STYLED.
Timeless Watches &How to Wear Them
New York, 5 December 2018

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Executives.

Edward Dolman

Cheyenne Westphal

Chief Executive Ofcer+1 212 940 1241
edolman@phillips.com

Chairman+44 20 7318 4044
cwestphal@phillips.com© Brigitte Lacombe

Senior Consultants.

New York.

Aurel Bacs

Livia Russo

Paul Boutros

Doug Escribano

Manon Bega

Isabella Proia

James Marks

Senior Consultant+41 22 317 81 88
abacs@phillips.com

Senior Consultant+41 22 317 81 88
lrusso@phillips.com

Head of Watches
Americas, International
Strategy Advisor+1 212 940 1293
pboutros@phillips.com

Senior International
Specialist+1 212 940 1382
describano@phillips.com

Business Development
Manager+1 212 940 1274
mbega@phillips.com

Associate Specialist,
Cataloguer+1 212 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

International Specialist+44 20 7 901 7916
jmarks@phillips.com

London.

Geneva.

Paris.

Alexandre Ghotbi

Virginie Liatard-Roessli

Arthur Touchot

Tifany To

Marcello de MarcoNathalie Monbaron

Diana Ortega

Pansy Ku

Head of Sale, Specialist+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

Specialist+41 22 317 81 82
vliatard@phillips.com

Specialist, Head of
Digital Strategy+41 22 317 96 62
atouchot@phillips.com

Specialist+41 22 317 96 63
tto@phillips.com

Specialist, Business
Development Associate+41 22 317 81 81
mdemarco@phillips.com

Regional Director,
Business Development
Director+41 22 317 81 83
nmonbaron@phillips.com

Business Development
Manager+41 22 317 81 87
dortega@phillips.com

International Business
Development Director+33 1 53 71 77 89
pku@phillips.com

Hong Kong.

Thomas Perazzi

Tokyo.

Jill Chen

Head of Watches, Asia
Specialist,+852 2318 2030
Business Development
thomasperazzi@phillips.com Director+852 2318 2033
jchen@phillips.com

Zi Yong Ho

Stasia Mui

Kenneth Chan

Specialist+852 2318 2032
zho@phillips.com

Associate Specialist,
Cataloguer+852 2318 2035
smui@phillips.com

Cataloguer+852 2318 2045
kchan@phillips.com

Genki Sakamoto

Taiwan.

Kaz Fujimoto

Senior Specialist Consultant Senior Consultant+81 3 6273 4818
+81 3 6273 4818
gsakamoto@phillips.com
kfujimoto@phillips.com

Senior Specialist+886 963 135 449
cyen@phillips.com

Zach Lu
Consultant+852 2318 2034
zlu@phillips.com

International
Business Directors.

Deputy Chairmen.

Svetlana Marich

Jean-Paul Engelen

Robert Manley

Jonathan Crockett

Peter Sumner

Myriam Christinaz

Bart van Son

Worldwide Deputy
Chairman+44 20 7318 4010
smarich@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Worldwide Co-Headof 20th Century &Contemporary Art+1 212 940 1390
jpengelen@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Worldwide Co-Headof 20th Century &Contemporary Art+1 212 940 1358
rmanley@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman, Asia
and Head of 20th Century& Contemporary Art, Asia
+852 2318 2023
jcrockett@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman, Europe+44 20 7318 4063
psumner@phillips.com

Co-International
Business Director+41 22 317 81 84
mchristinaz@phillips.com

Co-International
Business Director+44 20 7901 7912
bvanson@phillips.com

Miety Heiden

Alexander Payne

Vanessa Hallett

Vivian Pfeifer

Marianne Hoet

Deputy Chairman,
Head of Private Sales+44 20 7901 7943
mheiden@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Europe and Worldwide
Head of Design+44 20 7318 4052
apayne@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Americas and Worldwide
Head of Photographs+1 212 940 1243
vhallett@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Americas and Head ofBusiness Development,
Americas+1 212 940 1392
vpfeifer@phillips.com

Deputy Chairman,
Europe, Senior Specialist,
20th Century &Contemporary Art+852 2318 2023
mhoet@phillips.com

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Cindy Yen

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STYLED.
Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them
Auction5 December 2018, 6pm
Auction & Viewing Location
450 Park Avenue, New York
Viewing
Friday November 30, 10am-6pm
Saturday December 1, 10am-6pm
Sunday December 2, 12pm-6pm
Monday December 3, 10am-6pm
Tuesday December 4, 10am-6pm
Wednesday December 5, 10am-2pm
Sale Designation
When sending in written bids
or making enquiries pleaserefer to this sale as NY080118 or
STYLED. Timeless Watches
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Tel +1 212 940 1228
Fax +1 212 940 1749
bidsnewyork@phillips.com

Watch Department
New York
Head of Americas
International Strategy Advisor
Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293
pboutros@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist
Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382
describano@phillips.com
Business Development Manager
Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274
mbega@phillips.com
Cataloguer, Associate Specialist
Isabella Proia +1 212 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com
Administrator
Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395
drosa@phillips.com
GenevaSenior Consultant
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188
abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Senior Consultant
Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188
lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com

Executive Assistant toSenior Consultants
Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188
ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Head of Sale & Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189
aghotbi@phillips.com
Specialist
Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63
tto@phillips.com
Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli +41 22 317 8182
vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy
Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62
atouchot@phillips.com
Specialist & Business
Development Associate
Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81
mdemarco@phillips.com
Co-International Business Director
Myriam Christinaz+41 22 317 81 84
mchristinaz@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business
Development Director
Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183
nmonbaron@phillips.com
Business Development Manager
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187
dortega@phillips.com
Administrator
Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667
abenard@phillips.com

Associate Specialist, Cataloguer
Stasia Mui+852 2318 2035
smui@phillips.com
Cataloguer
Kenneth Chan
+852 2318 2045
kchan@phillips.com
Senior Administrator
Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031
jackylam@phillips.com
LondonInternational Specialist
James Marks +44 20 7 901 2907
jmarks@phillips.com
Co-International Business Director
Bart van Son+44 20 7901 7912
bvanson@phillips.com
ParisInternational Business
Development Director
Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 87
pku@phillips.com
Japan
Senior Specialist Consultant
Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818
gsakamoto@phillips.com
Senior Consultant
Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818
kfujimoto@phillips.com

Shipping & Ofce Coordinator
Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60
aaubertin@phillips.com

TaiwanSenior Specialist
Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449
cyen@phillips.com

Watchmaker, Technical Support
Nicolas Commergnat
info@alliance-geneve.com

Consultant
Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034
zlu@phillips.com

Hong Kong
Head of Watches, Asia
Thomas Perazzi+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Advisory Board
Jean-Claude Biver
Henry Chan
Helmut Crott
Ike Honigstock
Stephen Charles Li
Auro Montanari
Jason Singer
Kenneth Wong

Specialist, Business
Development Director
Jill Chen +852 2318 2000
jchen@phillips.com

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_2-15.indd 3

Specialist
Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2031
zho@phillips.com

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Aurel Bacs

Paul Boutros

STYLED!
By Aurel Bacs and Paul Boutros

Quality. Passion. Scholarship. Accessibility. These arejust a few of the many shared pillars of our businesses
we realized we had in common with our partners,
MR PORTER and The Rake, for this our second New
York watch auction. Our mission is to celebrate and ofer
products with enduring value, and it’s our pleasure to help
spread the word of what each of us does, beyond our own,
limited group of existing clients and followers.
We each recognize that well-designed, carefully
manufactured products are made to last, and while thismay come at a cost, high quality items are what we preferto choose when it comes to spending our hard-earned
dollars. It’s a mindset where less is more, with an eye
towards acquiring items with timeless style. Whether
it’s our watch collection or our wardrobe, for us, we feelit’s ofen better to have, for example, one fnely tailoredjacket that will last a generation than a handful of lower
quality, poorly made alternatives. Handmade leather
shoes from England, or a navy blue bespoke sport coat,these classics will never go out of fashion, similar to thetimeless styling of a classic, mechanical man’s dress
watch. Whatever the reason may be for wanting to lookyour best, it’s hardly ever done to impress others. Instead,it’s a motivation from within to express who we are andhow we want to see ourselves.
It was great fun working with the MR PORTER and The
Rake teams deciding on our 12 categories - a symbolic
nod to the 12 hours indicated on a mechanical watch.
Curating this auction was every bit like a treasure hunt,
thinking of the right watches to be worn for noteworthy
moments of a man’s life - and the selection ofered here

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is the result of a true team efort with our International
specialists. We sought to ofer a diverse mix of brands,
eras, price points, and of course, aesthetic styles – eachrelevant for today’s tastes and sensibilities. We’re truly
excited with the selection our clients have entrusted
us with, especially the numerous fresh-to-market andtimepieces from original owners or their descendants,
each of which were well cared for and certain to delighteven the most demanding connoisseur.
A true team efort shared with our friends Toby Bateman
and Wei Koh and their teams at MR PORTER and The
Rake, we sincerely hope you will enjoy this “handbook”
that ofers our collective thoughts on what to wear, andwhich watch to choose, for the notable moments ofyour life. It was a project built with passion and care, forthose who share our passions.
Speaking of our own team, we’d like to mention our
newest New York-based associate specialist andcataloguer, Isabella Proia, an established member of thewatch community with a contagious passion for watches.
This catalog is the result of the hard work of many, witha special thanks to our New York Administrator, Daniella
Rosa, whose tireless dedication behind the scenes
alongside Doug Escribano, Manon Bega, and Isabella was
key to putting together this sale. Twenty-four “looks”
and 120 timeless and exceptional timepieces – all ofwhich we hope might help keep you “STYLED” for years
to come. We look forward to welcoming you personallyat one of our preview exhibitions, or in New York for thisauction – a “Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering” that we’resure you’ll enjoy!

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Introduction
By Toby Bateman, Managing Director, MR PORTER
Over the past few years, while I have been busy as
usual furthering the general style pursuits of MR
PORTER around the world, I have been trying toforge a place in the online world of luxury watches.
When one enters into the world of haute horlogerie,
one cannot remain impervious to the infuence thatvintage watches have on the broader universe of new
watches, from the inspiration behind the designs
through to being a temperature gauge for what’s
coming next. And so it is that I have, by process of
osmosis, become drawn into and fascinated by theworld of vintage watches.
The starting point on MR PORTER’s journey in thewatch world stemmed from the frm belief thatwhile we could talk to our customers and oferthem (to buy quickly and easily with a simple clickof a button!) anything from John Lobb shoes to
Charvet ties and Lock & Co hats, we were leaving theconversation unfnished in respect of what he shouldwear on his wrist. I can proudly say that over the past
couple of years, MR PORTER has made progress ofsorts and now we are indeed able to complete theconversation of watches and shoes (and are indeed
being cited by some as trailblazers in the world of
luxury watches online).
So when in the summer this year I received aninvitation to join Messrs Aurel Bacs and Wei Koh on aphone call, I was immediately intrigued…

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I’d had the coincidental pleasure of fnding myself in
New York last year when Phillips brought the famousPaul Newman Daytona to market and, bagging myself
a last-minute invite, was duly impressed by the calm
control and elegance with which Mr Bacs conducted
the evening; we subsequently asked him to appear in
his own flm on MR PORTER talking about his personalcollection of vintage watches – which has since become
our second-most-popular flm ever (only beaten by
footballing legend Mr Xabi Alonso’s own flm on his
watch collection). As for Mr Koh, who is a legend in his
own right – not only for his expletive-strewn Instagram
Live posts, but also as a watch afcionado second tonone and the arbiter of style behind the bible for classic
elegance that is The Rake.
The idea shared in that frst call this summer was:“Would it be interesting to present a vintage watch
auction in the context of how to wear them, focusing
perhaps on notable events that gentlemen around theworld might fnd themselves?” Frankly, MR PORTER’s
involvement was a nobrainer. This presents anopportunity to reinforce the conversation we have been
trying to have with our customers and readers, thatwhat you wear on your wrist is as important as what you
wear on your feet.
The result of this exciting and innovative project ispresented here in this catalogue for “STYLED. Timeless
Watches and How to Wear Them”.

