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IN THIS ISSUESUMMER NOTES FROM THE EDITOR 2-3
IT'S MATSURI SEASON 4-5
WELCOME TO KAMAKURA 6-7
LOCAL HIGHLIGHTS 8-9
8 HOURS IN KAMAKURA 10-11
KAMAKURA: THE RISE OF THE EAST 12-15
HOW TO MOUNT FUJI 18-19
THE JAPANESE BASEBALL EXPERIENCE 20-21
GET READY FOR FIREWORKS 24-25
ACTUAL COOL JAPAN 26-27
TRAVEL TIPS 28-29
REAL LANGUAGE SKILLS 30-31
navitimejapan.com

SUMMER NOTESFROM THE EDITORNAVITIME FOR JAPAN TRAVEL TEAM

From festivals to fireworks, and surfing tosummiting, summer in Japan is hot, sticky,
and far too short.

season, and the following beach season lasts a mere

Regardless, your average person stays right where

NAVITIME for Japan Travel is a mobile app thatsix weeks for most, despite perfect weather wellthey are. Japanese cities already have plenty goinghelps you plan how to get around Japan, and this

into September. The beach huts and young crowds

on all summer, with local festivals happening

print edition is still evolving along with our service.

disappear in mid-August as quickly as they appeared

somewhere every weekend, and more than enoughThough we're already the most popular navigationin July.

to do just a train ride away. Nearly one million people

tool for travel in Japan, we want to do more andattend the Sumidagawa fireworks every year, and thehelp our users find more off-road destinations andAt the same time, the limited Mount Fuji climbing

packed crowds seem to be more of an attraction thanexperiences.

season brings crowds 3,776 meters above sea level toa deterrence.

catch a brilliant sunrise before the snow returns andmakes the peak too dangerous to attempt.

Japan is well-equipped with blasting cold (and dry)indoor air, so you'll always find a refuge somewhere.

Summer in Japan is intense, but it's far from endless.

Even so, as with anywhere in the world, summer
without the outdoors is no summer at all.

The best advice we can give for the summer is to getWith all of these things going on, choosing the rightyourself out of the city and explore the countryside.

location to feature in this issue was a challenge, but

That’s generally our advice for most seasons anyway,

Kamakura popped right out for us. With just thebut summer in particular is the perfect time to escaperight combination of tradition, nature, and beach

the hot concrete and find yourself somewhere new.

City dwellers of means tend to prefer higher

life, Kamakura is a perfect day trip within easy reachelevations and northern latitudes to escape fromof Tokyo. It’s no wonder that so much of Tokyo’s

Tackling summertime recommendations isn’t an

the humidity, taking refuge in places like Karuizawa

creative class is willing to make the daily commute ineasy undertaking. There are far too many options to(Nagano) and Hokkaido. The more adventurous findexchange for a completely different lifestyle on theirchoose from, and the summer season is also quite

themselves in the mountains, swimming or rafting indays off. Plus, with a deep and revolutionary history,

short. June is already unpredictable due to the rainy

cool streams, and hiking through rural villages.

the city on the sea is full of stories.

4

5

01

IT’S MATSURI SEASON
Summer in Japan is synonymous with traditional festivals
celebrated across the country. Here are three of the best.

02

03

Aomori Nebuta Matsuri (Aomori City)

feudal lord Hachisuka Iemasa offered sake to theGet your cameras ready for this spectacular lanterntownspeople, who ended up getting drunk andfestival in northern Japan, centering on overdancing in the streets. As the song itself goes, “It’s atwenty massive lantern floats based on kabuki orfool who dances and a fool who watches! If both are

mythical stories. Constructed throughout the year

fools, you might as well have fun dancing!”, so don’t

by local craftsmen, the colorful floats of painted

hesitate to join the massive street dance party from
6pm onwards.

As the temperatures and humidity rise in Japan, theTenjin Matsuri (Osaka)

washi and hundreds of lights are up to five meters

energy, spectacle, and entertainment come together

Dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the deified

tall and nine meters wide. Haneto dancers dressedin a long lineup of matsuri that attract frompatron of learning and art, the Tenjin Matsuri inin vibrant costumes push the floats along while

hundreds to hundreds of thousands of participants

Osaka is one of the top three festivals in Japan,

jumping, dancing, and shouting “Rassera! Rassera!”

every year. While festivals of all sizes happen

and takes place on both land and water. The mainaround the city. Anyone can join in the procession,

year-round across Japan, especially with harvest-

celebrations kick off on the second day withbut you'll need to rent haneto costumes for about

centric festivals in the autumn, the most local anddrummers and dancers leading a procession of¥4,000. On the final night, the floats are loaded intocelebratory events take place in the summertime

portable shrines from Tenmangu shrine throughboats and ferried around Aomori Bay as a fireworks

TENJIN MATSURI

when it's more about having fun for the sake of it,

the streets of Osaka, where they are then loaded

display caps off this fiery festival.

2-1-8 TENJINBASHI, KITA-KU, OSAKA

dancing, drinking, and playing carnival games.

onto a hundred illuminated boats that parade up

JULY 24~25

and down the Okawa river. Onlookers have plenty

Awa-Odori (Tokushima City)

Each matsuri has its own theme and charm, andof food and drink to choose from, and crowd the

The Awa-Odori is celebrated to mark the Obon

AOMORI NEBUTA MATSURI

since there's never an entry fee they attract quite ariverbanks for a two-hour fireworks display. Having

period and welcome ancestral spirits back to thisYASUKATA, AOMORI-SHI, AOMORI

crowd. Just remember to come with a big appetite!

hopefully entertained the deity, the parade returns

world. Participants of all ages put on yukata and

AUGUST 2~7

Rows of street food stalls with local and traditional

him to his home at Tenmangu to wait another year.

straw hats to dance to the traditional Tokushima

fare make it possible to sample a bit of everythingsong, “Awa Yoshikono”, accompanied by traditional

AWA-ODORI

without breaking the bank, and locals are always

instruments. This dance dates back to 1587 when

TOKUSHIMA-SHI, TOKUSHIMA

happy to have visitors join in the festivities.

the Tokushima castle was newly built and the

AUGUST 12~15

6

01

7

02

03

WELCOME TO KAMAKURA

It's still possible to take ancient backcountry trails
between temples and wander down to the beach to
enjoy the water, or catch a magnificent view of the

For a tranquil city on the beach, Kamakura was once the centerof Japan's political sea change, and the origin of over 600 yearsof feudal society and turmoil. Now, centuries past, the history,geography, and cultural artifacts still remain, right on the edgeof the world's largest metropolis.

silhouette of Mount Fuji as the sun sets behind it.
Although the entire city isn't exactly walkable, theEnoden electric railway founded in 1900 can takeyou around the area easily and maintains its classic
retro charm.

