SPECIFICATION SY-1: 2016YARNS
PRODUCTS
Woolmark, Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend labelling may be applied to yarns for the following
product categories:• weaving (Apparel and Interior Textile products)• machine knitting (Apparel and Interior Textile products)• hand knitting.
Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelling may be applied to bedding yarn.
Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelling may be applied to yarns for the following productcategories:• wall-to-wall carpets (including tiles)• rugs and squares.
SUB-BRAND QUALIFICATION
Requirements for specific sub-brand programs are given in the appropriate additional specification.
Yarn sold as suitable for use in a particular sub-brand end product shall be accompanied by thefollowing statement:This yarn, when woven or knitted and finished following appropriate processes, is suitable foruse in the manufacture of (include the relevant sub-brand description) garments.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 1 of 12

SPECIFICATIONS
All requirements are mandatory
Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend labelled yarns are the same as those for Woolmark, except
where indicated.

A.

APPAREL YARNS – WEAVING AND KNITTING INCLUDING
HAND KNITTING

Property

Test method

Pass level

Wool content(%: minimum)

155

Woolmark
Woolmark Blend
Wool Blend

Pure New Wool
50% new wool
30% new wool

Non-wool fibre content(%: maximum)

155

Woolmark Blend
Wool Blend

50%
70%

Colourfastness to rubbing – dry stain (grade:minimum)

165

Colourfastness to light
blue reference (grade: minimum)

5

3–4
Greater than 1/12 standard depth: 4Less than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth: 3
Bright and pastel colours
Darker than 1/12 standard depth: 3
Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth: 2–3

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool Content
Woolmark labelling see Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 or F-4, as appropriate.
Woolmark Blend labelling see Specification F-5
Wool Blend labelling see Specification F-7
Decorative fibre
A percentage of non-wool fibre may be included in Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelled yarn
for purely decorative effect.
2. Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to light
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
For products sold in Australia and South Africa, grade 5 is required for shades darker than 1/3
standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3 and 1/12 standard depth.
Bright and pastel colours
Only the shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card, bright and pastel
colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No other shades shall beclassed as bright or pastel without prior reference to the Woolmark Management Group.
3. Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
Only applicable to dyed yarn greater than 1/12 standard depth. If the depth of shade is in doubt,
the test must be conducted.
4. Woollen spun yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before
testing to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 2 of 12

Yarns with a ‘Dry clean’ care claim
Property
Colourfastness to waterchange colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain cotton (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method

6

Pass level
3–4
3
3
3 (for blend only)

NOTES
1. Care Claim
If the product care claim (words or symbols) is for both ‘Dry clean’ and ‘Hand wash’, the productshall meet both claim requirements
2. Woolmark TM6: Colourfastness to water
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
3. Woollen Spun Yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before
testing to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 3 of 12

Yarns with a ‘Hand wash’ care claim
Property
Colourfastness to hand washchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method
250

174

Pass level
3–4
4
3–4 (for blend only)
3–4
4
3–4 (for blend only)

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
2. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.

Property

Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengtharea
No. and type of wash cycles

Test method

3. Woollen spun yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before
testing to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.

31

Pass level
Hand and machine knitting yarn
Sweaters,
Socks,
Trousers,
cardigans,stockings,
leggings,
waistcoats,tights,skirts,accessories
underwear,
dresses,shirts,jackets,
blouses,coats,
nightwear,
dressinggowns
DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
1 × 7A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
1 × 7A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
1 × 7A

Weaving yarns
All products,
Shirts,exceptblouses,shirts,nightwear
blouses,nightwear

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
1 × 7A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
1 × 7A

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31
The felting cycle shall be preceded by a 1 × 7A relaxation cycle (see TM31):–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage must be less than 5%
DC < 5 indicates that the extension in washing must be less than 5%
Dimensional change felting is calculated on the relaxed dimensions as shown in TM31.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 4 of 12

Yarns with a ‘Machine wash’ care claim
Property
Colourfastness to machine washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method

Pass level

193

3–4
4
3–4

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

3–4
4
3–4

174

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
2. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.

Property

Dimension change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width
lengtharea
No. and type of wash cycles

Test method

3. Woollen spun yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before
testing to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.
Pass level
Hand and machine knitting yarn
Sweaters,
Socks,
Trousers,
cardigans,stockings,
leggings,
waistcoats,tights,skirts,accessories
underwear,
dresses,shirts,jackets,
blouses,coats,
nightwear
dressinggowns

Weaving yarns
All products,
Shirts,except shirts,
blouses,
blouses,nightwearnightwear––
1 × 7A

––
1 × 7A

––
1 × 7A

––
1 × 7A

––
1 × 7A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
2 × 5A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC5 × 5ADC +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
3 × 5A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
3 × 5A