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Introduction
By Wei Koh, Founder, The Rake
To paraphrase Marcel Proust, my favourite descriptionof style is as the manifestation of an inner universe thateach of us sees, but is not seen by others. And when it
comes to a man’s personal take on elegance, I’ve always
felt the relationship between his sartorial self-expression
and his choice of timepieces is as sacrosanct as thatbetween a religious pilgrim and the all mighty himself.
And in the canon of elegance, the inseparable nature
between man’s outer appearance and his timepiece ofchoice have made for some of the most iconic moments.
Take for example Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown
Afair, dressed in his three-piece Douglas Hayward
bespoke suits replete with double breasted waistcoats,as he insouciantly checks the time on his Patek Philippe
pocket watch to clock the progress of the bank robbery
he’s masterminded. Or Gianni Agnelli, glaring lion-likeand saturnine into the camera, emanating the highest
wattage sartorial badass-itude with his Patek Philippe
world timer or his Omega Ploprof ensconced haughtily
outside his sleeve. So when Aurel Bacs, former Rakeof the Year and the man who has single handedly
brought vintage watch collecting to the very forefrontof contemporary culture, approached me to collaborate
on his auction in New York this December 5th, I was
immediately intrigued. Because it was Bacs’ desire
to explore and illuminate the inseparable relationshipbetween a man’s way of dressing and his choice in watch.
Afer a quick discussion, we both expressed the sharedbelief that the right watch, a paradigm of elegance suchas a vintage Vacheron Constantin Cioccolatone triple

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calendar or a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in the context ofa black tie ensemble, is not just the perfect companion
but the crowning glory of a gentleman’s Bella Figura.
Similarly, a Rolex Paul Newman 6241 Daytona or an
Omega Ultraman perfectly complements an ensemble
destined for a vintage car revival. For both of us, ofcourse, our dream was to bring Mr Porter into a threeway marriage around the theme of the 12 most elegant
moments in a man’s life. Interestingly, Toby Bateman,
who helms Mr Porter and is one of the individuals I
admire most as a true innovator in the luxury universe,
was also a Rake of the Year in 2017. During the course ofinterviewing him, my admiration grew for his leadershipof what has been the single biggest game changing
revolution in luxury men’s retail. To our great delight,
Toby agreed to participate in our adventure uniting thesartorial and horological words.
Both Mr Porter and The Rake have assembled 12 dashingensembles that we believe perfectly express the sartorial
needs of each of the 12 most elegant moments in a man’slife. Around this, the amazing Bacs and Russo team havecurated a collection of 10 watches each. The clothing
selected by both Mr Porter and The Rake will be present
at the auction and in the events leading up to it andavailable to purchase. For me the greatest innovators are
the men capable of uniting diferent universes to reach all
new audiences and I feel that when it comes to this, there
could be no greater collaborators than Aurel Bacs andToby Bateman and I am deeply honoured to participate inthis project with them both.

26/10/18 08:34

Styled. Watches

1. F.P. Journe

2. Omega

3. Rolex

4. IWC

5. Patek Philippe

6. Rolex

7. Patek Philippe

8. Patek Philippe

9. Richard Mille

10. Rolex

11. Breitling

12. Rolex

13. Rolex

14. Patek Philippe

15. Heuer

16. Audemars Piguet

17. Rolex

18. Patek Philippe

19. Patek Philippe

20. Omega

21. Rolex

22. Patek Philippe

23. Breitling

24. Patek Philippe

25. Rolex

26. Omega

27. Patek Philippe

28. Rolex

29. Jaeger-LeCoultre

30. Rolex

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31. Heuer

32. Rolex

33. Rolex

34. Rolex

35. Audemars Piguet

36. Blancpain

37. Patek Philippe

38. Omega

39. Patek Philippe

40. Rolex

41. Rolex

42. F.P. Journe

43. Jaeger-LeCoultre

44. Patek Philippe

45. Bulova

46. Rolex

47. Patek Philippe

48. Omega

49. Rolex

50. Patek Philippe

51. Patek Philippe

52. Rolex

53. Rolex

54. Patek Philippe

55. Jaeger-LeCoultre

56. Rolex

57. Breguet

58. Patek Philippe

59. Patek Philippe

60. Cartier

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Styled. Watches

61. Rolex

62. Omega

63. IWC

64. Patek Philippe

65. Patek Philippe

66. Rolex

67. Rolex

68. Audemars Piguet

69. Patek Philippe

70. Tornek-Rayville

71. IWC

72. Vacheron Constantin

73. Patek Philippe

74. Rolex

75. Omega

76. Rolex

77. Rolex

78. Rolex

79. Patek Philippe

80. Patek Philippe

81. Rolex

82. Omega

83. Rolex

84. Rolex

85. Heuer

86. Patek Philippe

87. Vacheron Constantin

88. Patek Philippe

89. Rolex

90. Movado

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91. Patek Philippe

92. Rolex

93. Breguet

94. Rolex

95. Patek Philippe

96. Patek Philippe

97. Rolex

98. Omega

99. Patek Philippe

100. Cartier101. Patek Philippe

102. Omega

103. Rolex

104. Patek Philippe

105. Rolex

106. Patek Philippe

107. Patek Philippe

108. Vacheron Constantin

109. Rolex

110. Audemars Piguet

111. Patek Philippe

112. Vacheron Constantin

113. Rolex

114. Patek Philippe

115. Patek Philippe

116. Patek Philippe

117. Patek Philippe118. Hermès

119. Harry Winston

120. Rolex

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Styled. Mr Porter & The Rake

1. Wimbledon Lots 1-10

2. Goodwood Lots 11-20

3. Safari Lots 21-30

4. Positano Lots 31-40

5. Business Lots 41-50

6. Eveningwear Lots 51-60

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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_2-15.indd 15

7. Hamptons Lots 61-70

8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering Lots 71-81

9. Après-Ski Lots 82-91

10. Wedding Lots 92-101

11. Caribbean Lots 102-111

12. Art Basel Lots 112-120

26/10/18 08:35

1 . Wimbledon
Gaining a style advantage

As recently as 2014, all Wimbledon Fortnight “debenture
holders” - people with tickets that give them access to Centre
and Number One Courts throughout the tournament - wereadvised that jeans and collarless shirts both fall outside thestated “smart but casual” dress code.
Things have relaxed in the short time since, and items stillprohibited in the dress code (torn jeans, running vests, dirty
trainers, clothes emblazoned with promotional or politicalslogans) are likely to have been banished from a man’s lifearound the time his career began. That doesn’t mean, though,that dressing for Britain’s annual lawn-tennis event should betaken lightly: especially when the David Beckhams, Jude Laws
and David Gandys of this world like to frequent the hallowed
realms of what is, lest we forget, rather grandly called The All
England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club.
Beckham has been known to pair a navy blazer with camelchinos to great efect; Tom Hiddleston has managed to carry ofa vivid navy three-piece, although that could have proved an
uncomfortable afair in the event of blazing sunshine; Panama
hats and linen lounge suits have, meanwhile, been de rigueur
for some years.
If you fnd yourself invited to the Royal Box, meanwhile, bewareof falling foul of the stricter codes there, as Lewis Hamilton did in
2015: a tie, jacket and shoes here are imperative. We’re confdent
the ensembles featured here will see you serve an ace in any
scenario in the leafy and (occasionally) sunny realms of SW19.

Lots 1 to 10
The watches seen at Wimbledon should straddle the line between
casual elegance and functionality – but above all, they should makea decisive statement. In line with these considerations, they run
the gamut from Rolex sports watches to exclusive references by
independents. The glint of a rare beam of sunlight on a platinum
or gold case as one claps appreciatively – the wrist is truly on
display at Wimbledon. A perpetual calendar minute repeater from
IWC is sure to draw the eyes of seatmates, almost as surely as anultra-light Richard Mille in titanium. While the tennis superstarsof the world compete against each other for athletic dominance,celebrities and socialites rub elbows – and likely trade glances atwrists - with royalty on the sidelines.

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Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 17

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1. Wimbledon

Mr Porter’s lookLot 10
Rolex. GMT-Master Reference 6542, 18K yellow
gold, circa 1958

A slightly more informal approach here is signifed by the
inclusion of a blue Chambray shirt – as much a perennial
men’s wardrobe staple, these days, as his collection of
t-shirts and work shirts, incidentally – from Rubinacci.
Its inclusion with a six-button double-breasted navy blazer
from Italian brand Boglioli makes for a witty casual-formal
juxtaposition, with one of Drake’s trademark polkadot
ties in brown and green and a green pin-dot wool-and-silk
blend pocket square from Anderson & Sheppard making
for a lovely, earthy colour spectrum.
The detail-free ‘Alessandro Éclair’ whole-cut leather
Oxfords from Berluti ensure no- nonsense, pragmatic
gracefulness reign supreme with the footwear. Note,here, that the umbrella – hand-made by Milanese
specialists Francesco Maglia – is open, and sunglasses
are conspicuous in their absence, signifying that this ispossibly a look for the Court One faneur expecting tospend the bulk of his day squinting through the raindrops
at highlights reels on the big screen.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 18

Blazer by Boglioli
Shirt by Rubinacci
Tie by Drake’s
Pocket square by Anderson & Sheppard
Trousers by BOSS
Shoes by Berluti
Umbrella by Francesco Maglia

26/10/18 08:49

The Rake’s look

Lot 5
Patek Philippe. Reference 5070P, platinum,
circa 2009

A wry sleight of hand sees both looks here involve thewearer carrying an umbrella – not so much a precaution,
at Wimbledon, as a necessity, unless the centre court’s
retractable roof is at your disposal. Both parties have also
seized on a navy jacket and lighter trousers as the reliably
harmonious combo that it is. Sciamat provide the former
here, Cifonelli the latter in white cotton.
A tentative tweaking of the rules in this ensemble sees
the azure vertical stripes of an shirt from Italian company
Cordone 1956 (whose products are all hand-made in Como)juxtaposed with diagonal stripes on a tie from Turnbull &Asser. Meanwhile, the brown Belgian loafers by Baudoin& Lange, striking as they do a perfect balance between
casual and formal, epitomise the whole look, especially ifthat brolly (from George Cleverly) proves pessimistic.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 19

Jacket by Sciamat
Shirt by Cordone 1956
Tie by Turnbull & Asser
Pocket square by Rubinacci
Trousers by Cifonelli
Loafers by Barbanera
Umbrella by George Cleverley

26/10/18 08:49

1. Wimbledon

1.

F.P. Journe – An attractive and well-preserved platinum wristwatch withblack dial, pink gold movement, power reserve, certifcate of authenticity,and presentation box

Manufacturer

F.P. Journe

Year

Circa 2008

Case No.

461-CS

Model Name

Chronomètre Souverain

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, cal. 1304, 22 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold F. P. Journe deployant clasp

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000 •€13,000-21,700
Accessories
With F. P. Journe Warranty dated January 24, 2008 and signed
Montre Journe Genève S. A., wooden presentation box, productliterature, polishing cloth, and outer packaging.
LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE

François-Paul Journe is a modern watchmaker who brings
technical skill and innovation to wristwatches that areclassically designed but have a contemporary aesthetic. F.P.
Journe, his company, was established in 1999, and follows
the motto “Invenit et Fecit” or [He] invented it and made it,a clear indication that the brand’s watches are fully designed
and produced in house. With the collection “Souverain”,
François Paul Journe presented his frst wristwatch with acentral time display.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 20

Ofered in several variations, the principle objective of
these timepieces, as the name of the collection implies,
is chronometric precision. Even though its design
is a tribute to traditional chronometers, it has been
implemented in a subtly contemporary manner with its
large hour and minute hands, and power reserve andseconds indications placed in an original manner at 3
o’clock and 7 to 8 o’clock respectively.
The present, elite “Black Label” model with platinum
case was only ofered to existing owners of F.P. Journe
watches, and only available to purchase through an
F.P. Journe Boutique. With its beautiful and minimalist
black guilloché dial with white Arabic numerals, it iseasily readable, and its 40mm diameter case is wellproportioned and balanced, comfortably ftting wristsof all sizes. The highly accurate caliber 1304 is a marvel
to look at, and is made from solid 18 karat pink gold,
featuring two mainspring barrels allowing for a 56-hour
power reserve. Contemporary, elegant yet classic, thistimepiece is the perfect match between the genius of its
creator and the elegance of a timeless design.

26/10/18 08:51

F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre Souverain“Black Label”

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2.

Omega – A very fne and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith tachymeter bezel and bracelet

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1967

Reference No.

ST 105.003-65

Movement No.

24’951’900

Model Name

Speedmaster, “Ed White”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 321, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Omega link bracelet, end links
stamped 6

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, reference
number 1035, stamped 2.67

Dimensions

39.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$10,000-15,000€8,700-13,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming
production on July 4th, 1967 and delivered to Mexico.
Literature
For another example of a reference 105.003-65, please see Grégoire
Rossier and Anthony Marquié Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega
Speedmaster Guide, pp. 272-273.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 22

The reference 105.003-65 marks a pivotal movement
in Omega history, as it was the Speedmaster reference
rigorously tested by NASA that would become the timepiecechosen to accompany astronauts to the moon. From thatmoment forward, the destiny of Omega was fundamentallyand profoundly changed, and has since been very closelyaligned with space exploration.
It is nicknamed the “Ed White”, as the astronaut Ed White
wore a reference 105.003-65 during his historic spacewalk
during the Gemini 4 mission, becoming the frst American to
do so. He stayed in space longer than his allotted time, andfamously upon his return remarked “I’m coming back in…
and it’s the saddest moment of my life.” Tragically, during
a testing run for the Apollo 1 space mission, a fre broke out
in the cabin and White and his crew were killed. The deathsof White and his fellow astronauts Virgil Grissom and Roger
Chafee led to improvements in the shuttle design andsafety features of future Apollo Command Modules, andthose changes allowed Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin tofnally walk on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission on July
20th, 1969.
The historical importance of this reference is matchedby this example’s immaculate condition – a completely
unpolished case free of much of the wear and tear visible onother models, a bezel with little signs of aging, and a perfectmatte black dial with visible steps and all the indicatorsof the correct reference. Even the bracelet is in perfectcondition and likely original to the watch. This “Ed White”
Speedmaster will captivate the imaginations of those whogrew up watching great men and women risk everything toenter that next frontier: space.

26/10/18 08:53

OMEGA
Ref. 105.003 Speedmaster“Ed White”

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3.

Rolex – A rare, well-preserved, and highly attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with original guarantee, presentation box, and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1980

Reference No.

6263

Case No.

