WOOLMARK SPECIFICATIONSPECIFICATION SF-1: 2016
KNITTED FABRICS
FABRICS
Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend labelling may be applied to circular and warp-knittedfabric.
Only the Woolmark logo may be applied to pile fabric.
The use of a Woolmark approved fabric does not confer the right to use the mark on later endproducts.

SPECIFICATIONS•••••Woolmark Blend labelling must not be used on pile fabrics.
Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend fabrics are the same as those for Woolmark,except where indicated.
The term ‘Blend’ used in the specification includes both Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend fabrics.
For fabrics to be used in end uses not listed in the following tables, please contact The WoolmarkCompany.
Care claim. If the fabric care claim (words or symbols) is for both ‘Dry clean’ and ‘Hand wash’, thefabric shall meet both claim requirements.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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Property

test method

All fabrics

Wool fibre content (%: minimum)155

Non-wool fibre content(%: maximum)•1
Trouser,
leggings,
suiting,fabricEnd use3
Shirts,blouses,underwear,nightwear,
next-to-skinapparel2
Costumes,
skirts,dresses,jackets,coats,
dressing gowns

Woolmark:

100%

Pure New Wool

Woolmark Blend:

50%

new wool

Wool Blend:
Woolmark Blend:30%
new wool
50% (see specification F-5)

5
Sweaters,cardigans,waistcoats

7
Pile fabric

155

NA
Wool Blend:
70% (see specification F-7)
Darker than 1/12 standard depth:Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:
Bright and pastel colours
Darker than 1/12 standard depth:Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:

Colourfastness to light
blue reference (grade: minimum)
Not applicable to fabric to be usedin underwear or nightwear

5

Surface pile weight(g/m²: minimum)

15

Cover factor(mm tex: minimum)
Plain knit semiworsted andwoollen spun fabric only

169

1.0

DCM extract (%: maximum)
woollen fabrics only

136

1.5

Colourfastness to rubbing – dry
Stain (grade: minimum)

165

3–4

Burst strength(kPa: minimum)

29

4
3
3
2–3

-400

325

220

325
250 (fine gaugeapparel)

325

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155
The wool content of Woolmark labelled fabrics is described in by specifications F-1 to F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend labelled fabrics is described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend labelled fabrics is described in Specification F-7.
All pile products must have a pure wool pile but the backing material may be manufactured of analternative material.
2. Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to lighta. For fabrics sold in Australia and South Africa, colourfastness to light blue reference grade 5
is required for shades darker than 1/3 standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3
and 1/12 standard depth.
b. Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluatedc. Naturally coloured wool
Such wools may exhibit poor colourfastness to light but the product may carry the Woolmark
or Woolmark Blend if the following text (or similar) is used on the ticket: ‘It is an inherent
feature of some naturally coloured wools that the colour may fade’.
d. Bright and pastel colours
Only the specific shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card - Bright &pastel colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No othershades will be classed as bright or pastel shades without prior approval by the Woolmark
Management Group.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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3. Woolmark TM15: Surface pile weightThis test is conducted only on sliver knit or other pile fabrics.
4. Woolmark TM169: Cover factor
This criterion only applies to semi-worsted and woollen spun plain knitted fabrics.
Definitions:a. Plain knit: the stocking stitch or ‘Jersey’ like fabric (simplest knitted structure).
b. Semi-worsted spun: yarns made from sliver produced by carding and gilling, in which thecarded sliver has not been condensed or combed.
5. Woolmark TM136: DCM Extractable Matter
This test is only conducted on woollen-spun fabrics.
Fabrics treated with a fluorocarbon finish or machine washable fabrics that have been processedwith shrink-resist polymer treatments (from solvent) may give results greater than the permitted
maximum since these additives may be removed in addition to any oils or softeners present. In
these cases, a figure greater than the maximum may be allowed, provided that the sample meets
all other requirements. Such cases must be referred to the Woolmark Management Group.
6. Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
This test is not conducted on fabric where the depth of shade is less than 1/12 standard depth.
7. Woolmark TM29: Burst strength
This requirement is applicable only to plain knitted fabrics. Fine gauge knitted fabric for next-toskin use (including underwear) may have a minimum burst strength of 250kPa.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICSPage 3 of 8

Property

Dimensional stability (%)
Number of cycles
Colourfastness to waterchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain cotton (grade: minimum)
For blend fabrics
stain other fibre: worst fibre(grade: minimum)•

Test method

Fabrics with a ‘Dry clean only’ care claim

1
Trouser
leggings
suitingfabricFabric type2
3
Costumes,
skirts,Shirts,dresses,blouses,jackets,underwear,coats,nightwear
dressing
gowns

7Pile fabric–5 < DC–8 < DC (area)

