HIDDEN VILLAGE

An off-the-beaten trek guide to Gurja Khani(plus further off-the-beaten treks in Dhaulagiri region, including Dhorpatan)

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CONTENTS
Section 1: INTRODUCTION
 Hidden Village
 Off-the-beaten treks
 About this guide book and pro-poor tourism
Section 2: TREKKING ADVICE Trekking styles - and their impact
 Finding a trekking agency, hiring porters and guide Trekking permits When to go What to wear and bring Accommodation
 Sanitation and water Food and drinks
 Rates for accommodation, food and local guides
 Cash and security
 Health, safety and first aid
 Communications while on trek
 Code of behavior
Section 3: MORE ABOUT HIDDEN VILLAGE
 History
 The village today Practical information
 Tourist activities
 Farming and other occupations
 Social and development challenges
 Beliefs
Section 4: DHAULAGIRI ZONE – topography, history, and culture Topography
 Profile of Baglung and Myagdi districts
 Ethnic and caste groups Flora and fauna
Section 5: TRAIL GUIDE
1. Route One: Darbang to Gurja Khani via Lulang (2-3 days)
2. Route Two: Darbang to Gurja Khani via Dhorpatan (3-4 days)
3. Route Three: Baglung to Gurja Khani via Tarakhola and Dhorpatan (6-7 days)
4. Route Four: Gurja Khani to Darbang via Dhaula gorge (3 days)
5. Mini Trek: Baglung to Tatopani/Myagdi Khola via Dhamja Pass (2 days)
Section 6: GLOSSARY and PHRASEBOOK

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PREFACEMy first trek in Nepal was from Tansen to Dhorpatan in 1974. The area was untouched
by development. I was entranced with everything. As we climbed towards the heights of the
Jaljalla Pass, I felt we were as remote as one could get. But deviating from our path at one point I
noticed a series of steep stone steps carved into a cliff, heading northwards. I could not imagine
where this path was going. In that direction there was nothing but a vast wilderness ofmountains and a great white wall. But there was a village, I was told. It was a large village, hidden
in its own valley, a day’s walk northwards. My curiosity was piqued. I knew I had to go there . . .I
hope you feel the same way.
My husband and I spent 18 years working in Nepal with various development projects,
including 5 years in Baglung district. During this period we did most of the well-known treks, andspent weeks on end walking ‘un-beaten’ trails to check on small development initiatives in farflung villages. There were rarely any teashop-lodges in which to stay. Someone usually offered to
put us up for the night, often vacating their bed for us, and serving us the best food they could
rustle up. When we reflect on what Nepal means to us, it is those nights by the kitchen firelightthat we especially recall. Their friendliness, generosity and hospitality towards total strangers
and foreigners is quite hard to comprehend. Returning to Nepal in 2014 our aim is to promotetrekking on off-the-beaten trails. Not only will this allow greater revenue from tourism to trickle
down to the grass-roots level, but it will allow visiting tourists to experience the Nepali hospitalitythat we have enjoyed.
Joy Stephens34

1. INTRODUCTION

Hidden Village
There are countless scenic mountain villages in Nepal but few so hidden, isolated, andinaccessible as Gurja Khani. Nestling on a sunny shelf in its own private valley beneath the
Dhaulagiri range, Hidden Village is remote from all its neighbours. The nearest village lies a day’s
walk to the south across a 3,300 metre pass; to the east the approach is blocked by animpenetrable gorge; to the west lies the terrain of snow leopards in the high-altitude wildernessof the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve; while northwards, the slope rises steeply above the slate
roofs of the village to buttress the majestic south face of Gurja Himal peak – over seven
kilometres high and a mere ten kilometres from the village in horizontal space.
Only a handful of trekkers and climbers have found their way to Gurja Khani village overthe past decade. But if you wish to escape the well-beaten routes, enjoy a closer encounter withlocal communities, or ensure that more of your expenditure goes to help those most in need - yetstill enjoy stunning views of the Himalayas - this is the destination and trekking guide for you.
In Hidden Village you will find a surprisingly large, bustling community earning their livingfrom the land, barely touched by the modern world. Here you step back in time to a place where
survival depends upon the generosity of nature and one’s own resourcefulness.
Off-the-beaten treksThis guide book describes four treks of varying lengths (2-7 days) and difficulty whereby
you may visit Hidden Village. These routes have been carefully researched to avoid theburgeoning motor roads, and to take trekkers through the least touched and most scenic andculturally interesting areas of Baglung and Myagdi Districts (Dhaulagiri Zone). Access to the startof the treks is by road from Pokhara to either Beni/Darbang or Baglung, and at the time of writing(January 2015) there is no need of a TIMS permit. However, those passing via Dhorpatan valley
need to purchase an entry permit for the Hunting Reserve.
A visit to Gurja Khani can easily be combined with the Dhaulagiri’ Circuit’ trek (FrenchPass), with a trek to Muktinath and Around Annapurna, or to the beautiful alpine valley of
Dhorpatan, to Dolpo, or to Rukum and Rolpa (the Guerrilla trek).
There is no tourism infrastructure at present. Accommodation along the way will either bein basic ‘tea-shop’ lodges which exist to serve the local population, or in simple family-based‘homestays’ where you will be invited to sit around the cooking hearth in the evenings and get a
glimpse into family life. Homestays are in the process of being established in key villages along
the routes, and the arrival of trekkers will help to spur on their development, providing a usefulsupplementary income source and a more family-friendly alternative to migrant work in Gulf
countries and elsewhere.

About this guide book and pro-poor tourism

This guide is designed to be a practical, carry-along handbook
which provides you with all the information you need, whether you gowith a trekking agency or strike out independently. However, it isrecommended to buy the Gurja Himal & Hidden Village Trekking Map(NS 523 Himalayan Map Publishers – available in bookstores inThamel/Kathmandu and at Pokhara Lakeside).
The publication is part of an initiative to promote ‘pro-poor’trekking in new areas, thereby bringing economic benefits to neglected
communities, and providing an enriching encounter for both visitor andhost. The tourism development initiative for Hidden Village has theexpress support of the villagers of Gurja Khani, and key communities
along the access routes.
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What is Pro-Poor trekking?
Pro-poor tourism promotes a style of trekking which maximizes the benefits to the
local communities along the route, and ensures that the poorer households benefit in amore equitable and inclusive manner. While trekking agencies take care to leave minimal
impact on the environment, they also leave minimal impact on the local economy, since
their supplies are brought in from the outside, and a high percentage of the revenue goesto the trekking company owners. Along the major trekking routes, independent trekkers
can stay in a range of small private lodges, but once again much of the benefit goes into
the pockets of the already better-off. The recent concept of pro-poor trekking and thedevelopment of village homestays is an effort to channel more of the tourism revenues
into the pockets of the less well-off, especially those living in remote areas who sufferfrom lack of modern conveniences, poor quality schools and health services.
How is it anti-discriminatory?
Along the trails described in this book, a conscious effort is being made toencourage dalit communities to establish homestays and teashops. Stigmatized in thepast by the label ‘low-caste’ or ‘untouchable’, dalits are accustomed to others perceiving
their homes and hospitality as ‘unclean’. Hence they have not been able to benefit fromtourism except through employment as porters. Your visit can help to change this andboost their standing in local society.

2. TREKKING ADVICE

The style of trekking you choose mostly depends upon your personal taste, the state ofyour wallet, your physical fitness, and the facilities along the route. When making the decision, it
is worthwhile considering not only the experiences and memories you wish to take away, but the
impact and impressions you wish to leave behind.
Going with a major trekking agency
Some prefer to book ahead and join an organized group trek where everything ismanaged by the trekking company with few hassles and no ‘unknowns’. Trekking agencies offer
both camping treks and lodge-based treks of this nature. The agency provides the itinerary, theporters (trekkers carry their own day packs), the camping equipment, and even the sleeping bags
and other clothing gear if required. The organized camping treks are the easiest way to reach thehigh altitude routes where there are no lodges (e.g. Around Dhaulagiri). Trekkers on such treks
usually build up a close relationship with their English-speaking guides, but may have quite
limited contact with local inhabitants. Most, if not all, of the organized camping treks areenvironmentally sensitive and carry along kerosene fuel for cooking in order to conserve
firewood, and take care to carry out, bury or burn their waste.
Expect to pay considerably more for your trek when you pre-book through one of the big
Nepal-based trekking agencies, or one based in Europe. Read the reviews carefully. Most
trekkers are very satisfied. But a minority are surprised to find, for example, that their tents are
pitched each night not in the wilderness photo of the brochure, but in the courtyard of a trekkers’
lodge, or that the ‘luxury lodges’ they paid for are not luxurious at all, and that other trekkers
staying the night are paying a tenth of what they are paying.
From an ethical stance, the more you can make your money go to the people at thebottom, the better. With a group agency trek it is important to find out what they pay their porters,
what training and equipment they give them, and other provisions (e.g. in the unlikely event of an5

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accident or death). And for your own safety to find out what training the give their guides, andhow they would deal with a potential disaster such as the blizzard in October 2014 (See box).
Paying more for your trek, or having genuine Sherpas, does not necessarily mean you are in safer
hands.
There are many companies these days which claim to be green or have an ethical basis.
Read the small print carefully and don’t be afraid to ask questions. It may mean that theirbrochure is printed on recycled paper and they give an occasional donation to an orphanage. Or
it may have more substance. There are also agencies which will organize a volunteer experiencein combination with a trek.
Currently, a few trekking companies offer a camping trek to Dhorpatan via Jaljalla Pass,and camping treks of the Dhaulagiri Circuit. This is the closest they come to Hidden Village. If you
ask them they will almost certainly be willing to organize such a trek for you – at a price! But why
not be adventurous and try the option below?
Going it alone – with some help!
This guidebook is written primarily for those who prefer the freedom and sense ofadventure to trek independently of a large organised group. This does not mean that you have togo without a guide or that you have to carry all your own gear – though you may do both if you
wish. With this style of trekking you do not need to pre-book; arrangements can be made after
you arrive in the country.
If you wish to hire a porter or an English-speaking guide, there are countless small
trekking agencies who will arrange it. If you prefer you can hire a guide-cum-porter. This person
would carry for you a standard-sized rucksack, and have some basic English language. They may
not yet be familiar with all the routes to Hidden Village, but they soon will be. Rates vary. Follow
the advice above and check carefully what the agency pays their porters or recommends that you
do. None of the treks described in this guidebook require one to carry camping equipment –although that can be done – but they do assume that trekkers are willing to stay in fairly basic
local lodges (sometimes termed teashop trekking) or in local homes (homestays), eating local,
largely vegetarian food such as dal-bhaat.
Awareness about possible negative impacts on the environment has grown greatly since
the early days of trekking in Nepal, especially within the designated national parks, thanks to thework of agencies such as Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP). In these areas trekking
lodges avoid the use of firewood as much as possible by installing solar-heated water systems
and utilizing gas stoves.
Selecting a trekking agency, hiring porters and guides
You can go online and book ahead, or wait till you arrive in the country. There are hosts ofsmall trekking agencies around Thamel/Kathmandu or Pokhara Lakeside. The best advice is to
go on the recommendations of others: talk to a satisfied customer who has just returned from atrek and book with their company.
We hesitate to recommend because there are many of equal standard. However, in our
research, the one that stands out is the Three Sisters Trekking Agency at Pokhara Lakeside. Their
porters are all women, they receive quality training and are paid fair wages. Their porter prices
are on the high side, because the maximum weight which the women may carry is set by theagency, but you know that all the money goes to a worthy cause.. Profits go to support new
training intake each year and small development projects in the women’s communities.
Generally, all trekking agencies will be able to provide you with a porter or guide if you
wish to strike out independently.

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Trekking permits

There is no need of a TIMS trekking permit for a trek to Gurja Khani. However, if you are
passing via Dhorpatan valley you will need to purchase an entry permit for the Hunting Reserve.
This costs a rather exorbitant Rs 3000 (there is no discrimination between hunters and trekkers)
and can only be obtained in Kathmandu at Brikruti Mandap (the same building which sells the
TIMS permits). If you are planning to trek beyond Gurja to Dolpo or around Dhaulagiri or
Annapurna you will need to purchase the appropriate passes before setting out. TIMS permits
and ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area) entry passes can be obtained in Pokhara (office at
Dam Side) or at Brikruti Mandap (National Tourism Board Office) Kathmandu.

When to go

The best months for trekking are October and November when it should be dry and theviews clear. Occasionally the dregs of the monsoon extend into early October. The first half ofDecember is good for clear views but colder and there may be snow on the high passes. It canbecome very cold and cloudy with the short winter rains in late December and January which fall
as snow at higher altitudes. February is generally dry and the temperature warming. The second
most popular period is March – April. There is likely to be more cloud and the views more hazythan in the autumn, but any deficit in the weather is compensated by the spectacular flowering of
the rhododendron forests in this area.
Even in the best season the snow peaks tend to become cloud-covered by midday. They
can be more awe-inspiring with a cloak of cloud, and if you are close enough you will always beable to see portions of them through windows in the clouds. But if you wish for clear skies andimpregnable views, make sure you time your departure each day to reach the viewpoints in themorning hours.
If you don’t mind trekking in the rain, then go in the monsoon months of June-September.
You will see Nepal in its greenest and most festive state, abuzz with field work and fertility. These
are the only months for going with the herders up to their camps in the highest pastures andsearching for yarsa gumpa – the greatly-prized aphrodisiac known as ‘winter worm, summer
grass’.
More valuable than gold
Yarsa gumpa … winter worm summer grass …himalayan viagra … Ophiocordyceps
sinensis. This curious fungus is only found above 4000 metres in the Himalayas. In 2013 onegram of the substance cost a consumer in China $100 (US) – more than a gram of gold –though gatherers receive considerably less. No wonder that in May and June every year theyarsa gumpa gold rush hits Nepal.
Its creation begins with caterpillar larva of the Ghost Moth which develop underground.
Occasionally one of these becomes infected with the spores of the fungus. The caterpillar diesbut its mummified body hosts the fungus which, as the snow melts, sends up a stalk-like shootabove the soil. A 15th century Tibetan text describes the fungus as ‘the faultless treasure’. It isan aphrodisiac and said to strengthen the immune and circulatory systems.
It has become a major source of cash income for the poorest families in high-altitude
villages such as Gurja Khani. During the harvest period, tens of thousands ascend to the highaltitude pastures in the search. Now there are fears that over-collection is depleting thespores and harvests are reducing.

