In theZONE

While still sparkling with the same starry glamour it’salways had, California’s Santa Barbara has a fresh buzz,
thanks to the emergence of the Funk Zone – an artsyneighbourhood hub drawing in creatives of all stripes

Words by AMIRA HASHISH

S

anta Barbara’s reputation precedes it.
Mention that you’re going and you’ll
get glowing reviews from anyone who’sbeen. After all, with its endless sunshine,
sandy beaches and world-class wineries,
what’s not to love? But California’s oldcharmer has a new edge, fuelled, inrecent years, by the creative set that hasgrouped in the Funk Zone, a once
run-down district that spans the space
between the ocean and Highway 101.
Just across the way from the Amtrak
station stop that forms part ofa picturesque rail route hugging theSouthern California coastline, thisgateway to the “American Riviera”
has become a hub of culture, food anddrink. Its previous guise as an industrial,
marine and manufacturing district wasinterrupted in the 1990s by artists looking
to move their studios to more affordable
plots in the city, breathing new life into
the abandoned warehouses that nowserve as must-visit galleries and shops.
A r t i s t L i n d s e y Ro s s , a k a T h e
Alchemistress, was an early adopter.
The photographer, who works with theprocess of wet-plate collodion and set up
her studio in a corrugated-metal barn,says the area is at the core of her practiceand her favourite place in the world. ••124

SUITCASE MAGAZINEFUNK ZONE, SANTA BARBARA // Photo by BLAKE BRONSTAD

Craft

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SANTA BARBARA, USA“I wanted to have a place where every
walk of life could see art without
being judged on if they could afford
it. I want to inspire others”

FUNK ZONE, SANTA BARBARA // Photos by NATASHA LEE“When I first moved here, my studio was
kind of a home base to my group of friends,
who were also my art community,”
she says. “As the neighbourhood has
grown, we have grown as artists andentrepreneurs. For example, Catherine
Gee, a designer of elegant clothing,has a worldwide presence in over
100 boutiques. It started here.”
Ross cites acclaimed winemakers Dave
Potter of Municipal Winemakers andPotek Winery, Matt Brady of SAMsARA
Wine Co, and Drake Whitcraft ofWhitcraft Winery: “We’ve known
each other since the beginning of ourcareers. There are so many examples ofpeople who have become well-respectedleaders in their field. R Nelson Parrish isa sculptor whose work is on display inmany museums and private collections.
I knew Scott Linde when he wasdeveloping his superfood company,
Sun Potion. Now, it’s sold worldwide.”
Then there’s Loveworn – a shop andgallery run by stylist and seamstress Jill
Johnson and pop artist Wallace Platt126– which offers one of the largest selectionsof vintage denim in the US, as well as
couture creations. You can’t miss it:a graffiti-fronted rock ’n’ roll warehousethat also houses Platt’s Rodeo Gallery.
“Wallace and I opened our first
store in Santa Barbara in 1991. It wasa creative hub for almost two decades,
so we have a positive history here. Aftera hiatus, I recognised the start of a revolt
against fast fashion – people were craving
something ‘real’ again,” Johnson says.
The duo make most of the inventory
on the premises, using techniques suchas cut-and-sew, heat-press, patching andstudding. They also have a nearby art
studio, where they do all the messy stuff,
silkscreening and stencilling outside,
and letting things dry in the sun.
Platt describes his Rodeo Gallery as
a dream project. “I wanted to have a place
where every walk of life could see art
without being judged on if they could
afford it,” he says. “So many galleries havethis boring, snobbish ‘you can’t afford

this art, so what are you doing here?’thing. I want to inspire others and offer
a cultural experience, too.”With the art scene booming, it made sense
for the region’s wine and produce to findits groove here, too. Sherry Villanueva
is behind the Funk Zone’s most covetedfood and drink offerings, including
The Lark restaurant, Pearl Social cocktail
bar and artisanal Helena Avenue Bakery.
Villanueva’s mission is to connect visitorswith outstanding regional producers andmakers. “We spend time at the farmers’market, on fishing boats or in the fields,
so that we can see and experience thepassion of their craft and hand-selectwhat will work best in our restaurants.”
The walkable 13-block area that makes
up the Funk Zone has become theepicentre of Santa Barbara’s culture andhospitality. Use it as a base for exploringseaside Summerland, glitzy Montecito or
the Spanish-style Presidio. It’s a magicalmicrocosm that’s making waves, andhaving a lot of fun along the way.
••MURAL IN THE FUNK ZONE // Photo by MAX WHITTAKER, courtesy of Visit California/Visit Santa Barbara

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SANTA BARBARA, USAA Guide toSanta Barbara
STAYEATBELMOND EL ENCANTOLA PALOMA CAFÉLOQUITAHELENA AVENUE BAKERY

800 ALVARADO PL, 93103

702 ANACAPA ST, 93101

202 STATE ST, 93101

131 ANACAPA ST, 93101

belmond.com/elencantolapalomacafesb.com

loquitasb.com

helenaavenuebakery.com

Santa Barbara’s grande dame for morethan a century, El Encanto oozes timelessglamour. Couples, wine lovers, wellnessseekers, families, foodies and Hollywood’s
elite flock here to soak up the best
Pacific views on the American Riviera.
The luxurious bungalows and suites areset in three hectares of lush gardens.
Styles of early Santa Barbara architectureand nostalgic settings remain throughout,such as the trellis-lined Arbor & Lily
Pond. Sip a cocktail here, before taking
the plunge in the zero-edge pool. There’s
a spa with ocean-inspired treatments,
while the coastal cuisine is exquisitely
paired with an extensive wine selection.

