Revie w

AATCC
Vol. 24, No. 2 March/April 2024

Coloration and 			Dyeing Trends

The Second C: 			
A Higher Class of Problem

CONTENTS

March/April 2024

3
4
6
9
10
12
29

Conversations
New Members
Upcoming
14
Member Connection
News Bites
Students
AATCC Journal of Research:
Peer Reviewed Research Abstracts
32 Ends & Picks
33 Events Calendar

16

FEATURE

14 Coloration and Dyeing Trends
By Juliana Barnes		As an industry, the textile colorant and pigment business is amajor contributor to the global economy and, unfortunately, to global
pollution, due to the adverse effects of chemicals, greenhouse gases,
and wastewater. Here is a look into the new technologies being
developed to color fabric in a more sustainable way.

TECHNICAL INSIGHTS

24 The Second C: A Higher Class of Problem
By Keith Hoover

Color is important. Lab dips are not. Brands must solve for “a higher
class of problem” than lab dips. What are those “new and improved”
problems? Choosing the right color specification is the first and mostimportant challenge. Digitizing that color is the next step so that the
specification can be communicated throughout the process. And
identifying everyone that needs access to the color specification willbring real value.

24

24

34

PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

Philip Brown, Clemson University
Jiangning Che, California Polytechnic University, Pomona
Renuka Dhandapani, Cotton Incorporated
Elizabeth Easter, University of Kentucky
Chi Wai Kan, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
Meredith McQuerry, Flordia State University
Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University
Ram Sabnis, Georgia-Pacific LLC
Ashis Kumar Samanta, University of Calcutta
Gang Sun, University of California, Davis
Jiping Wang, Shanghai University of Engineering Science (Chair)

AATCC OFFICERS

President: John Crocker, SDL Atlas
President-Elect: Andrew Fraser, Textile Color and Sourcing Solutions LLC
Immediate Past President: Harrie Schoots, Revive USA Textile Consulting
Treasurer: Barry Brady, Organic Dyes and Pigments LLC

AATCC REVIEW STAFF

Publisher/Executive Vice-President: Diana A. Wyman
Editor/Communications & Membership Director: Maria C. Thiry
Design, Production, & Circulation: Bliss C. Abrantes
Acquisitions Editor: Ann Holland

SUBSCRIPTIONSAATCC Review is published bi-monthly by AATCC. Periodicals 		
postage paid at Durham, NC, USA and additional mailing offices.
To report missing issues or order back issues and reprints visit 		www.aatcc.org/read or email colemanb@aatcc.org.
SUBSCRIBE: www.aatcc.org/order
SUBSCRIPTION POLICY: www.aatcc.org/order/#subpolicy
Postmaster: Send address changes to AATCC Review,			
PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215, USA

PERMISSIONSAATCC connects the global textile
community to empower an innovative,
informed, and sustainable future.
Let AATCC know how to empower YOU andyour business!
Best regards,

Diana A. Wyman
Executive Vice-President | diana@aatcc.org

Copyright for AATCC Review is owned by AATCC, unless otherwise noted.
To copy or distribute beyond the fair use provisions of the US CopyrightAct, visit the Copyright Clearance Center Inc. website and specify 		
ISSN 1532-8813. (www.copyright.com)
www.aatcc.org/connect/#permissions

BE PART OF AATCC REVIEW!

If you have expertise on an upcoming feature topic, we’ d love to hearfrom you. Please contact us as soon as possible to arrange an interview.
CONTACT THE EDITOR
Maria Thiry, Communications & Membership Director
thirym@aatcc.org | +1.919.549.3458
PEER REVIEW & TECHNOLOGY PAPER SUBMISSIONSAnn Holland, Acquisitions Editor
hollanda@aatcc.org | +1.919.549.8933
www.aatcc.org/connect/#publish

AATCC Review (ISSN 1532-8813 Print)
Vol. 24, No. 2, March/April 2024
© 2024, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AD INDEXAATCC ............................................ Back Cover, 6, 23
AATCC Foundation..................................................13
Test Fabrics Inc. *.....................................................17
VeriVide *................................................. Inside Cover*AATCC Corporate Member

ADVERTISE WITH AATCC
Marcia Bakst, Advertising Sales
marcia@llmpubs.com | +1.503.445.2221
www.aatcc.org/connect/#advertise

AWARD WINNING PUBLICATION

Responsibility for opinions contained in papers, articles, and correspondence is that of the authors, not of AATCC.
Mention of any trade name or proprietary product in AATCC Review does not constitute a guarantee or warranty ofthe product by AATCC and does not imply its approval to the exclusion of other products that may also be suitable.

CONVERSATIONS
Dear Members,
It’s nomination season! No political commentary here. It’s time tonominate fellow AATCC members for various awards and positions on
the Board of Directors.
AATCC is a member-driven and member-focused Association. One
way we acknowledge this is by honoring the many devoted and talented volunteers that keep AATCC strong. Please take a moment tonominate at least one person—even if it’s yourself.
A list of awards and criteria is posted at www.aatcc.org/awards.
Awards cover young professionals, research, education, and more. If
you want to honor something or someone else, send me a note andwe’ll figure out how to get everyone the recognition they deserve!
There is more detail and a nomination form for Board positions at www.aatcc.org/bod. Nominations
are open for all four Interest Group chairs and President-elect. There are also leadership opportunities
in several AATCC committees. Reach out to a staff member or committee chair if you’re interested insomething specific or just want to learn more.
Thank you for continually sharing your time, experience, and knowledge with fellow AATCC members
and the larger textile industry. Please help AATCC publicly celebrate these efforts and accomplishments
by submitting an award or officer nomination by March 31.
Best regards,

Diana A. Wyman
Executive Vice-President

SUBMIT YOUR NOMINATIONS!
Award Nominations:Due: March 31 | www.aatcc.org/awards

Board Nominations:Due: March 31 | www.aatcc.org/bod

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 3

NEW MEMBERSINDIVIDUAL MEMBERSSTUDENT MEMBERS

Estefany Arias-Reveles, Ruggable

Elxavier Caldwell, Marisa Fisher, 		Mahabub Rahman

Sirens Ciou, Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI)

Clemson University:

Aaron Amstutz, NFW

Waqas Rahim
Chughtai, Rainbow Inks (Pvt.) Ltd.
New
Members

Central Michigan University:

Candace Davidow, Under Armour

Marcus Murdoch

Anne Dieu, American River College

Georgia Institute of Technology:

Shokoofeh Ghasemi, NFW

Helen Liu

Junko Harris, Eddie Bauer

Iowa State University:

Kamryn Henderson, VS & Co.

Raquel Rosburg

Syed Hussain, Z2 Jeans Co.

ITESO (Universidad Jesuita de Guadalajara):

Muhammad Shaukat Iqbal, Tauseef Enterprises
Socks Division Faisalabad
Hafsa Khan, Nishat Chunian Ltd. Dyeing &Printing Division
Xinmin Li, Shanghai Shenda lmport & Export Co., Ltd.
Loretta McKillip, Lands’ End Inc.
Muhammad Naeem, SGS Pakistan
Vicente P Neto, Soccer Field Gramados 		
Sinteticos LTDA
Arun Patra, UP Textile Technology Institute, Kanpur
Rebecca Pogoreski, Wacker Chemical Co.
Abdul Rauf, Rainbow Inks (Pvt.) Ltd.
Lauren Reece, Augusta Sportswear Brands
Saif Rehman, MG ApparelJohn Richmeier, Tarkett USA Inc.
Muhammad Farooq Shahid, Rainbow Inks (Pvt.) Ltd.
Trisha Sinay, Ruggable
Shanmuga Sundaram, TUV Rheinland India Pvt. Ltd.
George Tamas, NFW
Joseph White, Tencate Protective Fabrics

4 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

Hector Lopez

North Carolina State University, 			
Wilson College of Textiles:
Hajara Babayo, Jessica Estrada, Dengyu Luo,
Saviasachi Vaidya

Texas Tech University:
Mizra Mohammad Omar Khyum

University of Delaware:
Abigail Sicher

University of Rhode Island:
Rylan Hastings, Emmy Hernandez, 		Juliana Rodriguez

Utah State University:
Emily Ball

NEW CORPORATE MEMBERSDONGGUAN LVSHENGENVIRONMENTAL PRODUCTS
Dongguan Lvsheng
Environmental Protection
Products Co. Ltd. is a
specialized manufacturer ofchemical fiber elastic fabrics. The
company's integrated production
line of weaving, dyeing, printing,and finishing is equipped with102 warp knitting machines, over
200 weft knitting machines, and82 double-sided machines. The
company has earned customers’
trust through its commitment toquality, reasonable pricing, andefficient service.

NFW

RUGGABLE

NFW is a circularity platform forplastic-free performance materials.
NFW follows three ground rules ineverything they develop: start well,stay clean, end well. While nearly
everything in the built world relies onsome type of plastic that began as
crude oil and that will become plastic
pollution, NFW is establishing a newmaterial reality—all materials should
begin and end as nutrients, ready forthe next growth cycle—true circularity.

Ruggable is a Los Angeles-based,
venture-backed e-commercecompany revolutionizing the market
for residential and commercial rugs.
They have a patented 2-Piece
Rug System which allows removalof the top layer of rugs whichallows washing in a home washingmachine, offering an affordable,
stylish, and convenient solution
for young families, pet owners,
and busy individuals. They’re asmall, entrepreneurial team with
big ambitions.

Their multi-material platform servesa wide range of industries—fromfashion and footwear to automotive
and upholstery. NFW makes global
brands more sustainable, empowering them to create without plastics.