What to wear and bring

People vary greatly in their sensitivity to cold and the amount they want to carry. In
October the temperature can be over 30°C (86°F) at lower altitudes as you sweat up the first hill.
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By November it will be dropping to freezing point at nights in Gurja Khani (3000 m). Even in cold
weather you can work up a sweat while climbing which will turn to shivers when you take a rest ata pass, so it is best to wear several thin layers which can be adjusted. At the end of the day thesun will rapidly set behind the nearest mountain and the temperature plummets. Be warned that
Nepali homes are extremely well ventilated due to the gaps and cracks in their walls! This iswhen you will need your warm gear.
A lightweight waterproof is recommended in case of rain. Footwear should be
comfortable and have a non-slip sole. Heavy boots are not necessary unless you are used tothem; Nepalis walk these trails wearing broken trainers, gumboots, and flip-flops. It can be
useful to carry a pair of lightweight slippers for use in and around the homestays. Some people
find a lightweight telescopic walking pole useful for the downhill sections.
A torch is essential. Most trekkers carry a sleeping bag or at least a sheet sleeping bag.
Warm covers will be provided but in the teashop lodges there is no knowing how many people
have slept in them. Homestay hosts have been trained to provide clean linen but this does notmean it is guaranteed. If you are planning to trek higher than the trails described in this guide
you need to be prepared to carry your own tent and all the necessary provisions.
Carrying some snacks can provide a quick boost of energy when teashops are far apartand provide a welcome variation from the local diet. If you are a coffee addict you may want tocarry along a small tin of instant coffee as teashops only sell – guess what – tea. Small shops in
the major villages sell a limited selection of sweets, biscuits and savoury snacks, and possibly
drinks such as mango juice, sodas, and chocolate wafer bars. You are most unlikely to findbottled water so it is useful to carry some water purification tablets or bring an instant filter waterbottle. Toilet paper is only available in Baglung and Beni where it can be purchased inpharmacies.
Accommodation
Lodging will be in simple family-based ‘homestays’ or basic ‘tea-shop’ lodges which exist
to serve the local population. There are no tourist lodges such as you find on the Annapurna
circuit, except in Baglung and Beni. In the teashop lodges you are most likely to be given a simple
private room though you might have to share a common room. Mattresses may be nothing morethan two rice-straw mats covered by a blanket. There will be no glass in the windows and the
shutters are unlikely to be a tight fit. Warm bedding in the form of heavy cotton-filled seracs (likea duvet) or blankets will be provided, but you may not be the first person to have slept in those
sheets and covers! Toilet facilities will be a pit latrine in the courtyard with a bucket of water. But
what these lodges lack in facilities they generally make up for in the friendliness of theirpersonnel.
Homestays offer trekkers a small room in a private house with a family whose main
source of livelihood is farming. This means they cannot provide food and drinks at all hours ofthe day, but they will do their best to meet your needs. It is assumed that guests will eat theevening meal with the family. The main attraction which sets them apart from teashop lodges isthat guests are drawn into normal family life, invited to sit around the cooking hearth with otherfamily members in the evening. This is a special time when the family relaxes and children playwhile the food cooks. If you stay more than one night you will undoubtedly be invited to sharefurther activities with them and they will be eager to guide you to the best viewpoints.
It is a new concept for families to charge visitors for staying the night; traditionally lodging
is provided free of cost to travellers if they request it. Homestays are planned to be opened in key
villages along the routes during 2015, and the early arrival of trekkers will help to spur theirestablishment. Homestays target foreigners, so they are aiming for slightly higher standards ofcleanliness and comfort than the rural teashop lodges. Initially, however, they may be rather
rough and rudimentary. Facilities should improve as the number of trekkers increases and they
understand better the needs of foreigners. As income from tourism increases they will be able to8

9afford further improvements such as the construction of a shower house. The basic homestay
facilities are a private room with a double or twin beds, some type of mattress (may be rather
hard!), clean sheets, and a clean pit latrine (generally of the water-seal type with a ceramic slab)
with a bucket of water. Superior homestays will provide some type of shower facility.
The advantage of a teashop lodge over a homestay is that they are in the business ofproviding food and drink which you may order at any time. In a homestay the women have busy
lives with their farming commitments and cannot provide food and drink at the beck and call of
every tourist. They might provide tea when you first arrive but are unlikely to cook food until theevening hours when their other chores are over. However, there is nothing more pleasant thansitting on the verandah or around the cooking hearth of a home, and observing family life aroundyou. Without fail, you will be the beneficiaries of the best that Nepali hospitality and friendlinesscan offer.
If you end up in a settlement where there is neither a lodge nor an established homestay,
do not panic. You will still be able to find accommodation. Simply ask someone where you canstay, (bas basne kahaa huncha?) and they will probably guide you to the wealthiest household.
Providing hospitality to unexpected travellers is part of the traditional code of rural Nepal. Yourhosts will expect you to pay for the food you eat, but not for the accommodation. However, as
foreigners, it is a nice gesture to offer them something for the accommodation as well, especiallysince they will probably have given up their own bed for you.

Sanitation and water

Every teashop-lodge and homestay has its own pit latrine – as do almost all village
homes. Though none of them will have a seat or a built-in flush mechanism, they are generallyclean. Many of them boast a water-seal ceramic slab, and all of them should have a bucket ofwater and a jug for flushing. There may be a water tap in the courtyard with a bar of soap, but beconservative with the water you use as it may have to be carried from some distance away. Thisof course, is women’s work.
If you feel in need of a shower your best bet is to find a waterfall or take a dip in the river.
None of the teashop lodges or homestays currently have a purpose-built shower cubicle with
piped water. But they can provide you with a bucket of water and you can shower down in the
toilet. If you ask them nicely and offer to pay they will provide you with a bucket of hot water.
Otherwise you can wash as they do at the public tapstand or local spring. Nepali women are
extremely modest and never expose their private parts. With some practice you can learn toshower as they do, wearing a sarong or wrap. Hopefully such conveniences as private shower
rooms will develop. Gurja Khani village is developing a plan to install solar-heated public shower
house – so you may be lucky.

Food and drinks

Without fail you will be offered the best food your hosts can provide. This will almost
certainly be the traditional staple vegetarian dish of Nepal known as dal-bhaat. It always contains
lentils or beans which provide the protein, together with rice and spiced vegetables whatever is
in-season. This will probably be accompanied by some type of chutney or relish. A tomato-based
one is common. These are extremely tasty but their hygienic preparation cannot be guaranteed.
For the same price you will be offered as many helpings as you can eat. In Baglung district a
delicious spice is made from the seeds of cannabis sativa and also from timur - the citrus-tasting
fruit husks of a small wild tree. Rice is rich man’s food, and for most of the villagers along theway, their staple grain is likely to be maize, millet, or wheat. However, you will have to press themto taste these foods, since their assumption is that tourists’ delicate stomachs are unable toprocess the coarser grains (there is a grain of truth in this!). For breakfast, hosts may be willing to
make you roti – the local flatbread – generally made from wheat, but occasionally from millet or
buckwheat.
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If they have it available they may also offer you meat (dried or fresh) or fish or egg. These
are served in small quantities and double the price of the meal. If you need a quick snack,popcorn is the best bet since it is widely available, though it will not pop into the white fluffy
variety available at cinemas. Nowadays, small wayside shops are likely to sell packs of dal-mote(roasted spiced lentils) or even potato crisps, as well as a variety of biscuits and candy sweets.
Occasionally you may find a chocolate wafer bar. Fruit may be available but in limited quantities.
In Baglung and Beni wonderful crisp apples from Marpha are available in the autumn months.
Then in December and January, the trails in Baglung and Myagdi become littered with the peel of
local tangerines and oranges. Enjoy them!
If you are staying in a Magar or Chantyal community, or in the home of an artisan, you arelikely to be offered the local brew. Most probably it will be rakshi – a spirit distilled from millet orother grains. It is not unpleasant, having an earthy taste; its alcohol content varies. Alternatively
you may be offered the local beer made from fermented rice or millet. This can be quite tasty, but
the fermented grain is mashed into local water by hand – either of which may be unclean. The
alcohol may eliminate some bacteria but not all.
In shops and lodges close to civilization you can buy bottles of coca-cola, sprite etc,
bottles of beer, and Kukhri brand rum. If you are lucky you may find a tin of instant coffee,
otherwise tea is widely available. But the one drink you are unlikely to find on off-the-beaten-trail
routes is bottled water, so be prepared. (See health/safety)

Rates for accommodation, food, and local guides

There are fixed rates in teashop lodges. In 2015 expect to pay around Rs150 for astandard dal-bhaat meal. Double this is you eat meat, or if you are high up in a remote area
where ingredients have to be portered in. For sleeping you may be charged about Rs100 perperson per night.
In the homestays there may be fixed rates, or they may ask you to give what you think. As
a general guide offer around Rs200 per person per night. This is more than the teashop lodges,
but the investment in a room, beds, linen, and an improved toilet is high for poor families, andthey need to recoup this money as quickly as possible. For the food we suggest a minimum ofRs150 for a vegetarian dal-bhaat, but as a rule of thumb increase this by Rs50 for every day thatyou walk beyond motorized transport.
You are of course welcome to pay more than these minimum rates but do not be
excessive since this raises unrealistic expectations for the future. If the family heat up water sothat you can take a bucket shower, or if they boil water for drinking, offer them something for the
firewood used.
Trekking agencies have fixed rates for the hire of their guides and porters – expect to pay
around Rs2000-3000 per day all-in. When hiring locally in a village there are no set rates, andwhat they ask will depend upon demand and precedence. Offering a porter or guide Rs1000 a
day plus food and snacks (and accommodation if required) should provide fair compensation–
but you may have to pay more at festival times. If they guide you for a full day’s journey, it is only
fair to cover their return journey. Most guides are willing to carry your rucksack if asked, but may
expect additional compensation.

Cash and security

There are ATM machines in Pokhara, Baglung (bazar), and Beni, but nothing beyond
these, so carry wads of rupees in cash with you. Shopkeepers in small settlements might bewilling to change dollar notes but don’t rely upon it.
One of the advantages of going off-the-beaten is that theft and other crimes arepractically zero. In fact their honesty is legendary. Over the years we have accidently left
cameras, binoculars, and money wallets at resting spots, only to have breathless villagers run
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after us to hand them back. Nevertheless it is wise to take sensible precautions with your moneyand belongings and not tempt an opportunistic thief or child.
Nepal is an extremely safe place for women trekkers, and on the trails described in thisguidebook there is no need to be suspicious or worried if you encounter local men in a lonely
spot of forest. It is not, however, advisable to trek alone – even if you are male. Just one small
slip in an unguarded moment can send you over the edge. Every year hundreds of trekkers meetwith minor falls, and one or two of them die.
Please note: The statements above concerning theft do not apply to the major trekking
routes and tourist destinations – although they used to. Unfortunately the sheer numbers of
tourists and the quantity of high-value equipment and money which they carry has attracted lesshonest elements from outside the local communities. Compared to many countries, the risk oftheft in Nepal is still low, but be careful, especially in crowded urban areas.

Health, safety, and first aid

The most likely sickness to hit a trekker is a water-borne diarrhoeal disease of some kind.
Assume that all water sources are unclean, even those with pipes and cement tapstands. Either
use water-purification pills or request your host to boil some water for you to drink. Nepalis
commonly eat food with their hands but unless you have access to clean water, plentiful soap or
surgical gel, this can be another source of contamination. It is not impolite to request a spoon.
Dehydration is the next most common risk, leaving one feeling faint and weak. Make sure
you drink plenty of fluids, especially if you are suffering from diarrhoea. It is helpful to carry somerehydration packs in case of need. These are available in pharmacies and may even be available
in small health centres along the trail. If not, the solution can be made by taking 3 cups of clean
boiled water, adding 1 tablespoon of sugar, and a pinch of salt.
Altitude sickness is a serious condition, but rare below 4000 metres altitude. You will
however find yourself out of breath initially on the climbs above 2500 m. The symptoms ofaltitude sickness – headache, breathlessness, nausea – are similar to other illnesses andconditions, and are not necessarily a sign to take immediate action and descend - unless the
person becomes confused. The best antidote to altitude sickness is to acclimatize slowly. Altitude
sickness hits the young and fit more than the old and unfit. The reason is that the former groupare able to walk much faster and thus do not realize their body’s need to acclimatize. The most
iimportant treatment is to descend as rapidly as possible.
Blizzard October 2014
In the peak trekking season of October 2014, when normally the skies are blue andtemperatures mild, an unseasonably cold and wet weather mass hit Nepal (the tail end of acyclone), causing heavy blizzards and ferocious winds in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri region.
43 people lost their lives and 514 were rescued by helicopter, most of them on the Thorung La
pass (5416m) on the Annapurna Circuit route. Half of the fatalities were foreign trekkers, andhalf were their Nepali guides and porters.
Trekkers criticized the trekking agencies for the inexperienced and ill-equipped guides
and porters. The trekking agencies blamed the government for the lack of weather warnings. The
government blamed ‘trekkers without permits’ who pushed on when they should have hungback. In short, everyone, and no-one, was to blame.
The Government is promising to improve its early warning system and construct
hundreds of shelters, but the pace of action is likely to be glacial. The weather in October 2014
was an extreme event, but every now and then tourists are caught in avalanches, landslides, andearthquakes. Being prepared, and being confident of the right thing to do, can save your life.
One survivor of Thorung La commented: “As a trekker you have a responsibility toyourself, but also to the people who take you there. You must understand that the guides are notas competent as they seem.” An Australian climber on a nearby peak saved himself and his
Sherpa guide by digging a snow cave. His Sherpa, who had summited Everest several times, was11
not aware of this survival tip.

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Skin infections are common and small wounds can easily turn septic if they are notproperly treated. A small tube of antiseptic/antibiotic cream is useful, as well as band-aids. Somepeople carry a course of a broad-spectrum antibiotic with them if traveling to a remote area for a
prolonged period, but to get this you will need to visit a doctor and explain your plans.
Should you fall sick, you will be obliged to self-treat, or return to base, or ask where thenearest health centre lies. Every VDC is supposed to have a health clinic or a health worker ofsome kind. Basic medications may be available, and the advice will generally be sound. Someyears ago I had to have an infected toe nail removed by a village health worker in Dhamja and he
did an excellent job.
Communications while on trek
The penetration of mobile telephone communications into the remote valleys of rural
Nepal has been remarkable. Hardly a village remains that is not in range of a mobile signal. A
local SIM card in your mobile phone can be an economic and useful tool for communicating, notonly in an emergency, but also in calling ahead for accommodation in your proposed
destination. You can even get internet via a local SIM, although it will be very slow. The mobile
service recommended for the widest rural coverage is NTC Namaste.
Keeping up its Hidden Village reputation, Gurjakhani is one of the few villages with nomobile signal! However, there are 3 fixed line public telephones operating via a satellite link, so
telephone contact is possible. Where a Gurjakhani number is given, it is for one of these public
telephones. You can call and the operator will forward your message on foot to the person
concerned.
Code of behaviour
Nepalis are tolerant people as a rule, and make allowances for tourists. However you will
get a friendlier reception the more you can fit in with their code of conduct. The first rule is tosmile. The second rule is to be patient and hold your temper. These are by far the mostimportant. Aside from these try to remember and respect the following: Feet/shoes are unclean. Avoid touching other people with your feet or shoes. Whenentering a home it is a courtesy to remove your shoes and leave them at the entrance.
 Avoid sitting with your legs stretched out and feet pointing at somebody. It is considereddiscourteous to step over someone’s legs (since this is to place yourself above them).
Nepalis nearly always sit cross-legged but most foreigners find this position
uncomfortable after a while. When sitting on the floor (homestays are unlikely to havechairs) it is alright to stretch out your legs away from other people, but make sure you lift
them up when someone wishes to pass by.
 Food or drink which has been touched by your lips or by a hand which has touched yourmouth, is unclean and cannot be eaten by others. To save wasting food, request asmaller portion initially while it is still ritually clean. You can always request a further
helping later if you are still hungry. It is not considered good manners to share a spoon orplate of food with another, although this is acceptable for dry snacks such as popcorn.
Avoid touching a common vessel of water to your lips.
 Before eating, you are likely to be offered a vessel of water with which to wash yourhands. If Nepalis ask to share your water bottle, they will pour the water down theirthroats without touching their lips to the bottle. This takes some skill to do so withoutchoking.
 For women skimpy shorts and tops are likely to attract stares. If the weather is very hot,then carry a loose sarong which can be quickly wrapped around your bare legs whenentering a village. Otherwise it is better to wear something cool which covers knees and
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shoulders. For men shorts are acceptable when trekking but will not win you any respectwhen entering a government office.
Avoid giving children sweets, pens, or money. It is only along the well-trammeled tourist
routes that they have learned to beg for these items. If you wish to give something special
to the children of your homestay, this is a different matter, although it does start a
precedent and requires careful consideration as to whether it is appropriate. The best gift
you can give them is to spend some time playing with them and talking English. As ageneral rule it is best to give nothing but pay a fair price for the things you consume. If
you feel compelled to give, then a donation to the school will help the whole community.
Nepali people are unused to, and feel uncomfortable with, overt shows of affection
between couples. Try to hold off until you are alone!

