FREES P R I N GNARA IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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HANAMI IN BLOOM 2-5
DISCOVERING NARA’S SECRETS 6-7
RURAL NARA: UDA CITY 8-9
A STROLL DOWN NARAMACHI 10-11
ARTISANS OF NARA 14-16
NEW BEGINNINGS 20-23
OFF TO WORK/OFF TO SCHOOL 24-25
RANDOSERU, A RITE OF PASSAGE 26-27
SMALL TOKYO: GAKUGEI DAIGAKU 28-29
TRAVEL TIPS 30-31

HANAMI IN BLOOMTOP HANAMI SPOTS

life, is fleeting.

In Japan, a special tradition that can truly
be called time-honored is hanami 花見, orflower viewing.

The much-anticipated blooming of sakura happens

These days, in busy metropolitan areas, the early

each spring for roughly two weeks in any given

scouting and marking-off of picnic space withplace, with regional climates affecting the timing. In

tarpaulin is a crucial first step, especially during the

UENO PARK

fact, it’s so ingrained in the national consciousness

first weekend of full bloom. Parties form around all

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that news outlets forecast and track the bloomingmanner of social ties, with families, work colleagues,

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beginning in Okinawa in late January and sweeping

couples, and haphazard collections of friends.

While mi 見 means to look, and hana 花 indicatesthe archipelago northward to Hokkaido by late April

CHIDORIGAFUCHI PARK

flower, hanami is widely understood to referor early May.

1−1 KITANOMARU KOEN, CHIYODA, TOKYO

specifically to sakura, the blossom of the cherry

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tree, of which there are several hundred varieties all

References to hanami date back to the Naraaround Japan.

period (710–794), and span a wealth of important

SHINJUKU GYOUEN PARK

poetry, literature, such as the “Tale of Genji”, and

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Some rare varieties of the cherry tree bloom in

art including paintings and woodblock prints. In

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colors ranging from green and yellow to white, but

those times, hanami was a stately affair in which

the majority in Japan are bright pink and seemingly

participants enjoyed seasonal food and drink at

spring from nowhere to blanket the country starting

picnics under sakura trees. They also composedat the end of March.

delicate poetry and spent time in contemplation of
the ephemeral beauty that, like so many things in
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TOP HANAMI SPOTSAs always, food and drink are of supreme importance

Hanami can be truly sublime. Visitors are often

and seem to eclipse the flowers themselves, whichamazed at how peaceful such large drunken

form more of a backdrop for the revelry. Saké isgatherings can be, and how diligently people clean

OSAKA CASTLE PARK

up the area by themselves.

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a perennial favorite, but any alcohol will do (in“...THE EPHEMERALBEAUTY, THAT LIKE SO
MANY THINGS IN LIFE, IS
FLEETING...”

significant quantities no less), and most gatherings
have a potluck type of etiquette, with both food anddrink being shared.
Recently a faux-news comedy website featured amap of the nation marked with dates for major
cities, called “Japan Releases Dates for Getting

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But don’t forget, amid the revelry, to take a moment

HIMEJI CASTLE

and consider the delicate lesson of the blossom, this68 HONMACHI, HIMEJI, HYOGO

too shall pass.

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DAIGO-JI TEMPLE

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22 DAIGOHIGASHIOJI-CHO, FUSHIM, KYOTO
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Wasted in a Park”. Satirizing the actual forecasts

TODAI-JI TEMPLE

issued by the state weather agency, it nonetheless406-1 ZOSHI-CHO, NARA

points to the truth of modern hanami; that theT/ 0742-22-5511

Japanese flood their parks and get drunk until the

MEGURO RIVER

last fragile petal falls.

MEGURO, TOKYO

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DISCOVERING NARA’S
SECRETSappropriately named the Kofun Period.

JORDY MEOW

by Nara Park, but there’s much more to discover.

and austerity of Shin-Yakushi-ji’s exteriors have

The shotengai (shopping street) of Mochiido issomething magical that draws you inside to face

My favorite is the kofun of Emperor Seimu, though

beautiful towards the end, with a lot of shops

a two-meter high Buddha hidden surrounded by

not for the tomb in itself (except using a drone anddedicated to cats, and you can find even more in the

twelve guardian deities.

filming from above), but rather for its surroundings.

little streets and winding alleyways behind.

It is located in an ancient residential area called

Upon coming to Japan, I first knew Narafor its cute and hungry deer, and majestic
landmarks such as Kasuga Taisha andTodaiji Temple. Now, living as one of Nara’s
370,000 local inhabitants, I have discovereda different city.

