Press Release
Patek Philippe Nautilus
October 2006
The Nautilus, Patek Philippe’s paragon of casual elegance, celebrates its 30th
anniversary with an expanded and innovative re-introduction.
When Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus thirty years ago, the unusual concept of thewatch and its striking statement of casual elegance instantly developed a cult following.
Now, the prestigious Geneva workshops are presenting a new and subtly redesigned
Nautilus collection with fresh appeal for the next thirty years and beyond. It also
introduces a Nautilus flyback chronograph endowed with a self-winding movement
crafted entirely in-house.
A little revolution took place in Geneva in 1976: the launch of a luxury watch in a steel case.
The world of horology was perplexed and skeptical because time still advanced at the
comfortable pace of the 20th century: Luxury timepieces are made of gold—or better yet with
precious-metal bracelets— and, sometimes taking things a step further, with diamond hourmarkers and diamond-set bezels. At the same time, manufactures were competing against
each other to develop thinner and thinner wristwatches. And suddenly, this oversized watch instainless steel emerges; it is not only more expensive than many gold watches in those days, italso violates all conventions with its prominent size and extravagant shape. Most surprisingly, itis the respected and eminent Patek Philippe workshops that dared commit this foul in the luxury
category. But as Patek Philippe’s president Philippe Stern admits today, this disregard of ataboo was a calculated move. An ongoing paradigm shift had been observed. Many wealthy
individuals were very active, not only in their professional lives but in their leisure activities aswell. They were at the helm of sailing yachts, raced down icy runs, and went running in Central
Park at dawn to stay in shape. This new generation loved challenge and pursued dynamic
lifestyles. A precious, scratch-prone 1970s gold dress watch, with its delicate movement, did
not suit their everyday lives. Such timepieces were de rigueur at elegant evening events but
were not what busy managers and entrepreneurs wanted to wear at the office, on the tennis
court, or during a weekend golf game. Patek Philippe anticipated this trend well in advance andresponded to it in 1976 by launching the Nautilus Ref. 3700 – a totally new type of watch. Whileit was designed to appeal to a new customer segment, it was also intended to convince current
Patek Philippe owners to complement their precious gold one with a ruggedly strong‖alternative in a steel case. Both objectives were attained by a wide margin and an advertising
campaign helped convert the iconoclastic style of the Nautilus into a principle. ―One of theworld’s most expensive watches is made of steel,‖ proclaimed one ad which received extensive
exposure. The headline ―It goes with a wet suit as well as with a tuxedo‖ also attracted attention
and drove the point home.
New shape, new concept
Indeed, the Nautilus was provocative. Not only was a stainless steel watch being hailed as theembodiment of luxury, the Nautilus broke all established rules with the design and construction

Page 2of its distinctive case. The shape of the bezel was intriguing: neither round nor rectangular, it
was an octagon with gently rounded corners. And then the hinges to the left and right … somecalled them ears. Not to mention the size, which in 1976 far transcended what was considered
contemporary and aesthetic: the Nautilus was 42 mm wide (including hinges) and 7.6 mm high.
But a plan was behind all this and a functional rationale existed for each design feature. The
case did not consist of a back, a caseband, and a bezel as is still common today. Instead, it
was a monocoque – milled from a block of solid steel – with a single bore for the winding stem.
The bezel with the crystal was firmly screwed to the case at four points. People who remember
construction details of old cruise ships will notice the resemblance of the case with the classic
porthole whose round window was also pressed to the frame with a hinge and tension bolts.
The result: the Nautilus was water-resistant to 120 meters, a sensation for a regular-production
casual watch by 1976 standards. This gave owners the reassurance that the Nautilus would bea loyal companion even under the most arduous circumstances.
From the enfant terrible to the cult object
The response to the Nautilus varied widely, ranging from ―shocking‖ to ―fantastic.‖ Thus, it was
clear from the very beginning that the Nautilus was not a watch for everyone. It had its own
following. And during the 1980s, this community of aficionados grew significantly. The size of
the watch, initially criticized, turned into a unique selling proposition. The original 1976 Nautilus
was affectionately nicknamed ―Jumbo‖ and in the course of time, it appealed to more and more
women, prompting the workshops to launch the Ref. 4700 in 1980. In 1981, the 37.5-mm wide
Ref. 3800 was developed for narrower wrists. After production of the large Nautilus was
discontinued in 1990, it remained Patek Philippe’s only casual watch for many years. The
collection featured models in steel, steel/gold, and gold, and some were also crafted inplatinum. But the Nautilus always retained its inimitable form with the lateral case extension
ridges that were readily identifiable even from afar. In 1998, Patek Philippe again presented a
Nautilus in the original format, this time endowed with a proprietary complication: the WZI
winding zone indicator. 2005 saw the launch of the first Nautilus with three complications: theRef. 3712/1A with power-reserve indicator, moon phase, and analog date. The waiting lists kept
by Authorized Patek Philippe Retailers grew and grew, and after a while, the first Nautilus
watches appeared in the catalogs of prestigious auction houses, sometimes fetching more thanthe cost of a new model. The enfant terrible had turned into a cult object and, once again, Patek
Philippe demonstrated a deep commitment to tradition combined with a penchant for
innovations in technology and design.
Different but familiar: the new Nautilus
Thirty years is not a venerable age for a Patek Philippe collection. The Calatrava line, forexample, is 70 years old, and the Golden Ellipse will soon celebrate its 40th anniversary. So it
is not surprising that 2006 marks a new chapter in the history of the Nautilus. The entire
collection was redesigned to commemorate the occasion, and for five of the six new models,the construction of the case was changed as well.
These new Nautilus watches now have three-part cases, which do not compromise theirlegendary ruggedness. Advanced manufacturing processes and new material technologies
have made it possible to design classic cases with backs, casebands and bezels that equal thePage 3

