WOOLMARK SPECIFICATIONSPECIFICATION SF-2: 2016

FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVENAND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

FABRICS
Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend labelling may be applied to woven fabric:
Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend labelling must not be applied to:• pile garment shells• pressed felt fabrics.
The use of a Woolmark approved fabric does not confer the right to use the mark on later endproducts.

SPECIFICATIONS••••

Woolmark Blend labelling must not be used on pressed felt (ie fabric produced directly fromfibres and not by felting woven or knitted fabric) or pile garment shells.
Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend fabrics are the same as those for Woolmark,except where indicated.
The term ‘Blend’ used in this specification includes both Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend.
If the fabric care claim (words or symbols) is for both ‘Dry clean’ and ‘Hand wash’, the fabric shallmeet both claim requirements.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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All fabrics
Woven pilefabricsProperty

Wool fibre content (%: minimum)

Non-wool fibre content(%: maximum)

Surface pile weight(g/m2: minimum)
Tensile strength (N: minimum)

Colourfastness to light:
Blue reference (grade: minimum)

Colourfastness to rubbing: dry
Stain (grade: minimum)•

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics

155

1

Suits
trousers

Fabric type2
3
Coats,
jackets,
costumes,
skirts,Shirts,dresses,blouses,
kimonos,nightwear
dressing
gowns,
accessories

Woolmark

100%

Pure New Wool

Woolmark Blend

50%

new wool

Wool Blend

30%

new wool

Woolmark Blend

50%Specification F-5

Wool Blend

70%

Specification F-74GarmentshellNA155

NA154

5220
196(>150g/m²)
98
147
177(<150g/m²)
Darker than 1/12 standard depthLighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth
Bright and pastel colours
Darker than 1/12 standard depthLighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth

165

NA4
33
2–3

3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark labelled fabrics is fully described in by specifications F-1 to F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend labelled fabrics is fully described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend labelled fabrics is fully described in Specification F-7.
All pile fabrics must have a pure wool pile but the backing material may be manufactured of analternative material.
2.

Woolmark TM15: Surface pile weightThis property is only measured on pile fabrics

3.

Woolmark TM04: Tensile strength
Both the warp and weft directions must meet the specification.
Tensile strength measurements are not required for fabric manufactured to accessories.

4. Woolmark TWC-TM5: Colourfastness to light•Undyed and bleached white fabric must not be evaluated.
•For fabrics sold in Australia and South Africa, colourfastness to light, blue reference grade 5
is required for shades darker than 1/3 standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3
and 1/12 standard depth.
•Naturally coloured wool
Such wools may exhibit poor colour fastness to light, however, the fabric may carry theWoolmark or Woolmark Blend providing the following text (or similar) is used on the ticket: ‘It
is an inherent feature of some naturally coloured wools that the colour may fade’.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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Bright and pastel colours
Only the specific shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card; bright andpastel colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No othershades will be classed as bright or pastel shades without prior approval by the Woolmark
Management Group.
Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
This test is not required on fabrics lighter in shade that 1/12 standard depth.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Dry clean only’ care claim
Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics

Dimensional change (%)
number of cycles
Colourfastness to waterchange of colour (minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain cotton (grade: minimum)

ISO3175

6

3–4
33

Test method

Property

Fabric type23Coats,
jackets,
costumes,
skirts,
Shirts,dresses,
blouses,kimonos,nightwear
dressinggowns,
accessories–3% < DC < 3% in warp and weft
3 Normal

1Suitstrousers

Woven pilefabrics
4Garment shell

For blend fabrics only
Stain other fibre (minimum)•3NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. ISO 3175: Dimensional stability to dry cleaning
In the event that equipment for ISO 3175 Normal cycle testing is not available, threecommercial dry clean cycles are a suitable alternative.
For all dimensional stability testing, ‘shrinkage’ is denoted by a negative (–) value and an‘extension’ by a positive (+) value.
–3% < DC < 3% indicates that the shrinkage must be less than –3% and the extension mustbe less than +3%.
2. Woolmark TWC-TM6: Colourfastness to water
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Hand wash’ or ‘Hand wash or dry clean’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlength
No and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengthdifferential cuff edge felting
No and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
width
lengthColourfastness to hand washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)•

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics

31

31

31

250

174

1

Suits,
trousers

Fabric type2
3
Coats,
jackets,costumes,skirts,Shirts,dresses,blouses,
kimonos,nightwear
dressinggowns,
accessories

Woven pilefabrics
4Garmentshell–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 5A–––1 < DC < +1
1 x 7A–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC

3–4
4
3–4 (blend fabrics only)
Multi–coloured fabrics only
3–44NA

3–4 (blend fabrics only)

NAThis table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability-3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the fabric in washing must not exceed 3%.
-1 < DC < +1 extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
2. Woolmark TWC TM-250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Undyed and bleached white fabrics are not to be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Applied to multi-coloured fabric only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Machine wash’ care claim

Property

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash cycles

31

Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengthdifferential cuff edge felting
No. and type of wash cycles

31

Dimensional change – total (%)
width
lengthColourfastness to machine washchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