6’294’820

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Big Red”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped
78350, 19, end links stamped 571, max length
210mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

78350 G

Estimate$40,000-60,000€34,700-52,100
Accessories
Original Rolex presentation box, guarantee dated 26th May, 1983 andstamped Saddik & Mohamed Attar Co., Jeddah, and product literature.
Literature
For another reference 6263 please see Ultimate Rolex Daytona, byPucci Papaleo, pages 380 to 383.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_lots3,4,12,16.indd 24

The reference 6263 is one of the most iconic and sought afer
Daytona Cosmograph watches available. The large case andacrylic bezel give the chronograph a modern and appealing
aesthetic that charms both men and women. Introduced in1969 as the upgraded version of the earlier reference 6240,
the new model housed the caliber 727 and featured screw
down pushers for enhanced water proof capability. Alongwith the reference 6265, the stainless steel bezel versionof the watch, the two sit proudly in the pantheon of Rolex
chronograph history. In fact, Rolex’s latest Daytona, thecurrently produced modern reference 116500LN, was directly
inspired by these vintage “Big Red” Daytona models.
The present watch is in extraordinary original conditionand has a sporty appeal with its multi-colored dial withblack matte background, of-white subsidiary dials and red“Daytona” signature at 6 o’clock. The allure of the watch
is enhanced with the correct black acrylic bezel, original
pushers and Oyster bracelet, complete with original dated
guarantee and presentation box. Certain models from abrand ofen standout more than others, and the Rolex
Daytona today is certainly an important watch for collectors.
This fne reference 6263 is an excellent example, and willplease any savvy connoisseur.

02/11/18 16:50

ROLEX
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona“Big Red”

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1. Wimbledon

4.

IWC – A fne and very rare limited edition oversized pink gold minute repeating
perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, accompanied with boxes,
paperwork, and warranty booklet

Manufacturer

IWC

Year

2008

Reference No.

377025

Case No.

3’414’721

Model NameGrande Complication

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 79091, 71 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold IWC buckle

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 Σ€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by original IWC ftted presentation box, productliterature, and paperwork.

In 1985, during the midst of the quartz crisis, IWC set out
to create what would be its frst “grande complication”
wristwatch and one of the world’s most complicatedtimepieces: a wristwatch featuring a perpetual calendar,a chronograph, and a minute repeater. A team ofwatchmakers and engineers was assembled to create
IWC’s grande complication, including two young heraldsof complicated horology, Dominic Renaud and Giulio
Papi (today, they are behind some of Audemars Piguet
and Richard Mille’s most complicated movements). Aferfve years of painstaking development and 12 individual
patents, this horological masterpiece was ofciallypresented at the Basel fair in 1990. Reportedly, by theend of the fair, the company had enough order requests
for the next seven years. Each of the 659 individualcomponents were manufactured and assembled inhouse, and power 18 functions and complications: hour,
minute and seconds displays, moon phase, month, day
and date displays, perpetual calendar, indication of year,
decade, century and millennium, chronograph seconds
counter, chronograph minutes counter, chronograph
hours counter, minute repeater, quarter repeater andhour repeater.
Released in several diferent case materials and dial
iterations over the following two decades, limited
examples are produced each year. This pristine example
from 2008 is accompanied with its original boxes andpaperwork, and remains preserved in immaculate
original condition.

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02/11/18 16:50

IWC
Grande Complication

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5.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare and large platinum chronograph wristwatchwith certifcate of origin, paperwork, and ftted box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2009

Reference No.

5070P-001

Movement No.

3’715’795

Case No.

4’493’373

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, CH 27-70, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000 Σ€69,500-104,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 27th, 2009,
product literature, factory box, hang tag, and leather wallet. Further
accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production in 2009 with blue dial and white gold Arabic numerals andsubsequent sale on October 27th, 2009.

The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the frst modern-era
chronograph-only wristwatch released by the frm since the 1960s
saw the end of production for the reference 1463. Introduced in1998 at Basel, it was something of a shock to collectors that Patek
would choose to reintroduce their chronograph-only line in such boldfashion – particularly the 42mm case dimension and the dramaticallythick, stepped bezel.
For the tenth anniversary of the release of the frst reference 5070,
Patek Philippe released in 2008 a platinum-cased version with asublime blue dial. The platinum 5070, represented by the present lot,
was only in production from 2008 until 2010, and was manufactured
in the fewest number of pieces of any 5070, adding to its desirability.
Though the case architecture assures a commanding presence, in
platinum these attributes are elevated. The dial color is of particularinterest, as it is difcult to accurately pinpoint the exact shade ofblue. Patek itself refers to the color as “bleu nuage” or “cloud blue”,
but truly there are myriad names for the colors that come out atdiferent angles or light sources. The oversized Arabic numerals,
also reminiscent of aviator’s watches and one of the main design
elements carried over from the historical reference 2512 on which
the 5070 is based, are rendered in 18k white gold, adding a subtle
lustre to the already superb dial. As with most modern platinum
Patek Philippes watches, a 0.02 carat diamond is inset at the case at
six o’clock.
The appeal of the present reference 5070P is heightened due toits outstanding state of preservation and completeness, where
all accessories, even its original hang tag, accompany this fne
collectors’ timepiece.

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26/10/18 08:56

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5070P

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6.

Rolex – A rare, very fne, and highly attractive yellow gold
chronograph wristwatch

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1978

Reference No.

6263

Movement No.

5’329

Case No.

5’534’494

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Rolex buckle

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$70,000-140,000€60,800-122,000

Literature
An example of a yellow gold reference 6263 is illustrated in Ultimate
Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp. 368 and 369.

Something of an anomaly, a Rolex Daytona encased inprecious metal does not seem logical given the watch’s
intended sporting nature; coupled with a higher price tag
than the steel variants, the gold models originally did notsell well. Research suggests 100 gold references 6263 were
produced annually over its life span of twenty years, leading
to approximately 2,000 examples believed to have been

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 30

manufactured. Thus with time, the gold variant of the6263 and its companion piece, the metal bezel reference
6265, have become highly collectible not only for theirrarity, but their diverse visual appeal in contrast to themore abundant stainless steel Daytona.
The present watch is fresh-to-the-market, consigned by
the descendant of its original owner. With its robust 18K
yellow gold case and screw-down pushers, it combines
both utilitarian form with refned style. This motif
continues on the dial, featuring the sporty chronographlayout typical of a Rolex Daytona, but accented byshimmering gold subdials, text, and outer seconds track.
The gold hands and indices along with the applied gold
coronet compliment the watch. Its appeal is further
accentuated by the matching cream-colored luminousplots and hands all set on the eye-catching black dial.
Its well-preserved original bezel and pushers, as well as
its strong case proportions result in a highly attractive
example for the connoisseur.
Today, the gold Daytona is sought afer for its versatility
and unmistakable aesthetic – whether for therecreational sportsman or accomplished businessman –make it suitable for any occasion. It is a design that has
become an iconic standard in the 21st century, and thisattractive, single owner example makes it a fne addition
to any collection of timepieces.

26/10/18 08:57

ROLEX
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 31

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1. Wimbledon

7.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare andimportant pink gold minute repeating
perpetual calendar wristwatch with
tourbillon, retrograde date, moon phase,
Breguet numerals, additional hardback, certifcate of origin, andpresentation box

Purists have always considered Patek Philippe thepinnacle of master crafsmanship as their complicatedtimepieces are grail watches to own for importantcollections. Since the early 1940s when the reference
1526 was released, there has been a long and prestigious
line of watches that elicit awe and inspiration, fromthe 3448 perpetual calendar wristwatch, to the iconic
perpetual calendar chronographs, 1518 and 2499, as
well as early minute repeating models like the reference
2419. These timepieces are mechanical works of art,
which have a functional purpose, and they are a joy tolook at the intricacies and quality of their movements.
Released in 1993, the reference 5016 was the mostmodern complicated watch produced by the frm witha minute repeating, perpetual calendar, tourbillon
movement, until Patek Philippe released the Sky Moon
Tourbillon (5002) in 2001. Produced in yellow, whiteand rose gold, as well as platinum the watches featured
silvered or black dials. It is believed that approximately
200 examples were manufactured until production
ended in 2011.

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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 33

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1. Wimbledon

7.

Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and important pink gold minute repeating
perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon, retrograde date, moonphase, Breguet numerals, additional hard caseback, certifcate of origin, andpresentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

Circa 2011

Reference No.

5016R

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. RTO 27 PS QR, 28 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$300,000-700,000 Σ€261,000-608,000

The present example is fresh-to-the-market from theoriginal owner and in near new condition, complete withoriginal certifcate of origin, presentation box and additional
hard case back. The dial features a rare retrograde datesector, which Patek Philippe featured on a few selectreferences including 5050, 5059, 5159 and 5160. The minuterepeating function has an exceptional tone and fullness.
The reference 5016 is a wristwatch that embodies all themaster qualities one expects from Patek Philippe, with aclassic design and complicated movement it is a legendary
wristwatch that many adore, but few can own.

Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated May 19, 2011, andsigned by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, Rate Accuracy Certifcate
For Patek Philippe Tourbillon Watches dated January 24, 2011, wooden
ftted presentation box, additional 18K pink gold hard caseback, 18K
pink gold setting pin, leather portfolio, product literature with glossy
photograph, box key, and outer packaging

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26/10/18 08:57

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5016R

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1. Wimbledon

8.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with
Breguet numerals and tachymeter scale, retailed by Tifany & Co.

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1946

Reference No.

130

Movement No.

863’873, further stamped “HOX”

Case No.

646’766

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 13”, 23 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

14K yellow gold Tifany & Co. link bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

14K yellow gold Tifany & Co. folding clasp,with initials “AK” engraved, stamped “14K C+B
Tifany & Co.”

Dimensions

33mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed. Dial
additionally signed Tifany & Co., bracelet signed
Tifany & Co.

Estimate$40,000-70,000 O€34,700-60,800

Literature
Examples of reference 130 are described and illustrated in Patek
Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe - Volume II, pp. 262-265.

In the 1920s, Patek Philippe began to notice a surge in the
demand for chronograph wristwatches. At the beginning,some very limited series and unique pieces were created,mostly powered by a Victorin Piguet ébauche. By the 1930s,
it was clear that a serially produced model was necessary
to satisfy demand. Launched in 1934, the reference 130 ispowered by a heavily modifed Valjoux movement, and iseasily recognizable due to its slightly curved, elongated lugs
and thin bezel. The model was extremely successful andremained in production until at least 1964. Even though it
was manufactured for close to 30 years, output was quite

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_36.indd 36

limited, resulting in a total of about 1500 pieces produced.
It was ofered in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel(though other metals or combinations of metals have beenused for special request pieces). The current example’s 18
karat yellow gold case was manufactured by Emile Vichet,signifed by the number 9 inside a key stamped to the innercase back.
Fresh-to-the-market, the present reference 130 is further
enhanced by its dial featuring beautiful Breguet numerals
and the prestigious “Tifany & Co.” retailer signature on thedial. There are 72 total examples known to feature Breguet
numerals, and only 10 examples of a reference 130 with Tifany& Co. signature have graced the auction market. As would
make sense for a watch sold to an American retailer, “HOX”
is stamped on the movement: the American import code for
Patek Philippe watches.
The watch still bears a crisply engraved name to its case back,with corresponding initials on the clasp of the bracelet – andresearch indicates a remarkable original owner. Usually,
these names cannot be tied back defnitively to a specifc
owner. In this case however, the original owner was likely
one Arthur Knorr, born in Indiana at the turn of the century.
Though he started as a commercial artist designing posters
and advertisements for local theaters, he quickly gained
recognition for his artistry and skill. His work ethic and passion
for the performing arts led to his being appointed producer,
designer, and director for an array of theatrical performances
including Broadway shows, the White House Correspondents
Dinner, and the Miss America and Miss Universe pageants. A
highly desirable reference, stunning dial, prestigious Tifany& Co. retailer signature, and fascinating original owner makes
this a standout example of a reference 130 that is certain todelight any collector of vintage timepieces.

02/11/18 16:54

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 130

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1. Wimbledon

9.

Richard Mille – A rare and very fne titanium tourbillon wristwatch withfunction selector, power reserve and torque indication with presentation boxes

Manufacturer

Richard MilleYear

Circa 2007

Reference No.

RM002-V2

Movement No.

024

Case No.

286

Material

Titanium

CalibreManual, cal. 002-V2, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Rubber

Clasp/Buckle

Titanium Richard Mille buckle

Dimensions

45mm Length

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$110,000-150,000€95,500-130,000
Accessories
With Richard Mille Certifcate of Authenticity dated October 31st,2018, London, Richard Mille black leather presentation box, service
invoice dated October 17, 2010 and outer packaging.

Richard Mille announced his frst watch, the RM001 Tourbillon,
in 2000 and has ever since remained true to three key
concepts driving the passion, which helped redefne modern
horology: the best technical innovations, the best artistry andarchitecture with the best heritage and fne watchmaking
crafsmanship. Mille sought to create wristwatches that were
21st century masterpieces, employing cutting edge materials
and techniques, but remaining steeped in traditional Swiss
watchmaking. Two industries infuencing his designs weremotorsports and the aerospace industry. Developed together
with Audemars Piguet’s complication specialist, Renaud etPapi, the RM001 was a futuristic, high-tech wristwatch with

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_lot 9.indd 38

a decidedly Formula One racecar vibe. The watch was unlike anyother - sleek and aerodynamic and made with a titanium case andbaseplate, it was shockingly lightweight, inverting the notion thata luxury watch must be heavy. Within a year, Mille upgraded themodel to the RM002.
Released in 2002, the RM002 manually-wound tourbillon is a featof engineering and technology and makes a closer connection
to automotive racing with the inclusion of a gear like function
selector. Prominently displayed between the 4 and 5 positions,the function selector is changed through a button in the crown,
similar to the gearbox, the watch can be set to H (Hands) for time
selection, N (Neutral) normal running time and W (Winding) for
winding. The torque indicator runs between 0 and 65 with red
indicator, a reading below 53dNmm indicates the mainspringis too slack and over 65dNmm indicting excessive tension on
the mainspring. The RM002-V2 was the second evolution of
the model. It incorporated a movement baseplate made of acomposite carbon nanofber with grey PVD coating, enabling
greater structural rigidity for improved shock resistance. Visible
through the sapphire crystal dial, the carbon nanofber baseplate
is not only functional, but also visually appealing.
The present watch is in excellent overall condition with a micro
blasted titanium case, and with its signature tonneau-shaped
case, is unmistakably recognizable as a Richard Mille watch.
Today, the brand has created many exceptional watches that
all exude the qualities that Richard Mille set forth when he frst
launched the collection at the turn of the 21st century. He hasbrought many variations and complications to watches that fuelcollector excitement and interest, but early examples like thisRM002-V2 can be considered modern classics that superbly
defne the bridge between the past and the present.