original monocoque construction in robustness and water resistance. Also, the portholemechanism used to seal the bezel as well as the characteristic lateral ridges remainunchanged. But the originally straight hinges are now gently rounded, formally reflecting thelateral curvature of the bezel. This detail enhances the elegance of the new Nautilus case.
The design of the new medium-sized Nautilus has been similarly refined, but it preserves theclassic two-part monocoque-and-bezel construction, paying tribute to the 1976 original.
All watches of the new Nautilus collection have a sapphire-crystal caseback that reveals thePatek Philippe movement with the coveted Geneva Seal.
A fresh accent: rose gold
So far, Nautilus models have been available in stainless steel and in yellow or white gold aswell as in rare platinum versions. Now, one of the new large-format Nautilus watches comeswith a captivating rose-gold case, creating a beautiful contrast of warmth and functional
elegance. To underscore the aesthetic appeal of the material combinations, the dials were also
reworked to match the cases. Stainless steel models, like before, have blue-black dials, while
the rose-gold version has a warmer brown-charcoal dial. Both of these dials have a technicalflourish: They are lacquered to produce a light-to-dark gradation from the center to theperiphery, a characteristic feature of the Nautilus. The white-gold model (Ref. 5712) features acharcoal dial. The typical horizontal embossing pattern has been retained, but the hands havebeen enlarged. The applied luminous hour markers are also slightly larger with the contours
progressively matched to the shape of the bezel. With these subtle modifications, the faces of
the redesigned Nautilus watches look familiar yet are refreshingly new.
Steel bracelets and leather straps: details that count
The first Nautilus models were worn on metal bracelets that were remarkably supple despite
their strong and massive links. The proportion of the bracelets has been further refined andharmonized with the new case sizes. Each bracelet visually prolongs the case contours, andthe links gradually narrow to meet in a fold-over clasp that is both secure and comfortable on
the wrist. The finish was reworked as well to further enhance the supple look and feel. Like theoriginal, the outer links are satin-finished, while the middle ones are mirror-polished.
The large models in white and rose gold are worn on large-scale alligator straps – safari blackwith white gold and brown with rose gold. The matching gold fold-over clasp has a new threepart design with a threaded length adjustment feature.
A new flagship model: the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 A
With its width of 43 mm, the new Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 A is one millimeter larger than its 1976predecessor. This is not a reflection of the general trend toward more dominant watches; rather,
the slight increase is due to the rounder contours of the lateral hinge ridges. The new three-partcase has a screwed back with a sapphire-crystal window and a screw-down crown. It is waterresistant to a depth of 120 meters. Its self-winding heart, powered by an extra-heavy 21K gold
central rotor, is the Patek Philippe caliber 315 SC movement, acclaimed by collectors andPage 4

