Operation Manual

Cover stitch machine / Top cover stitch machine
Product Code: 884-B30 / B31

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONSWhen using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following.
Read all instructions before using this machine.

DANGERTo reduce the risk of electric shock.
The sewing machine should never be left unattended
when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machinefrom the electrical outlet immediately after using andbefore cleaning.

WARNINGTo reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention isnecessary when the sewing machine is used by or nearchildren.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use
as described in this manual. Use only accessories
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in thismanual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged
cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Returnthe sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer
or service center for examination, repair, electrical ormechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot controller free from the accumulationof lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being
used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O”
position which represents off, then remove plug fromoutlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp theplug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care isrequired around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate cancause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect
the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position
when making any adjustments in the needle area, suchas threading needle, changing needle, or changing
presser foot, etc.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electricaloutlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual.
16. Electrical Hazards:- This machine should be connected to an AC powersource within the range indicated on the rating label.
Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If
you are not sure what kind of power source you have,contact a qualified electrician.
- This machine is approved for use in the country ofpurchase only.
17. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young
children or infirm persons without supervision.
18. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they
do not play with this sewing machine.

19. Do not disassenble the machine.
20. If the LED light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it
must be replaced by authorized dealer.

CAUTION

To use the machine safely
1. (For U.S.A. only)This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other) to reduce the risk of electric shock, thisplug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician toinstall the proper outlet.
Do not modify the plug in any way.
2. Make sure you watch the needles carefully while you aresewing. Do not touch the handwheel, needles, knives, orother moving parts.
3. Turn off the main power and unplug the cord in thefollowing circumstances:- When you have stopped using the machine- When you are replacing or removing the needle or any
other part- If there is a power failure while you are using themachine- If you are checking or cleaning the machine- Leaving the machine unattended
4. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
5. Fully plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use
extension cords.
6. If water is dropped on the machine, unplug the machine
immediately, and contact your local authorized dealer.
7. Do not put furniture on the cord.
8. Do not bend the cord, or pull on the cord to unplug.
9. Do not touch the cord with wet hands.
10. Place the machine near to the wall outlet.
11. Do not place the machine on an unstable surface.
12. Do not put on the soft cover.
13. If you notice any abnormal sound or condition, consult
your local authorized dealer.
To give your machine a longer life
1. Do not store this machine in direct sunlight or in highhumidity conditions. Do not use or store the machinenear a heater, iron, halogen lamp or other hot object.
2. Use only mild soaps or detergents to clean the case.
Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage
the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult this manual before you replace or fit thepresser foot, needle, or any other parts to make sure
you fit them correctly.
To repair or adjust the machine
If the machine breaks down or needs adjustment,
first follow the troubleshooting table to inspect andadjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists,
consult your local authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONSThis machine is intended for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT CENELEC COUNTRIESThis appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience andknowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerninguse of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should besupervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN CENELEC COUNTRIESThis appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons
with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience andknowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of
the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shallnot play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made bychildren without supervision.

CAUTION
When leaving this sewing machine unattended, the main power and light switch of the machine must be
switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers, the machine or the electrical set must be
disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,
MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLYIMPORTANT- In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying themark,rating as marked on plug.
- Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
- If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact
your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

1

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING THIS COMPACTOVERLOCK MACHINEYour machine is a high quality, easy-to-use product. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study
this booklet.
If you need more information regarding the use of your machine, your nearest authorized dealer is always
happy to be of service.
Enjoy yourself!

CAUTION
When threading or replacing needle, the main power and light switch of the machine must be switched off or
the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.
When the machine is not in use, it is recommended that the electric supply plug is disconnected from thewall socket to avoid any possible hazards.

Notes on the motor- The maximum operating speed of this sewing machine is 1,000 stitches per minute, which is quite fastcompared to the normal operating speed of 300 to 800 stitches per minute for the ordinary sewing machine.
- The bearings in the motor are made of a special material (oil-impregnated alloy mounted in felt heat-treatedwith oil) that enables them to withstand long hours of continuous operation.
- Continuous operation of the sewing machine can cause heat to build in the motor area, but not enough toadversely affect its performance.
It is important to keep fabric and paper away from the air openings on the back and sides of the machine so
air can get to these openings.
- When the motor is running, sparks can be seen through the air openings in the motor bracket on the side
opposite the handwheel. These sparks are produced by the carbon brushes and the commutator, and are partof the machines normal operation.

WARNING LABELS(for complying with UL and CSA requirements)
The following warning labels are on the machine.
Be sure to observe the precautions described in the labels.
Caution (U.S.A. and CANADA only)
1
Label locations

2

AVERTISSEMENT:AVERTISSEMENT:PARTIES EN
EN MOUVEMENT.
MOUVEMENT. POUR
POUR
PARTIESÉVITER TOUTE
TOUTE BLESSURE:
BLESSURE:
ÉVITERFERMERFERMER LE
LE CAPOTCAPOT AVANT
AVANT DEDE
COUDRE.
COUDRE.
DÉBRANCHER AVANT
AVANT ENTRETIEN.
ENTRETIEN.
DÉBRANCHER

Face plate sticker (U.S.A. and CANADA only)
3

2

Contents
Chapter 1 : NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS..................................................... 4