Respect the environment
 The teashop lodges described in this book are still dependent upon firewood for cooking
because they lack the capital and income to invest in alternative technology. Be
considerate of the forests (and the labour in gathering the firewood) by coordinating yourorders for cooked food and hot drinks.
 If you need to defecate where there is no latrine, make sure you bury your toilet paperand cover over your poop with dead leaves or straw to deter flies from carrying disease.
Choose a spot away from the walking trail and avoid any sources of water.
 Do not throw litter. Carry it along with you and burn at the end of the day. [You willundoubtedly see a scattering of sweet and biscuit papers along the trail, dropped by
Nepali travellers – and these are in fact useful for indicating that you are on the main
trail].
 Turn off public taps, and shut any gates which you pass through.
 Avoid damaging the flora and fauna – though you will inevitably squash a few bugs as you
walk along. In national parks, no picking of flowers is allowed.
 Be careful not to carelessly start a fire.

3. MORE ABOUT HIDDEN VILLAGE
History

The name Gurja Khani derives from the word Khannu - to dig/mine - and it was thesearch for copper ore which first brought explorers of the Chantyal tribe into the Dhaula valley
over two hundred years ago. Place-names scattered through Baglung and Myagdi districts suchas Sisa Khani, Phalam Khani, Gurja Khani, record for posterity the unique history of mining in thismid-western belt of Nepal. Chinese pilgrims visiting Nepal in medieval times reported on
significant exports of Nepali copper to Tibet and India. But it was during the later Rana period(1850-1950) that mining really expanded, with ores such as lead, copper, tin, and iron being
extracted in this area.
According to their oral history, Chantyal people moved northwards from Gulmi district into
Baglung, establishing mines in many of the higher valleys, including Dhorpatan. From Dhorpatan
they continued north-eastwards, discovering further seams of copper in the rocks lining theDhaula valley at the foot of Gurja Himal. Today’s villagers recall that the explorers identified newsites for mining not just by searching for the quartz veins containing copper, but also by theirsense of smell.
The Chantyal people were followed to Gurja by a distinctly different ethnic group – theKami people, one of the artisan castes of Nepal. Mining was a partnership between these two –the Chantyals of Tibeto-Mongolian ethnicity, and the Kami blacksmiths of Indo-Aryan. While the13

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exploration and mining was done by the Chantyals, it was the Kami people who were guardians of
the knowledge for purifying copper and the skills for working it into utensils.
Originally the miners lived in makeshift shelters, sleeping under rock overhangs or intents of bamboo matting or wool, but as the seams of ore proved productive they began to build
more permanent dwellings. Locals estimate that the settlement of Gurja Khani was establishedby their forefathers some eight generations ago – most likely around the beginning of the 19th
century. In 2014 the last of the Chantyal miners of Gurja Khani died at the reported age of 100
years, but mining ceased much earlier, around 70-80 years ago when the mines became
uneconomic with the import of aluminium utensils from India. Above Gurja Khani and across thegorge, old mine tunnels remain hidden in forest. Some can still be seen and visited. Many of themines seem to have been at high and inaccessible spots on precipitous cliffs or craggy mountaintops.
Life must have been miserable for the miners. The tunnels which remain visible haveextremely narrow rock entrances; water seeps continuously through their walls, filling them withpools of water so that miners had to squirm along on their tummies through pools of water attemperatures near freezing point – and in the winter months they must have become iced. The
copper ore deposits in the region south of Dhaulagiri are mostly chalcopyrite, occurring in quartz
veins in the dominant phylite rocks, and the miners’ task was to follow these quartz veins,chipping away by hand. For illumination they would carry a lighted straw in their mouths as they
wriggled forward to the face where they would chip away with crude hand tools. Presumably
there was no method for air ventilation, and there is no sign of any attempt to shore up the walls.
Locals say there is an extensive labyrinth of tunnels in the rocks above Gurja Khani village, some
cutting right through the ridge from the south face to emerge below a cliff on the east slope.
If there was a flat spot the ore was processed close to the mine working, otherwise it was
carried down to the village. Portering was the women’s job. At the height of the mining era there
must have been a constant stream of women with doko loads of ore on their backs scrambling
down unforgiving scree slopes near cliffs or slithering on muddy tracks through dense wet
vegetation.
The next step was to grind the rocks containing the ore to a fine powder. The powder was
sluiced in water, which allowed the denser metallic particles to sink to the bottom of the pan.
Cow dung was mixed with these particles, rolled into balls and left to dry. This much was done by
the Chantyal; then the Kami metal-workers took over. Using bellows made of goatskins toachieve the necessary temperatures, the balls were fired in charcoal furnaces. The dung would
burn and the metal ore would reduce the copper sulphates and oxides to metallic copper which
would liquefy and flow out of the fire in runnels forming crude ingots on cooling. These were soldor worked into utensils. Most of the copper from Gurja Khani was taken to Takam (See Trail
Guide: Route One) for sale where Thakhali merchants controlled the trade.
There are four sites around Gurja Khani where you can see old copper mine tunnels: Jemba – above and east of the village
 Burkhani – directly above village
 Arho – below and east of the village
 Kumse – directly across Dhaula river from village
The best ones to visit are Burkhani and Kumse. Locals will be willing to guide you to them, but
entering the tunnels is entirely at your own risk. .No inspection of their safety has been carriedout since they were abandoned, and wild animals may use them as lairs. If you decide to take therisk, a head torch is essential – and a ball of string to find your way out, as the tunnels above thevillage are reputed to have various forks in them. Nearby the tunnels you can see the spots
where no plants grow. These are where the refining was carried out, and the tailings remain.

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The village today

Lying on a narrow shelf of land wedged between the cliffs of the Dhaula gorge and thesouthern flanks of Gurja Himal, the village basks in sunshine most of the short winter days. It
currently comprises around 230 households; 160 being Chantyals, and 70 Bishwakarma (Kami).
The village is so compact that the corner slates of one roof almost touch those of theadjoining street. Alley-ways twist and turn through the labyrinth, some so narrow that oxen canbarely squeeze through when they go out to plough. At intervals the maze opens into stoneflagged courtyards where children play, old women weave blankets, and grain is spread to dry. In
the artisan quarter in the lower western quadrant, space is particularly tight so some families
have begun to build on the steep slope above, saving the flatter ground for crops. All the houses
are stone with a mud mortar, some with a façade of ochre-mud. The most striking feature of theolder houses are their intricately carved wooden windows. (see Box).
When the village becomes snow-bound in the months of January and February, thevillagers descend with their animals to temporary dwellings near the river. Recently, this custom
has begun to change, partly because the severity and duration of snowfall has become less overthe past few years – a symptom of climate change – and partly because with the arrival ofelectricity a few years ago, some villagers prefer to endure the snow and enjoy lighting in thevillage rather than descend to their un-wired winter shelters.
The village benefits from a strong sense of community and solidarity. You will find thevillagers friendly and open, willing to answer tourists’ questions and help in whatever way theycan. But please be considerate: they are also very busy with the constant demands of herding
and cultivation and the practicalities of life.
The Carved Windows of Gurja Khani
The carved windows of Gurja Khani are a memorial to the skills and values of anartisanal community. While simpler than the celebrated Newari windows of Kathmandu
valley, these ones decorate the everyday small cottages of peasant farmers. The designs
and structure vary from twin and triple windows, to small single squares. Their motifs aretaken from the natural world – sun, moon, stars, flowers, trees – and there is no overt
religious symbolism. They appear to be motivated simply by the desire to make something
beautiful and functional. One or two Chantyal men still retain the wood-carving skills, butthese are in danger of being lost since the more recent homes have plain windows.

Practical Information

 Homestays:- There are currently no tourist lodges in Gurja Khani but homestays are in theprocess of being developed. The following families already have the capacity to provide
food and lodging to trekkers: Mohan Chantyal; Jhak Chantyal; Sita Chantyal (shop).
Accommodation will be a small private room with a bed, a fairly hard mattress, and beddingin the form of a thick cotton duvet (serac). Every home has a pit latrine in their courtyard
and some have their own tapstand.
 The village has its own small hydro-electric plant which supplies electricity during the hours
or darkness, and sometimes during daylight hours. Homestays will have sockets where
electronic gadgets can be re-charged.
 It also has a piped drinking water system though it is not advised to drink this water
without boiling or filtering. There are plans to install public solar-heated hot showers in thenear future.
 There are 3-4 small shops in the village selling basic food stuffs such as flour, rice, sugar,
spices, tea, biscuits, boiled sweets, drinks such as mango juice, coca cola, beer, and
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spirits, and household items such as soap, torches, and shoes. Eggs and fruit areoccasionally available.
Currently there are no mobile phone networks which reach the village, but there are threetelephones which link via satellite (See Section 2 TREKKING ADVICE/Communications)
The local school goes up to 10th class, and there is also a government Health Post withseveral health workers and beds, though it is limited what they can do in a serious
emergency.
A few people in the village speak elementary English. If you need help with translation, it isbest to find a student, a teacher, one of the health workers, or someone who has worked in
the Middle East.
There is a Tourism Development Committee whose members will be happy to help organize
guides for you and facilitate your other activities. Contact: Jhak Bahadur Chantyal

Tourist activities

Gurja Khani is a pleasant spot to rest and spend a few days. The following activities may bepossible to arrange depending on time and availability:1. Village craft tour A. During the tour you will view and learn all about the process of
spinning, weaving, and felting. Contact: Mother’s Group
2. Village craft tour B. During the tour you will visit the best of the carved windows, see ademonstration by one of the locals who still has the skills in wood carving. You will also
visit a blacksmith’s forge, understand more of their current work. (Contact: Metal-workers
Laxman Bika; Dhani Bika; Jaule BiKa).
3. Short walk to apple orchards and Gurja Himal viewpoint. A gentle uphill walk of 30-45
minutes to the west of the village takes one through some apple orchards to reach a
viewpoint onto Gurja Himal.
4. Visit to copper mines and upper viewpoint for Gurja Himal. The suggested itinerary is towalk up the ridge to the north east of the village. A flat break in the slope is reached inabout 2 hours from where the whole of the south face of Gurja Himal is visible. On the
return journey, descend through the forest where the old mine entrances lie.
Alternatively, you can cross the Dhaula river and ascend to a different old mining sitewhere a tunnel may be entered (at your own risk) for several metres. From here, one canhike higher to get a viewpoint for photographs which includes the village and the wholesouth face of Gurja Himal. For a guide, contact.
5. Pony trekking westwards up the Dhaula valley. If you wish to reach all the way to theChuren Himal base camp (also the approach used when Gurja was climbed by theJapanese expedition) this will involve an overnight camp out. Contact:
6. Walks. Flora/fauna/bird watching. With a guide. Will explain the uses of important forest
species. Medicinal plants, yarsa gumpa, sea buckthorn, etc.
7. A visit to the school or the health post can be arranged with the Head Teacher or Health
Post in Charge.
8. Cultural programme. The school or Mothers Group are happy to put on a cultural programof songs and dances in the evening for an agreed fee. 24 hours’ notice is needed.

Farming and other occupations

With mining a distant memory, the present-day villagers of Gurja Khani depend largely on
subsistence agriculture. Scraping a living in this environment requires an incessant round of daily
toil. Over the years every scrap of cultivable land up and down the valley has been turned into
fields– small far-flung terraces up to four hours’ walk from the village. Staple crops are maize,
millet, buckwheat and potatoes, with barley or wheat grown as an additional spring crop on thewarm sun-bathed fields surrounding the village. Vegetables are grown during the summer
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months, especially items such as radishes and pumpkins which can be dried and stored throughthe winter.
Herding is a vital and integral part of the farming cycle. Buffalo are kept for milk, sheep
and goats for their wool, while cows are kept purely to manure the fields. In the wet summer
months the animals ascend to high-altitude pastures on the slopes of Gurja and Churen Himal.
In the winter months they are quartered in temporary folds on the village fields, their droppings
fertilizing the soil for the next crop. The herders sleep year round with their animals wherever
they may be. They are mostly old men, assisted by a grandson - a hardy lot who think nothing of
sleeping in sub-zero temperatures under a woolen blanket draped over a stick frame. Their large
black and tan sheepdogs are a familiar sight around the village and a necessary guard againstnight predators.
Women spin the wool from their flocks, creating thick wool blankets and jackets which
are worn by the men. After weaving the woolen strips on backstrap looms in their courtyards, it is
the men’s job to felt the wool. This is done by soaking the woven strip in water, rolling it into atight ball, and kneading it with their feet. As you wander around the village you are bound to seesome women engaged in these tasks.
Only three Kami families remain engaged as blacksmiths, serving the villagers’need for
kukhri knives, sickles/scythes, and cooking pots. The single household of Damai work as tailors
for the village population. In both cases, payment remains the traditional system whereby eachhousehold pays an annual retainer fee in grain (dependent on their size and wealth), rather thana job-by-job payment.
Further sources of cash income are the gathering of medicinal herbs including yarsa
gumpa, alo fibre (a type of stinging nettle), and, most importantly , the remittances of foreign
workers, although Gurja Khani is less affected by this recent trend than many other villages.
Nepal’s migrant workers
Labour has become Nepal’s major export. The number of men working outside thecountry continues to grow and nearly half of all Nepali households have at least one
member working abroad. Altogether there are believed to be nearly two million Nepalis
working overseas, the most popular destinations being Gulf countries and Malaysia.
Migrant workers can earn 3-4 times the average Nepali wage. While their remittances
provide a vital source of cash income, the men’s absence puts a tremendous burden ofwork onto women – and children.
The men jokingly refer to their work as 3D – dirty, dangerous, and difficult. They
arrive to start work unaware of the climate, the identity of their employer, their rights, thelocal language, culture, social norms, rules and regulations. In Qatar in 2014, Nepali
workers died at the rate of one every two days, largely from heat-associated cardiac arrest
and accidents at work. In Kuwait, there are believed to be 28,000 undocumented Nepali
women workers. The Nepali Embassy has helped to remove over two thousand whocomplained of abuse at work, and there are currently 135 women sheltering at the
Embassy awaiting permission from Kuwait to leave the country.
Despite the horror stories, queues at recruitment agencies remain long, and mostrural schoolboys aspire to a job in the Gulf. The agencies have made enormous profits,some bogus agents disappearing with the hefty enrolment fees, leaving the would-be
worker and his family with massive debts

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Social and development challenges

The local school goes up to 10th grade when children sit their SLC (School Leaving
Certificate). Higher education requires children to board in a larger settlement. School enrolment
is high in the early years, but absenteeism and drop-out increases during the teenage years.
Pressure from families to help with herding means that students from low-income families may
miss weeks of classes during the school year. Eventually they fall so far behind their peers thatthey drop out altogether. Girls are vulnerable to early arranged marriages which forces them toleave school before completion.
Although the village has a government Health Post, the difficulties in providing quality
health care in a remote outpost are highlighted by the fact that three young mothers have died inchildbirth in recent years. This not only reflects the challenges of remoteness and the poor
standard of the government health system, but also the tremendous work load which womencarry. Their lower status combined with their menfolk’s fondness for alcohol, makes some ofthem vulnerable to domestic violence.
Agriculture and livestock husbandry, as practiced in Gurjakhani over the centuries,
features environmentally sustainable techniques of terracing, irrigation, crop rotation, and use ofnatural compost fertilizers. The vast local forest resources have also been managed sustainably,with firewood and tree fodder collection controlled and shifted to allow natural recovery andregrowth. With increasing population, comes increasing pressure on soil, water, and forest
resources – there is a limit to the population that can be supported by this fragile, high altitudeenvironment.
The future of Gurjakhani very much depends on the hopes and aspirations of the young
people. If they spend years of their lives working abroad (see Box Nepal’s Migrant Workers) in avery different culture and lifestyle, will they later return to their remote home village and a
traditional life of subsistence agriculture and herding, or will they seek greater opportunities fortheir families in the cities of Nepal? Some individuals have returned, determined to invest theirsavings locally. Pro-poor tourism seeks to provide such business opportunities, enabling families
to live an improved quality of life in their traditional homes.

