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WELCOME TO HIROSHIMA 2-3
SAIJO: SAKE TOWN 4-5
OYSTERS STRAIGHT FROM THE SHELL 6-7
GET OUT OF THE CITY: THREE UNIQUE DAY TRIPS 8-9
DAY TRIP 1: ONOMICHI 10-11
DAY TRIP 2: OKUNOSHIMA & TAKEHARA 12-13
DAY TRIP 3: SANDANKYO 14-15
OKONOMIYAKI 18-19
LOCAL FLAVOR 20-21
CITRUS PARADISE 22-23
A BRUSH WITH TRADITION 24-25
FAMOUS LOCAL PRODUCTS 26-27
ROOMS WITH A DIFFERENCE 28-29
TRAVEL TIPS 30-31
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WELCOME TO
HIROSHIMA

With such significant monuments defining the area,
many travellers are unaware that Hiroshima is also a
prefecture that extends well beyond the city limits.
Roughly four times the size of Tokyo, with 100 km

TOM MIYAGAWA COULTON

separating Hiroshima City in the west and Fukuyama

Mountainous islands, mild climate,and beautiful seas make Hiroshima theMediterranean of Japan.

itinerary and you too can get so much more out of

THE LANDSCAPES, FOOD,
AND ACTIVITIES NEVER
CEASE TO AMAZE

your journey to this beautiful part of the country.
We’ve also provided information on selectedaccommodation, travel tips, and food, alongwith a feature on Hiroshima okonomiyaki – withrecommendations from an expert on this much-

City in the east, it features a wonderfully diverse

loved savory pancake.

landscape with mountains and forests in the north,and the beautiful islands of the Seto Inland Sea

life inside a close-knit rural community or exploring

complete with golden sandy beaches in the south.

new corners of the prefecture.

Hiroshima, with its special place in world history, is

The cities, towns, and villages boast their own

a must-see destination for visitors to Japan. Its two

distinct cultures, traditions, and festivals.

World Heritage Sites hardly need an introduction.

It has been a privilege to create this booklet alongwith Hiroshima Prefecture, but the key ingredient

The range of landscapes, food, and activities available

has been the expertise of individuals living andin this region never cease to amaze our friends who

working in the places that we have covered.

The stark Atomic Bomb Dome and nearby Peace

In 2015, my wife and I relocated from Tokyo to thecome to visit. But it's no secret - everything is in plain

Through their involvement, you now have everything

Memorial Museum invite introspection to thehistoric town of Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island,

sight just waiting to be discovered.

you need to unlock the treasures this remarkableeffects of war and set the tone for experiencing theone of Hiroshima's islands in the Seto Inland Sea.

place has to offer.
In this issue we’ve highlighted some exciting day

city, and first time visitors typically head across thewater to Miyajima to view the iconic floating gate ofSince the move, we are constantly learning andtrips, focusing on destinations with straightforward

Itsukushima Shrine.

discovering new things - whether it's adjusting toaccess from Hiroshima City. So add a day to your

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5

SAIJO: SAKE TOWNKAZUO PEÑAAbout 35 minutes from Hiroshima City
lies Saijo, one of Japan's most famous
brewing districts, with plenty of history andcraftsmanship to take in.

down from Mt. Ryuozan located several kilometers

If you're in town in early October, you can catch thestyle okonomiyaki, ramen, oden, sushi, and pizza.

north of Saijo. Each brewery's water tastes slightly

annual Saijo Sake Festival which brings together

But you don't need to choose right away, as you candifferent, so feel free to take a bottle and try some forbrewers and sake aficionados from across theorder items from any of the other stalls and haveyourself, because it's the water that makes Saijo's sakecountry to some of Japan's oldest sake breweries.

them delivered to your seat.

so well respected.

In addition to the parades and activities held
throughout the town, local breweries open up their

Although the production facilities of the breweries

storehouses for special tasting events, and nearby

are closed to the general public, each has a

Saijo Central Park turns into a showcase where

SAKAGURA-DORI 酒蔵通り
A SHORT WALK (5 MINS) FROM JR SAIJO STATION

showroom where you can learn about their history

you can sample approximately 1,000 varieties forOnce you arrive, it's hard to miss Saijo's sake district.

and brewing methods, and of course, participate ina fixed entry fee. Dedicated sake lovers even book

Just come out of the station, find the distinctive redsake tasting.

their hotels for the following year before they return

SAIJO EKIMAE YATAI MURA 西条駅前屋台村

home.

2-15 SAIJO HONMACHI, HIGASHI HIROSHIMA

brick chimneys, and you’ll know you’re headed in the
Kamotsuru is a great place to start as it boasts one ofright direction.