Originally founded as the very first samurai capitalin 1185, Kamakura was the world's fourth largest
city in 1250, before suffering a rapid decline when
overthrown in 1333. Despite so much turmoil nearly
700 years ago the area is still full of remnantsof its past, including still-standing temples andmonuments, and historical sites that have escaped
the development that transformed most cities in
the region.

For history buffs, a visit to the centuries-old
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine can give a crashcourse on the first shogunate government ofJapan, which was responsible for the city's initial
growth (and eventual downfall). A popular andbustling street, Komachi-dori shouldn’t be skipped
Now, when visiting this coastal town, an abundance

if you’re interested in local crafts like the famousof nature, history and new experiences awaits

carved Kamakura lacquerware, or to catch a meal.

travelers. Though just an hour from the center of

Kamakura isn't known for its food culture, but

Tokyo, the atmosphere of small town living will

you're never too far from a quick curry, soba, or

instantly transport you to a time when Japanesesnack that you can eat on the go.

cities had a more relaxed pace, without tallthe once impassable mountains which protected

This seaside city, teeming with a multitude of scenic

it from invasion for centuries, Kamakura’s idyllicand historic attractions, is easy to navigate in a day

The beauty of Kamakura is that there is something

geography combined with impressive historicalor two with a combination of trains, hikes, leisurely

for everyone and in every season – hiking,landmarks makes it an ideal travel destination forwalks, and perhaps even a bike rental if you want tosurfing, temple-hopping, quality local food, andthose seeking respite from the noise and tourist

cover more ground.

shopping are all within reach in a setting that's

traps of the urban areas of the Kanto region.

buildings and flashy neon lights.

not quite rural and not quite a city. Set between
89LOCAL HIGHLIGHTS

ENOSHIMA

03

1-9 ENOSHIMA, FUJISAWA-SHI, KANAGAWA
This small island is 25 minutes

To get the best insights into the city, for this issue we worked
with Kamakura-based Huber, a service that matches local guides
with visitors to Kamakura and other areas.

away from Kamakura. At one time
people could cross on foot during
low tide, and the island's shrine
has been a place of worship forover 800 years. With a panoramicview of the sea, it's the perfect

ATSUSHISAKI

HOTARU

spot to relax after a long day
wandering around Kamakura.

I love introducing my local area to

I’m a university student studying

I’m a Chinese girl and have been

visitors, and also having my friends

sociology. I love food, so I always

living in Japan for five years. I cando the same for me when I visit

take visitors to interesting andspeak three languages and like

ENGAKU-JI

their hometowns. This is the way I

delicious local restaurants they

to take visitors to trendy areas in

409 YAMANOUCHI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

travel, so each friend I have means

wouldn’t know about otherwise.

Tokyo, as well as harder to findT/ 0467 22 0478

places too!

This imposing temple captures

one more unique trip with someone!

04

the essence of Kamakura. Built
over 700 years ago, it embodies

TEN-EN HIKING COURSE

01

the samurai aesthetic with the

8 YAMANOUCHI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

strength and natural beauty ofT/ 0467 22 0981

unlacquered wood. You may evenThis hiking route from Kencho-ji

witness a temple choir in prayer

in to Zuisen-ji takes about 30-45

in the midst of this peacefulminutes across mountain ridges,

atmosphere.

a peaceful route known only to
05

locals. There are many hiking

HOKOKU-JI

trails like this one in Kamakura,

2-7-4 JOMYO-JI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

and having a guide helps you get

T/ 0467 22 0762

away from the crowds and up to

Sipping tea amongst

stunning ocean views.

quintessential Japanese gardens
is a tradition of spiritual healing,

ZENIARAI BENTEN

02

relaxation, and introspection.

2-25-16 SASUKE, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

Set on a secluded hillside,

T/ 0467 25 1081

at Hokoku-ji you can enjoy

Up a valley path and throughtraditional tea surrounded by an

the mouth of a cave is Zeniarai

impressively curated bamboo

Benten. It’s said that if you wash

forest.

money in the water that springs
from these rocks, more will comeIn collaboration withto you after you spend it. Most
local shops happily accept yourwet cash as payment, knowing its

huber-japan.com

HUBER OFFERS LOCAL "TOMODACHI GUIDES", PROVIDING FREE TRAVELCONSULTATIONS FOR PEOPLE PLANNING THEIR TRIPS TO JAPAN, AS WELL
AS GUIDED TOURS TO MAKE YOUR TRIP MORE LOCAL AND MEMORABLE.

blessed origin.
1011

8 HOURS IN KAMAKURAJENIE GABRIEL

Once the first samurai capital of Japan, Kamakura is now an idyllic
destination mixing history, nature, and a feel of the small town life, justa short distance from the lights of Tokyo.

Only travel can make me get up at 7:30AM on my01

day-off to join the madness of the Tokyo rush hour.

KOMACHI-DORI
1-5-6 KOMACHI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

An hour away in Kamakura, I trailed behind eager
tourists and students on their way to Komachi-dori,

02

TSURUGAOKA HACHIMAN-GU SHRINE

breezing past cafés, food stalls, and craft shops.