Machine (Cover stitch model) (Product code: 884-B30)......................................................4
Accessories (Cover stitch model)........................................................................................5
Machine (Top cover stitch model) (Product code: 884-B31)................................................6
Accessories (Top cover stitch model)..................................................................................7
Powering the machine.........................................................................................................8
Turning direction of handwheel............................................................................................8
Opening/Closing front cover................................................................................................8
Attaching/Removing a presser foot......................................................................................8
Free-arm sewing (removing the bed extension)...................................................................9
Looper thread tension adjustment lever...............................................................................9
Stitch length.........................................................................................................................10
Differential feed....................................................................................................................10
Adjusting the presser foot pressure.....................................................................................11
Adjusting the tension dials...................................................................................................11
Needle.................................................................................................................................12
Removing/Installing the needle............................................................................................12

Chapter 2 : PREPARATION BEFORE THREADING............................................................... 13
Thread tree..........................................................................................................................13
Using the thread spool cap..................................................................................................13
Spool mat.............................................................................................................................13
Using the spool mat.............................................................................................................13
Using the thread net............................................................................................................14
Before threading..................................................................................................................14

Chapter 3 : THREADING (Cover stitch model)...................................................................... 15
Threading the looper............................................................................................................15
Threading the needles.........................................................................................................16

Chapter 4 : THREADING (Top cover stitch model)............................................................... 17
Threading the looper............................................................................................................17
Threading the needles.........................................................................................................18
Attaching/Removing the top cover spreader and top cover thread guide............................19
Threading the top cover spreader........................................................................................20

Chapter 5 : TYPE OF STITCHES COMPARISON CHART...................................................... 21
Chapter 6 : SEWING................................................................................................................ 24
Sewing flat fabric (for example, trial sewing)........................................................................24
Removing the fabric from the machine (Cover stitch model)...............................................24
Removing the fabric from the machine (Top cover stitch model).........................................25
Sewing a cover stitch...........................................................................................................27
Sewing tubular garments (for example, cuffs)......................................................................27
Stabilizing the beginning and end of stitching......................................................................28

Chapter 7 : TROUBLESHOOTING........................................................................................... 29
Chapter 8 : MAINTENANCE.................................................................................................... 30
Cleaning...............................................................................................................................30

SPECIFICATIONS..................................................................................................................... 31

3

Chapter 1
NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Machine (Cover stitch model) (Product code: 884-B30)
1
9

0

A

2

B
C

3
4
5
N

E
F
D

6

G
8

7

H

Inside of the front cover
I
R

Q

J
P

K
L

S

O
M

&!

%!

T

$!

1 Thread tree
2 Presser foot pressure adjustment screw
3 Thread take-up cover
4 Thread cutter
5 Material plate cover
6 Needles
7 Bed extension
8 Presser foot9 Left needle thread tension dial
0 Center needle thread tension dial
A Right needle thread tension dial
B Looper thread tension dial
C Presser foot lever
D Front cover
E Thread guide
F Spool pin
G Spool cushion

4

H Spool support
I Stitch length adjustment dial
J Differential feed ratio adjustment dial
K Handwheel
L Main power and light switch
M Foot controller socket
N Handle
O Air openings
Inside of the front cover
P Looper thread tension adjustment lever
Q Looper thread take-up
R Looper
S Looper release levert Front cover compartment
You can store the included accessories in thisfront cover compartment. <A>: Needle set,
<B>: Tweezers, <C>: Hexagonal driverAccessories (Cover stitch model)
 Included accessory
1

9

No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

0
2
A

3

9
0
A

Part Name
Soft cover
Accessory box
Tweezers
Thread net (4)Thread spool cap (4)Cleaning brushHexagonal driver
Needle set (130/705H)#90: 3 pcs.
Clear footAttachment screw (2)Spool mat (4)BFoot controller

C

Instruction DVD

D

Operation Manual

8

B

4
5
C
6
7

D

Part Code
XB3264001
XB3291001
XB1618001
X75904000
X77260000
X75906001
XB0393001
XB1216001
XB3361001
XB3292001
XB1218001
XC7359021 (120V Area)
XB3112001 (230V Area)
XB3134001 (U.K.)
XB3200001 (Argentina)
XB3156001 (Korea)
XB3255001 (China)
XB3190001(Australia, New Zealand)
XF2826001 (Brazil 127V)
XB3178001 (Brazil 220V)
XB3301001 (NTSC)XB3305001 (PAL)-8

 Optional accessory
When using the following accessories, use the presser foot included in the accessories.
E

F

No.

Product Name

Americas

E Hemming set

SA221CVF Bias tape folder

SA222CVG Belt loop guide

SA223CVH Bias tape binding set

SA230CVI Dual function fold binder

SA231CV

GPart CodeEuropeSA221CV/
XB2970-101
SA222CV/
XB2971-101
SA223CV/
XB2972-101
SA230CV/
XB3387-001
SA231CV/
XB3388-001

Others
SA221CVSA222CV
SA223CVSA230CVAP
SA231CVAP

H

I

5Machine (Top cover stitch model) (Product code: 884-B31)
a
k

l

m
n

b

o
p

c
d
e

Q

H
q
f
h

g

i

I

j

J

Inside of the front cover

K

U

L

T

M
S

N

V

O
&!

%!

W

$!