Of course, these are just a small sample of theMisasagicho which is full of things to see, such as

At the end of this shotengai you can cross the

Nara I’m coming to know, with many more newold houses, farm fields, and hidden shrines.

street and walk towards a very interesting part ofdiscoveries to be found and photographed.

Naramachi, away from the tourists and much closer
In the center of Nara, right next to the park, there

to the original heart of Nara, where the atmosphereis also another secretly kept structure named

is much quieter despite the activity. I usually go up

Zuto, which is also referred to as the Pyramid ofto the Shōnen-ji Temple, try to find my way to Jurin-Nara. Said to be inspired by a similar pyramid inin Temple, go back to the Sarusawa Pond, and then

NARA KOFUN

My first surprising discovery about Nara was theIndonesia, it was recently restored to its original

stop in front of the classic Nara Hotel. There are a

MISASAGI-CHO, NARA

sheer number and physical size of the kofun in thecondition from over 1,200 years ago and now allows

few traditional coffee shops around just waiting toarea. I hadn’t really heard about them until they

visitors daily.

be found.

Maps where, from above, they look like enormous

Since I live in Nara and do a fair bit of walking

Nara also has amazing temples, which are almost

green keyholes covered with trees and surrounded

and jogging, my favorite area to go through isonly visited by Japanese tourists. In my opinion,

by water, making them difficult to even notice fromNaramachi, a historic district that is now becoming

the most beautiful one is Hannya-ji, especially

SHIN-YAKUSHI-JI TEMPLE

ground level. In fact, the kofun are burial mounds

more of a tourist hub. Right now it seems that mostduring the autumn season when its 100,000

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constructed between the 3rd to 7th centuries, an era

tourists only visit the area closest to the main street

cosmos flowers are in bloom, but the simplicity

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HANNYA-JI TEMPLE

caught my eye while looking at Nara on Google

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RURAL NARA: UDA CITYTOMOMI YOKOTANINara Prefecture is much more than justNara City, with perfectly kept rural towns
and villages dotting the countryside, andwelcoming visitors for a quieter, less hurriedexperience in Japanese life.

May is rice-planting season, so with this festival
we pray for a successful harvest and celebrate it inadvance! Local participants mimic rice planting
while wearing traditional costumes, as on this day
we are not supposed to actually plant our own rice
fields, but rather plant for the gods.

Traditional cities like Kyoto and Nara have long
attracted tourists from around the world, but now

As part of the tradition, men dressed as youngthat visitors are starting to go a bit off the beaten

female farmers dance to the traditional farming

path they’re discovering that just nearby aresongs, while children play tricks on them, suchtowns steeped in history and overflowing with theas flipping up their skirts. It is believed that the

beauties of the countryside. Such is the case withnaughtier the trick, the richer the harvest.

Uda, my hometown, situated on the Yamato Plateau
in northeastern Nara Prefecture.

Such rituals are rare in Japan, and harken back to
the agricultural lifestyle of the olden times.

Uda is actually made up of four historical towns:
Haibara, Ouda, Utano, and Muro, each with its own
history and character. Like much of Nara Prefecture
the temperate climate and atmosphere invoke theclassic, rural Japan that somehow even city-dwellers
can “remember” and feel a nostalgia for despite
never living there.
The original castle town Ouda is home to the ruinsof the Uda Matsuyama castle, but especially attracts
visitors to the fortified residence of Goto-Matabei,a samurai from the Warring-States Period. Juttingout from the tall rock walls is the ancient Matabei
Zakura, an iconic weeping cherry tree of 300 years
named after the famed warlord himself.

HAKUSAN JINJA SHRINE
Walking around through the different parts of Uda

1047 OUDANOYORI, UDA CITY, NARA

shows every element of traditional countryside life,

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from rice fields and brilliant red azaleas in spring toan abundance of maple trees that peak to a bright

HAIBARAHAGIHARA RICEFIELDS

red in the fall. The people of Uda have appreciated

HAIBARAHAGIHARA, UDA CITY, NARA

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and worshipped this local nature and continue
these traditional rituals, such as the Onda Festival

MATABEI ZAKURA

on May 5th in Ouda.

OUDA HONGOU, UDA CITY, NARA

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A STROLL DOWN NARAMACHI
Within the old quarter of Nara City lies a former merchant district
where beautifully preserved machiya still exude the elegance ofJapan’s former capital.

CHECK THE MAP
demonstration, noticed my work and explained thatYU NAKAGAWA BOUTIQUE

this high-speed way of making rice cakes is unique31-1 GANRIIN-CHO, NARA

to Nara.