2-1-31 YUKINOSHITA, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

Wandering aimlessly took me to Tsurugaoka

T/ 0467 22 0315

Hachiman-gu Shrine, a symbol of the old capital,
before taking the Daibutsu hiking trail from Jochi-ji,

03

JOCHI-JI

a rustic Zen temple amidst a lush forest. Following1402 YAMANOUCHI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

the signs, I reached the Kotoku-in temple with theT/ 0467 22 3943

imposing Great Buddha (Daibutsu).
04

KOTOKU-IN (GREAT BUDDHA OF KAMAKURA)

After a hearty curry lunch, the next stop was Hase-

4-2-28 HASE, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

dera, with temple grounds built on a hillside andT/ 0467 22 0703

the most impressively landscaped garden I’ve seen.
It was an unexpected surprise when I entered a05

CARAWAY (CURRY RESTAURANT) キャラウェイ

dark, small cave where I found hundreds of Benten

2-12-20 KOMACHI, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

statues carved in the walls and lined up neatly on

T/ 0467 25 0927

the floor. After stepping out of the solemn Kannondo Hall with its 9- meter high gilded statue of06

HASE-DERA

Juichi-men Kannon, I was amazed by the view of the

3-11-2 HASE, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

coastline - the highlight of my day trip.

T/ 0467 22 6300

Luckily, on the way back to Hase Station, I happened

07

across a mobile café in a converted van where the

IDOBATA COFFEE
2-14-13 HASE, KAMAKURA, KANAGAWA

owner prepared rich hand-dripped coffee, givingme the perfect boost for my sunset return trip to thelights, energy, and hustle of Japan's newest capital.
12

13

with, the imperial family. There was one small

Minamoto no Yoritomo the Game Changer

problem though.

One head of the family, a samurai warlord named
Minamoto no Yoritomo subjugated other clans

Traditionally in Japan, family inheritance has always

through alliances and sheer brute force. The emperor

been passed down from father to the first born

eventually granted him the hereditary title of shōgunson. The noble families of Kyōto tried to produce

in 1192. This title essentially made him the military

as many sons as possible as infant mortality rates

dictator of Japan.

were horrific in those days. However, only the oldest
surviving son could carry on the family name andYoritomo considered the imperial court corrupt andinheritance6. So, what did they do with the otherdecided to remain in Kamakura so he could rulesurviving inheritance-less sons?

independently and let the courtiers in Kyōto playtheir games and write their poetry, practice their

KAMAKURA:
THE RISE OF THE EAST
MARKY STAR

Well, the other sons would be shipped off to the east

calligraphy, and enjoy the glamorous life of the day.

and north of Japan where they were given swaths of

But in effect, Yoritomo robbed the imperial court ofland to call their own. They were granted military

any real power. I don’t know if this was his intention

governorships and ruled in the name of the imperial

or not, but Minamoto no Yoritomo basically launchedcourt. These local strongmen were called samurai

Japan into a new age in which samurai would rulebecause they served the emperor7. They upheld

Japan for nearly 700 years and the emperor and his

the rule of law in the east by force and used theircourt were relegated to ritual and artistic endeavors.

personal armies to suppress anyone who didn’t

It also paved the way for eastern Japan to become aobey the court. This freed up the emperor and his

cultural center in its own right.

Wait. What? Isn’t This About Kamakura?

courtiers to work on poetry, painting, calligraphy,

Yes, it is. And we’ll get to Kamakura in a minute.

and studying the Chinese Classics. All the while, theThe Kamakura Period

Things weren’t always this way. Before the 1200’s, therough and tumble samurai did all the messy work of

Yoritomo developed Kamakura as his shōgunal

west of Japan was the center of sophistication andtaming the east. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

capital – the first non-imperial capital in Japanesethe east was a brutish and uncultured no man’s land.

Win-win for everyone, right?

history. He invested heavily in the tutelary deity

While the west was the arbiter of courtly elegance,

The eastern city on the sea was once groundzero for Japan's cultural divide.

eastern Japan was a collection of rustic villages inof his clan, Hachiman, the god of war, by building
Wrong.

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine (this god would

the boonies controlled by local warlords with thelater become the “patron saint” of all samurai

cultural refinement of a sword wielding baboon on

In short, while the nobles in the west concernedin Japan). The new capital was built with all thehorseback.

themselves with poetry and frivolous games, thesophistication of Kyōto. When you visit Kamakura,samurai clans in the east were becoming military

pay attention to the areas around the station andpowerhouses. Since they were descendants of

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū; this is where Yoritomo’s

noble families8, their armies and names made themcapital was! It’s laid out on a grid in compliance

The Rise of the First Samurai Capital

forces to be reckoned with in Kyōto. This may soundwith feng shui and feels a lot like central Kyōto. It’s

Kansai people3 complain about the heavy flavoring

Prior to the 12th Century, Japan was a very different

familiar to fans of Game of Thrones.

a far cry from the clustered and intentionally windyof food in east, and Kantō people4 complain aboutplace. The de facto capital of Japan had always been

the blandness of food in the west. Kantō people

in the west where the emperors and their courts

One family in particular, the Minamoto Clan,claim that Kansai people talk loudly, talk too much,

resided. Eventually, it was settled that Kyōto would

amassed great power in the Kamakura area. This

Kamakura’s Legacy

act waaaay too familiar too quickly, and speak abe the permanent imperial capital. It was city based

territory was far from Kyōto so they could operate

Japan would be ruled by eastern samurai fromboorish, unsophisticated dialect5. Conversely, Kansai

on classical Chinese urban planning and feng shui

independently of the court. They were also located1192-1868. Some of Kyōto’s most famous attractions,people say Tōkyōites are cold, distant, and speak

which made it the most elegant and refined city in allon the sea and surrounded by mountains which

Ginkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion) and Kinkaku-ji

effeminately.

of the Japanese islands. The court was dominated bymeant they were extremely well-defended.

(the Silver Pavilion) were built by Kantō warlords in

You may have heard of a rivalry between Ōsaka andTōkyō. Usually, this manifests itself in baseball in thecase of the Tōkyō Giants1 and the Hanshin Tigers2.

Until the 12th Century, that is.