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC5 × 5A

31

NOTES
1. Machine washability shall not be claimed for Woolmark yarn unless the wool has undergone ashrink-resist treatment.
2. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional Stability–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage must be less than 5%.
DC < 5 indicates that the extension in washing must be less than 5%.
3. Assessment
All yarns with a machine wash care claim shall be knitted up and finished as specified in
Woolmark TWC-TM31 before assessment of care claim. The measurements shall be based on
the relaxed specimen (i.e. following 1 x 7A cycle).
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 5 of 12

LABELLING OF MACHINE-WASHABLE HAND KNITTING YARN
Instructions on label or ball band
The following note (or similar) shall be included on the label or ball band:2‘It is strongly recommended that a test panel (about 10cm in a stocking stitch) be knitted andwashed to check the tension before commencing knitting of the actual garment.’
The appropriate needle size for a yarn shall be recommended.
Drying instructions shall be as given below (or similar):‘Avoid line drying. Garments should be eased gently into shape and laid flat for drying.’
Shade cards
The following statement shall be included on shade cards, delivery notes and other relevant items:‘This yarn, when knitted and finished following appropriate processes, is suitable for use ingarments that will meet the Woolmark, Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend specifications formachine-wash knitwear.’

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 6 of 12

Yarn with a ‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ care claim
Property
Colourfastness to machine washingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method

Pass level

193

3–4
4
3–4

Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
change of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

3–4
4
3–4

174

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
2. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.

Property

Test method

Woollen Spun Yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before
testing to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
widthlengthNo. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
width)
lengtharea
No. and type of wash cycles

31

Pass level
Hand and machine knitting yarn
Sweaters,
Socks,
Trousers,
cardigans,stockings,
leggings,
waistcoats,tights,skirts,accessories
underwear,
dresses,shirts,jackets,
blouses,coats,
nightwear
dressinggowns

Weaving yarns
All products,
Shirts,exceptblouses,shirts,nightwear
blouses andnightwear

–
–

–
–

–
–

–
–

–
–

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]

NOTES
1.

Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ shall not be claimed for Woolmark yarn unless the wool has
undergone a shrink-resist treatment.
–5 < DC indicates that the shrinkage must be less than 5%.
DC < 5 indicates that the extension in washing must be less than 5%.

2. Assessment
All yarns with a ‘Machine wash and tumble dry’ care claim shall be knitted up and finished as
specified in Woolmark TWC-TM31 before assessment of care claim. The measurements shall bebased on the relaxed specimens (ie after 1×7A cycle plus 1 × tumble dry cycle).

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 7 of 12

LABELLING OF MACHINE WASH & TUMBLE DRY HAND KNITTING YARN
The following note (or similar) shall be included on the label or ball band:2‘It is strongly recommended that a test panel (about 10cm in a stocking stitch) be knitted,
washed and tumble dried to check the tension before commencing knitting of the actual
garment.’
The appropriate needle size for a yarn shall be recommended.
Machine washing and drying instructions shall be given as below or similar:‘Machine wash at 40°C max and use the ‘cool’ or ‘cold’ setting on a tumble drier. Do not
tumble dry using the hot setting.’
Shade cards
The following statement shall be included on shade cards, delivery notes and other relevant items:‘This yarn, when knitted and finished following appropriate processes, is suitable for use ingarments that will meet the Woolmark and Woolmark Blend specifications for machine-wash
and tumble-dry knitwear.’Yarns are accepted on the basis of dimensional change only.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 8 of 12

B.

FURNISHING AND BEDDING YARN

Property

Test method

Wool content (%)
155
Non-wool fibre content (%)
Colourfastness to rubbing
wet and dry stain(grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to light
blue reference (grade: minimum)

Colourfastness to shampooing (grade:minimum)

Pass level
Woolmark:
Woolmark Blend:

100% Pure New Wool50%

Woolmark Blend:

50%

165

5

3–4
Greater than 1/12 standard depth: 5Less than (or equal to) 1/12 standard depth: 4
Bright and pastel colours
Darker than 1/12 standard depth: 3
Lighter than, or equal to, 1/ 12 standard depth: 2–3

233

3–4

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool Content
Woolmark labelling see Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 or F-4, as appropriate.
Woolmark Blend labelling see Specification F-5.
Decorative fibre
A percentage of non-wool fibre may be included in Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelled yarn
for purely decorative effect.
2. Woolmark TM5: Colourfastness to light
Only applicable to dyed yarn. Undyed and bleached white yarn shall not be evaluated.
For products sold in Australia and South Africa, grade 5 is required for shades darker than 1/3
standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3 and 1/12 standard depth.
Bright and pastel colours
Only the shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card, bright and pastel colours
and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No other shades shall be classed asbright or pastel without prior reference to Woolmark Management Group.
3. Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
Only applicable to yarn dyed darker than 1/12 standard depth.
4. Woolmark TM233: Colourfastness to shampooing
Only applicable to yarn dyed darker than 1/12 standard depth.
5. Insect resistance: Woolmark TWC-TM27 and Woolmark TWC-TM28
See Specification CP-4. Only applicable in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
6. Woollen Spun Yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before testing
to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 9 of 12