connoisseurs alike. It displays the hours, minutes, sweep seconds, and the date in an aperture
at 3 o'clock.
The new Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 A comes in a stainless steel case worn on an integrated stainlesssteel bracelet with satin-finished outer links and polished middle links.
For smaller wrists: the Nautilus Ref. 5800/1 A
Measuring 38.4 mm across the hinges, the new Nautilus Ref. 5800/1 A is perceptibly smaller,
but it too has gained nearly one millimeter in comparison with its predecessor, the 3800/1 A(37.5 mm). It is the ideal model for men with smaller wrists and will no doubt appeal to women
who enjoy wearing a larger watch. The Ref. 5800/1 is the only new Nautilus that still has a twopart case; however, it also features a sapphire-crystal caseback. Because this case design
requires that the movement be fitted from the dial side, the winding stem is split. The
mechanical Patek Philippe caliber 330 SC movement provides the classic functions: hours,
minutes, sweep seconds, and a date in the aperture at 3 o'clock.
The new medium-format Nautilus is available in a stainless steel case and integrated stainlesssteel bracelet with a fold-over clasp. The outer bracelet links are satin-finished, while the middle
links are polished.
Getting complicated: the Nautilus Ref. 5712
This new Nautilus also has a prominent predecessor that achieved cult status virtuallyovernight. Apart from displaying the hours and minutes, it has a subsidiary seconds dial at 4
o’clock, a power-reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o'clock, and an analog date at 7 o’clockwith an integrated moon-phase display. For a sporty watch, this is an exceptional number ofcomplications, and the eye-catching layout adds a touch of exclusivity to the Ref. 5712/1. It has
a three-part case with a sapphire-crystal caseback, a screw-down crown, and a moon-phasecorrector push piece in the side of the case. The corrector limits the water resistance of thewatch to 60 meters. This complicated Nautilus is powered by the famous self-winding Patek
Philippe caliber 240 PS IRM C LU movement. Despite the sophistication of the caliber, it ismerely 3.98 mm high, thanks to the 22K gold minirotor recessed in the main plate.
The new Nautilus Ref. 5712/1 A has a stainless steel case with an integrated stainless steel
bracelet. The outer bracelet links are satin-finished and the middle links are polished.
It is also available in two further versions: the Ref. 5712 R in 18K rose gold and the Ref. 5712 G
in 18K white gold. These watches are worn on hand-stitched, large-scale alligator straps inbrown (rose gold) or safari black (white gold). The straps come with a novel security fold-overclasp in 18K rose or white gold.
An anniversary coup: the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1 A
The timing is perfect. Patek Philippe fans and collectors had to wait years for the firstchronograph crafted entirely in-house. Finally, in 2005, the Geneva workshops presented theRef. 5959P, the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph. In January 2006, it was followed by

Page 5the Ref. 5960P, the first self-winding chronograph with an Annual Calendar, and now, Patek
Philippe unveils the Nautilus Ref. 5980/1 A chronograph. Nothing could better complement thiselegant yet resolutely sporty timepiece than a stopwatch function. Indeed, the new self-winding,column-wheel-controlled caliber 28-520 C chronograph movement and the new 44-mm Nautilus
case are a perfect match. While its architecture is based on the movement of the Ref. 5960, the28-520 C features an instant-change date in an aperture at 3 o’clock and also stands out with anumber of highly interesting chronograph functions. The chronograph hand with the flyback
feature doubles as a constantly running sweep seconds hand. This is possible because in the
new mechanism, the three fine-toothed chronograph wheels normally used to start and stoptime measurements have been replaced by a virtually friction-free, vertical disc-type clutch. The
monocounter that dominates the bottom half of the dial is unusual as well. On three concentricscales, it keeps track of the minutes and hours that have elapsed since a timing was activated.
This fascinating movement is accommodated in the new, subtly redesigned 44-mm Nautiluscase, making it currently the largest model in the collection. The two chronograph push pieces
are so well integrated in the caseband that it seems as if the 1976 design had been conceived
for a chronograph to begin with. The back of the three-part case incorporates a sapphire-crystal
window, revealing the artistic decoration of the superb movement, the gold rotor, and the goldfilled, embossed Geneva Seal.
The new Nautilus Ref. 5980/1 A has a stainless steel case with an integrated stainless steel
bracelet. The outer bracelet links are satin-finished and the middle links are polished.
The new Nautilus collection showcases the flattering redesign of Patek Philippe’s casually
elegant classic. It has gained style through subtle and carefully calculated changes while
preserving its original spirit and mien. And as a crowning achievement, the Nautilus
chronograph Ref. 5980/1 finally rounds out this charismatic family of timepieces – an ideal pointof departure for success in the next 30 years.