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CHIKUTAKKU BAKERYADRIAN HOGAN

I continued walking until I arrived at Naramachi,23−1 MINAMIICHI-CHO, NARA

the old merchant quarter, where I was able to go

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Nara has the authenticity, craftsmanship, honest

When I arrived in Nara, the first area I explored wasinside many of the homes, and stay at the

NARA HOTEL

food and pure experiences that make it significantly

the long shopping arcade that stretches from Nara

Naramachi Guesthouse and Restaurant.

1096 TAKABATAKE-CHO, NARA

different to the well-worn paths of Kyoto and Osaka.

Station down to Naramachi, the old quarter.

Interestingly, the recently completed lodge was built

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inside what used to be an old soy sauce factory.

NARAIZUMI SAKÉ BAR

As an illustrator, nothing is more rewarding thanAs I walked down the narrow arcade, vendors

being able to travel across Japan with a sketchbook

cheerfully waved and welcomed customers, and I

As I walked through the streets I came upon a sign

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and pen to document my experiences.

noticed immediately that the Japanese spoken herethat pointed to a “Water of Tea” down a nearby

UN JOUR CHILDREN’S BOOK STORE

is quite similar to the dialect in Osaka, yet morenarrow lane. I went inside and was welcomed by the

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reserved and polite.

owner, who filled a wooden bucket with hot water,

When arriving in a new place, first impressions areoften projections, because it can be difficult to make

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tea leaves, and pebbles for me to put my feet into

AWA NARAMACHI RESTAURANT

sense of what one sees without knowing the history

Sketching is a way to teach ourselves to really lookwhile I enjoyed a hot cup of coffee—perfect after all

1 SHONAMI-CHO, NARAof the area.

and investigate our surroundings, but it is also

the walking I had been doing!

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OKUTA ODANGO SHOP

invaluable as an icebreaker when visiting new
At first glance, Nara appears to share a lot ofplaces. I came across two men setting up a wooden

Naramachi, a unique town of its own inside thearchitectural similarities with Kyoto. The narrow

mortar outside their rice-cake store, where theyancient capital of Nara City, is fascinating androads run in a grid across the city, and a lot of thestarted to use a large wooden mallet to pound themulti-layered despite its smaller size, and strollingGANGO-JI SHRINE

old merchant quarters and shrines have been

rice at a ferocious rate. As I sat and sketched them,around on foot is the ideal way to truly appreciate

11 CHUIN-CHO, NARA

beautifully preserved.

an elderly lady who had stopped to watch theits unique atmosphere.

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NARA PARKNARAMACHI KOUBOU WORKSHOP

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KANAKANA

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13 KUNODO-CHO, NARA

SARUSAWA
POND

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NAOT NARA SHOE SHOP

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8-1 SHIBATSUKINUKE-CHO, NARA
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SHINJUAN CAFÉ

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22 NISHINOSHINYA-CHO, NARA
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YOSHIDAKAYA SOUVENIRS

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1 SHIBANOSHINYA-CHO, NARA
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YUYUKOUBOU JAPANESE BRUSH SHOP

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29 BISHAMON-CHO, NARA
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IMANISHI SEIBE SHOTEN SAKÉ SHOP

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24-1 FUKUCHIIN-CHO, NARA
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KAURI POTTERYKITAMURO-CHO

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1 NARUKAWA-CHO, NARA
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GORYO JINJA SHRINE

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24 YAKUSHIDO-CHO, NARA

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KONDOU TOFU
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44 NISHINOSHINYA-CHO, NARA

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ARUKAIKKU SWEETS SHOP

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44-1 FUKUCHIIN-CHO, NARA

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CHANOYU CAFÉ
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20-3 GANGOJI-CHO, NARA
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NARAMACHI KOSHINO IE TRADITIONAL HOUSE
44 GANGOJI-CHO, NARA

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“NARA PEOPLE TRULYVALUE SERENITY”
Chiyomi strives to encourage more awarenessand active use of the Nara-fude by organizing
workshops, especially for people who are interested

ARTISANS OF NARA
Chiyomi Tanaka, Nara-fude craftswoman,talks about how fate brought her fromhousewife to artisan, and the importance ofpreserving Nara’s unique serenity.

in experiencing shodo (calligraphy). One of Chiyomi’s

Within the city her favorite spot is the fifty-two steps

Brush making originally appeared during thehappiest moments is when someone purchases

leading to Kofuku-ji where she can relax during work

Heian Period under the school of Sakanai Kiyokawa

a brush that she originally thought would not be

breaks, and she feels a sense of accomplishment after

from Nara where the production of sumi black ink

popular, further motivating her to create original

walking up the steps. Her second favorite is alongflourished. The craft was further developed by thebrushes using various materials.