1 Thread tree
2 Presser foot pressure adjustment screw
3 Thread take-up cover
4 Thread cutter
5 Material plate cover
6 Needles
7 Bed extension
8 Presser foot9 Top cover spreader
0 Top cover thread guide
A Left needle thread tension dial
B Center needle thread tension dial
C Right needle thread tension dial
D Top cover thread tension dial
E Looper thread tension dial
F Presser foot lever
G Front cover
H Thread guide
I Spool pin

6RP

J Spool cushion
K Spool support
L Stitch length adjustment dial
M Differential feed ratio adjustment dial
N Handwheel
O Main power and light switch
P Foot controller socket
Q Handle
R Air openings
Inside of the front cover
S Looper thread tension adjustment levert Looper thread take-up
U LooperV Looper release lever
W Front cover compartment
You can store the included accessories in thisfront cover compartment. <A>: Needle set, <B>:
Tweezers, <C>: Hexagonal driverAccessories (Top cover stitch model)
 Included accessory
1

9

No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

0
2
A

3

9
0
A
B
C

Part Name
Soft cover
Accessory box
Tweezers
Thread net (5)Thread spool cap (5)Cleaning brushHexagonal driver
Needle set (130/705H)#90: 3 pcs.
Clear footTop cover spreader
Top cover thread guideAttachment screw (2)Spool mat (5)DFoot controller

E

Instruction DVD

F

Operation Manual

8

B

4
C
5
D
6
7
8

E

Part Code
XB3264001
XB3291001
XB1618001
X75904000
X77260000
X75906001
XB0393001
XB1216001
XB3361001
XB3090001
XB3105001
XB3292001
XB1218001
XC7359021 (120V Area)
XB3112001 (230V Area)
XB3134001 (U.K.)
XB3200001 (Argentina)
XB3156001 (Korea)
XB3255001 (China)
XB3190001(Australia, New Zealand)
XF2826001 (Brazil 127V)
XB3178001 (Brazil 220V)
XB3301001 (NTSC)XB3305001 (PAL)-F

 Optional accessory
When using the following accessories, use the presser foot included in the accessories.
G

H
I
J

No.

Product Name

Americas

G Hemming set *SA221CVH Bias tape folder

SA222CVI Belt loop guide

SA223CVJ Bias tape binding set

SA230CVK Dual function fold binder

SA231CV

Part CodeEuropeSA221CV/
XB2970-101
SA222CV/
XB2971-101
SA223CV/
XB2972-101
SA230CV/
XB3387-001
SA231CV/
XB3388-001

Others
SA221CVSA222CV
SA223CVSA230CVAP
SA231CVAP* Can be used only with a cover stitch; cannot be used with a top cover stitch.

K

7

Powering the machine Turning on the machine
1. Insert the three-pin plug into the socket on thelower-right side of the machine. Insert the power
supply plug into a power outlet.
2. Turn the main power and light switch <A> to “I”
mark (to “O” mark to turn off).

$!

Opening/Closing front cover
It is necessary to open the front cover when
threading this machine. Slide it to the right 1, andthen open it 2. After closing it, slide it to the left.

CAUTIONFor your safety, make sure that the front cover isclosed when operating the machine.
Always turn off the machine before opening thefront cover.

a Operationb

When the foot controller is pressed lightly, themachine runs at a low speed. As the foot controller
is pressed further, the machine will increase
speed. When the foot controller is released, themachine stops.

Attaching/Removing apresser foot1. Turn off the main power and light switch or
disconnect the power supply plug.
2. Raise the presser foot lever 1.

NOTE (For U.S.A. only):
Foot controller: Model KD-1902
This foot controller can be used on the machinewith product code 884-B30 and 884-B31.
* The product code is shown on the machine ratingplate.

Turning direction of
handwheel
The handwheel <A> turns in a counterclockwise
direction (direction of arrow). This is the same
direction as an ordinary home sewing machine.
Move the needles to their highest positions byturning the handwheel so that the mark <B> on the
handwheel is aligned with the line on the machine.

%!

3. Turn the handwheel 2 so that the line on
the handwheel is aligned with the line on themachine. (See “Turning direction of handwheel”
in CHAPTER 1.)
4. Push the button on the presser foot holder 3 torelease the standard presser foot.
5. Raise the presser foot farther by pushing thepresser foot lever upward. Then, remove thepresser foot and store it in a safe location.
6. Again, raise the presser foot farther by pushing
the presser foot lever upward. Place the presser
foot just under the presser foot holder <A> sothat the groove in the bottom of the presser footholder <B> is aligned with the bar on the top of
the foot <C>, and then lower the presser footlever to attach the foot 4.

$!
d
<A>

b

8

<B>

a

a
c

b

d
<C>

Free-arm sewing(removing the bed extension)
Free-arm sewing enables tubular pieces to be
sewn more easily.
1. Remove the bed extension.

1

Looper thread tension
adjustment leverWith the looper thread tension adjustment lever,fine adjustments can be made to the looper threadtension. When sewing stretch fabric or with a small
stitch length, raise the lever to increase the tensionof the looper thread. When sewing non-stretch
fabric or with a large stitch length, lower the leverto reduce the tension of the looper thread.

1
1 Bed extension

NOTE:
Be careful not to lose the removed bed
extension.
2. Position the fabric, and then start sewing.
(See CHAPTER 5.)2

$!

1 Raise the lever to increase the tension of the looper thread.
2 Lower the lever to reduce the tension of the looper thread.
<A> Looper thread tension adjustment lever Non-stretch fabric such as serge
Reduce the tension of the looper thread.