ISO3175

3 x Normal

3–4
3363NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. ISO3175: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage in both length and width must not be greater than 5%.
–8 < DC (area) indicates that the area shrinkage must not be greater than 5%.
In the event that ISO 3175 Normal cycle testing is not available, three commercial dry clean
cycles is a suitable alternative.
2. Woolmark TM6: Colourfastness to water
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric. This fibre
should be indicated in the test report.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Hand wash’ or ‘Hand wash or dry clean’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengtharea
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
width
lengtharea
Colourfastness to hand washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
For blend fabrics
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
For blend fabrics
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)•

Test method

Fabric type

31

31

31

1Trousers
leggings

2
Skirts,dresses,jackets,coats,dressinggowns

3

4

Shirts,blouses,underwear,nightwear

Pile fabric––––

DC < +5–10 < DC––

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A–––––––––8 < DC

–––

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 5A

1 × 7ADC < +5–5 < DC–

DC < +5–5 < DC––––––3
–250

174

3–4
4

3–4
4

3–4

NA

3–4
4

3–4
4

3–4

NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage in both length and width must not be greater than 5%.
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not be greater than 5%.
2. Woolmark TM-250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained synthetic fibre in the adjacent fabric.
3. Woolmark TWC-TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
This test is only applied to multi-coloured fabrics.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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Test methodFabrics with a ‘Machine wash’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengtharea

31

No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengtharea

31

No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
widthlengtharea

31

Colourfastness to machine washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade: minimum)

193

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade: minimum)•

1

Trousers,leggings

Fabric type2
3
Skirts,dresses,Shirts,
jackets,
blouses,coats,
underwear,
dressingnightwear
gowns

4

Pile fabric––––––DC < +5–10 < DC––––

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A––––––––– 8 < DC–––3 × 5A

3 × 5A5 × 5A

3 × 5A

DC < +5–5 < DC–

DC < +5–5 < DC––––––3 < DC–174

3–4
4
3–4

3–4
4
3–4

3–4
4
3–4

3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage in both length and width must not be greater than 5%.
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not be greater than 5%.
2. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If fabrics fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry an advisory
statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these
additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
This test is only applied to multi-coloured fabrics.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ or ‘Total Easy Care’ claim

Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash and dry cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengtharea
No. and type of wash and dry cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
width
lengtharea
Colourfastness to machine washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade:minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade:minimum)

Test method

Fabric type31/ 254

31/ 254

31/ 25412

3

4

Trousers,
leggings

Skirts,dresses,
jackets,
coats,dressing,gowns

Shirts,blouses,
underwear,nightwear

Pile fabric––
1 × [7A + TD]––
1 × [7A + TD]

DC < +5–10 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]––
1 × [7A + TD]–––
5 × [5A + TD]–––
5 × [5A + TD]–––8 < DC
5 × [5A + TD]–––
5 × [5A + TD]

DC < +5– 5 < DCDC < +5– 5 < DC–––
–3 < DC

3–4
4
3–4

193

3–4
4

174

3–4

After wash appearance(grade: minimum)

31–3* TD = tumble dry
5A/TD – a 5A wash followed by a tumble dry
7A/TD – a 7A wash followed by a tumble dry•This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.
NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage in both length and width must not be greater than 5%.
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not be greater than 5%.
After wash and dry appearance
Tumble drying can have an adverse effect on fabric appearance.
This specification requires that Woolmark TWC-TM298 be carried out. This test method includes
a subjective assessment after 1 × 7A + 1 × TD and 2 x (1 × 5A + 1 × TD) cycles.
2. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
If fabrics fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed to prevent
problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing detergent
be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry an advisory
statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these
additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
This test is only applied to multi-coloured fabrics.
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

Page 7 of 8TEST AND REPORT CRITERIA
All samples must be tested using the test methods listed below, however there is no pass or fail criteria
for the properties tested. The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate method and report theresult to the customer.
When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice or assistance to the licensee to improve
the performance of the fabric under normal commercial arrangements for consultancies.
The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be subject to agreement between the fabricmanufacturer and the customer. The Woolmark Company shall not act to arbitrate between the twoparties on such issues.
1. Woolmark TM13 Mass per unit area
This measurement must be made on all fabrics
2. Woolmark TM276 Spirality
This requirement is applicable only to plain knitted fabrics. A maximum of 5degrees isrecommended but is not mandatory.
3. Woolmark TM152: Indication of Pilling Propensity
Testing must be carried out and the results reported. Due to the many factors affecting pilling, there
is no universally accepted test method that accurately predicts the likely propensity of a fabric to pill
during use. However, fabrics must be tested according to Woolmark TWC-TM152.
Pilling in wear is a highly variable process. The same fabric worn by different people under similar
circumstances may pill quite differently. Further differences exist between consumers in theirperception of what is unacceptable. The Woolmark Company pilling test is a simple method thatindicates the propensity to pilling for most knitted fabrics, although it may not always give a truecomparative indication of differences between fabrics because pilling is assessed after a fixedtime interval.
Pilling is a dynamic property and the rate of pilling can often change according to time and wear.
Some of the most important factors influencing the pilling propensity are:• fibre diameter• fibre length• twist level• fabric construction.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-1 KNITTED FABRICS

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