WOOLMARK SPECIFICATIONSPECIFICATION AK-1: 2016

KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
The Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend logo may be applied to the following knitted
apparel products:• sweaters, cardigans and waistcoats• jackets and coats• trousers• skirts• dresses• dressing gowns• shirts and blouses• underwear• nightwear (excluding dressing gowns)• socks, stockings and tights• leggings• multi-piece garment sets, including suits and costumes• accessories (hats, scarves, gloves, ties)
Pile garment shells: Only Woolmark may be applied to these products.
Specifications for Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend products are the same as those for Woolmark,except where indicated.
Accessories. The Woolmark Company must be contacted directly if an accessory product is otherthan hat, scarf, glove or tie.
Multi-piece garment sets including suits and costumes. If component items are made from different
fabric, the individual components must be evaluated according to the appropriate specification.
Wool pile footwear: Only Woolmark may be applied to these products. The specification covering
these products are considered in the Appendix.

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Property

Wool content (%: minimum)

Colourfastness to lightBlue reference (grade: minimum)
Not applicable to underwear, nightwear,
socks, stockings and tights

Test method

SPECIFICATIONS – All Products

155

5

Surface pile weight(g/m²: minimum)

15

Cover factor (mm tex: minimum)
Plain knit semi-worsted and woollenspun products only169

DCM extract (%: maximum)
Woollen-spun products only
Colourfastness to rubbing - dry
Stain (grade: minimum)
Products darker than 1/12 standard
depth only1
Trousers,
leggings
suits

2
Costumes,
skirts,dresses,jackets,
coats,
dressing gowns

Woolmark:
Woolmark Blend:
Wool Blend:

3
Shirts,blouses,
underwear,nightwear,
next-to-skin

Product type
4

5

6

7

Socks,
Stockings,
tightsSweaters,
cardigans,waistcoats

Accessories

Pile garment
shellsDarker than 1/12 standard depth:

4Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:

3Bright and pastel colours:
Darker than 1/12 standard depth:

3Lighter than, or equal to, 1/12 standard depth:

2–3
–

220

–

1.0

–

400

Worsted:
325
Woollen only
Class 1: 200
Class 2: 225

–

–

5

–

136

1.5

165

3–4

Burst strength(kPa: minimum)
Plain knitted products only

29

Spirality(angle in degrees: maximum)
Plain knitted products only

276

Garment inspection

206

Woolmark
Blend and
Wool Blend
not applicable

100% (see Specifications F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4)
50% (see Specification F-5)
30% (see Specification F-7)

