SPECIFICATION AD-1: 2016
WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
The Woolmark, Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend device or brand may be applied to the following
products made from wool-containing denim:•trousers•jackets•dresses•skirts.
A ‘wool-containing denim’ is defined as a product made with a woven warp-faced twill fabric; warp
yarns are dyed in a way designed to fade during finishing or use.
The fibre content of the warp yarns can be cotton, wool or wool blends. The fibre content of the weftyarns can be wool or wool blends.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AD-1 WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS

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All products

Property

TestMethod

Wool content (%: minimum)

155

Garment make-up quality

288

Jackets,Skirts,
Dresses

Trousers
Woolmark:
Woolmark Blend:
Wool Blend:

100% (see Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 or F-4)
50% (see Specification F-5)
30% (see Specification F-7)
Acceptable• Fabric weight < 200g/m²
250 warp × 175 weft

Tensile strength (N: minimum)
4200 warp × 150 weft (allfabrics)• Fabric weight > 200g/m²
300 warp × 200 weft

Non-recoverable extension (%:maximum)
Stretch direction
Non-stretch direction

179

Steam dimensional change (%)

290-3 < DCAbrasion (‘000 rubs: minimum)

112

20

Seam slippage (mm opening: maximum)

117

•63

610

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark products is described in Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 and F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend products is described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend products is described in Specification F-7.
Products containing regenerated cellulosic fibres (viscose, etc.) or synthetic fibres may be
accepted only after submission to the Woolmark Management Group for approval. Elastane orrelated filament may be used to impart stretch provided it does not exceed 10% of the weight of
the fabric.
2.

Woolmark TM288: Garment appearance
If seconds quality product with minor faults is deemed by The Woolmark Company to be
acceptable for testing, this test must not be performed.

3.

Woolmark TM4: Tensile strength
Both the warp and weft directions must meet the specification.

4.

Woolmark TM179: Stretch, and growth properties
Only applicable to stretch products.

5.

Woolmark TM290: Dimensional stability to steaming–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in steaming must not exceed 3%.
Only applicable to stretch products.

6.

Woolmark TM112: Abrasion resistance
The abrasion resistance of fabrics is related to many factors (e.g. fibre fineness, yarn count, yarn
type, weave, etc) and it is difficult to correlate the abrasion conditions of a fabric during wear withtest results because of the many facets of abrasion. An individual test can provide only acomparison with previous experience with a particular fabric rather than an exact prediction of
the wear life of a fabric. Fabrics not reaching the required performance can only be approved by
the WMG.

7.

Woolmark TM117: Seam slippage
It is recognised that seam slippage can be reduced by special seaming techniques. Whereappropriate, the test may be modified to use the seam as sewn in the final garment provided thatthe information on the type of seam used is included on the test report.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AD-1 WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Dimensional stability to machine wash

Property

Test
MethodTrousers

Jackets,Skirts,
Dresses–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC
1 × 7A–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC
1 × 7A–––1 < DC < +1
5 × 5A–––1 < DC < +1
5 × 5A–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width – non-stretch products
Width – stretch products
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles

31

Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthDifferential cuff edge shrinkage
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total
Width – non-stretch products
Width – stretch products
LengthAfter wash appearance
Hairiness on belt loop, pockets, seams andedges in general.
No. and type of wash cycles

•31

31

31

Clean appearance with no hairiness1 × 7A + 1 × 5A

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1.

Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 indicates extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
The specifications for relaxation dimensional change do not apply to products to sold as ‘shrink
to fit’ or ‘raw denim’, which are designed to change their dimension at the first wash.

2.

After wash appearance
Assess after drying. The product must not exhibit problems related to hairiness of the fabric atpoints subject to friction during washing. Garment trims that are likely to lead to consumer
complaint must be inspected: zip must function, button must not be loose, belt loops must not
become detached, etc.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AD-1 WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Dimensional stability in washing and tumble drying

Property

Test
methodTrousers

Jackets,Skirts,
Dresses–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC-5 < DC–3 < DC

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width – non-stretch products
Width – stretch products
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles

31

Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthDifferential cuff edge shrinkage
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
Width – non-stretch products
Width – stretch products
LengthAfter wash appearance
Hairiness on belt loop, pockets, seams
and edges in general.
No. and type of wash cycles

•31

31

31

Clean appearance with no hairiness1 × [7A + TD] + 2 × [5A + TD]

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the fabric in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 indicates extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
[7A + TD] indicates a 7A wash followed by a tumble drying in an approved tumble dryer.
[5A + TD] indicates a 5A wash followed by a tumble drying in an approved tumble dryer.
The specifications for relaxation dimensional change do not apply to products to sold as ‘shrink tofit’ or ‘raw denim’, which are designed to change their dimension at the first wash.
After wash appearance—assess after drying. The product must not exhibit problems related tohairiness of the fabric in points more subject to friction during washing. Furthermore the garment
trims which are likely to lead to consumer complaint must be inspected: zip must function, buttonmust not be loose, belt loops must not become detached, etc.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AD-1 WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Colourfastness Properties

Test
methodTrousers,
Jackets,
Skirts,DressesColourfastness to light(Grade: minimum)

5

3–4

Colourfastness to rubbing:Dry(Grade minimum)

165

3

193

3
2–3
3

Property

Colourfastness to machine wash
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)•

Multicoloured products only
174

3
2–3
3

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to light
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
Naturally Coloured Wool may exhibit poor colourfastness to light but the product may carry theWoolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend if the following text (or similar) is used on the ticket. ‘It
is an inherent feature of some naturally coloured wools that the colour may fade’.
2. TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
This test is not required on products lighter in shade that 1/12 standard depth.
3. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to Machine Washing
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate.
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry an advisory
statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these
additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
4. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Specification only applies to multi-coloured products.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AD-1 WOOL-CONTAINING DENIM APPAREL PRODUCTS

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