Beliefs

Gurja Khani has been nicknamed the ‘village of the temples’. It is true that every
possible approach is guarded by a small temple, a sacred tree or rock; every footpath is strewn
with leafplates from some ritual ceremony. The extraordinary high number of temples andshrines which encircle the village are perhaps less a sign of their devotion to Hinduism, than theirsense of isolation and vulnerability to the myriad malevolent spirits hiding in the forests, rocks,
and rivers ready to wreak mischief. Nominally the inhabitants are Hindus, but in most practices
they are shamanists. Their shamans are referred to as lama, and one of their roles is to treat illhealth by identifying and exorcising the evil spirit which is causing the sickness. To do so they go
into a trance and become possessed by the malignant spirit, speaking with its voice and giving
instructions to the patient what they must do to be free.
A few people in the village have become Christians. They have constructed a small
church about 15 minutes east of the main village in a small outlier settlement overlooking theDhaula gorge.

4. DHAULAGIRI ZONE – topography, history, and culture
Topography

The trails described in this guide lie in Baglung and Myagdi districts, part of Dhaulagiri
zone in the mid-western part of Nepal. Filled with the crumpled scenery of what is often referred18

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to as the deepest gorge in the world, Dhaulagiri zone straddles the Kali Gandaki river as it carves
through the Himalayas. Guarding the western side of the canyon the imposing silhouette of
Dhaulagiri I (8167 metres) is the 7th highest mountain in the world. It is followed westwards byeight lesser-known peaks, but all over 7,000 metres (Dhaulagiri II – VI, Churen, Pyutha, andGurja). The Dhaulagiri range offers trekkers all the photographic splendor of the Annapurnas, yet
the area remains less visited by foreigners, and less developed in general. For many people thisadds to its appeal .
Dhaulagiri I
Its name derives from the Sanskrit word dhawala meaning dazzling, white, beautiful,and giri meaning mountain. At 8,167 metres (26,795 feet), it is the seventh highest mountainin the world. Standing on its own, its rise from lower terrain is almost unequalled – 7000
metres from the Kali Gandaki river 30 kms south-east of the peak. Its south and west faces
rise precipitously over 4000 metres. Dhaulaigiri I was first climbed by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali
expedition in 1960. Despite many attempts, its stupendous south face remains unclimbed –one of the greatest remaining challenges in alpinism.
Gurja Himal
Twelve other peaks in the Dhaulagiri range lie over 7000 metres, including Gurja Himal(7193m/23,599 feet). The south face of Gurja Himal is notably immense, similar to
Dhaulagiri’s south face. Gurja Himal was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1969 fromthe west side.

Profile of Baglung District
 District capital is Baglung bazar, close to the Kali Gandaki river in the eastern border.
In shape the district resembles Nepal, stretches long way east to west.
 Industries: Considerable forest resources. Highest point is Gumti Pahar (or above
Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve). Dominant ethnic/caste groups: Chhettri and Magars
 Population:
 Ethnic groups/castes: Brahmins, Chhettris, Magars, Chantyals, Dalits (Damai, Kami,
Sarki), Newars and Thakhalis in urban areas
 Highest point: Lowest point: Mining. Kami.
 Main occupations: subsistence farming Other sources of income: forest products, remittances
 History: old trading entrepot on major India/Tibet trading route. Mining of copper,
slate, tin, lead, iron.
 Points of interest: Kalika temple (near Baglung bazar) and annual Chaitra Dashain
fair; Galkot old fort/residence of ex King of Galkot; Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve(species include blue sheep, snow leopard; bridges

Ethnic and caste groups

Nepal presents the amateur anthropologist with a baffling complexity of ethnic groups (over123 different languages), superimposed by the Hindu caste system. Broadly speaking, as Aryan
people migrated into Nepal from the south and west they brought with them the Hindu religion
and caste system. In the mountain areas they encountered a variety of Tibeto-Mongolian tribes
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practising Shamanism or Buddhism. These people the Aryans assigned to a middle category ofcaste, and over time many of them adopted elements of the discriminatory caste system, thoughnever to the same degree. These myriad ‘middle’ tribes are sometimes labeled janajati – anumbrella term used in India for indigenous people. But to term these indigenous is not strictly
accurate, for the Himalayas have seen traffic in all directions, and some of these ethnic groups –e.g. Sherpas - have migrated into Nepal quite recently.
To simplify things greatly, it is helpful to think in terms of three major groupings oftribes/castes:
1. Dalits – comprises artisan caste groups (assumed to be of Aryan or Dravidian ethnicity)such as Kami (metal-workers), Damai (tailors/musicians), Sarki (cobblers/leather
tanners), Sunar (goldsmiths), Gaini (itinerant minstrels), and other
2. Janajati – comprises all the Tibeto-Mongolian ethnic groups including Newar, Sherpa,
Magar, Tamang, Gurung, Rai, Limbu, Thakkali, Chantyal, Tharu etc,
3. Brahmin/Chhettri. Of Aryan ethnicity.
At the top of the social pecking order, is the priestly caste of Brahmins. Despite strides
towards equality, Brahmins still dominate Parliament and the government civil service. Their
entrenched status is demonstrated by the fact that they head nearly all the political parties, fromthe extreme left to the extreme right. Yet occasionally in rural areas one encounters Brahminfamilies living below the poverty line. High status does not necessarily equate with wealth.
The term ‘dalit’ has been recently adopted in Nepal by the people themselves. Literally itmeans ‘those who are oppressed’. Formerly these people suffered the even more discriminatorylabels of untouchables and low-castes. In India, they are categorized as scheduled or
occupational castes for official purposes, and Gandhi gave them the title of harijans (tr: sons ofGod). In this Guide we sometimes use the less discriminatory term artisans – reflecting the skillsof these people e.g. blacksmiths, cobblers, tailors, musicians, jewelers. Traditionally, one wasborn into a caste with a specific trade or skill, and that was how one earned a livelihood, although
nowadays these are dying out.
Caste discrimination particularly relates to food and drink. No-one of a higher caste may eat
food cooked (or served) by a person of lower caste. No-one of lower caste may enter the home ofa higher caste. These customs are beginning to change, but old prejudices die hard. In Baglungand Myagdi districts, social status still largely controls who lives where, with ‘higher’ castes
owning land in the fertile valleys, and other castes the less-fertile and steeper slopes at higher
altitudes.
Caste, gender, and ethnicity are sensitive issues in Nepal as the status quo of centuries isbeing challenged and overturned. While this happens the politically-correct terminology isconstantly changing. Terms such as high-caste and low-caste are no longer acceptable, yet thediscrimination which accompanies them still exists and cannot be glossed over by annullingthose terms. The words used in this guide are not intended to cause offence or to sustain
discrimination, but rather to recognize that some groups have suffered significant prejudice anddiscrimination in the past – and remain disadvantaged in the present. Dalits are always among
the poorest households in rural society, with few productive resources, their children less likely tocomplete their school education due to the demands of earning a living.
Baglung has the highest incidence of dalits in the whole of Nepal, due to the large number ofmetal-workers (Kami) who settled here to work the mineral ores. It is also common to find asmall community of artisans living close to Brahmin villages. Under traditional codes, Brahmins
may not use oxen to plough their fields due to its sacred nature. To get around this taboo, they
employ someone from a lower caste to do their ploughing.

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Brahmin: The priestly caste. The men wear a sacred thread. The strictest ones are vegetarians
and will not eat food cooked by people outside their family. They greatly value education and thishas allowed them to dominate the government civil service. In rural areas they are farmers,
shopkeepers, and money-lenders as well as being priests. You can recognize a Brahmin home by
the presence of a tulasi (basil family) bush growing in a container in the courtyard.

Chantyal: The Chantyal are one of the smallest ethnic groups in Nepal, numbering around
10,000. Of Tibeto-Mongolian origin, they are today found exclusively in Baglung and Myagdi
districts. Since they are commonly found mingled within Magars and resemble them in looks andmanners, they are often erroneously referred to as Chantyal Magars, but their language has
greater affinity with Thakkali and Gurung than with either of the Magar languages. Only around2000 people are believed to still speak the Chantyal tongue, and Gurja Khani is one of the few
villages where it can be heard.
Chhettri: The largest caste in Nepal representing 16% of the population, though they are aheterogenous group. Some are descendants of Aryan Khas people who moved eastwards into
Nepal; others are the descendants of mixed marriages between Brahmins and Magars. It is also
known that in the past some powerful Magars were awarded the honour of becoming Chhettri.
Like Brahmins they commonly keep a tulasi plant in their courtyard
Damai: An artisan caste of tailors, who also double as musicians for weddings and funerals!
With the influx of ready-made clothes and women from other castes entering the tailoringbusiness, few of them can earn a living from sewing these days.

Kami: An artisan caste of black-smiths, also known by their surname Bishwakarma or Bika (B.K.)
for short. In the past it was common to hear the tap-tap of their hammers ringing across thevalleys as they mended metal pots, sickles, hoes, kukhri knives, and plough-heads. Now thatsound has become rare, replaced by factory-made implements. It is hard for them to survive on
subsistence farming since their landholdings are so small.

Magar : The largest Tibeto-Mongolian ethnic group in Nepal, Magars comprise some 7% of thetotal population. They are spread through the mid-western districts with considerable numbers in
Baglung district. Most speak Magar language, except in Baglung district where this has been lost.
The reason was an edict by the Raja of Galkot (based at Harichaur in the Tara Khola valley)placing a tax on people who did not speak the Nepali language – his way of sniffing out
opposition to his rule. The Kham Magars who live west of Baglung in Rukum and Rolpa districts
still speak their own distinct language and may be a totally unrelated group of people. Many
Magars have been recruited into the Gurkha battalions of the British and Indian armies over theyears. Despite their Gurkha soldier reputation, Magars are among the most gentle, friendly, andendearing people you will meet in Nepal. They are renowned for their bravery, honesty, andstrong community spirit.

Newar: A Tibeto-Mongolian ethnic group having their own language. Small numbers of them areshopkeepers and business entrepreneurs in the larger urban settlements of Baglung and Myagdi.
Originally from the Kathmandu valley, their ancestors fled the invasion of Prithvi Narayan Shah(he spread terror by cutting off the noses of the Newars of Kirtipur) in the 18th century.
Sarki: An artisan caste of cobblers. There is a large community living just below Baglung bazar.

Thakhali: A Tibeto-Mongolian group from the Thak Khola valley (upper Kali Gandaki). In the winterthey used to descend to warmer altitudes where they would erect small teashops along the major
porter trails. When we first lived in Baglung there was no roadlink and one had to walk for 2 days.
Along the trail there were thousands of porters carrying loads and the route was strewn withsmall temporary open-walled teashops called bhatti, run by Thakhali women, at which travellers
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could buy food, and even sleep the night. Though simple in style, the Thakhali women kept them
immaculately clean, and their food was renowned. Nowadays most Thakhali have settled in
Pokhara with the profits from tourism. But some remain in Thak Khola, and others are stillrunning teashop lodges in small settlements in Baglung and Myagdi districts.
Reforestation: A success story
Until 1990 most of the forests were under government control. Nobody cared aboutsustainability; corruption was rife, and deforestation was rapid. Following the People’s
Revolution of 1990, a great effort was made to build awareness on the theme: Hamro ban,hamro dhan (our forests are our wealth) and to place them under community management.
All over the country Forest Users Committees (majority women) control and monitor
the cutting of trees in their local forests, setting quotas on what type of wood may begathered and how frequently. It has taken time, but it is fair to say that this has been one of
the most visibly successful of all development initiatives. Any flight over Nepal bears
testimony to the amount of regrowth over the past 2-3 decades.

