Rev. 1.10

11-2009

BIMOTA DB7
WORKSHOP MANUAL
2008, Bimota Spa.
All rights reserved.
The reproduction, in whole or part, of the topics covered in thispublication, is forbidden: all rights are reserved to Bimota towhich will require (written) authorization specifying the reasons.
Bimota3

MANUAL PURPOSE – WARNINGSThis manual has been written by Bimota SpA primarily intended for use by dealers Bimota and their skilledmechanics. Describes the service procedures for maintenance, repair and replacement of original parts of the
motorcycle in question. The technicians, that this manual is intended to, must have the adequate experienceand competence: some information has been deliberately omitted, because they have to be part of the indispensable basics that a technician must have. The technicians in the use phase of the manual must comply
with the original technical specifications given by the original manufacturer. Bimota assumes no responsibility
for errors or omissions of technical nature, produced in the writing of this manual. All the information provided
shall be updated at the time of printing, Bimota pursues a policy of continuous research and development, therefore, reserves the right to make changes of its products without prior notice and without obligation to makethe same changes to products already sold. The modifications or significant changes made to the specifications or procedures will be reported to all Bimota authorized dealers and, where possible, will be included insubsequent editions of this manual.

SIMBOLS
All indications right or left refer to the direction of travel of motorcycle.
Caution
The non-compliance with the instructions may create a situation of danger and cause serious personal injury
and even the death of the pilot, persons in the proximity, or person intent to repair the bike.
Important
Indicates the possibility of damage to the vehicle and/or its components if the instructions are not performed.
Notes
Provides useful information on the current operation.

4

USE OF THE MANUALThis manual is an easy guide for technicians. All the procedures indicated in the manual are illustrated in a
detailed way and regards the operations of disassembly, assembly, inspection and repair.
1. The manual is divided in chapters. The name and the relative number, placed in a frame on the right upper
corner of each page, indicating the current chapter.
2. Each chapter is divided in sections. In the left upper part of each page is reported the title of the current
section, written in capital letters.
3. Paragraph title, written in small letters respect to the section title.
4. At the beginning of some sections, to make the procedures of disassembly more clear and to help the identification of the bike components, are reported the exploded drawings. It is possible to identify by number
the related piece.
5. The exploded drawing is accompanied by a list with the piece name and relative characteristics.
6. The instructions for the disassembly/assembly operations are described in sequence.
7. Some operations are accompanied by symbols with the purpose to supply more information and/or possible danger situation for the pilot or motorcycle.

5

ENGINE11

Summary
MANUAL PURPOSE – WARNINGS  	
4
SIMBOLS  	4
USE OF THE MANUAL  	
5
11.1 - REMOVAL – REFITTING OF THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY  	
Sez11-4
Removal of the engine   .............................................................................................................Sez11-5
Refitting engine   ........................................................................................................................Sez11-5
11.2 - Lubrication system: oil pump  	
Sez11-6
Removal of the oil pump    .........................................................................................................Sez11-7
Disassembly of the oil pump   ....................................................................................................Sez11-8
Reassembly of the oil pump    ....................................................................................................Sez11-9
Refitting the oil pump    ..............................................................................................................Sez11-10
11.3 - Lubrication system: oil cooler  	
Sez11-12
Removal of the lubrication system   ...........................................................................................Sez11-13
Oil cooler inspection   .................................................................................................................Sez11-14
11.4 - COOLING SYSTEM: WATER TANK  	
Sez11-15
Removal of the water tank   .......................................................................................................Sez11-16
11.5 - WATER COOLING: WATER COOLER  	
Sez11-17
Disassembly water cooler   ........................................................................................................Sez11-18
Water cooler inspection    . .........................................................................................................Sez11-19
Renewal of the cooling fan   .......................................................................................................Sez11-20
Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions   ...................................................................Sez11-21
11.6 - Cooling system: water pump  	
Sez11-25
Removal of the water pump    ....................................................................................................Sez11-26
Refitting the water pump   ..........................................................................................................Sez11-29
11.7 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments  	
Sez11-34
Checking and adjusting the valve clearances   ..........................................................................Sez11-35
Checking the closing clearance    ..............................................................................................Sez11-36
Checking valve lift   ....................................................................................................................Sez11-37
Checking the engine timing   ......................................................................................................Sez11-39
11.8 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing  	
Sez11-42
Removal of the timing belt covers    ...........................................................................................Sez11-43
Removal of the tensioner pulley / timing belt    ..........................................................................Sez11-44
Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulley   ...........................................................................Sez11-45
Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs   . .....................................................Sez11-46
Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys   .......................................................................................Sez11-46
Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys   ...........................................................................Sez11-47
Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers   .................................................................................Sez11-49
Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs   . ..........................................................Sez11-51
Reassembly of the timing pulleys   . ...........................................................................................Sez11-52
Rimontaggio puleggie testa / tenditori fissi   . .............................................................................Sez11-53
Refitting the timing belts   ...........................................................................................................Sez11-55
Refitting the timing covers   ........................................................................................................Sez11-58
11.9 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts  	
Sez11-59
Removal of the camshafts   . ......................................................................................................Sez11-60

Sez11-1

ENGINE

11

Checking the camshafts and supports   .....................................................................................Sez11-62
Refitting the camshafts   . ...........................................................................................................Sez11-64
Oil seals   ...................................................................................................................................Sez11-67
Rocker cover   ............................................................................................................................Sez11-68
Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union   ..................................................................Sez11-71
11.10 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms  	
Sez11-72
Removal of the cylinder heads   .................................................................................................Sez11-73
Removal of the valves   ..............................................................................................................Sez11-74
Removing the valve rocker arms   . ............................................................................................Sez11-75
Overhaul of cylinder head components   . ..................................................................................Sez11-79
Valve seat   . ...............................................................................................................................Sez11-80
Valve guides   .............................................................................................................................Sez11-82
Checking the valve   ...................................................................................................................Sez11-84
Checking the valve seal   ...........................................................................................................Sez11-86
Checking the rocker arms   ........................................................................................................Sez11-86
Opening and closing shims - Springs   . .....................................................................................Sez11-87
Reassembly of the cylinder head   .............................................................................................Sez11-87
Valve guide seals   .....................................................................................................................Sez11-88
Reassembly of the closing rocker arms.   ..................................................................................Sez11-88
Refitting the valves, closing shims and half rings   . ...................................................................Sez11-91
Refitting the opening shims and opening rocker arms   .............................................................Sez11-93
Fitting the cylinder head assemblies   ........................................................................................Sez11-96
11.11 - Cylinder / piston assemblies  	
Sez11-98
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly   .................................................................................Sez11-99
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components   ..................................................................Sez11-103
Checking the piston-cylinder clearance   ...................................................................................Sez11-104
Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance   ............................................................................Sez11-106
Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance   . ...........................................................................Sez11-107
11.12 - Clutch assembly: clutch  	
Sez11-108
Description   ...............................................................................................................................Sez11-109
Removal of the clutch   . .............................................................................................................Sez11-110
Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components   ..................................................................Sez11-115
11.13 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover   	
Sez11-117
Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover   .....................................................................Sez11-118
11.14 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears  	
Sez11-121
Removal of the primary drive gears   .........................................................................................Sez11-122
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash   .........................................................Sez11-125
11.15 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism  	
Sez11-128
Removal of the gearchange mechanism   . ................................................................................Sez11-129
Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly   . ....................................................Sez11-131
11.16 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts  	
Sez11-132
Removal of the gearbox assembly   ...........................................................................................Sez11-133
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts   ..........................................................................................Sez11-135
Disassembly of the gearbox output shaft   .................................................................................Sez11-135
Disassembly of the gearbox input shaft   ...................................................................................Sez11-138
Overhaul of the gearbox   . .........................................................................................................Sez11-141
Inspection of the gear selector forks   ........................................................................................Sez11-142
Inspection of the gear selector drum   ........................................................................................Sez11-143* Click on the desired item to go to the related section.
Sez11-2

ENGINE11

11.17 - Flywheel-alternator  	
Sez11-144
Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover   .......................................................................Sez11-145
Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover   . .......................................................................Sez11-147
Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly   . .........................................................................Sez11-149
Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly   ..........................................................................Sez11-150
Disassembly of the flywheel/alternator   . ...................................................................................Sez11-151
Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly   .....................................................................Sez11-152
11.18 - Crankcase assembly: external components  	
Sez11-157
Removal of external components   . ...........................................................................................Sez11-158
Refitting the external components   . ..........................................................................................Sez11-161
Removal of the timing gears   ....................................................................................................Sez11-166
Removal of the starter motor idler gear   . ..................................................................................Sez11-167
Checking the engine sensor air gap   . .......................................................................................Sez11-168
11.19 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves  	
Sez11-170
Separation of the crankcase halves   .........................................................................................Sez11-171
Overhaul of the crankcase halves   ............................................................................................Sez11-174
Main bearings   . .........................................................................................................................Sez11-178
Shimming the shafts   . ...............................................................................................................Sez11-179
Shimming the crankshaft   . ........................................................................................................Sez11-180
Shimming the gearbox shafts   . .................................................................................................Sez11-183
Shimming the gearbox selector drum   ......................................................................................Sez11-184
11.20 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods  	
Sez11-185
Removal of the connecting rods assembly   ..............................................................................Sez11-186
Disassembly of the connecting rods   ........................................................................................Sez11-186
Overhaul of the connecting rods   ..............................................................................................Sez11-187
Renewal of the small end bushing   ...........................................................................................Sez11-188
Connecting rod bearings   ..........................................................................................................Sez11-188
Crankshaft   ................................................................................................................................Sez11-189
Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance   ...................................................................................Sez11-192
Reassembly of the connecting rods   .........................................................................................Sez11-192
Refitting the connecting rods.   . .................................................................................................Sez11-195* Click on the desired item to go to the related section.
Sez11-3

ENGINE11

11.1 - REMOVAL – REFITTING OF THE ENGINE ASSEMBLY

1) Engine spindle
2) Nut M12x1,25
3) SpacerSez11-4

ENGINE

11

Removal of the engine
In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
Most of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
This section describes only the operations to be carried out after having removed all the parts listed belowe:- Tail, Fuel tank, side fairing, front fairing- Throttle control, airbox, throttle body, exhaust system- Foot lever gearshift assembly, rear brake pump, Clutch piston assembly, engine driving pinion- Engine wiring, battery box mount, oil cooler and pipes, cooling system- Swingarm, swingarm plate dx-sx, shock absorber rocker
Place a stand beneath the engine to support it during removal from the frame.
Loosen the two spindle nuts (2) on the left or the right side.
Take the spindles (1) off. In this moment the engine unit is detached by the frame.

Take the engine off from the frame pulling it down and forward.

Refitting engine
To reassemble repeat the assembling operation in reverse order.
Important
Add grease under the nuts (2) and tighten to specified torque.