02/11/18 16:53

RICHARD MILLE
RM002-V2

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1. Wimbledon

10.
Rolex – A very rare and exceptionallywell-preserved yellow gold dual time
wristwatch with bronze color dial,
Bakelite bezel, and bracelet

Rolex’s GMT-Master is one of the brand’s most iconic
and well-known tool watches, so much so that nearly
65 years since its launch in 1954, it still remains in
production, with even contemporary models being
extremely sought afer. Developed in partnership withPan American airlines, the watch incorporated a simple
and ingenious way for long distance pilots to keep
track of multiple time zones simultaneously. The modelfeatured a fourth central hand used in conjunction
with a rotating Bakelite bezel, with luminous 24-hourindication, in order for pilots to keep track of both
home time and local time. The reference 6542 was
the brand’s frst dual time zone wristwatch and has
become one of the most desirable timepieces available
on the market today. While the luminous Bakelitebezel was an innovative design feature, it proved to be
unpractical due to the fragile nature of the Bakelite andtherefore, with the next generation of the GMT-Master,
the reference 1675 introduced in 1960, the bezel was
replaced with a metal version, and crown guards wereintroduced to reduce the accidental risk of damaging
the winding crown.
The present example is one of the fnest and bestpreserved examples of a gold reference 6542 to beofered at auction in recent years. The majority of thereference 6542 were manufactured in stainless steel,with very few examples produced in yellow gold. This
metal rarity, along with its exceptional condition,
makes this timepiece a must have for connoisseurs of
mid-20th century tool watches. It is made even more
impressive as it is totally fresh-to-market, consignedby the grandson of the original owner - Louis Arledge
Peacock (1895-1972). Peacock was an accomplishedmarine civil engineer who spent his lifetime working
on marine construction projects around the globe.
A University of Georgia engineering student, Louis
withdrew from school to fght in World War I, where
he enlisted in the First Florida Infantry and saw action
in France with the 31st Division. Upon his release on
July 22, 1919, he returned to the United States andbegan an extraordinary career in marine construction.
First with the St. Paul frm Seims-Helmers Inc, he wasconstruction supervisor for the famed cantilevered
Huey P. Long bridge in Jeferson Parish, Louisiana,
opening in December 1935. He also worked on other

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10.

Rolex – A very rare and exceptionally well-preserved yellow gold dual time
wristwatch with bronze color dial, Bakelite bezel, and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1958

Reference No.

6542

Movement No.

N754’726

Case No.

367’392

Model Name

GMT-Master

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1065, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet,
end links stamped 65, max length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
2.58, inscribed “Louis A. Peacock”

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$100,000-200,000€86,900-174,000
Accessories
Accompanied with photograph of the original owner wearing thewatch at The Roosevelt, New Orleans, along with accompanying
biographical documents.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 42

well-known projects like the Rickenbacker Causeway in Miami,
and the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway Bridge, which since
1969 has been noted as the longest bridge over water in theworld. Throughout his lifetime Louis worked on numerous
large-scale construction projects including work on new oil
rig types in the oil felds of Lake Maracaibo Venezuela, andprojects in the Dominican Republic. In the 1940s, he was
employed by Morrison Knudsen General Contractors of Boise
Idaho, and by 1994 he was named Vice President and General
Manager of an M-K subsidiary Portland Tug & Barge Company
and Marine Contractors.
It is not known when Mr. Armenaki purchased the present
watch, however it dates to 1958, and a 1963 image of Louis, hiswife Helen and daughter Mattie Lou, shows him wearing thewatch for a formal awards-ceremony event at the Roosevelt
Hotel in New Orleans. In exceptionally well-preserved
condition, this reference 6542 is a collectors dream – alloriginal and unpolished, with crisp 18K yellow gold case,original riveted Oyster bracelet, and Bakelite bezel. The watch
has a stunning light bronze color dial, which is fawless andoriginal. The taut bracelet features the “Big Rolex” logo on its
folding blades, adding to the collectability of the timepiece.
The GMT-Master is a watch that over the years has become an
icon of the horological world, ofering practicality, durability,
wearability and a classic aesthetic perfectly matched forboth business and casual wear. This watch ofers a uniqueperspective into the world of Rolex tool watches, as well as thelife and times of an accomplished American engineer and war
veteran who clearly treasured his fne timepiece.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6542 GMT-Master

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2. Goodwood
Revving up your track-side attire

With F1 becoming an increasingly sanitised and predictable techfest, interest in historic racing has been rocketing of late. Part ofthis comes down to the cars’ performance limitations making thewhole thing more accessible, more ‘real’, but arguably, the driving
force of this automotive nostalgia comes down to classic cars
simply having more soul. The same might be said for classically
elegant menswear, which makes picking out your attire for themother of all historic car events - the Goodwood Revival – one oflife’s great pleasures.
This three-day event, each September, sees the celebrated West
Sussex circuit and its surrounds become a microcosm of Britain
in the period that was Goodwood’s heyday as a motorsport
destination: 1948-1966. Strictly speaking, should you wish to
blend in with the 300 actors and actresses in full vintage regalia
mingling with the masses, you’ll opt for period clothing from thattimeline – a little tricky, given that post-war rationing was a major
infuence on menswear at the start of it, counter-revolutionary
craziness by the end of it (don’t be surprised to fnd fghter pilots
and mods mingling with a host of cravated, tweed- clad country
sports types).
The choice, when dressing for Goodwood Revival – an occasion onwhich you’ll encounter fannels and tweeds, pleats and turtlenecks,
brogues, braces and bell-bottoms - is pretty much limitless. Sufce
to say, sprezzatura with a nod to decades past, and perhaps asubtle automotive slant (up to a point - driving goggles would beover-egging the pudding) will prove ft for purpose…

Lots 11 to 20
Part vintage car rally, part costume festival – the Goodwood
Festival of Speed is a celebration of the petrolhead, past andpresent. Expect to see a clash of post-war conservatism withthe curves and fair of mid-century design. Chronographs withtachymeter scales are ubiquitous here, used to calculate speed
over distance. Whether from the great triumvirate of watchmaking– Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – orthe utilitarian Rolex and Heuer, these watches evoke the headysmell of motor oil and burnt rubber. A Heuer Autavia celebrated
for its association with Formula One driver Jochen Rindt is a nobrainer selection; less obvious but no less appropriate is a pinkgold Patek Philippe chronograph with tastefully extravagant lugs
and hard enamel tachymeter scale. Stylish spectators coolly timelaps with oversized, motorsport-themed watches such as a RoyalOak Ofshore “Juan Pablo Montoya”, while the best drivers in theworld risk everything for a taste of victory.

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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 45

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2. Goodwood

Mr Porter’s lookLot 20Omega. Seamaster 300 reference ST 165.024
delivered to the British Royal Army, stainlesssteel, circa 1967

Tod’s President and CEO Diego Della Valle refers to hisbrand’s staple product, the loafer - or simple drivingmoccasin - as ‘Gloves For The Feet’. And these are not the
only item here ofering supreme comfort, with Brunello
Cucinelli's cashmere-lined gloves (also technicallydesigned for driving) ofering similar tactility, as does
the Italian-made, wool roll-neck sweater in merlot from
Dunhill (a British brand whose motoring credentials goback to the late 19th Century, when it produced car horns
and lamps, leather overcoats, goggles and picnic sets for
London’s then tiny community of motorists).
A peaked cap – this one was made in Parma in Italy,
despite the self-consciously British brand name‘Anderson’s’ - ofers another jaunty automotive touch
here. Also paying heed to the turning of the seasonaltides around Revival time is a study, fur-lined bomberstyle jacket from Italian luxury goods brand Bottega
Veneta. Wool-fannel cargo trousers by Brunello Cucinelli
complete a guise that’ll help you blend in with thehardcore petrol-heads in the paddocks.

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Jacket by Brunello Cucinelli
Sweater by Dunhill
Trousers by Brunello Cucinelli
Shoes by Tod’s

26/10/18 09:04

The Rake’s lookLot 15
Heuer. Reference 2446H “Jochen Rindt”,
stainless steel, circa 1966

The waterproof weave raincoat here, made by a brand
named afer Cornish missionary and explorer Sir William
Grenfell, is aimed at motorists on two-wheeled steeds:
hence its name, the Despatch Rider’s Coat. With its
fur-lined collar, though, it serves just as well battling theelements in a roofess Lotus-Climax 18 or Aston Martin
Project 212, or indeed watching those beasts fromyesteryear tearing up the Tarmac from the stands.
A great match with this are the simple, pleated khaki
trousers from Anderson & Sheppard, who can also takecredit for the cosy merino roll-neck seen here (lest weforget, Autumn is creeping up on us by the time ofthis event). Meanwhile, windowpane check tweed is aloyal regular at Revival, and this jacket from Edinburgh
outftters Walker Slater will pay dividends on the layering
front, as well as looking markedly in situ: driving gloves
from Omega SRL, glasses from Commando boots from
Gaziano & Girling complete the look.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 47

Coat by Grenfell
Roll neck by Anderson & Sheppard
Jacket by Walker Slater
Trousers by Anderson & Sheppard
Boots by Gaziano & Girling

26/10/18 09:04

2. Goodwood

11.

Breitling – A well-preserved and very rare stainless steel chronographwristwatch with black dial and oversized 15-minute register

Manufacturer

Breitling

Year

1967

Reference No.

765 CP

Case No.

1’140’820

Model Name

Co-Pilot, “Raquel Welch”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. Venus 178, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

41mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement signed.

Estimate$8,000-12,000€6,900-10,400
Accessories
Accompanied by spare, period-correct bezel.

Established in 1884, Breitling is best known for their aviationrelated timepieces such as the iconic Navitimer. But the
manufacturer was an early pioneer in the development ofwristwatch chronographs, with their innovative tool watches
supplying armed forces worldwide, as well as timepieces for
racing, diving, and leisure activities. The Breitling 765 Co-Pilot
was created, as its name suggests, for airplane pilots, who

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benefted from an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock
and twelve hour rotating bezel. The Co-Pilot replaced anearlier reference 765 “Digital” that featured a digital minutes
counter at 3 o’clock and incorporated an oversized minutecounter ftted with large luminous indicators at each threeminute increment. Legibility in low light conditions andaccuracy were paramount in the creation of this Co-Pilot, andit was eventually even adopted for military use.
As always, a watch benefts from celebrity association, andthe 765 Co-Pilot boasts not just one, but two strong celebrity
endorsements: Jean-Claude Killy, the famous Swiss alpine
ski racer, and Raquel Welch, the prominent mid-century
actress and sex symbol who wore a 765 Co-Pilot in the James
Bond spoof movie, Fathom (1967). Though it was anothermanufacture that endorsed Killy and led to his name being
attached to a specifc reference, it is the Breitling 765 Co-Pilot
that was photographed on Killy’s wrist afer he won all threegold medals in alpine skiing at the 1968 Winter Olympics in
Grenoble, France.
The present 765 Co-Pilot shares the same movement as
the more well-known Navitimer, the Venus 178, and can beconsidered one of the best preserved Co-Pilots to cometo market in recent memory. The stainless steel case iscompletely unpolished, and the bezel is in extremely crisp andunblemished condition.

26/10/18 09:05

BREITLING
Ref. 765 Co-Pilot “Raquel Welch”

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2. Goodwood

12.

Rolex – A highly attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with “mark 1”
dial, faded bezel, and bracelet, accompanied with presentation box, guarantee,
booklets, and hang tag

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1969

Reference No.

1680

Movement No.

D’361’740

Case No.

2’154’167, inner caseback stamped II.69

Model Name

Submariner Date, “Red Sub”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference
9315, end links stamped 280, max length 230mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

4-70

Estimate$15,000-25,000€13,000-21,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex inner and outer boxes, punched guarantee,
product literature, small leather wallet, hang tag, and silver anchor.

The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not
only can it be considered the benchmark for all future
diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly
following devoted to every nuance and variation from its frst
appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the presentday. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in

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1967 and was the frst Submariner model ftted with adate function (likely generating a fery debate about
date windows that continues to burn brightly in thewatch community).
Of the seven diferent iterations of “Red Submariner”
dials, established by the collecting community, thepresent example is ftted with a rare and exceptional
Mark I “meters frst” dial, with closed “6”, overhanging“f” in the depth rating, and the red lettering ofSubmariner printed over white. Both the luminous
material on the dial and the dial itself have aged
beautifully, with the luminous material acquiring
a delightful warm patina, and the dial remaining
untouched and uniform. The case is presented inoutstanding, original condition, having never seen apolishing and with all of its original factory fnishing,curves, bevels, and contours present.
The “Red Sub” is the ideal contender for a one watch
collection – subtle enough not to draw attention, butwith a fash of fair with the red “Submariner” print to
add interest. It is ideal for the boardroom, a weekend
in the country, or an evening out. Not only is this an
attractive and stunningly preserved example of a
coveted reference, but it comes complete with all of its
original accessories including punched guarantee papers– a rare opportunity for the elite collector.