But it comes up in a lot of other situations too.

streets of Tōkyō.

powerful clans descended from, or closely entangled
14

the form of the 2nd shōgunate, which chose to rule15

from the old western capital so it could keep an eye

Kyōto’s neighbor, Ōsaka, developed a merchanton the imperial court. This shōgunate was weak,culture. Samurai culture was steeped in respect,

though. They didn’t follow Kamakura’s example ofcultural sophistication, austerity, and shunned

rejecting western court culture. They tried to show

the crass ways of the commoners. In contrast, thethat samurai could play the court game too. Theymerchant culture was outgoing, casual, unconcerned

could, but in the end the samurai warlords of the east

with social rank, flashy, and talkative. They couldn’t

refused to be complacent. Once again, the country

even speak the dialect of the capital. Uncouth

fell into 100 years of civil war where samurai foughtbarbarians, I tells ya!

samurai and the imperial court kept writing poetry
and practicing calligraphy. Eventually, the emperor

Those two cultures are basically alive and well today

ended up living in a shack9.

and are clearly evidenced in the Kantō/Kansai rivalry.
People from the 1700’s would completely relate to theFast forward 100 years to the 1600’s. Yet anotherprejudices of Japanese people living in 2016.

eastern samurai rose to power and established a

The east-west rivalry isn’t about baseball, whose

new shōgunate near a backwater bay in the Kantō

food is better, or speaks worse; it’s about who lostarea called Edo. His name was Tokugawa Ieyasu.

something and who gained something centuries ago.

He fought and won a battle that is often considered

And yeah, it’s true. These cultural differences

a war between the east and west – also consideredintensified in the Edo Period, but they can all be

the last epic battle in samurai history. Ieyasu won a

traced back to Kamakura. Minamoto no Yoritomo

decisive victory that ushered in a new era we now

flipped the system. Boorish country warlords fromcall the Edo Period – an era often considered Japan’s

the east (literally the rejects of the Kyōto noble

Golden Age.

families) fought their way to the top of the social
ladder, rivaled and often bested the ancient capital

Ieyasu claimed descent from the Minamoto Clan10,

in arts and poetry, and then paved the way for theand he insisted on ruling from Edo11 in the east.

political and cultural supremacy of eastern Japan.

Like Minamoto no Yoritomo he wanted to keep the

Kamakura is more than a city. It’s an idea that sent

imperial court in check and wanted to operate as far

shockwaves through Japan’s culture and society thataway from Kyōto as he could, and he ensured thatare still felt today. It’s a symbol of the east copying thesamurai were kept at the top of the social hierarchy

west to look legit. It’s a symbol of the east giving theby rule of law. He also kept merchants at the bottom

finger to the west to stay legit, and the east is still theof the social hierarchy, and continued a policy that

cultural epicenter of Japan today.

severely limited social mobility.

Notes
1 - Who totally rule.

For almost 250 years, the Tokugawa Shōgunate

2 -Who totally suck. And yes, I’m totally biased.

allowed Kyōto to flourish artistically and ritually,

3 - Kansai is the region of western Japan where Kyōto and Ōsaka are located.
4 - Kantō is the region of eastern Japan where Tōkyō is located.

but excluded the vanquished western samurai clans

5 - Kyōto excluded, of course. The polite version of the Kyōto dialect is considered

and imperial court from participation in politics.

extremely elegant.
6 - Which included court rank…

This all may seem harsh, but in reality Edo flourished

7 - The term samurai (侍) literally means “servant”.

as the cultural, martial, and political capital of

8 - And sometimes of the emperors themselves!

Japan, while Kyōto flourished as a ritual and artistic

9 - I’m not joking, the Portuguese missionaries of the time described Kyōto as
a burned out ghetto.

imperial capital. But something else happened

10 - Probably a lie!

along the way. Edo, which was later renamed Tōkyō,11 - Present day Tōkyō. And yes, it’s Tōkyō and not Tokyo – but that’s a wholedeveloped a samurai culture.

other article in and of itself.

16

17

Shinkansen Guide: Prices, times, and destinations
Hokkaido Shinkansen / Tohoku Shinkansen
はやぶさ

Hayateはやて

Komachi

こまち

Yamabiko

やまびこ

Nasunoなすの

Tsubasaつばさ

1h25min￥8,2001h25min￥8,2001h25min￥8,200Koriyama

Morioka
2h15min￥14,2303h00min￥14,2302h20min￥14,2303h15min￥14,2302h45min￥11,340
Yamagata

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto新函館北斗

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto
Shin-Aomori
Hokkaido
3h20min
4h15min
Shinkansen￥16,840￥22,6903h35min￥16,840Akita
3h50min
Shinkansen￥17,800
Akita

3h45min￥12,870
ShinjoKikonai
木古内

Okutsugaru-Imabetsu
奥津軽いまべつShin-Aomori 新青森

Yamagata
Shinkansen

いわて沼宮内Tsurugi

つるぎ

Kagayaki

かがやき

Hakutaka

はくたか

Asama

あさま

1h30min￥8,2001h50min￥8,2001h50min￥8,200OishidaJoetsu Shinkansen
Toyama2h15min￥12,7302h40min￥12,730

Kanazawa
25min￥3,3302h35min￥14,1203h10min￥14,120

Tokyo

Toki

とき

Tanigawa

たにがわ

Takasaki
50min￥4,93055min￥4,930Echigo-Yuzawa
1h25min￥6,6701h25min￥6,670大石田

Niigata
2h20min￥10,570
1h20min￥6,910上越

Iiy 妙高
am
a飯

Jo
ue
ts
um
yo
uk
ou

Sanyo / Kyushu Shinkansen
3h05min￥18,8503h15min￥18,540
50min￥5,130

Tsubameつばめ

3h45min￥22,2104h10min￥21,900
1h45min￥10,450

上 om
毛 o
高 -K
原 o

J

高畠

Yonezawa

Shiroishizao

米沢

白石蔵王

崎

福島

Koriyama
郡山

Shin-Shirakawa
新白河

那須塩原

Utsunomiya
宇都宮

Oyama
小山

Omiya 大宮
Ueno 上野Tokyo 東京
Shinagawa 品川
Shin-Yokohama 新横浜

久留米

筑後船小屋

Shin-Omuta
新大牟田

Shin-Tamana
新玉名Kumamoto 熊本
Shin-Yatsushiro

新八代

Shin-Minamata
新水俣

Izumi

出水

Sendai川内

Kagoshima-Chuo 鹿児島中央

新
大
阪

京
都

阜
羽

KurumeChikugo-Funagoya

新
神
戸

岡
山

Odawara 小田原

名古屋

Atami 熱海

島
M
ika
wa
-A
nj
Nagoya
o
To 三河
yo
安
城
Ha ha
m shi
am 豊
橋
a
Ka tsu
ke
浜
松
ga
Sh wa
izu 掛川Sh oka
in
-F 静岡
uj
i新