This pretty patio restaurant celebrates
the fusion cuisine of the Californios– early Californian settlers – using
high-quality, indigenous ingredients inthoughtfully crafted barbecue dishes.

A love letter to the city’s Spanish origins,the menu here was created with input
from celebrated chef Perfecto Roche.
Expect tapas, wood-fired grilled seafood
and meats and superb seasonal paella.

Come here for custom-baked sweet andsavoury goods en route to Santa Barbara’s
Urban Wine Trail. Expansive windows
provide a glimpse of the kitchen brigade
as they whip up breads and pastries.

GOAT TREEBETTINA

THE LARK

36 STATE ST, 93101

1014 COAST VILLAGE RD, 93108

131 ANACAPA ST, 93101

hotelcalifornian.com

bettinapizzeria.com

thelarksb.com

Pop in for a coffee or a Moroccan-inspired
dish in this café by Martyn Lawrence
Bullard, who also worked his magic on theHotel Californian, in which it’s housed.

Husband-and-wife team Brendan Smithand Rachel Greenspan serve the best
Neapolitan-style pizzas and naturally
leavened breads in Montecito.

The bounty of Santa Barbara County
wineries, farms and the ocean meet
here, in an old fish market building, withtalented chef Jason Paluska at the helm.

MAR MONTE HOTEL
1111 E CABRILLO BLVD, 93103

marmontehotel.com
Set on the site of the 1930s Vista MarMonte, this lifestyle hotel is just stepsfrom the beach. The final phase wascompleted in 2021, with LA-based design
firm Beleco overseeing the interiors.
Exposed beam ceilings and arches arecoupled with chandeliers, terracotta anda vast ceramic tile art installation behind
the reception desk, bringing Spanishstyle elements into the space. Vibrant new
restaurant Costa serves delicious dishes,
while Café Lido is the place for breakfast
or a poolside lunch. Take one of the hotel
bikes along the oceanfront promenadeand you’ll be in the Funk Zone in minutes.
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BELMOND EL ENCANTOLOQUITA // Photo by BLAKE BRONSTAD, courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara

129••SANTA BARBARA, USASANTA BARBARA, USASANTA BARBARA COUNTY COURTHOUSE
Photo by BLAKE BRONSTAD, courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara

PEARL SOCIAL // Photo by ROB STARK, courtesy of Visit Santa Barbara

DRINKSHOPDOSANTA BARBARA WINE COLLECTIVETHE BLUE DOORSTEARNS WHARF

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

131 ANACAPA ST, 93101

4 E YANONALI ST, 93101

COURTHOUSE

santabarbarawinecollective.com

thebluedoorsb.com

stearnswharf.org
celebrationsantabarbara.com

This is the first communal wine-tasting
location where visitors can sample
bottles from some of the county’s best
family-run producers all on one site.

Come to browse three jam-packed floorsof great-quality vintage from 14 private
collectors, arranged alongside handmade
goods that are all sourced locally.

PEARL SOCIAL

FIELD + FORT

131 ANACAPA ST, 93101

2580 LILLIE AVE, 93067

The West Coast’s oldest working wooden
wharf offers a dazzling view of thecoastline and the Santa Ynez Mountains.
Find it next to the Santa Barbara Harbour,which is a great launch pad for a sea
excursion. On that front, Celebration
Cruises has you covered.

pearlsocialsb.com

fieldandfort.com

Beautifully presented cocktails, fresh
oysters and live music make this a great
spot to start or finish your night.

Find essentials for elevated living in thishomeware store and café, then explore
Summerland’s many interiors shops.

santabarbara.bcycle.com
wheelfunrentals.com

THE VALLEY PROJECTGARDE

116 E YANONALI ST, 93101

2280 LILLIE AVE, 93067

thevalleyprojectwines.com

gardeshop.com

This urban winery owned by Magan
Kunin is home to a striking chalkboard
map of Santa Barbara County AVAs
(American Viticultural Areas). Kunin also
has a new tasting room in Presidio, and is
set to open another at her Goleta winery.

Talented artists and designers from allaround the world come together in thisrevamped 1920s farmhouse that has itsvery own chicken coop. Founded in 2012by Scotti Sitz and partner John Davidson,the concept store is a local institution.

If your hotel doesn’t offer bicycles, use
one of the many BCycle stations locatedthroughout town, pick up a bike or
Segway at one of the rental shops offlower State Street, near the waterfront,
or have bikes delivered to your hotel via
Wheel Fun Rentals. Cruise along the 5km
Cabrillo Boulevard Bike Path in either
direction, passing beaches, Skater’s Point,Stearns Wharf and the harbour.

While many consider the Old Mission
Santa Barbara (aka the “Queen of theMissions”) one of the region’s major
landmarks, the Santa Barbara County
Courthouse is a close tie. Designed ina Spanish-Moorish style and completedin 1929, the still-functioning courthouse
was built to resemble a castle. Itsdistinctive clock tower, sweeping redroof, elegant arches and sunken garden
make it a popular photo spot – as well
as a glorious wedding venue, beloved
by locals. Inside, you can get a visual
history lesson in the Mural Room,marvel at wrought-iron chandeliers
and hand-painted tiles and soak up
a panoramic view of the city.

BEACHSIDE RIDE

130

GARDE

sbcourthouse.org

THE LOWDOWN
Discover more of Santa Barbara
at SUITCASEmag.com
or visit santabarbaraca.com
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