400

325

5

325
250 (fine gauge
apparel)Pass

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.
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NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
The wool content of Woolmark labelled products is described in Specifications F-1 to F-4.
1.1 Knitwear elastic threads:
A maximum of three courses is permitted in both the welt and the cuffs.
The wool content of Woolmark Blend labelled products is described in Specification F-5.
The wool content of Wool Blend labelled products is described in Specification F-7.
All pile products must have a pure wool pile but the backing material may be manufactured of analternative material.
2. Woolmark TM5: Light fastness
For products sold in Australia and South Africa, colourfastness to light, blue reference grade 5 isrequired for shades darker than 1/3 standard depth and grade 4 for shades between 1/3 and 1/12
standard depth.
2.1 Undyed and bleached white products
Products of this type must not be evaluated
2.2 Naturally coloured wool
Such wools may exhibit poor colourfastness to light but the product may carry the Woolmark
or Woolmark Blend if the following text (or similar) is used on the ticket:‘It is an inherent feature of some naturally coloured wools that the colour may fade’.
2.3 Bright and pastel colours
Only the specific shades given on The Woolmark Company shade reference card - Bright &Pastel Colours and intermediate shades at maximum brightness are included. No othershades will be classed as bright or pastel shades without prior approval by the Woolmark
Management Group.
3. Woolmark TM15: Surface pile weightThis test is only applied to garment the shell fabric of which is a pile.
4. Woolmark TM169: Cover factor
This test is only applied to plain knit semi-worsted and woollen spun product in the form ofcardigans, sweaters and pullovers.
Definitions:‘Plain knit’: the stocking stitch or ‘jersey’ like fabric (simplest knitted structure).
‘Semi-worsted spun’: yarns made from sliver produced by carding and gilling, in which thecarded sliver has not been condensed or combed.
5. Woolmark TM136: DCM extractable matter
This test is to be conducted on woollen-spun products only. Products treated with a fluorocarbon
finish or machine washable products that have been processed with shrink-resist polymer
treatments (from solvent) may give results greater than the permitted maximum since these
additives may be removed in addition to any oils or softeners present. In these cases, a figure
greater than the maximum may be allowed, provided that the sample meets all otherrequirements; such cases must be referred to the Woolmark Management Group.
6. Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
Testing required for shades heavier than 1/12 standard depth.
7. Woolmark TM29: Burst strength:
7.1 Applied to plain knitted products only.
7.2 Woollen sweaters and cardigans.
Class 1 products defined as resultant yarn count = 14Nm (or finer).
Class 2 products defined as all other products.
Note: this requirement is not applicable to waistcoats.
7.3 Fine gauge apparel products
Resultant yarn count of 32Nm (or finer), and fabric weight less than or equal to 200g/m².
8. Woolmark TM276: Spirality
Garments knitted in a plain, single jersey structure, including those made from multiple coloured
yarns, must be assessed. Lightweight single jersey products may be approved the Woolmark
Management Group where the angle of spirality is >5degrees, if the overall appearance after
washing of the garment is acceptable and the seams are not distorted.
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AK-1 KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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9. Woolmark TM206: Garment inspection
An inspection procedure is required to assess the general quality of knitted products, etc.

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AK-1 KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Products with a ‘Dry clean only’ care claim

Property

Dimensional change (% maximum)
Number of cycles
Colourfastness to water
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
Stain cotton (grade: minimum)
For blend products
Stain other fibre: Worst fibre(grade: minimum)

Test method

Product type

ISO
3175

1

Trousers,
leggings

2
Skirts,dresses,jackets,
coats,
dressing
gowns

3

5

6

7

Shirts,blouses,
underwear,nightwear,
next-to-skin

Sweaters,
cardigans,waistcoats

Accessories

Pile
garment
shellsLength and width change –5 < DC < 5%
3 × ISO3175 Normal or CDT
3–4
3
3

6
3

NA

1. Note. Tables must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.
NOTES
1. Product type
‘Dry clean only’ care claim is not allowed for socks, stockings and tights.
2. ISO 3175: Dimensional stability to dry cleaning
In the event that ISO 3175 ‘Normal’ is not available, three commercial dry clean test (CDT) cycles is a suitable alternative.
‘Shrinkage’ is denoted by a negative (–) value and an ‘extension’ by a positive (+) value.
–5 < DC < +5 indicates that the fabric must not shrink more than 5% nor expand by more than 5% in either warp of weft direct.
3. Woolmark TM6: Colourfastness to water
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained synthetic fibre in the adjacent fabric.

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AK-1 KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width (plain knitted products only)
LengthArea
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthArea
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
Width
LengthArea
Colourfastness to hand washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
For blend products only
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool (grade: minimum)
For blend products only
Stain other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method