PROQUINAL SAS
As global leaders in
the manufacturing andcommercialization of coated fabrics
and flooring, Proquinal SAS, amember of Spradling Group, has been setting industry standards for over 65
years. The journey began in 1959, and since then, has propelled innovationand design, fueled by a commitment to environmental stewardship andcommunity well-being.
Operating from two certified production facilities strategically located in
Colombia and Costa Rica, the company has various sustainable certifications
that validate expertise and support.
Product sectors include contract, residential, marine, transportation, footwear,
leather goods, protection, apparel, and flooring distributed in over 80 countries.
This success is a testament to their unique blend of sustainable ethos,
extensive industry expertise, design acumen, cutting-edge technologies,
formidable production, and service capacity.

Is your company
an AATCC
Corporate
Member?
Learn more about 		
Corporate Membershiplevels and benefits!
www.aatcc.org/join/#corporate

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 5

UPCOMINGAATCC COMMITTEE 		MEETINGSRESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC, USA
Administrative Committee Meetings:
April 9-12 (virtual-only)
Research Committee Meetings:
May 7-9 (virtual and in-person) New location!
See the inner workings of AATCC conferences,publications, and more at Administrative
Committee meetings. These meetings are all
virtual so you can participate from anywhere, but
you must register in advance.
The AATCC Research Committee meetings
will be held both virtually and in-person.You canbe part of making the global standards used to
identify and evaluate textiles and network withexperts from across the industry. All meetings arefree and most are open to all.
The Spring Research Committee meetings will beheld at a new location—visit the website for details.

www.aatcc.org/admin
www.aatcc.org/research

6 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

AATCC SHOWCASES TEXTILETESTING AT FUNCTIONALFABRIC FAIRPORTLAND, OR, USA
April 16-18
AATCC is looking forward to displaying a showcaseof textile testing equipment at the upcoming
Functional Fabric Fair tradeshow. Visit AATCC at
the show to see all the exciting equipment!

www.aatcc.org/events

New Edition!
Order the 4th edition e-book andreceive the 3rd edition for free!

Scan toOrder

PFAS IN TEXTILES 		CONFERENCECHEMICAL APPLICATIONSINTEREST GROUP MEETING

RALEIGH, NC, USA

VIRTUAL—MEMBERS ONLYMay 2-3

June 18: 10:00 am ET

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)
are everywhere—in the environment and in thenews. Join colleagues from across the industry at
the PFAS Conference on May 2-3, 2024, at theStateView Hotel in Raleigh, NC to learn what thelatest research, technology, and legislation mean
for textiles. View details and register online.

AATCC Chemical Applications Interest Group
Chair Sabyasachi Gaan will host guest Dirk
Hegemann, from the Swiss Federal Laboratories
for Materials Science and Technology, Advanced
Fibers, Empa. They will discuss the options
and limitations of replacing PFAS chemistry intextiles to achieve water and oil repellency. Thisvirtual meeting is free to all AATCC members
who are interested.

www.aatcc.org/pfas2024

www.aatcc.org/membership-events

BE THE FIRST TO KNOW!

Sign up today to receive email updates on AATCC Digital Labs			
and upcoming events.
Visit www.aatcc.org/subscribe and subscribe to “AATCC Events” toreceive notification of AATCC workshops, lectures, and conferences!
March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 7

20 TEXTILE
2 D I S C O V E RY
4 SUMMITTEXTILE DISCOVERY SUMMITSAVANNAH, GA, USA
October 6-8

ONLINE TEST 			
METHOD TRAININGREGISTER YOUR TEAM TODAY!

Don’t miss the opportunity to bring awarenessto your company and share new products at
AATCC’s Textile Discovery Summit taking place
October 6-8, 2024, at the Westin Savannah
Harbor in Savannah, GA! Exciting new eventsand opportunities will be part of the 2024
Summit! To request Exhibitor and Sponsorship
information or secure your spot, please email
Matt Brennan at brennanm@aatcc.org.

www.aatcc.org/summit

IS THERE A TOPIC YOU’D LIKETO LEARN ABOUT?
We want to hear from you! If you have an
idea for a textile-related topic or speaker,
please submit it to Matt Brennan atbrennanm@aatcc.org.

8 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

VirtualThe AATCC technical staff has developed a set of
online training modules for participants to learn:• How key test methods are performed• Best practices for each test method discussed• Identification of testing equipment and its
association with respective test methods• How test results are assessed and scored• How to avoid common issues associated withmethods, results, equipment, and protocol
Modules Include:• Color Vision and Evaluation• Colorfastness• Laundering• Repellency and ResistanceRegister today—AATCC members receive
discounted rates!

www.aatcc.org/learn/#otmt

MEMBER CONNECTION

MEMBER ANNOUNCEMENTS & NEWSCELEBRATING 50 YEARS WITH AATCC
Phil Goodman of Landis, NC, USA, began his textile career in the middle 1960s, working in the local yarn spinning industry during summer breaks from school. Goodman
graduated from North Carolina State University (NCSU) with a BS in Textile Chemistry,and later earned an MBA from the University of North Carolina Greensboro (UNCG).
He began his wet processing career with Corlin Processing Co. before serving in the
NC National Guard and US Army Reserves from 1970-1978. In 1972 he joined BASF
and held several laboratory and technical positions before entering the technical sales
department where he marketed dyestuffs and specialty textile chemicals in Eastern NC and VA. Goodman
later joined Hydrolabs Inc., and in 1991 he joined the start-up US textile chemical joint venture, Boehme
Filatex Inc., (BFI). In 2000, Goodman was named Business Unit Manager for Textile Products worldwide
for the Boehme International office near Munich Germany. BFI sold its business to DyStar in 2006.
Goodman became a member of the Northern Piedmont section of the AATCC in 1974. Traveling foryears for business to over 90 countries, Goodman was a valued AATCC and industry speaker on the
globalization of the textile industry and changes ahead as China entered the WTO. Goodman served on
several AATCC committees, including the Executive Committee on Research (ECR) and served as chairof the large AATCC Garment Wet Processing Conference in Long Beach, CA, USA in 2006.
Goodman retired from the industry at the end of 2008 to his home in the Florida Keys where he lives
with Debby, his wife of 53 years, and their daughter Carey. He has served on numerous volunteer
boards and organizations in the area, currently serving as a Board Chair and a four-term county-wide
elected Commissioner for the Florida Keys Mosquito Control District. He became a volunteer Pollution
Response Specialist for the US Coast Guard Auxiliary and was deployed to the Deepwater Horizon oil
spill in 2010. He enjoys fishing, traveling with his family, politics, and reading AATCC Review.

Obituaries

Walter Victor Walukewicz, 95, of Gaffney, SC,
USA passed away on November 18, 2023. Born
in Patchogue, NY, USA, he moved with hisfamily to South Carolina in 1951 to pursue his
career in textiles, ultimately working at Miliken
and Co. for 52 years. He retired as Head of
the Central Dye Lab in 1993. He was an active
AATCC member from 1948 to 2008 and servedin several leadership positions. Walukewicz
became an Emeritus member and spent a totalof 75 years of membership with AATCC. He
is survived by his wife, Garnette Susan “Sue”
Walukewicz. They celebrated their 77th wedding
anniversary in July 2023.

Joanne Elizabeth Mattiace, of Windham, ME, USA, died in December
2023. Mattiace was a long-time ASTM
member of Committee F15 on Consumer Products, and an active member
in many consumer product subcommittees. Born in 1951 in Providence, RI, USA, Mattiace
was one of five children of her predeceased parents,
Anthony and Anna (Persechino) Mattiace. She attended
the University of Rhode Island and Boston College Law
School. She spent her entire career as a product safetyattorney. She is survived by wife Margaret (Maggie)
Terry; siblings Joyce Davis, Kathleen Kriskewic, Frank
Mattiace, and Angela Kearsch; children Chase, Jessica,
Zach, and Brett; and five grandchildren—Breyhlan,
Addie, Beau, Landon and Elsie. In lieu of flowers, thefamily appreciates contributions to St. Jude’s Hospital
www.stjude.org or Animal Refuge League of Greater
Portland https://arlgp.org/make-a-gift/donate.
March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 9

NEWS BITESAATCC NEWS

Nominate Your 2025-2026 Officers

AATCC is currently accepting nominations foropen positions on its 2025-2026 Board of Directors. As a member-led organization, serving on
the AATCC Board provides a valuable opportunity to guide the direction of the association
while advancing your industry knowledge andprofessional relationships. If you are interested
in nominating yourself or someone else to join
the AATCC leadership, please submit completed
nomination forms by March 31, 2024. This is avolunteer-led commitment invested in shaping thefuture of textile knowledge exchange, research, andtesting standardization.

Last Call For AATCC 			Award Nominations

AATCC presents several prestigious awards eachyear, along with thousands of dollars in honoraria.
Some awards were established to recognize
outstanding achievers in the textile sciences, whose
discoveries influence the world. Others recognize
AATCC members for service to the Associationthat has strengthened and promoted its purposeand mission to the world. Nominate a deserving
colleague, mentor, or protégé to acknowledge hard
work and innovation. Nominations for all awards
are due March 31, 2024. Selected recipients will
be recognized at the AATCC Textile Discovery
Summit October 6-8, 2024.

10 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

NASEM Workshop on 			Reusable Health Care PPE

The National Academies of Sciences,
Engineering, and Medicine (NASEM) hosted
a virtual public workshop March 4-5 on the
topic of increasing the use of reusable healthcare textiles (HCTs) for personal protective
equipment (PPE) used in health caresettings. Technical experts, policy makers,
manufacturers, PPE users in health care, andothers explored the potential benefits andfeasibility of integrating more reusable HCTs
into health care operations. AATCC member
Elizabeth Easter has attended at the requestof the National Institute for Occupational
Safety & Health (NIOSH), based on papers
she has written about reusable medical
gowns. *AATCC standards may be used insome of the testing for these reusable PPE
healthcare products.
*See page 31 for the abstract in the current AATCC Journalof Research on this topic.