For dinner and drinks, head over to nearby Saijo

As you walk along Sakagura-dori (Sake Brewery

arriving in autumn (when the sake is at its freshest)

Ekimae Yatai Mura (food stall village), which features

Street), you might notice locals filling up their water

won’t want to miss the hiya-oroshi, a type of seasonal

small, intimate eateries with a local, traditional

賀茂鶴酒造株式会社bottles with fresh water from small fountains. These

sake limited in number, with a mellow aroma andaesthetic. The stalls are run by friendly proprietors

4-31 SAIJO HONMACHI, HIGASHI HIROSHIMA

fountains are tapped into each brewery’s shikomi ido

well-balanced taste.

and frequented by both locals and visitors. Each stall

T/ 082 422 2121

KAMOTSURU SAKE BREWING COMPANY

specializes in particular dishes, such as Hiroshima
602

T/ 082 502 2338

the neighborhood’s largest tasting selections. Visitors(brewing water well), with the springwater flowing

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OYSTERS STRAIGHTFROM THE SHELL

the shell. However, Takashi Suzuki is trying to go“I saw oysters being grown in salt pans when I“The main point is all our oysters can be eaten raw.

against the grain with his oyster farm and adjoining

traveled around France. It's the perfect environment

It’s down to the environment on the island and therestaurant on the idyllic island of Osaki Kamijima.

for cultivating shellfish.”clean water, plus the oysters are grown within a“We grow oysters to be enjoyed raw. They are

According to Suzuki, the shallow depth of thesesmaller than oysters you usually find in Japan,

lakes means light can penetrate the water creating

making them the perfect size for one mouthful.”

the perfect environment for phytoplankton - oyster

The farm currently produces 300,000 oysters afood. In addition, the water running off theyear, exporting half abroad and the rest soldBorn and raised in Tokyo, Suzuki studied at thesurrounding mountains dilutes the salt content ofdomestically in oyster bars and restaurants inWith its natural inlets and the calm waters of

National Fisheries University before joining a

the seawater being pumped into the lakes.

Tokyo, Osaka, and Hiroshima.

the Seto Inland Sea, Hiroshima Prefecture is

trading company importing frozen shrimp fromblessed with a geography perfectly suited to oyster

Southeast Asia. But he always had a dream to one“Usually the salinity of seawater is 3.5% but here

production. Over 20,000 tons of the shellfish are

day produce high quality oysters in Japan andit’s about 2% less, this is key, because it lets us growharvested from Hiroshima’s waters every year

export them around the world.

a different type of phytoplankton compared withsheltered and protected lake that reduces the risk of

No visit to Hiroshima is complete without
trying its famous oysters - and the fresher
the better.

contamination.”what you usually find in the sea. The oysters andmaking the prefecture the nation’s largest producer.
His dream became a reality in 2011. On the northern

shrimp eat that plankton and their flavor improves.”

FARM SUZUKI ファームスズキ

In a land famed for its sushi and all things raw,

tip of Osaki Kamijima in the Seto Inland Sea, hevisitors to Japan soon find out its oysters are usuallycame across a set of disused artificial lakes which

With his newly opened restaurant built within the37-2 HIGASHINO TARUMI, OSAKI KAMIJIMA, TOYOTA

anything but. You are more likely to find them fried,

were originally salt pans created during the Edo

farm complex, travelers to the island can eat fresh

T/ 0846 65 3911

steamed, or grilled rather than eaten straight out of

Period and later used for shrimp production.

oysters straight out of the water.

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GET OUT OF THE CITY:
THREE UNIQUE DAY TRIPS
Beyond the city of Hiroshima lies an entire prefecture mostly
unexplored by foreign travelers. Discover the diverse sights andexperiences the region has to offer, by checking out these day
trips that are all easily accessible from Hiroshima City.
Most first time visitors go to Hiroshima’s two
World Heritage Sites - the Atomic Bomb Dome andItsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island. Whilethese are definitely must see spots, we recommend
staying in the area a little longer to take in more ofwhat the prefecture offers. A day trip is the best way
to enjoy the people and culture of the countryside.

FEATURED DAY TRIPS
1: ONOMICHI 尾道
PICTURESQUE SEASIDE TOWN WITH STUNNING VIEWS.
Hiroshima is actually a great city to use as your baseto explore this scenic part of Japan. Even if you don’t

2: OKUNOSHIMA & TAKEHARA 大久野島&竹原

rent a car, getting around is a breeze because of the

COVER TWO AREAS IN ONE DAY, A RABBIT ISLAND AND A HISTORICAL

comprehensive bus, train, and shinkansen service

TOWN.

in and out of Hiroshima Station. This is perfect for
travelers with Japan Rail Passes.
And lastly, we'll take a trip to the Sandankyo Gorge,

3: SANDANKYO GORGE 三段峡

To enhance your travel experience we've put

a scenic waterway known for its vibrant leaves in

ONE OF JAPAN'S MOST BEAUTIFUL GORGES AND A PERFECT NATURE TRIP

together three special day trips. First, we'll go

autumn.