•

31

193

174

1
Suits,
trousers

Fabric type2
3
Coats,
Shirts,jackets,blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressing
gowns,
accessories

Woven pilefabrics
4
Garment shell–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC

–3 < DC–3 < DC

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A––1 < DC < +1–––1 < DC < +1––
–1 < DC < +1––
–1 < DC < +1

3 × 5A

3 × 5A5 × 5A

3 × 5A–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC

3–4
4
3–4
Multi-coloured fabrics only
3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–3 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the fabric in washing must not exceed 3%.
–1 < DC < +1 indicates extension must not exceed 1% and shrinkage must not exceed 1%.
For fabrics designed for accessories (hats, shawls, scarves, gloves or ties) only 1×7A plus
1×5A wash cycles are required.
2. Woolmark TM193: Fastness to machine washing
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A standard detergent without perborate
Part B standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If fabrics fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry anadvisory statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details ofthese additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Specification applies to multi-coloured fabrics only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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Fabrics with a ‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash /dry cycles
Dimensional change– felting (%)
width
lengthdifferential cuff edge
No. and type of wash/dry cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
width
lengthColourfastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)Colour fastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)•

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics

3131

31

193

174

1Suits,trousers

Fabric type2
3Coats,jackets,
costumes,skirts,Shirts,dresses,
blouses,kimonos,nightwear
dressinggowns,
accessories

Woven pilefabrics
4

Garmentshell–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC
1 × [7A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–––1 < DC < +1
5 × [5A + TD]–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC–3 < DC

3–4
4
3–4
Multi-coloured fabrics only
3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TWC-TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white fabric must not be evaluated
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If fabrics fail Part B but pass Part A, additional labelling requirements must be observed toprevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleach containing
detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry anadvisory statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details ofthese additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
Undyed and bleached white fabrics must not be evaluated
2. Woolmark TWC-TM31: After wash and dry appearance
Assessment to be carried out following ironing.
In addition to the fabric-related appearance retention criteria, the fabric must not exhibit
problems related to garment trim which are likely to lead to consumer complaint (eg no colour
bleeding from waist band trim, zip must function, button must not be loose, belt loops mustnot become detached or distorted).
3. Woolmark TWC- TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Undyed and bleached white fabric must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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TEST AND REPORT CRITERIA
All samples must be tested using the test methods in the following table, however there is no passor fail criteria for the properties tested. The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate methodand report the result to the customer.
The failure of the fabric to meet the guideline performance level must be highlighted to the licensee
by the Key Account Manager. When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice orassistance to the licensee to improve the performance of the fabric under normal commercialarrangements for consultancies. The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be
subject to agreement between the fabric manufacturer and the customer. The Woolmark
Company shall not act to arbitrate between the two parties on such issues.
Woolmark TM13 Mass per unit area
This measurement must be made on all fabrics
Woolmark TWC-TM112: Abrasion
Testing must be carried out and the results reported.
The abrasion resistance of fabrics is related to many factors (e.g. fibre fineness, yarn count, yarntype, weave, etc) and it is difficult to correlate the abrasion conditions of a fabric during wear withtest results because of the many facets of abrasion. An individual test can provide only acomparison with previous experience with a particular fabric rather than an exact prediction of thewear life of a fabric. However, fabrics must be tested according to Woolmark TWC-TM112 and it
is advised that the guideline performance given in the following table be achieved.

Property••

Test method

Flat woven or pressed felt fabrics
1Suits,trousers

Abrasion (‘000 rubs: minimum)

112

20

Seam slippage (mm opening: maximum)

117

6

Pilling: indication of propensity

196

3–4

Woven pilefabrics

Guideline Performance level2
3
Coats,
Shirts,jackets,
blouses,
costumes,nightwear
skirts,dresses,kimonos,
dressinggowns,
accessories
10
15
10

4Garmentshells10610This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.
Not applicable to accessories.

1. Woolmark TWC-TM117: Seam slippage
Testing must be carried out and the results reported.
It is recognised that seam slippage can be reduced by special seaming techniques but
fabrics must be tested according to Woolmark TWC-TM117 and it is advised that the guideline
performance given in the preceding table be achieved.
2. Woolmark TWC-TM196: Indication of pilling propensity
Testing must be carried out and the results reported.
Due to the many factors affecting pilling there is no universally accepted test method that
accurately predicts the likely propensity of a fabric to pill during use. However, fabrics must betested according to Woolmark TWC-TM196.
COMMENTS:
Pilling in wear is a highly variable process. The same fabric worn by different people
under similar circumstances may pill quite differently. Further differences exist between
consumers in their perception of what is unacceptable. The Woolmark Company pilling
test is a simple method that indicates the propensity to pilling for most fabrics, although
it may not always give a true comparative indication of differences between fabrics
because pilling is assessed after a fixed time interval. Pilling is a dynamic property andWOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

Page 8 of 9the rate of pilling can often change according to time and wear. Some of the mostimportant factors influencing pilling propensity are:• fibre diameter
fibre length• twist level
fabric construction.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SF-2 FLAT WOVEN, PILE WOVEN AND PRESSED FELT APPAREL FABRICS

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