Sez11-5

ENGINE1111.2 - Lubrication system: oil pump

1) Complete oil pump assembly2) O-ring3) Circlip
4) O-ring5) Pump body6) Circlip
7) Reducer bush8) Spring washer
9) Bolt10) Bolt
11) Spring washer
12) Pump drive gear13) Key
14) By-pass plug
15) Locating dowel
16) By-pass spring17) By-pass valve

Sez11-6

ENGINE

11

Removal of the oil pump
Drain the oil from the lubrication system
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover
Undo and remove the bolts (9) and (10) securing the pump assembly.
Remove the oil pump assembly (1) and extract O-rings (2) and (4) from the crankcase half together with twocentring bushes (15).

Sez11-7

ENGINE

11

Disassembly of the oil pump
Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (12).

Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.
Remove the plug (14) and extract the spring (16) and by-pass valve (17).

Check the condition of the above components.
Remove the circlip (6) and withdraw the pump drive gear (12).

Sez11-8

ENGINE

11

Reassembly of the oil pump
Check that the circlip (3) and Woodruff key (13) are both present on the pump.
Fit the pump drive gear (12) on to the oil pump and secure it by installing the circlip (6) in its groove.

Install in the pump the by-pass valve (17) and the spring (16); screw in the plug (14) and tighten to the specified
torque, after applying a medium strength threadlocker.

Sez11-9

ENGINE11

Refitting the oil pump
Position the locating dowels (15) and the O-rings (2) and (4) in correspondence with the crankcase lubrication
oilways.

Position the oil pump on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (9) and (10) to the specified torque.

Check the gear backlash with the driving pinion by fixing dial gauge part no. 88765.1518, equipped with therelevant stylus, to the crankcase.
Set dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and zero set instrument in this position.
Move gear slightly to measure play; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the gear.
The backlash should be 0.10 mm.

Sez11-10

ENGINE11

Refit the right-hand crankcase cover
Refit the engine to the frame
Fill the lubrication system with oil

Sez11-11

ENGINE11

11.3 - Lubrication system: oil cooler

1) Bolt M6x25 TCEI CZ
2) Gasket 6x18x1.6
3) Rubber mounting4) Aluminium gasket sp.2
5) Nipple
6) Gasket7) Oil hose8) Support
9) Nut M610) Spacer11) Oil cooler
12) Bolt M6X12 TE
13) Gasket14) Oil hoseSez11-12

ENGINE

11

Removal of the lubrication system
Remove the side fairings
Drain the oil from the lubrication system
Undo the nuts (A) on the feed and return hoses (7) - (14) and the nipples (5) and disconnect them from theengine.
Unscrew the nipples (5) on the crankcase and recover the gaskets.

During removal, take care not to lose the O-rings (1) which ensure a tight seal.

Sez11-13

ENGINE11

Unscrew and remove the bolt (14) - (5) securing the oil cooler to the support (8).

The support (8) can now be removed by unscrewing the bolts (12).

Unscrew the feed and return hoses (7) - (14) from the oil cooler (1).

Oil cooler inspection
Make a visual inspection of the oil cooler. Renew the cooler in the presence of damage or leaks.
Sez11-14

ENGINE11

11.4 - COOLING SYSTEM: WATER TANK

1) Water tank2) Tank cap
3) ECU mounting plate
4) Screw M5x10 TBEI
5) Water return hose
6) Water delivery hose
7) H. cylinder hose
8) V. cylinder hose
9) Clamp
10) Hose11) Clamp12) Clamp

13) Thermostat14) Hose guide clamp15) Clamp16) Water temperature sensor17) Screwed bush18) Clamp
19) Sensor20) O-Ring21) Water outlet union (horizontal)
22) Water outlet union (vertical)
23) Plate24) ScrewSez11-15

ENGINE

11

Removal of the water tank
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the air filter box.
Loosen the clamp (11) and slip the hose (10) off from the water cooler cap.

Unscrew the three screws (25) then remove the expansion tank (1) together with the plate (3) and the hoses(10).
Unscrew the screws (4) to disassembly the expansion tank (1) from the plate (3).
Loosen the clamps (11) and (12) to take away the hoses (10) from the expansion tank.

Sez11-16

ENGINE11

11.5 - WATER COOLING: WATER COOLER

1) Water tank2) Tank cap
3) ECU mounting plate
4) Screw M5x10 TBEI
5) Water return hose
6) Water delivery hose
7) H. cylinder hose
8) V. cylinder hose
9) Clamp
10) Hose11) Clamp12) Clamp

13) Thermostat14) Hose guide clamp15) Clamp16) Water temperature sensor17) Screwed bush18) Clamp
19) Sensor20) O-Ring21) Water outlet union (horizontal)
22) Water outlet union (vertical)
23) Plate24) ScrewSez11-17

11

ENGINE

Disassembly water cooler
Drain the cooling system
Remove the side fairings
Remove the battery support
Loosen the clamps le fascette (9) on the coolant hoses (6) e (5) then slip them off from the water cooler
manifolds.

Loosen the clamp (11) which joins the water tank to the water cooler then slip off the hose (10).

Unscrew the bolt (25) which fastens the water cooler on the left side of the frame.

Sez11-18

ENGINE

11

Disconnect the connectors (26) of the main wiring from both the cooling fans.

Uncrew the screw (25) on the right side of the frame then take off the water cooler.

Water cooler inspection
Visually inspect the radiator.
If it shows signs of damage or leaks, the water cooler must be renewed.
Check also that the air flow through the radiator core is not obstructed by leaves, insects, mud etc.
Carefully check the condition of the radiator core.
Important
An excessively high coolant temperature may be caused by partial obstruction of the radiator core.

Sez11-19

ENGINE11

Renewal of the cooling fan
Unscrew the three fan retaining bolts (1) the remove the fan (2) from the water cooler.
Repeat the above operation for the other cooling fan.
When refitting the fan, tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque.

Sez11-20

11

ENGINE
Removal of the cooling system hoses and unions

5) Water return hose
6) Water delivery hose
7) H. cylinder hose
8) V. cylinder hose
9) Clamp
13) Thermostat15) Clamp16) Water temperature sensor17) Screwed bush18) Clamp
19) Sensor20) O-Ring21) Water outlet union (horizontal)
22) Water outlet union (vertical)

Important
Periodically check the connection hoses for signs of leaks. Hoses that are cracked, swollen, or hardened
should be renewed.

Sez11-21

ENGINE

11

Drain the cooling system
Remove the side fairings
Remove the battery box
Loosen the fixing clamps (9). Slip off the two ends of the water return hose (5) from the water cooler and fromthe water pump manifold.

Loosen the clamps (9) then slip off the water delivery hose (6).

Sez11-22

ENGINE

11

Loosen the clamps (9) and the clamp (15), disconnect the wiring connector (4) of the temperature sensor fromthe electric wiring then remove the vertical cylinder hose (8) .

Loosen the clamps (9) to disassemble the thermostat (13) - H. cylinder hose (7) assembly from the union (21).

Sez11-23

ENGINE

11

Loosen the clamps (9) and remove the hoses (24) e (25).

Unscrew the bolts (23) then remove the union (22).
Recover the O-ring (20) located between the union and the vertical cylinder head.

Disconnect the wiring connector (A) of the temperature sensor (19) mounted on the union (21) on thehorizontal cylinder head from the main electric wiring.
Unscrew the bolts (26) then remove the union (21) located on the horizontal cylinder head.
Recover the O-ring (20) located between the union and the horizontal cylinder head.

Sez11-24

ENGINE11

11.6 - Cooling system: water pump

1) Bolt
2) Washer3) Circlip
4) Washer5) Outer bearing
6) Inner bearing7) Spacer8) Seal seat9) Mechanical seal
10) Water pump impeller11) Locating dowel
12) Water pump cover assembly
13) Bolt
14) Plug15) Seal
16) Left-hand side crankcase coverSez11-25

ENGINE

11

Removal of the water pump
Remove the side fairings
Drain the cooling system
Remove the cooling circuit hoses from the water pump cover
Remove the left-hand side crankcase cover
Undo and remove the five screws (13) securing the water pump cover (12) to the left-hand side crankcase
cover (16). Remove the water pump cover (12).

Clean the pump housing of any scale. Rotate the rotor shaft (10) to check the bearings for wear.
If there is excessive play, change the bearings as follows.
Remove the circlip (3) and washer (4) from the impeller shaft.
Withdraw the impeller (10) with the mechanical seal (9) from the outside.

Sez11-26

ENGINE

11

Recover the ceramic washer (A) and seal ring (B) located on the inner side.

Undo and remove the bolts (1) with washer (2).

Sez11-27

11

ENGINE

Working from the rotor side use a suitable drift to press on the inner race of end bearing (5) until it can beextracted from the cover. Use the same technique to remove the other bearing (6).

Working from the inside of the cover, remove the seat (8) of the mechanical seal (9).
Remove the inner spacer (7).
Check the condition of the components of the mechanical seal: there should be no signs of deformation,
cracking, or excessive wear.
In the case of damage, both components must be renewed.

Sez11-28

ENGINE11

Refitting the water pump
Clean the seat in the cover, any parts you intend to reuse, and the rotor shaft. Lubricate with engine oil and refit
as follows. Using drift part no. 88713.0869 fit the new seal (9) on the impeller shaft.

Working from the inside of the cover, fit the inner spacer (7) with its square edge (A) facing outwards.
Using a suitable drift that bears on the outer race, drive home the bearing (6) against the spacer (7) with theshield side facing the cover.

Fit the other bearing (5) and drive it fully home against the previously fitted bearing.

Sez11-29

ENGINE11

Fit the two bolts (1) with washers (2) and tighten them to the specified torque.

Now turn over the cover and fit the locating ring (8) using drift part no. 88713.0870.
Position the ring as shown in figure and push it until it seats against the spacer (7).

Sez11-30

ENGINE11

Fit the seal ring (B) and the ceramic washer (A).

Insert the impeller shaft (10) with the mechanical seal (9). Turn the cover over.

Sez11-31

ENGINE

11

Insert rotor shaft (10) with seal and turn over the cover again.
Fit spacer (4), positioned as shown in the cross-sectional view, and lock the assembly in place with circlip (3).
Rotate the impeller (5) and make sure it turns smoothly without sticking.
Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly on the pump cover and on the left-hand side crankcase cover.

Sez11-32

ENGINE

11

Apply a bead of liquid gasket to the water pump cover (12) as shown in the figure.
Fit the locating dowels (11) and position the pump cover (12) on the left-hand side crankcase cover.
Fit the screws (13) in their threads.
Tighten the screws (13) to the specified torque.
Refit the components removed in the procedure.