新鳥栖

広
島

Shin-Kobe

Shin-Tosu

小倉Sh
Hakata
in
-S
hi
m
on
os
Kokura
ek
i新
Sh
下
in
関
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A
m
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ag a 厚uc
狭To hi 新Sh kuy 山口
am
in
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a徳
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Hi
岩
ga
国
sh
i-H
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広
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Sh uk i 新尾
uy
in
道
a
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ur ma
as
福
山
hi
ki
新

博
多

明
石

さくら

2h30min￥15,3102h40min￥15,000

Okayama

Sakura1h30min￥10,230
1h30min￥10,230

Aioi
相Ni
sh Him 生
i-A ejka i 姫路
sh
i西

みずほ

倉
敷

MizuhoSendai 仙台

Takahata

Nasushiobara

久
An
平
na
ka
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ru
Ho
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a安
nj
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中
as
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a熊

長
野

古川

赤湯

Ta
ka
sa
ki
高

糸魚川

Furukawa

Akayu

Fukushima

Karuizawa

黒部宇奈月温泉

Itoigawa

かみのやま温泉gen

Kurobe-Unazuki-Onsen

くりこま高原谷

Kagoshima-Chuo

山

こだま

Kumamoto

NaganoKodamaHakata5h05min￥22,9505h45min￥22,3309h00min￥22,330

軽井沢

Sa Ued
ku
a
da 上田
ira
佐

ひかり

Hiroshima
4h00min￥19,080
5h20min￥18,560
4h40min￥18,560

Shin-Osaka

のぞみ

HikariShin-Osaka
2h35min￥14,4503h00min￥14,1404h05min￥14,140

Kurikoma-Kogen

Kaminoyama-Onsen

Echigo-Yuzawa 越後湯沢

G
M
ifu
Kyoto
-H aibaashi ra 米ma岐 原Nozomi

Kyoto
2h20min￥13,9102h40min￥13,600
3h45min￥13,600

一ノ関

山形

浦佐

新高岡

Nagoya1h40min￥11,0902h00min￥10,8802h45min￥10,880

Ichinoseki

Yamagata

Urasa

Toyama 富山

水沢江刺

天童

長岡

Tokaido / Sanyo Shinkansen

Mizusawaesashi

Tendo

NagaokaKanazawa 金沢

北上

さくらんぼ東根

燕三条

ガーラ湯沢

Kitakami

Sakurambohigashine

Tsubamesanjo

GALA Yuzawa

新花巻

村山

新潟

GALA Yuzawa

Shin-Hanamaki

Murayama

Niigata

Shintakaoka

Tokyo

NinoheMorioka 盛岡

富士

Nagano八戸

Iwate-Numakunai
新庄

Tokyo

七戸十和田

Hachinohe
二戸

ShinjoHokuriku Shinkansen

Shichinohe-Towada

石Hayabusa

Sendai
1h35min￥10,8901h45min￥10,8901h40min￥10,8902h05min￥10,890

Ak
ita
秋
田
O
m
ag
Ka ari 大ku
曲nTa odaza
te
角w
Sh ako 館
izu 田
ku 沢湖
ish
i雫

Tokyo

Mishima 三島

HOW TO MOUNT FUJI
Thought about climbing Mount Fuji during
your trip? It’s not as difficult as you may
think, and from July through early September
the trails are ready for hikers of all ages totake on Japan’s highest peak.

gazing at it from a hot spring bath as you recover the

Aside from being in decent enough shape to walk

However you decide to do it, remember that while

next day.

uphill, at minimum we advise sturdy shoes, water,

going up in the dark is a fun challenge, the sun-snacks, and some level of waterproofing as thedrenched, shin-aching, monotonous return trip

You don’t even need to prepare particularly hard

weather can change quickly up there. You can eventhrough a lifeless moonscape of volcanic sand may

if you have hiking experience. Some tourists evenreserve space in the mountain huts to get a few hours

be the hardest part of your journey.

make the trip from Tokyo on a whim wearing onlyof sleep before trekking to the top for the sunrise.

jeans and sneakers with a small bag of supplies, but
the average Japanese climber is equipped to tackle
the Matterhorn. Somewhere in-between is advisable.

Say what you will about Fuji’s summertime crowds,
souvenir shops, wifi hotspots, and vending machine

Nearly everyone starts at one of the four 5th Stations

on the summit, but climbing Fuji isn’t something you

on different sides of the mountain. The Yoshida Trail

do to appreciate nature or hiking anyway. You do itis the most popular, but we like the Subashiri Trail

because it’s Mount Fuji, and tackling the summit iswhich is less crowded and still has enough stops topretty much the main thing to do with it aside fromrest and re-hydrate during the 5~8 hour climb.