JUST OVER AN HOUR FROM THE CITY.

to Onomichi, a quaint port city surrounded by
mountains. Then we'll head to Okunoshima,

Be sure to check out pages 16 and 17 of this booklet

which is teeming with rabbits, and Takehara forfor our bus and train itineraries to get you to yourpicturesque views of the sea and islands.

destination without a hitch.
1011DAY TRIP 1: ONOMICHIThe small seaside town of Onomichi is the perfect place to enjoy
walking around and experiencing the slow life on the Seto InlandSea, complete with cats and plenty of retro charm.
NORIKO KOBAYASHI
After arriving at Onomichi Station, head east to the

HIGHLIGHTS

retro shopping arcade, Onomichi Hondori. It's

› ›Explore the retro shopping arcade

1.6 km long but you won't find any chain stores here,› ›Wander Onomichi's small meandering alleyways

only small privately owned businesses. Don't miss› ›Eat Onomichi Ramen for lunch

Yuyu, a picturesque former public bath that has been

› ›Take the ropeway up to Senko-ji Temple

converted into a café and souvenir shop.

› ›Walk along cat alley and around the hillside› ›Stroll along the waterfront› ›Relax at the stylish Onomichi U2Experimental Japanese movie director and local
native Nobuhiko Obayashi, who filmed a trilogy ofmovies in the area, said that he wants fans of hismovies to explore Onomichi. And there is definitely
fun to be had getting lost in Onomichi's maze ofnarrow alleyways.
For lunch, try the renowned Onomichi style of shoyu
ramen, known for its steaming hot, rich broth andpork fat. The most famous restaurant is Shuka-en
but there's usually a 15 to 20 minute wait to get in, so
if you don't want to wait in line, try the equally good
Menya Zohyo down the road.
After lunch, take a short stroll to the ropeway thattakes you to the top of Mt. Senkoji. You can see
the whole town and the Onomichi Strait from theobservation deck at the summit. To return, walk
down cat alley filled with lovable strays. If you want

YUYU ゆーゆー

to explore more, there are lots of cute cafés, bakeries,

1-3-20 TSUCHIDO-CHO, ONOMICHIand galleries dotting the hillside.

T/ 0848 25 5505

After enjoying the old traditional side of Onomichi,

SHUKA-EN 朱華園

walk along the waterfront towards the city's new U2

4-12 TOYOHIMOTO-MACHI, ONOMICHI

complex, a warehouse converted into a cycling-

T/ 0848 37 2077

themed hotel complete with a stylish bakery, cafe,

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bar, and restaurant where you can relax before taking

MT. SENKOJI ROPEWAY 千光寺山ロープウェイ 03

the train back to Hiroshima.

20-1 HIGASHI TSUCHIDO-CHO, ONOMICHI
T/ 0848 22 4900
12

DAY TRIP 2:
OKUNOSHIMA &TAKEHARA

For lunch, head to Nakazawa, a natural food shop

Rabbit cafés are gaining popularity in cities
across Japan, but in Okunoshima you'resurrounded by cute little bunnies just about
everywhere you go.

› ›Hop on a ferry from Tadanoumi to Okunoshima

with a vegetarian macrobiotic cafe in the back,and make sure to taste the local sake at the Fujii
Brewery. Stick around for dinner and you won't bedisappointed, but there's also plenty of time to get ameal back in Hiroshima.

VALERIE MILLERHIGHLIGHTS› ›Feed the rabbits!
› ›Rent bicycles at Kyukamura Hotel and cycle around the island› ›Visit the Takehara Historical District› ›Grab a vegetarian macrobiotic lunch at Nakazawa› ›Sake tasting at Fujii Brewery

Okunoshima (known colloquially as Rabbit Island)is an increasingly popular destination on the sea.
Just a short ferry ride from Tadanoumi, it is easily
accessible from downtown Hiroshima City. It alsofits in perfectly with a trip to Takehara to make aleisurely yet varied day trip out of the city.
Before you make your way to the island, it's worth
picking up some cabbage and carrots at the ferry
terminal at Tadanoumi, so you can spend your timeon the island feeding the rabbits.
A good place to start on the island is the visitor centerfeaturing exhibits about the local wildlife, but you'll
probably spot plenty of the island's main attraction
before you even get there. On Okunoshima there are
rabbits all over the place, and no one is exactly sure

KYUKAMURA HOTEL 休暇村ホテル

how they got there.

OHKUNOSHIMA,TADANOUMI, TAKEHARA

01

T/ 0846 26 0321
If you don't feel like hiking around the hills, you canrent a bike at the Kyukamura Hotel and explore the

SAIHO-JI TEMPLE 西方寺

island dotted with dilapidated buildings, remnants of

3-10-44 HONMACHI, TAKEHARA

its dark past as a poison gas production facility.

