FULL CIRCLEINSTALLATION GUIDE

www.fishman.com

Read Me First!

Setup

Installation of this product is a simple procedure,
but we recommend this job only if you are anexperienced repair technician.

Once the wheels are mounted and the bass is tuned
up, thread the white wire through one of the wingholes in the bridge and hold it in place with one of
the neoprene plugs from the kit (figure 2).

Requirements
The Full Circle is available in either ¼-20 or 6mm
thread format. Before you install the pickup,
confirm that the threads in the bridge will match
those on the Full Circle.

GapInstallation
Observe the following
precautions!

Figure 2• Before you install the Full Circle, confirm
that the wheels you are about to replace are
lined up well in the legs. The wheels mustbe parallel and the posts perpendicular tothe cuts in the legs or the Full Circle may
become mechanically unstable on theinstrument (figure 1).

Fasten the output jack behind the bridge andbetween two adjacent pairs of strings. Then fasten
the RCA plug into the back of the output jack.
Mind the gap!
For good pickup performance, leave a slight gap
between the threaded side of the wheel and thewood. If you close the gap, the amplified sound will
become choked and muted (figure 2).

Hot Side

Height adjustment
Remove the RCA plug from the back of the output
jack so the white wire does not wrap around theleg as you turn the wheel. Turn both wheels equalamounts for good contact with the pickup. To prolong the life of the pickup, do not pinch the whitewire where it joins the wheel.
Tonal adjustments (figure 3)

GoodBadTurn the wheel so the wire is perpendicular to theleg and the pickup will have an open, resonantresponse.

Figure 1• Fishman Transducers will not be responsiblefor damages to the pickup or the instrument
due to improperly installed wheels!

Turn the wheel 45 degrees so the wire faces one of
the corners and the tone will be somewhat drier andmore focused, with less output.

Retro-fit the Full Circle to a bridge withinstalled wheels

Fit the Full Circle to a bridge without
wheelsThe pickup is “hot” on the flat face of the wheel:on the side with the non-threaded post. For good
performance it is crucial that the hot side of thepickup lies absolutely flat with no gaps or voids
where it contacts the bridge. If necessary, sand thewood flat where it contacts the wheel before you
install bridge on the bass (figure 1).

For maximum reliability and performance, thewheels should be centered precisely within thetaper of the bridge.
Fit the bridge to the bass before you install thewheels. Note that the wheel with the white wire
belongs under the E string.

When you install the pickup, remove the RCA plugfrom the back side of the output jack. Replace theplug after the pickup is in place.

There is a subtle tonal difference between “threadsup” and “threads down” position for the pickup.
1

When you mount the Full Circle “threads up,” thehot side of the pickup faces the body of the bass.
You’ll get a bit more woody acoustic tone this way,with a rounded attack and less “edge” (figure 4).
Lay out the bridge (figure 5)
The pickup will work best when the wheel is precisely
centered in the leg. To do this, carefully lay out theappropriate lines ahead of time. You will be drawing
lines on the side of the bridge that faces thefingerboard.
1. Use the line implied by the outside of each leg tomake parallel vertical lines down to each foot (line A).
Option 1: threads down into the feet:
Make a mark on each leg no less than 1 ¼”
(31.75mm) from the bottom of line A.

Open, resonant response.

Line up a straight edge on the marks and pencil in ahorizontal line on each leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, make aparallel set of lines (line C) 3⁄8” (9.5mm) below line B.
Option 2: threads up into the legs
Make a mark on each leg no less than 21⁄32”(16.66mm) from the bottom of line A. Use a straightedge on the marks and pencil in a horizontal line oneach leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, makea parallel set of lines (line C) 3⁄8” (9.5mm) aboveline B.
2. Find the center of line B on the face of each leg.
From these points make perpendicular lines down
to the foot (D). Continue across the bottom of thefoot (E).

Drier, more focused response.

3. Turn the bridge sideways and make a vertical line,
centered through the taper of the bridge (line F). Go
back to line B and continue it across the thickness ofthe bridge, perpendicular to line F (both legs).