Products with a ‘Hand wash’ or ‘Hand wash or dry Clean’ care claim

31

31

31

250

174

1

Trousers,
leggings

2
Skirtsdresses,jackets,
coats,
dressing
gowns

Product type
4

5

6

7

Shirtsblouses,
underwear,nightwear,
next to skin

Socks,
stockings,
tightsSweaters,
cardigans,waistcoats

Accessories

Pile garment
shells

3

–
–

–
–

DC < +5–10 < DC––

–8 < DC < +5
–10 < DC––––

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

–––
1 × 7A

–––
1 × 7A–––8 < DC
1 × 5A––10 < DC–
1 × 5A–––8 < DC
1 × 7A–––8 < DC
1 × 7A

––
1 × 7A

DC < +5–5 < DC–DC < +5–5 < DC–––10 < DC–––––5 < DC–5 < DC–8 < DC–––––3 < DC
–

3–4
4

3
3

3–4
4

3–4

3

3–4

Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4

3
3

Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4

3–4

3

3–4

NA

NA

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

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NOTES
1. Care claim
If the fabric care claim (words or symbols) is for both ‘Dry clean’ and ‘Hand wash’, the fabric shall meet both claim requirements.
2. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not exceed 5%.
–8 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 8%.
–8 < DC < +5 indicates that shrinkage must not exceed 8% and extension must not exceed 5%.
For products in Category 3 (shirts, blouses, underwear, nightwear, next to skin), the specification for total dimensional changes only applies to garments
having full-length legs.
For products in Category 5 (sweaters, cardigans, waistcoats), the specifications for total dimensional change are only applicable to ‘boiled wool’ products.
Definition:‘Boiled wool’: products made of wool or wool blend yarns, felted or partially felted deliberately during the manufacturing process in order to achieve thedesired texture and density.
This test must include both measurements required by this specification and the other measurement made (e.g. length and width dimensional change inrelaxation and felting). The full set of measurements are included to assist retailers in making garment assessments related to their own requirements whilst
also using the Woolmark specifications.
3. Woolmark TM250: Colourfastness to hand washing
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
4. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
This test is only carried out on multi-coloured products.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.

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Products with a ‘Machine wash’ care claim

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width (plain knitted products only)
LengthArea
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthArea
No. and type of wash cycles
Dimensional Change – total (%)
Width
LengthArea
Colourfastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain other fibre: worst fibre (grade: minimum)

5
Sweaters,
cardigans,waistcoats

6
Accessorie
s

7
Pile
garment
shellsDC < +5–10 < DC––

–8 < DC <+5–10 < DC––––

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A

1 × 7A31–––
3 × 5A

–––
3 × 5A–––8 < DC5 × 5A––10 < DC–5 × 5A–––8 < DC
2 × 5A–––8 < DC
2 × 5A

–––
3 × 5A

31

DC < +5–5 < DC–DC < +5–5 < DC–––10 < DC–––––5 < DC–5 < DC–8 < DC–––––3 < DC–

Test method

Property

Product type
4
Socks,
stockings,
tights31

1
Trousers,
leggings

2
Skirts,dresses,jackets,
coats,
dressing
gowns

3
Shirts,blouses,
underwear,nightwear,
next-toskin

–
–

–
–

1 × 7A

193

3–4
4
3–4

3
3
3

174

Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4
3–4

3
3
3

3–4
4
3–4
Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

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AK-1 KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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NOTES
1. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not exceed 5%.
–8 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 8%.
–8 < DC < +5 indicates that extension must not exceed 5% and shrinkage must not exceed 8%.
This test must include both measurements required by this specification and the other measurement made (e.g. length and width dimensional change inrelaxation and felting). The full set of measurements are included to assist retailers in making garment assessments related to their own requirements whilst
also using the Woolmark specifications.
For products in Category 3 (shirts, blouses, underwear, next to skin), the specification for total dimensional changes only applies to garments having fulllength legs.
For products in Category 5 (sweaters, cardigans, waistcoats), the specifications for total dimensional change are only applicable to ‘boiled wool’ products.
Definition:‘Boiled wool’: products made of wool or wool blend yarns, felted or partially felted deliberately during the manufacturing process in order to achieve thedesired texture and density.
’Boiled wool’ products requiring a machine wash label must be submitted to the Woolmark Management Group for assessment and approval.
2. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products pass Part A but fail Part B, additional labelling requirements must be observed to prevent problems that could arise during the washing ofgarments should a bleach containing detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry an advisory statement: ‘Wash
using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
3. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Undyed and bleached white product must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
This test is required for multi-coloured products only.