Lever position: Center

Lever position: Down

 Stretch fabric such as smooth knit
Increase the tension of the looper thread.

Lever position: Center

Lever position: Up

9Stitch length
The normal stitch length setting is 3 mm. Tochange the stitch length, turn the stitch length
adjustment dial on the right side of the machine.

The normal setting is 1.0 on the differential feedadjustment dial.
To adjust the differential feed, turn the dial on thelower-right side of the machine.

<A>

a
a
<A>

b
b

1 Shorten the stitch length to a minimum of 2 mm (5/64 inch).
2 Lengthen the stitch to a maximum of 4 mm (5/32 inch).
<A> Selection markDifferential feed
There are two sets of feed dogs under the presser
foot to move the fabric through the machine. The
differential feed controls the movement of both thefront and the rear feed dogs. When set at 1, thefeed dogs are moving at the same speed (ratio of 1).
When the differential feed ratio is set at less than
1, the front feed dogs move less than the rear
feed dogs, stretching the fabric as it is sewn. Thisis effective on lightweight fabric that may pucker.
When the differential feed ratio is set at greaterthan 1, the front feed dogs move more than therear feed dogs, gathering the fabric as it is sewn.
This function assists in removing rippling whensewing stretch fabrics.

 Differential feed adjustment
Feed ratio Main feed Differential(rear)
feed (front)Less than
1.0

1.0Greaterthan 1.0

10EffectApplication

Material is Prevents thinpulled tight. materials
frompuckering
Without
Normaldifferential sewing
feed.
Material is Prevents
gathered
stretchor pushed materials
together.
fromstretching or
puckering

1 Less than 1.0
2 Greater than 1.0<A> Selection markAn example
When stretch material is sewn without using thedifferential feed, the fabric will be wavy.

To get a smooth finish, adjust the feed ratio from 1.0
toward 2.0.
(The feed ratio required depends on the elasticityof the material.)
The more elastic the material, the further toward
2.0 the differential feed ratio should be set. Test
sew with a scrap of the fabric to find the correct
adjustment.

CAUTION
When sewing thick non-stretchable material suchas denim, do not use the differential feed as it may
damage the fabric.

Adjusting the presser
foot pressure
Turn the pressure adjustment screw on the left of
the top of the machine. Refer to the value on thescrew to make the adjustment.

 Tension control
Sewing is possible at position “4” for mostcircumstances. (Standard: SPAN #60)
If the stitch quality is insufficient, select a different
tension setting.

The normal setting is “2”.



1


3
2



a

b

$!

<A>
1 Less pressure
2 More pressure<A> Selection markAdjusting the tension dials
There is a thread tension dial for each needle
thread, the looper thread and the top cover thread.
The correct thread tension may vary according to
the type and thickness of the fabric and the type of
thread used. Thread tension adjustments may benecessary for any change in sewing materials.

1 For heavy tension: 4 to 6
2 For light tension: 4 to 2
3 For medium tension: 5 to 3
<A> Tension selection mark

CAUTION
Make sure that the thread is properly seated in thetension discs.

 Cover stitch model
1



2


4

4

3

4


4


4

1 The tension dial marked in yellow is for the left needle thread.
2 The tension dial marked in green is for the center needle
thread.
3 The tension dial marked in pink is for the right needle thread.
4 The tension dial marked in blue is for the looper thread.

 Top cover stitch model
1


4

2


4

3


4

4


4

5


4

1 The tension dial marked in yellow is for the left needle thread.
2 The tension dial marked in green is for the center needle
thread.
3 The tension dial marked in pink is for the right needle thread.
4 The tension dial marked in purple is for the top cover thread.
5 The tension dial marked in blue is for the looper thread.

11

NeedleThis machine uses a standard home sewing
machine needle.
The recommended needle is 130/705H (#90).

 Needle description

2. Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
handwheel is aligned with the line on themachine. (See “Turning direction of handwheel”
in CHAPTER 1.)
3. Loosen the corresponding needle set screw
by turning it with the included hexagonal drivertoward 2 in the illustration, and then remove
the needle.

2

1

To remove:
1. Turn off the main power and light switch.

3

To install:
1. Turn off the main power and light switch.

1 Back (flat side)
2 Front
3 Groove

2. Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
handwheel is aligned with the line on themachine.

 How to check the needle

3. Hold the needle with its flat side away from you
and insert it up as far as it will go.
54
4 Flat surface
5 Place the needle on its flat side and check to see if the spaceis even.

4. Tighten the needle set screw securely byturning it with turning the included hexagonal
driver toward 1 in the illustration.
NOTE:
Be sure to insert the needles all the way.

NOTE:
Fabric damage can be reduced by using 130/705H
SUK (#90) BALL POINT.

Removing/Installingthe needle<A> Removing/installing the left needle<B> Removing/installing the center needle<C> Removing/installing the right needle$!

Always be sure to turn off the power before
removing/inserting the needle.

%!







&!



1 Tighten
2 Loosen

12

CAUTION
Do not drop the needle and needle set screw inthe machine, otherwise it may be damaged.

Chapter 2
PREPARATION BEFORE THREADING
Thread tree
Raise the telescoping thread tree to its highest
position. Make sure that the thread holders arein alignment above the spool pins as illustrated
below.

CAUTION

Before using a thread spool, be sure to remove thespool cushion.