Figure 3
When you mount the Full Circle “threads down,” thehot side of the pickup faces the strings. This translates to more defined articulation and attack, with aslight emphasis on the “string” sound (figure 4).

4. Finally, center a line (G) across the bottom lengthof each foot.
Drill the legs and cut off the feetPrecision is crucial here. Use a drill press and a band
saw or table saw for these procedures.
Make a jig that will allow you to clamp the bridge
and align your layout marks for the drill. Two piecesof ¾” Plywood or MDF fastened at 90° will do thejob. You will use a countersink, a #9 (5mm) drill bit
and the appropriate tap for this procedure (¼-20 or6mm). To simplify the job, we recommend that you
use a so-called “extension” tap with a long reduced
diameter shank.

Threads Down

Your drill jig should hold the bridge firmly. Lineup the bridge (and shim if necessary) so that lines
D and F are centered with and parallel to the drill
bit. Double sided carpet tape makes an excellent
temporary clamp for the bridge while you drill.

Threads Up

Figure 42

If you have an “extension tap,” use it now to tap thethreads to a depth of 1” (25.4mm) into the feet. If
you don’t have an extension tap, wait until you cut
off the feet to tap out the threads. In these cases,
start the tap from the top of the foot.
Before you cut off the feet, line up the “B” lines on
the legs so they are parallel to the saw blade. Placethe side of the bridge that faces the tailpiece down
towards the table. Line F must be perpendicular tothe blade or the wheels will not align properly. If
necessary, shim up the bridge to make line B parallel
and line F perpendicular to the saw blade. Double
sided carpet tape makes an excellent temporary
clamp while you cut.
After you cut off the feet, enlarge the holes in thelegs to ¼” (6.4mm) diameter.

3/8”(9.5 mm)

BNo Less Than
1 ¼” (31.75 mm)

Line FLine BLine CLine ACLine DDAThreads into FeetLine C3/8”(9.5 mm )No Less Than
21/32” (16.66 mm)

Option 2: threads up (into legs)
Start a hole in one foot with a single flute countersink. Then use a #9 (5mm) tap drill to plunge thehole in one leg to a depth of at least 2” (50.8mm).
With the bridge still held in position from the firsthole, enlarge it to ¼” (6.4mm) diameter, to a depthof 1” (25.4mm). Repeat this entire procedure for theother leg.
Tap the appropriate threads into the legs. If you havean “extension tap,” you will be able to thread all theway into the bottom of the hole. If you don’t have an“extension tap,” the threads won’t reach completely
into the legs. This is not a problem; you can go backand finish tapping the threads after you cut off thefeet. But try to at least get the tap started into theupper part of the legs. This will ensure good threadalignment when you finish tapping after the feet are
cut off.
Before you cut off the feet, line up the “B” lines on
the legs so they are parallel to the saw blade. Placethe side of the bridge that faces the tailpiece down
towards the table. Line F must be perpendicular tothe blade or the wheels will not align properly. Ifnecessary, shim up the bridge. Double sided carpet
tape makes an excellent temporary clamp while you cut.

CLine BLine DDLine FA

Line AThreads into LegsDB

Fit the wheels
Once you have cut off the feet, fit the wheels withthe bridge off of the bass. The hot side of the pickup
should lay absolutely flat against the bridge, with nogaps or voids. If necessary, sand the wood flat at thecontact point and/or increase the depth/diameter ofhole before installing the bridge on the bass (figure 1).

GELine DLine E

Line G

Figure 5

Option 1: threads down (into feet)
Start each hole with a single flute countersink. Drill
the holes for the posts with a #9 (5mm) tap drill. Drill
to a depth of no less than 1 ¾” (44.45mm).

Setup
Once the wheels are mounted and the bass is tuned
up, thread the white wire through one of the wingholes in the bridge and hold it in place with one of
the neoprene plugs from the kit (figure 2).
Fasten the output jack behind the bridge andbetween two adjacent pairs of strings. Then fasten
the RCA plug into the back of the output jack.

www.fishman.com

514-300-111 Rev A 5-09