictable natural mysteries that
produce irregularly formed gemstones
give rise to unexpected color variations
and creations.
The accident, finally, can beprovoked by the designer in theinterplay of proportions, of dissymmetry
as well as by the combination of stones
with different cuts, in order to findthe balancing point where disorder
becomes beauty.

2-091

Necklace
Cartier
2005
Platinum, white gold, diamonds
Private collection

2-098

2-105

Crash Skeleton wristwatch

BraceletCartier
2015
Platinum, one sapphire, leather strap
Private collection

Cartier
2008
Yellow gold

2-099

Écrou de Cartier bracelet

2-106

Necklace
Cartier
2013
Platinum, one 89.55-carat opal, one
emerald, brown diamonds, diamonds
Private collection

2-100

BraceletCartier
2014
Platinum, one 57.95-carat oval-shaped
cabochon-cut opal, colored sapphires,diamonds

2-101

BraceletCartier
2017
Pink gold, white gold, one 84.10-caratcushion-shaped green and pink tourmaline,
one 8.01-carat cushion-shaped yellowgreen sapphire from Madagascar, coloredsapphires, brown diamonds, orange
diamonds, diamonds
Private collection

2-092

Ring
Cartier
2013
Platinum, diamonds

2-093

BraceletCartier
2014
Platinum, diamonds

2-094

Crash wristwatch
Cartier London
1967
Yellow gold, pink gold, one sapphire,
leather strap

6. Beauty All Around:Industrial and Couture Motifs

Cartier’s quest for beauty continues
even to various objects we mightfind in our everyday life. The hidden
charm in the essence of objects suchas nails, screws and pipes or also belt
buckles, ribbons and buttons, canalso transform into a unique piece ofjewelry.
The embodiment of this isundoubtedly the Love bracelet. This
piece of jewelry evokes a message
confirming an unbreakable bond
between couple. The bracelet is affixedwith a flathead screwdriver, the screw
being a common industrial item thathas been incorporated into the design.

Cartier
2017
Pink gold
Private collection

2-107

Handcuff bracelet
Cartier
1939
Yellow gold, citrines, amethysts

2-108

Ring
Cartier
2003
Pink gold, amethysts, turquoises

2-109

BraceletCartier Paris
1935
Yellow gold, lapis lazuli

2-110

BraceletCartier Paris, special order
1950
Yellow gold, diamonds

2-111

Gas pipe bracelet
Cartier Paris
1945
Yellow gold, platinum, one 23.37-carat
cabochon-cut sapphire, rubies, diamonds

2-112

Television bracelet
Cartier London
1974
Yellow gold

2-113

BraceletCartier
1988
Yellow gold, white gold

2-116

Lace ribbon brooch
Cartier Paris
1906
Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds

2-117

BraceletCartier2010
White gold, diamonds
Private collection

2-118

Ring
Cartier
2016
Platinum, one 5.58-carat rectangularshaped fancy-cut diamond, diamonds
Private collection

2-119

Necklace
Cartier
1999
Yellow gold

2-120

Belt Buckle bracelet
Cartier New York
1948
Yellow gold, platinum, sapphires,diamonds

2-121

Necklace
Cartier
circa 2002
Yellow gold, diamonds

2-122 (On display from mid-October onwards)

BraceletCartier
2005
Platinum, one 128.48-carat diamond,diamonds
Private collection

2-123 (On display until mid-October)

BraceletCartier
2015
Platinum, one 197.80-carat cushion-shaped
sapphire from Ceylon, diamonds■

Chapter 3.
Universal Curiosity

In the last chapter, we introduce “Universal Curiosity” as the origin of Cartierdesign. Louis Cartier saw the world in bird’s eyes view, and was interested in
all cultures and civilizations, putting his energy into accumulating original
works of art and literature from around the world. He shared such materials
and artworks with his designers and allowed them source of ideas for new
creations. Later, this curiosity has continued to be a source of timelessinspiration. We will examine how such immense curiosity for the culturesand native flora and fauna of foreign lands such as Japan, China, India, theMiddle East, Egypt, Africa, and Latin America, has led to the creation of
innovative designs.