T/ 0846 22 7745

When you return to Tadanoumi, take a 10 minute

NAKAZAWA なかざわtrain ride to Takehara. A short walk from the station

1-9-8 HOMMACHI, TAKEHARA

brings you to the historical preservation district with

T/ 0846 22 2157

old buildings dating back to the Edo Era. There aretemples tucked into the hillside and an incredible

FUJII BREWERY 藤井酒蔵

view of the area from the Fumeikaku veranda of the

3-4-14 HONMACHI, TAKEHARA

temple, Saiho-ji.

T/ 0846 22 2029
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DAY TRIP 3:
SANDANKYO GORGEHIGHLIGHTSMIKIKO HATTORI AND SHINJI KASHIWAZAKI

In autumn, hikers searching for adventure in theOnce you return to the entrance of the gorge, you› ›Arrive at the entrance of Sandankyo by bus

rolling hills of Hiroshima Prefecture come to thiscan enjoy a rejuvenating bath at the Sandankyo› ›Trek for one hour to Kurobuchi Poolarea to take in the colorful leaves. Painted in vibrantHotel. Although it's not an open-air bath, the› ›Board a small boat that takes you to Kurobuchi-so restaurant

yellows, oranges and reds, they peak between thepanoramic windows look out across the valley.

› ›Try the salted trout and somen noodles at Kurobuchi-so› ›Cross the rope bridge spanning the gorge

end of October and the first week of November.

One of the most picturesque areas in Japan,
with incredible rock formations, crystal
clear rivers, and colorful seasonal changes
is hidden away in the northern part ofHiroshima.

The waters around here are called bijin-no-yu,› ›Relax in the onsen at Sandankyo Hotel

When you arrive at Kurobuchi Pool, you may findor “beautifying waters”, said to make your skin

› ›Grab dinner at the Sandankyo Senryu restaurantthat there is no boat in sight, but don't worry, justlook and feel younger. It's the perfect way to feel

› ›Head back to Hiroshima or stay the night if you can!

pull the hanging rope and a wooden boat should

refreshed before heading back to Hiroshima.

arrive shortly. From the tranquil waters, enjoy the

KUROBUCHI-SO 黒淵荘

view of the rocky cliffs, the lush forest, and open

1729 SHIWAGI, AKIOTA-CHO, YAMAGATA

Once you arrive at the entrance of Sandankyo

sky. It takes about 10 minutes to cross the pool, with

T/ 0826 28 2719

Gorge, you'll first cross a red bridge with a lovely

the ride finishing at the Kurobuchi-so restaurant.

view of the gorge. Regardless of the season, you'll be# The shops in Sandankyo are closed from the end ofamazed at how beautiful the water is and how clean

For lunch at Kurobuchi-so, try the salt baked trout

the air feels.

and the somen noodles. If you order rice balls, you
can also take them out and picnic by the water.
16

SANDANKYO SENRYU 三段峡 川流

TIP

November to the end of March due to snow.

1727 SHIWAGI, AKIOTA-CHO, YAMAGATA
T/ 0826 28 2203

# The boat service may not run due to inclement weather.

TIP

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HIROSHIMABY TRAIN¥2,460HIROSHIMA BUS CENTERHIROSHIMA

Shinkansen Kodama
27 MINSHIROSHIMA BUS CENTERBY BUS
BUS CENTER ~ TADANOUMI | ¥1,490

HIROSHIMA BUS CENTERBY BUS
DEPARTS 8:18AM |¥1,440

HIROSHIMABY TRAIN¥580

ONOMICHI

JR San'yo Main Line
20 MINSONOMICHI EKIMAE

Flower Liner
1HR 34MINSBY BUS
¥1,750BY TRAINHIROSHIMA ~ OKUNOSHIMA | ¥2,770
OKUNOSHIMA ~ TAKEHARA | ¥510

MIHARA

Shinkansen Kodama
27 MINSMIHARA

JR Kure Line
22 MINSTADANOUMIWalk
5 MINS

Geiyo Bus
1 HR 42 MINS

Hiroden Sandankyo Line
1 HR 15 MINS

JR San'yo Main Line
35 MINS

TAKEHARA

JR Kure Line
12 MINSTADANOUMI PORT

Ferry
15 MINSOKUNOSHIMASANDANKYOSAIJOLOPEZ ロペズ

02

1-7-13 KUSUNOKI-CHO, NISHI-KU, HIROSHIMA
T/ 082 232 5277

OKONOMIYAKI

Lopez insists on using the best ingredients, and theway he cooks the noodles is very unique - taking
care to fry each individual noodle rather than frying
them all together in order to bring out more flavor.
Though not a Japanese native (Lopez hails from
Guatemala), he's highly respected in Hiroshima not
only for his okonomiyaki, but also because he's very
active in training other okonomiyaki chefs. Many
former apprentices have started their own popular
restaurants, which is a great source of pride for him.

