50 Common Asian
Skincare Ingredients*Products shown are examples, notrecommendations

Adenosine

Extracted from yeast. Anti-inflammatory (soothing) and helps boost collagen and elastin(anti-aging)AHA (Glycolic Acid)

From cane sugar. The smallest type of AHA, making it very effective for fine lines, removing
dead skin, acne, and oiliness. Can be harsh, so best for oily skin or experienced chemical
exfoliation users. Increases sensitivity to the sun.

AHA (Lactic Acid)

The medium size/strength version of AHA, between glycolic and mandelic acids.Also
effective for fine lines, removing dead skin, acne, and oiliness. Good for most skin types, but
avoid if allergic to dairy. Increases sensitivity to the sun.

AHA (Mandelic Acid)

Made from almonds. The largest size/weakest strength version of AHA. Still effective for finelines, removing dead skin, acne, and oiliness. Best for sensitive skin. Avoid if allergic to nuts.
Increases sensitivity to the sun.

AlcoholThere are several different kinds, with varying levels of harshness. The gentler cetyl, stearyl,and cetearyl alcohols tend to just improve texture and stabilize formulas. Alcohol high in theingredients list is usually mattifying for oily skin. Sensitive skin should use with caution.

AlgaeIncludes seaweed. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Good for dehydration and irritation.

Aloe Vera

Increases hydration, but especially known for soothing skin, including sunburns, razor burn,and wounds. Good for dehydration and irritation.

ArbutinA safer cousin of hydroquinone. Inhibits melanin production, making it good for skinbrightening. Helps treat PIH, PIE, and hyperpigmentation.

Astaxanthin

Antioxidant in some marine plants and animals. Fades discoloration, smooths fine lines,
attracts moisture, and is photo-protective. Good for sun damage (sun spots), wrinkles, anddry skin.

Azelaic Acid

Fades discoloration (except sun spots) by inhibiting tyrosinase. Also has antibacterial andanti-inflammatory properties, and may prevent acne. Good for PIE/PIH, Melasma, Rosacea,and acne.

Bee Venom

Triggers skin repair and collagen production. Also has antibacterial properties. Good foraging skin and acne. Avoid if you have a bee allergy.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Antiseptic, good for acne. Best for oily skin, and use with caution as it can be drying.

Beta Glucan

Sugars from the cell walls of cereals (such as oats), bacteria, and fungi with antiinflammatory effects. Good for redness and skin irritation.

BHA (Salicylic Acid)

The most common kind of BHA. Oil-soluble active that can penetrate and clear out pores.
Recommended for oily skin, and good for acne. Use with caution as it can be drying. Do not
use with an aspirin allergy.

BHA (Betaine Salicylate)A slightly more gentle version of Salicylic Acid. Oil-soluble active that can penetrate andclear out pores. Suitable for most skin types, and good for acne. Use with caution as it canbe mildly drying, and may affect those with an aspirin allergy.

Centella

An herbaceous plant native to the Asian wetlands. Its major effect is soothing, making it
good for irritation, redness, and possibly acne.

Ceramides

Waxy fats that boost your skin barrier. Good for dry skin and those with a damaged skinbarrier due to sun exposure, over-exfoliation,etc.

CollagenThe main structural protein found in skin. Improves skin strength and elasticity. Good foraging skin.

Donkey Milk

Contains several vitamins and milk fats. Good for dry and dehydrated skin. Cow, goat, andother milks have essentially the same effects. Theoretically those who are lactose intolerant(NOT allergic) should be fine, but always exercise caution

Egg White

Contains Collagen and Protein. Tightens skin, which can temporarily reduce the appearanceof fine lines and pores. Can help draw out oil and degunk pores. Good for aging and oilyskin.

Fermented Rice/ Sake

AKA Rice Ferment Filtrate. Contains kojic acid, and thus has the same effect. Fights
discoloration by inhibiting tyrosinase, which reduces melanin synthesis. Can brighten. Goodfor PIE/PIH, uneven skin tone, and dull skin.

Fermented Soy or Natto

Fades and prevents discoloration from the sun (sun spots). May slow collagen breakdown,
promote collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and act as antioxidants.Good for aging skinand uneven skin tone.

Ginseng

An expensive root plant grown in North America and East Asia.A traditional ingredient thathelps improve collagen production, reducing wrinkles.It may also heal skin, reduce
discoloration, and act as an antioxidant.Good for aging, dry, or uneven skin.

Glycerin

Attracts and retains water, making it a popular humectant. Good for dehydration.

Green Tea

AKA Matcha. Mainly known as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Can also reduce
production of oil and smooth skin Good for redness, rough skin, and oiliness.

HoneyA moisturizing ingredient with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Good for dryskin, irritation, and acne.Horse Oil

Derived from horse fat, and contains more linolenic acid and less palmitic acid and stearicacid content than oils derived from sheep or cows, making it both more similar to human
sebum and very moisturizing. Might reduce UVB injury, and have anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory effects. Primarily good for moisturizing, may help with sun damage, irritation,and acne.

Hyaluronic Acid/Sodium Hyaluronate

A substance naturally present in the human body, especially in fluids in the eyes and joints.
Primarily a strong humectant, and it attracts water. May also promote healing and improveskin structure. Good for dehydration and irritation.

Kojic Acid

Produced by several kinds of algae. Fights discoloration by inhibiting tyrosinase, which
reduces melanin synthesis. Can brighten. Good for PIE/PIH, uneven skin tone, and dull skin.

Licorice

Mainly used for reducing discoloration, and brightening and evening skin tone. Also may be
antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. Good for PIE/PIH, acne, and redness.