C. CARPET AND RUG OR SQUARE YARN
Property

Test
methodWoolmark:
Woolmark Blend:

Wool content(%: minimum)
Non-wool content: (%: maximum )Polyamide
Bi-component polyester
Polypropylene
Other natural fibres
Colourfastness to shampooingchange of colour (grade: minimum)
stain wool (grade: minimum)
stain polyamide (grade: minimum)
stain polyester (grade: minimum)
stain polypropylene (grade: minimum)

Pass level
Pure New Wool
50% new wool

155
Woolmark Blend: 50% new fibre (maximum)

233

4
3–4
3–4 (for blend product only)
3–4 (only if polyester in blend)
3–4 (only if polypropylene in blend)

DCM or methanol extractable matter(%: maximum)

136

1.0
Blend with Polyester or Polypropylene: 1.2

Abrasion weight loss:(mg/1000 rubs: maximum)

283

Woolmark: 70
Woolmark Blend:Colourfastness to light(grade: minimum)

133

Standard depth:
Less than 1/12 standard depth:
First fade :

45
5
4
3

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
Woolmark labelling see Specification F-1, F-2, F-3 or F-4, as appropriate.
Woolmark Blend labelling see Specification F-5
Decorative fibre
A percentage of non-wool fibre may be included in Woolmark and Woolmark Blend labelledyarn for purely decorative effect.
Other fibres:
Products that meet the above requirement but contain new non-wool fibres other than thosespecified may be submitted to the Woolmark Management Group for tribunal consideration.
Polyester:
Only low melt sheath bi-component polyester is permitted. Fibres shall be intimately blended
with wool.
2. Woolmark TM233: Colourfastness to shampooing
Only applicable to yarn dyed darker than 1/12 standard depth.
3. Use of ‘New’
For products containing polyamide and polyester fibre in intimate blend with wool, the word ‘new’
shall not be used in the fibre content phrase if the product is offered for sale in any European
Union (EU) member state.
4. Woolmark TM136: Solvent (DCM) extraction
Woolmark Blend products may give higher results than pure wool. For blends containing
polypropylene, methanol must be used as extraction solvent. In this case, the maximum is 1.2%.
5. Insect resistance: Woolmark TWC-TM27 and Woolmark TWC-TM28
See Specification CP-4. Only applicable to Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
6. Woollen spun yarns
All woollen spun yarns shall be scoured before testing to remove processing oils. All yarns with an
extractable matter content of 2% and higher (as tested by IWTO-10) shall be scoured before testing
WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 10 of 12

to remove processing oils.
Scouring is carried out as follows: (1) prepare a soap solution of 1g/L with soap flakes anddeionised or distilled water; (2) place a hank of yarn in the solution and gently squeeze for 2–3
minutes; (3) rinse the yarn under cold running tap water for 5 minutes; (4) hydro-extract theexcess water and dry the yarn flat in an oven not exceeding 60°C for 1 hour or at room
temperature overnight.

ADDITIONAL CLAIM: Insect resistance—Woolmark TWC-TM27 and Woolmark TWC-TM28
Property

Insect resistance

Test method

27, 28Pass level

See Specification CP-4

If a Woolmark or Woolmark Blend carpet yarn carries an insect resist (or similar) claim, it must meetthe requirements in CP-4 applicable to the country of sale.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 11 of 12

TEST AND REPORT CRITERIA FOR CARPET, RUG AND SQUARE YARNSAll samples must be tested using the test methods in the following table, however there is no pass or failcriteria for the properties tested. The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate method and report
the result to the customer.
The failure of the product to meet the guideline performance level must be highlighted in the report to thelicensee. When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice or assistance to the licensee toimprove the performance of the product under normal commercial arrangements for consultancies.
The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be subject to agreement between the fabricmanufacturer and the customer. The Woolmark Company shall not act to arbitrate between the twoparties on such issues.

Property

Test method

Colourfastness to rubbing(Grade: minimum)

232

Colourfastness to water(grade: minimum)

6

Cold water staining (grade: minimum)
Undyed and berber products only256

DCM extractable matter(%: maximum) See Note 4

136

Guideline level

Wet:
Dry:

3
3–4

Change in colour:

4

3–4

1

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM232: Colourfastness to rubbing
This test is not required on undyed yarns.
2. Woolmark TM6: Colourfastness to waterThis test is not required on undyed yarns.
3. Woolmark TM256: Cold water staining
This test applies to yarns to be used undyed or in berber products.
4. Woolmark TM136: DCM extractable matter
Woolmark Blend products may give higher results. See guidelines in Appendix 1 of Woolmark
TWC-TM136.
For shades lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth, the maximum extractable matter content
is 1.0%.

WOOLMARK SPECIFICATION
SY-1 YARNS

Page 12 of 12