GOKU 悟空

PROFESSOR KENICHI HOSOI

03

8-7 HATCHOBORI, NAKA-KU, HIROSHIMA

Centered around a bed of noodles, and layered rather than mixed,
Hiroshima’s take on the dish is a source of local pride.
Cooked in front of you, it's more than dinner, it’s an experience.

T/ 082 224 5901
Goku's specialty is using very thin noodles, so
the finished okonomiyaki is relatively thin but
still delicious, and the texture is different when

Hiroshima okonomiyaki is a savory pancake-promoting Hiroshima and its unique style ofcompared to other okonomiyaki you usually find.

style dish made of flour, cabbage, noodles, andokonomiyaki around the world. Here are four

Along with their standard offerings, they havevaried ingredients layered one on top of the other,restaurants recommended by Professor Hosoi foran extensive side menu and even feature a spicy

smothered in sauce, and cooked on an iron grill.

those seeking some of the best the city has to offer.

version made with habanero-infused noodles andWe spoke to Professor Hosoi of Hiroshima

You'll find okonomiyaki all over the city, and eachcovered in habanero chili powder. This comes highly

University of Economics and member of theshop has its own unique style. Pull a chair up to therecommended for fans of spicy food, but they also

Okonomiyaki Academy, which is dedicated togrill and start picking your toppings!

offer plenty of other options for the milder palate.

ICCHAN いっちゃん

HIDEYA ひで家

01

2-37 MATSUBARA-CHO, MINAMI-KU, HIROSHIMA

1-14-3 KOIHONMACHI, NISHI-KU, HIROSHIMA

T/ 082 261 0680

T/ 082 274 1101

Icchan focuses on their ingredients and are experts at

Hideya's noodles are fried thoroughly, so theirbringing out the natural flavors of the okonomiyaki,

okonomiyaki has a rather crispy texture. So much so,

as such they are honored with a listing in the

you can hear the crunch when you cut into it with theprestigious Michelin Guide. Their okonomiyaki has

spatula. Hideya is in Nishi Hiroshima, and as therea refined and delicate taste, so it might be better forare some guesthouses in the area they're used topeople who have eaten Hiroshima okonomiyaki

serving foreign customers. Although the staff don't

before, rather than first-timers. The Japanese have a

speak English, communication is never a problem

tendency to crave basic, simple flavors such as white

and they've become a local mainstay for their unique

rice and miso soup, and this is the okonomiyakistyle.

version of that.

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your meal in the restaurant, get there early or be

before continuing on to the stadium for the big

prepared to wait in line for a seat, as a visit to Ueno

game.

has long been a staple of any visit to Miyajima andIn the Musubi Musashi restaurants, you can sit andwaiting times can reach one hour.

enjoy the store’s original udon noodles that forOnomichi Ramensome are just as popular as its musubi.

A signature dish of Onomichi, fans of this shoyu
and fish broth noodle dish travel far and wide to

FEATURED SPOTS

enjoy it. One characteristic of Onomichi Ramen is
the se-abura - small pieces of pork fat in the soup.

LOCAL FLAVOR

It might not sound too enticing, but it makes all

ANAGO MESHI UENO あなごめし うえの

the difference in this delicious variety of Japanese

1-5-11 MIYAJIMAGUCHI, HATSUKAICHI

ramen.

T/ 0829 56 0006

base of the next batch, creating an unbroken chain

You can find shops specializing in this style of

MENYA ZOHYO 麺や 雑兵

stretching back over 100 years.

ramen throughout Onomichi. Shuka-en is the

3-23 TOYOHI MOTOMACHI, ONOMICHI

undisputed favorite, but two other famous shops are

T/ 0848 37 6755

to its signature dish. The unused glaze forms the

Okonomiyaki is Hiroshima's specialty, butthere are plenty of other local dishes toenjoy from the prefecture.

Originally started as a bento (lunchbox) shop at

Menya Zohyo and Kuukai.

KUUKAI 喰海

the newly opened Miyajima Station in 1897, thecut pieces of anago are placed on top of a bed ofMusubi Musashi

1-12-11 TSUCHID0, ONOMICHI

Anago Meshi Ueno

specially flavored rice. Anago are plentiful in the

These bento have long been a favorite among

T/ 0848 24 8133

The secret for any good grilled anago (conger eel)waters around Miyajima and this dish is a local

Hiroshima residents. There are different types ofdish is in the glaze - and Anago Meshi Ueno hasdelicacy.

bento on offer, each featuring Musubi Musashi's

MUSUBI MUSASHI むすび むさし

signature musubi (onigiri).

