July 10, 2013

Mandom Discovers Scalp Oil Decreases
Styling Ability- Development of a Cosmetic Hair Product for Young Men that
Prevents Effects from Scalp Oil Mandom Corporation (Headquarters: Osaka; CEO: Motonobu Nishimura; hereinafter, “Mandom”) discovered that oil
secreted from the scalp (scalp oil) migrates to the hair, decreasing the styling ability of styling products (setting ability,arranging ability, holding ability). Oleic acid, in particular, easily migrates to the hair, and its effect on setting ability were
found to be large. These research results and the powder styling technology developed by Mandom (reference ) were applied
to successfully develop a styling agent, Gatsby Hair Jam, which is not affected by scalp oils and will go on sale in Fall 2013
(sale date, 8/26).
These research results were announced at the 72nd SCCJ Research Symposium that was held on 7/9/2013 and are also
intended to be announced at the 31st Annual Meeting of the Japanese Society of Aesthetic Dermatology, to be held in Kobe
from 8/10 to 8/11/2013.
1. Scalp oils negatively affect hairstyle
Previously, the inability to create a desired hairstyle and the inability to maintain a hair style were believed to be primarily
caused by water from humidity and sweat. However, Mandom believed that factors other than water affect hairstyle, andconducted a study showing that hairstyle is affected by scalp oils.
(1) Scalp oil migrates from the scalp surface to the hair
Hair from 6 subjects was sampled immediately after washing and 7 hours later, and the amount of scalp oil on the hair wasanalyzed. A higher amount of oil was observed in the hair 7 hours after washing than immediately after washing, and scalp oils
were shown to have migrated to the hair.
(2) Effect of migrated oils on styling ability
 Effect on styling ability (*1)
Hair was styled with styling agent (hair gel, hair wax) immediately after model scalp oils, prepared based on analyticalvalues, were applied to hair bundles, and the styling ability of that hair was measured in comparison to hair to which the model
scalp oils were not applied (unapplied). After measuring the setting ability for the hair gel (the load when force is applied tobundles and the bundles are bent) and the arrangement ability for hair wax (load applied to a comb passed through the hairbundles), both types of hair-styling ability were found to decrease as a result of applying the model oils (Figure 2).
Furthermore, a panel of 11 judges performed a functional evaluation of when hair gel or hair wax was actually applied tohuman hair immediately after washing (without application of oil) and when it was applied 24 hours after washing, and thepresence of scalp oils decreased styling ability in both situations.

(*1) Styling ability is the ability to style hair by hardening it with a resin (setting ability) or the ability to freely arrange thetips of the hair using oils without hardening the hair (arrangement ability); examples of typical styling agents for each typeinclude hair gel for setting ability and hair wax for arrangement ability.

Contact

mandom corp.
Public Relations Div.
mail: press@mandom.co.jp

URL: https://www.mandom.co.jp/en/

Please contact us in Japanese or English.

-1- Effect on holding ability
We also studied the effect of scalp oil on the holding ability (ability to maintain a hairstyle) of hair gel, which styles thehair by hardening it with a resin.
After applying the model scalp oils to hair bundles, hair gel was placed in the hair, and then the hair was rolled with a rod
to create curls. The percentage of curls held after a set amount of time was evaluated. The percentage of held curls was lower
when the model scalp oils were applied than when the scalp oils were not applied.

2. Oleic acid causes hair styles to unravel in young men
Oleic acid, abundant in the scalp oils of young men, was found to easily migrate to the hair and significantly affect settingability. This oleic acid is believed to be one reason for hair styles in young men becoming unraveled.
(1) Oleic acid is abundant in the scalp oils of young men, and it migrates to the hair especially easily.
Previously, Mandom found that the scalp oils of young men had a higher percentage of free fatty acids, including oleic
acid, than the scalp oils of middle-aged men (Figure 5). Therefore, we immersed the scalp/hair model roots into model scalp
oils or oleic acid and studied the ability of these substances to migrate onto the hair, and we found that oleic acid migrates onto
the hair especially easily (Figure 6).
(2) Oleic acid has a particularly strong negative effect on setting ability
When the hair was styled with hair gel after applying each scalp oil component onto hair bundles, oleic acid was
discovered to have a particularly large effect in reducing setting ability (Figure 7).
Applying powder technology based on the results of these studies, Mandom developed a styling agent (Figure 8) thatminimizes scalp-oil migration to the hair, owing to the oil-absorption effect of the powder and the fact that it prevents theformation of the gaps (capillaries) between the hairs that serve as pathways for migrating scalp oils.
This cosmetic hair product that minimizes the effects of scalp oils will be placed on the market as “Gatsby Hair Jam” (sale date8/26).

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<Reference diagrams>

Figure 2. Change in styling ability due to thepresence of scalp oils (hair bundle evaluation)High

No scalp
oil
Scalp
oil

Load (gf)

Setting ability

Quantity of scalp oilcomponents on thehairHighLow

No scalp oilScalp oil

Arranging ability
Load (gf)Figure 1. Change in the quantity ofscalp oil components on the hairover time after washing

Low

Hair gel

Hair wax

Time after washing

Figure 4. Change in the holding ability of hair gel due to scalp oils

Styling ability (points)

Hair gelLet to sit
for set time

Hair wax

Under 35 °C, 80% RH
conditions

No scalpoil

Hair bundle
Curl hold rate length - Rn(%) =Hair bundle
length - R0

Scalp oil

No scalp oil
Scalp oil

Curl hold rate (%)

Figure 3. Change in styling ability due to thepresence of scalp oils (human headevaluation)

Elapsed time (min)*** p<0.001, Mann–Whitney U test

Figure 5. Percentage of scalp oil components according to age group

Figure 6. Amount of model scalp oils and oleic acid that migrated

Triglycerides
Free fatty acids(including oleic acid)
Other
Middle-aged Young menmen (n=21)(n=22)
Scalp/hair model-3-Quantity migrated to the hair(mL/2 cm/hair bundle)

to the hair 24 hours later

Model scalp oil

Oleic acid

Figure 7. Setting ability according toscalp oil components

Figure 8. Difference in the flow of scalp oilsby styling function

Setting ability
Load (gf)

HighLow• Linear adhesion
mechanism(hair gel, hair wax)
A pathway for skin oil isformed in between the hairs

Scalp
Skin oil flow

• Point adhesion
mechanism(powder styling)
A pathway for skin oil is noformed between the hairs
Scalp<References>
News Release Related to Powder Styling(Released November 12, 2010)“Mandom Develops Third New Styling Mechanism After Setting Polymer and Oil-Derived Styling Mechanisms”-4-