Refit the left-hand side crankcase cover and connect the cooling system hoses to the crankcase cover
Refit the cooling system hoses to the water pump coverFill the cooling system
Fit the side fairings

Sez11-33

ENGINE11

11.7 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

1) Closing shim2) Intake side camshaft3) Opening shim
4) Exhaust side camshaft5) Valve

Sez11-34

ENGINE

11

Checking and adjusting the valve clearances
Remove the side fairings
Remove the radiator
Remove the airbox
Remove the timing belts
Remove the rocker coverNotes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Checking the opening clearance
Move the piston of the cylinder being checked to TDC of the power stroke: in this condition all the valves areclosed and the camshafts are in their rest position and thus free to rotate.
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the opening rocker arm (A) and the lower edge of thecamshaft cam (B).
The clearance must be within the specified limits “Timing system/valves”.
If they are not, remove the opening shim (3), as described in the paragraph “Removal of the valves”, andreplace it with a shim of appropriate thickness to obtain the specified clearance.
Notes
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 2 to 3.45 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked with
its size.

Sez11-35

ENGINE

11

Checking the closing clearance
Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the closing rocker arm shoe (C) and the upper edge of thecamshaft cam (D), taking care not to compress the rocker arm return spring.
The clearance must be within the specified limits “Timing system/valves”.
If it is not, remove the closing shim, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the valves”, and replace it witha shim of suitable height to obtain the specified clearance.
Notes
Closing rocker arm shims measuring from 2.2 to 4.5 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked
with its size.
Check and adjust the clearances of all valves.
Refit the opening and closing shims as described in the paragraph “Reassembly of the cylinder head”

Sez11-36

ENGINE

11

Checking valve lift
Put the engine in the condition described in “Checking and adjusting the valve clearances” above.
Install the dial gauge stand (E) 88765.1518 on the intake side camshaft bearing studs, and secure it with theknobs (F).

Set the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge
between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Lock the dial gauge into the seat of the stand marked “A” and position the fork probe against the face of theclosing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check that the reading on the dial gauge corresponds to the specified value “Timing system/valves”.
Repeat the same procedure with the exhaust valves, moving the stand to the opposite studs and fitting the dialgauge into the seat marked “S” on the stand (E).

Sez11-37

ENGINE11

Refit following the procedure indicated in the previous paragraph “Checking and adjusting the valve
clearances”.
Refit the components removed.
Refit the timing belts
Refit the rocker cover
Refit the airbox
Refit the radiator
Refit the side fairings

Sez11-38

ENGINE

11

Checking the engine timing
Remove the side fairings
Remove the radiator
Remove the airbox
Remove the timing belts
Remove the rocker cover
Remove the water pump cover
Put the engine the condition described previously for the operation “Checking and adjusting the valve
clearances”.
Install service tool (G) no. 88765.1188 in the spark plug bore to determine piston’s TDC, along with gauges (H)88765.1518 and the timing check tool (L) (timing degree wheel 88765.1523 with graduated disk).

Sez11-39

11

ENGINESet the opening valve clearance to zero when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge
between the upper rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that, in this condition, the camshaft can rotate.
If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.

In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder at TDC with the valves fully closed as confirmed by
the reading on gauge (G), set the gauges (H) to zero.
Refit the belts and tension them as described in Sect. “Refitting the timing belts”.
Turn the degree wheel (L) counterclockwise until the dial gauge (H) on the exhaust side reads a lift of 1 mm.
Check that the angular displacement reading in degrees on the degree wheel (L) is as specified.
Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a 1 mm lift on the intake side.
Check the angular value on the degree wheel.
Continue turning the shaft until you reach total closure of the valve on the expansion stroke.
Now reverse the rotation (i.e. clockwise) of the degree wheel (L) until gauge (H) shows a 1 mm lift of the intake
valve. Check that the angular value is as specified.
Rotate clockwise again until obtaining 1 mm lift of the exhaust valve.
Check the angular value against the specified value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
Permissible tolerance for measured values is ±3° with respect to specified values.

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Remove all tools installed for the timing check and tension the belts to their prescribed operating tension, as
described in “Measuring timing belt tension”.
If the values obtained are outside the specified ranges, loosen the timing pulley screws (H) and correct thevalue by turning the camshaft nut with the wrench supplied with service tool no. 88713.1806.
Then tighten the three timing pulley screws (H) to the specified torque and mark the new timing positions on
the relative components.

Refit the water pump cover
Refit the timing belts
Refit the rocker cover
Refit the airbox
Refit the radiator
Refit the side fairings

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11.8 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing

1) Vertical cylinder timing belt cover2) Air filter
3) Horizontal cylinder timing belt cover4) Bolt5) Filter cover6) Bolt
7) Washer8) Nut9) Tensioner pulley assembly10) Circlip11) Camshaft pulley12) Tensioner pulley mounting stud13) Idler pulley assembly
14) Timing belt15) Nut16) Key17) Spacer18) Camshaft pulley19) Driveshaft pulley spacer20) Spacer21) Nut
22) Bolt
23) Washer
24) Spacer flange

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Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the side fairings
Disconnect the electrical system components on right-hand side of the engine
Notes
Remove also any parts which may impede the procedure in any way.
Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (1) and remove it from the vertical cylinder assembly.

Undo the bolts (4) securing the timing belt cover (3) and remove it from the horizontal cylinder unit.

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Removal of the tensioner pulley / timing belt
Loosen the nut (8) and remove the tensioner pulley (9) from its mounting stud (12) on the cylinder head.
Remove the timing belt (14) from the horizontal cylinder assembly.
Important
If the belts are to be re-used, mark the direction of rotation with an arrow and also mark the cylinder they
belong to.
Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.

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Removal of the camshaft pulleys/idler pulleyInsert tool part no. 88713.1806 on the pulleys to stop them rotating and use the bush supplied with it to slacken
off nuts (21) securing the pulleys.
ImportantOn reassembly, always use new nuts.
Remove the nuts (21) and the pulleys (11) from the camshafts.

Loosen the nut (8) and remove the idler pulley (13).
Repeat the same procedure to remove the other pulley.

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Removal of the tensioner and idler pulley mounting studs
Using service tool no. 88713.1821, remove the tensioner pulley mounting studs (12) from the cylinder heads.

Disassembly of the camshaft pulleys
Undo and remove the bolts (22).
Slide off the washer (23).
Withdraw the camshaft pulley (11) from the spacer flange (24).

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Removal of the timing belt driveshaft pulleys
Use the service tool no. 88713.1805 to hold the driving pulley against rotation.
Important
If this operation is carried out with the engine installed in the frame, hold the driveshaft pulleys against rotationby using service tool no 88713.2011 mounted on the alternator cover.
Loosen the nut (15) using the socket supplied with the service tool.

Remove the nut (15), the spacer (20) and the outer pulley (18).

Remove the first Woodruff key (16) from the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the intermediate spacer (19) and the inner pulley (18).

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Remove the inner spacer (17) and second Woodruff key (16) on the timing belt driveshaft.

It is now possible to remove the circlip (10) on the driveshaft.

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Refitting the timing belt driveshaft rollers
To fit the circlip (10) to the driveshaft, use the protective cap 88713.2834.

Install the inner spacer (17) on the driveshaft, taking care to align the notch in the spacer with the slot for the
Woodruff key.

Fit the first Woodruff key (16) on the timing belt driveshaft.

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Locate the inner pulley (18).

Refit the second Woodruff key (16) and the washer (19).

Locate the outer pulley (18) and the spacer (20).
Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the driveshaft.

Fit the nut (15).

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Important
To prevent the nuts working loose and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking nutson all timing belt pulleys on reassembly.
Lock rotation of the pulleys with service tool no. 88713.1805 and, using the insert supplied with the wrenchin conjunction with a torque wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque.

Refitting the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the threads of the studs
To fit the studs correctly on the cylinder heads, note the references of the parts given in the photographs.
Insert the idler and tensioner pulley mounting studs (12) in the cylinder heads and tighten them using service
tool no. 88713.1821.
Tighten the pulley shafts to the specified torque.

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Reassembly of the timing pulleys
Fit the pulley (11) on the hub (24), aligning the timing mark (D) on the pulley with the timing mark on the (E) on
the hub.
Fit the washer (23) up against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (F) with the timing marks on the pulley andthe hub.
Insert the three bolts (22) in the threaded holes (G) of the hub.
Tighten the bolts (22) to the specified torque.

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Rimontaggio puleggie testa / tenditori fissi
Check that the keyway on the end of the camshaft is in good condition and without burrs.

Fit a Woodruff key (B) in the keyway of each camshaft.

Fit the pulley (11) on the camshaft, inserting the Woodruff key in the in the slot (C) in the pulley.
Apply the recommended grease to the threads on the end of the camshaft.
Repeat the procedure on the other camshaft.

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ENGINEFit the service tool 88713.1806 on to the pulleys to prevent rotation.
Apply the recommended grease to the mating face of the nut (21).
Fit the nut (21).
Carry out the same operations on the other camshaft.
Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.

Using the bush supplied with service tool 88713.1806 and a torque wrench, tighten the nuts (21) to their
specified torque.

Fit the idler pulleys (13), complete with bearings, on to their mounting studs on the cylinder heads and tighten
down the nuts (8) to the specified torque.

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Unscrew the bolts (22) securing the pulleys, turning them anti-clockwise through 90° ± 5°.
Check that the pulleys have no endfloat and can rotate freely at all points along the full length of the slots.

Refitting the timing belts
Turn the pulleys on the timing belt driveshaft until the timing mark on the outer roller is aligned with the mark on
the right-hand crankcase cover.
In this condition, the horizontal cylinder piston will be at top dead centre.

Install the service tool 88713.2011 in the alternator cover to hold the crankshaft against rotation and secure it
the relative pin.

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ENGINEFit the service tool no. 88765.1524 to prevent rotation of the camshafts: one for the vertical cylinder head and
one for the horizontal cylinder head.
Fix the tools to the rocker cover with the pin (C).
Important
To ensure correct timing, the bolts (22) securing the pulleys to the hubs must be loose and positioned in thecentres of their slots.

Fit the vertical cylinder timing belt around the camshaft pulleys and pass it behind the idler pulley.
Repeat the operation for the horizontal cylinder belt.
Notes
If the used belts are to be refitted, position them in their original direction of rotation and on their original
cylinder.

Fit the tensioner pulleys (9) on the mounting studs on the two cylinder heads.
Start the nut (8) on the crankshaft

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Check the timing belt tension and adjust if necessary as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belttension”
Warning
Check the tension on the belt sections (D) and (E) shown in the figure.

Once the belts are correctly tensioned, ensure that the nuts (8) securing the tensioner pulley (9) and the bolts(22) are tightened to the specified torque.
Remove the camshaft holding tool 88765.1524 and the crankshaft holding tool 88713.2011.

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Refitting the timing covers
Locate the horizontal cylinder timing cover (3) and secure it in place with bolts (4).