1. Culture — Inspirations
from Afar:

Japan / China / India / Middle
East / Egypt / Africa / Latin
America

If you trace the source of inspiration
at Cartier, you might travel aroundthe globe. Going beyond borders,it has never stopped exploring ageold diversity and giving it a look thatalways coincides with the time, all thewhile ensuring a respectful approach.
Japan is one of the countries thathas long inspired Cartier. Such as withthe “Japonism” craze in art that existed
throughout late 19th century in Europe,
Cartier also used plum branches inukiyo-e as motifs for bracelets, or
adapted netsuke carvings and otherskillfully made handcrafts into designs
for vanity cases for women.
Cartier reinterprets each culturalessence (such as architecture,
mythology, patterns and colors),
incorporating it into the design. Sucha pursuit is still very much alive. We
find it in the recent design explorationof ancient Latin American culture for
instance.

3-001

Desk set with clock
Cartier Paris
1931
Coral, aventurine, grey agate (dial,boulders), diamonds (Arabic numerals anddragon-shaped hands)
Rock-crystal (pond, lanterns)
Carved jade (Fô dogs)
Lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, lacquer (sides)
Pearls (finials)
Polychrome enamel, gold (inkwells)
Gold, aventurine, lapis lazuli, coral, onyx
(pen)
Albion Art Collection

3-002

Japanese knot brooch
Cartier Paris
1907
Platinum, yellow gold, rubies, diamonds

3-003

Earrings
Cartier
2005
White gold, rubies, diamonds
Private collection

3-004

BroochCartier Paris
1907
Platinum, diamonds

3-005

BroochCartier Paris, special order
1910
Platinum, diamonds, sapphires

3-006

BraceletCartier New York
1925
Platinum, rubies, emeralds, onyx, diamonds

3-007

Watch
Cartier2012
White gold, five engraved rubies totalling
40.91 carats, diamonds
Secret hour display

3-008

BraceletCartier
2016
White gold, colored sapphires, onyx, black
lacquer, diamonds

3-009

Vanity case
Cartier Paris, special order
1930
Gilded and lacquered wood with motherof-pearl inlay, gilded silver, tortoiseshell,
black enamel, nephrite

3-010

Charm bracelet
Cartier New York, special order
1942
Platinum, yellow gold, yellow diamonds,
diamonds, rubies, sapphires, polychromeenamel, moonstones, colored diamonds,
emeralds, onyx, black enamel, amethysts

3-011

Charm
Cartier
2006
Pink gold, white gold
Private collection

3-012

3-022

Cufflinks

Trinket tray

Cartier
2007
Yellow gold, antique menukis, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier2010
White gold, rock crystal, onyx, coral,
emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

3-013

Cufflinks
Cartier
2007
Yellow gold, antique menukis, diamonds
Private collection

3-023

Necklace
Cartier
2008
Platinum, tanzanites, emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

3-014

Cufflinks
Cartier
2009
Yellow gold, antique menukis, diamonds
Private collection

3-015

BraceletCartier2012
White gold, yellow gold, one 42.77-carat
pear-shaped yellow sapphire, yellow
sapphires, yellow diamonds, green
diamonds, black lacquer, diamonds
Private collection

3-024

BroochCartier
2008
Platinum, one 37.06-carat opal, emeralds,
diamonds
Private collection

3-025

Pen
Cartier
2008
Blue lacquer, silver, cultured pearls,
emeralds, mother-of-pearl, gold (pen),
crystal (stand)
Private collection

3-016

Bamboo necklace
Cartier
1998
Yellow gold, white gold

3-017

Bamboo bracelet
Cartier
1992
Yellow gold

3-018

Chinese table cigarette box
Cartier Paris
1925
Yellow gold, silver-gilt, platinum, plaquesof laque burgauté, nephrite, coral, black
enamel, diamonds, rubies