Flora and fauna

The trekker who ventures into these areas will be rewarded with a great diversity of floraand fauna. All of the treks described start from the Kali Gandaki river at around 1000 metres.
This valley is not only an important migration route for birds such as demoiselle cranes, but also
a dividing line for species of flora and fauna, since the western half of the country receives lessrainfall than the eastern half. For most of its route the river is deeply incised and it is stillcommon to see vultures soaring effortlessly beside its cliffs.
Flora

At the lowest elevations much of the land is farmed, but in the valley gorges and cliffs
there are pockets of sub-tropical forests with broad-leaved species and bamboos (planted).
Above 2000 metres the vegetation changes to temperate forests, dominated by oaks andrhododendrons. In the Tara Khola valley of Baglung District there remains a large virgin forest
cloaking a series of 3000 metre peaks, and a similar area of virgin forest lies on the north-facing
slopes of the Dhaula Khola gorge. A vegetation belt of canes commonly occurs around 2500
metres. Besides being an important source of food for the Himalayan Panda, the canes are used
for construction purposes, and as walking sticks.
Above 3000m trees begin to thin out with the colder temperatures and the vegetation
shifts to sub-alpine and alpine with grassy meadows, shrubs such as junipers, and occasional
stands of coniferous trees and birch. The treeline lies at around 3600 metres. Above 5000
metres there is little in the way of vegetation. In between these two altitudes lie extensive alpine
grasslands interspersed with rocky crags – much of them nowadays being designated as theDhorpatan Hunting Reserve – home to herds of wild ungulates such as the Blue Sheep and theHimalayan Serow and their predator, the elusive Snow Leopard. In the summer season an
additional 80,000 domestic livestock enter the Reserve accompanied by their herders.
There is such a vast array of indigenous trees and plants in the region that if you areseriously interested you should invest in a botanical guide. Here, we highlight just a few points:
1. Do not miss the opportunity to take a guided walk at Gurja Khani to learn about the wide
range of plants which are eaten or used for medicinal or other purposes.
2. The flowering of the rhododendrons (March to early May) is a sight not to be missed,
when the forests are transformed from sober green into an extravaganza of scarlet andcrushed pink. There are many varieties, some of which grow into mature forest trees.
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They are found in a band 1500-3600m, with the red-flowering variety (the national flowerof Nepal known as Lali gurans) found at the lower altitudes.
3. In the forests there are some spectacular wild orchids which flower during and
immediately after the rainy season. Even into late November some of them will still be inflower. Look for them on the branches and trunks of forest trees.
4. Stands of the Himalayan Cedar tree on the ridge between Lulang and Gurja Khani (SeeBox under Route One). One of the giants of the temperate forests, it can grow up to 80
metres.
5. At lower elevations the village paths are ablaze with scarlet poinsettias and marigolds. In
fact, neither of these plants are indigenous, but the flowers are popular at festival times.
Lokta - the paper plantBaglung District is famous for its traditional paper made from the shrubby tree
Daphne papyracea which grows among its extensive oak-rhododendron forests between
1700-3500 metres altitude. In early spring the shrub produces pale pink flowers which giveoff a strong fragrance, and members of the genus are commonly planted as an ornamental
shrub elsewhere. The fine paper, made from the inner bark of the tough fibrous stems, isrenowned for its durability and resistance to tearing, humidity, insects and mildew. For
hundreds of years it has been used for official government records, while the oldest surviving
piece – possibly 2000 years old – contains a sacred text.
A UNICEF supported project promoted the Baglung-based paper to a wider market,
but the source forests became badly depleted. Some paper is still made locally and you may
spot its distinctive drying racks beside rivers. The typical process is to harvest (pruning) thestems and porter them down to lower altitudes near rivers for further processing. The stems
are soaked, beaten, and mixed with caustic soda to soften them. The pulp is then mixed witha water solution and caught on flat mesh trays which are placed at angles to dry in the sun.

Fauna

The list of animals is very long since the area includes the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve(DHR). The following presents a selection of the larger mammals, likely to be familiar to locals.
The Nepali name is given in brackets:-

Generally above 3500m
 Snow leopard (Hiu chitwa or ‘seto kira’). Endangered. Alpine zone up to 5600m. Preys onblue sheep, tahr, goral, marmots, domestic livestock, and birds such as partridges,
 Blue sheep (Naur) Alpine zone. 3500-5500 m.
 Tibetan sheep (Nayan, Argali) Alpine zone; meadows or light forests. 3000-5000 m.
 Brown bear (Khairo Bhalu). Grassy slopes above the tree line close to the snow.
 Red fox (fyauro) alpine and subalpine meadows up to 5500 m
 Wolf (bwaso). Endangered. Listed as present in DHR.
 Musk deer (Kasturi mirga). Endangered. 3000-4600 metres. Survives the snow by
feeding on lichen. Hunted in the past for their musk which is used in perfumes.
 Himalayan marmot. 3500-5200m. Alpine meadows. Lives in burrows.
More likely below 3500m
 Himalayan Panda (Habre, Or). Temperate forest with canes on which it feeds.
 Lynx (Pahar Biralo).Alpine and sub-alpine terrain, but descends in winter to 2000m
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Himalayan Ghoral (Ghoral). Steep grassy hillsides or mixed deciduous forests, 300-3000,
sometimes up to 4000 m.
Wild Boar (Bandel) Habitat: forests and fields from tropical to temperate range.
Himalayan Black bear (Himali kalo bhalu) Winter: temperate forests around 1500m;
Summer: sub-alpine near the treeline 3000-3600 m.
Himalayan Tahr (Jharal). Temperate and subalpine forest on precipitous slopes 15005300 metres but mostly around 2000-4500 m.
Himalayan Serow (Thar).1800-3000 m. Steep, rugged slopes covered by dense oakrhododendron forest, and grassy meadows. Common around Gurja.
Barking deer/Muntjac (Ratuwa, Raate). Forest dwellers. Tropical up to temperate zone.
Common leopard (Chitwa). Wide range of habitats from tropical up to 4000 m.
Jackal (syal). Scavenger. Hunt rodents, reptiles and sometimes small deer. Wide range
Langur monkeys (langur). Temperate forests and cultivated fields. Up to 3600m.
Yellow-throated marten. Broad-leaved and coniferous forests in hilly terrain up to 2500m
Stone marten (Mau khane?). Wide range of habitats 1500-4000 m.
Common mongoose (nyauri musa). Tropical to temperate, often near cultivation.

However, you will be extremely lucky to set eyes on any of these! During years of trekking
in this region, the only mammals which we have spotted are a large wild boar which galloped past
me on the pass to Dhorpatan (2014), and years ago a pair of Himalayan pandas on a disused
trail between Baglung and Pokhara. This was before the road was built and, if they have any
sense, the pandas are long gone from that spot. In Baglung in the early 90s, packs of scavenging
jackals used to invade the bazaar on nights with a full moon, and one night a large cat bit thethroat of our dog and carried off her puppy. Farmers in Gurja Khani and similar remote villages
report bears eating their maize, and leopards taking young lambs. But realistically, the only
animal which you have a chance of seeing is the langur monkey with its graceful long tail anddistinctive sooty face. Look out for them in autumn in the lower altitudes close to the fields where
they like to steal the grain.
Besides mammals there are many varieties of reptiles (snakes, lizards) and insects, but
none of these represent any danger to a trekker. While the mammals will be hiding, the birds are
not so shy, and the early morning hours from 6-9 am are the best for bird watching. Even without
binoculars you will spot many while trekking. For those interested it is worth investing in a bird
book. For novices, some of the more spectacular or recognizable ones to look out for are:
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Blue magpie. A large bird with an extremely long tail. Slaty grey with black head andyellow or red bill. Forests. Red-billed up to 1500m; yellow-billed 2000-3600m
Blossom-headed parakeet. 34 cm. Up to 1500m. Green plumage; male has red head;
female black.
Himalayan Tree Pie. 40 cm. Up to 2600m. Shades of grey and brown with long tail.
Noisy with a variety of calls. Forests near habitation
White-cheeked bulbul. 20 cm. Common up to 3000 m. Brown, jaunty crest, white
cheeks, and yellow vent
Impeyan pheasant (danphe). 60 cm. High grassy slopes in summer; forests in winter
2600-4500m. Irridescent feathers of 9 colours, but looks black from a distance. Large
white spot on rump. Found around Gurja Khani. National bird of Nepal.
Paradise flycatcher. Up to 1500m; near villages. Mature males have extremely long tailwhich flutters like a ribbon when they fly. Black head, white body and wings.
Scarlet Minivet (Rani chara). 23 cm. Up to 1800m. In flocks. Males are brilliant scarlet,
and females yellow.
Sunbirds. Small birds with brilliant irridescent plumage (scarlet, purple, or blue-green),
hover like humming birds as they drink nectar through their slim curved bills.
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Verditer flycatcher. 15 cm. Up to 2600m. A striking turquoise colour. Commonly seen
sitting on the very top of trees.
Vultures. The largest is the Lammergeier or Bearded Vulture: 122 cm. 1200-7300m. A
variety can be seen above the Kali Gandaki at Baglung and Beni.
Wall creeper. 18 cm. Up to 4500m. Common on cliffs – and nowadays often spotted on
cuttings for tractor roads. Grey bird with striking crimson wings.
White-capped River Chat. 19 cm. Up to 4800m. Common on all rivers. Bright white cap,
remainder black and maroon.

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5. TRAIL GUIDE

Trekking routes to/from Gurja Khani: Route One: Beni/Darbang to Gurja Khani via Lulang (2-3 days). Pass: 3,250 m
 Route Two: Gurja Khani to Beni/Darbang via Dhorpatan valley (3-4 days). Two passes:
Rugachaur (3,950 m) and Jaljalla (3,400m).
 Route Three: Baglung to Gurja Khani via Dhamja, Tarakhola and Dhorpatan (6-7 days).
Two high passes: Gurjaghat Deorali (3,350m) and Rugachaur (3,950 m), and two minor
ones below 3000 m.
 Route Four: Gurja Khani to Darbang/Beni via the canyon route and Mudi. (3 days). No
high pass but involves a vertiginous descent.
Mini-trek
1. Route Five: Baglung to Myagdi Tatopani/Dharbang/Beni via Dhamja pass (2,560 m) (2days). Good views of Annapurnas and Dhaulagiris. May be combined with Route One.

Advice on which route to choose

All the above routes offer stunning views of the Himalayas so the main criteria for yourchoice will be the amount of time available and your degree of fitness. Any of the routes can bewalked in the reverse direction, the choice depending on where guides may be obtained, andone’s preference for uphill versus downhill when the route is very steep.
The shortest and easiest way in and out of Hidden Village is Route 1. This is the regularroute used by locals and mule trains .From the roadhead (Darbang) a fit person can reach Gurja
Khani in 2 days. If you have the time and energy it is more interesting to make a circuit andreturn (or arrive) via a different route. Route 3 is the longest route, taking you through un26

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touristed valleys and passes, through a varied mix of scenery and tribes/caste groups. If you
begin with this route it ensures that you are well-acclimatized by the time you hit the higher
passes. It traverses the Dhorpatan valley, a beautiful alpine valley with a small remnant ofTibetan refugees from the 1959 diaspora. A further variation is to follow Route Five from Baglungto Dharbang. Then continue on Route One to Gurja Khani.
A trek to Gurja Khani can be combined with some of the better-known treks e.g. Around
Dhaulagiri (begins from the lower Dhaula valley or from Phalegaon); Around Annapurna (connects
at Beni); Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve (connects at Gurja Ghat); Dolpo (via Dhorpatan). See maps.
Via Rugachaur Pass (Routes 2 and 3)
On Routes 2 and 3 the pass of Rugachaur (3,950 m) is an easy climb when walked fromthe Dhorpatan (south) side, but a formidable climb of five hours from the Gurja Khani (north)side; the final hour is very steep with no comfortable resting spots. There are no teashops, andfew locals on the trail for asking directions (though women and children regularly walk this route
when going to visit “maiti” (maternal home). It is essential to hire a guide since the route is hard
to follow where the trail descends and disappears into a boulder-strewn river gully. There aresome narrow exposed sections on cliffs above the gully, though the feeling of exposure is
reduced by the dense vegetation. If the state of the path remains the same as in 2014, you are
not advised to attempt this route without a guide, or in wet weather when the path becomes
extremely slippery and the river gully sections risk rolling stones. The easiest place to obtain aguide is in Gurja Khani. But if going in the reverse direction, it may be possible to obtain a guideat Gurja Ghat (Dhorpatan valley) or to phone Gurja Khani to arrange for a guide to meet you at
Rugachaur Pass. There is a plan to widen and improve this footpath in 2015.
Via the Dhaula Canyon (Route 4)
Route 4 is a splendid route high above the canyon of the Dhaula River. However, bewarned, it involves an extremely exposed descent of 700 metres which occurs about 5-6 hours
after departing from Gurja Khani (i.e. too late to change your mind and return to Gurja for thenight). Nevertheless, this route too is walked by Gurja women and children on visits to “maiti”. A
guide is essential as the route is not marked, and it is easiest to find a guide in Gurja Khani
village.
Getting lost!
Not everyone is familiar with the convention of referring to ‘left bank’ and ‘right bank’ ofrivers. Remember that these are always in reference to a person facing downstream.
Footpaths proliferate in Nepal. There are main trails, minor trails, paths for going to cut
firewood, paths to access fields, paths diverting around a landslide, paths for herding animals,
paths to sacred spots . . . At times you will face a bewildering choice of paths not mentioned inthis guide book or on the map.
The standard Nepali advice to avoid getting lost is: “Stay on the path, and you won’t get
lost.” They also assume that we are clairvoyant. A typical response to a request for directions is:“You know that big tree over the hill, don’t you – that’s where you should take the upper path.”
Assuming there is nobody around to ask, how do you decide which path is the one you
should stay on? Look for clues in the way of footprints or evidence of beaten compacted dirt,suggesting heavier traffic on one than the others. The right path is not necessarily the most
broad and level. If the way is rocky, look for the rocks which look whitish where dust from bootshas been deposited. If you are on a trail with regular local traffic, another clue is sweet wrappers or tangerine peel in season. Should none of these things help, do not panic. There are two
choices: you can sit and wait till someone turns up, or you can pick the most likely and continue.
If you do the latter, keep checking for footprints especially in soft muddy spots. If in doubt turnback and try an alternative option.
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Don’t teach children to beg!
In off-the-beaten areas children have not learned to beg from tourists. Let’s keep itthat way!! However photogenic they may look, control your impulse to offer them sweets,
pens, or other things. You can make an exception if you are staying in their home, but timespent playing with them is the best gift. If you want to help financially, a donation to the
local government school is the best means.

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ROUTE ONE: Darbang >> Lulang >> Gurja Khani (2-3 days)

It is not necessary to hire a guide for Route One. Porters can usually be hired at the bus
station in Beni or Darbang, but it is better to make an arrangement with a Trekking Agency inPokhara lakeside since porters are becoming difficult to recruit nowadays.
To start:
From Pokhara take a bus to Beni (3 hours) on the Kali Gandaki/Jomosom road. From
Beni catch a local bus up the Myagdi Khola river to Darbang (2 hours). Buses for Darbang leavefrom the western edge of Beni beside a road bridge over the Myagdi Khola. There are several
every day; share taxis are also available (double the price, half the time). This is a bumpy dusty
ride, sometimes teetering on the edge of landslides and precipices. If this doesn’t appeal, it isalso possible to walk from Beni to Darbang (6 hours). It is a verdant scenic valley, strung withsmall hamlets, The original walking trail still remains in most places, though here and there you
will have to walk on the dusty motor track.
In Darbang there are several basic hotels such as the Thakhali Guest House. If time, it ispreferable to complete the first leg of the trek and spend the night at Dharapani or Takam. From
Darbang a rudimentary bus service runs up to Sibang with 2-3 buses per day. The track howeveris extremely rough, often blocked by landslides, the buses are past retirement age and wait until
they are full before leaving, so it is often just as quick to walk. Anyway, it would be a shame toride this section as the mountain views are stunning and cannot be appreciated inside a
cramped bus.
Darbang landslide
Some 25 years ago a massive landslide occurred close to Darbang on the opposite
side of the Myagdi Khola. It swept with it forests, fields, and villages. Two hundred people aresaid to have died. The debris dammed the waters of the river for several hours which caused
further devastation downstream when the dam broke. The disaster illustrates the extreme
steepness and fragile nature of the slopes in the Himalayas, particularly along the Myagdi
Khola and its tributaries.

