Photos Kaoru Miki

Honmonji in Ikegami

Mecca for Lotus Sect Buddhists

Late September 1282. A frail and ailing
Buddhist monk is crossing the Musashino
Plain when he becomes too ill to continue. His companions take him to the nearby
home of one of his followers, Munenaka
Ikegami, the local samurai. The monk is Nichiren,
founder of the Lotus Sect of Buddhism.
Over the next three weeks, in spite of rest andcare, Nichiren’s condition continues to deteriorate. Propped against a pillar in Ikegami’s home,
he preaches to those who come daily to see him.
But he is dying and he knows it. On October
13, 1282, reciting the mantra he introduced,namu myoho renge kyo, he passes to Nirvana.
According to legend, a cherry tree in the courtyard outside the house bloomed in mourning.
Fast forward to 2008. Ikegami, a prosperous
farming community pre-dating Edo, has becomea suburb of Tokyo, just 18 minutes from Gotanda
on the Tokyu Ikegami Line. It’s a pleasant neighborhood that has retained its village feel, as wellas its history and strong connection to Lotus SectBuddhism. The main sights to take in are a plum
garden, the site of Nichiren’s death, and the mostimportant Lotus Sect temple in the country.
To access the sights in that order, begin your56 / ACCJ Journal / October 2008

visit from Nishi Magome Station on the Toei
Asakusa Line. Leave from the south exit and walksouth. After about 600m, turn left at a traffic
light labeled “Honmonji.” Take the first right andyou’ll see the entrance to Ikegami Baien (池上梅園)
on the left. Open from 9:00 to 16:30, admissionis ¥100. The garden has over 370 plum trees andover 800 azalea bushes. There are also threeteahouses, one of which overlooks a tranquil pond.
As you leave the garden, turn left and thenleft again. After 150m, you’ll find a lane tothe left leading to a side entrance of Daibo
Hongyoji (大坊本行寺), a temple built on the siteof Ikegami’s house, where Nichiren died. Just
inside the gate is a fenced-off cherry tree said
to be the tree that bloomed when Nichirendied, and which still blooms every October. To
the far left is a green-roofed house called Rinju
no ma (the place of death). Step inside andyou can see the pillar, wrapped in brocade,against which Nichiren leaned as he delivered
his last sermon. From the rear of the house you
can relax and enjoy the pond and garden.
Leave the temple grounds from the main gate(not the side gate through which you came in),turn left and proceed up the stone steps of theBy Vicki L. Beyer / Classic Journeys

hill. On the left you’ll see a red stupa known as
the Honmonji Treasure Tower, built on the site of
Nichiren’s cremation. The current structure wasbuilt in 1830 and is currently being restored.
At the top of the stairs, cross the road to theback entrance of Ikegami Honmonji (池上本門寺),
a large complex of temples covering 21ha ofland. Regarded as the main temple of the Lotus
Sect, it was founded by Nichiren just before his
death in 1282. In spite of the complex’s long
history, most of the buildings were constructed
after World War II — the site was badly damaged
during the March and April 1945 fire bombings.
Ahead, on the right, you will see the backof the main temple building. Turn right andwalk toward the front of the structure. As youapproach, you’ll see a building on the righthousing a rotating library/prayer wheel called
the kyozo. Built in 1784, this is one of only threestructures to have survived the fire bombings.
The gigantic main temple building is surprisingly serene. Having been rebuilt in 1964, it isalso somewhat sterile. The central courtyardsits between the main temple building and theNiomon — gate of the guardian kings. The bell
tower is on the right, while, to the left, down alane through the cemetery, is the 29.4m pagoda.
This jewel, built in 1608, is the oldest pagoda
in the Tokyo area. Of special note are the carvings of the 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac, on
the eaves of the lowest level — three on eachside. Continue through the cemetery to the rightfrom the pagoda for about 50m, to a walkway
leading to the roof of the Ota Kumin Kaikan, apublic hall that hugs the side of the hill. From thisrooftop you can enjoy expansive views across thevalley. If you’re lucky, you even can see Mt. Fuji.
Return to the cemetery and take the first left.
You’ll soon find yourself at the top of a flight of
96 stone steps, the main approach to Ikegami
Honmonji. The gate at the bottom of thesestairs is the third surviving pre-war structure.
Leaving the gate, walk straight ahead, thencross the canal, and turn right at the lights anddogleg to the left onto Honmonji-dori, the street

leading to Ikegami Station. Like many temple
approaches, this street is lined with shops andrestaurants, many of which sell handmade treatsthat have some connection to the life of thetemple. Take a little time to explore, and you’ll
find something special to commemorate yourvisit to the Mecca of Lotus Sect Buddhism.
O-eshiki
From October 11 to 13, more than 350,000
followers of the Lotus Sect gather in an annual
pilgrimage to honor their founder, climaxing
in the spectacular Mando parade of 10,000
lanterns, from 19:00 to midnight on October 12.
Proceeding down Ikegami-dori from opposite directions, the parade joins at Shin Sando,
before heading to the temple. Lanterns atoptall poles are festooned with streamers offlowers looking like weeping branches ofcherry blossoms. Drums, bells and whistles canbe heard throughout the temple grounds.
Vicki L. Beyer is a freelance travel writer based inTokyo, an ACCJ Governor, and author of a new
guidebook to Kamakura, 10 Temples on 2 Wheels,(www.scribblerspublishing.com). We aregiving away two copies of 10 Temples on
2 Wheels. Simply e-mail editor@paradigm.
co.jp by October 20. Winners will be picked
at random.

October 2008 / ACCJ Journal / 57