3-019

Chimera bracelet
Cartier Paris
1928
Yellow gold, platinum, coral, emeralds,
sapphires, green enamel, blue enamel,
black enamel, diamonds

3-026

Pen
Cartier
2011
Silver, garnets, one white pearl, gold (pen),
crystal (stand)
Private collection

3-027

Ying-Yang pendant
Cartier Paris
1919
Platinum, yellow gold, onyx, diamonds,
rubies, emeralds, black enamel, black silk
cord

3-028

BraceletCartier
circa 2002
White gold, rubies, onyx, diamonds

3-029

Ring
Cartier
2002
White gold, rubies, onyx, diamonds

3-020

Chimera bracelet
Cartier Paris, special order
1972
Yellow gold, coral, diamonds, emeralds

3-030

Clip brooch
Cartier
circa 2003
White gold, one ruby, diamonds

3-021

Necklace
Cartier Paris
1976
Yellow gold, mother-of-pearl, coral,
diamonds

3-031

Ring
Cartier
2002
White gold, one cabochon-cut jade,diamonds

3-032

3-041

3-051

Ring

Bandeau

Necklace

Cartier
circa 2002
White gold, one cabochon-cut black jade,diamonds

Cartier Paris, special order
1923
Platinum, diamonds

Cartier
2016
White gold, one 91.01-carat cabochon-cut
emerald from Zambia, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-033

Necklace

3-042

Bazuband upper arm bracelet
Cartier Paris for Cartier London,
special order
1922
Platinum, diamonds

Cartier
2017
White gold, five oval-shaped rubies fromBurma totalling 16.21 carats, diamonds
Private collection

3-034

3-043

Bracelet

Earrings

Cartier
2007
Platinum, yellow diamonds, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
2017
White gold, two oval-shaped rubies fromBurma totalling 4.04 carats, diamonds
Private collection

3-035

Ring
Cartier
2015
Platinum, one 8.11-carat cushion-shaped
padparadsha (orangey pink) sapphire from
Ceylon, diamonds
Private collection

3-036

Sautoir
Cartier New York, special order
1925
Platinum, one 85.60-carat carved
hexagonal-shaped emerald, emeralds,
natural pearls, diamonds

3-037

BraceletCartier
2016
Platinum, white gold, two carved emeraldsfrom Zambia totalling 44.75 carats,
emeralds, sapphires, rubies, diamonds
Property of Mr. Pierre Chen

3-044

Egyptian sarcophagus vanity
case
Cartier
1925
Yellow gold, pink gold, platinum, carvedbone, saffron enamel, blue enamel, green
enamel, white enamel, black enamel,
onyx, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds

3-045

Scarab brooch
Cartier London
1925
Platinum, yellow gold, antique blue
faience, citrines, onyx, rubies, emeralds,
diamonds

3-046

Insecte bionique brooch
Cartier
1999
White gold, smoky quartz, diamonds

3-047
3-038

Ring
Cartier
2007
Platinum, one 32.25-carat carved yellow
sapphire from Ceylon,diamonds
Private collection

3-039

Brooch-pendant
Cartier Paris
1913
Platinum, jade plaques, sapphires,
turquoises, one natural pearl, diamonds

3-040

Vanity case
Cartier Paris
1924
Yellow gold, platinum, mother-of-pearl
and turquoise parquetry, one 8.82-caratleaf-carved emerald, emeralds, pearls,
black enamel, cream enamel, diamonds

Scarab bracelet
Cartier
1989
Yellow gold

3-048

Scarab necklace
Cartier Paris
1990
Yellow gold, diamonds

3-049 (On display from mid-October onwards)

Necklace
Cartier
2008
Platinum, antique blue faiences, opal,
onyx, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

3-050

Necklace
Cartier Paris, special order
1935
Yellow gold, fourteen oval star rubies
totalling approximately 82.13 carats,rubies, black enamel, white enamel