Do the same with the vertical cylinder outer cover (1).
Tighten the bolts (4) progressively in a crosswise pattern to the specified torque.

Notes
If the above operations have been carried out with the engine installed in the frame, refit the previously
removed parts.
Reconnect the electrical system components on right-hand side of engine
Refit the side fairings

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11.9 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

1) Cylinder head2) Stud bolt3) Special screw
4) Seal5) Horizontal cylinder head rocker cover6) Vertical cylinder head rocker cover7) Special screw
8) Washer
9) Cylinder head gasket10) Grub screw
11) Locating dowel12) Union13) Clamp
14) Horizontal cylinder exhaust camshaft15) Horizontal cylinder intake camshaft16) Plug17) Oil seal18) Vertical cylinder exhaust camshaft19) Key20) Vertical cylinder intake camshaft21) Bolt
22) Timing side support23) Opposite side support
24) Seal25) Intake manifold
26) Bolt27) Washer

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Removal of the camshafts
Remove the coils
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the timing belt covers, the timing belts and timing belt pulleys
Remove the oil pump from the engine
Unscrew and remove the bolts (7) from the rocker covers.
Remove the rocker cover (6).

Remove the gaskets (4) and (9).

Repeat the same procedure for the other rocker cover.
Remove the seals (8) on the rocker cover.

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Unscrew the bolts (3) securing the camshaft supports.
Withdraw the camshaft supports (22) and (23) straight out from the cylinder head, taking care not to damage
the machined faces and locating dowels (11).

Remove the exhaust camshaft (14) and the intake camshaft (15), and slide off the seal rings (17) on their ends.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head..

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If necessary, unscrew the stud bolts (2) from the cylinder heads.

Checking the camshafts and supports
Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving.
Worn cams are frequently the cause of poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Place the camshaft between two centres and check the runout using two dial gauges.
Service limit: 0.1 mm.

Visually inspect the camshaft tracks for scoring and abnormal wear. If any of the above defects are found, thecamshaft should be renewed.
If you find scoring or excessive wear, check the operation of the engine lubrication circuit.

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Refitting the camshafts
If the stud bolts (2) were removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the short end of the stud bolts (2),i.e. the end that is to be screwed into the cylinder head.
Tighten the lock nuts (2) to the prescribed torque

Check that the camshafts (marked “VA” and “VS” for the vertical head and “OS” and “OA” for the horizontalhead) are clean and in good condition. If the camshafts are not new, use emery cloth to remove signs of wearon the cam and support surfaces, working on a flat surface.

Lubricate with the specified lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus), the camshaft seats on both the cylinder head andthe supports (22) and (23) (green zone).
Fill the reservoirs (A) with the recommended lubricant (Molycote M55 Plus).

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Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the support (22) shown in red in the photo.
Clean off any excess sealant.
Notes
Only apply sealant to the timing side support (22): do not apply to support (23).

Install the camshafts (14) and (15) in the cylinder head, and rotate them to distribute the lubricant evenly.
Check that the locating dowels (11) are present.

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Fit the supports (22) and (23) so they are perfectly seated on the cylinder head, checking that the number
stamped in zone (B) of the cylinder head is the same as the number stamped in zone (C) of the support.
Important
The support (22) must be installed on the timing side.
Bed down the supports.
Apply engine oil to the threads and undersides of the heads of the bolts (3).
Insert the bolts (3).

Pre-tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque.
Pre-tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Then finally tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Tighten one support at a time, working in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8.
Remove any excess sealant from between the cylinder head and the support.
Turn the camshafts by hand to check that they rotate freely.

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Notes
The bolt (3) in position 1 must always be installed on the intake and timing side.

Important
Check the valve lift

Oil seals
Lubricate the oil seals (17) with denatured alcohol.
Fit the installation tool supplied with service tool 88713.2861 on the camshaft and install the oil seal on thecylinder head with the spring side.
Important
Always fit new oil seals on reassembly.
Use the drift provided with the tool and a mallet to seat the oil seals.

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When correctly installed, the oil seal should be flush with the bevel of the cylinder head bore.

Rocker cover
Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the rocker cover shown in red in the photo.

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Fit the gaskets (4) and (9) on the rocker cover, as shown in the figure.

Apply sealant (Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket) at the four points of the cylinder head shown in red in the photo.

Rocker cover identification: The vertical head rocker cover (6) has a nib (A) on the left-hand side (exhaustside), whereas rocker cover (5) has a nib (B) on the right-hand side (exhaust side).

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Locate the cover (6) on the cylinder head, aligning the four fixing holes.
Install the four washers (8) in the cover fixing holes, with the rubber sides facing the cover.

Insert the bolts (7).
Tighten screws (7) to the specified torque

Remove excess sealant from the area of application.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.
Refit all the components removed in the procedure.
Refit the oil pump
Refit the timing belt pulleys, timing belts and the timing belt covers
Refit the engine to the frame
Refit the coils

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Removal of the intake manifold and coolant union
Remove the manifolds (25) by undoing the bolts (21).
Notes
When the lower two bolts (21) of the vertical cylinder head manifold are unscrewed, the expansion tank support
will come free.

Loosen the clamp (A) and remove the hose (B).
Unscrew the union (12) and recover the seal (24).

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11.10 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

1) Closing rocker arm shaft2) Opening rocker arm shaft3) Opening rocker arm4) Closing rocker arm (left)
5) Valve opening shim6) Half rings
7) Valve closing shim8) Oil seal
9) Valve guide10) Exhaust valve seat11) Exhaust valve

12) Plug13) Intake valve seat14) Intake valve15) Aluminium gasket16) Closing rocker arm (right)17) Spacer18) Valve return spring (right)19) Valve return spring (left)
20) Cylinder head21) Cylinder head nut22) Washer

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Removal of the cylinder heads
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the coolant hoses
Remove the timing belt covers and the timing belts
Remove the oil pumpUsing the service tool 88713.2676, unscrew the nuts (21) on the cylinder head studs.

Remove the cylinder head nuts (21) and special washers (22).

Remove the cylinder head assembly by lifting it off the engine studs.
Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.

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Removal of the valves
Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine
Remove the timing belt pulleys
Remove the camshafts
Raise the rocker arm (3) and remove the opening shim (5) from the valves with a pair of pliers.

Push down the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) and the closing shim (7).
Remove the half rings (6) from the valves with a magnetic screwdriver.
Extract the closing shims (7) from the valve using a pair of pliers.

Withdraw the valves (14) and (11) from underside of the cylinder head.

Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.

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Removing the valve rocker arms
With the cylinder head in the condition described in the previous paragraph, remove the rocker arms.
Unscrew the eight plugs (12) and recover the seals (15).

Using an M5 bolt, withdraw the shafts (2) of the opening rocker arms (3) on the exhaust and intake sides.
Remove the opening rocker arms (3).

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Using accessory (C) of the rocker arm spring tensioning kit 88713.2069 installed between the spring and theinner wall of the cylinder head, move the straight end of the rocker arm return spring (19) and (18) and insert itin the drilled shaft.

Use the shaft to slide the end of the spring into its final position.

Using an M5 bolt, withdraw the shafts (1) of the closing rocker arms on the exhaust and intake sides.

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Remove the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the springs (18) and (19) with the spacers (17).

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Remove the seal rings (8) from the ends of the valve guides.

Repeat the same procedure for the other cylinder head.

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Overhaul of cylinder head components
Cylinder heads
Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Remove any scale from the coolant ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, ridges or other damage.

Check that the cylinder barrel mating surfaces of the cylinder head are free of carbon deposits and scale. If
this is not the case, spread diamond dressing compound (6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface andslide the cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure until a flat finish is obtained.

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Valve seat
Visually inspect the valve seats: for cracking or pitting.

Minor damage can be repaired by grinding with special 45° and 60° single-blade grinders. Grind the valves andcheck the seal.

If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.
Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.

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Proceed as follows:
Remove the worn seats, grinding carefully to avoid any damage to cylinder head bores.
Check the diameter of head bores and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of 0.04
to 0.10 mm.

Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150° and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Drive the seats perfectly square into the head bores using the appropriate valve guide seat installer
88713.2846 and 88713.2847.
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and grind the seats to the following dimensions:
CA = Ø41,6± 0.025 mm.
CS = Ø33.6± 0.025 mm
S = 1.2 mm.
D = 0.2 to 0.4 mm
Important
Do not use any lapping compound after final grinding.

It is advisable to smooth the joint between the intake valves seats and the intake ducts (F = before; G = after).

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Valve guides
Check the inner surface of the valve guides for cracking or distortion.

Thoroughly check the dimensions of the inner surface of the valve guide. Measure the inside diameter with abore diameter gauge.
Measure the diameter at different positions of the valve guide.

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The assembly clearance must be:highest measured value – lowest measured value = 0.03 to 0.045 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.08 mm.
Change the valve guides when the ovality exceeds permissible limit or the clearance to the valve stem isoutside the tolerance range.
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve.
Replacement valve guides are available with outside diameter oversizes of 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 mm.
Change the valve guides as follows:heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 150 °C.
remove the original valve guides using service tool no. 88713.2842
allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seats.
select the most suitable valve guide so as to obtain an assembly clearance with the cylinder head of 0.022 to
0.051 mm; heat the cylinder head up again and chill the new valve guides with dry ice;lubricate the seats in the head and install the valve guides using the appropriate service tools and referring todimension given in the figure;
A= 22.4±0.15 mm.
B= 28.45±0.15 mm.
Hone the mating surface with a reamer.

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Checking the valve
Check that the stem and the surface that contacts the valve seat are in good condition.
There must be no pitting, cracks, deformations or signs of wear.
Warning
The valves cannot be ground.

Perform the following checks.
Measure the diameter of the valve stem (B) at various points along the section that runs in the valve guide.

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ENGINE
Check the valve stem for buckling. Place it on a “V” block and measure deformation with a dial gauge.
Service limit: 0.053 mm.
Check that valve head band (at 45° to valve head top face) is concentric to the valve stem as follows:
place valve on a V block, set a dial gauge at right angles to head and rotate valve.
Nominal concentricity: 0.01 mm.
Service limit: 0.03 mm.

Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between the valve
and seat is 1.4 to 1.6 mm (1.05 to 1.35 mm when new).
Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than the above limit.

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Checking the valve seal
After grinding the seats it is important to check the seal between the valve face and the seat: if the seat contact
area (S) on the valve is wider than the 45° band (W) this could lead to poor sealing.

Checking the rocker arms
Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.
Check the condition of rocker arm bore and shaft.
Assembly clearance: 0.025 to 0.049 mm
Wear limit: 0.08 mm.

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Opening and closing shims - Springs
Check the condition of the contact surfaces of the valve opening and closing shims: there must be no signs ofwear. Check the condition of the closing rocker arm return springs:
Check for cracking, distortion, or loss of elasticity.