Cover stitch model

1
3

Before using loosely spun nylon thread, be sure to
install the spool cushion.

2
If the thread spool cap is not fully pushed down,
the thread may become entangled on the spool pin
or the needle may bend or break.

Top cover stitch model

Spool mat1
3
2

When using thread spools or loosely spun threadthat easily slips off the spool, place this mat under
the spool.
This prevents the thread from becoming entangled
on the spool pin.

1 Thread holder on thread tree
2 Spool pin
3 Correct position

Using the thread
spool cap
When using sewing thread spools, the thread
spool cap should be used as illustrated below.
Make sure that the spool notch is on the bottom.

Using the spool mat
1. Remove the spool cushion, and then place thespool mat on the spool pin.
2. Place the thread spool (with the spool notch at
the bottom) on the spool pin, and then place thethread spool cap on top and fully push it down.
2

3
4

1 Thread spool cap

1
1 Spool cushion
2 Thread spool cap
3 Spool support
4 Spool mat

CAUTION
If the thread spool cap is not fully pushed down
against the thread spool, the thread may become
entangled on the spool pin or the needle may bendor break.

13

Using the thread net
If you are sewing with loosely spun nylon thread,
we recommend that you cover the spool with theincluded net in order to prevent the thread fromslipping off the spool.
Adapt the net to the shape of the spool.

Before threading
1. Turn off the main power and light switch forsafety.

2. Raise the presser foot using the presser footlever.

3. Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
handwheel <A> is aligned with the line <B>on the machine. (See “Turning direction of
handwheel” in CHAPTER 1.)

%!

14

$!

Chapter 3
THREADING (Cover stitch model)

CAUTION

1. Open the front cover by sliding it to the right andguiding the top toward you.

Before threading, turn off the machine for safety.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up
through thread holder 1 and thread holder 2on the thread tree, from back to front.
3. Pass the looper thread 3 as shown in theillustration.

Threading the looper
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the blue line and the numbers next toeach threading point.

2

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 inthe channel next to the tension dial marked witha blue .
5. Guide the thread down the channel and throughthreading points 5-9, following the numericalorder in the illustration.
6. After running the thread to 9, push the looper
release lever 0 to move the looper to the right A,
and then run the thread through B-C.

1

7. Pull about 10 cm (4 inch) of thread through theeye of the looper.
8. While pushing the looper D, return the looper
to its original position.

3

9. Close the front cover.

3


NOTE:
When using thick thread, such as decorative
thread, as the looper thread, run the thread asshown in the illustration.



A



4
A

3
4
Do not run the thread through A.

C
A

B
6

9

5

D
:

8

7

15

Threading the needles
 Needle threads used by the various
stitches
The triple cover stitch (three-needle, four-thread
cover stitch) uses the left needle thread, center
needle thread and right needle thread.
The two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Wide) (6mm (15/64 inch)) uses the left needle thread andright needle thread.
The two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Narrow)(3 mm (1/8 inch)) uses the center needle thread
and right needle thread.
The chain stitch uses the center needle thread
and looper thread.

2



1



Threading the left needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the yellow numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)
Threading the center needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the green numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)
Threading the right needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the pink numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)

CAUTION
When threading the needles, always thread in thefollowing order: left needle, center needle and rightneedle.



1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up
through thread holder 111 and thread holder
222 on the thread tree, from back to front.
2. Pass each thread through 333, shown in theillustration.



3



F



4

3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 444
in the channel next to the tension dial.
4. Guide the thread down the channel and acrossthrough threading points 555-888 next tothe color marks, following the numerical order in
the illustration.
5. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle,
front to back.

A
DB C
7 

8

4
6
5

3  
 





8

E
9
To left needle
To center needle
To right needle
Branching plate
Pull about 6 cm (about 2-1/2 inches) of thread through theeye of the needle.
999 Front to back
A
B
C
D
E

16

Chapter 4
THREADING (Top cover stitch model)

CAUTION

1. Open the front cover by sliding it to the right andguiding the top toward you.

Before threading, turn off the machine for safety.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up
through thread holder 1 and thread holder 2on the thread tree, from back to front.
3. Pass the looper thread 3 as shown in theillustration.

Threading the looper
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the blue line and the numbers next toeach threading point.

2

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 inthe channel next to the tension dial marked witha blue .
5. Guide the thread down the channel and throughthreading points 5-9, following the numericalorder in the illustration.
6. After running the thread to 9, push the looper
release lever 0 to move the looper to the right A,
and then run the thread through B-C.

1

7. Pull about 10 cm (4 inch) of thread through theeye of the looper.
8. While pushing the looper D, return the looper
to its original position.

3

9. Close the front cover.

3


NOTE:
When using thick thread, such as decorative
thread, as the looper thread, run the thread asshown in the illustration.



A



4
A

3
4
Do not run the thread through A.

C
A

B
6

9

5

D
:

8

7

17

Threading the needles
 Needle threads used by the various
stitches
The triple cover stitch (three-needle, four-thread
cover stitch) uses the left needle thread, center
needle thread and right needle thread.
The two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Wide) (6mm (15/64 inch)) uses the left needle thread andright needle thread.
The two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Narrow)(3 mm (1/8 inch)) uses the center needle thread
and right needle thread.
The chain stitch uses the center needle thread andlooper thread.
2





1





Threading the left needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the yellow numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)
Threading the center needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the green numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)
Threading the right needle
Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the pink numbers and  marks next to
the threading points. (1-9)

CAUTION
When threading the needles, always thread in thefollowing order: left needle, center needle and rightneedle.
1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up
through thread holder 111 and thread holder
222 on the thread tree, from back to front.
2. Pass each thread through 333, shown in theillustration.