3-052

Necklace
Cartier
2018
White gold, two orangey pink spinels
totalling 7.58 carats, two triangular-shaped
diamonds totalling 8.39 carats, spinels,
diamonds
Private collection ofDavid and Leila Centner

3-053

BraceletCartier
2014
Platinum, natural pearls, onyx, yellow
tourmalines, diamonds
Private collection

3-054

Pyramid clip brooch
Cartier Paris, special order
1935
Platinum, one 4.20-carat round old-cut
diamond, diamonds

3-055

Necklace
Cartier
2016
White gold, one 68.82-carat sugarloaf
rubellite, diamonds, black lacquer
Queenie Chen collection

3-056

Necklace
Cartier
2014
White gold, one 9.03-carat step-cut
emerald from Colombia, emeralds,
obsidians, diamonds
Private collection

3-057

Crocodile necklace
Cartier Paris, special order
1975
Yellow gold, emeralds, yellow diamonds,
rubies3-058

Pen
Cartier
2006
Gold plated, one peridot, one citrine
Private collection

Although flowers have been loved bymany jewelers, Cartier reinvented theapproach to flora – exemplified by its
fondness for orchids.
Cartier’s colorful jeweled menagerie
forms a treasure box of imagination– such as predatory panthers, snakes
clinging around the neck, wild graphic
tigers… Whatever the design or
animal specimen, Cartier expresses thestrong character of its creatures, as
exemplified by reptiles and big cats.

3-059

Orchid brooch
Cartier Paris, special order
1937
White gold, amethysts, aquamarines, pale
blue enamel, mauve enamel

3-061

BroochCartier
2016
Yellow gold, sculpted white opals, yellow
diamonds, diamonds
Private collection

3-062

Ring
Cartier2009
White gold, onyx, diamonds

3-063

Ring
Cartier2010
White gold, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-064

Tiara
Cartier Paris
1955
Platinum, yellow gold, white gold, threecabochon-cut rubies totalling 49 carats,
diamonds
Monaco Princely Palace Collection

3-065

BraceletCartier
2016
Yellow gold, emeralds, chrysoprase,carnelians, diamonds

3-066

Ring
Cartier
2016
Yellow gold, emeralds, carnelians,
diamonds
Private collection

3-067

2. Inspiration from Nature— From Naturalism to
Abstraction:

Flora / Birds / Reptiles / Tigers

Nothing is more mysterious than the
animals and plants of the natural
world. Cartier has long interpreted
nature either realistically or abstractly.

Ring
Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, lapis lazuli, diamonds
Private collection

3-068

3-078

3-087

3-091

Bracelet

Necklace

BraceletRing

Cartier
2016
Yellow gold, lapis lazuli, diamonds

Cartier
2001
White gold, sapphires, emeralds, motherof-pearl, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
2016
Yellow gold, yellow diamonds, orange
diamonds, onyx, emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier2013
Yellow gold, one 17.33-carat emerald-cut
beryl, yellow diamonds, orange diamonds,
brown diamonds, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-069

Ring
Cartier
2016
Yellow gold, diamonds
Private collection

3-079

3-088

Snake necklace

Double tiger head bracelet

Cartier Paris
1919
Platinum, diamonds

Cartier
1989
Yellow gold, black lacquer, onyx, emeralds

3-070

BraceletCartier
2011
Platinum, white gold, emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

3-071

Necklace
Cartier
2013
Platinum, jade, amethysts, diamonds
Private collection

3-072

Earrings
Cartier
2013
Platinum, jade, amethysts, diamonds
Private collection

3-073

Bracelet with Flower clip brooch
Cartier Paris
1931
Platinum, white gold, one cut-corneredsquare-shaped 2.34-carat diamond,diamonds

3-074

Necklace
Cartier
2018
Platinum, white gold, one 51.48-caratoval-shaped cabochon-cut opal from
Australia, purple sapphires, sapphires,diamonds
Private collection ofDavid and Leila Centner