Page 6

Technical data
Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 Steel
Movement
Caliber 315 SC
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter:Height:Number of parts:
Number of jewels:
Power reserve:
Winding rotor:
Balance:Frequency:
Balance spring:

27 mm
3.22 mm
213
29
Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Gyromax
21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Flat

Functions:

Winding crown with three positions:– Pushed in: To wind the movement– Pulled halfway out: To correct the date
– Pulled out: To set the time

Displays:– Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds– Date aperture at 3 o'clock

Hallmark:

Geneva Seal

Features:
Case:

Three-part case (back, caseband, bezel)
Stainless steel, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistant screwdown crownBezel with vertical satin finish
water-resistant to 120 meters

Case dimensions:

3 to 9 o’clock: 43 mm (including hinges)
3 to 9 o’clock including crown: 44.02 mm
6 to 12 o’clock: 38 mm (bezel)
2 to 8 o’clock: 40 mm
Height: 8.30 mm

Dial:

Gradation from dark blue in the middle to black at the
periphery, horizontal embossed pattern
12 applied baton hour markers in 18K white gold with luminous
coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold withluminous coating
Seconds hand in white gold

Bracelet:Stainless steel, middle links polished, outer links satin-finished,stainless steel fold-over clasp

Page 7

Nautilus Ref. 5712/1 Steel
Movement
Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter:Height:Number of parts:
Number of jewels:
Power reserve:
Winding rotor:
Balance:Frequency:
Balance spring:

31 mm
3.98 mm265
29
Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Integrated minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Gyromax
21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Flat

Functions:

Winding crown with two positions– Pushed in: To wind the movement– Pulled out: To set the time

Displays:– Hours– Minutes– Seconds between 4 and 5 o’clock– Power-reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o'clock– Date hand between 7 and 8 o’clock– Moon-phase display in an aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:– Moon phase at 4 o’clock– Date at 8 o’clock

Hallmark:

Geneva Seal

Features:
Case:

Three-part case (back, caseband, bezel)
Stainless steel, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistant screwdown crownBezel with vertical satin finish
water-resistant to 60 meters

Case dimensions:

3 to 9 o’clock: 43 mm (including hinges)
3 to 9 o’clock including crown: 44.05 mm
6 to 12 o’clock: 38 mm (bezel)
2 to 8 o’clock: 40 mm
Height: 8.52 mm

Dial:

Gradation from dark blue in the middle to black at the
periphery, horizontal embossed patternPage 810 applied baton hour markers in 18K white gold with luminous
coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold withluminous coating
Seconds, date, and power-reserve hands in 18K white gold,
white lacquered
Bracelet:Stainless steel, middle links polished, outer links satin-finished,stainless steel fold-over clasp

Page 9Nautilus Ref. 5712 R&G
Movement

Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU
Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement

Diameter:Height:Number of parts:
Number of jewels:
Power reserve:
Winding rotor:
Balance:Frequency:
Balance spring:

31 mm
3.98 mm265
29
Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Integrated minirotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
Gyromax
21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Flat

Functions:

Winding crown with two positions– Pushed in: To wind the movement– Pulled out: To set the time

Displays:– Hours– Minutes– Seconds between 4 and 5 o’clock– Power-reserve indicator between 10 and 11 o'clock– Date hand between 7 and 8 o’clock– Moon-phase display in an aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:– Moon phase at 4 o’clock– Date at 8 o’clock (setting stylus in ebony and white or rose gold)

Hallmark:

Geneva Seal

Features:
Case:

Three-part case (back, caseband, bezel)
18K rose or white gold, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistantscrew-down crownBezel with vertical satin finish
water-resistant to 60 meters

Case dimensions:

3 to 9 o’clock: 43 mm (including hinges)
3 to 9 o’clock including crown: 44.05 mm
6 to 12 o’clock: 38 mm (bezel)(44.41 mm including lug links)
2 to 8 o’clock: 40 mm
Height: 8.52 mm

Page 10

Dial:

White gold model: Charcoal, horizontal embossed pattern
Rose gold model: Gradation from dark brown in the middle toblack at the periphery, horizontal embossed pattern
10 applied baton hour markers in 18K rose or white gold withluminous coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose or white goldwith luminous coating
Seconds, date, and power-reserve hands in 18K gold, whitelacquered

Strap:

Hand-stitched, large-scaled alligator strap integrated in thecase, safari black for the white-gold model and brown for therose-gold modelNew, three-part safety, fold-over clasp in 18K white or rosegoldPage 11

Nautilus Ref. 5800/1 Steel
Movement
Caliber 330 SC
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter:Height:Number of parts:
Number of jewels:
Power reserve:
Winding rotor:
Balance:Frequency:
Balance spring:

27 mm
3.5 mm217
29
Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Four-arm Gyromax with four inertia blocks
21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Flat

Functions:

Winding crown with three positions:– Pushed in: To wind the movement– Pulled halfway out: To correct the date
– Pulled out: To set the time