3



F



4

3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 444
in the channel next to the tension dial.
4. Guide the thread down the channel and acrossthrough threading points 555-888 next tothe color marks, following the numerical order in
the illustration.
5. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle,
front to back.

A

4

DB C
7 

8

3  
 

6

5  

8

E
9
To left needle
To center needle
To right needle
Branching plate
Pull about 6 cm (about 2-1/2 inches) of thread through theeye of the needle.
999 Front to back
A
B
C
D
E

18

Attaching/Removing
the top cover spreader andtop cover thread guide Attaching the top cover spreader andtop cover thread guide
1. Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
handwheel <A> is aligned with the line <B> on
the machine.

 Removing the top cover spreader andtop cover thread guide
1. Turn the handwheel so that the line on the
handwheel is aligned with the line on themachine.

%!

$!

2. Press the lever on the top cover thread guidemount, and then remove the top cover thread
guide.

%!

$!

2. Squeeze the grip of the top cover spreader tospread the tips, and then, from the right side,clamp the mount of the top cover spreader onto
the top cover drive shaft.

1
2

1

3
1 Lever
2 Top cover thread guide2

3. Squeeze the grip of the top cover spreader tospread the tips, and then remove the mount of
the top cover spreader from the top cover drive
shaft.
1 Grip of top cover spreader
2 Mount of top cover spreader
3 Top cover drive shaft

3. Insert the top cover thread guide into the slot in
the top cover thread guide mount.

5
4

3

5
4

3 Grip of top cover spreader
4 Mount of top cover spreader
5 Top cover drive shaft

4 Top cover thread guide5 Slot19

Threading the top coverspreaderNOTE:
Thread the top cover thread after first sewing acover stitch seam.

1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up
through thread holder 1 and thread holder 2on the thread tree, from back to front.
2. Pass each thread through 3, shown in theillustration.

The triple top cover stitch (three-needle, fivethread) uses the left needle thread, center needle
thread and right needle thread.

3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 inthe channel next to the tension dial marked witha purple .
4. Guide the thread down the channel and acrossthrough threading points 5-9 next to the color
marks, following the numerical order in theillustration.

The top cover two-needle, three-thread coverstitch (Wide) (6 mm (15/64 inch)) uses the left
needle thread and right needle thread.

5. Turn the handwheel counterclockwise to movethe point of the top cover spreader completely
to the left.

The top cover two-needle, three-thread coverstitch (Narrow) (3 mm (1/8 inch)) uses the center
needle thread and right needle thread.

6. Thread the point of the top cover spreader asshown in the illustration 0.

 Needle threads used by the various
stitches

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated,following the purple color and the numbers next toeach threading point.
2

7. Pass the top cover thread under the presser
foot, from left to right, as shown in theillustration A, and then lower the presser foot.

1

3



3


F



4

8. Turn the handwheel counterclockwise 2 to 3
times to check that the top cover thread forms
stitches.
3
4



6

5

NOTE:
When using thick thread, such as decorative
thread, as the top cover thread, run the thread asshown in the illustration.

A
8

0
A

20

7

9
Do not run the thread through A.

Chapter 5
TYPE OF STITCHES COMPARISON CHART
Type ofstitchNumberNumberof needles of threads

Thread tension dialLeftneedleCenterneedleRightneedleModel

Top coverthread*LooperthreadStitchCoverstitchTop coverstitch

Triplecover
stitch

3

4

2-5

2-5

2-5

2-5





Cover
stitch(Wide)

2

3

3-5

-

3-5

2-5





Cover
stitch(Narrow)

2

3

-

3-5

3-5

2-5





Chain
stitch

1

2

-

2-5

-

2-5





Triple top
cover
stitch

3

5

3-5

3-5

3-5

3-5

3-5



Top coverstitch(Wide)

2

4

3-5

-

3-5

3-5

3-5



Top coverstitch(Narrow)

2

4

-

3-5

3-5

3-5

3-5



* Top cover stitch model only.

NOTE:
The thread tension dial settings listed above are based on a stitch length of 3 and a differential feed ratio of 1.0.
Since the settings may differ depending on the types of fabric and thread used, be sure to check the threadtension.

 Triple cover stitch

Balanced tension
The needle thread sews a straight seam on thesurface of the fabric, and the looper thread forms
loops on the back.
Stitching direction

Needle thread is too loose.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a higher
number to increase the tension, or turn the looper
thread tension dial to a lower number to decrease thetension.

Needle thread is too tight.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a lower number
to decrease the tension, or turn the looper threadtension dial to a higher number to increase thetension.

21

 Cover stitch (Wide/Narrow)

Balanced tension
The needle thread sews a straight seam on thesurface of the fabric, and the looper thread forms
loops on the back.
Stitching direction

Needle thread is too loose.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a higher
number to increase the tension, or turn the looper
thread tension dial to a lower number to decrease thetension.

Needle thread is too tight.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a lower number
to decrease the tension, or turn the looper threadtension dial to a higher number to increase thetension.