CORPORATE MEMBER NEWSIvan Ramirez and Carlos Ortiz Ascoli, representing
Corporate member Colormax, visited the AATCC Technical Center in December. Senior Technical Associate,
Garry Atkinson, and Technical Associate, Carrie Gray,guided them on a tour of the lab and facilities.

Antonio Trampler and Alexander Gruener, from emtec,
will be on site at Texworld NYC together with Chase Tinker
from partner company Technidyne of Industrial Physics, todemonstrate the newly designed TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer in addition to the predecessor model (established forthe tissue paper industry). The new TSA features advanced
measuring capabilities, including thermohaptic determination, friction, drape, an improved method for deformationand springback measurements, and an image of the sample
for optical analysis.
Much like color codes, measured TSA data also function
as a numeric language, allowing independent operators toaccurately match the haptic characteristics of a product. In
addition, the TSA integrates all measured sample data into
a Virtual Haptic Library (cloud-based haptic database),
allowing operators to search for, compare, and reproduce a
product’s haptic traits from anywhere in the world.
Artistic Milliners and Archroma are collaborating to rewrite
the future of denim. Leveraging Archroma’s breakthroughDiresul Evolution Black dyestuff, the partners are promoting
more eco-advanced sulfur black dyeing for denim with a variety of washdown effects and reduced environmental impact.
Diresul Evolution Black delivers outstanding resource savings, using less water and energy and producing less CO2
during dye synthesis. Furthermore, it offers unique shade
and washdown behavior compared to standard black dyes toconsistently create eye-catching aesthetics, especially on dark
black shades with no bronzing effect. It is also laser-friendly.

Is your company an AATCC Corporate Member?
Learn more about Corporate Membership levels and benefits at www.aatcc.org/join/#corporate.

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 11

STUDENTS

GRADUATION CORDSHERMAN AND MYRTLEGOLDSTEIN GRADUATESTUDENT PAPER
COMPETITION

Order Your Cord!
https://members.aatcc.org/store/cords/2855/

Call for Entries
www.aatcc.org/gradpaper

Students—graduating soon? Don’t forget toorder AATCC graduation cords! Display
your dedication to AATCC and the industry
at graduation!

Entries are being sought for the 2024 Herman
and Myrtle Goldstein Graduate Student
Paper Competition. Please see website forcompetition guidelines and deadlines.

STUDENT CHAPTER FUNDING
Applications Due April 1
www.aatcc.org/resources
Is your AATCC student chapter looking for funding for programs, events, or other educational opportunities to enhance the AATCC student chapter experience? Don’t forget to apply for student chapter
funding! AATCC student chapters can receive funding through a refund of 50% of their total student
membership dues. Applications due April 1st.
12 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

Building a future in

textiles!

DonateToday!
For more information, visit www.aatcc.org/foundation
March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 13

FEATURE

Coloration andDyeing Trends
By Juliana Barnes

In Tomorrow, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, anovel by Gabrielle Zevin published in 2022,
Aeran Wantanbe aims to educate one of theprotagonists about the attributes of beautiful
fabrics, specifically, the “Strawberry Thief ”
pattern by William Morris:“A great textile, like the William Morris
Strawberry Thief…isn’t simply design...You haveto understand the fabrics and what they canbear. You have to understand the dyeing process
and how to achieve certain colors and what will
make the color last through the ages…This fabric
is not just a fabric. It’s the story of failure and of
perseverance, of the discipline of a craftsman, ofthe life of an artist.”1

14 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

BIG BUSINESS WITH A BIGENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

Natural and synthetic dyes, water-soluble chemicals that
degrade when exposed to ultraviolet light (UV), andpigments, non-soluble substances that usually remain
stable when subjected to electromagnetic radiation, areused to color and finish not only fabrics like the “Strawberry Thief ” but also paints, plastics, and printing inks.
The dyeing and pigmentation of hard and soft goods,
including textiles, is a fast-growing, multibillion-dollar
business, with the Asia-Pacific market occupying the top
spot in the industry.
Although projections can differ according to the market
research company or publication and data and methodology used, compound annual growth rates averageapproximately 5%. For example, as reported on the Fortune
Business Insights website in April 2022, across the globe, themarket share of dyes and pigments in general is expected
to reach almost US$57B by 2029, an increase of US$16B
from the US$41B recorded in 2022, for a CAGR of 4.9%.2
As an industry, the textile colorant and pigment business is a major contributor to the global economy and,
unfortunately, to global pollution, due to the adverse
effects of chemicals, greenhouse gases, and wastewaters.
In “Advancements in Sustainable Natural Dyes for Textile
Applications: A Review,” which appeared in Moleculeson the National Library of Medicine website on August 8,
2023, the authors identified dyeing and finishing as the“hotspot in the textile supply chain,” due to the electricaland heat energy consumed and the chemicals, dyes, andquantities of wastewater discharged during the process.3

Dyes bought and sold in Asia and Europe during themedieval era (476-1450 CE)—including an invertebrate-based colorant obtained from the cochineal
insect, autumn- and saffron-tinged crocus, and organic
indigo—were brighter in appearance and more resistantto fading. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, natural dyes used in both Europe and the New
World, where South American advancements in textile
coloration served as an inspiration to European artisans, remained the primary method for dyeing textiles
throughout most of the Industrial Revolution.4, 5
Until the mid-nineteenth century, the color purple
was extracted from sea snails, a process dating back to1570 BCE—until William Henry Perkin, an English
chemist, discovered, entirely by chance, one of the firstman-made dyes: mauveine, a buttery deposit developed
from coal tar.6 Fast-forward to the twenty-first century,
where the two main types of dyes used in the textile
industry include color-fast, cost-effective synthetic and,
regrettably, carcinogenic azos, and economical, high-performing, natural anthraquinones, as noted in an article
released on the National Library of Medicine website on
June 22, 2021.7
Let's look at some twenty-first-century coloration anddyeing trends in the textile industry, including dyes andpigments based on the natural materials used by earlyartisans thousands of years ago.

IMAGE: STOCK PHOTO.

William Morris’s repeating Strawberry Thief pattern was a trendsetterin that it pioneered the discharge printing of organic alizarin and weld
colorants on a pre-dyed ground.

In “The History of Textile Dyes,” an article posted on
the Faribault Mill website on September 9, 2022, early
humans began coloring fibers during the Neolithic
period (approximately 10,000-2200 BCE). Fixatives, ormordants, included fruit-based vinegars and mineralsalts, for instance, alum stone. Primitive dyes derived
from plant matter and tree bark, as evidenced by
5,000-year-old samples discovered in China, had a
reddish hue and were prone to fading.

(PUBLIC DOMAIN).

I M A G E : PAT T E R N B Y W I L L I A M M O R R I S

But it wasn’t always this way. The first dyes and pigments
used to color clothes and fabrics were created from natural resources and had a minimal impact on the planet.

INSECTS, PLANTS, 		
AND SNAILS

Indigo has been used to dye textiles for more than 5,000 years.

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 15

As noted on the huue website, “Dyeing is the dirtiest
part of denim production.” To remedy the situation, thecompany uses bioengineering technology to manufacture
its colorants, whereby sugar-consuming microorganisms
replicate the same enzymatic processes found in Mother
Nature while zeroing out the need for toxic chemicals
like cyanide, formaldehyde, and fossil fuels. Biosynthetic
indigo jeans are “greener” not only in relation to what
they don’t use but also in terms of what they do use: current, rather than new, manufacturing equipment.8
Carbon black, like indigo, is another “dirty dye” usedin the textile industry; extracted from coal and otherforms of tar and heavy crude oil, it’s an eco-harmful
and potentially carcinogenic pigment. However, Living
Ink Technologies, a biomaterials company in Berthoud,
Colorado, USA, has developed an algae-based ink thatcan be used on cotton and synthetic fabrics with existing
technology. A carbon-negative, fade-resistant byproduct,
Algae Ink—nearly identical in color to oil- or tar-basedcarbon black—has been embraced by Nike Inc., Marmot,
and Vollebak.9, 10

Werewool, a startup in New York, NY, USA, co-founded
entirely by women, including alumni of the Fashion
Institute of Technology (FIT), uses biotechnology andengineered proteins to create biopolymer-based fibers
gleaned from agricultural waste, an earth-friendly alternative to petroleum-based filaments. The fibers, whosecolor and elasticity is based on the engineered proteins’spiral structure and the way they respond to light, arebiodegradable and can be produced without the needfor chemical-based, water-polluting dyeing and finishing processes. As stated on the company’s website, they
hope to have a Werewool fiber-based garment prototype
developed as early as 2026.11,12

BACTERIA AND GMOS
While bacteria usually get a bad rap, as reported by the
Vienna Textile Lab in Wein, Austria, the benefits ofusing microbes to dye natural and synthetic textiles are
grounded in what the process doesn’t require: agriculturallands, crude oils, or mineral ores. Carbon dioxide emissions are nearly negligible, and bacterial stem cells can behoused in labs and reproduced as needed at later dates.13
Industry innovators include Colorifix, Faber Futures, andthe ongoing Living Color bionic research initiative, which
focuses on the application of biodegradable, non-toxic
pigments produced by certain bacteria and a streamlined

IMAGES COURTESY OF SCOTT FULBRIGHT OF LIVING

According to Scott Fulbright, chief executive officer(CEO) and co-founder of Living Ink, the product“includes applications [ranging] from textile dyeing,
screen-printing ink, packaging, and paints…and several
projects with well-known brands…launching in
2024-2026.” Because the company can “calculate thecarbon savings by using Algae Ink and pigment products,[we] expect to see a big demand as many companies arefacing investor, government, and consumer [pressure]to improve sustainability initiatives.”