Lycopene

Carotenoid pigment that gives tomatoes, pink grapefruit, and some other fruits andvegetables their red color. A powerful antioxidant, and also may smooth skin and provide
some sun protection. Good for rough skin and preventing sun damage.

Niacinamide

Also known as Vitamin B3 and Nicotinamide. Fades discoloration, brightens, and evens skintone. Encourages collagen and ceramide synthesis to reduce wrinkles and improve skinelasticity and moisture. Good for PIE/PIH, melasma, sun damage, dryness, and aging skin.

Peptides

Natural biological or artificially manufactured short chains of amino acid monomers linkedby peptide bonds. Helps encourage skin regeneration, making it good for aging skin.

PHA (Poly Hydroxic Acids)

Includes lactobionic acid (antioxidant, soothing, hydrating) and gluconolactone (antioxidant,anti-inflammatory). Works very similarly to AHAs, but without increased sensitivity to the sun.
Larger molecule size, so potentially less effective, but more gentle. Good for fine lines andremoving dead skin from sensitive skin, even with rosacea and atopic dermatitis.

Propolis

AKA “bee glue”, a mixture of bee saliva,wax, and plant secretions meant to seal beehives. Amoisturizer (emollient) similar to honey, it is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. Good for dryskin and acne.

Retinoids/ Tretinoin

Includes popular Tretinoin and Retinol. They work as cell-communicators: helping you sheddead skin (similar to AHAs), and improving how new skin cells divide and function.
(prevents premature aging and stimulates collagen). Good for aging skin,hyperpigmentation, and acne. Use with caution as it more irritating than the other actives.

Rice Extract

Also related to rice bran oil and rice bran extract.Hydrates, moisturizes, improves elasticity,and contains antioxidants. Good for dry,dehydrated and aging skin.

Rose

Rose extract has hydrating properties and provides a calming and astringent effect. Good
for aging, dehydrated, or irritated skin and acne. Rosehip seed contains Vitamins A, B3, C,
D and E, as well as essential fatty acids, and can aid with tissue regeneration and combating
sun damage. Good for aging skin.

Royal Jelly

A bee secretion used to nourish queens and larvae. Potent emollient and humectant, andcontains many essential amino acids.Also has antibiotic and fungicidal properties.Good fordryness, dehydration, aging, and acne.

SnailAKA Snail Secretion Filtrate or Snail Mucin. Protects a snail’s foot as it glides, and has similarprotective qualities for humans. Moisturizing and hydrating, and repairs damaged skin. May
stimulate the formation of collagen and elastin, and fade hyperpigmentation and acne scars. Goodfor dry, dehydrated, aging, and damaged or wounded skin. Caution if you have dust mite allergies.

Starfish

Depending on the species of starfish, may reduce the activity of tyrosinase, inhibiting
melanin production. Also may promote wound healing, skin regeneration, and collagenproduction. Emollient and humectant. Good for aging skin, dryness, dehydration, skindamage, and hyperpigmentation.

Syn-ake

Synthetic snake venom. Marketed as an alternative to botox, and reduces muscular
contractions in the face and cell movement; keeping the skin’s appearance smooth. Good
for aging skin.

Tea Tree Oil

A powerful antiseptic with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Good
for acne and oily skin.Use with caution, can be harsh.

Tranexamic Acid

A synthetic derivative of lysine. Originally an oral medication to prevent major blood loss.
When ingested or (preferably) used topically in low doses, inhibiting tyrosinase and reducing
production of melanin. Good for hyperpigmentation, particularly Melasma. May help
Rosacea when combined with Niacinamide.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid/LAA)

The most popular and effective derivative of Vitamin C in terms of stimulating collagen production,
evening skin tone/reducing hyperpigmentation, and sun protection. Usually not stable as a liquid,requiring storage in a dark fridge. Good for aging or uneven skin, hyperpigmentation, brightening,
and added sun protection. Caution: low-pH is too harsh for some people.

Vitamin C(MAP, Magnesium
Ascorbyl Phosphate)

Similar to L-AA, as it hydrolyzes to AA in the skin. It’s shelf stable (no fridge needed) and nowait times. Effective at lower concentrations than L-AA, and is better for those with sensitiveskin. The best Vit C derivative for brightening. Good for sensitive aging or uneven skin,hyperpigmentation, brightening, and added sun protection.

Vitamin C(SAP, SodiumAscorbyl Phosphate)

Similar to MAP in that SAP is shelf stable and good for sensitive skin. SAP will also convert
to ascorbic acid on your skin, but is not as effective in collagen synthesis or protecting
against sun damage as L-AA or MAP. Helps with acne and can be used with salicylic acid.
Good for sensitive aging or uneven skin, hyperpigmentation, acne, and mild sun protection.

Vitamin C(AP, Ascorbyl
Palmitate)

A fat-soluble derivative of Vit C. Best to use in liquid and avoid creams, as they may sit on
top instead of absorbing. Less effective than other derivatives, but absorbs into cell
membranes, so doesn’t leave the skin as quickly as others. Best to use in tandem withanother kind of Vitamin C.

Yeast/Yeast Ferment
Filtrate

Usually saccharomyces and galactomyces. Contains Beta-Glucan, and so has the same
effects. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and smoothing. Fermentation breaks ingredients
down and makes them more concentrated and easily absorbed, so these are usually in First
Treatment Essences that help other products work better. Good for dullness, uneven skin,irritation, and redness.

YogurtContains lactic acid, giving it mildly the same effects, such as reduction of fine lines,
removing dead skin, and reducing acne and oiliness. Avoid if allergic to dairy.