Woolmark Specification
SPECIFICATION AF-1: 2016
WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelling may be applied to products provided they meet therequirements of this specification.
•Filling layer of wool, or wool blended with other fibre
These products shall have a filling layer between outer cover fabrics. The cover fabrics may be ofwool or another fibre.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS (ALL PRODUCTS IRRESPECTIVE OF CARE CLAIM)
Property

Test
methodWoolmarkWool content of filling, layer

Pass level
Pure New Wool

Woolmark Blend
Fibre content of filling or layer(s)Wool fibre content: minimum (%)
Non-wool fibre content: maximum (%)

155

Weight of filling or layer (g/m²: minimum)

1350

DCM extractable matter of wool in filling (%: maximum)

136

1.0

IWTO 19

0.7

Migration of fibre from the filling through the shell fabric

266

Pass

Entanglement and felting (grade)(after 1 × 7A cycle)

274

Not worse than 3–4

Vegetable matter in wool in filling (%: maximum)•50% New Wool
50%All tables must also be read in conjunction with the notes that followNOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark products is fully described in Specifications F-1 to F-4.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend products is fully described in Specification F-5.
2. Woolmark TM13: Weight of filling or layer
No further comment
3. Woolmark TM136: DCM extractable matterIn the case of Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend products containing polyester, the solvent usedshould be methanol because dichloromethane will give an incorrect (high) result due to extractionof low molecular weight polymer from the polyester.
4. IWTO-19
Use the latest version of IWTO test method
5. Woolmark TM266: Fibre migration
It is advised that a fibre migration test should be carried out on finished products.
In general, high bulk wools give greater resistance to migration; however, the finer the fibre,
irrespective of bulk, the more likely it is to migrate. Blends of wool containing kemp (fullymedullated) or very coarse fibre should be avoided.
6. Woolmark TM274: Entanglement and Felting
This test is applied to knop-filled products only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL MANDATORY REQUIREMENT FOR DRY CLEAN ONLY PRODUCTS
CARE CLAIM: DRY CLEAN ONLY.
Property

Test method

Pass level

Total dimensional change (% maximum)
Number and type of cycles:
3 × ISO3175 Normal or CDT

ISO3175
normalAppearance after 3 dry clean cycles: filling•WidthLength–5 < DC–5 < DC

Acceptable

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Test procedureThree dry clean cycles according to ISO 3175 Normal or equivalent commercial dry clean test(CDT). If a sample of the product is used in the test, the dimensions of suitable markings on thespecimen may be used to assess dimensional change in length and width.
–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage should not be greater than 5%.
2. Appearance after dry clean‘Acceptable’ indicates a minimal level of fibre clumping, felting and consolidation after drycleaning. In assessing the acceptability of a product for a dry clean only claim, the appearance ofthe filling before and after the specified cleaning or washing cycles will be considered.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS FOR HAND WASHABLE PRODUCTS
CARE CLAIM: Hand wash – flat dry or hand wash – line dry
Property

Test method

Relaxation dimensional change (%: maximum)
1 × 7A cycle

31

Felting dimensional change (%: maximum)
1 × 7A cycle

Pass level
Width
Length–4 < DC–4 < DC

31

Width
Length–5 < DC–5 < DC

Total dimensional change (%: maximum)

31

Width
Length–6 < DC–6 < DC

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)

174

44

Colourfastness to hand washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)

250

3–4
4

After wash appearance of filling2 × 7A cycles–Acceptable•All tables must also be read in conjunction with the notes that follow

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage should not be greater than 5%.
If a sample of the product is used in the test, the dimensions of suitable markings on the specimen
may be used to assess dimensional change in length and width.
2. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkali
This test applies to coloured filling material only.
3. Woolmark TM250: Colourfastness to hand washingThis test applies to coloured filling material only.
4. After wash appearance
Acceptable indicates a minimal level of fibre clumping, felting and consolidation after washing. In
assessing the acceptability of a product for hand wash claim, the appearance of the filling before
and after the specified cleaning or washing cycles will be considered.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS FOR MACHINE WASHABLE PRODUCTS.
CARE CLAIM: machine wash – flat dry or machine wash – line dry
Property

Test method

Pass level

Relaxation dimensional change %: (maximum)1 x 7A cycle

31

Width
Length–4 < DC–4 < DC

Felting dimensional change (%: maximum)1 x 5A cycle

31

WidthLength–5 < DC–5 < DC

Total dimensional change (%: maximum)

31

Width
Length–6 < DC–6 < DC

Colour fastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (main non-wool fibre in blend)174

Colour fastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre (main non-wool fibre in blend)
After wash appearance of filling(1 × 7A + 1 × 5A cycle)
Products other than knop filled

•

3–4
4
3–4

193

3–4
4
3–4

–

Acceptable

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage should not be greater than 5%.
If a sample of the product is used in the test, the dimensions of suitable markings on the specimen
may be used to assess dimensional change in length and width.
2. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkali
This test applies to coloured filling material only.
3. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products pass according to part A but fail part B, additional labelling requirements must beobserved to prevent problems that could arise during the washing of garments should a bleachcontaining detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carryan advisory statement: ‘Wash using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details ofthese additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
4. After wash appearance‘Acceptable’ indicates a minimal level of fibre clumping, felting and consolidation after washing. Inassessing the acceptability of a product for machine wash claim, the appearance of the filling
before and after the specified cleaning or washing cycles will be considered.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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ADDITIONAL NOTES
1.

TUMBLE DRY AS PART OF THE MACHINE WASHABLE CARE CLAIM
Any product to be labelled ‘Tumble dry’ must be sent to the Woolmark Management Group, whowill submit the product to the designated Woolmark laboratory for testing and assessment ofcompliance to the appropriate specification. The product must be tumble dried after each washcycle (7A or 5A) required under the claim machine washable.
In assessing the acceptability of a product, the appearance before and after the washing anddrying cycle will be considered.

2.

APPEARANCE RETENTION AFTER USE
Felting can occur during use (in addition to that during cleansing). It is essential that all products
exhibit an acceptable degree of appearance retention during use, irrespective of care claim.
To achieve satisfactory appearance after use, it may be necessary to use shrink-resist treatedwools.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
AF-1 WOOL-FILLED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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