Additionally, Living Ink Technologies has been focusing
on “a lot of denim-coating projects” and dope-dyeing,a process that Fulbright noted was “close to being fully
developed and…launched with brands.” The company isalso pursuing garment-dyed initiatives, with “more work
to be done as we scale.”

INK TECHNOLOGIES.

MOTHER NATURE’S DYES

The Clearas photobioreactor is used to harvest algae from wastewater (left). The Living Ink Technologies Earthrise Algae Farm allows forlarge-scale growing of these eukaryotic organisms (right).

16 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

Colorifix Ltd., a startup company established in 2016
in the United Kingdom, pioneered the use of biologicalapproaches to apply colorants to fabrics, thereby minimizing the impact of the dyeing and finishing processeson the environment. Based on the pigments found innature—for example, those originating with microbes—
the company uses digital deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)sequencing technology to identify and translate anorganism’s chromosomal code with the end purpose ofcreating a genetically modified organism (GMO). Following fermentation on hosts like secondary products
derived from plants, sugars, yeasts, and other renewable
feedstocks, these GMOs produce a liquid colorant thatcan be paired with existing dye technologies, a processthat takes no more than a day or two.15
Faber Futures, a design company in London, England,
founded by Natsai Audrey Chieza, “live dyes” silk with
Streptomyces coelicolor, an easy-to-grow, non-toxic bacteria that doesn’t require a fixative. The process, which uses
far less water than required for conventional methodologies—approximately 500 times less—involves applying

the cultured microorganisms to the surface of the fabricand giving them time to replicate. Over the course of afew days, and depending on the pH level of their environment, the polyketide antibiotics released throughthe Streptomyces coelicolor cell walls act as permanentcolorants, either in a patterned or uniform manner using
primary and secondary hues, including those in the blue,
red, pink, and purple families.16

IMAGE: PUBLIC DOMAIN.

production process—typically three days—where temperatures and water usage are kept to a minimum.14

Microscopic slide culture of Streptomyces Streptomyces coelicolor, a derivativeof the genus Streptomyces (shown above) and the phylum Actinbacteria,
are multicellular microorganisms with practical applications in thepharmaceutical and, more recently, the textile industries.

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 17

In dope-dyeing, also known as solution- or
spin-dyeing, the “dope” is the liquified polymer that forms a continuous filament after
being processed through an extruder andmelted, following which the cooled strands
can be spun and/or textured. The key difference between conventional wet-processedand dope-dyed textiles is that the former
entails submerging knitted or woven fabrics
in a solution of dye and water and then subjecting them
to a chemical wash, while the latter involves dyeing thefibers before they’ve been intertwined, thereby eliminating the need for any further treatments post-process.
Benefits associated with this environmentally friendly
approach include consistency of color, colorfastness, andfade resistance, as the fiber, and not just the surface of thefabric, has been dyed.17
Industry leaders include Avient Corp., headquarteredin Avon Lake, OH, USA, which manufactures, among
other products, engineered and synthetic technicalfibers. In partnership with Coloro Color Intelligence
Solutions, home to a 1.6M-color coding system thatmimics the decrypting abilities of the human eye, thecompany plans to make approximately 225 hues in thelatter’s palette available for dope-dyeing, as announcedin October 2023. As little to no water is required
to combine the colorant and polymer pellets when
extruding and melting, little to no water is wasted, which
can help fashion brands dye fabrics more efficiently andmeet their sustainability goals.18,19
In partnership with Bluesign Technologies in Switzerland, a leading industry problem-solver, e.dye Ltd. inHong Kong hopes to take dope dyeing to the next level byaddressing the challenges associated with high minimum
orders that, in turn, affect the number of colors available.
According to George Yang at e.dye Ltd., “After years ofinnovation, e.dye developed…its Waterless Color System(WCS), which saves 65% to 85% water, 12% CO2 emissions, and 90% harmful chemicals [when] compared to
traditional water-based dyeing processes…and extends
the life cycle of clothing due to its superior color fastness.” Additionally, “e.dye [offers] a series of smart colors
and smart fabrics to solve the common problem of highminimum order quantity (MOQ) or minimum color
quantity (MCQ),” a critical industry challenge.
As such, “Given its environmentally friendly nature [and]sustainable attributes widely recognized by the industry,
dope dyeing [will be] a vital component in the Bluesign
System.” In turn “Bluesign will provide multi-dimensional
18 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

I M A G E C O U R T E S Y O F E . D Y E LT D .

DOPE DYEING

e.dye Ltd. president George Yang (second from left) and Bluesign CEO
Daniel Rüfenacht (third from left) at the Internationale Fachmesse fürSportartikel und Sportmode ISPO Munich AW 2023 (November)verification services for e.dye, expanding the brandcommunity and fostering a stronger partnership among
stakeholders, contributing collaboratively to the industry’s
sustainable future.”
In response to a question about how e.dye Ltd.’s colormatching system works and how it might evolve in the
future, Yang notes that their “Waterless Color System
performed intelligent calculations through thousands of
dope-dyed color spinning to obtain a formula-prediction
algorithm [for] polyester production,” allowing thecompany to produce a fabric sample “through the manufacturing of masterbatch, dope-dyed yarns and textiles
within one day once the customer provides us with avirtual color palette.” In the future, e.dye Ltd. hopes tointegrate artificial intelligence (AI) color-matching andtheir Waterless Color System technology with natural
fibers and nylon.

ENZYMATIC PROCESSESThe enzymatic processes that occur in living cells
throughout the natural world are becoming ever more
popular as a means for biopolishing (pre- or post-dyeing
stage), bioscouring, bleaching, and desizing fabrics, withbioscouring making clothing and piece goods that are
more receptive to color and its consistent distribution.
Between 2022 and 2030, the market for textile enzymes
is expected to grow by 5.3% (CAGR) from US$456M
to US$694.9M, as reported in a market analysis report
released by Grand View Research in 2023.20
Key advantages of enzymes during wet-processing
include higher-quality fabrics and garments thattake less time to produce while conserving energy
and water. As biodegradable alternatives to harmful
chemical pollutants, enzymes can function at a moreor less neutral pH value (5.5-6.5) in a low-temperatureenvironment (30-60 °C), acting only on the designatedsubstrate or surface and not on the support fabric,
thereby maintaining its strength.21

IMAGES: PUBLIC DOMAIN

Catalase (left) and laccase (right) enzymes are used to bleach fabrics inthe textile industry.

Name of Function andEnzyme Purpose

Role in the Coloration
and Dyeing Process

AmylaseDesizing(removal of starch)

Enhances dyeability
and promotes
fabric/yarn strength

Catalase

Bleaching of fabrics

Assists in achieving
the desired color byremoving all traces ofhydrogen peroxide

Cellulase

Biopolishing (removalof fuzz and pills) andbioscouring (removalof non-cellulosic
polysaccharides) fromraw cotton and finishingof denim

Promotes colorfastness
and durability of cottonand manmade cellulosic
fibers (MMCF)

LaccaseBleaching of fabrics

Assists in achieving desiredcolor by removing all tracesof hydrogen peroxide

Pectinase

Bioscouring (removalof non-cellulosic
polysaccharides) fromraw cotton and finishingof denim

Prepares cotton fabrics
for dyeing under
milder conditions

PLASMA-INDUCED 		OZONE TREATMENTS

Plasma-induced ozone treatments can be used to:• Apply protective and surface coatings to smart textiles.
•

Enhance the wettability of fibers before dyeing.

•

Fade cotton fabrics without compromising their
physical properties.

•

Promote absorption and/or colorfastness ofnatural dyes on silks using nitrogen and oxygenor absorption of dyes by nonwovens made frompolyester or viscose.

For instance, protective and hydrophobic surface
coatings can help to promote durability and decrease
the absorption of liquids, respectively. The latter is
especially important in the manufacture of the gloves
and smocks used in healthcare, increasing theirresistance to bacterial and non-sterile substances
during surgery.22
Practical applications of plasma-based textile
treatments also include the intentional fadingof fabrics and garments using reactive oxygen, acomplex, controlled surface treatment previously
achieved chemically or mechanically. As reported in
an article in the Journal of Natural Fibers publishedin September 2023, the Jeanologia G2 industrial
ozone plasma machine ionizes oxygen molecules by
way of electrical currents, converting any leftoverozone plasma into purified air before its return trip
to the atmosphere.23
Controls essential to the plasma-induced fading
process include the air concentration, chemical
make-up and moisture content of the fabric, durationof treatment, and type of gas used. As noted in thearticle, this approach resulted in “a savings of 62% ofenergy (kW/h), 67% of water, 85% of chemicals andreduces the amount of time required for production
by 85%.”23

RECYCLED DYES

Just as algae and engineered proteins can be collectedfrom algae-based byproducts and agricultural
waste, Archroma, a specialty chemical company in
Switzerland, has developed a 5-color, patent-pending
method for converting cellulosic and polyamide
textile waste into colorants for dyeing and printing.
The FiberColors process, which compares favorably
to sulfur-based products in terms of its colorfastness,
is appropriate for cellulosic-based fabrics orpolymer-based synthetics like nylon. Additionally,
Archroma’s 6-hue EarthColors palette, sourced fromfood and herbal waste such as almond shells, beets,and saw palmetto, has been used by major brands
like Esprit, Patagonia, Ralph Lauren, and Ugg to dye
accessories or apparel products.24, 25
Other companies aiming for eco-color solutions in the
textile industry include:• DyeRecycle, an innovative start-up in London,
England, that uses green chemistry to recycle
the colorants removed from fibrous waste, avirtually chemical-free and water-saving process(over 65%) per redyed garment.26

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 19

We aRe SpinDye, headquartered in Stockholm,
Sweden, combines and melts color and polyethylene
terephthalate (rPET) pellets from recycled polyester
clothing made from those ubiquitous plastic waterbottles into colored filaments for spinning andtexturing, as mentioned in the previously discussed
dope-dyeing process. 27•

The Recycrom system developed by Officina39 in
Biella, Italy, relies on a chemical suspension rather
than a solution to transform clothing and textile
waste into powdered pigments that can be exhaustdyed, printed, or otherwise applied to cotton andwool or nylon.28

Michela Masiero from Officina39 explained how Reycrom’s suspension-based dyeing process differs from asolution-based process:“Recycrom dyes are a full range of powdered pigments
extracted from 100 percent recycled used clothing,fibrous materials, and textile scraps obtained througha state-of-the-art upcycling process. Recycrom is
insoluble in water but can be used in dyeing processes
as a pigment. It needs a cationizing pretreatment before
proceeding to the dyeing stage.”
Along with the aforementioned fabrics, “Recycrom canalso be used to dye Tencel viscose and linen. Right now,
the only limitation is polyester,” she said. However, “As
the world is focusing on natural fibers, rather than implementing fiber types, we would like to push ourselves tooptimize continuous processes on fabric.”
20 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

I M A G E C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H E L A M A S I E R O AT O F F I C I N A 3 9 .