the Akishino river to Heijokyo. “Compared to Kyoto
or Osaka”, she tells us, “the city is rather slow-paced

monk Kukai, and in 1977, Nara-fude, the traditionof brush making in Nara was designated as a

As for Nara itself, she is positive about the increase

and calm. You can tell that Nara people truly value

Traditional Art Craft.

in foreign tourism, but doesn’t want the area toserenity. I’d like Nara to remain this way”.

change. The city doesn’t have high buildings, and

CRAFT STUDIOS

Once an essential part of any stationary set, fude

Born and raised in Nara, Chiyomi Tanaka was a

has a quiet, peaceful, and traditional atmosphere.

calligraphy brushes are now less a part of everyday

housewife when she applied for a government

Many of the tourists who visit her shop are actuallylife and more recognized for the artistic pursuit ofprogramme that funded and trained new craftsmen

painters, as her brushes can create lines that normal

NARA-FUDE TANAKA

traditional writing.

in brush making. Never having been involved in craft

paintbrushes cannot. In fact, even Chiyomi herself

6 KUNODO-CHO, NARA

making throughout her entire life, suddenly Chiyomi

doesn’t do calligraphy, as her mentor advised her that

felt she had found her calling, and was eventually

if she does she will only make brushes for her own

IKEDA GANKOUDO

producing fude from animal hair, there’s a renewedcertified as the first female Nara-fude Japanese

tastes at the expense of her customers.

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sense of purpose to preserve this craftwork.

Traditional Craftsman.

Now with only twenty to thirty craftsmen left

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NARAMACHI NAKANICHI YOSABURO
Tadashi Ikeda, one of the last Nara Uchiwa
craftsmen, shares his thoughts about the
local craft revival and what makes Nara a
special place to visit.

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A POPULAR CONFECTIONARY MAKER SINCE 1913, AND KNOWN FOR THEIR INNOVA-JAPANESE RESTAURANTS DISPLAY REALISTIC SAMPLE MEALS TO ENTICE CUSTOM-

TIVE SWEETS MAKING USE OF TRADITIONAL NARA MOTIFS AND TECHNIQUES.

ERS. THIS SHOP SELLS THESE HANDMADE WORKS THAT YOU CAN MAKE AS WELL.

23 WAKIDO-CHO, NARA

E YUME CUBE 12 MOCHIIDONO-CHO, NARA

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Paintings and woodblock prints depicting
beautiful geisha holding uchiwa (Japanese fans)

Like much of his generation, Tadashi is much morego back centuries, and the uchiwa created by Nara

open to tourists from abroad, and eager to share

craftsmen are known specifically for embodying

his craft with them. Still, he recognises that it’s aboth beauty and practicality. Typically with fans you

challenge to gain recognition with overseas people

get only one of these two elements, but Nara uchiwa

about the Nara area. In his opinion, if they focus

evolved from pure functionality to incorporate

too much on tourism, such as changing street signs

elaborate design and details, and became its own

to English, they will become the ‘second Kyoto’ andTAMURA SEIHOUEN CHAHO

form of the craft.

lose the ambiance that makes Nara special.

THE ELEVATION AND CLIMATE OF THE YAMATO HIGHLIGHT MAKES THE AREA IDEALSET IN A TRADITIONAL JAPANESE SETTING, THE MUSEUM GIVES VISITORS A CHANCEFOR GROWING HIGH-QUALITY TEA, WHICH THEY HAVE DONE SINCE 1200.

TO TOUCH, HANDLE, AND PLAY WITH MECHANICAL TOYS OF YEARS GONE BY,

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NARAMACHI MECHANICAL TOY MUSEUM

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We met with sixth generation Nara uchiwa

Still, with Nara being less touched by tourism so far,

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craftsman Tadashi Ikeda who, at only twenty-five

there are beautiful and unique locations all over theT/ 0742-22-2833

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years old, is part of a local revival of craftsmanshipPrefecture. During the spring, Tadashi recommends

seeking to preserve these methods. In fact, there

the sakura along the Sahogawa River, and driving

are only two Nara uchiwa craftsmen left in Japan,

up Mount Wakakusa for beautiful nighttime views

and the other happens to be Tadashi’s mother. Theirof the city.

have the attitude that creating something beautiful

MIYAKE CAFÉ-FORMER KOUNOIKE TEI OMOTEYA 05

AKEMITORI

in itself will attract customers, so there’s no need

HOUSED IN THE FORMER RESIDENCE OF A WEALTHY MERCHANT IN THE EDO PERIOD,

WITH PATTERNS CREATED FROM WASHI PAPER AND USING TWO-SIDED DEEP-DYING

to promote their work. Being young, Tadashi is

THIS ANCIENT BUILDING INCLUDES A SWEET SHOP, CAFÉ, GALLERY AND GARDENS.