Reassembly of the cylinder head
Notes
The cylinder heads are identical. Only the definition of the intake and exhaust side determines whether they are
to be installed on the vertical or horizontal cylinder.
The exhaust side can be identified by the three threaded holes on the flange.

The intake side can be identified by the presence of four threaded holes on the flange.

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All the photos in this chapter refer to a vertical cylinder head.

Valve guide seals
Position the cylinder head on the service stand 88713.2103.
Use alcohol to lubricate the valve guide seals (8) and insert them from the spring side onto tool 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a mallet to tap the seals (8) home into the valve guides.

Reassembly of the closing rocker arms.
Check that the rocker arms are not scored or show signs of breakage in the area of contact with the camshaft
and shim. The closing rocker arm shafts are 10 mm in diameter, whereas the opeining rocker arm shafts are 9
mm in diameter.
Using an M5 bolt, position the closing rocker shaft (1) towards the exhaust side of the cylinder head.

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Locate the spacer (17) on the shaft.

Locate the spring (18) on the spacer (17).

Locate the closing rocker arm (16) and drive the shaft home.

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Proceed in a similar manner to install the closing rocker arm (4) with the spring (19) from the exhaust side.

Load the springs (18) and (19) on the closing rocker arms (16) and (4) respectively using service tool no88713.2069.

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Proceed to install the closing rocker arms (4) and (16), the relative springs and shafts on the intake side (C) inthe same manner as described for the exhaust side (D).
Notes
Always install the closing rocker arms on the exhaust side before those on the intake side.
Warning
Take care not to damage the shoe of the closing rocker arm with the intake spring during assembly.

Refitting the valves, closing shims and half rings
Carefully clean the two intake valve seats (A) and the two exhaust valve seats (B).
Lubricate the stems of the two intake valves (14) and the two exhaust valves (11) with engine oil.
Install the valves in respective seats in the cylinder head.

Hold the closing rocker arm (16) pushed downwards and fit the closing shim (7) on the valve stem. If using theold cylinder head, start by fitting the original shim.

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Insert the new half rings (6) and release the rocker arm to ensure that they seat inside the shim (7). To ensure
the half-rings are seated in the shim, tap the end of the rocker arm (16) with a rubber mallet.

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Repeat the procedure with the opposite valve and check that the top of the valve stem is aligned with thesurface of the shim (7); if it is not, repeat the half-ring installation procedure.

Install the closing shims on the intake valves (14) using the method described above for the exhaust valves.
Refit the camshafts to check the valve closing clearances.

Refitting the opening shims and opening rocker arms
Using an M5 bolt, position the opening rocker arm shaft (2) (diameter 9 mm).

Locate the opening rocker arm (3) and drive the shaft home.

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Install the four rocker arms (3) in the manner described above.

Raise the opening rocker arm (3) and install the opening shim (5) so it seats against the valve stem.

Release the rocker arm so that it rests against the shim.
Ensure the shim is correctly seated by lightly tapping the rocker arm shoe (A) with plastic mallet.
Refit the camshafts to check the valve opening clearances.

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Apply the recommended threadlocker to the plugs (12).
Fit the eight plugs (12) with their seals (15): position the seals so that the square edges face the cylinder head.
Tighten the plugs to the specified torque.

Refit the camshaft supports
Refit the timing belt pulleys
Refit the rocker covers
Refit the cylinder head assembly

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Fitting the cylinder head assemblies
Before fitting the head, check that gasket is installed on the mating surface between head and cylinder
Notes
When fitting the gasket, side (E) with the stamped code must be in contact with the cylinder head.

Lower the cylinder head carefully over the studs. Take care not to damage the threads.
Fit the special washers (22) and nuts (21) onto the cylinder head studs.

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Tighten the nuts (21) on the studs in the sequence 1-3-2-4 using service tool 88713.2676 in conjunction with atorque wrench.
Pre-tighten and tighten the cylinder head nuts (21) to the specified torque.

Refit the coolant hoses
Refit the oil pump
Refit the timing belts and covers
Refit the engine to the frame

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11.11 - Cylinder / piston assemblies

1) Piston
2) Gudgeon pin circlip
3) Gudgeon pin
4) Set of piston rings
5) Cylinder-crankcase gasket
6) Water pump outlet union
7) Hose clip8) Horizontal cylinder coolant inlet hose
9) Vertical cylinder coolant inlet hose
10) Cylinder barrel11) Cylinder head gasket
12) BushSez11-98

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Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly
Loosen the clamps (7) and remove the hoses (8) and (9) from the cylinder barrels (10) and from the left-handcrankcase cover.

Unscrew the unions (6).

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Notes
The following procedure is described with the engine removed from the frame and the cylinder head removed
from the engine.
Remove the cylinder head gasket (11) from the cylinder barrel.

Remove the locating dowels (12).

Use service tool no. 88765.1523 to bring the piston of the horizontal cylinder to TDC.

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Carefully lift the cylinder barrel (10) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical.
If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue tolift the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (3).
Since insertion of piston in the barrel is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove thepiston together with the barrel as described below.
Stuff the crankcase opening with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material from falling in.

Remove the circlip (2) from the gudgeon pin (3) on the clutch side.

Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the barrel/piston assembly clear of the crankcase studs. If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully
withdraw it from the cylinder.

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Remove the four O-rings (A) located on the crankcase studs between the barrel and the base gasket (5).

ImportantMark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - H= Horizontal
To remove the vertical barrel-piston assembly, bring the vertical piston to TDC and proceed as for removal of
the horizontal cylinder barrel.

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Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components
Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at 50 mm from the top surface
and determine the size class to which it belongs in accordance with the values specified in Sect. Cylinder/
Piston. Measure the bore diameter again at three different heights A, B and C and at positions offset by 90°;check that the measurements of taper and ovality in the bore fall within the range specified in Sect. Cylinder/
Piston.
In the event of damage or excessive wear the barrel must be renewed as it has a silicon carbide coating (which
provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot berebored.
The cylinder barrels are marked with letters (stamped between two oil return ways) indicating their size class.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.

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Overhauling the piston
Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves of any carbon deposits.
Inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, orother damage.
The piston diameter must be measured at 7.5 mm up from the bottom of the skirt at a 90º angle to the gudgeon
pin. The pistons must always be renewed as a pair.

Checking the piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked by a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they
belong. Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
For the values, refer to Sect. “Cylinder/Piston”.

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Overhauling the gudgeon pins
Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The
well-lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
The assembly clearance with the piston at the time of installation must be 0.002-0.008 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.035 mm.
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.

Overhauling the piston rings
The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Replacement pistons are supplied completewith piston rings and gudgeon pin.

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Checking the piston ring-grooves clearance
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top compression ring (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others(2nd and oil control ring).
The markings punched on the piston rings must always be facing upwards.

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Checking the piston ring/cylinder clearance
Insert the ring in the cylinder bore so that it is positioned 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel; makesure that the ring is positioned perfectly square to the cylinder walls by checking with a gauge at several points
around the ring that the top surface of the ring is exactly 50 mm from the top face of the cylinder barrel.
Measure the piston ring gap (A):Distance (A) mm

Wear limit

Top compression ring

0,2 ÷ 0,4

0,8Second compression ring

0,3 ÷ 0,5

0,8

Oil control ring

0,2 ÷ 0,7

1,0

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11.12 - Clutch assembly: clutch

1) Clutch spring2) Collar3) Clutch lifter4) Bolt5) Lock washer
6) Cush drive rubber
7) Cush drive hub8) Clutch plates
9) Thrust washer
10) Clutch centre
11) Bolt
12) Pressure plate

13) Clutch drum14) Bearing
15) O-ring16) Spacer17) O-ring18) Nut
19) Locating dowel
20) Bush21) Clutch cover gasket22) Clutch cover23) Bolt
24) Bolt

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Description
The clutch is disengaged by a slave cylinder consisting of a piston (1) housed inside a cylinder mounted to theleft-hand crankcase cover.
This piston (1) moves a pushrod (2), which runs through gearbox input shaft and operates the pressure plate(3) located on top of the clutch plate pack (4).
Motion is transmitted from the clutch centre (5) to the primary shaft through special cush drive rubbers (6),which make for smoother clutch engagement and thus prevent damage to transmission parts. Before working
on the internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly.
Then deal with the problem in a systematic manner.

The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunctions.
A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:- excessive play of the control lever;- distorted clutch plates;- incorrect spring tension;- faulty clutch release mechanism;- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.
A clutch which slips may be caused by:- insufficient play of the control lever;- worn clutch plates;- weakened springs;- faulty clutch release mechanism;- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.
A noisy clutch may be caused by:- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;- damaged primary drive gear teeth;- excessive play between driving plate tabs and clutch drum;- worn gear/clutch drum bearings;- worn cush drive rubbers;- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.

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Removal of the clutch
Remove the side fairings
Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Undo the four retaining bolts (23) and the two retaining bolts (24) from the clutch cover (22).
Remove the cover and the sound deadening gasket (21).

Unscrew the retaining bolts (4) and remove the collars (2) and the clutch springs (1).

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Remove the pressure plate (12).

Remove the clutch lifter (3) and its O-ring (17) using a suitable drift and a plastic headed mallet.
Then remove the bearing (14) installed from inner side of the pressure plate (12) using a drift of suitable size.
Notes
Once disturbed, the bearing must be renewed.

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Remove the clutch plates (8).
When removing the clutch plates, keep them together in pairs in the correct order and set them aside, tying
them together, if necessary.

Restrain the clutch centre (10) using service tool 88713.2133 and remove the centre nut (18).

Remove the washer (5), bush (20) and thrust washer (9).

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Remove the clutch centre (10) complete with the cush drive rubbers from the shaft.

When renewing the cush drive rubbers (6), use a drift to remove the hub (7) from the clutch centre (10) andovercome the resistance of the rubbers.

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Slide off the spacer (16), taking care not to damage its internal O-ring (15).
Visually check the O-ring for wear and renew it if necessary.
Locate the service tool 88713.1805 to prevent the clutch drum from rotating when loosening the screws (11).
Notes
If no cover parts need to be serviced, leave the clutch drum assembly and the primary drive gear installed on
the clutch cover.
Undo the eight bolts (11) securing the clutch drum to the primary drive gear.
Remove the clutch drum.

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Inspection and overhaul of the clutch components
Checking the clearance between the clutch drum and the friction plates
Insert the friction plate (A) in the clutch drum (B) and measure tang-to-slot clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
The clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, renew the plates and, if necessary, the clutch drum.

Overhaul of the friction plates
The friction plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates. It should not be less than 2.8 mm.
Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max flatness error: 0.2 mm.

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Overhaul of the pressure plate
Check the condition of the bearing: renew the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surface of last plain steel plate. If extremely scored, polish it in the same manner as
described previously for the cylinder head surface.
Check the condition of the spring guide cups and always replace the spring retaining collars.

