TRADITIONA

jeweler in Tokyo has been turning heads with agenerally have a beautiful wood grain pattern formed

Fast-forward to the 1990s when Takahashi sought topresent-day customer needs. Together, these businesses

technique that channels traditional metalworking

via the heritage mokume gane technique, which involves

revive the technique. After painstaking efforts, he man-embody the Tokyo Brand; one that can be appreciatedto celebrate romantic unions in a unique way. Mokume-layering, fusing, twisting, carving, and treating different

aged to reproduce a Denbei kozuka, the handle for a small

both domestically and overseas, and carry its treasuresganeya Co., Ltd. creates custom-made wedding and en­

metals. The pattern once forged can never be repeated,knife in a sword fitting, as well as other items similar to

forward into the future.

gagement rings as well as exquisite jewelry with aesthetics

making the wedding rings an apposite artistic embodi-

those of the Edo period. Takahashi decided to apply theAs it has gained recognition, Mokumeganeya has con-that recall the Edo period (1603–1868).

ment of love and matrimony.

art to contemporary jewelry, and his creations have mettinued to grow, opening numerous outlets domestically

Just as weddings are a unique union between two

The traditional techniques and handmade craftsman-with great success. He has produced unique concepts suchas well as one in California. Partly due to the pandemic,people, the rings are made to order—each bespoke pairship of the company are in contrast with their up-to-dateas Tsunagaru Katachi— fashioning a pair of rings from thethere is an increased focus on online sales. “Inquiries fromcreated according to the customer’s preferences—but theysales platform and customer service. Virtual consulta-

same mokume gane plank and then ceremonially separat-other parts of Asia are on the rise,” says Takahashi. “Wetions and online quotations are easily acces-

ing and exchanging them during weddings. Takahashi’s

are increasing specialization in order to give a new gener-

sible in English and other languages on theirwork has gone on to receive a range of accolades andation of craftspeople a chance to show their skill and art-user-friendly website. Engagement and wed­-awards both in Japan and overseas.

istry, as well as increase the popularity of work involving

Crafting Beauty,One Ringat a Time
A jeweler has revived traditional techniques
to fashion unique wedding bands.
by Tim Hornyak

ding rings are shipped all over the world to sat-

In 2020 the company was selected to be part of theisfied customers. All rings come with a lifetime

Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s Edo Tokyo Kirari Proj-

Tokyo is home to many artisans drawing upon thewarranty and digital records are kept of all theect. The initiative is based on the concept of “Old meetsrich legacy of traditional Japanese art forms to createcustomers. Also, customers can now registerNew.” It showcases the treasures of Tokyo—businesses ininnovative products and services. This mix of old andon the Mokumeganeya app and get updates

the capital that display excellence in craftsmanship, qual-

new is one of the elements that make the capital one ofand information about cleaning and mainte-

ity, and design as well as adopting new approaches to meetthe most dynamic cities in the world.

handmade craftsmanship.”nance of their rings.
Mokumeganeya was founded in 1997 bymetalwork artist and CEO Takahashi Masaki.

The work in progress. Different colored metals are layered, fused, twisted,carved, and treated to attain a finish that resembles wood grain.

During his studies at Tokyo University of
the Arts, he discovered and was fascinatedby the wonders of the traditional technique of mokume gane, a term that literallymeans woodgrain metal and signifies boththe fab­r ication procedure and examples of
the technique.
About 400 years ago after a time of upheaval, Japan entered an extended period of peace. Samurai
began to value swords that were increasingly decorative
rather than purely practical. The craftsman Shoami
Denbei began making tsuba (sword guards) by layering
metals of different colors on top of one another, yielding
beautiful patterns in spirals and arabesques. Over time
the technique was refined, producing exquisite mokume
gane sword fittings in shakudo (an alloy of gold andcopper), copper, gold, and silver. After an 1876 decree
abolishing the wearing of swords, the method was applied
to everyday items such as smoking and writing imple-Some of the finished products of the mokume gane technique.
Every piece is unique.

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ments, but was gradually lost as Japan pursued a programof rapid industrialization.
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