PROCESSES, THIS SHOP SELLS JAPANESE COTTON TEXTILES WITH NARA. MOTIFS .

taking the opposite approach. He’s doing events

1 CHOME-5-1 TORIMI-CHO, NARA

1F NAGAYA 1 NARAMACHI HASHIMOTO-CHO, NARA

and workshops, and spreading his family’s methods

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shop, Ikeda Gankoudo, opened over 150 years ago
and uses dyed washi paper, which is then hand-cut
with intricate designs.
Many craftsmen in Japan can be quite stubborn, andto others to show what real, not mass-produced
uchiwa are supposed to be.

These locations and more, are available in the official NARA Experience Guide iPad application.

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@NAVITIMEJAPANTAG YOUR PHOTOS TO APPEAR ON OUR CHANNEL#IKITAIJAPAN@SUPARUJ@RRRREI@FUKU294 _@ RRRREI@MR _ EBISU@ MR _ EBISU@ MR _ EBISU@NAOMASA _ FUJII@ATSUTSUII@ RRRREI@FUKU294 _@JORDYMEOWPLACES TO GO

NEW BEGINNINGS

YOYOGI PARKHENGTEE LIM

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2-1 YOYOGIKAMIZONO-CHO, SHIBUYA, TOKYOAs the weather warms with the coming ofspring, Japan suddenly becomes a canvas ofclear blue skies painted with cherry blossoms.

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HAKONE SENGOKUHARA

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SENGOKUHARA, ASHIGARASHIMO, KANAGAWA

The cherry blossom is at the heart of spring in

INOKASHIRA PARKJapan. It’s beautiful to witness firsthand; the streets

1-18-31 GOTENYAMA, MUSASHINO, TOKYOand parks explode into pink clouds, and a gentle

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rain of petals creates new pathways over the old.
It’s about new perspectives and a collective, sharedsense of awe.
Spring is a time for endings and beginnings. It’s
when the school year ends and starts; when highschoolers gleefully enter the universities, and young
graduates first join the workforce. Locals makeit a chance to celebrate life and the beauty of its
transience—where the weeklong, graceful bloomof the cherry blossom becomes a noted symbol fortransitory existence.
In Tokyo people gather under the trees at Yoyogi
Park near the busy heart of Harajuku, or the quieter
Inokashira Park in Kichijoji, but all over the country,
from mountain hamlets to urban centers, there isrenewed activity.
We celebrate the arrival of warmer weather withrevelry and drinks. Perhaps a few too many, but
who’s counting?
Families get together to celebrate in Ueno Park,
couples make trips to Hakone’s mountains and hot
spring baths, and solo photographers wander thelengths of the Meguro River.
It’s hard not to feel alive amongst the anticipated

The contagious energy tends to give me a travel bug,vibrancy, color and energy. With winter coats backand I start making plans and planning trips aroundin the wardrobe, brighter fashion fills the streets.

the country, coming out of winter hibernation with

There’s a lightness to it all; an excitement anda sudden surge of energy, powered by sunny days

enthusiasm, and a spring in people’s steps.

and cloudless skies.
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I love the hope that lies quietly at the heart ofI walk and daydream about new places to go, newspring, hiding huge promises of fresh starts andthings to see, and new people to meet.

brand new experiences.
Spring is an evolving canvas, first painted in whites
It’s also the time when I make plans to visit theand pinks that soon turns multicolored with

Tokyo Museum of Contemporary Art, the Nezu

koinobori streamers, before the deep greens ofMuseum, and other places I tend to put off during

summer soon arrive.

the colder months. The season also brings out
my more adventurous spirit, pushing me to
Kawaguchiko to see Mount Fuji, or hiking to the top

MOUNT FUJI

of Mount Takao.

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KITAYAMA, FUJINOMIYA, SHIZUOKA
I like to think about these possibilities as the cherry
blossoms begin to fade. I walk streets filled with

KAWAGOE

colorful koinobori carp streamers that celebrate

KAWAGOE, SAITAMA

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Children’s Day in early May. Sometimes, it’s slightly
outside of the city in remote places like Kawagoe,

TOKYO TOWER

where the streamers swing on strings between

4-2-8 SHIBA KOEN, MINATO, TOKYObuildings, or centrally at Tokyo Tower where theyT/ 03-3433-5111

create a beautiful rainbow of colorful kites at thebase of the iconic structure.