02/11/18 16:49

ROLEX
Ref. 1680 “Red” Submariner“Mark 1” Dial

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02/11/18 16:50

2. Goodwood

13.
Rolex – A very fne and historicallyimportant stainless steel chronographwristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial,
awarded to LeeRoy Yarbrough, winner ofthe Daytona 500 in 1969
Originally introduced as the Cosmograph without the“Daytona” nickname and signature, the now legendary
Rolex chronograph faced an identity crisis in its frst few
years on the market. In 1964, Rolex advertised its latest
chronograph as the “Le Mans” in reference to the prestigious
French endurance race. Yet in 1965, in what was most likely astrategic move to capture the budding American motorsport
market, Rolex changed the model’s name once more andadvertised it as the “Daytona,” this time delineating theorigins of the name to the Daytona International Speedway
where races such as the 24 Hours of Daytona (now known as
the Rolex 24 at Daytona) and the Daytona 500 have takenplace since 1959.
The present lot underscores the legendary Daytona model’s
racing pedigree as it is the earliest known Rolex Daytona
ofered as a prize to the winner of any Daytona race. Aferbeing awarded to Lonnie “LeeRoy” Yarbrough by Rolex in
the summer afer his Daytona 500 win, he wore it during
competition as seen in multiple photographs; most notably,
it is visible on his wrist during his American 500 win in 1969.
During his relatively brief racing career, Yarbrough set
numerous records on the Grand National stock car circuit,earning him laudatory titles such as “American Driver of theYear” and “Ford’s Man of the Year.” His fascination with carsbegan while working at a garage in Jacksonville and quickly
progressed to racing the backroads of west Jacksonville(much to the chagrin of local police). Along the way, hegained a following of local kids and befriended the likes offellow west Jacksonville native Ronnie Van Zant, a founding
member of Lynyrd Skynyrd. At 16, afer dropping out of highschool, LeeRoy claimed his frst victory at the Jacksonville
Speedway in his own 1933 Ford street roadster and by 1960
had started his NASCAR career in the Sportsman Division– alow ranking circuit featuring full-sized NASCAR tracks.
Afer winning a number of short-track races in the mid1960s, Yarbrough’s career only saw moderate success in
the latter half of the decade. In 1969, however, Yarbroughclimbed to the top of NASCAR in what would become oneof the greatest racing seasons in NASCAR history. Behind
the wheel of his Junior Johnson Ford Torino Talladega, hestrung together victories at the coveted Daytona 500,
the World 600, and the Southern 500. These wins, in one
season, at NASCAR’s “richest” race, “longest” race, and

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Copyright Bryant McMurray

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2. Goodwood

13.

Rolex – A very fne and historically important stainless steel chronographwristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial, awarded to LeeRoy Yarbrough, winner ofthe Daytona 500 in 1969

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1967

Reference No.

6239

Case No.

1’781’925

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet, max
length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
C.10

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$150,000-300,000€130,000-261,000
Accessories
Accompanied with printed email statement from Rolex USA
verifying the sale and delivery of this watch to the Daytona
International Speedway in 1969.

“oldest” race, respectively, gave Mr. Yarbrough the elusive“Triple Crown” title – and the added bonus of being the frst
person to accomplish such a feat. Only two other drivers haveever completed the Triple Crown: Bill Elliot and Jef Gordon.
His historic 1969 season ended with a total of seven Grand
National wins, earning him a then NASCAR season winnings
record of $188,609.
Following this string of impressive victories, Yarbrough’s
racing career would come to an end in the early 1970s afera series of unfortunate crashes. His watch, presented here
for the frst time publicly, ensures that his memory will not
be forgotten. Having fallen on hard times afer his racing
career, Yarbrough pawned the watch at a local Jacksonville

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 54

pawnbroker in the late 1970s or early 1980s. The pawnbroker
immediately recognized Yarbrough, and knew exactly who would beinterested in purchasing a watch steeped in racing lore. The fatherof the consignor of the present lot was a self-described “car man”,
having spent most of his life racing and selling cars. A “greaser” in the
1950s, the consignor’s father would regularly drag race on the beachat Daytona to earn extra money and had followed Yarbrough’s careerfrom its beginning. Afer receiving the call from the pawnbroker, theconsignor’s father immediately went over to the location on the westside of Jacksonville and purchased the watch. It has remained in thesame family ever since. According to the consignor, his father addeda Rolex Jubliee bracelet in the mid 1970s and only wore it a handful oftimes, having spent most of its life in a drawer.
In researching this watch, numerous photos of Yarbrough wearing
this exact watch were found, including the photo shown here.
Combined with an emailed statement from Rolex USA written in2016 that confrms its sale and delivery to the Daytona International
Speedway in 1969, its provenance is extraordinary.
Apart from the present example’s historically important provenance,
it is inherently collectible, featuring a gorgeous “Paul Newman”
exotic dial with the highly sought afer tricolor confguration.
The exceptionally well-preserved dial is vibrant, and exhibits thedelightful “sing-a-song”-style “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clockthat is so sought afer today.
The importance of the present lot, therefore, cannot be overstated.
It’s a watch that brings together the most famous watch brand, withits most sought afer model, ftted with the most desirable dial, andgiven to arguably the best NASCAR driver of the 1960s for winning
the 1969 Daytona 500.
This extraordinary Paul Newman Daytona originally lived an exciting
life as part of its daring owner’s racing success, before it would be
stored away for decades. An ultimate trophy watch for collectors,
Phillips is thrilled to ofer it at auction for the frst time.

26/10/18 09:07

ROLEX
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona“Paul Newman”

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2. Goodwood

14.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare
and highly attractive stainless steel
chronograph wristwatch with two-tone
silvered dial with outer tachymeter scale

Within the vintage collecting community, there aretrophy timepieces considered to be the pinnacle ofany collection, and the Patek Philippe reference 1463
chronograph is worthy of this designation. In stainlesssteel, it would be the crown jewel. Released in 1941 andproduced for the next 25 years, the model was the frst
and only waterproof chronograph wristwatch produced
by Patek Philippe (aside from the ultra rare references
1536 and 3651) before the 1990s. Despite the longproduction run in all metals, it is believed that only 750
total examples were produced, with the vast majority inyellow gold, and less than 10% in stainless steel.
One can say that the reference 1463 was Patek Philippe’s
frst “sports utility” wristwatch – a chronographcombining luxury with capabilities for the outdoors. It
comes as little surprise that it became the preferredwatch for the rising elite, including Briggs Cunningham- an American entrepreneur and sportsman, who raced
automobiles and yachts. Featured on the cover of Time
Magazine in April 1954 and a member of the Motorsports
Hall of Fame and America’s Cup Hall of Fame, he owned astainless steel reference 1463 with black dial.

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2. Goodwood

14.

Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive stainlesssteel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial with outer
tachymeter scale

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1946

Reference No.

1463

Movement No.

863’843

Case No.

640’551

Model Name

“Tasti Tondi”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 13’’’, 23 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$300,000-500,000 O€261,000-434,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1946 and its
subsequent sale on 4 February 1947.
Literature
For another example of a reference 1463 in stainless steel withapplied elongated baton indexes and Arabic numerals, please see
John Goldberger’s Patek Philippe Steel Watches, pp. 280-281.

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The watch was especially robust and was especiallysuitable for industrial use in scientifc and medical
environments due to a second inner case which shielded
the movement against magnetism. Each featured a tensided screw back case and playful rounded chronographpushers, known as “Tasti Tondi” in Italian. Notably, thecases of the reference 1463 in steel were manufactured
by famed case maker Taubert & Fils, as seen in the F.B.
(for François Borgel, Taubert’s predecessor company
name) stamp on the inside caseback.
The present example features a sublime, two-tone
silvered dial with outer polished chapter ring andtachymeter, and inner silvered matte dial with elongatedwhite gold baton indexes and Arabic numerals. Of the
67 known examples of the reference 1463 in steel, only 8
are known to have this dial variation, making it extremelyrare and highly sought afer. The joy of collecting thisparticular reference are the various dial iterations
implemented throughout the twenty year production
period and the rarer dial, the more desirable the watch.
Preserved in exceptional condition for the better part ofa century, this stunning reference 1463 is sure to delightthe distinguished collector.

26/10/18 09:07

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 1463 “Two-Tone Tasti Tondi”

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2. Goodwood

15.

Heuer – A very fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with
contrasting subdials

Manufacturer

Heuer

Year

Circa 1966

Case No.

96’149Model Name

Autavia, “Jochen Rindt”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. Valjoux 72, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000€10,400-15,600

Literature
For a similar example see Heuer Autavia Chronographs 1962-85,
Richard Crosthwaite & Paul Gavin, pg. 66-67.

The present lot stands out with its exceptional condition,and features a stunning matte black dial with contrasting
crisp white subsidiary registers, and sports the narrower, yetrobust, rotating bezel calibrated for twelve hours, perfect foreither counting elapsed time or tracking a second time zone.
The attractive dial is noteworthy for being manufactured bySinger, who famously created the dials for the coveted Rolex“Paul Newman” Daytona. Furthermore, the dial features arare “Fab Suisse” designation at 6 o’clock, an interesting andunusual detail found only on watches originally sold in France.
The rugged yet refned second execution example,
characterized by its screwdown caseback and streamlined
beveled lugs, measures a hefy 39mm in diameter (and13mm in thickness) and is a favorite of the Heuer collecting
community. In fact, it was selected amongst 16 Autavia
examples as the inspiration for the new TAG Heuer Autavia
launched in 2017.

One of the most coveted of the many Autavia models, thereference 2446H was especially favored by its namesake,the rakish Formula One champion, Jochen Rindt, who was
documented wearing this specifc reference in numerous
photographs throughout his career. He was a prolifc racing
driver in the 1960s until his untimely death during thepractice session at Monza for the 1970 Italian Grand Prix.
Supported by his beautiful wife Nina, who famously sporteda Universal Genève Compax, now known to collectors as the“Nina Rindt”, this glamorous couple remains the only one
where each partner’s name was bestowed to a watch bycollectors.

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HEUER
Ref. 2446H Autavia “Jochen Rindt”

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2. Goodwood

16.

Audemars Piguet – A rare and well-preserved limited edition titanium
chronograph wristwatch with date and tachymeter bezel, numbered 31 of 1000,
accompanied with boxes, papers, and original guarantee

Manufacturer

Audemars Piguet

Year

2004

Reference No.

26030IO.OO.D001IN.01

Case No.

F 23757, numbered 31/1000

Model NameRoyal Oak Ofshore Juan Pablo Montoya

Material

Titanium, carbon inserts

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 2226, 54 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp

Dimensions

52mm length case, maximum length 220mm

SignedCase, dial, movement, strap, and clasp signed.

Estimate$18,000-36,000€15,600-31,300

Accessories
Accompanied by Audemars Piguet ftted presentation box, productliterature, and original paperwork.

Colombian-born Juan Pablo Montoya entered the world of
motorsports at an early age, encouraged by his father who
taught him the basics of go-karting. From these beginnings,
Montoya began his career in F300 and Formula One testing in
1997, and made his Formula One debut in 2001. He competedat the Formula One level until 2006, where he made the switch
to compete in the NASCAR circuit. In 2007, he won the Rolex
24 at the Daytona International Speedway, winning it again
in 2008 and 2013. He remains one of only two racecar drivers,
alongside Mario Andretti, to achieve victory in Formula One,the Indianapolis 500, and the 24 Hours of Daytona. This is justone of numerous accolades that have catapulted him to being
named one of the best Formula One drivers of all time.

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Of course, collectors will know very well the close relationshipbetween motorsports and horology, and with its sportier RoyalOak Ofshore line, Audemars Piguet sought to add their name tothe list of manufactures devoted to creating watches aligned with
racing. The Royal Oak Ofshore Limited Edition Juan Pablo Montoya
was frst released in 2004 in pink gold, platinum, and titanium. The
titanium version was released in a limited series of one thousand. It’sa noteworthy model as it was the frst signifcant departure from thedesign of the earliest Ofshores, with its more aggressively-styled
rectangular pushers and use of an exhibition caseback for the frst
time. Early Ofshores can be especially recognized by their smaller,
round chronograph pushers coated in a fre-resistant elastomer
called “therban” that closely resembles rubber.
With its “grand tapisserie” dial and motorsports-inspired caseconstruction, the Royal Oak Ofshore Juan Pablo Montoya ushered ina new era for Audemars Piguet’s luxury sports watch category. Most
notably, the classic eight screws at the bezel have been replaced withscrews resembling the lug nuts of a motor vehicle. The inclusion of atachymeter scale on the rehaut further harkens to the motorsports
inspiration. The “grand tapisserie” dial, seen on many Royal Oak
Ofshores, has an added fair with the subtle motif of a waving racing
fag. Combining brash masculinity and sublime mechanics, carbon
fber inserts to the case and bezel belie the beautifully fnishedautomatic caliber 2226, a modifed Jaeger-LeCoultre ébauche.
The present lot is presented in “new old stock” condition, with nosigns of wear, and complete with its original box, paperwork, andguarantee – a true time capsule piece for the connoisseur.