Displays:– Hours, minutes and sweep seconds– Date aperture at 3 o'clock

Hallmark:

Geneva Seal

Features:Case:

Two-part case (monocoque and bezel)
Stainless steel, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistant crownwith split stem
Bezel with vertical satin finish
water-resistant to 120 meters

Case dimensions:

3 to 9 o’clock: 38.40 mm (including hinges)
3 to 9 o’clock including crown: 39.80 mm
6 to 12 o’clock: 33.20 mm (bezel); 38.93 mm (lug links)
2 to 8 o’clock: 34.80 mm
Height: 7.85 mm

Dial:

Gradation from dark blue in the middle to black at the
periphery, horizontal embossed pattern
12 applied baton hour markers in 18K white gold with luminous
coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold withluminous coating
Seconds hand in white gold
Stainless steel, middle links polished, outer links satin-finished,stainless steel fold-over clasp

Bracelet:Page 12

Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1 Steel
Movement:
Caliber CH 28-520 C
Self-winding mechanical movement, column wheel-chronograph,sweep seconds (chronograph hand)
Diameter:Height:Number of parts:
Number of jewels:
Power reserve:
Winding rotor:
Balance:Frequency:
Balance spring:

30 mm
6.63 mm327
35Max. 55 hours
Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding; oil-free ballbearing with zirconium balls
Four-arm Gyromax with four inertia blocks
28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
BreguetFunctions:Two-position crown:– Pulled out: Setting the time
– Pushed in: Winding

Displays:

Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chrono/seconds hand
Dual subsidiary counter dial at 6 o'clock with– 60-minute counter (counts elapsed minutes on two concentricscales from 0 to 30 and 30 to 60, respectively)– 12-hour counter
Display apertures:
Quick-action date at 3 o'clock according to a 1991 Patek Philippe
patent (date change in less than one-tenth of a second)

Function buttons:– Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock– Chronograph hand reset and flyback at 4 o’clock

Corrector push pieces:

Rapid date correction at 8 o'clock (setting stylus in ebony andwhite gold)

Hallmark:

Geneva Seal

Features
Case:

Three-part case (back, caseband, bezel)
Stainless steel, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistant screwdown crownBezel with vertical satin finish
Water-resistant to 120 metersPage 13

Case dimensions:

3 to 9 o’clock: 44 mm (including hinges)
3 to 9 o’clock including crown: 45.60 mm
6 to 12 o’clock: 38.50 mm (bezel); 45.52 mm (including lug
links)
2 to 8 o’clock: 40.50 mm
Height: 12.16 mm

Dial:

Gradation from dark blue in the middle to black at the
periphery,horizontal embossed pattern
9 applied baton hour markers in 18K white gold with luminous
coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K white gold withluminous coating
Steel seconds/chronograph hand, sandblasted and rhodiumed
Monocounter in rhodiumed subsidiary dial
Baton-style hour-counter hand with counterweight, sandblasted
and rhodiumed brass
Arrow-shaped
minute-counter
hand
with
counterweight,
sandblasted and rhodiumed brass with red lacquered tip

Bracelet:Stainless steel, middle links polished, outer links satin-finished,stainless steel fold-over clasp

Page 14The Nautilus in brief:
Key dates
Date

Reference

1976

3700/1A

1981

3800/1A
4700/1A

1998

3710/1A

2004

3711/1A

2005

3712/1A

2006

Presentation of first Nautilus, nicknamed ―Jumbo‖, production
discontinued 1990
Launch of medium model, production discontinued 2006
Launch of ladies’ model, production discontinued 2006
Relaunch of large ―Jumbo‖ model with winding zone indicator IZR,
production discontinued 2006
Launch of large model in white gold, production discontinued 2006
Launch of first Nautilus with large case and three complications,production discontinued 2006
Launch of new collection

Evolution of the new Nautilus 2006 collection
1. Case shape, rounded hinges
2. Sapphire-crystal caseback for all models of the collection
3. The shape of the hour markers matches contour of octagonal bezel at every position
4. Larger hands
5. Bracelet proportions slightly changed and connection improved
6. Models in gold with leather straps
7. First rose gold model in the Nautilus collection
8. New case design (three parts instead of two) with back and screw-down crown
9. New three-part fold-over clasp and double safety feature for leather straps
10. New case dimensions:– New medium size: 38.40 mm (original medium size: 37.5 mm)– New ―Jumbo‖ size: 43 mm (original ―Jumbo‖ size: 42 mm)– Size of new chronograph: 44 mm
11. New complication, self-winding Nautilus chronograph