•I M A G E C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H E L A M A S I E R O AT O F F I C I N A 3 9 .

G R A P H I C C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H E L A M A S I E R O AT O F F I C I N A 3 9 .

Officina39’s Recycrom suspension-based technology is based on theupcycling of textile waste.

The Recycrom recycled pigmentation process can be used to color cotton,linen, nylon, Tencel viscose, and wool.

When asked how the company saw their trademarked
system evolving over the next five years, Masiero noted
that, “The goal in the coming years will be to make
Recycrom suitable for all kinds of processes, so that it canreplace conventional dyes for all intents and purposes.”

OTHER LOW-WATER TECH
AirDye technology, developed by the Debs Corp., acentury-old, diversified business in Osaka, Japan, uses
custom-manufactured paper and minimal equipment—
just one machine is required—to dye and print fabric
by way of heat and pressure, an approach not unlike
conventional thermal printing. As the name suggests, thisinnovative method relies on air—instead of water—whencoloring fabrics, conserving as much as 45 gallons (or170 liters) of water per garment, for an overall savingsof 95% when compared to standard dyeing practices.
Additionally, the patent-pending computer software
allows for accurate and unlimited color matching, while
the double-sided, simultaneous printing process achieves
deeper dye penetration than typically attained with heattransfer (thermal) and jet printing for fabrics ranging
from delicate sheers to stretchable synthetics.29
Similarly, DyeCoo in Hoofddorp, the Netherlands, usespressurized, reclaimed carbon dioxide, rather than water,
as a dyeing medium and, as stated on the company’s website, “100% pure dyes” suitable for synthetics, especiallypolyester. Advantages associated with this technology
include carbon dioxide’s high degree of fluidity, whichallows for deep penetration and uniform application ofcolorants. Driving this closed-loop, water-free process isthe 130-ton DyeOx, whose three steel tanks are capableof handling almost 9,000 pounds (4,000 kilograms) of
dye per day.30, 31
Endeavor, developed by Alchemie Technology, in
Cambridge, England, is another nearly waterless-dyeing
application, with less than one cup of water needed tocolor one synthetic garment, such as a shirt. Unique tothis deep-dye, single-machine process is the combinationof inkjet printing and spray technology, whereby fabrics
conveyed through Endeavor by way of a series ofprocessing rollers are first dyed on one side and then on
the reverse.32

TRACKING NEW TRENDS
Challenges to green, sustainable coloration and dyeing
trends include not only costs but also commercializationand those related to MCQs and MOQs. And, as
Watanabe says in Tomorrow, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow,
while discussing the Strawberry Thief design, “If you
make a mistake, you may have to begin again…[William
Morris] must have had to start over many times to get
the colors right.” That said, when you do get the color
right, the “fabric is not just a fabric.”33
March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 21

References
1.
2.
3.

4.

5.
6.
7.

8.
9.
10.
11.

12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.

20.

Gabrielle Zevin, Tomorrow, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, Knopf
Doubleday, New York, New York, July 5, 2022.
“Paints & Coatings/Dyes & Pigments Market, Fortune BusinessInsights, April 2022, https://www.fortunebusinessinsights.com/
dyes-pigments-market-102333.
Barbara Pizzicato, Severaina Pacifico, and Diana Cayuela,“Advancements in Sustainable Natural Dyes for Textile
Applications: A Review,” Molecules, 28(16): 5954, Aug. 8, 2023,
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10458907/.
Brahms Mount, “The History of Textile Dyes,” Faribault Mill,
Sept. 9, 2022, https://www.faribaultmill.com/blogs/the-thread/the-history-of-textile-dyes#:~:text=Archaeologists%2have%20
even%20found%20evidence,beginning%20about%20
5%2C000%20years%20ago.
“GW Researcher Identifies Oldest Textile Dyed Indigo,” GW
Today, September 14, 2016, https://gwtoday.gwu.edu/gwresearcher-identifies-oldest-textile-dyed-indigo.
“Making Color,” Smithsonian Libraries, November 13, 2022,
https://library.si.edu/exhibition/color-in-a-new-light/making.
Leidy D. Ardila-Leal, et al., “A Brief History of Colour, theEnvironmental Impact of Synthetic Dyes and Removal by Using
Laccases,” National Library of Medicine, June 22, 2021,
DOI: 10.3390/molecules26133813.
huue., 2020, https://www.huue.bio/#:~:text=Instead%20of%20
using%20toxic%20chemicals,sugar%20to%20enzymatically%20
produce%20dye.
“Frequently Asked Questions,” Living Ink Technologies,” Dec. 8,2023, https://livingink.co/frequently-asked-questions.
“In the News,” Living Ink Technologies,” Dec. 8, 2023,
https://www.livingink.co/news.
“Werewool Wins Competition Seeking Solutions to Microplastic
Pollution,” FIT Newsroom, April 18, 2022, https://news.fitnyc.
edu/2022/04/18/werewool-wins-competition-to-eliminatemicroplastics/.
“FAQs,” Werewool, Dec. 8, 2023, https://www.werewool.bio/.
“About Us,” Vienna Textile Lab, Dec. 1, 2023, 		
https://www.viennatextilelab.at/about-us/.
“Project Scope: Dyeing Textiles with Bacteria,” Kukka, Dec. 1, 2023,
https://www.kukka.nl/portfolio/living-colour/.
Colorifix, “How It Works” and “our Story,” colorifix.co, November
28, 2003, https://colorifix.com/colorifix-solutions/.
Katrina Orsini, “Growing Bacteria, Creating Color,”
Atlas of the Future, March 31, 2021, 			
https://atlasofthefuture.org/project/faber-futures/.
“What Is Dope-Dyed Fabric?,” Erez Technical Textiles, June 29,2023, https://erez-therm.com/dope-dyed-fabric/.
“Avient Technologies,” Avient, Dec. 1, 2023, 		
https://www.avient.com/products.
“Avient and Coloro Collaborate to Offer Sustainable Fiber
Colorants for Dope Dyeing to the Global Fashion Textile
Industry,” Avient, Oct. 31, 2023, https://www.avient.com/
news/avient-and-coloro-collaborate-offer-sustainable-fibercolorants-dope-dyeing-global-fashion-textile-industry.

21.

22.

23.

24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.

“Textile Enzymes Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report
By Source (Animal Tissues, Micro-organisms, Plants), By Type
(Amylases, Cellulase), By Application (De-sizing), By Region,
And Segment Forecasts, 2022-2030,” Grand View Research,
Dec. 27, 2023, https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industryanalysis/textile-enzymes-market-report#.
“Application of Enzymes in (the) Textile Industry,” Creative
Enzymes, Dec. 26, 2023, https://www.creative-enzymes.
com/resource/application-of-enzymes-in-textileindustry_62.html#:~:text=Enzymes%2C%20such%20as%20
cellulases%2C%20catalase,bleaching%20textiles%20and%20
degrading%20lignin.
“Plasma Treatment of Textiles,” Thierry, Dec. 26, 2023,
https://www.thierry-corp.com/plasma-knowledgebase/plasmatreatment-of-textiles#:~:text=Plasma%20treatment%20of%20
textiles%20is,growing%20function%20of%20plasma%20
technology.
Senbiao Liu, Yaohui Keane Liu, Kwan-Yu Chris Lo, and Chi
Wai Kan, “Analyzing the Effects of Plasma Treatment
Process Parameters on Fading of Cotton Fabrics Dyed with
Two-Color Mix Dyes Using Bayesian Regulated Neural
Networks (BRNNs),” Journal of Natural Fibers, Sept. 24, 2023,
20:2, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2023.2259101.
“FiberColors: Upcycling Textile Waste into Beautiful Colors,”
Archroma, 2024, https://www.archroma.com/innovations/fibercolors-by-archroma.
“EarthColors, a New Method of Creating Warm Shades fromNature,” Archroma.com, 2024, https://www.archroma.com/
innovations/earth-colors-by-archroma.
“We Give Dyes and Fibers a Second Chance,” DyeRecycle, Dec. 9,2023, https://www.dyerecycle.com/.
“Our Coloring Process,” We aRe SpinDye, Dec. 9, 2023,
https://www.spindye.com/we-are-spindye-coloring-process/.
“Recycrom – Sustainable Dyeing Solution Using 100% Recycled
Clothing,” ChemSec Marketplace, Dec. 9, 2023, 		
https://marketplace.chemsec.org/Alternative/RECYCROM-239.
“AirDye: Waterless Printing and Dyeing,” Debs Corporation, Dec.
11, 2023, https://debscorp.com/textiles/airdye/.
“The DyeOx,” DyeCoo, 2022, https://dyecoo.com/the-dyeox/.
“Fabric/Color,” DyeCoo, 2022, https://dyecoo.com/fabric-colour/.
“Waterless, Low-Energy Textile Dyeing,” Textile Technology, Jan.
6, 2023, https://www.textiletechnology.net/technology/news/
alchemie-waterless-low-energy-textile-dyeing-33363.
Gabrielle Zevin, Tomorrow, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow.