02/11/18 16:48

AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Ofshore“Juan Pablo Montoya”

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2. Goodwood

17.

Rolex – A well-preserved and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith dark grey dial and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1965

Reference No.

6238

Case No.

1’206’586

Model Name

“Pre-Daytona”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 722, 17 jewels, further stamped “ROW”

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet, max
overall length 220mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 79

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000€26,100-43,400

Rolex’s reference 6238 manual wound chronographwristwatch was both the end of an era for the brand, and the
beginning of something new, which would go on in the ensuing
years to become one of their most successful wristwatches
ever. The reference 6238 became known as the “pre-Daytona”
because following this model, Rolex removed the tachymeterscale from the dial and added it to the bezel, which not only
opened up the watch dial, making it more readable, but also
giving the watch a less cluttered modern aesthetic. Also
incorporating contrasting sub-dials, the new reference 6239
released in 1963 was the frst in a long line of models thattoday are iconic wristwatches that are all known today as the“Cosmograph Daytona”. The reference 6238 was produced fora short period from the early 1960s until 1967 and produced instainless steel and yellow gold.

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What makes this reference 6238 exceptional is its
extremely rare dark grey colored dial – by far the rarest
dial variant used for these “pre-Daytona” chronographs
according to scholarship. Featuring a radiant sunburst
pattern, its stunning dial has luminous hour markers andhands that have aged to a pleasing yellow hue. Not only is it
ftted with a highly sought afer dial, the present reference6238’s case is very well-preserved, with a sharp bezel
and strongly defned lugs. Collectors today seek vintage
timepieces that not only are in excellent condition, but also
have a historical context in the evolution of wristwatches.
This “pre-Daytona” reference 6238 is a top quality example
and one of the fnest to appear at auction – a trophy watch
for the savvy collector.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 65

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2. Goodwood

18.

Patek Philippe – A very attractive and rare pink gold chronograph wristwatchwith “spider” lugs and tachymeter scale

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1944

Reference No.

1579

Movement No.

863’509

Case No.

638’746

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 13”’, 23 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial and movement signed.

Estimate$80,000-140,000 Σ O€69,500-122,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch with tachometer scale in 1944 andits subsequent sale on March 8th, 1946.

20th century. Released in 1943 at Basel and in production
until 1964, the 36mm diameter Wenger case with faceted
downturned lugs and rectangular chronograph buttons has
an unconventional look that remains sophisticated with an
elegant appeal. The Valjoux ébauche was fnished to thehighest standards at Patek Philippe’s workshop and today
it is known as the caliber 13”’, one of the fnest manual
chronograph movements of its era.
The present watch is very well-preserved and a lovely
example of the model. The case’s lugs, edges, andangles remain sharp and the case hallmark on the lug iscrisp. The dial is stunning, with its raised hard enamel
printing perfectly preserved, and while the timepiece was
manufactured in 1944, the watch was not sold until 1946
with the short brand signature, as one would expect for theperiod. The reference was made with two diferent series ofStern Frères-fabricated dials:• 1st series from 1943 to 1949: Arabic and baton numerals,
baton or feuille hands, such as the present watch

Collectors of vintage Patek Philippe chronographs are mostfamiliar with the frm’s landmark references: 130, 533, 591,
1463, 530 and 1579. The latter takes a somewhat uniqueposition in this family, as it is the only model featuring
fanciful lugs in the shape of briolette diamonds. Thanks
to these unusual faceted lugs, the reference 1579 is also
referred to as the “spider” lug chronograph, and features
one of the most impressive case designs from the mid-

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 66• 2nd series from 1950 to 1964: Arabic and square numerals,
feuille hands
Patek Philippe’s oversized reference 1579 has a seductive
allure and is a watch that today can be comfortably wornin either a formal or casual environment. This watch will
attract all connoisseurs for its overall original condition andclassic timelessness.

26/10/18 09:09

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 1579

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2. Goodwood

19.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold limited edition annual calendar
wristwatch with moon phases, Breguet numerals, and original accessories, madeto commemorate the ffth anniversary of the Patek Philippe boutique at Tifany& Co. New York

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2013

Reference No.

5396G

Movement No.

5’695’654

Case No.

4’584’303

Material

18K white gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 324 S QA LU 24H, 34 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000 Σ€43,400-86,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin stampedby the Tifany & Co. Salon in New York, NY dated May 1st, 2013,
Patek Philippe box with outer Tifany & Co. box, setting pin,numbered sale tag, product literature, and leather wallet. Further
accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming manufacture of this watch in 2013 and its sale on March
12th, 2013.

Tifany & Co. is Patek Philippe’s longest serving retailer andpartner, having begun their relationship in 1847 and soon
formalizing it in 1851 when the company was known as
Tifany, Young & Ellis. At the time, Antoine Norbert de Patek
had set upon an extended business trip to the United States
to more frmly establish the brand’s presence in the U.S.
market, as the European economy was weakened following
the political and economic upheaval of 1848, sometimes
known as the People’s Spring. To ensure the success of

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 68

his young company, Patek needed to attract the wealthyclientele of the United States – and one of the best ways
to do that was to align Patek Philippe with a brand alreadyknown for exclusivity and excellence. Tifany & Co. would
represent Patek Philippe in the 1876 Centennial Exhibition in
Philadelphia, underscoring the trust between the two frms.
The earliest piece known from Patek Philippe to be soldthrough Tifany & Co. was delivered on December 31st, 1852,
a hunter case pendant watch with blue enamel guilloché
and diamond stars on the front and back covers. Since the1990s, Tifany & Co. remains the only retailer that is stillallowed to stamp their logo on the dial of Patek Philippe
watches. Throughout the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries,
much has changed, but the relationship between Tifany &Co. and Patek Philippe has only strengthened.
The present watch, the annual calendar reference 5396G,
was created to celebrate the fve year anniversary of Patek
Philippe’s boutique located inside the Tifany & Co. store on
5th Avenue in New York City. Incidentally, the Tifany & Co.
Patek Philippe boutique was also the brand’s frst boutiquein the United States. Tifany had asked Patek Philippe for
a complicated timepiece to mark this occasion, and on
the basis of their outstanding relationship, Patek Philippe
granted this most unusual request. Manufactured in 2012
and released in 2013 in a limited edition of 100 pieces, itfeatures three elements which set it apart from regular
production ref. 5396 models – a black dial, white gold
applied Breguet numerals, and of course, the Tifany and Co.
stamp on the moon phase indicator. Ofered as a complete
set in exceptionally well-preserved condition, it’s a rare andstunning limited edition model certain to delight any Patek
Philippe collector.

26/10/18 09:09

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5396G “Tifany & Co”

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2. Goodwood

20.

Omega – An extremely rare and historically important stainless steel divers
wristwatch with center seconds, fxed spring bars and special military markings,
made for the British Royal Army

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1967

Reference No.

ST 165.024

Movement No.

24’719’484

Case No.

A204/67

Model Name

Seamaster 300, “Military”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 552, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Nylon

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000€43,400-86,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Certifcate of Origin dated January 19th,
2006, noting the military markings on the caseback and stating thepresent watch was delivered to Omega’s UK agents on April 27th,
1967. Additionally accompanied by updated Omega Certifcate ofOrigin dated June 18, 2018, stating the watch was delivered to the
British Army.
LiteratureThis exact example, bearing the serial number 24’719’484, isillustrated in John Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 56-57.

Omega introduced the Seamaster 300 in 1957 as part of its“Professional” line of watches. Whilst the vast majority wasproduced for professional and recreational divers alike. Avery small batch was made for military use from 1967 until
approximately 1970, and custom designed by Omega to meetthe needs of members of the British Royal Army and Navy.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_16-71.indd 70

A number of special features set these military-issued watches
apart from Omega’s regular production units. Their cases, with
distinctive curved and beveled lugs, were delivered with fxed
spring bars. Dials featured an encircled “T” designation, signifying
the use of tritium for the luminous hour markers and hands. The
broad, sword-shaped hour and minute hands, as well as the angular
sweep seconds hand, were also specially designed. The crown
was screw down as opposed to the snap down design as found on
production versions. Their case backs were engraved by the British
Ministry of Defense with the military branch code, issue number,and year of issue.
As many were used in combat and on military deployments,
very few have survived with all factory military features intact.
We are therefore thrilled to ofer this piece in its full “mil-spec”
confguration. The “W10” designation indicates that this Seamaster
300 was issued especially to the British Royal Army, whereas the
majority of mil-spec watches that have appeared publicly were
issued to the Royal Navy. A handful of units in the Royal Army
were using dive watches in the late 1960s and early 1970s, mostsignifcantly the Special Air Service. The Special Air Service, orSAS, was and is an elite military unit that served as the model for
the United States Delta Force. During the period between 1967
and 1971, at the height of the Cold War, the SAS were known tobe active in various operations located in Aden (now the capitalof Yemen, but in the mid-1960s a part of the British Protectorateof South Arabia), Oman, and Northern Ireland. John Goldberger’s
Omega Sportswatches, prominently features this exact watch as
being issued to the British SAS, a further testament to its rarity andimportance.
Military watches have remained collectible for their tangible ties tohistoric moments and rugged good looks, and this Seamaster 300
is a wonderfully preserved, premium example for the elite collector.

26/10/18 09:10

OMEGA
Seamaster 300 “Military”“British Royal Army”

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3. Safari
If looks could thrill

There’s more to carrying of a Hemingway-esque level of safari
swagger than the requisite bush-friendly jacket: although
Roger Moore's legendary torso-wear in movies such as The
Man With The Golden Gun would add brio and fexibility to any
modern wardrobe.
The story of safari attire begins 150 years ago in colonial Kenya,with those now iconic jackets in crisp drill cotton with pockets,
buttons, epaulets and a belt becoming part of the British
military uniform for soldiers located in the tropics. Well-to-do
outdoorsman such as Teddy Roosevelt and Robert BadenPowell adopted the look in the early 20th Century, but it waslater that the aforementioned Hemingway caught on, alongwith Hollywood icons from Clark Gable to Johnny Weissmuller
via Grace Kelly. Yves Saint Laurent’s inclusion of safari jackets
in his collections cemented the garment’s role in the fashion
pantheon and the rest, as they say, is history.
The look has evolved: in the 1950s, the felt Borsalino replaced
the pith helmet as the go to headwear to literally top-of thesafari look, for example. And, as exemplifed here, the modern
safari go-er – a man hopefully more likely to point his iPhonearound the Savannah than a double-barrelled Holland & Holland– has the safari jacket’s more distant relations at his disposal,
when it comes to roaming the wilds of Africa (or, indeed, his
urban milieu of choice).
As always, thoughtfully curated garments will ensure that thewhole is vastly greater than the sum of its parts.

Lots 21 to 30
The word safari derives from the Swahili word for “journey,”and traces its origins to the mid-nineteenth century. The classic
safari format includes waking at dawn for a small breakfast,a day spent walking and observing wildlife and landscapes,
a short rest in the afernoon, a lavish dinner and an evening
spent drinking and recounting the day’s sights. An increased
British colonial presence in Southern Africa led to the rise of
big-game hunting safaris. Today, safaris are synonymous withsophisticated cameras and ecotourism, though the originalsafari ethos remains, and the accompanying wristwatches
are resistant to the elements, durable and practical. A Rolex
Explorer II or robust Patek Philippe Aquanaut strapped on thewrist easily withstands these environments. Alternatively, a“tropical” Daytona with sub dials that have transformed fromblack to a rich, uniform latte brown for something more exotic.
At once luxurious and sporty, a stainless steel Nautilus from
Patek Philippe is another great option, with moon phase display
to mimic the seemingly infnite canopy of stars above.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 72

29/10/18 18:18

Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 73

26/10/18 08:58

3. Safari

Mr Porter’s lookLot 29Jaeger-LeCoultre. Memovox Polaris reference
E859, stainless steel, circa 1968

The safari jacket in its purest form is spurned once again
here, in favour of a cotton-canvas feld jacket, made by
Aspesi, modelled on military-issue M-65s (hence thebuttoned shoulder epaulettes, voluminous fap pockets
and an internal drawstring). A wafe-knit Henley t-shirt
from RRL lies beneath, while a pair of herringbone stretchcotton cargo trousers ensure the military favour continues
below the torso.
Elsewhere, Tom Ford’s burnished-leather 'Cromwell' boots- hooked eyelets, padded collars and durable rubber-lug
soles included - would fare just as well on the Appalachiantrail as it would the catwalks of Milan, and are matchedon the slick-yet-rugged stakes by a boardroom-friendly
rucksack in butter-sof suede from Brunello Cucinelli (whoare also behind the woven leather belt). The fnal touch,a neck scarf from Altea, ties the whole thing up into a kindof tastefully paradoxical, urbane wilderness-warrior whole.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 74

Jacket by Aspesi
Bandana by Altea
T-shirt by RRL
Trousers by Brunello Cucinelli
Belt by Brunello Cucinelli
Backpack by Brunello Cucinelli
Boots by TOM FORD

26/10/18 08:59

The Rake’s lookLot 23
Breitling. Navitimer ‘Pre-806’, stainless steel,circa 1955

Sharing much DNA with the traditional safari jacket, this‘Shooter Jacket’ – a special version with a slightly larger
lapel, created exclusively for The Rake, of a key item in
Grenfell’s repertoire since the 1940s – is an ultra-functional,
rugged classic. The internal pockets of the external ammo
pouches, as well as the reinforced shoulders testify to its
worthiness for serious outdoor pursuits.
Meanwhile, inspired by the leg-wear worn by Nepalesesoldiers who serve in the British Army, the Rubinacci
pleated ‘Manny’ trousers, and the Anderson & Sheppard
silk and cashmere scarf inject the spot of military chicrequisite in any safari get-up, while suede chukka boots
from Ludwig Reiter and a blue brushed cotton shirt
from Emma Willis hike up the whole ensemble’s urban
credentials. Literally topped of with a natty Panama
from Lock & Co., it’s a look that gives the un-armed,
metropolitan man plenty of sartorial fre-power.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 75

Jacket by Grenfell
Shirt by Emma Willis
Scarf by Anderson & Sheppard
Trousers by Rubinacci
Boots by Ludwig ReiterHat by Lock & Co

26/10/18 09:00

3. Safari

21.