3-075

Flamingo brooch
Cartier Paris, special order
1940
Platinum, yellow gold, rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, one citrine, diamonds

3-076

Bird brooch
Cartier Paris, special order
1948
Platinum, white gold, diamonds

3-077

Parrot ring
Cartier
1999
Yellow gold, one 4.61-carat cushionshaped yellow diamond, mother-of-pearl,emeralds, yellow diamonds, diamonds

3-080

3-089

Necklace

Ring

Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, one 41.99-carat cushionshaped orangey topaz, one yellow-brown
diamond, brown diamonds, orange
diamonds, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
circa 2005
Yellow gold, black lacquer

3-081

Snake necklace
Cartier Paris, special order
1968
Platinum, white gold, yellow gold,
diamonds, emeralds, green enamel, redenamel, black enamel

3-082

Necklace
Cartier
2012
Platinum, one 28.15-carat emerald drop,
emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

3-083

BraceletCartier
2018
White gold, one 2.86-carat cabochon-cut
sapphire from Burma, sapphires, emeralds,
diamonds
Private collection

3-084

Tiger clip brooch
Cartier Paris
1957
Yellow gold, yellow diamonds, diamonds,
onyx, emeralds

3-085

Tiger necklace
Cartier
1986
Yellow gold, yellow diamonds, diamonds,
onyx, emeralds

3-086

BroochCartier
2007
Yellow gold, white gold, yellow diamonds,
onyx, emeralds, diamonds
Private collection

3-092

Watch
Cartier
2018
Pink gold, orange diamonds, yellow
diamonds, brown diamonds, diamonds,
black lacquer
Private collection

3-090

Necklace
Cartier2013
Yellow gold, one 86.85-carat emeraldcut yellow beryl, yellow diamonds, orange
diamonds, brown diamonds, onyx,
emeralds, diamonds
Private collection■

Panthère |A Timeless Symbol

Since its first appearance as a pattern on a wristwatch in 1914, the panthère
has become an emblematic motif for Cartier, representing freedom of
women in a new era. The supple form of the panther has been passed downfrom figuration to abstraction, as an ever-changing two-or three-dimensional
motif.
Predatory, sensual, or playful… the panther motif lives through the ages.
It represents a multitude of attitudes and gestures, whilst still reflecting thecharacter of the woman who wears it and has come to be timeless Cartier’s
icon.

3-093

3-097

Panther-pattern wristwatch

Panthère clip brooch

Cartier Paris
1914
Platinum, pink gold, onyx, diamonds,
moiré strap

Cartier Paris
1949
Platinum, white gold, one 152.35-carat
cabochon-cut sapphire from Kashmir,
sapphires, yellow diamonds, diamonds

3-094

Panther-pattern watch—brooch
Cartier Paris
1915
Platinum, diamonds, onyx, black silk cord

3-095

Panthère wristwatch
Cartier
circa 1986
White gold, sapphires, diamonds

3-096

Watch
Cartier
2004
White gold, emeralds, ebony

3-098

Panthère jewelry set
Cartier Paris
1957–1958

Panthère cliquet pin
Cartier Paris
1957
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, green
garnets, diamonds

Panthère clip brooch
Cartier Paris
1958
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, emeralds,
onyx, diamonds

Panthère Bracelet
Cartier Paris
1958
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, emeralds,
onyx, diamonds3-099

3-109

3-119

3-120 (On display until mid-October)

Necklace

Necklace

Bracelet

Egyptian-style pendant

Cartier
2017
Platinum, white gold, two pear-shaped
aquamarines totalling 35.21 carats,
aquamarines, onyx, emeralds, diamonds
Michelle collection

Cartier
2002
White gold, sapphires, diamonds
Private collection

Cartier
2018
White gold, one 14.10 carat cushion-shaped
morganite, opal, rubellites, pink sapphires,diamonds
Private collection ofDavid and Leila Centner