Overhaul of the clutch springs
Measure the length “L” of each spring:
Minimum length: 36,5 mm.
Renew any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.

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11.13 - Clutch assembly: right-hand side crankcase cover

1) Locating dowel2) O-ring3) Plug4) Oil level plug5) Bolt6) Ring7) O-ring8) Seal
9) Switch
10) Bush11) Oil seal
12) Shim13) Circlip
14) Right-hand side crankcase cover15) Bolt
16) Plug17) Seal18) Grub screw
19) Bolt

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Removal of the right-hand side crankcase cover
Remove the side fairings
Drain the engine oil
Remove the clutch centre
Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Undo and remove the six short bolts (5) and the long retaining bolts (15) and (19) from the crankcase cover(14).

Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase half.
Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover from the crankcase, taking care to recover the locating dowel (1).
Important
The right-hand crankcase cover (14) can be removed complete with the clutch drum and primary drive gear.
Remove the O-ring (2) located next to the crankcase oil way.

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Disassembly of the right-hand side crankcase cover
Remove the plug (3) and the O-ring (7), the engine oil pressure sensor (9) and the seal (8), the plug (16) andthe seal (17) from the crankcase cover.

Remove the circlip (13) and withdraw the shim (12) and the oil seal (11).
The drilled bush (10) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit. Remove it using a suitable puller.
Inspect the oil seal (11) and renew it if necessary.

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To check the condition of the oil seal (6) installed in the crankcase cover between the clutch drum and theprimary drive gear, first remove the latter two components Sect. “Removal of the clutch”.

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11.14 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

1) O-ring2) Oil seal
3) Primary drive gears
4) Bearing5) Circlip
6) Bearing7) Spacer8) Spacer9) Spacer10) Lock washer11) Nut
12) Circlip

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Removal of the primary drive gears
Remove the side fairings
Remove the clutch drum, the clutch centre and the clutch plate pack
Remove the right-hand side crankcase coverNotes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame.
Withdraw from the input shaft the spacer (8) and the O-ring (1) seated against the bearing (6) of the driven
gear (C) of the primary drive (3).
Remove the driven gear (C) of the primary drive (3) complete with the bearings and oil seal.

To renew the inner parts of the gear, use a suitable drift (A) and a support (B).
After removing the oil seal (2), tap from the inside towards the exterior using part of the inner race of bearing(4) to be removed, after moving aside spacer (5) located between the two bearings.
Tap on different points to remove the components squarely.
Use the same technique to remove the bearing (6).

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ImportantOnce disturbed, the oil seal (2), circlip (12) and the spacer (5) must be renewed. The latter two components
must always be renewed as a pair.

Remove the spacer (7) from the gearbox input shaft.
Remove the oil pump (Sect. N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump) in order to be able to disengage the driving gear
(D).

Straighten out the lock washer (10) on the nut (11) securing the driving gear (D) of the primary drive pair.

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Install the tool 88713.2102 on the gear (D) and hold it against rotation by inserting a pin in one of the engine
mounting bolt holes.

Loosen the retaining nut (11) of the driving gear (D) using a socket wrench of suitable length.
Remove the nut (11) and the lock washer (10).

Remove the driving gear (D) of the primary drive and the spacer (9) from the crankshaft.

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Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash
Carefully degrease the splined end of the crankshaft and the corresponding internal splines of the primary gear.
Fit the inner spacer (9) to the shaft with its flat side facing outwards.

Fit gear (D) onto the crankshaft with oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with washer (10) and nut (11).

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If fitting a new primary drive gear pair (3), check the backlash.
Temporarily fit the gear (C) complete with the bearings and the oil seal onto the gearbox input shaft and fix adial gauge on the crankcase; position the dial gauge stylus on a gear tooth.
Turn the driven gear (D) to mesh the teeth and check with the dial tool that backlash ranges between 0.05 and0.07 mm.
Measure the backlash at 16 diametrically opposed points of the gear.

If the measured values are outside the permissible tolerance, change the position of the driven gear (C) on the
input shaft leaving crankcase gear (D) untouched. If still outside tolerance values, renew the primary drive gear
pair.
When this test is complete, finally tighten the previously installed nut (11).
Install the tool 88713.2102 on the gear (D) and hold it against rotation by inserting a pin in one of the engine
mounting bolt holes.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque with a torque wrench, turning clockwise.

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Stake the washer (10) on the gear (D) in correspondence with the milled location and on the nut (11) in a
diagonally opposed position.

Refit the oil pump and check the meshing play between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the
crankshaft
Refit the right-hand crankcase cover
Refit the clutch drum, clutch centre and the clutch plate packRefit the side fairings

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11.15 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

1) Return spring
2) Washer3) Special screw
4) Gear pawl assembly5) Interlock plunger holder
6) Seal7) Detent ball spring8) Ball9) Circlip
10) Selector claw return spring11) Shim, thk. 0.5 mm
12) Shim, thk. 0.2 mm13) Ring
14) Nut

15) Selector drum control fork16) Gearchange lever pin17) Shaft with gearchange lever arm18) Gearchange lever arm return spring19) Bolt
20) Washer
21) Bolt
22) Washer
23) Locating ring24) Stop plate25) Shim, thk. 0.2 mm26) Shim, thk. 0.5 mm27) Gearchange mechanismompletoSez11-128

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Removal of the gearchange mechanism
Remove the left-hand side crankcase cover and flywheel/alternator assembly
Remove the right-hand side crankcase cover complete with clutch drum and primary drive gear
Undo and remove the bolts (18) and (20) securing the gearchange mechanism (25).
Remove the gearchange mechanism complete with the shaft, spring, and stop plate.

ImportantVisually inspect the gear selector claw (14) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector
drum.

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If it proves necessary to change components, disassemble the gear selector lever as shown in the exploded
view.
Reassemble the gearchange mechanism, orienting the eccentric pin (15) in such a way that the lever arm (16)is positioned centrally with respect to the shoulders of the stop plate (23).

Now tighten the nut (13) to the specified torqueSez11-130

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Disassembly of gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly
Unscrew the interlock plunger screw (5) and remove the seal (6), spring (7) and the detent ball (8).

Unscrew the RH crankcase half bolt (3) and remove the pawl (4), washer (2) and spring (1).

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11.16 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

1) Shim, thk. 1 mm
2) Gearbox input shaft
3) Shim, thk. 0.5 mm4) Needle roller bearing5) 5th speed driving gear6) Splined washer, thk. 0.5
7) Circlip8) 3rd- 4th speed driving gear9) 6th speed driving gear10) 2nd speed driving gear11) Shim, thk. 1.8 mm
12) Splined washer, thk. 0.5
13) Roller bearing
14) Oil seal
15) Shim16) Selector drum assembly17) Needle roller bearing18) 1st speed driven gear19) Shim, thk. 1 mm20) 5th speed driven gear21) 4th speed driven gear22) 3rd speed driven gear23) 6th speed driven gear24) 2nd speed driven gear25) Gearbox output shaft26) Shim27) Shim, thk. 1 mm28) 1st, 4th- 2nd, 3rd speed selector fork29) 5th, 6th speed selector fork
30) Selector fork shaft31) Shim, thk. 1 mm32) Needle roller retaining circlip (square cross-section)33) Special needle roller (square cross-section)34) Selector drum

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Removal of the gearbox assembly
Remove the engine from the frame
Separate the crankcase halves
Withdraw the selector fork shafts (30).
Move the forks (28) and (29) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum (34).

Withdraw the selector drum (16) taking care not to lose shims (31) and (27) mounted on the shaft. Note that thepositions of the shims must not be inverted.

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Now you can renew the needle roller retaining ring (32) and the special needle rollers (33).

Remove gear selector forks (29) and (28).
Remove the gearbox input (2) and output (25) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the spacers
on the ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner races (A) are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox input (2) and output(25) shafts Sect. “Separation of the crankcase halves”.

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Disassembly of the gearbox shafts
Place the shaft in a vice in such a way as to facilitate the disassembly operations.
Important
Take care not to invert the positions of the shims on reassembly: this would potentially lead to jamming whenusing the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the engine crankcase.

Disassembly of the gearbox output shaft
Remove the chain-side clearance washer (15) and clutch-side clearance washer (26) from the output shaft.

Withdraw the first speed driven gear (18) with the roller cage (17) and the shim (19).

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Remove the fifth speed driven gear (20).

Use two flat screwdrivers to remove the circlip (7) taking care not to damage the shaft surface.
Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).

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Withdraw the fourth speed driven gear (21) with the roller cage (4) and splined washer (12).

Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with the roller cage (4) and the splined washer (6).

Remove the circlip (7) and remove the sixth speed driven gear (23).

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Remove the circlip (7) and withdraw the splined washer (6) and the second speed driven gear (24).

Withdraw the roller cage (4) and the shim (3). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox
output shaft (25).

Disassembly of the gearbox input shaft
Remove the chain-side shim (11) and the clutch-side shim (1) from the input shaft.

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Remove the second speed driving gear (10). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the circlip (7) and the splined
washer (6).
Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing circlip (7).

Remove the sixth speed driving gear (9) with its roller cage (4). Remove the splined washer (6) and the circlip(7).

Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (8).

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Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).

Remove the fifth speed driving gear (5) with the roller cage (4).

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Slide the shim (3) off the input shaft (2).

Overhaul of the gearbox
Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no signof wear on the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.
At each overhaul, check the condition of the needle roller cage (13) and the oil seal (14) located on the end of
the gearbox input shaft: remove them if necessary using a suitable puller and renew them.
Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.

Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork - gear groove,and fork pin - desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float. Restore the correct endfloat by shimming
the gearbox shafts and the selector drum with suitable shims.
For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end float values, refer to Sect. “Gearbox”.
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Inspection of the gear selector forks
Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be renewed as they may lead to difficulties in gearchanging or may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to renew the gear or the fork by
referring to the limits specified for each part Sect. “Gearbox”.

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Inspection of the gear selector drum
Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the slot on the selector drum.
If the service limit is exceeded, determine which part must be renewed by comparing these dimensions withthose of new components Sect. “Gearbox”.
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, ordeformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever partis most worn.

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11.17 - FlywheeL - alternator

1) Bolt2) Cylinder coolant inlet union
3) Ignition inspection plug4) Oil seal5) O-ring6) Cover7) Bolt8) Aluminium gasket
9) Cable guide10) Washer
11) Bolt
12) Bolt
13) Bolt
14) Flange15) Flanged nut16) Belleville washer17) Flywheel18) Washer
19) Inner ring20) Needle roller bearing21) Electric starter driven gear22) Starter clutch23) Flywheel-starter clutch assembly24) Alternator rotor25) Bolt
26) Bolt
27) Bearing28) Circlip
29) Left-hand side crankcase cover30) Locating dowel
31) Bracket32) Bolt
33) Alternator stator

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Removal of the left-hand side crankcase cover
Remove the front sprocket cover
Drain the engine oil
Remove the clutch pushrod
Remove the pump-cylinder hoses
Remove the water pump-radiator hose
Notes
This operation is described for an engine removed from the frame since all reassembly procedures are easierwith the engine on the bench.
Disconnect the alternator wiring connector from the main wiring loom (A).