Rolex – A very rare stainless steel dual time wristwatch with date, cream “rail”
dial, and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1987

Reference No.

16550

Movement No.

1’490’036

Case No.

9’720’297

Model Name

Explorer II

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference
78360, max length 220mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$8,000-12,000€6,900-10,400

Rolex’s Explorer models were watches designed andintended for adventurers. While the Explorer I was marketed
to mountain climbers, the Explorer II with its 24-hour
graduated bezel and its large, luminescent 24-hour handarrow, was intended for those spending extended time indark environments, such as spelunkers.
Launched in 1985, the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 was
the frst Explorer II model to be ftted with a scratch-resistantsapphire crystal. Only in production for less than a handfulof years, it has become a favorite amongst collectors of
Rolex sport watches. Due to a faw in the paint used in the

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 76

reference’s earliest dials, watches ftted with originallywhite dials are ofen seen with tones that have aged topleasing shades of ivory or cream.
The most coveted among these are those ftted with“rail” dials, as found on this extremely well-preserved
example. The term “rail” is used to describe the near
perfect alignment of the vertical space between the text
written across the two lines on the dial at 6 o’clock. You
will notice “Superlative” and “Ofcially” are on the lef,while “Chronometer” and “Certifed” are on the right.
In addition to the color change, the dials of the reference
16550 were made using a glossy, lacquered fnish, giving
them a porcelain-like look. The white gold appliedluminous hour markers complement the dial of thepresent example, and is diferent from dials used in thereference 16570, its successor, which used hour markers
with black surrounds. Additionally, the reference 16550
allowed the 24-hour hand to be independently adjusted,rather than simply indicating whether it was day or nightin dark environments.
This Explorer II delights with its hardly worn condition,
crisp, unpolished case, and beautifully aged dial. A very
early example of the reference, it furthermore ofers
collectors an interesting serial number, produced during
the last year of Rolex’s sequential numbering systembefore the letter prefx system was introduced.

26/10/18 09:00

ROLEX
Ref. 16550 Explorer II “Cream Dial”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 77

26/10/18 09:01

3. Safari

22.

Patek Philippe – A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatchwith center seconds and date

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1999

Reference No.

5065/1A-001

Movement No.

3’011’259

Case No.

4’047’552

Model Name

Aquanaut

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 315/190 SC, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Patek Philippe brick-stylebracelet, and additional Patek Philippe rubber
strap with deployant buckle

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Patek Philippe double deployant
claspsDimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000 O€13,000-21,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin confrming the sale of thiswatch at the Wempe boutique in Hamburg, Germany on July 15th,
1999, extra tropical strap and buckle, product literature, Wempecertifcate, inner and outer box. Further accompanied by Patek
Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming this watch was
manufactured in 1999 and sold on April 30th, 1999.

Just as an astronaut is one who explores space, an aquanautis one who explores the seas. In order to be conferred sucha title, one must actually spend time in these most extremeof habitats, and have appropriate wrist attire for such
excursions. For those more likely to spend time sipping Mai
Tai’s on a tropical island than living in an oxygen depleted
environment under the sea, equally appropriate wristwear
is also needed.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 78

Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut was the frst model produced
and sold with a rubber strap. Released at Basel in 1997, thereference 5065A “Jumbo” was a limited edition watch of
1,000 timepieces, sold in both stainless steel and 18K yellow
gold. The watch had a sporty appeal and was representativeof Patek’s foray into creating a watch for more casual
lifestyles – it was the frst Patek Philippe wristwatch to bereleased with a rubber strap. Though drawing some design
cues from the Nautilus, released 20 years earlier, it can beconsidered a breed unto itself. The model quickly became astrong seller, and has been released in a variety of sizes andwith several diferent complications in the intervening years.
The reference 5065 was produced from 1998 until 2006,
when it was replaced by the reference 5167A. The present,
early reference 5065/1A-001 stands out among these as it is
the only variant of the reference ever sold as a package that
included both the rubber composite strap and steel bracelet.
Even for a casual, sporty wristwatch, signifcant planning andattention to detail went into the design for the Aquanaut.
The embossed, oversized guilloché dial is reminiscent of thebrick design of both the steel bracelet and the rubber strap.
Signifcantly more luminous material is used on the dial of
the Aquanaut in comparison to the Nautilus, and the hands
and indexes are consequently thicker. Both references sharethe vertically brushed fat bezel, though the Aquanaut has
more angular corners, rather than the rounded, portholestyle corners of the Nautilus.
Preserved in exceptional condition for almost two decades,
and accompanied by all of its original accessories, theopportunity to own this very rare and original Aquanaut“Jumbo” is one not to be missed.

26/10/18 09:01

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5065A Aquanaut

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 79

26/10/18 09:01

3. Safari

23.

Breitling – An early, very rare and highly attractive stainless steel pilot’s
chronograph wristwatch with black gilt dial and slide rule bezel.

Manufacturer

Breitling

Year

1955

Reference No.

“Pre-806”

Case No.

844’845

Model Name

Navitimer

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, further stamped “BOW”

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$20,000-40,000€17,400-34,700

No stranger to pioneering feats of horology, in 1915, Breitling
was among the earliest brands to launch a wristwatch
chronograph. It was in 1923 that the manufacture patented
a two-pusher chronograph, allowing for the frst time achronograph to time separate, successive intervals without
having to reset to zero between each interval. Breitling’s
innovative and rich experience with chronographs resulted in
one of the most iconic wristwatches of the 20th century andarguably, one of the most successful aviator’s wristwatches
ever: the Navitimer. Over the years, the Navitimer has
undergone a variety of cosmetic and mechanical changes,
yet it has always remained a timing and measuring
instrument rooted in strong traditions.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 80

The Navitimer is a tool watch in the purest sense. Eachelement of the watch was designed specifcally for accuracy
and efciency in execution. The beaded edge allowed for pilots
to grasp and turn the bezel while wearing thick leather gloves.
Its slide rule – the frst ever incorporated within a wristwatch
chronograph – was critical in making intricate calculations in
the pre-digital era such as calculating fuel consumption, fightduration, and distance traveled.
The “AOPA” logo, an applied gilt metal pair of wings, isthe symbol of the Aircraf Owners and Pilots Association
established in 1939 which is the largest international
independent organization of pilots. The “AOPA” Navitimer
was only made for the American market, and is consequently
stamped on the movement with the import code, “BOW” forthe Breitling Watch Corp. The present example stands out
as it is an early, frst generation Navitimer - referred to as a“pre-806” as it has no reference number on its caseback - andbelieved to have only been available for purchase to membersof the “AOPA”. Research by the manufacture shows that thepresent lot comes from a batch of cases produced in Januaryof 1955. Retaining all of its original parts and having survived
in remarkable, unpolished and unrestored condition, it’s a rareand exceptional watch for the connoisseur.

26/10/18 09:02

BREITLING
Navitimer “Pre-806”

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3. Safari

24.

Patek Philippe – A fne and very attractive yellow gold wristwatch

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1947

Reference No.

565

Movement No.

960’102

Case No.

647’351

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 12-120

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$25,000-50,000€21,700-43,400
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch in 1947 and its subsequentsale on September 18th, 1947.

Patek Philippe’s reference 565 is one of the greatest
time only wristwatches of the 20th century. Released
in 1938 and in production until 1952, the reference
was available at the same time as other iconic
timepieces by the frm, namely the iconic complicatedwatches of the mid-20th century, such as the

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 82

perpetual calendar 1526 and 3448, and the perpetualcalendar chronograph watches, the 1518 and 2499.
It is certainly one of Patek Philippe’s sportier models
from this early era thanks to its robust two-piece caseconstruction and screw-down caseback. Not only is it
water resistant – something of a rarity in the 1940s, but
the model also features an inner sof iron case to shield
the movement from the adverse efects of magnetic
felds. The outer case is composed of only two parts
constructed without the habitual snap-on bezel, further
suppressing another entry point of dust and humidity
The model was produced in a variety of combinations
from stainless steel to yellow and pink gold models, withboth center seconds and subsidiary seconds, as well as
dials from two-tone, to silvered to pink champagne. The
present watch is ftted with a very rare and charismatic
dial with radially oriented art-deco style raised, hardenamel hour numerals. The case is furthermore
preserved in excellent, unpolished condition, evidenced
by the thick lugs and bezel. Along with companion
timepieces like the references 530, 570 and 1503, thereference 565 is amongst one of the most collectible
and desirable vintage designs today because its modern
aesthetic is as valid now as it was in 1938.

26/10/18 09:02

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 565

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3. Safari

25.

Rolex – An exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith “tropical” subdials, tachymeter scale, and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1971

Reference No.

6265”, inner case back stamped 6262

Case No.

2’851’484

Model Name

Oyster CosmographMaterial

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped
7835 19, end links stamped 271

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

2.71

Estimate$80,000-160,000€69,500-139,000

Rolex’s Oyster Cosmograph Daytona is a keystone watch for
any collection of tool timepieces. Since it was frst introduced
in 1963 with a stainless steel bezel with tachymeter scale,the reference 6239, to the modern iteration with ceramic
bezel, has captivated enthusiasts and for good reason. The
Daytona is a reliable tool watch with a classic clean modern
fair. It is as contemporary today, as it was nearly 60 years
ago. Released in the late 1960s, the reference 6265, alongwith its companion piece, the reference 6263 with acrylic
bezel, replaced the frst “Oyster” model, or those with screw
down pushers, the reference 6240. The model was produced
in stainless steel and yellow gold, as well as an exceptionallyrare and possibly unique white gold model, and featured
either standard dials or “Paul Newman” dials.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 84

The present Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a sight tobehold. Fresh to the international market and consignedby the family of the original owner, it is a stunning,
early reference 6265 that is certainly one of the mostremarkable examples ever to surface. Its most exceptional
and immediately visible feature is its tropical dial,featuring subsidiary dials that have naturally aged to acharismatic light brown macchiato hue.
The evenness with which the subdials have aged is truly
extraordinary. The white graphics within each sub-dial are
perfectly bright. Furthermore, the luminous hour markers
are perfectly intact and identically match the luminous
hands in color. The watch is further enhanced by theoutstanding overall condition of the case, which remains
sharp - unpolished with strong proportions and factory
polished and brushed surfaces, as well as retaining its
original MK 1 screw-down pushers. The present stainlesssteel model from 1971 is also ftted with its original bracelet
stamped 2.71. The overall impact of this Daytona will
impress any collector of vintage Rolex sports watches.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona“Tropical”

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26.

Omega – An early, very rare and attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1958

Reference No.

2915-2

Movement No.

15’997’568

Model Name

Speedmaster, “Broad Arrow”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 321, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Omega partially extensible ladderbracelet, end links stamped no. 6, max length
200mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp

Dimensions

38.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$120,000-240,000€104,000-208,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch and its subsequent sale in Argentina
on December 22, 1958. Further accompanied by product literature of
the era.
Literature
For another example of a reference 2915-2, please see Omega
Sportswatches by John Goldberger, pp. 102-103.

In the feld of wristwatches, the Speedmaster is a true icon,
and the most historically important model made by Omega.
Its history spans almost sixty years with the very frst
Speedmaster launched in 1957, having slowly and gracefully
evolved through the decades with a variety of dial, hand, bezel,
and bracelet variations, and today’s modern Speedmasterline has unmistakable ties to the original. The frst generation
model, reference CK 2915, is considered by collectors as “thegrail” for a number of reasons. In terms of design, it was
the frst chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale (or, as

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Omega called it at the time, the Tacho-productometer scale)on the bezel, rather than on the dial. In terms of movements,
Omega did not go for a brand new caliber, turning instead tocaliber 321, an extremely robust and reliable column-wheel
chronograph, which it recognized as the best available option
for its new Speedmaster.
In production only between 1957 and 1959, the reference
2915 was produced in three diferent iterations: -1, -2, and-3. CK2915-1 and -2 are the very frst – and most collectible Speedmaster models. They have unique diferences from alllater generations of Speedmasters, most notably in their dialgraphics and important elements of case design. The large,“Broad Arrow” minute and hour hands are one such trait, butalso the metal bezel - rather than a bezel with black insert and slightly diferent dial graphics, distinguishable by the oval
“O” of Omega. This oval will later become perfectly round. Also
the case has details which would later be abandoned, such as
the “Speedmaster” designation engraved on the slanted edgeof the case back rather than on the center.
The present lot, a reference 2915-2, belongs to the second
iteration of the frst generation of Speedmasters, ftted with allof its original parts exhibiting all of the early details collectors
adore. The frst is the rare Base 1000 metal bezel, followedby the dial confguration. The Omega signature features
the iconic “fat” O followed by the slightly longer “r” in the
Speedmaster signature. Its original “broad arrow” hands arewell preserved, and the dial is stunning, with luminous hourmarkers perfectly matching the hands’ luminous material.
Ofered in wonderful overall condition, this Speedmaster from1958 is an all original textbook example of one of the very frst
Speedmaster models - an enduringly iconic reference reveredby enthusiasts, and a trophy watch for the connoisseur.