Day One: Darbang (1000 m ) >> Lulang (2410 m )7-8 hours

This is a longish day which can be eased either by splitting it into two with an overnight at ahomestay in Takam or the teashop-lodge at Phalegaon, or by gaining Dharapani the night before.
It is an extremely scenic route, thickly sprinkled with picturesque villages. The following day there
is no habitation between Lulang and Gurja Khani, so it is recommended to sleep at Lulang (orLumsung) in order to be sure of making Gurja Khani. Those who are fit, however, can reach Gurja
Khani in a day from Phalegaon.
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1. Darbang (1000m) > Dharapani (1500 m)
1:45 hours
Cross the suspension bridge over
the Myagdi Khola and follow thejeep track northwards along theright bank of the river. After half
an hour cross a side tributary ona suspension bridge and rejoin
the jeep track. After the second
hairpin bend, take the oldfootpath on the right which
zigzags steeply up a pine-clad
spur overlooking the river below.
Higher up the footpath rejoins thejeep track and continues to climb
until the attractive village of
Dharapani (1500 m) (tr: springwater) is reached. True to its
name there are several stoneclad waterspouts at the entrance
to the village. Ethnic groups here
are largely Chhettri and Magarwith a few dalit households.
There are teashops and at least one teashop lodge should you wish to spend the night,
and splendid views of Dhaulagiri and Gurja Himal.

2. Dharapani (1500m) > Takam (1630m) > Phalegaon (1750 m)
2:45 hours
Continue on the jeep track – it is dusty or muddy in a few places but little traffic except
for mule trains and there are stunning views of the Dhaulagiri range to compensate. It
passes through woodland interspersed with terraced fields, where you will see villagers
busy with different tasks depending on the agricultural season – ploughing, planting,harvesting, or threshing. In about an hour you arrive at the even more picturesque village
of Takam – slate roofs, stone walls, front façades of white and ochre mud plaster, and asmall pagoda temple sitting on a wide crescent of rice fields with an unbelievable
backdrop of snow mountains. Just before Takam, take the lower right fork in the track(shorter, and less dusty) which leads past a stone dhara water spout. Homestay
accommodation is available here as well as teashop-lodges. Continuing, follow the jeep
track as it climbs to negotiate a landslide-prone cliff section and winds around to reachSibang (1790 m) in 30 minutes. The jeep track ends here (Dec 2014). Accommodation isavailable in teashop-lodges. Follow the footpath which continues and in about 15
minutes take the upper fork which climbs up to pass near the lower part of Machim
village (the lower fork descends to cross the river for the Dhaulagiri Circuit route) from
where there are good views up the valley which leads to French Pass. From here the trailis level to the school at Phalegaon (teashops and local accommodation available.)

3. Phalegaon (1750m) > Lulang village (2410 m)
2:45 hours
From Phaegaon the path descends gently (passing below the village of Muna) to reach abridge across the Dar Khola (tributary of the Myagdi) in less than an hour. Looking
westwards upstream the villages die out and the mountains rise higher and steeper, theridges intersecting each other like a fat braid of mountains. Across the river there is asingle teashop (cannot be relied upon to be open – and it is a longish climb to the next
teashop at Lulang). Just past the teashop there is a choice of trails. The lower (left) trail
keeps closer to the river and climbs gently to reach Lumsung village (in Lulang VDC) while
the upper right trail climbs steadily to the large and fascinating village of Lulang. The29

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latter is the more direct trail which you should take (unless you are heading to the Jaljalla
Pass and Dhorpatan). At Lulang there is one local lodge about halfway up on the left (RatiMaya B.K. 97420380), and friendly but very simple homestay accommodation further up
and further left at Kali Maya’s (9746062298) – though the room is very small the toilet isspotless. Further homestays are anticipated in the coming year. [If you are too tired toclimb the steep stairs to Lulang it is possible to stay at the teashop lodge at Lumsung.
The next day there is a direct path between Lumsung and Lulang.]
Lulang Village
Lulang is an unusual village because all of its 200 households belong to the dalit
caste of metal-workers (Kami). Fanned around a steep stadium of terraced fields, the village
is colourful with marigold flowers, rows of pumpkins and maize drying on roofs andverandahs, the houses decorated with splashes and stripes of red, white and black muds. It
is however a very poor and neglected village, with a high rate of absentee men who havegone to seek their fortune in the Gulf countries.

Day Two: Lulang (2410m)> Gurja Pass (3250 m) >Gurja Khani (3061 m)
7+ hours
Note: There is no habitation between Lulang and Gurja Khani except for a rudimentary teashop at
the Pass, so it is wise to eat something before starting and carry some snacks. It is a moderately
strenuous route with two ascents and one descent, but a good, easy-to-follow trail.
1. Lulang (2410m) > Gurja Deorali (3250m)
3 hours
Follow any footpath up through Lulang to reach the main trail which emerges from thevillage on the upper left side as you look uphill. Once on the trail it is impossible to lose
the way since the route is welltravelled by mule trains. You arealso certain to be accompanied by
women heading out with empty
doko on their back to gather
firewood and fodder. It is a pleasant
climb through oak-rhododendron
forest – not too steep except for the
final section. The branches andtrunks are almost hidden by a thickcloak of moss, ferns, and orchids.
At the pass there is a draughty
teashop (tea, noodles, biscuits) andstupendous views of Gurja Himal –if you arrive before noon.

2. Gurja Deorali (3250m) > Dhaula
Khola bridge (2500 m) 3 hours
Follow the only path down the northslope of the ridge. A landslide in the
monsoon of 2014 felled many ofthe majestic Himalayan cedar trees
and destroyed sections of the path.
The path has been repaired and the landslide opened up views of Gurja Himal which canbe enjoyed much of the way down. In December and January you may encounter snow on
this section (in 1998 our children sledged most of the way on their bottoms). After
descending moderately steeply, the gradient lessens as the path heads in a more30

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westerly direction for the final hour of the descent to the bridge over the Dhaula Khola.
On the opposite side you will see fields and temporary dwellings of the Gurja people, who
descend to live in these when snow falls up in the village.
Himalayan Cedars
The Cedrus deodara trees on the pass and along the ridge, mark the westernmost
occurrence in Nepal of this magnificent tree. One of the giants of the forests, it can grow up
to 80 metres high (similar to sequoia trees of California). It is used for timber, and fragrantoils can also be extracted. A few years ago a devastating fire destroyed many trees on thewestern slopes of this ridge.

3. Dhaula Khola (2500m) > Gurja Khani (3060 m)
1:15 hours
There used to be a wooden bridge spanning the narrowest point of the gorge, but in thepast year a modern suspension bridge has been installed. The last leg to the village
involves another climb. It is not so high but it is steep and has to be done when legs are
tired. Follow the main track upwards. By this hour you are likely to encounter villagers
heading home with farming tools or loads of firewood and grass on their backs, so there
is no risk of getting lost. The path arrives at a flattish grassy meadow. There is a water tap
and an empty building on the right, with the sheer face of Gurja Himal partially visible
above this. The village of Gurja Khani is also visible to the left and is reached on a level
footpath in about 15 minutes from here. Near the village, avoid the path which forks rightand rises up to the school.
Arrival at Gurja Khani
If you visit in November after the harvest is in, you may think you have arrived at an
animal park as you walk the final 15 minutes to the village, for these fields will be covered withthousands of sheep, goats, cows and buffaloes, guarded by large but friendly sheepdogs, all ofthem wearing bells, including the dogs. As evening approaches a tremendous bleating andringing arises as lambs that are penned call out to their mothers returning from grazing.
Shepherds in homespun jackets wander around checking that animals are safe, and relocating
those which have turned up at the wrong address.
In Gurja Khani, basic homestay accommodation is available at the following households:
Jhak Bahadur Chantyal - house just above the entrance to the village; Sita Chantyal – shop in the
middle of the village; Mohan Chantyal – house on western edge of the village. Other homestays
are anticipated by the end of 2015. There is a Tourism Development Committee who will behappy to help with any questions (Contact: Jhak Bahadur Chantyal). Persons in the village can becontacted by telephoning 994690014. The telephone rings in Sita Chantyal’s shop. They will
forward a message on foot to the persons concerned.
Gurja Khani is a pleasant place to spend a few nights. For activity suggestions, see
Section 3.
________________________________________________________________________________

ROUTE TWO: Gurja Khani > Dhorpatan > Jaljalla Pass > Darbang

3-4 days

To start:
This route may be walked in either direction, but is described here as a return route fortrekkers who have reached Gurja Khani by Route One. Starting from Gurja Khani guarantees you
obtain a guide without delay.
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Advice and warning
Do not be misled by locals who say they jog up to Rugachaur Pass in two hours. This is asteep unremitting climb (or descent in reverse direction) at altitude. The path is hardly more thana goat-track, and where it passes along the gully bed the disposition of the boulders and thecrossings of the stream are constantly changing. If descending in the other direction, missing thecorrect path can leave one marooned at the crest of a high waterfall. A guide is essential, until
such time as the villagers improve the trail and add paint markings. (This might happen in 2015).
So please understand that the description of the first day below is not sufficient to allow trekkers
to make their way alone, and to do so could be dangerous.
After Rugachaur Pass there are no further challenges, the gradient lessens and the pathis easy to follow.
Day One: Gurja Khani (3060m) > Gurja Ghat (3015m)

8-9 hours

1. Gurja Khani (3060m) > Rugachaur Pass (3950m)
5 + hours
It is advisable to make an early start. Follow the main path heading west from the village.
Shortly afterwards take the left fork which leads down to the Dhaula river where there is atemporary bridge in the dry season. Cross and climb the limy-white landslide scree.
Follow the path upwards for 30
minutes or so until it reaches aridge and emerges into open
fields with temporary shelters.
Continue up past the shelters.
Beyond these the path passes
through dense vegetation ofcanes and trees, dipping up anddown. At times it follows a
precipitous route above cliffs
and waterfalls. The feeling of
exposure is lessened by thedense vegetation, but the senseof safety is an illusion and feetmust be carefully placed. In rain
this path becomes atreacherous mud-slide – canes
make strong hand-holds ifneeded. From time to time thepath descends to the stream
bed and follows the gully
upwards. There are no bridges
for the multiple crossings of thestream, and if the water is highone has to wade.
After about 4 hours, the pathleaves the gully for good, and the really steep climb begins. It is challenging because
there are hardly any spots where one can place two feet flat on the ground and nochautara for a rest stop. The rewards, however, are the amazing views that develop
behind one. Finally the path crests the Pass. There is a perfect picnic spot on a wide
grassy meadow with a chautara. Alpine flowers abound in season. But it can be cold.
Rugachaur means “the meadow where you catch a cold”! There are breath-stopping
views (if you have any left) of Pyutar, Churen, and Gurja Himal with many of the other
Dhaulagiri peaks also visible.
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2. Rugachaur Pass (3950m) > Gurja Ghat (3015m)
3+ hours
If the sun is shining this is an idyllic gentle walk through alpine meadows andcraggy peaks. After your exertions on the pass you will be tempted to relax in many spots.
But don’t dawdle too long as there is no permanent habitation for the night until Gurja
Ghat is reached. Follow the broad grassy meadow gently downhill, keeping the small
stream on your right. Pass a single isolated hut on your left. Continue to descend passing
more huts on your left. Where the stream bed flattens, cross it to the right bank, andcontinue downstream. The path rises slightly above the stream bed and contours aroundbefore descending to cross a side tributary on a log bridge. This occurs approximately one
hour or so from the Pass.
Continue to follow the path downstream on the right bank. The stream drops
steeply but the path continues more or less level, leaving it some distance above theriver. After a further hour, the path descends to rejoin the river (locals know a dry season
short-cut through the brush and your guide may lead you that alternative route). The pathcrosses the river to the left bank and shifts back and forth. After a further hour or so thepath descends some steep stone steps and enters the broad flat valley of the Uttar
Ganga river. Turn left (east) and in a short while the settlement of Gurja Ghat is reached.
The teashop lodge is immediately on the left, across from the compound of theDhorpatan Hunting Reserve. There may be rangers here who wish to see your entry
permit.
There are hundreds of summer season dwellings, but everyone except the
teashop people descends with their herds in early October, so the place is nearly
deserted. The teashop is run by a friendly and helpful Chantyal couple (Lokendra
Chantyal Ph. 9867633453). Accommodation is basic and consists of a large dormitory
room with further beds in the kitchen, but the toilet is spotless. Nights are cold, but there
are plenty of blankets, and with a fire burning in the open hearth, this is a cosy place tosit and watch food being prepared.
Dhorpatan (2900 m)
If you have the time we recommend staying an extra day in order to explore the beautiful
Dhorpatan valley. The valley is almost flat and the village of Dhorpatan lies a gentle 2hour walk downstream. Although the high Himalayas are not visible (except for the tip ofAnnapurna), the Dhorpatan valley is reminiscent of an alpine valley with stands ofconifers, rushing rivers, rocky crags, clear mountain air, and a rich silence broken only bybird song. There are many sunny glades with carpets of vivid moss beckoning one to restand contemplate. On the way there is a community of Sunars (goldsmiths) at Khalti Kutti(they descend for the winter months) and a Tibetan refugee settlement at Bharte andChentung with a Bonpo Buddhist monastery and Tibetan medicine school. At Dhorpatan
there is a community-owned lodge , some shops, and a jeep track recently reached thevillage from Burtibang. From Burtibang there are regular buses to Tansen and Baglungshould you need a quick exit, but the ride will be rough, and winding and will take you allday.
Note: It is advisable to stay at Gurja Ghat the night before you cross the Jaljalla
Pass, rather than Dhorpatan, so that you are not caught short the next day – there is nohabitation until Moreni is reached.
.
Day Two: Gurja Ghat (3015m) > Moreni (2300m) > Lumsung (2190m)
7-8 hours
1. Gurja Ghat (3015m) > Jaljalla Pass (3400m)
4 hours
Follow the Uttar Ganga valley upwards, keeping the river on your right side (i.e. walking up
the right bank). The trail is well-trodden and passes by many herders’ huts. Ignore any
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trails which deviate to left or right and continue in an easterly direction, climbing steadily.
After around two hours the path cross the Uttar Ganga (by now a small stream) andcontinue to ascend eastwards. In another hour or so the Jaljalla Pass is reached withmagnificent views.
2. Jaljalla Pass (3400m) > Moreni > Lumsung (2190m)
3-4
hours
The views continue to entertain as one descends. The path is clear and easy to follow. It

descends through scrub and then light forest of moss-draped trees which frame the whitemountains. After two and a half hours you will see open fields below you with temporary
dwellings. The path descends through these to reach the village of Moreni where there isa teashop-lodge. If you have the time, continue to descend, cross to the other side of the
Dar khola and continue downstream a short distance to Lumsung where there is also ateashop lodge.
Day Three: Lumsung (2190m) > Darbang (1000m)
6hours
After Lumsung, the route is the same as Route One, but in the reverse direction. There should be
no trouble in finding the way as the trails are well-travelled by locals. Darbang can be reached ina day on foot, with time to continue by bus to Beni, Baglung, or even Pokhara if you reach
Darbang in good time.
________________________________

ROUTE THREE:: BAGLUNG>>DHORPATAN >>GURJA KHANI

6-7 days

To start
Baglung is reached in 2-3 hours by bus from Pokhara, or by share taxi or jeep. Ask for the
Baglung Bus Park in Pokhara. There are many buses every day and the road is pitched all theway. Baglung is a moderate sized town which has grown enormously in recent years. But nothingcan destroy its dramatic setting on the cliffs of a raised river terrace above the Kali Gandaki river,with the majestic south face of Dhaulagiri framed by the river canyon. There are many local
hotels, the best one being the Peace Palace Hotel which offers rooms with en suite hot showers,
Wi-Fi in the restaurant, and a small garden. English is spoken.
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Baglung
The town of Baglung is reached by bus from Pokhara in about 3 hours. It has adramatic setting atop the cliffs of a raised river terrace high above the Kali Gandaki river, withthe white face of Dhaulagiri looking down on the town like an elderly statesman. Situated on a
narrow peninsula at the confluence of two rivers, it developed as a trading town for a wide
hinterland to the north and west long before motor roads and vehicles arrived. During the
Maoist insurgency period (2000-2005) the rice fields of its plateau sadly gave way to cementbuildings as people fled rural areas to the safety of towns. But Baglung still has some charmand is largely traffic-free; its old Newari bazaar remains in the western corner with somebeautiful traditional stone and brick buildings with carved windows and slate roofs.
On the tip of the peninsula surrounded by an ancient holy forest is a temple dedicatedto Devi. In the month of Chaitra (March/April) a large mela (fair) is held here which in the past
attracted traders and revelers from as far afield as Mustang, Rolpa and Dolpo. There is also adramatic cliff-to-cliff suspension bridge which is an experience just to walk. It crosses the side
tributary of the Kathe Khola to Titeng VDC. The bridge begins from near the bus station in
Baglung.