1-2 MATSUBARA-CHO, HIGASHI-KU, HIROSHIMA

been perfecting theirs for four generations.
Anago Meshi Ueno is still a family run business

T/ 082 261 0634

The anago fillets are dipped in the glaze, grilled,with Junichi Ueno being its fourth generation

A popular chain with locals, there are shops locateddipped again, and grilled yet again. This careful

owner. Conveniently located near the ferryin the main train stations around Hiroshima City.

repetition and timing create subtle layers of flavor

terminal, you can still buy the famous anago

You can often see fans of the Hiroshima Carpthat make Ueno the best in class when it comes

bento or eat at the restaurant. If you prefer to havebaseball team buying their favorite Musashi bento

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CITRUS PARADISE
With its Mediterranean climate, Hiroshima's islands in the Seto
Inland Sea have a long history of growing citrus fruits.
We met with a woman carrying on the family tradition.

While the Setouchi Lemon is now getting plenty ofand editor in Hiroshima City. “I always loved thisattention by foodies, the first fruit from this regionarea, and when my father got older I wanted to

to gain recognition was the Ocho Orange, grown on

come back and help him on the farm. That was 23

the mountains surrounding the small town of Ocho

years ago.”on Osaki Shimojima Island.
Typically in Japan the eldest son takes over the
Although the number of citrus farmers isfamily business, but for citrus farmers in Ocho thedecreasing, Japanese demand for local produce is on

youngest child is expected to continue the family

the rise, and the groves are still being cultivated.

farm. “In the past, the older children were sent

We visited Toshiko Hida, one of the few female

out as pioneers to establish their own citrus farms

farmers in the area, who returned to Ocho to run

on neighboring islands and the mainland. I'm theher family citrus farm.

youngest of six siblings, so it worked out just right.”

Oranges weren't always a mainstay of the area.

If you visit Osaki Shimojima Island you'll find tiny

“Originally people in Ocho grew small peaches, but

unmanned roadside stalls with locally grown citrus

after orange saplings from Kyushu were introduced

for sale throughout most of the year.

in 1904, orange production took off and by 1935,
40% of all oranges sold in Tokyo came from thissmall island and were even shipped abroad.”

Toshiko's seasonal favorites are:› ›Feb-Mar: Navel Orange, Harumi Orange

The golden era of the Ocho Orange lasted until 1955,› ›Mar-April: Dekopon Orange

when import tariffs were lifted on citrus fruits.

› ›Oct-June: Ocho Lemon

Combined with the growth of citrus producers› ›Nov-Dec: Wase Mikan (Ocho Orange)

within Japan, the market swelled and prices
dropped. Nonetheless, farmers on the island
persevered and diversified by creating new strainsof oranges, keeping the Ocho brand alive.

YUTAKAMACHI TOURISM ASSOCIATION

Toshiko's parents were citrus farmers in Ocho, but

187-1 YUTAKAMACHI MITARAI, KURE

she was living and working as a camera assistant

T/ 0823 67 2278

豊町観光協会25

01

A BRUSH WITH
TRADITION

Apprentices can expect precious little praise. It's no

carefully he tackles just one of the 12 brush-making

wonder so many of them simply drop out. Minato

steps illustrated in the photographs displayed behindhimself was tempted to quit. “I didn't really enjoy

him.

brush-making in my younger days.” So how old were
Which step are you up to? Minato glances over his

you when you finally started to enjoy your work?

ADAM FULFORD

shoulder at the photos. “Step number three:Once a cottage industry, now Kumano's
makeup and calligraphy brushes are
considered the best in the world.

ke-soroe,” he replies. “The hair is combed thoroughly“About fifty!”

and any loose fluff is taken out. Then the hair is
Though the early years were trying, he perservered

stacked flat in layers, one small cluster at a time, andand began to recieve recognition for his work.

combed many times in order to enhance its quality.”

Chances are, you haven't heard of the town of

One milestone was his designation as a Master ofKumano in Hiroshima Prefecture, but if you have

Traditional Crafts, a prestigious title only granted topurchased any high-end cosmetic brushes in theartisans of the highest tier in the country.

past, they were probably manufactured here. For at

For a moment, Minato's gaze lingers on the photos.
the delicate nuance of Japanese calligraphy would be“I see that what I was doing when you came along

impossible without his ability to select and combine

isn't listed up there,” he says. So there are one or twoother processes. How many altogether?

least a century before their makeup brushes began

These days you'll find Minato working away on hishair from animals as varied as goat, badger, squirrel,

to win global acclaim, hundreds of people here werebrushes in Fudenosato Kobo, a facility showcasing

and weasel.

producing brushes for writing and painting.

brush culture and craftsmanship in the town where

Following in his father's footsteps, Hiroshi Minato“Seventy-three.”the vast majority of Japan's brushes are made -Inscribed on the plaque that Minato received from15 million of them each year, in fact.

the government as a Master of Traditional Crafts
is his professional name, Gosetsu, written using

began making brushes at the age of 15.
While the production of ordinary brushes may

characters meaning “strength” and “snow”, which“My father never taught me a thing. I had to 'steal'

involve the use of machines and synthetic fibers, theallude to the dynamic power of his brushes and to

FUDENOSATO KOBO 筆の里工房

his techniques,” he says, using the word nusumu thattype of brush that Minato continues to produce are

their pristine beauty.