SUMMIT
3,776 MT/ 090 5858 3776, T/ 090 1982 3515, T/ 090 1563 3513

KYU-GOME
9TH STATION 3,576 M

YAMAGUCHIYAOUGIYA

11

30 MIN10

HACHI-GO GO-SHAKU
8.5TH STATION 3,454 M
T/ 0555 73 8815

HON HACHI-GOME
ORIGINAL 8TH STATION 3,400 M
T/ 090 7031 3517

HACHI-GOME
8TH STATION 3,270 M
T/ 090 2770 3518

HON NANA-GOME
ORIGINAL 7TH STATION 3,140 M
T/ 090 1622 1048

NANA-GOME
7H STATION 2,930 M
T/ 090 3158 6624

30 MIN

30 MINGORAIKOKANHON ROKU-GOME
ORIGINAL 6TH STATION 2,620 M
T/ 090 3302 4466

MUNATSUKIEDOYA

20 MIN

6TH STATION 2,420 M
T/ 090 8324 6746

EDOYA

30 MINMIHARASHIKAN

30 MIN

06

15 MIN05

60 MIN

30 MIN04

50 MINOSADASANSOSUNAHARAI 5TH STATION 2,230 M
T/ 090 7854 7954
YOSHINOYASUBASHIRI TRAIL 5TH STATION 2,000 M
T/ 090 3254 5057, T/ 090 8680 0686

07

15 MINSUNAHARAI GO-GOMESUBASHIRI-GUCHI GO-GOME

08

1O MINSETOKANROKU-GOME

09

20 MINTAIYOKAN

60 MIN

40 MINASCENDINGDESCENDING

SUBASHIRI TRAIL
20TOKYOYA21

HIGASHIFUJISANSO KIKUYA

03

02

01

THE JAPANESEBASEBALL EXPERIENCE
Whether you’re a fan of Japan and America’s
shared national pastime, a baseball gamehere is often the backdrop to the more
intense experience of being a spectator.

Although most of Japan’s visitors don’t come from

instruments, the crowd becomes more of a spectacle

also allow carry-in food and drinks, even alcohol! Of

baseball-loving countries, going to a game here

than the game itself. Forget "Take me out to thecourse you can always order a freshly-poured draft

is by far one of the most exciting things you canballgame" as each stadium has its own traditions

from the vendors carrying jetpack-like dispensers.

do. Rather than just sit back and enjoy the game,involving thousands of flying balloons, umbrellas,

Japanese baseball is all about being a part of theand even custom chants for major players.

With twelve teams in the Japanese majors you’ll

non-stop crowd energy from beginning to end.

22

likely be in the area of at least one game during yourDespite the high-intensity fans, the atmosphere istravels. Same-day tickets are possible, but plan inWith hardcore fans occupying the cheaper outfieldalso much more laid-back. Food and drink prices

advance in case of sold-out games between rivals.

seats, leading constant chants, and even playing

are already quite reasonable, but most stadiums

Trust us, it’s worth it.
23

FOLLOW US @NAVITIMEJAPANlavender@BAEIGHsakura@GIRLEATWORLDF UR ANO, HOKK AIDO

gold leaf , udon

vanilla, houjicha, matcha, sakura@TWFOODMONSTERAR ASHI YAMA, K YO T O@MISAKI9543

AR ASHI YAMA, K YO T O

KO T OHIR A-GU, K AGAWA

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yuzu, shiso

NAK ANO, T OK YO@KRTMNM@NOMNOMTOKYOIZU, SHIZUOK A

25

K YO T O

GET READY FOR
FIREWORKS

SUMIDAGAWA FIREWORKS FESTIVAL (TOKYO)

01

ALONG SUMIDA RIVER (ASAKUSA STATION)JULY 30

In comparison to the boisterous crowds of a
local matsuri, fireworks festivals are a much
more relaxed affair.

NAGAOKA FIREWORKS (NIIGATA)

As impressive as the fireworks are, with hundreds of

KUMANO FIREWORKS (MIE)thousands of people in attendance it's worth going

SHICHIRI MIHAMA BEACH (KUMANOSHI STATION)

just to experience the crowd, atmosphere, and food.

AUGUST 17

02

ALONG SHINANO RIVER (NAGAOKA STATION)
AUGUST 2~3

There's nothing wrong with going the traditionalroute, navigating your way through the humid
evening air in a colorful yukata, picking up a free
fan to cool yourself, and bringing a plastic sheetor blanket to sit on as you wait for dusk. It's worth
showing up early to secure a space, but at mostfestivals you'll be able to find somewhere to sit even
if you arrive in the late afternoon. Even without aseat, viewing the fireworks while walking amongst
the crowd is also a great experience.
There are lots of street stalls selling food and drinks,
with our favorites being the yakisoba, yakitori andokonomiyaki, plus chocolate-covered bananas
and shaved ice for the kids. Any kind of drink isavailable as well, but beware crowded restroom
lines later in the day.
Typically starting after 7pm and lasting around 90
minutes, the displays are spectacular and feature a
range of shapes, colors, and even well-known anime
characters. Some even have competitions among
pyrotechnic companies as they show off their latest
designs and technology for festival planners.
If you stick around until the end of the show, wesuggest staying a little later, having another drink
on the riverbank, and relaxing in the warm summer
evening. The closest train stations are likely to be
extremely crowded, so it's best to take it easy or evenfind somewhere local to grab a bite to eat.
26

03

ROHTO Z!

01

COOLING EYE DROPS. REFRESHING IF YOU LIKE MINTY EYES,0804

SHIRT COOL

02

02

COOLING SPRAY FOR INSIDE AND OUTSIDE YOUR CLOTHES.

05
03

SOKAI SHOWER - EXTRA COOL

03

COOLING LOTION FOR USE DURING YOUR SHOWER.
06

HEAD FREEZER BY GATSBY
07

09

04

SPRAY IT RIGHT INTO YOUR HAIR. COOLER THAN FROSTED TIPS.

CRAZY COOL BY GATSBY

05

COOLING SPRAY THAT APPARENTLY NEEDS A CAUTION SIGN.
01

FRISK BATH SALTS

06

BATH SALTS TO COOL YOUR SKIN IN THE TUB.

FRISK BATH SOAP

07

NORMAL SOAP THAT LEAVES YOU ALL TINGLY.

BODY SHEETS BY GATSBY

08

YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND. FEEL COOL AND WIPE THE SWEAT AWAY ANYTIME.

BIORÉ SARASARA POWDER SHEETS

09

YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND IF YOU LIKE FRUITY, FLORAL AROMAS.
10HIYARON BY LOTTE

10

THE ONLY PRODUCT THAT ACTUALLY GETS COLD. SMASH IT AND ENJOY!