Juliana Barnes, is a graduate of the Fashion Instituteof Technology's textile design program with aconcentration in woven design. She researches andwrites for a newswire service as well as edits blogs.
Contact her at https://linkedin.com/in/julianabarnes23

Disclaimer: Responsibility for opinions expressed in this article is that of the author and quoted persons, not of AATCC. Mention of any trade name or proprietary product in AATCC
Review does not constitute a guarantee or warranty of the product by AATCC and does not imply its approval to the exclusion of other products that may also be suitable.

22 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

Check Your Test Results.
AATCC Proficiency Testing Programs
PTP1: COLOR EVALUATION
PTP2: FIBER ANALYSIS
PTP3: APPEARANCE AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
PTP4: ANTIBACTERIAL PROPERTIESPTP5: RESISTANCE AND REPELLENCY
PTP6: COLORFASTNESSPTP7: MOISTURE MANAGEMENT

www.aatcc.org/ptp

TECHNICAL INSIGHTSTHE SECOND C: 						A Higher Class of Problem
By Keith Hoover

The November 2023 AATCC Concept 2 Consumer(C2C) Interest Group meeting featured an online
discussion of “color communication throughout the
supply chain,” including participants from Natific,
Under Armour, Swisstex Direct LLC, and VF Corp.
Approximately 75 people joined the call to hear about
how apparel brands and their supply chains manage
color. While much of the discussion centered aroundthe lab dipping process, panelist Brendon Roddy,
Manager of Color and Print Operations at Under
Armour, provided an overview of Under Armour’s(UA) experience with the Color Accreditation
Program (CAP) that has been laid out here in the
Primum Mobile series of articles. (See Articles from
"The Second C" series list on p. 28.)PROVING THE CAP
In 2024, Under Armour marks its twelfth year in
Natific’s CAP. In that time, the color development
process changed from conventional lab dipping to oneof data acquisition and analytics. Color match requests
are now digitally transmitted to CAP mills that, inturn, confirm the matchability of each standard (without sending lab dips) and subsequently upload spectral
data for each production lot to the ColorWarehouse.
The immediate result of this change was a faster color
process and improved production color quality.
But wait, there’s more.
In 2022, Under Armour issued their “Sustainability
Impact Report”1 outlining how the company wasaddressing these concerns. Figure 1 highlights UA taking credit for the kill with CAP. They pointed out that
CAP impacted more than just an internal process, having “a positive impact reaching beyond UA products.”

24 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

Figure 1: Making a difference—an excerpt from Under Armour’s
2021 Sustainability & Impact Report.

LIFE AFTER LAB DIPPING
Okay, let’s say the quiet part out loud. “But, if we get rid oflab dipping, won’t I lose my job?” It depends. If your only
skill is looking at a little scrap of fabric and then typing,“Rejected—too bubble-gummy. Make it 20% moreromantic and stay in the red quadrant,” then yes, you will
be fired and never work in the industry again. Ever.
But if you understand how managing color data canprovide insight into overall product quality and process
efficiency, then there is a future for you in data analytics(and not just at your present company). As you lookaround and see new rounds of lay-off ’s in the apparelsector, it should be clear that brands will retain associates
who add strategic value over those who exercise
mindless tasks. Color is important. Lab dips (and theirhandlers) are not.
So, what’s a lab dipper to do in this brave new world?
UA’s Brendan Roddy laid it out in the C2C presentation.
“We have pivoted to address a higher class of problem.”
Similarly, Marielle Newman, director of Color and Print
at UA, stated in a recent interview, “We used to be ateam of three who spent all day either in the lightbox or
sending emails. Now we can be more impactful acrossbusiness, working on a ‘higher class of problem.’“2Clearly the company that makes all athletes better doesso by solving higher classes of problems.3

I HAVE A PROBLEM—WHAT ARE
YOU GOING TO DO ABOUT IT?
What are some of those “new and improved” problems?
Well, all processes require clear specifications.
Choosing the right color specification is the first andmost important challenge for a designer. There is very
little value in having the perfect match to an ugly
color. Digitizing that color is the next step so that the
specification can be communicated throughout theprocess. And identifying everyone that needs accessto the color specification will bring real value. So, let’s
identify the phases and conventional processes—outsideof lab dipping—that a color team coming out of a lab
dip recovery program can tackle.

Challenge #1—Color Exploration

What is the best way to explore color that is not
limited to “found objects” (like old garment swatches)or pre-defined sets of commercial colors (that anyone
can use)?

Color exploration is a critical part of the design
process—it enables the designer to attach a physicalspecification to what is in the “mind’s eye.”
Although color exploration is arguably the most critical phase of product design, there has been little recent
innovation to support it. Datacolor Envision has its
roots in the 1990s product “ImageMaster” that displayed“accurate” color on old cathode ray tubes. Archroma
and CSI launched certified color standards backed byspectral data between 2001 and 2003. Pantone converted
from TC’s to TCX’s in 2010. Natific launched the CAP
in 2007 and the VooDoo feasibility service in 2016. Not
much of anything has happened in color technologicalinnovation in the last decade. Consequently, brands still
rely on the same resources and process that they have fornearly 75 years.

Physical Color Libraries
Several companies provide collections of pre-selectedcolor swatches aimed at design-related companies. These
color libraries are in widespread use. They are set up
like boxes of crayons, albeit very big boxes of crayons.
They range in size from roughly 2,000 to 5,000 colors.
Approximately 1,900,000 distinguishable colors4 can becreated on textiles, so these libraries are limited to representing a very small subset of all color choices. Whatcolors have been left out of these libraries? It is a runningjoke among color providers that, if a color library has
5,000 colors, a designer will tell you that it needs 5,001.
In addition to their limited selections, color libraries areconstrained by organization. All are organized by majorgroupings like red, green, yellow, and blue, but beyond
that, several approaches are in use. However, all physicallibrary displays are organized on two-dimensional flat
surfaces, whether on book pages or on wall displays. Yet,color has three dimensions—hue, lightness, and chromaticity. So, systems that transpose these three attributes
into an X-Y axis further undercut unfettered access tocolors in the library.

This textile series will share technical insights
and wisdom of AATCC members. The "Second C"
series will focus on color. If you wish to contribute
your own technical insights on topics of interest
to AATCC members, contact Communications
Director, Maria Thiry; thirym@aatcc.org.

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 25

The perceived color of any physical swatch is dependent
on the light source under which it is viewed. However,few design studios are equipped with proper lighting. And “portable” color library books compound thisproblem since they are likely to be viewed under multiple lights in many locations. Few color standards areengineered to account for color inconstancy, so colors
selected from physical color libraries may end up being“wrong” when viewed under different lighting conditions.
And finally, it is said that color perception is a psychophysical phenomenon (heavy on the “psycho”), thus
making color selection a psychological process. First,
color plays a big role in making a new design attractive
to the merchant (so that it gets added to the line) andcustomer (so that it is purchased). Each color must be“just right”—and different than colors that other people
are using. So, relying on these commercial collectionsof colors that were chosen by someone else (ostensibly
someone with far less aesthetic vision than the designer
in search of color) is an anathema to a truly talented
designer. Equality might be a good concept, but design isa selective profession driven by the presence of talent—
not everyone grows up to be a designer.

Onscreen Digital Color Libraries
Some physical color library providers license their product to be viewed onscreen in various software programs

26 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

(or at least they used to). This provides a convenient
way for graphic artists to set up color palettes for design.
However, as a means for exploring color—finding that
perfect shade—onscreen color presents the same shortcomings and limitations as its physical counterparts.
Onscreen color lays down several additional obstacles
for color exploration. First, unlike looking at a swatch(that shows color by absorbing light), onscreen color isliterally looking at the color of light emitted from a computer monitor. A computer monitor emits light much
like a light bulb. Fabric swatches do not. So, regardlessof color accuracy, there is an appearance difference
between color on a monitor and on a physical swatch.
This is referred to as “media-difference.”
There are many specific settings that control onscreen
color. For instance, there are several models for RGB (thedigital building blocks for onscreen color). Each modelis capable of displaying a different gamut, or range of colors, based on the intended output. The gamut of colors
that can be displayed via typical computers connected tothe internet is much smaller than what is achievable ona high-grade monitor. The RGB values for a given color
in the sRGB model are different than the values for thesame color in the Adobe 1998 model. Other color models like L*a*b* describe a color under a specific light. The
L*a*b* values of color defined in D65 are not the same as
the values in Illuminant A.

And then, there’s monitor calibration. We have all seen
how color appears different from TV to TV in a big box
store. Unless periodic maintenance is done to calibrate
the screen, colors will be inaccurate. So, unless all of thetechnical set-up requirements are met, onscreen color
is imprecise.
And finally, there is appearance. We have already pointed
out that the appearance of color emitted from a light differs from the color of a piece of fabric. Texture is anotherkind of appearance, as are sheen and gloss. The surface
properties of materials affect our perception of a basecolor. The effect of textural appearance can be readily
seen on physical swatches. However, it is not so simple todisplay on a computer screen. Simultaneously modelingcolor and appearance in a computer program is complex—the type of work done in expensive CGI programs.

