WOOLMARK SPECIFICATIONSPECIFICATION AW-1: 2016

FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVENAND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
The Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend logos may be applied to the following products
made from flat woven fabric:• coats (including waistcoats)• accessories (hats, shawls, scarves,gloves, ties)• suits (ie jacket plus trousers)• jackets• trousers• costumes (ie jacket plus skirt)• dresses• skirts• kimonos• dressing gowns• nightwear (excluding dressing gowns)• shirts and blouses.
Pressed felt, pile garment shells or pile woven fabric
The Woolmark logo only may be applied to these products. The Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend
logos must not be used.
Accessories
Decisions on the suitability of accessories other than a hat, shawl, scarf, glove or tie shall be made by
The Woolmark Management Group.

SPECIFICATIONS• Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend branded products are the same as those for
Woolmark branded except where indicated.
• Care claim. If the product care claim (words or symbols) is for both ‘Dry clean’ and ‘Hand wash’,the product shall meet both claim requirements.
• The term ‘Blend’ used in this specification includes both Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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All products
Woven pile
products

Property

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt products
1Suits,trousers

Pass level
23
Coats,
Shirts,jackets,blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressing
gowns,
accessories

Woolmark
Woolmark Blend
Wool Blend

100%50%30%

Woolmark
Blend andWool Blend
are notapplicable

Pure New Wool
Specification F-5
Specification F-7

Wool content (minimum)

155

Garment make-up quality

288

Surface pile weight(g/m²: minimum)

15

Tensile strength
Warp and weft directions(N: minimum)

4196 (>150g/m²)
177 (<150g/m²)

Colourfastness to light(Grade: minimum)
Not applicable to nightwear

5Darker than 1/12 standard depthLighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth
Bright and pastel colours
Darker than 1/12 standard depthLighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth

Colourfastness to rubbing: dry
Stain (minimum)
Products darker than 1/12
standard depth only165•4GarmentshellAcceptable–220

98

147

NA43
3
2–3

3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1.

Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark products is fully described in Specifications F-1 to F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend products is fully described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend products is fully described in Specification F-7.
All pile products must have a pure wool pile but the backing material may be manufactured of analternative material.

2.

Woolmark TM288: Garment appearance
If seconds quality product with minor faults is deemed by The Woolmark Company to be
acceptable for testing this test must not be performed.

3.

Woolmark TM15: Surface pile weightThis property is only measured on pile products.

4.

Woolmark TM04: Tensile strength
Both the warp and weft directions must meet the specification.
Tensile strength measurements are not required for accessories.

5. Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to light
5.1. Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
The specifications for colourfastness to light are not applicable to nightwear.
5.2. For products sold in Australia and South Africa, colourfastness to light, blue reference grade
5 is required for shades darker than 1/3 standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3
and 1/12 standard depth.
5.3. Naturally coloured wool:
Such wools may exhibit poor colourfastness to light. However, the product may carry theWoolmark or Woolmark Blend providing the following text (or similar) is used on the ticket:‘It is an inherent feature of some naturally coloured wools that the colour may fade.’
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
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5.4. Bright and pastel colours:
Only the specific shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card - Bright &Pastel Colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No othershades will be classed as bright or pastel shades without prior approval by the Woolmark
Management Group. Products that exhibit bright and pastel colours and do not meet therequired levels for light fastness may be submitted to the Woolmark Management Group forevaluation. The Woolmark Management Group may approve shades of low light fastness
where unique colours are used.
6.

TM165: Dye fastness
This test is not required on products lighter in shade that 1/12 standard depth.

7. Suits and costumes
Component items made from different fabrics. The individual components must be treated as
separate garments and be evaluated according to the appropriate specification.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Products with a ‘Dry clean only’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change (% maximum)
Number of cycles
Appearance after dry cleaning

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt products

ISO 3175281

1Suits,trousers

Pass level2
3Coats,
Shirts,jackets,
blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressing
gowns,
accessories–3% < DC < 3% in warp and weft
3 x ISO3175 Normal or CDT
Acceptable

Woven pile
products
4GarmentshellsColourfastness to water
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain cotton (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)•6

3–4
333 (for blend only)

NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. ISO 3175: Dimensional stability to dry cleaning• In the event that equipment for ISO 3175 Normal testing is not available, three commercial
dry clean tests (CDT) is a suitable alternative.
• For all dimensional stability testing. ‘Shrinkage’ is denoted by a negative (–) value and an‘extension’ by a positive (+) value.
• –3% < DC < 3% indicates that the shrinkage must be less than –3% and the extension mustbe less than +3%.
Appearance after dry cleaning
The garment appearance after dry cleaning shall be rated according to the criteria in Woolmark
TM281: Afterwash appearance of woven fabrics and garments.
2. Woolmark TWC-TM6: Colourfastness to water
Undyed and bleached white products are not to be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric and isrequired for Woolmark Blend only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Products with a ‘Hand wash’ or ‘Hand wash or Dry clean’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change - relaxation
WidthLength)
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change - felting
WidthLength
Differential cuff edge
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change - total
Width
LengthTest method

Flat woven or pressed felt products

31

31

31

1Suits,trousers

Pass level2
3Coats,
Shirts,jackets,
blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressing
gowns,
accessories

Woven pile
products
4Garmentshells–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 5A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC

Colourfastness to hand washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

250

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

•

3–4
4
3 – 4 (for blend only)NA

Multicoloured products only
3–44

174

3–4 (for blend only)

NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
2. Woolmark TWC TM-250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Undyed and bleached white products are not to be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Applied to multicoloured products only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Products with a ‘Machine wash’ care claim

Property

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt products
1Suits,trousers

Pass level
23Coats,
Shirts,jackets,
blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressinggowns,
accessories

Woven pile
products
4GarmentshellsDimensional change – relaxation
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting
Width
LengthDifferential cuff edge shrinkage
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total
Width
LengthAfterwash appearance
Fabric smoothness (grade: minimum)
Seam smoothness (grade: minimum)
No. and type of wash cycles
Colourfastness to machine wash
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

•31

31

31–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–––1 < DC <+1
3 x 5A–––1 < DC <+1
3 x 5A–––1 < DC <+1
5 x 5A–––1 < DC < +1
3 x 5A–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC-3 < DC31

44
1 x 7A

193

3–4
4
3–4

174

Multicoloured products only
3–44
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 indicates extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
For accessories (hats, shawls, etc.) only 1 x 7A plus 1 x 5A wash cycles are required.
After wash appearance
Assessment is to be carried out following ironing as described in Woolmark TWC-TM31. Inaddition to the fabric related appearance retention criteria, the product must not exhibit problems
related to garment trim, which are likely to lead to consumer complaint (e.g. no colour bleedingfrom waist band trim, zip must function, button must not be loose, belt loops must not become
detached or distorted, etc).
2.

Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry anadvisory statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details ofthese additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.

3.

Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Specification applies to multicoloured products only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Products with a ‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ or ‘Total Easy Care’ care claim
Woven pile
products

Property

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt products
1
Suits,trousers

Pass level2
Coats, jackets
costumes,
skirts, dresses
kimonos,
dressing gowns,
accessories

3
Shirtsblouses,nightwear

4
Garment
shellsDimensional change – relaxation
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting
WidthLengthDifferential cuff edge shrinkage
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total
Width
LengthAfterwash appearance
Fabric smoothness (grade: minimum)
Seam smoothness (grade: minimum)
No. and type of wash/dry cycles
Colourfastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

•31

31

31

–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x [7A + TD]–––1 < DC <+15 x [5A + TD]–––1 < DC <+1
5 x [5A + TD]–––1 < DC <+1
5 x [5A + TD]–––1 < DC <+1
5 x [5A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC3144
1 x [7A + TD]

193

3–4
4
3–4

174

Multicoloured products only
3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 indicates extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
For accessories (hats, shawls, scarves, gloves or ties) only 1 x [7A+TD] plus 1 x [5A+TD] wash
cycles are required.
Afterwash and dry appearance
Assessment to be carried out following ironing. In addition to the fabric related appearance
retention criteria, the product must not exhibit problems related to garment trim, which are likely tolead to consumer complaint (eg no colour bleeding from waist band trim, zip must function, buttonmust not be loose, belt loops must not become detached or distorted, etc).
2. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
If products fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry anadvisory statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details ofthese additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Applies only to multicoloured products.
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AW-1 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Test and report criteria
The following are properties that must be tested on the samples provided but for which there is nopass or fail criteria• abrasion resistance• seam slippage• pilling propensity
The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate method and report the result to his customer.
The failure of the product to meet the guideline performance level must be highlighted by theWoolmark controller to the licensee.
When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice or assistance to the licensee toimprove the performance of the product under normal commercial arrangements for consultancies.
The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be subject to agreement between the fabricmanufacturer and their customer. The Woolmark Company shall not act to arbitrate between the twoparties on such issues.
Flat woven or pressed felt products

Woven pile
products

Test method

Guideline performance level
1
Suits,trousers

2
Coats, jackets
costumes
skirts,dresses,
kimonos,dressinggowns,
accessories

3Shirts,blouses,nightwear

4Garmentshell112

20101510117

610610Property

Abrasion (000 rubs: minimum)
Seam slippage (mm opening:maximum)
Pilling indication of propensity

196

NOTES
1. Accessories
Test and report measurements do not have to be applied to accessories.
2. Woolmark TM112: Abrasion resistance
The abrasion resistance of fabrics is related to many factors (e.g. fibre fineness, yarn count, yarn
type, weave) and it is difficult to correlate the abrasion conditions of a fabric during wear with testresults because of the many facets of abrasion. An individual test can provide only a comparison
with previous experience with a particular fabric rather than an exact prediction of the wear life ofa fabric. However, fabrics must be tested according to Woolmark TWC-TM112 and it is advisedthat the guideline performance given in the preceding table be achieved.
3. Woolmark TM117: Seam slippage
It is recognised that seam slippage can be reduced by special seaming techniques. However,fabrics must be tested according to Woolmark TWC-TM117 and it is advised that the guideline
performance given in the preceding table be achieved.
4. Woolmark TM196: Pilling propensity
Due to the many factors affecting pilling, there is no universally accepted test method that
accurately predicts the likely propensity of a fabric to pill during use. However, fabrics must betested according to Woolmark TWC-TM196.
COMMENTS
Pilling in wear is a highly variable process. The same fabric worn by different people under similar
circumstances may pill quite differently. Further differences exist between consumers in theirperception of what is unacceptable. The Woolmark Company pilling test is a simple method thatindicates the propensity to pilling for most fabrics, although it may not always give a true
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
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comparative indication of differences between fabrics because pilling is assessed after a fixed
time interval. Pilling is a dynamic property, and the rate of pilling can often change according totime and wear. Some of the most important factors influencing pilling propensity are fibre
diameter, fibre length, yarn twist level and fabric construction.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
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