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OFF TO WORK

looking for the best bargains at a shin seikatsu ouen
sale, literally meaning a sale to “assist the start ofyour new life”.

SAID KARLSSON

Spring doesn’t just mark the time for saké
sessions under the cherry blossoms. For
hundreds of thousands of young adults
entering the workforce, spring also marks
the first steps in their professional careers.

It’s also the busiest time of year for real estateagents, as individuals and families alike move bothin and out of apartments and homes, while taking
advantage of shopping bargains for everything fromOFF TO SCHOOL

Unlike much of the Western world, Japanese school
children still independently walk and take trains toschool, even from a very young age. With droves ofAs recent graduates move on to their work
life, young kids are also filled with theanticipation of change, trying out their new
backpacks and uniforms, and getting readyto head to school for the first time.

excited children heading home from school together,
don’t be surprised if you see kids as young as six orseven dressed in school uniforms and riding the
subway alone.
As Japan is relatively a very safe country, most

televisions to rice cookers.
At the end of the academic year, early March means

parents don’t hesitate to let their children travel theWith graduations in early March, and April 1st

After the relative ease of Japanese university life,

ubiquitous graduation ceremonies for all levels, withworld’s most complex public transportation system

marking the beginning of the fiscal year, newmany new workers will soon enter regimented

a transition to a new grade or school within a few

all by themselves.

recruits all over the country are starting their newcompany cultures, work styles, and hierarchies thatweeks. The spring timing is no coincidence of course,

jobs at the exact same time. Young workers wearing

are a natural continuation of similar structures inand nearly every family photo album includes

new suits and sparkling shoes can be seen on

the educational system, but even this traditional

images of smiling kids in fresh school uniforms

their way to company training and initiations, andorganisational culture is slowly changing over time.

posing under cherry blossom trees on the first day ofthe school year.

during the evenings can be found in shopping areas
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RANDOSERU,A RITE OF PASSAGE

Just before and after school hours you’resure to notice schoolchildren carrying
classically-styled randoseru backpacks, anaccessory that has become a tradition.

some shopping of their own, but the bags don’tcome cheap! Handmade randoseru can easily cost
between $500 to $700, which is not a small amountto spend on a six year old. Even so, as randoseru
are sturdy and durable, they are expected to last for

Randoseru? It’s a bit of a strange name, but there’s

many years.

a strong history that comes with it. Beaming inassorted hues of bright red, blue, pink, green,

Tsuchiya-Kaban Seizousho, based in Adachi Ward

black and more, these leatherette backpacks arein Tokyo, is still making handmade randoseru after

significantly lighter than they appear, and are thefifty years, and have even opened up their factory

most identifiable mark on any child rushing to andspace for visitors to see the process. With schoolfrom elementary school.

bags made of over 100 parts and more than 300
different steps, the staff see this craftsmanship and

The word randoseru was derived from the Dutch

attention to detail as a team effort. An effort that,ransel backpacks used by children in European

once produced, is carried by a young child throughschools, and the Imperial Army of Japan adopted

the beginning years of their education.

this style of backpack as part of the military uniform
after the end of the Meiji Period. Today’s school
uniforms are strongly influenced by this trend as
well, such as the black collared uniforms worn bymost junior high school boys, which are adaptationsof the Prussian Army’s military uniforms.
So, what could children stock inside this leather
school bag? For most it means schoolbooks,
notebooks, a pencil case, watercolor set, perhaps
even the uwabaki shoes for wearing inside theschool. Kids can also accessorise by hanging itemson the sides: kinchaku (small pouches for theirlunch mats), taiiku-gi uniforms for exercise classes(usually a set of shorts, shirt, cap, sports shoes andthe bag to carry them), and a te-sage handkerchief
pouch featuring Pokemon, Hello Kitty, Doraemonor one of an infinite number of characters Japanese

VISIT THE SHOP

children love. Still, the standard randoseru’s design
remains simple and free of trivialities.

TSUCHIYA-KABAN SEIZOUSHO & WORKSHOPRegarded as the symbol of traditional school

7-15-5 NISHIARAI, ADACHI, TOKYO

life in Japan, the black randoseru is traditionally

T/ 03-5647-5124

01

carried by boys, and the red color by girls. However,recently this iconic school bag has created its own

TSUCHIYA-KABAN SEIZOUSHO NAKAMEGURO SHOP 02

fashion with shops offering new colors and designs,

3-19-8 AOBADAI, MEGURO, TOKYOand even adult versions for travel or day-to-day use.