Unscrew the two retaining bolts (7) of the centre cap (6) over the end of the crankshaft.

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Unscrew the left-hand crankcase cover bolts (1), (11), (12) and (13).

Fix service tool 88713.1749 to the holes of the two bolts (7) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to remove the cover (29) from the LH crankcase half.

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On the cover in correspondence with the gearchange shaft, there is an oil seal (4) that may be damaged whenremoving the crankcase cover.
Always check the condition of this oil seal and renew it if damaged.

Disassembly of the left-hand crankcase cover
Undo the three stator retaining bolts (25) and the two cable guide bracket (31) retaining bolts (32) from inside
the LH crankcase cover.
Remove the stator (33) and the cable guide (31).

The left-hand side crankcase cover is fitted with a bearing (27), held in place by circlip (28), which locates on
the end of the crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (28) with circlip pliers.
Remove the bearing (27) using a universal puller.
Be careful when fitting the new bearing (27) to ensure it is positioned with the shielded side facing away fromthe cover.
Secure the bearing with the circlip (28), ensuring that it is correctly fitted in its seat in the LH crankcase cover(29).

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Unscrew the horizontal and vertical cylinder coolant inlet unions (2).
When fitting new components, apply the recommended threadlocker and tighten to the specified torque.
Important
The unions (2) may also be removed without removing the LH crankcase cover (29) from the engine.
Disassemble the components of the water pump (B) as described in Sect. “Removal of the water pump”.

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Removal of the flywheel/alternator assembly
Use service tool no. 88713.2874 fixed to the M10 side stand fixing holes (D).
Lock the tool to the flywheel with screw (E).
Unscrew the alternator/flywheel retaining nut (15).
Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the wrench socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of
the wrench suddenly slipping off the nut.

Remove the nut (15), the Belleville washer (16) and the flywheel assembly (23) with the driven gear (21) fromthe crankshaft.

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Remove the inner ring (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the washer (18).
Important
Check the bush (19), the needle roller bearing (20) and the inner washer (18) for wear. Renew if worn.

Overhaul of the flywheel/alternator assembly
Check that the inner part of alternator rotor (24) shows no signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the needle races do not show signs of wear ordamage of any kind.
If there is any malfunction, remove the whole assembly.

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Disassembly of the flywheel/alternator
Undo the eight bolts (26) and remove the rotor (24) from the flywheel.

Insert two of the bolts (26) just removed from the flywheel rotor-side in their holes in order to remove the flange(14) and the starter clutch (22) from the flywheel (17).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange. To remove it, use a suitable drift.

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Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assemblyInstall the starter clutch (22) in the flange (14) to bring the edge (A) of the clutch up against the flange.
Important
Assemble the components (starter clutch and flange) so that the edge (A) of the starter clutch is positioned onside of the flange with the bevelled edge (B).

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Seat the flange (14) with the starter clutch (22) in the flywheel (17), aligning the flange locating hole (C) with the
flywheel locating hole (D).
Notes
The flange locating hole (C) is the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E).
The locating hole (D) of the flywheel can be either one of the two holes (F).
Use suitable tools to align the locating holes.

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Important
Assemble the components (flange and flywheel) so that edge (A) of the starter clutch (22) is enclosed between
the flange and flywheel.

Install the rotor (24) on the flywheel (17), aligning the flywheel locating hole (D) with the rotor locating hole (G).
Notes
The flywheel locating hole (D) of the flywheel is the hole that was previously aligned with the flange locating
hole (C), i.e. the hole with the countersunk lead-in (E).
The rotor locating hole (G) is the hole positioned on the same diameter as the fixing holes (H).
Use suitable tools to align the locating holes.
Apply threadlocker to the rotor/flywheel fixing bolts (26) and start them in their threads.

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Tighten the bolts (26) to the specified torque, in the indicated sequence.

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Lubricate the surface (L) of the driven gear (21) with engine oil.
Install the driven gear in the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.
Notes
To facilitate installation, rotate the driven gear in the direction of the green arrow.
Hold the flywheel (17) with one hand and check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of thegreen arrow but not in the direction of the red arrow.
If either of these two is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been installed correctly.

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11.18 - Crankcase assembly: external components

1) Oil breather valve2) O-ring3) Seal4) Neutral switch
5) Cylinder barrel/head stud6) Nipple
7) By-pass spring8) Nipple
9) Plug10) Aluminium gasket11) Nut
12) Lock washer
13) Timing gear pair
14) Key15) Key16) Bolt
17) Bolt18) Washer
19) Starter idler gear20) Washer21) Gear shaft22) O-ring23) Engine sensor
24) Shim25) Bolt
26) Washer
27) Aluminium gasket28) Circlip
29) Bolt30) Washer
31) Starter idler gear32) Washer33) Gear shaft

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Removal of external components
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the lubrication system
Remove the oil filter cartridge
Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies
Unscrew the bolt (17) and remove the oil breather valve (1) with the O-rings (2). Check the condition of O-rings(2) and renew them if necessary.

Unscrew and remove the oil inlet and outlet nipples (8) from the right-hand crankcase half and recover theseals (27).

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Unscrew and remove the oil filter support nipple (6) and remove also by-pass spring (7).

Remove the mesh filter (A) with its seal from the right-hand crankcase half.

Remove the drain plug (10) with its seal (9).

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Remove the neutral switch (4) with seal (3).

Remove the cylinder head studs (5) with the aid of the appropriate tool.

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To remove the engine sensor (23), unscrew the bolt (25) and recover the shim (24) and the washer (26).
Check the condition of O-rings (22) and renew them if necessary.
If the engine sensor is to be renewed, it will be necessary to check the air gap as indicated in the paragraph“Checking the engine sensor air gap”.

Refitting the external components
Grease the engine sensor (23) in the part indicated.

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Fit the engine sensor (23) in its seat in the crankcase.

Position the 0.6 mm thick shim (24).

Insert the bolt (25) with the washer (26) and tighten to the specified torqueSez11-162

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Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine sensor (23) and the timing gear (13). The value
must be between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.
Notes
If the gap is incorrect, loosen the screw (25) of the engine sensor and replace the shim (24) with one of suitable
thickness paragraph “Checking the engine sensor air gap”.

Install the oil vapour breather valve (1) in the crankcase along with O-ring (2).
Tighten the bolt (17) to the specified torque.

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Tighten the two oil hose connection nipples (8) with the seals (27) to the specified torque.

Locate the by-pass spring (7) and screw on the nipple (6) that supports the oil filter cartridge, tightening to thespecified torque.

Tighten drain plug (10) and seal (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) applying thespecified threadlocker.

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Refit the neutral switch (4) with seal (3).

Refit the mesh filter (A) with seal as described in

Now fit the studs (5) on the crankcase halves, applying thread locker and tightening to the specified torquevalue. Use the appropriate commercial tool for this operation.

Refit the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies
Refit the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts
Refit the oil filter cartridge
Refit the lubrication system
Refit the engine to the frame

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Removal of the timing gears
Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly
Slide out driving gear (A) of timing gear pair (13) and remove the Woodruff key (14).

Relieve the staking on the lock washer (12) of the nut (11).
Restrain the driven timing gear by inserting a pin (C) in one of the holes, and unscrew the nut (11).
Remove the nut (11), washer (12), driven timing gear (B) and Woodruff key (15) from the timing belt driveshaft
shaft.

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Removal of the starter motor idler gear
Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly
Unscrew the bolt (29) and remove the idler gear (31) with the washers (30) and (32) and the shaft (33).

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For models with starter idler gear (19), remove the circlip (28) and the washer (18). Remove the gear (19) andthe washer (20). Unscrew the bolt (16) and remove the shaft (21).

It is now possible to remove the starter motor

Checking the engine sensor air gap
If either the alternator or the engine sensor has been renewed, the sensor air gap must be checked as
described below.
Remove the left-hand fairing
Remove the plug (B) from the inspection hole in the left-hand crankcase cover.

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Insert a feeler gauge (A) through the hole, positioning it between the end of sensor (23) and the teeth of timing
belt driveshaft gear.
Check that gap is 0.6 to 0.8 mm.
If not, slacken off the screw (25) securing the sensor (23) so as to extract the shim (24) and replace it with oneof suitable thickness.

Notes
There are three different shims available, and these can be identified by their colours, as shown in the figure.

Tighten the screw (25) to the specified torque.
Refit the plug (B) with its seal and tighten to the specified torque.
Refit the fairings

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11.19 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

1) Bearing
2) Bearing shell3) Crankcase half - front4) Bearing5) Circlip
6) Washer7) Bearing8) Oil seal
9) Bearing10) Retaining plate
11) Bolt
12) Bolt (M8x90)
13) Right-hand side crankcase half14) Oil seal
15) Bearing16) Circlip
17) Bearing shell18) Bearing
19) Bearing
20) Bolt21) Spacer
22) Bush23) Bearing
24) Bolt (M6x35)
25) Bolt (M8x75)
26) Bolt (M8x75, drilled)27) Bolt (M6x75)
28) Bolt (M8x90)
29) Circlip
30) Timing belt driveshaft31) O-ring32) O-ring33) Hose
34) Bolt

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Separation of the crankcase halves
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the lubrication system
Remove the cooling system
Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies
Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly
Remove the engine starting system
Remove the right-hand crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly
Remove the gauze pickup filter
Use two screwdrivers to remove the circlip (29) from the timing belt driveshaft shaft (30) on the right-handcrankcase half.
Notes
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the circlip.
Unscrew the crankcase bolts working from the chain side.

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Unscrew the two bolts (12) and (25) on the right-hand side near the vertical cylinder.

Re-use the left-hand crankcase cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749. Secure it to the crankcase halfusing some of the original bolts and begin separating the crankcase halves by turning the central pin of the tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox output shaft with a plastic mallet to separate the crankcase halves.
Notes
Take care not to lose the shims on the shafts and on the selector drum.

Remove the gearbox shafts and gear selector drum from the crankcase halves.
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Drive out the crankshaft (L) using a plastic mallet, taking care not to lose the shims.

Remove the timing belt driveshaft (30).

Remove the bolts (34), remove the hoses (33) and recover the O-rings (32).

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Overhaul of the crankcase halves
Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcases are perfectly flat using a reference surface.
Check that bearings (1) and (18) and bushes (2) and (17) are in perfect condition.
Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs

Notes
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase bearings.
After having renewed the gearbox shaft bearings (28) and (9), secure them in the crankcase with the spacers(21) and the retaining plate (10).