5-17-1 NAKAMIZO, KUMANO-CHO, AKI

you often hear when people talk about traditional

entirely handmade from animal hair.

T/ 082 855 3010
He only completes about 25 brushes a day, but thatcrafts in Japan. The student has to observe very
carefully and gradually pick up skills over time.

Minato also makes strategic use of different fibers as
26

doesn't seem such a small number when you see how
27

01

02

03

04

FAMOUS LOCALPRODUCTS

is great with pasta), and don't pass up the famous

We've picked some exceptional local products that

KUMANO BRUSHES 熊野筆

define the region, starting with handmade Kumano

KUMANOFUDE SELECT SHOP - FROM 1,000 YEN

Ikaten Setouchi Lemon Flavor, a salty and crunchy
snack flavored with squid and local lemons.

brushes that supply the world's best cosmetic

MOMIJI MANJU もみじまんじゅう

brands, with a large selection available.

01

02

FUJIIYA - 90 YEN
Also, don't miss out on Momiji manju from
Miyajima - small maple leaf shaped cakes filled

KAKIYA NO OIRUZUKE 牡蠣屋のオイル漬けwith sweet bean paste. Other variations including

KAKIYA - 1300 YEN

chocolate, custard, or matcha.

IKATEN SETOUCHI LEMON FLAVOR

01

From the same region is Kakiya no oiruzuke, oysters

イカ天 瀬戸内れもん味

marinated and preserved with oil and spices (the oil

324 YEN
29

03

04

ROOMS WITH A DIFFERENCE
01

HOTEL CYCLE - U2

HOTEL SANDANKYO

5-11 NISHI GOSHO-CHO, ONOMICHI

三段峡ホテルT/ 0848 21 0550

1734 SHIWAGI, AKIOTA, YAMAGATA

03

T/ 0826 28 2308
Located inside the chic andmodern Onomichi U2 complex,

Situated at the mouth of

this hotel was designed andSandankyo, this beautiful

constructed for cyclists. The

Japanese style building has therooms come fitted with special

feel of a large ryokan, rather thanwall space to hang up your bicyclethat of a regular hotel. Perchednext to the bed. The complex

on one side of the ravine withfeatures a range of restaurants,

wonderful views of the woods

bars and coffee shops. There's also

and the river flowing below, youa cycle store so you can do somecan even enjoy this view whilelast minute maintenance or makesoaking in the onsen. It's thesome purchases before hitting theperfect starting point for your

Shimanami Kaido cycle route to

explorations of the extensive

Shikoku.

gorge and its waterfalls.

www.onomichi-u2.com

www.sandankyo.co.jp

MIHARASHI TEI みはらし亭

02

Y51

15-7 HIGASHI TSUCHIDO-CHO, ONOMICHI

761-3 KAZAHAYA, OSHIBAJIMA

T/ 0848 23 3684

AKITSU-CHO, HIGASHI HIROSHIMA

04

T/ 0846 45 6251
Miharashi Tei is a renovated30

guesthouse offering some of theConnected to the mainland

best views of Onomichi. Locatedby a short bridge just east ofon the hill just under the famous

Takehara, this elegant and stylish

Senko-ji temple, the 100 year-old

cottage sits on tranquil Oshibabuilding is in the traditional

Island in the Seto Inland Sea. It

saen (tea culture) architecturaloffers a spectacular view of thestyle. The guesthouse offers

coastline, islands, and wildlife.

both shared dormitory rooms

The cottage accommodates up

and private tatami rooms at very

to eight people and has provenaffordable rates, making this an

to be a hit on Airbnb, especially

ideal destination for backpackers

among overseas travelers looking

on a budget.

to unwind.

miharashi.onomichisaisei.com/en/

www.facebook.com/y51bythesea/

31

CATCH SOME BASEBALLGEAR UP FOR THE GAMEGETTING AROUND

TRANSPORT PASSES

A different experience from its Americancounterpart, nothing beats the festival-likeatmosphere of Japanese baseball, and few
fans are as passionate about their team as
those of the Hiroshima Carp.

Once you get to the stadium, you'll want to
get into the spirit and cheer on the team.
Die hard fans always come prepared.

Hiroshima has its own unique way of getting
around, from electric streetcars to ferries
crossing between islands.

You won't be able to go around everywherewith your standard Suica e-money card.
Get the local Paspy card, or better yet get apass that let's you use just about everything
during your trip, no matter where you go.