ACTUAL COOL JAPAN

at least trick us into thinking we are. The best partus are "body sheets". They’re compact, lightweight,

Though a bit different, one of the more popular

is that all of these are available at most drug andand serve as both body cooler and impromptu

souvenirs to bring back home are cooling eye drops,

convenience stores when things get sticky.

portable shower when you're sweaty and far frommeant to refresh and wake you up with a minty

your home base. With fragrance and cooling levelburst of menthol in your eyes. Great if you like

When Japan started the “Cool Biz” concept back inoptions, you have a lot to choose from, and best ofthat sort of thing, but only if you can handle the2005 to reduce energy consumption, office workers

all you won't look strange using them in public.

intensity!

was also reduced. Since then, manufacturers haveTo end the day on a cool note there are also plenty

Finally, the classic Hiyaron “one touch” coolingblessed us with a selection of gels, sprays, and otherof bath products that give you a cool, refreshingpacks instantly drop to freezing temperatures when

Whether fanning yourself at a festival or camped

products that give a tingly and cool skin sensation

feeling both in and out of the shower room.

you crush the pellets inside, lasting for a good forty

out in the air-conditioning, keeping cool in thedespite the heat. They won’t stop you from sweating

Everything from bath salts to soaps and shampoos

minutes. This is the one product that actually getssummer can be a constant battle. Luckily Japan’s

through that suit, but you’ll feel a lot better doing it.

are found in drug stores or lifestyle shops like Tokyu

COLD, so you can put it behind your neck, lie down

Hands and Don Quijote. Even mint-maker Frisk haswith it on your head, or just hold it against youra new line of bath-friendly body coolers.

cheek while you amble around town.

Forget the classic image of cool summer
breezes in an airy garden side tatami room.
If you’re in a Japanese city, get ready forpunishing sunshine and humidity.
Luckily we have some creative options.

could dress more casually, but the air conditioning

fast and experimental product cycles have given us
a never-ending selection of goods to keep us cool, or

Out of all of the cooling products, the champions for
28

29

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

TAKING TAXISMONEY TIPSGETTING CONNECTEDWith the most efficient, yet easily mostcomplex public transport in the world, ittakes a lifetime to master Japan’s trainsystem. Still, there are a few things to makeyour time here much easier on the rails.

Depending on how far you’re going, taking ataxi may be one of the more expensive things
you do during your trip, but there are a few
ways to make the most of them.

It’s hard to get by on just one form of money
during your time in Japan. In fact, you will
most likely be dealing with three of themrather often.

Even though Japan is a highly connected
country, getting online as a visitor can be
frustrating. Even just for basic mappingand information searches, having a reliable
connection can be a challenge.

01

01

While credit cards are becoming more readily

and in Japanese if possible. Cities here are dense

accepted, Japan is still very much a cash-based

companies all working together, but that also

and drivers most likely won’t know your location

country, so you’ll need to have a decent amount on

during a holiday, it’s hard to go without featuresmeans all-day passes for one rail system won’t work

unless it’s a common point of interest.

you for walking around. The easiest place to getlike mapping and transit search. We recommend

cash is at 7-Eleven convenience stores, providing

renting a portable Pocket Wifi during your trip,

Not every taxi takes credit cards, though it’sinternational ATM services with zero fees. We also

especially if you want to share the connection withmore common these days. Look for a sticker on thehave an ATM search feature in our smartphone app.

someone else. They’re fast, lightweight, and allow

01

Japan’s railways are a mix of private and public

Have the address for your destination ready,on another one, so be sure of your plans in advance.
02
02

Rather than buy passes or individual tickets

per trip, we recommend to get a Pasmo, Suica, or

window with the card you want to use, and if you

other similar e-money card. Your unused cash isaren’t sure just ask the driver in advance.

While it’s nice to think about being offline

you to use any kind of device that supports wifi.
02

Even when using credit card, there’s noguarantee that smaller shops will accept your02

No need to ever touch the door! Your driver will

particular brand. Best to make sure it's acceptedor tablet, you can now find data SIMs in electronics

refundable, and makes moving around frictionless.
03

01

If you’re set on using a SIM card for your phone

Getting on and off trains can be quite simple, as

always open and close it himself, mostly to prevent

when you first arrive, or you’ll soon be making astores, convenience stores, and even vending

most people politely line up and wait their turn. Be

you from opening it onto an unfortunate cyclist or

quick run to the ATM.

machines. While they don’t provide you a phoneaware of areas for elderly and pregnant passengers,

nearby car.

03

and if you aren’t sure just follow the crowd.
Knowing which trains to take and when is the

Our favorite form of money is e-money cards

Taxis can be quite expensive if you’re taking alike Suica and Pasmo, which also double as payment

03

long trip. Our app provides a simple taxi fare searchsystems for riding public transportation. Not only

to save on mobile data costs. Some companies

to give you the best estimate for your journey.

04
04

number, you’ll be online in a snap.
03

It can be good to find wifi spots when you wantthat, but you can make purchases directly fromlike Docomo provide countrywide wifi on public

our smartphone app, with the most up-to-datevending machines and convenience stores without

networks, but more locations are offering it as well.

schedules making for a stress-free experience.

getting a lot of loose change in return.

It’s best not to bank on having wifi or you’ll gethardest part of getting around. Of course we suggest

Read more on www.navitimejapan.com/traveling30

frustrated when you can’t find it when you need it.
31

REAL LANGUAGE SKILLS
It can be frustrating not being able to communicate, but it's also part of the charm of travel!
How about just getting by smoothly and not feeling completely lost? With just a bit ofpractice you can break the ice, and your efforts will always be appreciated.

AT THE RESTAURANT

SHOPPING

Luckily for all of us, picture menus are common in

Whether you’re grabbing a snack at the conbini orJapan for everyone, not just touristy places. Still, it’ssneaker shopping, you’ll be interacting with shop

good to know a few key phrases to order things.

staff in some way.