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At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil seal (8) on the outside of bearing (9).

Renew the bearings (7) and (23) on the ends of the gearbox shafts and timing belt driveshaft bearings (4) and(15).

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ENGINETake care not to lose the shim (6) interposed between the bearing (7) on the end of the gearbox input shaft andthe chain side crankcase half.

The oil seal (14) on the external side of the roller bearing (15) must be renewed at each engine overhaul.

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Check that the oilways are free of restrictions or clogging.
Check the condition of locating dowels (22). In the event of signs of distortion or excessive assembly clearancewith the corresponding seats, remove the locating dowels using appropriate tools.
If it proves difficult to remove the dowels (22) from the crankcase, use a tap with a left-hand thread to force
them out.
Important
The dowels (22) must always be renewed when they have been removed using the above procedure.

Remove the bearing (23), the circlip (5) and the roller bearing (4).

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Main bearings
The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads
from one groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. Angular contact thrustbearings are designed to withstand combined loads (radial and axial loads).
Bearings of this type can bear thrust loads in one direction only. In fact, under the action of a radial load inside
the bearing, an axial force is created that must be counterbalanced by an axial force acting in the opposite
direction; that is why these bearings are generally fitted back to back in pairs.
To renew the bearings proceed as follows:- heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 °C;- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;- install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a tubular
drift that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;- allow the parts to cool and check that the bearing is securely seated in the crankcase.

Important
On worn engines, the bearing holder may no longer be a tight fit in the crankcase half.
After having removed the bearing holder, check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the holder
with the bearing installed is no less than 0.03 mm, otherwise the crankcase halves must be renewed.
Notes
For shimming the main bearings, see the chapter at the end of this section.

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Shimming the shafts
Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the
crankshaft and gearbox shafts.
To determine the correct shim thicknesses proceed as follows.

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Shimming the crankshaft
After fitting the new main bearings, proceed as follows to determine the total shim thickness “SA”:
measure the distance “LA” between the bearing contact surfaces on the crankshaft;measure the depths “LA1” and “LA2” corresponding to the distance between contact surface of the crankcase
half and the contact surface of the inner race of the bearings.

Add a pre-load of 0.30 mm to prevent excessive crankshaft end float when the crankcase halves are at theirnormal operating temperature.
This gives: SA=LA1+LA2+0.30-LA.
To calculate the each single shim thickness note that: SA=SA1+SA2
where “SA1” and “SA2” represent the shims for the right-hand crankcase half 1 and the left-hand crankcase
half 2.
Considering the alignment of the shaft, this gives: SA1=LA1+0.15-LA/2;
and finally, the second shim thickness: SA2=SA-SA1.

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ENGINEIn addition to the above description, the following text illustrates a practical shimming procedure, providing a
guide on how to calculate the crankshaft shim thicknesses accurately.
Install a shim of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the
crankshaft web and the engine block.
Install the crankshaft and assemble the two crankcase halves.
Fit four M8 screws into the holes shown in the figure and tighten to the specified torque.

Place a dial gauge (A) with a magnetic base on a support plate fixed to the crankcase.
Bring the stylus into contact with the end of the crankshaft and set the dial gauge to zero in this position.

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Insert a lever (B) between the crankcase and the crank web and force the crankshaft towards the dial gauge.
Note the dial gauge reading. This is the crankshaft endfloat. Add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness ofthe shims used (1.90x2=3.8 mm).
Divide the resulting value by two to obtain the thickness of the shim packs to be installed at either end of the
crankshaft.
Notes
After assembling the crankcase, the crankshaft should turn with some interference in the new bearings.

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ENGINE
Shimming the gearbox shafts

To establish the total shim thicknesses to be installed on the input shaft “SP” and the output shaft “SS”, proceed
as follows:
Measure the dimensions “LP” and “LS” on the input and output shafts (for the output shaft add shim thickness“R” of 2.3 mm;
Measure the depth corresponding to the distance between the contact surface of the crankcase half and thecontact surface of the inner race of the bearing for the input shaft (“CP1” and “CP2”) and for the output shaft(“CS1” and “CS2”);
Given that end float should be in the range 0 to 0.15 mm, we will take the optimal value of 0.15 mm, which
gives: SP=CP1+CP2-LP-0.15 and SS=CS1+CS2-LS-0.15.
To determine the thickness of each single shim pack, note that:
SP=SP1+SP2 and
SS=SS1+SS2
Where “SP1” and “SP2” are the clutch and chain side input shaft shimming values respectively and “SS1” and“SS2” the corresponding values for the output shaft. This gives:
SP1=CP1-64-0.075 andSS1=CS1-64-0.075, so that
SP2=SP-SP1 and SS2=SS-SS1.
Notes
The method described for the crankshaft can also be used to calculate the shim thicknesses for the gear
shafts.

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Shimming the gearbox selector drum
A similar procedure is used to establish the total shimming thickness “ST” for the gearbox drum.
Given that:
LT1 = right-hand side crankcase depth
LT2 = left-hand side crankcase depth
LT = gearbox selector drum shoulder.
Given that end float should be 0 10 to 0.40 mm.
And taking the mean optimal value of 0.25 mm.
This gives: ST=LT1+LT2-LT-0.25.
Given that ST=ST1+ST2.
We obtain ST1=LT1-59-0.125, so that ST2=ST-ST1.
Notes
The method described for the crankshaft can also be used to calculate the shim thicknesses for the gear
shafts.

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11.20 - Crankcase assembly: connecting rods

1) Special screw
2) Connecting rod assembly
3) Half bearing
4) Grub screw
5) Key6) Crankshaft7) Grub screw
8) Shim
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Removal of the connecting rods assembly
Remove the engine from the frame
Remove the lubrication system
Remove the cooling system
Remove the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies
Remove the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly
Remove the engine starting system
Remove the right-hand crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly
Remove the clutch assembly
After separating the crankcase halves, withdraw the crankshaft (7) complete with connecting rods (2).

Disassembly of the connecting rods
To disassemble the connecting rod, undo the bolts (1) and separate the connecting rod from the crankshaft.
Important
Take care not to mix up components of different connecting rods and maintain the original orientation.

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Overhaul of the connecting rods
Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:- clearance with gudgeon pin on assembly.
In the event of excessive wear, renew the connecting rod.
The small end bushing must be in good condition and firmly driven into its seat.
Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
the value must be H - h less than 0.02 mm; otherwise, renew the connecting rod.

The connecting rod is supplied in two size classes A and B relative to the big end diameter as punch marked on
the side of the cap.
It is preferable to use crankshaft and connecting rods of the same size class..

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Renewal of the small end bushing
To remove the worn bushing, use a suitable drift and a press.
Drill lubrication holes into the new bushing in correspondence with the existing lubrication holes on theconnecting rod small end.
Now ream out the bushing until the inside diameter (D) is 20.035 to 20.045 mm.

Connecting rod bearings
It is good practice to renew the bearings (3) each time the engine is overhauled.
Replacement bearings are supplied ready for assembly and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery
cloth.
The bearings may belong to two different size classes, each identified by a specific colour (YELLOW andBLUE).
The bearings are composed of an external steel ring, the inner face of which is electro-plated with a lead-based
compound.
The table shows the appropriate bearings to be fitted according to the size class of the crankshaft andconnecting rod.

Crankshaft class

Connecting rod class

Bearings colour

B

B

BLUE/YELLOWB

A

YELLOW/YELLOW

A

B

BLUE/BLUEA

A

BLUE/YELLOW

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Crankshaft
The main bearing and big-end journals should not be scored or grooved;
the threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 2 mm.

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With the aid of a micrometer, measure the ovality and taper of the big-end journals, taking the measurements invarious different directions.
Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by setting the crankshaft between two
opposing centres.
At each overhaul it is strongly recommended to clean the crankshaft’s internal oilways.
The prescribed values are given.
The crankshaft is supplied in two size classes (journals) A and B, as punch marked on the side of the crank
web on the pinion side.

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Unscrew all the plugs (4) and (7) from the crankshaft, heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to release thethreadlocker applied at the time of assembly.
Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any
residues that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.
Apply THREE BOND 1375B liquid gasket to the plug threads (4) and (7) and reinstall them.
Tighten all the plugs to the specified torque.

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Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance
To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft journals you will lay a strip (A) of
GREEN “Plastigage PG-1” on the journal. Fit the connecting rod with the original bearings and tighten thescrews to a torque of 50 Nm.
Remove the connecting rod and compare the width of the Plastigage strip to the scale (B).
If the width measured corresponding to the existing clearance is not within the prescribed limit, either the
bearings or the crankshaft must be renewed.

Reassembly of the connecting rods
Before starting the work, check that the crankshaft main bearing journals and big-end journals are free of burrs
or evident signs of machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.

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Check that each connecting rod (2) and cap are fitted with their locating pins (D).
Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air.
Clean and lubricate the journals and con-rod bearing shells (3) with engine oil and fit the connecting rods intheir original mounting positions.
Use the recommended grease to lubricate the threads and underside of the heads of the new bolts (1) and thethreaded hole in the connecting rod, packing in grease from both sides of the hole.
Warning
The grease utilised is an irritant in contact with the skin. Wear protective gloves.
Important
Lubrication of connecting rod cap bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage ofthe parts.
Use the same connecting rod cap bolts a maximum of three times.
Tighten the bolts (1) by hand.
If this proves difficult or in the case of jamming, undo the bolts and lubricate them again.
Remove excess grease. Tighten the bolt by hand until the head seats against the connecting rod.

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Fit the spacer of the tool 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial play with the fork
feeler gauge of the tool 88713.2878 which is available in the following thicknesses:
0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.
Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin to align the connecting rods, and then tighten the bolts.

Tighten the bolts (1) with a torque wrench and angle reading (degree wheel) in accordance with the proceduredescribed below (observe the same tightening sequence at each step as that of the previous step):1) first torque each bolt to a value of 20 Nm;
2) now carry out a second tightening stage applying a torque of 35 Nm on each bolt;3) now tighten each bolt, reading the angle of rotation, to 85 Nm, checking that the final angle is between 55°
and 90°.
Important
If the final angle is less than 55° or greater than 90°, repeat the procedure using two new bolts.

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Refitting the connecting rods.
Install the connecting rod assembly (7) and (2) in the crankcase, carry out the shimming and crankcase
reassembly procedure as described in Sect. N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase halves.
Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (2) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect
positioning of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.

Refit the clutch assembly
Refit the right-hand crankcase cover
Refit the engine starter system
Refit the left-hand crankcase cover and alternator assembly
Refit the cylinder barrel/piston assemblies
Refit the cylinder head assemblies and the timing parts
Refit the cooling system
Refit the lubrication system
Install the engine in the frame

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