01

Using the streetcars is an efficient and cheap

JERSEYS

way to navigate Hiroshima City. With stops at

Japanese pro baseball is divided into two

IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, SHOWING YOUR COLORSHiroshima Station, the A-Bomb Dome, andleagues, the Central and Pacific - both comprised of

IS A FUNDAMENTAL WAY TO SUPPORT YOUR TEAM.

Miyajimaguchi, the trams regularly run back andaccept the local “Paspy” card and JR West’s “Icoca”

forth between all the main sights.

card. Some smaller ferries will only accept cash.

01

six teams each. Historically underdogs, in 2016 the01

Streetcars, buses, and ferries in Hiroshima only

Unfortunately, you can’t use the Paspy on JR trains.

Hiroshima Carp dominated the Central League.

KUNG FU BATS

02

SPARE YOUR HANDS THE PAIN OF NON-STOP

city, with final destinations displayed on both the02

CLAPPING BY USING PLASTIC BASEBALL BATS.

front of the streetcar and at streetcar stops. There's aand cheapest option if you don’t have a JR Pass. It

you'll see complete strangers high-fiving each otherflat rate of 160 yen for the inner-city section and an

can’t be used on JR Lines, but it gives you unlimited

and enjoying the party-like atmosphere.

extra zone-based fare when you use the Miyajima

travel for three days on streetcar lines, buses aroundLine.

the prefecture, and the ferry to Miyajima.

02

Carp fans are fiercely loyal and you'll find them

all throughout the country. Even at away games

SKY JET BALLOONS
There's no "Take Me Out to the Ballgame." In

IN HIROSHIMA, THE SEVENTH INNING STRETCH IS

fact, many Japanese don't know the song. Instead,

CELEBRATED WITH A FLURRY OF RED BALLOONS.

03

at the seventh inning stretch, they blow up redballoons with noisemakers and release them all

LOCAL SAKE

together.

03

There are seven color-coded lines that cross the03

There are two main types of ferries. A standard

You can purchase tickets at the MAZDA Zoom-

GLASS OF LOCAL CARP-BRAND SAKE.

Purchase the passes at Hiroshima Airport,

ferry for passengers and cars and an express service

Hiroshima Station, Hiroshima Bus Center, or Orizuru

just for passengers. Ferry travel can often be theTower Tourist Information Center.

fastest and easiest method of transport.
04

CELEBRATE A WINNING SEASON AT HOME WITH A
04

The Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass is the easiest

04

For busier ferry routes, tickets are usually

An easily recognizable red bus with a maple

leaf on the front is tailored for visitors to Hiroshima,

Zoom Stadium ticket office on game days frompurchased in the ferry terminal before boarding.

and goes from Hiroshima Station to all major

11 AM until 30 minutes before the game ends or

Otherwise, it's common to pay once you're on board

sightseeing spots. Use your JR Pass or pay 200 yen

10 PM, whichever comes first.

for very short journeys or on less popular routes.

when you disembark.

32

33

SHIMANE PREFECTURE
Acknowledgements

About

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Michael Keferl

NAVITIME for Japan Travel is the most

EDITOR | Tom Miyagawa Coulton

downloaded smartphone app for travelers
visiting Japan. Available in English,

ART DIRECTION | Mimmo Cangiano Belcuore

Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese,

ASSISTANT DESIGNER | Kosuke Inoueand Korean.

PHOTO EDITOR | Don Kennedy

Featuring Japan’s most popular train route

ILLUSTRATIONS | IC4 DESIGN

search functionality, the app also includes

SANDANKYOHIROSHIMA PREFECTURE
AKIOTAdoor-to-door route search, navigation, realPRODUCTION

time train timetables, and offline search for

Yoko Kitakoga

free wifi spots.

FUKUYAMASAIJOMarky StarONOMICHIHIROSHIMA CITY
TAKEHARAWRITERSTom Miyagawa Coulton

OKUNOSHIMAKUMANOOSHIBAJIMA

Adam Fulford
Michael Keferl
Kazuo Peña

OSAKI SHIMOJIMA

Marky Star

PHOTOGRAPHERS
Tom Miyagawa Coulton
Don Kennedy

CONTRIBUTORS
Mikiko Hattori
Professor Kenichi Hosoi

GETTING TO HIROSHIMA WITH THE JAPAN RAIL PASS

Shinji Kashiwazaki
Noriko Kobayashi

TOKYO - HIROSHIMANAGOYA - HIROSHIMAKYOTO - HIROSHIMA
SHIN-OSAKA - HIROSHIMAHAKATA - HIROSHIMA

Valerie Miller

PRINTER株式会社 誠文堂 (Seibundou)
Published October 2016

Publisher

発行人

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

NAVITIME JAPAN Co., Ltd.

株式会社ナビタイムジャパン

reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,

Minami Aoyama Tokyo Bldg.

〒107-0062

electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or any storage

3-8-38, Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku

東京都港区南青山三丁目8-38

and retrieval system, without permission in writing from

Tokyo, Japan, 107-0062

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