Day One: Baglung Bazaar (1,000 m) >> Okhle (Dhamja VDC) (2,150 m)

6-7 hours

1. Baglung (1000m) > Dikichaur/Kalimati (1700m)
2 hours
It is advisable to set
out early to complete
the climb before theheat of the day. Start:
In Baglung bazar
make your way to
Vidhya Mandir Chowk(left side of Vidhya
Mandir Secondary
School) where you willfind a footpath leading
to a cement staircase
with a hand-rail. Afterabout 15 minutes thestaircase ends at the
Town Office (pinkbuilding on right) and merges with a tractor road. Follow this upwards (do not diverge left
onto a wide level track) until you see a well-trodden footpath rising through pines andbamboos on the left. You will follow this path for the next hour or so. At times the footpath
is crossed by the new tractor road. Make sure you find the old walking trail continuing on
the far side, always heading upwards and westwards. After 10 minutes you pass near thevillage of Raato Maato (tr. red mud) on your right, but continue up the walking trail. Thisis a delightful path as it gets higher, rising through rocky crags and sweet-scented pines
with stone steps in the steeper spots. There are many shady chautara tempting a rest
stop. Nowadays this trail is little used and you can enjoy the silence and loneliness. After
1-2 hours you reach the delightful village of Dikichaur set amid wild cherry trees(flowering October-December), and the trail merges with the jeep track. Follow the track35

36
to the right up through the village and at the top contour to the left. In 15 minutes thisleads one to Kalimati (tr. black mud). There are two teashops near the school.

2. Kalimati (1700m) > Bhim Pokhara (1750m)
2 hours
This section follows an un-trafficked jeep track and is fairly level. New jeep tracks areproliferating and at times it may be unclear which one to pick. In general you need tokeep heading westwards and gently upwards. If in doubt ask for the next villages of
Titauri or Bhim Pokhara. Titauri is reached in about 1 hour and here, if you glance back,you will see the upper half of Annapurna South and Machapuchare peaks. There is ateashop. Continue westwards on the jeep track. It descends to negotiate a cliff (highabove in the forest there is rock face which resembles an Easter Island statue) and thenclimbs again reaching the village of Bhim Pokhara (Multana) on a narrow shoulder of land
after another hour. More teashops.
3. Bhim Pokhara (1750m) > Okhle (Dhamja) (2150m) 2:30 hours
Continue level on the same jeep track (north-westwards). The track curls around the ridge
revealing a large bowl of slopes surrounding the upper tributaries of the Kathe Khola.
Dhamja and the village of Okhle is visible at the top arc of the bowl. In just under an hourthe village of Sima is reached. Take the left fork which descends a short distance. Afterabout 100 metres there is a house on the right and the track bends to the left. The househas a signboard on its wall. Take the footpath behind this house beside an irrigation ditch(it seems an unlikely path). The path follows the irrigation canal and then descends tocross a waterfall stream with a small suspension bridge. The path climbs very steeply up
the cliff on the far side to rejoin a jeep track. After a further 10 minutes level walk thevillage of Majh Katera is reached in the VDC of Dhamja. There is a local teashop-hotel
here. There is another local lodge half an hour further on by the secondary school at
Sayakatera, but if you have the energy we recommend carrying on up to the higher villageof Okhle (the climb will not be wasted since it reduces the climb the next day). A shortdistance after the lodge at Majh Katera a footpath ascends on the right, leading to Okhle.
For Homestays in Okhle, contact Jit Bahadur Bishwakarma (Ph 9847682248) or
Okhle means to crack and the village is named after a hole in a large boulder where
people would bring their rice to hull in the old days. Bishwakarma (metal-workers) and
Magar and Chantyal people settled here during the copper mining days of the Ranaregime. Mining ceased around 100 years ago.
Day Two: Okhle (2150m) >> Tarakholagaon (1800m) >> Phedi (2230m)
7 hours
Note: The names on the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve map for this section are different to those inlocal use. We provide the latter, in case you have to ask the way. The village of Tarakhola gaon
(not marked on the map) lies on the left bank of the river, downstream a little from Sagubot(marked on the map).
1. Okhle (2150m) > Sirkhu (2350m)
2:30 hours
In Okhle (or in Majh Katera), ask locals to direct you to the footpath which heads northwestwards and upwards to Kanchi Deorali and Sirkhu. The path climbs gently throughscrub and fields, passing Bahun Karka (named after a single Brahmin family who livehere). Just beyond a white tapstand take a footpath which forks right (up) which will leadyou up through oak/rhododendron forest to Kanchi Deorali (2400 m) – a minor passmarked with a stone chautara, reached in 1 hour from Okhle. Snow peaks are visible
from here. Continue on the same path, which meanders up and down and in half an hourreaches the pass of Nila Jotin Dara (2530 m) Note that Dara is spelt Danda on maps, but
it is pronounced as we have spelt it here] Continue gently downhill through the forest
clad with ferns and orchids. Cross a stream emerging from a narrow cleft in a rock walland lower down the path emerges into a meadow with the village of Sirkhu visible below.
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The upper houses of the village are reached in just over 1 hour from Nila Jotin Dara.
There is a single teashop here.

Cannabis sativa
At some point on this trek you will certainly spot cannabis sativa growing – it is notcalled ‘weed’ for no reason. The plant is endemic in Baglung, and is a traditional crop. Locals
use its seeds for chutney, and the stems for hemp twine. But of course it is the same plant
which provides the narcotic in ganja, charesh, and bhang. For centuries it has been grown
and used without controversy; in fact a mountain near Baglung bazar is named Ganja Duri.
Then the hippie culture reached Nepal and the growing of cannabis was made illegal. From
time to time police arrive and burn the crops of the villagers. Yet it has legitimate uses as acash crop. The seed grains are widely available in Baglung stores, and you will almost
certainly be served some of the chutney with your dal-bhaat at one of the teashops.

2. Sirkhu (2250m) > Bhat Khane Dara (1840m)
2 hours
At Sirkhu the footpath turns into a jeep track which you will follow for most of the day
though you are unlikely to meet any traffic. From Sirkhu follow the track gently downhill.
After 15 minutes, look for a footpath on the left which descends a steep spur andshortcuts
the jeep
track.
Halfway
down thespur isthe villageof
Kaldara.
Furtherdown thejeep trackcrisscrosses
thefootpath.
Keep youreyesskinnedfor theshort-cut trails which will lead down to a small suspension bridge, but do not worry if you
miss them since the jeep track will also lead to the bridge. After the bridge keep on thejeep track which follows the right bank of the Halpu Khola, past Halpu village. Shortly
after passing a small micro hydro plant on the left bank, the track splits. Take the upper
right fork which leads up to the hamlet of Waba and shortly afterwards cuts over the ridgeat the village of Bhat Khane Dara (literally Eating Rice Ridge). There are shops andteashops here.

3. Bhat Khane Dara (1840m) > Tarakhola gaon (1800m) > Phedi (2230m)
2:30 hrs
Continue on the jeep track which contours a right bend to enter the Tara Khola valley
proper and heads in a more northerly direction gently downhill (but heading upstream on
the left bank of the river. Despite the jeep track the Tara Khola valley is little changed andyou will see many traditional Magar villages clinging to the steep sides of this deep valley.
If you fancy a slight detour, cross the river to pass through the compact village of Hila.
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The main route stays on the left bank and in about an hour you reach the village of
Tarakhola gaon which has some town houses (not to be confused with all the othervillages in the Tarakhola valley! Be warned: Nepalis are quite careless and imprecise withnames). There are teashops and local hotels here if you wish to stay the night. The one
run by Melina is recommended: good food, friendly hostess who speaks English, but
prison-cell rooms.
If you still have time and energy follow the jeep track upriver, and after 15 minutes crossa tributary on an iron-link bridge (see box) Continuing upstream is a pretty stretch of theriver like a Chinese painting with high cliffs, waterfalls, sprays of pink flowers in thebanks, and twisted trees dangling long catkins and vines. Each bend reveals a new vista.
Pass through the villages of Dogadi and Chhedi. At Karmila there is a local hotel, or crossthe Tara Khola to the right bank and continue upstream to Dhapling. The path crosses
the river again and continues up through the hamlets of Machar, Barthan, andKhorekarka, finally reaching Phedi at the confluence of two tributaries. Just above Phedi
at Sipa (follow the western tributary for a few minutes), homestay can be arranged withthe delightful family of Keshab Gharti Magar (Ph 9867641878). If you have a spare day
Keshab will be happy to guide you to the top of the local mountain (Dadhe Lekh 3500m)
from where there is a phenomenal view of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges.
Chain-link bridges of Baglung
Chain link suspended trail bridges are a unique design first developed in Baglung district,and later spread to other areas of Nepal. People could construct these bridges from locallyavailable materials – stone and iron bars. No imported cement or steel cables wereneeded. Local blacksmiths forged long heavy duty chains from iron bars which functioned
as the hanging structural element. Dry stone masonry was used for chain anchorages aswell as the suspension towers. Largely superseded by more modern steel cable designs, one
can still cross rivers at several points in Baglung on one of the traditional chain-link bridges,
including at Karmila, Tara Khola, and at Sioul Khola, Bong Dobhan.

Day Three: Phedi (2230m) > Rum (1900m)

From Phedi, you may be able to arrange a guide who
can lead you (along slippery goat-tracks!) around the octopuslike ridges of Danse Lekh directly into the Taman Khola/Bonga
Dobhan valley to the north.
Otherwise it is necessary to divert briefly into the
Myagdi Khola watershed by following the well-beaten path from
Phedi over the Dansi Lek pass (2,800 m), descending to thevillage of Rum. This is a short day.
The next day (day 4) the trail crosses back into Baglung
District via Sole Lek pass (2,600 m) to enter the Taman Kholavalley in the watershed of the Budigad Khola.

4 hours

Day Four: Rum (1900m) >> Bonga Dobhan (1500 m) 5 hours
1. Rum (1900m) > Sole Lek (2600m)
3 hours
Ask villagers to direct you onto the footpath whichdrops down to cross the Khahare khola just below its
junction with the Beli Khola. Follow the Khahare river
upstream on the left bank. After 10 minutes take the path on the right which climbs
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steeply up the ridge passing near the villages of Diliban and Majhdhara to reach Galkot,
where it joins the main ridge trail. Keep climbing on the ridge line passing through thevillages of Kiteni and Pakhpani. Near the top of the ridge the trail merges with a tractor

road. Follow the tractor road as it bends northwards through forest. Just before the passis reached the trail deviates to the left from the tractor road. Follow this and within 5
minutes you reach the pass of Sole Lek where there is a grassy meadow and somechautara and a dharmshala shelter for porters.
2. Sole Lek (2600m) > Taman (1950m)
2 hours
From the pass, follow the jeep track which descends to the left of a derelict stonedharmashala shelter and chautara. After a short distance look for a footpath which
diverges on the left side of the track and follow this down to a solid frame bridge acrossthe Taman Khola stream. The path rejoins the jeep track and descends on the right bankpassing through the Magar village of Lammela. Livestock is the main occupation here
and you will see Magar herders wearing homespun wool jackets. The trail continues todescend reaching the compact village of Taman nearly 2 hours below the pass. There are
two teashop lodges. Taman village contains many abandoned houses; people left as life
was difficult as many found life too difficult in this remote valley, especially during the
Maoist insurgency.
3. Taman (1950m) > Bonga Dhoban (1500m)
2 hours
Follow the jeep track down the right bank of the Taman Khola. Cross to the left bank on
the second suspension bridge (1 hour after Taman) and a short while later cross back to
the right bank walking beside an irrigation canal. At the bottom of the hill cross the side
tributary of the Khum Khani Khola on another example of the iron-link sling bridge andcontinue down the path till you arrive at the Bong Khani Khola. Cross this on asuspension bridge to enter the small bazaar town of Bonga Dobhan. There are several
Thakkali teashop lodges here offering good clean food and lodging. As the next day is along day you may prefer to continue and stay the night either at Bong Khani or at
Lamachaur (see Day Five).
Day Five: Bonga Dobhan (1500m) >> Gurja Ghat (3,015 m)

8-9 hours

1. Bonga Dobhan (1500m) > Lamachaur (2040m)
2:45 hours
At the northern end of Bong Dobhan, cross the river to the left bank and follow the path
upstream past a Police Check Post where you may be asked to register your name anddestination in their log book. Higher upstream the path crosses the river several times,
arriving at Bong Khani (right bank)– an attractive village of artisan caste people – in39

40
about 1:45 hours. Continuing on the right bank the hamlet of Lamachaur is reached in afurther hour. There is a Chantyal family here who offer homestay.
2. Lamachaur (2040m) > Deorali Pass (3,350 m)
4 hours
Approximately 15 minutes after leaving
Lamachaur the river splits into two
tributaries. Cross the left tributary on asuspension bridge. From here the real
climb begins for the pass, up the ridge
between the two tributaries. The path iseasy to follow, zigzagging up through lightoak-rhododendron forest, eventually it
emerges above the tree line, and the passis reached in about 3-4 hours. From thepass there are good views of Churen andGurja Himal.
3. Deorali (3350m) > Gurja Ghat
(3,015 m)
1:30 hours
From the pass, the path descends a wide
gently sloping valley. There are hundredsof springs and streams in this valley and it
is inevitable that you will get your feet wet.
Lower down, locals have constructed ‘logwalks’ – a kind of log-pontoon - to avoid
the worst of the mud and swamp. In thesummer months hundreds of families
come up with their herds to the valleys
around Dhorpatan and live in temporary dwellings. They descend for the winter sometime around mid-October after which there may encounter nobody until you reach Gurja
Ghat where the side valley you are in joins the main Dhorpatan valley and the Uttar
Ganga river. Cross the river on a small wooden bridge to the north bank and follow a path
downstream on the right bank. A short distance on you will reach a signboard announcing
the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve. Just before this there is a small dwelling in which afriendly young Chantyal couple run a small homestay-lodge type business. (Lokendra
Chantyal Ph. 9867633453) The accommodation is basic, but there is a hygienic toilet,
and it is cosy sitting with the family around the fire in the evening. Their young daughter
will happily engage with foreign trekkers. Nights are cold at this altitude and frost is likely
in the morning.
Day Six: Gurja Ghat (3015m) >> Rugachaur Pass (3950m) >> Gurja Khani (3060m)