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AK-1 KNITTED APPAREL PRODUCTS

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Property

Dimensional change – relaxation (%)
Width (plain knitted products only)
LengthArea
No. and type of wash/dry cycles
Dimensional change – felting (%)
Width
LengthArea
No. and type of wash/dry cycles
Dimensional change – total (%)
Width
LengthArea
Afterwash appearance(grade: minimum)
Colourfastness to machine washing
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain worst other fibre (grade: minimum)
Colourfastness – wet alkaline contact
Change of colour (grade: minimum)
Stain wool and nylon (grade: minimum)
Stain worst other fibre (grade: minimum)

Test method

Products with a ‘Machine Wash and tumble dry or ‘Total Easy Care’ care claim

31

31

31

Product type
4
Socks,
stockings,
tights5
Sweaters,
cardigans,waistcoats

6
Accessories

7
Pile garment
shellsDC < +5–10 < DC––

–8 < DC < +5
–10 < DC––––

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]

1 × [7A+TD]–––
5 x [5A+TD]–––
5 x [5A+TD]–––8 < DC5 x [5A+TD]––10 < DC–5 x [5A+TD]

DC < +10–10 < DC < +10–8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]–––8 < DC
5 × [5A+TD]–––
5 × [5A+TD]

DC < +5–5 < DC–DC < +5–5 < DC––10 < DC1
Trousers,
leggings

2
Skirts,dresses,jackets,
coats,
dressing gowns

3
Shirts,blouses,
underwear,nightwear,
next-to-skin

–
–

–
–

1 × [7A+TD]

3

–

3–4
4
3–4

3
3
3

Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4
3–4

3
3
3

193

174

–
–3 < DC
–
3

3–4
4
3–4

Multi-coloured products only
3–4
4
3–4

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.

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NOTES
1. ‘Tumble dry’ may only be applied to machine washable Woolmark, Woolmark Blend or Wool Blend knitted apparel products. The term ‘Total Easy Care –TEC’ is also applied to products that may be machine washed and tumble dried.
2. Woolmark TM31: Dimensional stability
DC < +5 indicates that the extension in washing must not exceed 5%.
–8 < DC indicates that the shrinkage of the product in washing must not exceed 8%.
–8 < DC < +5 indicates that extension must not exceed 5% and shrinkage must not exceed 8%.
[7A+TD] – a 7A wash followed by a tumble dry.
[5A+TD] – a 5A wash followed by a tumble dry.
This test must include both measurements required by this specification and the other measurement made (e.g. length and width dimensional change inrelaxation and felting). The full set of measurements are included to assist retailers in making garment assessments related to their own requirements whilst
also using the Woolmark specifications.
For products in Category 3 (shirts, blouses, underwear, nightwear, next to skin), the specification for total dimensional change only applies to garments
having full-length legs.
After wash and dry appearance
Tumble drying can have an adverse effect on garment appearance.
This specification requires that Woolmark TWC-TM31, Appendix 6 be carried out. This test method includes a subjective assessment after 1 × 7A + 1 × TD
cycle and 2 × (1 × 5A + 1 × TD) cycles. TM298 may also be used.
3. Woolmark TM193: Colourfastness to machine washing
Undyed and bleached white products must not be evaluated.
‘Stain other fibre’ is defined as the most severely stained fibre in the adjacent fabric.
The test method is divided into two parts:
Part A: standard detergent without perborate
Part B: standard detergent with perborate.
Both test methods are to be carried out and both sets of results must be reported.
If products pass Part A but fail Part B, additional labelling requirements must be observed to prevent problems that could arise during the washing ofgarments should a bleach containing detergent be used. In this case, all labels and tickets attached to garments must carry an advisory statement: ‘Wash
using a Woolmark approved detergent’ (or similar). Full details of these additional requirements are available from The Woolmark Company.
4. Woolmark TM174: Colourfastness to wet alkaline contact
Required for multi-coloured products only.