Challenge #2—Color Specification

What is the best way to specify color across theorganization—product development, packaging,marketing, and eCommerce?
Color specification follows color exploration and occurs
during product development. It follows many paths.
Most downstream product color problems can be traced
back to improperly defining or documenting the colors
selected by the designer during color exploration.

Product Color Development Confusion
Most product development processes lack the means
to define a clear color specification at the start of thedesign process. Although a designer might have foundthe “perfect color,” it is up to the CAD and DPC teams
to translate that inspiration into the software used tocreate designs. Interpretations of the original swatch
color are created through various attempts to matchthe color onscreen or with a paper printer. Color data
imported from licensed digital color palettes might not
be compatible with the CAD software settings, thus notmatching the originally selected color. In either case,
CAD users must try to set or “fix” the match in thesoftware. This is likely to happen several times by different
users, so the original “perfect color” devolves into several
competing versions. By the end of the development
process, it is unclear just what the standard is.

eComm Color
Online retailing is a large part of an omnichannel
strategy. Unlike styling products on mannequinsin the store, setting up products on a web page is a
product creation process unto itself executed by either
a separate part of the company or an outside agency.
Traditionally, this involved procuring product samples
early, photographing them (either on or off models), andediting/compositing the images for various platforms
and media. You would think that, since so much timeand effort went into product development by thedesign team, there would be a seamless data flow to theMarketing/eComm creative team (MECT). For the mostpart, you would be wrong.
MECT spends considerable resources color correcting
images. Whether or not the product samples are color
correct (many are not, since they are not actual production samples), they must be edited for color accuracy due
to the nature of the medium. Additionally, product color
can be radically altered (from grey to red or any othercolor) to present the desired look, But, in all these scenarios, there must be a reference digital color standard.
Some teams compile physical swatches and attempt tomatch them (similar to CAD color development). They
face the same issues described in the “onscreen digitalcolor libraries” section. Other teams farm this work out
to freelancers or digital service agencies at a hefty price.
“Hey, wait a minute, We can use our 3D assets created by
the DPC team instead of pictures of models wearing our
products.” Well… product development and MECT havedifferent output requirements.

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 27

When a DPC associate creates a 3D image, it is important to be accurate and show what the product will
really look like when worn. Ideally, that image should
provide the same level of product detail as a sample
garment on a fit model. Drape, fit, folds, and overall
appearance are important.

Notes

However, when styling a model for a photoshoot,garments are often pinned and adjusted to hide folds
and mask the overall appearance of the fit. That andrunway/product models typically have much different
body shapes and sizes.

4.

1.
2.
3.

https://about.underarmour.com/en/Purpose/Sustainability/
2021SustainabilityImpactReport.html
https://natific.com/celebrating-10-years-of-asap-part-2/
To be fair, it was Russ Merritt, co-author of “The Second C: The
Ninth Sphere of Paradise—Primum Mobile, Part 1” who firstused this phrase in the context of digital color managementback in 2007.
360 hue angle degrees x 90 Lightness steps (<10 cannot
be achieved) x 60 Chromaticity steps (>60 can only beachieved in yellows) = 1,944,000. This figure does not include
yellows with a chromaticity > 60 or fluorescent colors with achromaticity value > 100.

Consider also that color is defined and managed using
a device-dependent sRGB model in 3D design software. All of the technical issues described above comeinto play when the MECT associate edits an image.
In addition to technical color management issues,
there might also be organizational/political/turf issues
when reaching across the organization. Efforts toleverage digital color assets and processes from theproduct development color team might be met withsimilar fear of job loss on the MECT team.

SOLVING VS. ADMIRING 		
THE PROBLEM
Or not. The point here is not to despair or shrink
back. Rather, you need to prepare as a technicalleader and a management leader. In the next article
in the series, we will identify and present new color
technology that will enable color teams to address
those higher classes of problems.

Keith Hoover, President of Black Swan Textiles,
implements manufacturing-centric digitalprocesses for color and fabric development.
He has implemented digital color management
programs for Ralph Lauren, Target, Lands’ End,
JCPenney, and Under Armour, ultimately leading
to a process that eliminated lab dips altogether.
At Under Armour, Hoover championed the UA
Lighthouse, driving digitalization and advanced
manufacturing processes to explore local-forlocal sourcing. He has worked hands-on in mills
worldwide and is a frequent AATCC presenter.

Articles from The Second C: Series•

Hoover, K. The Second C: Color with a Purpose.
AATCC Review. 2022, 22 (1), 36-39.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: From Inspiration to
Replication. AATCC Review, 2022, 22 (2), 28-32.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: Lab Dips—The First Circleof Hell (Part 1). AATCC Review, 2022, 22 (3), 26-30.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: Lab Dips—The First Circleof Hell (Part 2). AATCC Review, 2022, 22 (4), 32-36.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: Leaving Limbo.
AATCC Review, 2022, 22 (5), 34-39.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Sixth Circle of Hell—
Heresy, Part 1. AATCC Review, 2022, 22 (6), 34-39.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Sixth Circle of Hell—
Heresy, Part 2. AATCC Review, 2023, 23 (1), 26-33.

•

Hoover, K.; Merritt, R. The Second C: The Ninth
Sphere of Paradise—Primum Mobile, Part 1.
AATCC Review, 2023, 23 (2), 22-28.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Ninth Sphere of
Paradise—Primum Mobile, Part 2. AATCC Review,2023, 23 (3), 22-28.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Ninth Sphere of
Paradise—Primum Mobile, Part 3. AATCC Review,2023, 23 (4), 26-31.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Ninth Sphere of
Paradise—Primum Mobile, Part 4. AATCC Review,2023, 23 (5), 34-39.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Cost of Color.
AATCC Review, 2023, 23 (6), 34-43.

•

Hoover, K. The Second C: The Truth About Color
Revisited. AATCC Review, 2024, 24 (1), 26-33.

Disclaimer: Responsibility for opinions expressed in this article is that of the author and quoted persons, not of AATCC. Mention of any trade name or proprietary product in AATCC Review
does not constitute a guarantee or warranty of the product by AATCC and does not imply its approval to the exclusion of other products that may also be suitable.

28 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

AATCC JOURNAL OF RESEARCH
The AATCC Journal of Research is available to AATCC members and journal subscribers.
Subscribtions are availabe through Sage journals. The Journal’s scope includes papers
from advanced materials, fiber and polymer sciences, textile and polymer chemistry, color
science, textile and apparel design, nanotechnology, sustainable materials and processes, andbiomedical materials.
Member Access									JOURNAL OF RESEARCH
Association of Textile, Apparel & Materials Professionals

Members of AATCC can read the AATCC Journal of Research (AJOR) at www.aatcc.org/journal
by clicking on the “Member Access to AJOR” button. Members will need to log in to the Members
portion of the website to read or download published papers in AJOR.

Authors Can Use Free ORCID IDs with AATCC Journal of Research Submissions

An ORCID ID is a nonproprietary code that uniquely identifies an academic author and can beused to track all of an author’s published works. ORCID IDs are free to all authors and can be usedin submissions to AATCC Journal of Research through SAGE Track/ScholarOne Manuscripts!
Submit journal article submissions at https://mc.manuscriptcentral.com/aatcc.

Indexed in Science Citation Index!

AATCC Journal of Research is indexed in Science Citation Index Extended (SCIE) and is
discoverable in the Clarivate Analytics Web of Science Core Collection. The journal's impact factor
is available in Journal Citation Reports.

ABSTRACTS

READ: https://journals.sagepub.com/home/aat

AATCC JOURNAL OF RESEARCH
January/February 2024 (Vol. 11, No. 1)

SUBMIT MANUSCRIPTS:
https://mc.manuscriptcentral.com/aatcc

Application of Rare Earth Marking on Anti-Counterfeiting 				Waterless/Less-Water Dyeing Technology
By Jingru Chen, Liujun Pei, Wenhua Shi, and Muhammad Asad Saleem, Shanghai University of Engineering Science; Chenjia Jiao, 		PerkinElmer Instrument; and Hongjuan Zhang and Jiping Wang, Shanghai University of Engineering Science

Abstract
Compared with traditional water-based dyeing, non-aqueous medium dyeing technology has been paid more and more attention
in the textile dyeing industry because of its advantages of saving water and chemicals. In order to distinguish and identify water
bath dyeing products and non-aqueous medium dyeing products, a traceability technology method for non-aqueous medium
dyeing products was established with rare earth elements. First, traceable materials for two typical fibers, polyester and cotton,
were selected from five rare earth elements: La, Ce, Nd, Eu, and Sm. Rare earth elements were added to mark products during
the non-aqueous dyeing process. Then the rare earth elements content of marked products was detected by inductively coupledplasma–optical emission spectrometry, which was used to identify nonaqueous media products. The influence of this traceability
method on the basic properties of dyed fabrics was studied. Compared with traditional anti-counterfeiting technologies suchas label anti-counterfeiting and query label anti-counterfeiting, the method of inductively coupled plasma–optical emission
spectrometry has a low method detection limit in the range of 0.0204-0.036 mg/kg, and good relative standard deviation values
in the range of 0.69-2.43%. The content of rare earth elements in dyed fabrics was detected by inductively coupled plasma–
optical emission spectrometry at 6-7 mg/kg when 10 mg/kg of rare earth elements were employed during dyeing. Therefore, adetection and certification method for non-aqueous dyeing products has been established, which is of great significance to theanti-counterfeiting traceability of non-aqueous medium dyeing technology.
Key Terms
Cotton, Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectrometry, Non-Aqueous Medium Dyeing, Polyester, 		Rare Earth Elements, Traceability
March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 29