HELLO & GOODBYE

PLEASE & THANK YOU

Whether greeting a stranger or a friend, a simple

Ahh, the basics of any civilized person should be justarimasuka? (Do you have a reservation?). If so,

version of Irrasshaimase!, often in unison. It’s

‘hello’ fits any occasion, but Japanese has a bit more

that: Basic. Mastering common courtesies goes a

say Hai (yes) followed by your name. If not, they’ll

their way of saying “Welcome!”, and helps them

nuance than you may be used to.

long way to feeling comfortable.

either say they can’t accommodate you or ask…

keep up their energy during the day. This requires

01

When you first arrive they may ask Yoyaku

01

Generally you’ll be greeted by staff with somezero response from you besides maybe a smile or a01

To greet someone just use one of these phrases,

01

Kudasai is generally translated as “please” but

02...Nan-mei sama desuka? (How many people?).

simple greeting.

smile, and all will be good with the world.

it’s more about wanting to receive something. For

Showing how many with your fingers is perfectly

O-hayo / Good morning

an all-purpose please, onegai-shimasu is far more

acceptable. If you can’t show your group size on one

02

Konnichi-wa / Hello or Good afternoon

natural. For example, when taking a taxi to Shibuya

hand, best to make a reservation.

(Would you like to try that on?).

Konban-wa / Good evening

say Shibuya onegai-shimasu, as kudasai would be a
bit odd. Just need a beer? Biiru kudasai is fine.

02

Staff may also ask Shichaku shimasuka?

Meeting for the first time? Your new friend

might drop a hajime-mashite followed by their

02

name. It basically means “Nice to meet you” but it’s

your purposes a simple arigatou will be enough, andonly used at the very moment when you first meetadding gozaimasu on the end makes it more polite.

There are several ways to say thanks, but forand exchange names. Any other time and it’s odd.

03

Get the staff’s attention anytime with

03

When you make your purchase you’ll get someSuimasen! and don’t be afraid to be loud about it inother questions as well:a more casual place.

Fukuro irimasuka? / Do you need a bag?
Response: Onegai-shimasu (Please) or Iranai-desu (I04When they ask, O-kimari desuka? (Are you

don’t need one)

ready to order?), just point to the photo on the menu

Example: Hajime-mashite. Roger desu.

03

Just ate a tasty meal in a more casual joint or atand reply with a simple, Kore, kudasai (This one,

Issho de ii desuka?

(Nice to meet you. I’m Roger.)a friend’s place? Give your regards to the chef withplease). If you want to change amounts of things,

Is it ok to put everything in one bag? (Usually forgochiso-sama.

add hitotsu (1), futatsu (2), mittsu (3), or yottsu (4)hot/cold or heavy/soft food items)

after kore or the item name. Order more than that

Response: Onegai-shimasu (Please) or Betsu betsu

and you’re on your own.

de (Separately)

03

Saying goodbye is a bit more tricky, but an

all-purpose mata-ne! (see you again!) is fine. If

04

you’re going to see them again the following day,slight like a bump in the train, sumimasen getsa mata-ashita (see you tomorrow) fits a bit better.

you back in their good graces. Gomen-nasai is for

05

The well-known sayonara has its time and place,something worse like knocking someone overbeer please) and Okaike kudasai (check please), but

Do you want me to heat it up? (for food at thebut unless you have the tone down you might soundcompletely. Anything beyond that, and you’ll bethey won’t likely understand your “signing a checkconbini)like you’re saying goodbye FOREVER, or about tomastering the art of the bow in no time (see below).

in the air” motion made from across the room.

Response: Onegai-shimasu (Please) or ii-desu (NoIf you ask for “the bill” in English there’s a goodthanks)Uh oh, need to apologise? If it’s a harmlessbehead your enemy.
05
04

Another greeting you may hear, but probably

Yeah, everyone else is doing it, but don’t feel

Other useful phrases are Nama kudasai (draft

Atatame masuka?

chance you’ll end up with a beer, so avoid that word.
Pointo caardo omochi desuka?

obligated to bow to people while you’re here.

have no need to use, is otsukaresama. Often

Knowing when, how, and to what degree takes some

06

translated as “Thank you for your hard work”, it issituational awareness. Anyway, most bows are

Caado wa daijoubu? (Are credit cards ok?), but makeprogram of some kind)also a blanket word for co-workers to use in place

actually just deeper nods, so stick with that unlesssure to ask that when you arrive, or have plenty of

Response: Either pull out your point card (unlikely)of not only both hello and goodbye, but also as

you’ve done something terrible, or are meeting the

cash on-hand as a backup.

or say Nai desu.

an acknowledgment in any type of fleeting office

Emperor. Even then, practice first so you don’t lookinteraction with those you may not be so close to.

awkward (see: Barack Obama).
32

If you want to pay by credit card you can ask

Do you have a point card? (Many shops have a point

Read more on www.navitimejapan.com/traveling33

Acknowledgements

About

Get in touch

EDITOR | Michael Keferl

NAVITIME for Japan Travel is the most

GENERAL

PRODUCTION | Yoko Kitakoga

downloaded smartphone app for travellers

contact@navitimejapan.com

visiting Japan, available in English,
ART DIRECTION | Mimmo Cangiano Belcuore

Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese,

ARE YOU A CREATOR?

and Korean languages.

We’re always excited to collaborate
with both visitors and locals for written,

PHOTO EDITOR | Don Kennedy
COVER ILLUSTRATOR | Chong Fei Giap

Featuring Japan’s most popular train routephotographic, and video content. If you

ILLUSTRATOR | Adrian Hogan

search functionality, the app also includes

are interested in documenting your trip or

multimodal route search, navigation, real-

sharing your experiences of Japan, you can

WRITERS

time train timetables, and offline search forfind more information at the link below:

Jenie Gabriel

free wifi spots.

navitimejapan.com/creators

Marky Star
Michael Keferl

PRINTER株式会社 誠文堂 (Seibundo)
Published June 2016

Shinjuku

Publisher

発行人

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

NAVITIME for Japan Travel

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

NAVITIME JAPAN Co., Ltd.

株式会社ナビタイムジャパン

reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,

Minami Aoyama Tokyo Bldg.

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