 Chain stitch

Balanced tension
The needle thread sews a straight seam on thesurface of the fabric, and the looper thread forms
loops on the back.
Stitching direction

Needle thread is too loose.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a higher
number to increase the tension, or turn the looper
thread tension dial to a lower number to decrease thetension.

Needle thread is too tight.
Turn the needle thread tension dial to a lower number
to decrease the tension, or turn the looper threadtension dial to a higher number to increase thetension.

22

 Triple top cover stitch

Balanced tension
The top cover thread sews a straight seam on thesurface of the fabric, and the looper thread forms
loops on the back.
Stitching direction

Top cover thread is too loose.
Turn the top cover thread tension dial to a higher
number to increase the tension, or turn the needle
thread tension dial to a lower number to reduce thetension.

Top cover thread is too tight.
Turn the top cover thread tension dial to a lower
number to decrease the tension, or turn the needle
thread tension dial to a higher number to increase thetension.

 Top cover stitch (Wide/Narrow)

Balanced tension
The top cover thread sews a straight seam on thesurface of the fabric, and the looper thread forms
loops on the back.
Stitching direction

Top cover thread is too loose.
Turn the top cover thread tension dial to a higher
number to increase the tension, or turn the needle
thread tension dial to a lower number to reduce thetension.

Top cover thread is too tight.
Turn the top cover thread tension dial to a lower
number to decrease the tension, or turn the needle
thread tension dial to a higher number to increase thetension.

23

Chapter 6
SEWINGCAUTION

While the machine is in operation, pay special
attention to the needle location. In addition, keep
your hands away from all moving parts such as
the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may
occur.

Sewing flat fabric(for example, trial sewing)

NOTE:
When sewing stretch fabrics, adjust thedifferential feed and check that the desired
finish is achieved.

Removing the fabricfrom the machine(Cover stitch model)
1. By hand, turn the handwheel toward you until
the needle is at its highest position.

1. Raise the presser foot, and then place thefabric at the needle drop position.

2. Raise the presser foot.

2. Lower the presser foot, turn the handwheel
toward you a few times by hand, and thenlightly step on the foot controller to start sewing.

3. Slowly pull the fabric in the direction of thearrow.
NOTE:
Be sure to pull the fabric to the back.

NOTE:
When starting to sew or after changing thethread, in order for the needle thread to be on
top of the presser foot, sew with it positioned
under the presser foot when you begin sewing.
If necessary, turn the handwheel toward you a
few times by hand, and then cut the thread asshown in the illustration.

24

4. Cut the needle threads, which come out fromthe surface of the fabric.

5. Slowly pull the fabric in the direction of thearrow so that the ends of the needle threads
are pulled to the back of fabric.

Removing the fabricfrom the machine(Top cover stitch model)
1. By hand, turn the handwheel toward you until
the needle is at its highest position.

2. Raise the presser foot.

6. Cut the looper thread.
3. Slowly pull the fabric in the direction of thearrow.
NOTE:
Be sure to pull the fabric to the back.

NOTE:
We recommend using scissors to cut the looper
thread. Scissors can also be used to cut themachine threads.
7. Pull all threads at the back of the fabric.
Tie all threads together and cut.

4. Cut the needle threads, which come out fromthe surface of the fabric.

25

5. Slowly pull the fabric in the direction of thearrow so that the ends of the needle threads
are pulled to the back of fabric.

7. Use a pointed object, such as a needle, to pushin the top cover thread from the surface of thefabric, and then pull the thread at the back of
the fabric.

6. Cut the looper thread.

8. Pull all threads at the back of the fabric.
Tie all threads together and cut.

NOTE:
We recommend using scissors to cut the looper
thread. Scissors can also be used to cut themachine threads.

26

Sewing a cover stitch
1. Determine how much of the fabric will be foldedup.
2. Fold up the fabric the desired amount, and theniron it in place.
3. Use a ruler to measure, and then use afabric marker to mark the top of the fabric to
sew where the edge of the folded fabric is
positioned.

Sewing tubular garments(for example, cuffs)
 Without free-arm sewing
1. Raise the presser foot, insert the fabric asshown in the illustration, lower the presser foot,and then begin sewing.

4. Place the bottom of the presser foot onto the
top of fabric, and then check that the drawn
mark is just barely to the right of the left needle.
5. Sew exactly on the mark.
6. After sewing is finished, refer to “Removing the
fabric from the machine (Cover stitch model)”on page 24 for details on taking care of thethreads.
2. Finish sewing by overlapping about 4 cm (1-1/2inch) of the beginning and end of the stitching.

2
3

4

1

6
5

1 Fabric (surface)
2 Mark drawn with fabric marker
3 Left needle (just barely on the left side of the mark)
4 Right needle
5 Fabric
6 Needle

NOTE:
When sewing tubular garments, overlapping
the beginning and end of the stitching by about
4 cm (1-1/2 inch) will prevent the seam fromtearing.
3. Remove the fabric as explained in “Removing
the fabric from the machine (Cover stitch model)”and “Removing the fabric from the machine (Topcover stitch model)” on pages 24 and 25.

27

 With free-arm sewing
1. Remove the bed extension.

1

Stabilizing the beginning andend of stitching
To sew with the beginning and end of stitchingstabilized, finish the beginning and end of stitchingwith a 4-cm-square piece of scrap fabric as
described below.

