WOOLMARK
SPECIFICATIONWOOL-CONTAINING
FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

SPECIFICATION FW-1
Effective 1 July 2021

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATIONSPECIFICATION FW-1: 2021
WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
The Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend logo may be applied to the following wool-containing
components of footwear products provided they meet the requirements of this specification:•Upper (defined as the visible outer part of the shoe)•Lining (defined as the inside of the shoe)•Insock (defined as the cover for the insole)A ‘wool-containing component’ is defined as a material used in the footwear products which can beknitted or woven. The fibre content of the material can be wool or wool blends.
Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend products are the same as those for Woolmark,except where indicated.
Care claim
Only products with care claim “Non-washable”, “Hand washable” and “Machine washable” canbe licensed by this specification. Testing and approval or rejection of products with care claim
not listed in this specification will be arranged by the Woolmark Management Group.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

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MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS (ALL COMPONENTS IRRESPECTIVE OF CARE CLAIM)

Property

Test Method

Upper

Wool content (%: minimum)

155

Woolmark:
Woolmark Blend:
Wool Blend:Colourfastness to rubbing - dry
Stain (grade: minimum)
Components darker than 1/12 standard depth
only

165

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to water
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to lightBlue reference (grade: minimum)
Darker than 1/12 standard depth:Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:
Bright and pastel colours:
Darker than 1/12 standard depth:Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:
Colourfastness to migration to PVC
Stain (grade: minimum)

Lining

Insock

100% (see Specification F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4)
50% (see Specification F-5)
30% (see Specification F-7)

33
3
3

174

3-4
3
3

6

4
3

––––

3
2–3

––––

ISO 105-X10

4––ISO 17694

No visible damage––

Burst strength(kPa: minimum)
Knitted components only

29400400–

Tensile strength
Warp and weft directions(N/mm: minimum)
Woven components only

ISO 17706

10––

Flexing resistance
Dry: 100000 cycles
Wet: 20000 cycles•5This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark products is described in Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 and F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend products is described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend products is described in Specification F-7.
2.

Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
Testing required for shades heavier than 1/12 standard depth.

3.

Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.

4.

Woolmark TM6: Colourfastness to water
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained synthetic fibre in the adjacent fabric.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

Page 2 of 65.

Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to light
5.1 Undyed and bleached white products
Products of this type must not be evaluated.
5.2 Bright and pastel colours
Only the specific shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card - Bright & Pastel
Colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No other shades will beclassed as bright or pastel shades without prior approval by the Woolmark Management Group.

6.

ISO 105-X10: Colourfastness to migration to PVC
The latest version of ISO standard shall be used.

7.

ISO 17694: Flexing resistance
The latest version of ISO standard shall be used.
Also determine dimensional change of test specimens for both dry and wet conditions after flexing.
Data are reported for reference purpose.

8.

Woolmark TM29: Burst strength
Applied to knitted wool-containing upper and lining only.

9.

ISO 17706: Tensile strength
Applied to woven wool-containing upper only.
The latest version of ISO standard shall be used.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS FOR HAND WASHABLE PRODUCTS
Property
Colourfastness to hand washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Washability of Footwear

Test Method

250

3131

Stick length
Toe spring
Appearance

31

Colour change of shoe (grade: minimum)
Colour staining onto multi-fibre fabric (grade:minimum)
No. and type of wash cycles•UpperLining

Insock333Fabric–10 < DC–10 < DC
1 ´ 7A
Fabric–10 < DC
–10 < DC1 ´ 5A
Whole shoe
The change in stick length after washing must not be more than
0.5 cm than its original length.
The change in toe spring after washing must not be more than
0.2 cm than its original height.
Removable footbed must be able to refit into the shoes after
each wash cycle.
No significant defect should be found.
3
31 ´ 7A + 1 ´ 5AThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES1.

Woolmark TM250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.

2.

Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability
This test is applicable when the wool-containing component can be supplied in fabric form.
–10 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 10%.

3.

Woolmark TM31: Washability of footwear
The whole shoe shall be subjected to test.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS FOR MACHINE WASHABLE PRODUCTS
PropertyColourfastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthNo. and type of wash cycles

Test Method

193

31

31

Washability of Footwear
Stick length
Toe spring
Appearance

31

Colour change of shoe (grade: minimum)
Colour staining onto multi-fibre fabric (grade:minimum)
No. and type of wash cycles•UpperLiningInsock333
Fabric–10 < DC–10 < DC
1 ´ 7AFabric–10 < DC–10 < DC5 ´ 5AWhole shoe
The change in stick length after washing must not be more than
1.0 cm than its original length.
The change in toe spring after washing must not be more than
0.5 cm than its original height.
Removable footbed must be able to refit into the shoes after
each wash cycle.
No significant defect should be found.
33
1 ´ 7A + 5 ´ 5AThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1.

Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products pass Part A but fail Part B, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of footwear should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to footwear must carry an advisory
statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these
additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.

2.

Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability
This test is applicable when the wool-containing component can be supplied in fabric form.
–10 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 10%.

3.

Woolmark TM31: Washability of footwear
The whole shoe shall be subjected to test.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

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TEST AND REPORT CRITERIA
All samples must be tested using the test methods listed below, however there is no pass or fail criteria
for the properties tested. The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate method and report theresult to the customer.
The failure of the product to meet the guideline performance level must be highlighted in the report to thelicensee. When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice or assistance to the licensee toimprove the performance of the product under normal commercial arrangements for consultancies.
The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be subject to agreement between the fabricmanufacturer and the customer. The Woolmark Company shall not act to arbitrate between the twoparties on such issues.
Property
Abrasion resistance
Dry: 12,800 cycles
Wet: 6,400 cycles
Weight loss
(gram: maximum)
Dry: 12,800 cycles
Wet: 6,400 cycles

Test Method

Guideline performance level
Upper
Not worse than moderate wear

BS EN 13520
0.060
0.100NOTES
1. BS EN 13520: Abrasion resistance
Testing must be carried out on the upper fabric and the results are reported. This specification is
not applicable to lining and insock.
The abrasion resistance of fabrics is related to many factors (e.g. fibre fineness, yarn count, yarntype, weave) and it is difficult to correlate the abrasion conditions of a fabric during wear with test
results because of the many facets of abrasion. An individual test can provide only a comparison
with previous experience with a particular fabric rather than an exact prediction of the wear life ofa fabric. However, fabrics must be tested according to BS EN 13520 and it is advised that theguideline performance given in the preceding table be achieved.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
FW-1 WOOL-CONTAINING FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS

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