Cartier Paris, special order
1921
Platinum, gold, onyx, diamonds, rubies,
emeralds, one natural pearl, moonstone,
black enamel

3-100

Ring
Cartier
2008
Platinum, one oval-shaped sapphire,
emeralds, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-101

Ring
Cartier
2014
Platinum, one cabochon-cut blue
tourmaline, emeralds, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-102

BraceletCartier
2018
White gold, one 97.23-carat sugarloaf
aquamarine, sapphires, emeralds, onyx,
diamonds
Private collection

3-103

Panthère clip brooch
Cartier Paris
1971
Yellow gold, white chalcedony, black
lacquer, emeralds

3-105

Vanity case
Cartier Paris
1927
Yellow gold, platinum, black enamel,diamonds, emeralds, rubies, onyx

3-106

BroochCartier
2008Black finished white gold, emeralds,
diamonds
Private collection

3-107

Necklace
Cartier
2008
White gold, one emerald, onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-108

Necklace
Cartier
2017
Platinum, white gold, emeralds, rubellites,
onyx, diamonds
Private collection

3-110

BraceletCartier
2015
Platinum, onyx, diamonds

3-111

BraceletCartier
2014
White gold, onyx, one emerald, diamonds
Private collection

3-112

Necklace
Cartier
1991
Yellow gold, white gold

3-113

Pendant
Cartier
circa 2002
Yellow gold, diamonds, yellow diamonds,
brown diamonds, black silk cord

3-114

Ring
Cartier
2004
Yellow gold, black lacquer, peridots, onyx

3-115

Ring
Cartier2014
Yellow gold, tsavorite garnets, onyx
Private collection

3-116

Ring
Cartier
2015
Yellow gold, pink gold, sculpted blackjasper, emeralds
Private collection■

Cartier Archives |The Inquisitiveness of Louis Cartier

On view here are the archives, centering on materials collected by Louis
Cartier. For example, you can find items such as a catalog from an exhibitionof Islamic Art hosted by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris in 1903,
artists' sketches of wild animals, Chinese hair ornaments using kingfisherfeathers, ukiyo-e prints by Harunobu Suzuki, or stencil paper used for kimono
dyeing, all of which eloquently recount the story of how the collection ofthese materials from around the world contributed to the Maison’s creativity.
These archives were a veritable “cabinet of curiosities” that characterizedLouis Cartier’s worldview. They now exist as a tool that links the past andfuture of Cartier’s creations. In other words, the past and the future of
Cartier are in correspondence with each other.
While the books and objects collected by Louis Cartier have been a richsource of inspirations for Cartier designers, drawings show the creative
process and intentions behind each design. By looking these archive
documents you will find clues to understanding the Maison’s inquisitive andpioneering spirit.

A-001

A-005

Charles Vignier, Hogitaro Inada
eds.
Harunobu Koriusaï Shunsho:
estampes japonaises, tome 2,
exh. cat.

Archives photograph of inrôbelonging to Louis Cartier’s
personal collection

Paris, Ateliers photo-mécaniques D.-A.
Longuet1910
Book
Cartier Archives

A-002

Samuel Bing
Le Japon artistique, tome 1(1888-1889)
Paris, Librairie centrale des Beaux-Arts
1888-1889
Book
Cartier Archives

A-003
3-117

Two Fern spray brooches
Cartier Paris
1903
Platinum, diamonds

3-118

Necklace
Cartier
2018
White gold, two rectangular-shaped
morganites totalling 55.18 carats, opals,
rubellites, pink sapphires, diamonds
Private collection ofDavid and Leila Centner

Samuel Bing
Le Japon artistique, tome 1(1888-1889)
Paris, Librairie centrale des Beaux-Arts
1888-1889
Book
Cartier Archives

A-004

Katagami (Japanese stencil)
UndatedJapanese paper known as washi
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
1936
Gelatin silver print
Cartier Archives