8 hours

The route is the same as Route Two/Day One but in the reverse direction. Please read carefully
the warning not to attempt this route without taking a guide from Gurja Ghat.
It is highly recommended to spend a rest day and two nights at Gurja Ghat in order to explore thebeautiful Dhorpatan Valley, and to organize a guide for the final day’s trek to Gurja Khani. See
the section in Route Two between Days 2 and 3 for further details and advice.
______________________________________

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ROUTE FOUR: GURJA KHANI >> MUDI >> SIBANG >> DARBANG

3 daysThis route is a stupendous one but comes with a warning. The final section of the first day near
Arche involves the dizzying descent of a precipitous 700 metre slope angled at 60-70◦ pepperedwith vertical crags and overhangs. The slope is bare, with only grasses to clutch hold of - nobushes or trees to impede one’s view of the river gorge directly below. Even Nepalis are awarethat vertigo is a risk. But if you have a head for heights, the path is not bad. Certain women andchildren of Gurja Khani walk it when going to visit maiti. The trail is firm dirt with no loose stones
on which to skid; there are one or two resting spots where the gradient briefly lapses to 45◦. As
the path zig-zags most of the time you are facing sideways to the slope so a minor stumble is not
likely to take one over the edge. The danger is mostly in the mind!
Day One: Gurja Khani (3060m) >> Arche (2000m)

A guide is recommended since the trail is not clearly marked and there are many competing trails
heading to grazing areas or wood-cutting paths. A guide can be hired in Gurja Khani for the day(pay for the return day as well). It is necessary to carry food and drink for the day since there isunlikely to be anyone living in the seasonal shelters which are passed. Water bottles can be
refilled at springs if you are not fussy. There are no major passes to be climbed but the trail isconstantly up and down to cross tributary rivers, the only level sections being where one contours
around a precipice. Much of the way the trail passes through fields and seasonal shelters of
Gurja Khani farmers, and you will be impressed how far they will walk to grow a few stalks ofmaize.
1. Start on the main trail heading eastwards out of Gurja Khani village. A short while beyond
the temple with the painted tiger, take the left fork (right fork heads towards the grassy
meadow for the main trail to Lulang) which rises very slightly to pass through a newannex of Gurja Khani settled by some dalit households. From here it drops down throughfields to a small suspension bridge across the Kheyas Khola gushing from the snows ofGurja (30 minutes). This is the first of several tributaries which must be crossed. The
second crossing is an hour and a half further on, at the Ghurma Khola. After this the trail
climbs to its highest point (Khoribas) in 1 ¼ hours. Two hours further on the last patch of
Gurja Khani fields and huts are reached at a place called Phubas. Throughout this whole41

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section the trail is high above the canyon. It is wild Tolkien-esque scenery, with darkchasms, tree-clad needle-like peaks, and forests with wispy cloaks of moss and lichen.
Poking through at every gap in the ridge is the white face of Gurja Himal.
2. Beyond Phubas, follow the shoulder of land down until it terminates with a vertical cliff
where a major tributary (Tirija) flows down from the eastern flanks of Gurja Himal. Thereis another cliff on the right, and it seems the trail must go left where trees can be seen on
the north-facing slope. But no! It twists south – over the precipice into the void. This is
the famous descent. Keep your eyes firmly focused on where you place your feet. It takes
roughly an hour to make the descent. If you have a strong heart you can pause at each
hairpin bend to contemplate the river far below. Only Nepalis would have created a trailon such a slope; only Nepalis would consider using it for a family outing to visit the
grandparents!
3. Cross the wild Dhaula river on a suspension bridge and climb up through rich virgin forest
full of birds to the small hamlet of Arche in one hour. There are no organized homestays
yet, but several families will put you up for the night if you ask them. If you have time,
there will be greater choice at the larger village of Nerbang which is reached in anotherhour. Try the home of Beg Bahadur Gharti Magar (9840601334) in Ward Number 5. Bothvillages offer breath-taking views of the Dhaulagiri range.
Day Two: Arche (2000m) >> Sibang (1790m)
1. Arche (2000m) > Mudi (1700m)

4-6 hours
2-3 hours

Nerbang is a spread-out village in which it is easy to lose the main trail. Keep asking anyone you
meet for the way to Mudi (pronounced Muri to foreigners’ ears). After an hour the trail drops
down to cross a side tributary and climbs again on theother side. The trail splits into two but both routes will
arrive at Mudi in 2-3 hours. Mudi is a large typicallydense-packed Magar village. At this point you are backin relative civilization since large camping groups
trekking the Dhaulagiri Circuit pass through Mudi. Fromthe village one can look up the valley which they follow.
2.
Mudi (1700m) > Sibang (1790m) 2-3
hours
After Mudi, the trail which has been heading
southwards, veers westwards away from theMudi/Myagdi Khola valley to contour into the Dar Kholavalley, dropping down (take the lower left fork where
there is a choice) to cross the Dar river. It then climbs up
through the lower reaches of Phalegaon village to arriveat Sibang in 2:30 minutes from Mudi. There are several
teashop-lodges at Sibang.
Day Three: Sibang (1790m) >> Darbang (1000m) From
here on you are back on the main trail of Route One but
travelling in the reverse direction. See Route 1/Day 1 fordetails.
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ROUTE FIVE: BAGLUNG >> BENI via DHAMJA

2 daysThis is a stand-alone mini trek for those who lack the time or stamina for a longer trek, but who
wish to have an off-the-beaten trail homestay experience and see a stunning panorama of theAnnapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Both the start and finish points are easily reached in a few
hours from Pokhara and there are regular buses throughout the day. The climb is gradual and thepass at 2,560 m poses no altitude problems. The route offers the best close-up views of theDhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges to be seen anywhere in Nepal. On this count alone, it is highly
recommended. The descent to the Myagdi Khola river is steep in places but not difficult. You will
inevitably take many breaks along the way for the Himalayan views continue on the descent,forcing one photograph after another.
This mini-trek can also be an add-on option to the start of Route 1 (the main trail to Gurja Khani)– replacing 1-2 hours of the bus ride between Baglung (Maldhunga) and Darbang. As such it
provides a panoramic view and warm-up to what lies ahead and the contorted maze of rivers
which must be traversed in order to reach the foot of Gurja Himal
Day One: Baglung (1000m) >> Okhle (Dhamja VDC) (2150m)
This section is identical to that described in Route Three/Day One. It is advised to spend thenight at a homestay in the village of Okhle (or in the teashop lodge in the lower hamlet of Majh
Katera).
Day Two: Okhle (2150m) > Tatopani/Myagdi Khola (890m)
4 hours
1. Okhle (2150m) > Dhamja Pass (2560 m)
1 hourFrom Okhle Primary School, follow the trail leading upwards. After 10 minutes an open
grassy meadow is reached with a stone pokhari and a small plantation of pines on theleft. Near the pines you will notice a flat patch of ground devoid of grass with a scant
covering of moss. This is theold slag heap where copper
was processed in the pastand the resulting toxic
waste still deters plants.
However, the trail you
should follow heads aroundto the right from themeadow and you climb
steadily up from the village
on some old stone steps
through oak-rhododendron
forest. The trail is obvious
and in just under an hourthe path cuts over the ridge.
A stone chautara marks thepass. This ridge marks theborder between Baglung and Myagdi Districts. The views from here show the Annapurna
range from an angle rarely seen, and a complete panorama of the Dhaulagiri range
provides those heading on to Hidden Village with an idea of the twists and turns of ridges
and rivers you will negotiate
2. Dhamja Pass (2560m) > Chepari (2100m)
1.5 hours
Follow the trail which descends from the pass bearing gradually left (north-west). After 15
minutes a small trail diverts to the right. This dead-ends at a small temple atop a rocky
pinnacle. Returning to the main trail, continue descending to reach a grassy shoulder
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with yet more panoramic views. (The village lying just below on the right is the hamlet ofMusum). The trail continues down past a communications tower where it merges with ajeep track at the village of Dole and a school with yet more incredible views. Just beyond
the school, leave the jeep track to follow a footpath which descends on the left. The next
village on the route is Chepari.
3. Chepari (2100m) > Tatopani/Myagdi (890m)
1.5 hour
From Chepari onwards there are many villages and a maze of alternative footpaths andjeep tracks, with no clear main trail. However, one cannot get lost for long, and taking analternative route will not waste much time. Just keep asking anyone you meet for
Tatopani which lies on the major Myagdi Khola, close to the confluence with the tributary
which flows in the valley directly west of Dole and Chepari. The shortest route makes avery steep and sometimes slippery descent through forest to emerge on a small precipice
directly above a suspension bridge across the Myagdi Khola. To reach the bridge it twists
eastwards and then returns westwards across the cliff. Cross the bridge and the village of
Tatopani is right there.
Tatopani hot springs
Tatopani on the Myagdi Khola is not to be confused with the Tatopani on the
Kali Gandaki river (Jomosom and Annapurna Circuit treks) which also – confusingly –lies in Myagdi District. Tatopani simply means hot water, and there are hundreds ofvillages with the name Tatopani in Nepal. While the Tatopani on the Kali Gandaki isvisited mainly by tourists nowadays, Nepalis say that Tatopani/Myagdi Khola has
stronger healing properties and its hot pools attract a continuous throng of patientsseeking healing. A ticket for the modest price of a few rupees gives entrance to a
cement pool divided by rope into two halves – one half for men, the other for women covered with a tin roof for shade. The modesty normally shown by Nepali women isloosened, and they bathe in cotton shorts and tank tops. These can be bought from theshops lining the main street. Most come here to seek treatment for arthritic pain, andthey may stay 2-3 weeks. There are cubicles where one can change. Taking a bathe
here will be a cultural immersion experience – you will probably be the only foreignerand someone is bound to strike up a conversation with you in English. After soaking in
the hot pool you can wash off with clean hot water on a rocky outcrop beside the
Myagdi river where there is a small temple. There are numerous teashop lodges in
Tatopani if you wish to stay the night. Alternatively you can catch a local bus back to
Beni and reach Pokhara the same day, or you can catch a local bus going west to
Darbang and stay the night there before proceeding onwards towards Gurja Khani or
Dhorpatan.

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Section 6: GLOSSARY and PHRASEBOOK
Acronyms/abbreviations/nepali words used in the guide
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Chautara – a stone ledge constructed along footpaths on which to rest porter-loads,
sometimes with a banyan and pipal treein the middle to provide shade.
VDC – Village Development Committee. The lowest political unit in Nepal. A VDC will
typically contains several villages.
Khola – river or stream
Deorali – a pass
Bhanjhyang – nick point on a ridge
NGO - Non-Governmental Organization
Dhara – water spout
Phedi – the foot of a slope or ridge
Dobhan – the meeting of two rivers
Danda (dara) – ridge or hill
Khani – a mine
Danda (pr. Dara) – hill or mountain
Duhre (pr duri) – hill or mountain
Chiya – tea
Dudh – milk
Bazaar – town or settlement with several shops

Note on pronunciation
This has been simplified.
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There are four ‘d’ sounds. These have been simplified to two: d and dh (aspirated)
There are four ‘t’sounds. These have been simplified to two: t and th (aspirated)
There are several ‘r’ sounds. These have been simplified to one.
There are two ‘a’ sounds: long ‘aa’ (as in a sheep’s baa; and short ‘a’ (as in ‘material’)‘e’ shoul be pronounced ‘eh’ as in ‘hey’‘i’ should be pronounced as ‘ee’ as in feet (short, not a dipthong sound)
Nasal sounds

Asking Directions
Path
Motor-road
UphillDownhill
Flat/level
Easy/difficult
One hour/ two hours
Right/left
Here/there
Over there
Upper/lower
VillageTown

baato
Motor-baato
ukalo
uralo
terso
sajilo/garho
ek guntaa/dui guntaa . . .
dayaa/bayaa
yahaa/tyahaa
para
upallo/uwallo (or) tala
gau
bajar
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Pass/colCan I get a bus?
How far to the bus?
How far to (Pokhara)?
Which way goes to (Pokhara)?
How long does it take?
Is it far?
Am I on the right path to (Pokhara)?
I want to go to (Pokhara)Is the path difficult?
Is the path dangerous?
I need a guidebhanjhyang/deorali
Bus cha?
Bus sama kati cha?
(Pokhara) sama kati cha?
(Pokhara) jaane baato kun ho?
Kati ta-im (time) laagcha?
Tara cha?
Yo (Pokhara) jaane baato ho?
Ma (Pokhara) jaana chahanchu
Baato garho cha?
Baato dor-lagdo cha?
(Malai) ga-ide chahincha

Food and accommodation
Cooked rice/lentils/vegetables
Cooked food
Water
Boiled water
Drinking water
Clean water
Bottled water
Filtered water
DrinksTea
Black tea
CoffeeSugar
Do you have sugar?
Please give me tea without sugar
How much?
I am hungry/not hungry
I am thirsty/not thirsty
Where can I get (cooked) food?
Is the food ready (to eat)?
Is this clean water?
Is this boiled (filtered) water?
Please boil water for me
Where can I find accommodation?
I need somewhere to sleep
Where is the hotel (teashop)?
How much does it cost?
I need some blankets

dal-bhaat
khana
paani
umaleko paani
piune paani (may still contain bugs!)
safa paani (may not meet tourist standards!)
Mineral water (chupa ko paani)
Filta paani
piune chijchiya
phika chiya /raato chiya/dudh na-bhaeko chiya
cofi
chini
Chini chha?
chini na-bhaeko chiya dinos
kati lagcha/kati parcha/kati bhayo?
Malai bhok lagyo/lagena
Malai tirka lagyo/lagena
Khana kahaa pahincha?
Tayar cha?
Yo safa paani ho? (be careful!)
Yo umaleko (filta) paani ho?
Paani umali dinu holaa.
Basobas kahaa pahincha?
Sutne thau chahanchu
Hotel kahaa cha?
Kati laagcha?
Sutne lugaa chahincha46

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Do you have a clean sheet?
Where is the toilet?
Do you sell/have toilet paper?

Safa tanda cha?
Toilet (charpi/paikhana) kahaa cha?
Toilet paper cha?

Miscellaneous
Yes/NoThere is/I have/He has
There isn’t/I haven’t/He hasn’t
Okay
Very
I likeI like Nepal
I need/I want
Do you speak English?
Is there someone who speaks English?
I come from (France)
Do you sell (biscuits)?
Where can I get (biscuits)?
Okay

Ho/Hoina
Cha
ChainaHunchadherai
Manparcha/manlagcha
Nepal manparcha(malai) chahincha
Inglish bolnu huncha?
Kohi inglish bolne cha?
Ma (France) bata aaeko(Biscuits) chaa?
(Biscuits) kahaa painchha?
Theek chha.

Health and safety
I have lost my way
I am very tired. I can’t walk any more
I had a fall
I have hurt my footI hit my head

Baato birayo
Ekdam thakai lagyo. Hirna sakdina.
LardyoKutta lagyo
Thauko lagyo

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