T/ 03-3463-8871

Due to its distinctive design, tourists are also doing
29

SMALL TOKYO:GAKUGEI DAIGAKU

If chicken is on your mind, Aburiyahaku is theperfect tiny spot, just fitting fourteen people who,
like it or not, will get cozy and tight with eachother. This is as local as it gets, and surrendering
any pretentiousness at the door and embracing the

ULISSE PITTON

adventurous spirit is a must. The chef has the aura of

As I walk through Tokyo’s concrete jungle,
tall skyscrapers cast a shadow over my path,until I finally reach the residential town of
Gakugei Daigaku for some food exploration.

a modern ronin—beard and long hair hidden undera Jack Sparrow-esque bandana, wielding skewers as
his swords.
As the 80’s Japanese pop music dips me more into

The sun shines over this placid local neighborhood,this local treasure box, I order more unusual selectjust four stops from Shibuya station along the Toyoko

dishes, many of which I don’t even recognize: grilledline, which is filled with many small but exotic

chicken liver, gizzards, grilled beef and chickeneateries and quaint shops selling anything from usedmeatballs. Think chicken is a boring meat? Not

records to tea.

here, with healthy portions, just the right amountof spices, and I am converted. Then, I have theMy first stop in this journey of food enlightenment

yaki takenoko (grilled bamboo sprouts), a pleasantis Susuru, named afer the sound you should makesurprise because hidden in its taste are hints ofwhen slurping ramen, and the home of a rich andanother vegetable born thousands of miles away,

perfectly balanced specialty of spicy tantanmen

which the chef asks all newcomers to guess.

tsukemen. To the untrained eye, tsukemen is merely
ramen noodles sans soup, but breaking this bondThough not for the faint-hearted, reba sashi raw

means dipping the noodles into the thick, undiluted

chicken liver, served fresh from the farm is a delicacy

broth, and charging it with new flavors and anthat lingers in the mouth and challenges myexplosion of fragrances of chili, sesame, pepper, pork

preconceived notions of liver as unappealing.

and spices.
My journey ends for now, yet I only scratched theHead southwest to Sushiya no Yoshikan, a traditionalsurface of this lovely town that surely hides moresushi restaurant that also includes grilled fish

mysteries and surprises in its multiple alleys.

selections, with two counters and a kitchen filledwith chefs ready to satisfy your curiosity.
Rather than order off the menu, my password to a

SUSURU

great meal is the word “o-makase”, giving the chef

2-15-14 TAKABAN, MEGURO, TOKYO

freedom to serve what is freshest from the market.

T/ 03-3791-2336

01

While you never know what will be included (youcan set a budget if you like), the adventure is worth

SUSHIYA NO YOSHIKAN

it. Among my grilled highlights are the pacific cod,

3-16-19 TAKABAN, MEGURO, TOKYO

gratin oyster, and skewers of tuna belly. The sushi is

T/ 050-5869-4665

02

equally on par in terms of quality with sea urchin,

ABURIYAHAKU

sardine, and eel to continue my feast.

2-20-19 TAKABAN, MEGURO, TOKYO
T/ 03-3794-4573

30

31

03

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

TAKING TAXISMONEY TIPSGETTING CONNECTEDWith the most efficient, yet easily mostcomplex public transport in the world, ittakes a lifetime to master Japan’s trainsystem. Still, there are a few things to makeyour time here much easier on the rails.

Depending on how far you’re going, taking ataxi may be one of the more expensive things
you do during your trip, but there are a few
ways to make the most of them.

It’s hard to get by on just one form of money
during your time in Japan. In fact, you will
most likely be dealing with three of themrather often.

Even though Japan is a highly connected
country, getting online as a visitor can be
frustrating. Even just for basic mappingand information searches, having a reliable
connection can be a challenge.

01

Have the address for your destination ready,01

While credit cards are more accepted, Japan is
While it’s nice to think about being offline

and in Japanese if possible. Cities here are dense

still very much a cash-based country, so you’ll needcompanies all working together, but that also

and drivers most likely won’t know your location

to have a decent amount on you for walking around.

during a holiday, it’s hard to go without featuresmeans all-day passes for one rail system won’t work

unless it’s a common point of interest.