A-006

Invitation des Amis de l’Art
Japonais, Dîner du Mardi 18
Janvier 1910
Les Amis de l’Art Japonais
1910
Invitation Card
Cartier Archives

A-007

Garland style sketch book
Cartier Paris
circa 1910
Graphite, Indian ink, gouache / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

A-008

Head ornaments brought from
China which served as a sourceof inspiration for the Cartierdesigners
circa 1910
Non precious metal, kingfisher feathers,
paper mache boxes
Cartier Archives

A-009

Kingfisher feathers in a paper
mache box
circa 1910
Kingfisher feathers, paper mache box
Cartier Archives

A-010

A-015

A-021

A-027

Union Centrale des Art Décoratifs
Exposition des Arts Musulmans
au musée des Arts Décoratifs,
exh. cat.

Archives photographs of Jeanne
Toussaint and of Count ofQuinsonas during a trip in Massaï
district, East Africa

Design for a brooch

Design for a necklace

Paris, Librairie centrale des Beaux-Arts
1903
Book
Cartier Archives

1913
Gelatin silver prints
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
1925
Graphite, Indian ink, gouache / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
2014
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

A-016
A-011

Photograph of the Alhambra
palaceMathurin Méheut
Études d’animaux, tome 2

UndatedGelatin silver print
Cartier Archives

Paris, Librairie centrale des Beaux-Arts
1911
Book
Cartier Archives

A-012

A-017

A-022

A-028

Design for a flower motif
necklace

Design for a bracelet
Cartier Paris
2015
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
1951
Graphite, gouache / tracing paper
Cartier Archives

A-023

La décoration arabe [...] extraits
du grand ouvrage “l’Art Arabe”
de Prisse d’Avesnes
Paris, André Daly fils & Cie
UndatedBook
Cartier Archives

Scrapbook
Cartier Paris
circa 1930
Cartier Archives

A-018

A-013

Photographs of Jacques Cartier’svoyage through India and thePersian Gulf

A-014

1929
Book
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
2002
Gouache, graphite, black ink / grey paper
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
2004
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

Design for a mystery clock

A-030

Cartier Paris
2011
Gouache, graphite, black ink / grey paper
Cartier Archives

1939
Cartier Archives

Design for a Chimera bracelet
Cartier Paris
1922
Graphite, Indian ink / tracing paper
Cartier Archives

A-025

Design for a pendantExposition française au Caire.
France-Égypte, exh. cat.

Design for a necklace

A-024

Patent for a system for mystery
clocks, watches or wristwatcheswith an invisible movement

A-019

Cartier Paris
1911-1912
Gelatin silver prints
Cartier Archives

A-029

Design for a bracelet

Design for a bracelet

Cartier Paris
1922
Graphite, gouache / tracing paper
Cartier Archives

A-031

Cartier Paris
2004
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

Design for a necklace
Cartier Paris
2007
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing paper
Cartier Archives

A-020

Proposal for a necklace

A-026

Studies for Arab patterns

Cartier Paris
2015
Gouache, graphite, black ink / tracing
paper
Cartier Archives

Cartier Paris
1910
Indian ink / tracing paper
Cartier Archives

Entrance

Chapter 1.
Material Transformation
and Colors

Chapter 2.
Forms and Designs
Prologue:
Space of Time:
Mystery andPrism Clocks

Introduction

Panthère
Cartier Archives
The Inquisitivenessof Louis Cartier

Chapter 3.
Universal Curiosity

Shop
Exit

• No powder room and no lounge in thegallery.
• If you wish to re-enter, please call a staff
at the entrance or at the exit before
leaving the gallery. (Reentry is valid forthe day of issue only.)• Temperature, humidity and lighting in
the gallery are strictly controlled forthe conservation of works under theprovisions of international standards andthe lender's condition of loan.
• Related materials regarding the exhibition
can be referred at the Art Library on the
3rd floor.