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TEST AND REPORT CRITERIA
All samples must be tested using the test methods listed below, however there is no pass or fail criteria
for the properties tested. The licensee must test all samples to the appropriate method and report theresult to the customer.
The failure of the product to meet the guideline performance level must be highlighted in the report tothe licensee. When requested, The Woolmark Company can provide advice or assistance to thelicensee to improve the performance of the product under normal commercial arrangements for
consultancies.
The decision to accept or reject a particular fabric should be subject to agreement between the fabricmanufacturer and the customer. The Woolmark Company shall not act to arbitrate between the twoparties on such issues.
Woolmark TWC-TM152: Indication of pilling propensity
Testing must be carried out on all categories, except accessories, and the results reported. This
specification is not applicable to accessories.
Due to the many factors affecting pilling there is no universally accepted test method that accurately
predicts the likely propensity of a fabric to pill during use. However, products must be tested
according to Woolmark TWC-TM152. The actual performance will depend on the application, wearer
and the commercial constraints on the garment.
Pilling in wear is a highly variable process. The same fabric worn by different people under similar
circumstances may pill quite differently. Further differences exist between consumers in theirperception of what is unacceptable. The Woolmark Company pilling test is a simple method thatindicates the propensity to pilling for most knitted fabrics, although it may not always give a truecomparative indication of differences between fabrics because pilling is assessed after a fixed timeinterval.
Pilling is a dynamic property and the rate of pilling can often change according to time and wear.
Some of the most important factors influencing the pilling propensity are:• fibre diameter• fibre length• twist level• fabric construction.

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APPENDIX:
SPECIFICATIONS FOR WOOL PILE FOOTWEAR
PRODUCTS
The Woolmark logo may be applied to sliverknit footwear products meant for indoor use only, likeslippers or boots, made from sliver knit pile fabric (sheepskin products are covered by Woolmark
Specification P-1).
All products must be submitted to the Woolmark Management Group for approval, but theymust meet the criteria in the following table prior to submission.
Test
methodPass level

Wool content of pile(%:minimum)

155

Woolmark – Pure New Wool(see specification F-1, F-2, F-3 or F-4 asappropriate)

Surface pile weight (gm-2 : minimum)

277

250

Pile height (mm: minimum)

279

7

Colourfastness to rubbing – wet and dry:
(grade: minimum)
Products darker than 1/12 standard depth only

165

3–4

Extractable matter of pile(%: maximum)

136

1.0

Colourfastness to light (grade: minimum)
Dyed products only

5

Property

Darker than 1/12 standard depth: 4
Lighter than, or equal to,
1/12 standard depth: 3• This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow.
NOTES
1. Woolmark TM155: Wool content
Only the Woolmark logo can be used for wool pile footwear. Other fibres cannot be used for pilecomponents in any part of the product, including lining
2. Woolmark TM277: Surface pile weight
To correctly measure the surface pile weight, samples of the fabric used for producing thefootwear must be supplied to the authorised laboratory together with the products.
3. Woolmark TM165: Colourfastness to rubbing
This test is only applicable to products darker than 1/12 standard depth.
4. Woolmark TM136: DCM extractable matter
No further comment.
5. Woolmark TM05: Colourfastness to light
This test is only applicable to dyed products.

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Additional mandatory requirements for dry clean only products
TestmethodPass level

Appearance after three dry clean cycles – pile
Sliver knit products only

287

Acceptable (satisfactory after wash level of fibre clumping,felting and consolidation)

Appearance after three dry clean cycles –footwear construction–

Acceptable (the product must not disassemble, unglue orlose components)

Property•

This table must be read in conjunction with the notes that follow

NOTES
1. Woolmark TM287: Appearance retention of sliver knits• Three dry clean cycles according to ISO 3175-1 ‘Normal’, or equivalent for the commercial dry
clean test (CDT).
Felting can occur during use (in addition to that during cleansing). It is essential that all products
exhibit an acceptable degree of appearance retention during use, irrespective of care claim.
2. Sample for Testing
A complete footwear product must be tested for evaluation of after wash pile appearance andresistance of the construction.
3. Appearance after dry cleaning footwear construction
Dry cleaning must be carried out according to ISO 3175-1 (or equivalent) using a solvent systemcharged with 2% water. In assessing the acceptability of a product, the assembling quality before
and after the specified cleaning cycles will be considered.

OPTIONAL CARE CLAIMSAll products submitted for approval for the use of the Woolmark label must be submitted
to the Woolmark Management Group (WMG). All Information on constructionalparameters for submitted products must be included with products for all care claims.
Testing and approval or rejection of products with care claim not listed in thisspecification will be arranged by the WMG.

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