The easiest place to find these are at 7-Eleven

like mapping and transit search. We recommend

convenience stores, which provide international

renting a pocket wi-fi during your trip, especially

ATM service for zero fees. We also have an ATM

if you want to share the connection with someone

search feature in our smartphone app.

else. They’re fast, lightweight, and allow you to use

01

Japan’s railways are a mix of private and public

on another one, so be sure of your plans in advance.
02
02

Not every taxi takes credit cards, though it’smore common these days. Look for a sticker on the

Rather than buy passes or individual tickets

per trip, we recommend to get a Pasmo, Suica, or

window with the card you want to use, and if you

other similar e-money card. Your unused cash isaren’t sure just ask the driver in advance.

any kind of device that supports wi-fi.
02

Even when you use a credit card, there’s no
If you’re set on using a SIM card for your phoneguarantee that smaller shops will accept your02

No need to ever touch the door! Your driver will

particular brand. Best to make sure when you firstor tablet, you can now find data SIMs in electronics

refundable, and makes moving around frictionless.
03

01

Getting on and off trains can be quite simple, as

always open and close it himself, mostly to prevent

arrive if it’s absolutely necessary, or you’ll soon be

stores, convenience stores, and even vending

most people politely line up and wait their turn. Be

you from opening it onto an unfortunate cyclist or

making a quick run to the ATM.

machines. While they don’t provide you a phoneaware of areas for elderly and pregnant passengers,

nearby car.

03

and if you aren’t sure just follow the crowd.
Knowing which trains to take and when is thehardest part of traveling here. Of course we suggest

Our favorite form of money is e-money cards

Taxis can be quite expensive if you’re taking alike Suica and Pasmo, which also double as payment

03

long trip. Our app provides a simple taxi fare searchsystems for riding public transportation. Not only

want to save on mobile data costs. Some companies

to give you the best estimate for your journey.

04
04

number, you’ll be online in a snap.
03

It can be good to find wi-fi spots when you

that, but you can make purchases directly fromlike Docomo provide countrywide wi-fi on public

our smartphone app, which has the most up-to-datevending machines and convenience stores without

networks, but more locations are offering it as well.

schedules and easy navigation in Japan.

getting a lot of loose change in return.

It’s best not to bank on having wi-fi or you’ll get
frustrated when you can’t find it when you need it.

Read more on www.navitimejapan.com/traveling32

33

Acknowledgements

About

Get in touch

EDITOR | Michael Keferl

NAVITIME for Japan Travel is the most

GENERAL

ASSOCIATE EDITOR | Alma Reyes

downloaded smartphone app for travellers

contact@navitimejapan.com

PRODUCER| Yoko Kitakoga

visiting Japan, available in English,
Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese,

ARE YOU A CREATOR?

ART DIRECTION | Mimmo Cangiano Belcuore

and Korean languages.

We’re always excited to collaborate

PHOTO EDITOR | Don Kennedy

Featuring Japan’s most popular train routephotographic, and video content. If you

ILLUSTRATOR | Adrian Hogan

search functionality, the app also includes

are interested in documenting your trip or

multimodal route search, navigation, real-

sharing your experiences of Japan you can

WRITERS

time train timetables, and offline search forfind more information at the link below:

Hengtee Lim

free Wi-Fi spots.

navitimejapan.com/creatorswith both visitors and locals for written,

Jordy Meow
Tomomi Yokotani
Adrian Hogan
Said Karlsson
Ulisse Pitton

PHOTOGRAPHERS
Benjamin Beechey
Andrew Pothecary
Eiji Murakami
Jordy Meow
Tomomi Yokotani
Don Kennedy

Shinjuku

PRINTER株式会社 誠文堂 (Seibundo)
Published March 2016

Publisher

発行人

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

NAVITIME JAPAN Co., Ltd.

株式会社ナビタイムジャパン

reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,

Minami Aoyama Tokyo Bldg.

〒107-0062

electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or any storage

3-8-38 Minami Aoyama Minato-ku

東京都港区南青山三丁目8-38

and retrieval system, without permission in writing from

Tokyo 107-0062 Japan

南青山東急ビルthe publisher.

Shibuyanavitimejapan.com

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shirakawa

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Funabori

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Toei Shinjuku Line
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Sumiyoshi

Kikukawa

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KameidoKameido Suijin

Ryogoku
From

Tobu
KameidoLine

Higashi-ojima

Omurai

Higashi-Azuma

Oshiage(SKYTREE)

Morishita

HamachoHigashi-nihombashi

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Keisei
Oshiage Line

HikifuneTokyo Skytree

Minami-Senju

Asakusabashi Ryogoku

ExploreYahiroHigashi
Mukojima

Honjoazumabashi

ramae

Yotsugi

Kanegafuchi

Asakusa

Keisei-Ko

Keisei-TateishiHorikiri

Asakusa

Keisei-Takasago

Ohanajaya

Keisei-Sekiya

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