The Influence of Aging on the Structure and Properties of Composite
Materials Based on Polyurethane and Silver Nanoparticles
By Eduard A. Lysenkov, Petro Mohyla Black Sea National University; and Oleksandr V. Striutskyi, 					National Academy of Sciences in Ukraine

Abstract
The aging processes and their influence on structure, thermophysical, and antimicrobial properties of polymer
nanocomposites based on segmented polyurethane and silver nanoparticles were studied. It was established that anincrease in the intensity of intermolecular interactions of polyurethane occurred regardless of the concentration of silverin the silver nanoparticles due to a change in the packing of macromolecules. It was shown that in the process of aging
of composites, the effective size of crystallites of polymer matrix decreases and varies in the range of 1.35-1.50 nm. The
most pronounced effect of aging is manifested on the melting temperatures of the crystalline phase of polyurethane andthe degree of crystallinity. It was found that polyurethane-silver nanoparticle composites exhibit a very high inhibitory
capacity against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Candida albicans. It is shown that aging processes do not affectthe antimicrobial characteristics of the studied materials, which indicates their stability. Due to their unique characteristics,
synthesized nanocomposite films can be promising for use as antimicrobial coatings in various applications.
Key Terms
Aging Effects, Antimicrobial Properties, Polymer Nanocomposites, Polyurethanes, Silver Nanoparticles, Structure,
Thermophysical Properties

Statistical Optimization of Process Variables for the Dyeing of Jutewith Marigold Petals Using a Dual Mordant System
By Ritwik Chakraborty, and Ashis Kumar Samanta, University of Calcutta; and Padma Shree Vankar, 				Indian Institute of Technology Kanpur and The Bombay Textile Research Association

Abstract
Natural dye was extracted from the petals of orange-colored marigold flowers in aqueous medium, and extraction processparameters were optimized based on the color yield (optical density) of an aqueous extract of marigold petals. The
extracted natural colorant was used to dye jute fabric and characterized by ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy. Extracts fromgallnut and natural alum (fitkiri) were applied as mordants onto the bleached jute fabric by padding method followed bydrying in air. The fabrics were treated with the mordants separately before dyeing, and then, both mordants were appliedin sequence. Jute was premordanted first with gallnut followed by alum. Jute fibers were mordanted prior to dyeing witheither gallnut or alum or both mordants (gallnut followed by alum treatment). Premordanted jute fabric was dyed with
the natural dye extracted from marigold petals, and process conditions were standardized. The dual-mordanting process
was found more effective to produce better color yield than the single mordanting process. Standardization of the process
conditions was also examined statistically by the Box–Behnken design method after choosing the significant variables by
the Plackett–Burman design method. The standardized dyeing process conditions were found to be dyeing temperature:
90 °C; material to liquor ratio: 1:40; dyeing time: 60 min; dye concentration: 30% o.w.f.; and pH: 11.
Key Terms
Box–Behnken Design, Dual Mordanting, Marigold, Natural Dyeing, Statistical Optimization

Carbon Footprint of Wool at Cradle to Farm-Gate Stage in 			
Victoria, Australia
By Xue Li, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; Lirong Sun, China National Textile and Apparel Council; Jianhua Zhang, Zhejiang Xinao Textiles
Inc.; Xin Li, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; Yi Yang, Zhejiang Light Industrial Products Inspection and Research Institute; Lisha Zhu and Ying
Zhang, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; and Laili Wang, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University and Zhejiang Academy of Ecological Civilization

Abstract
The raw material acquisition stage of wool involves raising sheep and a large amount of input and output, resulting insubstantial greenhouse gas emissions. To date, the research literature on wool carbon footprint is limited, and there is alack of research on Victoria, Australia. These studies did not consider the influence of changes in weight and productive
lifespan. This study aims to address this knowledge gap by calculating the wool carbon footprint in Victoria and improving
the calculation method. In this article, 20,000 sheep in Victoria were investigated. The average weights of the sheep
30 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

were obtained by curve fitting and calculating. Two scenarios with 5-year and 6-year productive lifespans were used to
calculate the carbon footprint of merino wool by the mass allocation method, economic allocation method, and protein
mass allocation method. Results revealed that the carbon footprint of wool for the 5-year and 6-year productive lifespans
were 14.158-49.040 kg carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2-e)/kg wool and 16.743-52.882 kg CO2-e/kg wool. Ruminationand excretion accounted for the largest proportion, followed by phosphate fertilizer, electricity, and potash fertilizer. The
longer the productive lifespan and the heavier the sheep, the greater the greenhouse gas emissions from rumination andexcretion, leading to a larger carbon footprint for wool. For the same productive lifespan, the economic allocation method
produced the highest carbon footprint for wool compared to the mass allocation method, which produced the lowest
carbon footprint. This study provides a reference for the subsequent carbon footprint accounting of wool from cradle tofarm-gate and helps the wool industry save energy and reduce emissions.
Key Terms
Allocation Method, Carbon Footprint, Productive Lifespan, Rumination and Excretion, Wool

A Novel Polyvinylidene Fluoride/Keratin Electret Filter with 		Comprehensive Performance and High-Efficiency PM0.3 Removal
By Zhengrui Yang, Yan Liu, Qiang Li, and Rong Li, Donghua University

Abstract
Effective and environmentally friendly air filters to preserve public health are essential given the particle matter
pollution epidemic that has permanently damaged human health. This study used blending spinning to create a uniquepolyvinylidene fluoride/keratin electret filter with reliable PM0.3 reduction and comprehensive features. More specifically,adding keratin derived from natural wool significantly increased composite fibrous membranes’ pore structure and surface
charge. Keratin and polyvinylidene fluoride work together synergistically to produce a fiber membrane that exhibits good
filtration performance with a quality factor of 0.04662 /Pa, a low pressure drop of 127 Pa, and a high particle removal
capacity of 99.731%. The development of this electret material provides a new approach for the design of environmentallyfriendly air filters for efficient removal of PM0.3.
Key Terms
Air Filter, Electrospinning, Fiber Membrane, Keratin, PM0.3, PVDF

An Evaluation of the Barrier and Durability Performance of Reusable
Level 2 Isolation Gowns Over Their Promoted Service Life
By Elizabeth Easter and Susan Dabbain, University of Kentucky

Abstract
The Covid-19 pandemic negatively impacted the health and safety of healthcare workers as the supply of personal
protective equipment was severely limited at the pandemic’s beginning. Some healthcare facilities took the Centers for
Disease Control and Prevention’s recommendations to shift from disposable personal protective equipment to reusable,
as an option for extending the life of their personal protective equipment during the pandemic. This research investigated
Level 2 isolation gowns to determine whether they met or exceeded the protection specifications of ANSI/AAMI
PB70:2012 and the American Society for Testing and Materials: ASTM F3352-19 Standard Specification for Isolation
Gowns Intended for Use in Healthcare Facilities. The overall findings show that commercially available reusable gowns
initially met the ANSI/AAMI PB70:2012 and ASTM F3352 standards. Out of the six sample groups, gowns in one groupfailed the ANSI/AAMI PB70:2012 specifications before the end of their intended lifecycle. All gowns met the specifications
for durability in ASTM F3352-19, but further research showed tear strength after laundering weakened substantially. The
current standard for Level 2 isolation gowns is protecting the lives of healthcare workers. However, the specifications could
be improved by ANSI/AAMI by evaluating the performance after laundering instead of as new. Durability specifications
would be improved by increasing the requirements for reusable gowns.
Key Terms
Durability, Isolation Gown, Performance, Protection, Standards

March/April 2024

Vol. 24, No. 2 AATCC Review | 31

ENDS & PICKSTEXTILE TESTING WORKSHOPAATCC TECHNICAL CENTERRESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC, USA

32 | AATCC Review

Vol. 24, No. 2

March/April 2024

EVENTS CALENDARMARCHAI IN TEXTILE DISCOVERY—PATTERN,GENAI, AND MATERIALS DIGITIZATION

6

Virtualwww.aatcc.org/ai-dl

APRIL
AATCC ADMINISTRATIVE 			COMMITTEE MEETINGS

9-12

Virtualwww.aatcc.org/admin

AATCC SHOWCASES TEXTILE TESTING 		
AT FUNCTIONAL FABRIC FAIR

16-18

Portland, OR, USA

www.aatcc.org/calendar

RISING PROFESSIONALS 			INTEREST GROUP MEETING

23

Virtualwww.aatcc.org/membership-events

MAY
PFAS IN TEXTILES CONFERENCEStateView Hotel, Raleigh, NC, USA

2-3

www.aatcc.org/pfas2024

AATCC RESEARCH 				COMMITTEE MEETINGSONGOING EVENTSAATCC DIGITAL LABS
www.aatcc.org/learn/#dl

AATCC INTEREST GROUP		DISCUSSION MEETINGS &MEMBERSHIP ONLY EVENTS
www.aatcc.org/membership-events

PROFICIENCY TESTING 		PROGRAMS
www.aatcc.org/ptp

ONLINE TEST METHOD TRAINING
www.aatcc.org/learn/#otmt

GLOBAL TEST METHOD TRAINING

7-9

www.aatcc.org/training/#global

New Location! (see website for details)
Research Triangle Park, NC, USA
In-Person & Virtual
www.aatcc.org/research

JUNE
CHEMICAL APPLICATIONS INTERESTGROUP MEETING ON PFAS

18

Virtualwww.aatcc.org/membership-events

OCTOBERAATCC TEXTILE DISCOVERY SUMMIT
Savannah, GA, USA

www.aatcc.org/summit

6-8

CONNECT & FOLLOW AATCC!

Get Your Ducks in a Row.
Trust Your Results.
Use AATCC chlorine test control fabric & TM162.
https://members.aatcc.org/store
ordering@aatcc.org