 Beginning of stitching

1 Bed extension

2. Position the fabric, and start sewing.
(See CHAPTER 5.)

1. Raise the presser foot, and then insert thescrap fabric. Lower the presser foot, turn the
handwheel toward you a few times by hand,
and then lightly step on the foot controller tostart sewing.
2. When nearing the end of stitching for the scrap
fabric, stop the machine. Insert the fabric asshown in the illustration below, and then lightly
step on the foot controller to start sewing.

ab(1) Raise the presser foot, insert the fabric asshown in the illustration, lower the presser foot,and then begin sewing.
(2) Finish sewing by overlapping about 4 cm
(1-1/2 inch) of the beginning and end of thestitching.

1 Scrap fabric
2 Fabric

 End of stitching
1. When nearing the end of stitching for the fabric,stop sewing. Insert the scrap fabric as shown in
the illustration below, and then finish sewing.
2. Sew into the scrap fabric, stop the machine, andthen use scissors to cut the threads between
the fabrics and scrap fabrics.

28

Chapter 7
TROUBLESHOOTINGThis sewing machine is designed for trouble-free operation. However, the following chart indicates trouble
which may occur if basic adjustments are not made properly.
TroubleCause

Remedy1. Does not feed

Presser foot pressure too loose

Turn the pressure adjustment
screw clockwise to increase thepresser foot pressure.
(See page 11.)

2. Needles break

1. Needles bent, or needle tip blunt Replace with new needle.
(See page 12.)
2. Needles incorrectly installed

Install needles correctly.
(See page 12.)3. Material pulled forcibly

Do not press or pull material too
hard when sewing.

1. Improper threading

Thread correctly.
(See pages 15-18, 20.)

2. Thread tangled

Check spool pin, thread holders,etc., and remove tangled thread.

3. Thread tension too tight

Adjust the thread tension.
(See pages 11.)

4. Needles incorrectly installed

Install needles correctly.
(See page 12.)

5. Wrong needle used

Use correct needle.
130/705H recommended(See page 12.)

1. Needle bent, or needle tip blunt

Replace with new needle.
(See page 12.)

2. Needle incorrectly installed

Install needle correctly.
(See page 12.)

3. Wrong needle used

Use correct needle.
130/705H recommended(See page 12.)

4. Improper threading

Thread correctly.
(See pages 15-18, 20.)

5. Presser foot pressure too loose

Turn the pressure adjustment
screw clockwise to increase thepresser foot pressure.
(See page 11.)

5. Stitches not uniform

Thread tensions not adjusted
properly

Adjust the thread tension.
(See pages 11.)

6. Fabric puckers

1. Thread tension too tightDecrease thread tension whensewing lightweight or fine material.
(See pages 11.)

2. Improper threading or threadtangledThread correctly.
(See pages 15-18, 20.)

3. Threads break

4. Skipped stitches

29

Chapter 8
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning

CAUTION
Turn off the machine before cleaning.
Periodically clean out dust, trimmed fabric andthread with the included cleaning brush.

30

SPECIFICATIONS
Cover stitch model
Use

Fine to heavy materials

Sewing speed

Maximum 1,000 stitches per minuteStitch width

6 mm / 3 mm

Stitch length (pitch)

2 mm to 4 mm (5/64 to 5/32 inch)

Needle bar stroke

29 mm (1 1/8 inches)

Presser footFree presser typePresser foot lift

5 mm to 6 mm (3/16 to 15/64 inch)

NeedleSCHMETZ 130/705H (90/#14)

Number of needles and threads

Convertible to two/three/four threads
Convertible to one/two/three needles

Stitches

One-needle, two-thread double chain stitch
Two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Wide) (6 mm (15/64inch))
Two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Narrow) (3 mm (1/8inch))Three-needle, four-thread triple cover stitch (6 mm (15/64inch))

Machine net weight

7.6 kg

Machine dimensions

396 mm (W) × 297 mm (D) × 358 mm (H)(Approx. 16 (W) × 12 (D) × 14 (H) inches)

Needle set 130/705H

Top cover stitch model
Use

Fine to heavy materials

Sewing speed

Maximum 1,000 stitches per minuteStitch width

6 mm / 3 mm

Stitch length (pitch)

2 mm to 4 mm (5/64 to 5/32 inch)

Needle bar stroke

29 mm (1 1/8 inches)

Presser footFree presser typePresser foot lift

5 mm to 6 mm (3/16 to 15/64 inch)

NeedleSCHMETZ 130/705H (90/#14)

Number of needles and threads

Convertible to two/three/four/five threads
Convertible to one/two/three needles

Stitches

One-needle, two-thread double chain stitch
Two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Wide) (6 mm (15/64inch))
Two-needle, three-thread cover stitch (Narrow) (3 mm (1/8inch))Three-needle, four-thread triple cover stitch (6 mm (15/64inch))
Two-needle, four-thread top cover stitch (Wide) (6 mm (15/64inch))
Two-needle, four-thread top cover stitch (Narrow) (3 mm (1/8inch))Three-needle, five-thread triple top cover stitch (6 mm (15/64inch))

Machine net weight

7.6 kg

Machine dimensions

396 mm (W) × 297 mm (D) × 358 mm (H)(Approx. 16 (W) × 12 (D) × 14 (H) inches)

Needle set 130/705H

31

Please visit us at http://support.brother.com/ where you can get productsupport and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

English
884-B30/B31
Printed in Taiwan
XB3391-001