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OMEGA
Ref. 2915-2 Speedmaster“Broad Arrow”

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3. Safari

27.

Patek Philippe – A fne and rare stainless steel wristwatch with date, moonphase, power reserve and bracelet, with certifcate of origin, paperwork, and box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2005

Reference No.

3712/1A-001

Movement No.

3’170’479

Case No.

4’330’059

Model Name

Nautilus

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 240, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus
integrated bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Patek Philippe hidden clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000€34,700-69,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present lot in 2005 and its
subsequent sale on August 30th, 2005.

Patek Philippe introduced reference 3712/1A in 2005, and it
remained in production for approximately one year – someestimate as few as eight months. Its successor, the muchcoveted reference 5712/1, was launched in October of 2006
to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus,
alongside the references 5712R (the frst Nautilus to beofered on a leather bracelet), 5800/1, 5980/1, and thehighly successful 5711/1.

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Originally designed by world renowned Gerald Genta, thefrst of the Nautilus family was presented in 1976. Reference
3712/1A was at the time of its launch, the most complicatedversion of the Nautilus made by Patek Philippe, which had
previously only indicated the date. The letters following
the ofcial name of the self-winding caliber 240 – PS IRM C
LU – stand for “petite second” (small seconds), “indicationde réserve de marche” (power reserve), “calandrier” (date),and “lune” (moon), all of which are present on the 3712 in an
idiosyncratic but somehow harmonious arrangement.
At frst glance, the 3712 appears quite similar to its
successor, the 5712, but there are many noteworthydiferences when the watches’ details are examined. Most
notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42
mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces
compared with the more rounded, three piece, 43mm caseof the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider
grooves, or channels, and diferent hour markers than its
successor. A particularly subtle but well-studied detail isthe presence of just three red dots on the power reserve
indicator, versus four dots on the 5712, to indicate a low
remaining power reserve.
With its extremely short production period, the reference
3712 is amongst the rarest of all variants of the Nautilus,
making it extremely sought afer. The present example
appears to have never been worn, and is ofered in pristine,
close to new condition complete with all of its original
accessories, certifcate, and hang tag – making it a superb
example for the connoisseur.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3712A Nautilus

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3. Safari

28.

Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel military diver’s
wristwatch with rotating bezel, fxed bar lugs, and military engravings, made for
the British Navy
Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1974

Reference No.

5513

Case No.

Case No: 3’926’998 repeated inside the case back.
Case back exterior further stamped with militaryissued numbers 0552/923-7697 and unit number
504/76, case back interior further stamped 1.72

Model Name

Submariner, “MilSub”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Nylon

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial and movement signed

Estimate$110,000-220,000€95,500-191,000

Rolex’s Submariner is a tool watch, which from its original launch in1954 has been perennial favorite amongst enthusiasts, so much soit has been part of the brand’s product line ever since. The watch isa rugged masculine timepiece that is comfortable to wear, with aclean clutter free dial that is highly legible - a necessity when one is
diving the ocean’s dark depths. It has evolved over the last 60 years
from non-crown guard models with a depth rating of 100 meters, tomodels with crown guards, to today’s 300 meter depth rating foundon modern Submariners.
The present watch is a rare variant of the Submariner made for the
British Royal Navy according to their specifcations, and are known
today by collectors as the “MilSub”. While the MilSub’s subtleties
are aesthetically pleasing to collectors today, these nuances were
designed for specifc military purposes.
Rather than design a new model, Rolex modifed these timepieces
from specifcations provided by the British Ministry of Defense.
“MilSubs” have wide sword-shaped hands for enhanced readability,
an encircled “T” on the dial, indicating the use of luminescent tritium.
Another feature was the 60-minute revolving bezel insert, insteadof the civilian 15-minute calibrated bezel. The MOD also required ahack (stop seconds) feature and permanent, fxed spring bars weldedto the lugs to prevent the ftting of a refective bracelet. Anothernoticeable diference between the military and civilian models are
their case back engravings – the present lot marked with the “0552”
code for British Ministry of Defense, “923-7697”, the NATO code,
followed by the issue number. “504” and year of issue, “76”.
When decommissioned, they were sold by the MOD during the
1980s, and purchased by civilians and dealers who ofen replacedor removed the military-specifc components - the encircled T dial,sword hands, 60’ bezel, engraved case back, and fxed spring bars to transform them into more commercial, “civilianized” Submariners.
Thus, very few MilSubs have survived with their “military-spec”
confgurations.

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ROLEX
Ref. 5513 Submariner “MilSub”

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3. Safari

29.

Jaeger-LeCoultre – A fne and very rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch withcenter seconds, date and alarm function

Manufacturer

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Year

1968

Reference No.

E859

Movement No.

1’944’939

Case No.

117’029

Model Name

Memovox Polaris

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. K825, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Rubber

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$12,000-24,000€10,400-20,800
Accessories
Accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1968.
Literature“mstanga” has dedicated a 64 page booklet to the Polaris E859.

The famed Jaeger-LeCoultre “Memovox” (voice ofmemory) was introduced in 1950, quickly gaining
traction as one of the most desirable and reliable alarm
wristwatches on the market. A center disc with an arrowis operated by a second crown typically found at 2 o’clock,allowing the alarm function to be quickly and easily set.
In an era where sports diving was gaining more and more
popularity (indeed, advertisements of the era branded

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the E859 as “pour l’homme d’action” or “for the manof action”), Jaeger-LeCoultre’s response was to launcha unique, oversized, automatic waterproof divers’
wristwatch with an alarm function.
Their goal was to ofer both visual (inner bezel) andauditory (alarm) timers for robust diver safety. To do so,
the frm created a patented case back, which optimized
the alarm’s sound transmission under water. The outercase, with its 16 holes, allowed for the alarm tone tobe heard and also felt on the wrist, while the innercase sealed and protected the movement. The watch
featured three crowns, each with the cross hatch patterncharacteristic of Super Compressor watches: the frst fortime setting, the second to rotate the inner bezel for divetiming, and the third to rotate the inner disc with arrow
to set the alarm.
Known in the United States as the Polaris, and in theEuropean market as the “Skin Diver Memovox”, thereference E859 was made in 1714 total examples. This
year, for the 50th anniversary of the model, Jaeger
LeCoultre released a second modern re-interpretationof the Polaris (the frst having launched in 2009) inrecognition of its iconic status. Finding original vintage
examples of the Polaris, in crisp, unrestored condition
has become increasingly difcult due to their growing
popularity. This American “LeCoultre”-signed model iswell-preserved in unpolished condition, retaining all of
its sharp edges and lines as delivered from the factory 50
years ago – a perfect watch for the connoisseur.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Ref. E859 Memovox Polaris

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3. Safari

30.

Rolex – A rare and well-preserved stainless steel dual time wristwatch with
Bakelite bezel and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

circa 1958

Reference No.

6542

Movement No.

DN’903’051

Case No.

397’320

Model Name

GMT-Master

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1066, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel riveted expandable
Rolex Oyster bracelet , end links stamped 557, max
overall length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.66

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$70,000-120,000€60,800-104,000

Literature
For another example of a reference 6542 with Bakelite bezel see 100
Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 192.

Tool watches of the mid-20th century are some of themost collectible and sought afer timepieces today, andthe Rolex reference 6542 GMT-Master, released in 1954,
is a frst-generation model appreciated for its innovative
mechanism and rare Bakelite bezel. Rolex developed thedual time zone watch in conjunction with Pan American
airways so their personnel could tell both “local” and “home”
time while traveling. With the introduction of the jet engine,intercontinental travel had become much more common andcommercially available thus both fight staf and travelingexecutives needed a means to monitor time as they traveled

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across multiple time zones. Rolex created an ingenious method
using the rotating Bakelite bezel that worked in conjunction
with a fourth, 24-hour center hand permitting the wearer toclearly keep track of two time zones. The model had a robust,masculine appeal with highly legible dial, and the blue andred Bakelite bezel, unique to the reference 6542, allowed forthe use of luminous numerals, which allowed the time to bevisualized in the dark. Unfortunately, Bakelite, a type of plastic,
proved to be fragile and could easily be chipped or cracked
when the watch was either dropped or hit too hard against anedge. Within a few short years, Rolex released in 1959 a newmodel GMT-Master, the reference 1675, which replaced the
Bakelite bezel with a far more resilient aluminum bezel insert.
The model became an icon for sophisticates, and had such aninternational allure that in 1964, producers of the James Bondthriller, “Goldfnger”, featured it on the wrist of the female
criminal, Pussy Galore.
The present reference 6542, made circa 1958, is a lovely
example of the model. It’s ftted with its original and still-glossy
black lacquer dial with gilt lettering and luminous hour markers
that have aged, along with the hands, to a warm brown hue.
The case is beautiful, having never been polished, and retains
its beautiful, crisp facets and original dimensions as deliveredby the factory so many decades ago. The original luminous
Bakelite bezel, so ofen missing or replaced on this reference,
has aged gracefully over the last 60 years. Over the years,
the GMT-Master has remained a perennial favorite amongst
enthusiasts and the general public alike due to its practical
functionality as a simple-to-use travel watch. It is a model thathas a casual fair, which is suitable both in formal and informal
settings, and complete, early examples like the present lot are
wonderful watches that provide a window on to the innovative
history of the brand and this iconic model’s origins.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6542 GMT-Master

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4. Positano
How to stand out in the sun

When it comes to dressing for summer, the go-to reference guidefor many a sartorially informed man is the jet-set era: a time when,enabled by the introduction of passenger aviation services in thelate-ffies, people whose lifestyle formerly saw them dubbed“café society” began to enjoy spells of weapons-grade decadence
in places such as Cannes, Capri and St Tropez. Lead protagonists
included ultra-stylish men such as Gianni Agnelli, Aly Khan andPorfrio Rubirosa, who graced those summery hotspots wearing
the fnest lightweight garments from Charvet and Caraceni.
Contemporaries who wish to perfect summer menswear (a genre
nailed utterly by contemporary dandies such as Nick Foulkes andLuca Rubinacci) have a considerable debt to the tailors of Naples
who, in the 1930s, began deconstructing the traditional English
suit jacket. The ‘spalla camicia’, or ‘shirt shoulder’ – created byremoving the lining, canvas and pads – resulted in a coat that was
smart and yet more apposite for la dolce vita than l’ufcio.
We should also pay homage to fabric innovators – the Zegnas,
Scabals and Vitale Barberis Canonicos of this world – who work
tirelessly to create ever more functional cloths, including those
whose ultra-low micron thickness make them perfect when a suitis necessary with the rays beating down.
So how, starting from the ground up – preferably with some wellchosen loafers or espadrilles – should one compile a natty guiseonce the mercury starts to head north?

Lots 31 to 40
John Steinbeck once commented on the dress code of Positano,“Clothing is as harum-scarum as a man’s mind can wish, but
it must be comfortable.” Indeed, Positano is a vertical town,
brightly painted houses seemingly implanted into the sides ofclifs, overlooking naturally turquoise waters. As you wind yourway upwards through narrow cobblestone paths, you inhalelemon-scented air as overgrown olive trees brush your shoulders.
By the time you arrive at your destination, perspiring and in
desperate need of an aperitivo, the sun has begun to lower inthe sky. The watches must be light on the wrist: for example, anultra-thin Patek Philippe perpetual calendar in cool platinum withan exquisite blue dial. If it is weight you seek, so as to deserve themulti-course feast ahead of you, a multi-colored, gem-set Rolex
sports watch in gold will refect the array of colors featured in thesurrounding architecture.

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Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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4. Positano

Mr Porter’s lookLot 31
Heuer. Mareographe reference 2447, stainlesssteel, circa 1964

Tote bags becoming a bona fde men’s accessory is a fashiontide-shif that couldn’t have come sooner, and, alongside thebeaded bronzite bracelet by Japanese brand Miki seen here,
this tan one by Dunhill is a neat ft with Bottega Veneta’s‘Intrecciato’ suede Espadrilles.
Elsewhere, some snappy layering comes courtesy of
Boglioli’s burgundy cardigan – a piece that’s typical of the
Italian family brand’s capacity for blurring the line between
sweater and unstructured jacket – and a white striped 'Mao'shirt cut from lightweight linen with grandad collar by P.
Johnson, a Sydney-based outftter that manufactures in Italy.
Louis D-Frame sunglasses in rose gold-tone and green by
Tom Ford (whose bold-retro eyewear seems to get better
every season) and pleated shorts in cotton twill from
Rubinacci complete a look that’s achingly debonair with ahealthy streak of quirkiness.

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Cardigan by Boglioli
Shirt by P. Johnson
Shorts by Rubinacci
Bracelet by Mikia
Espadrilles by Bottega Veneta
Tote bag by Dunhill

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The Rake’s lookLot 34
Rolex. Daytona “Rainbow” reference
116598RBOW, 18 karat yellow gold, diamonds,
and sapphires, circa 2012

An ensemble so chilled, a glance at it slows the pulse,
this selection’s (gently) beating heart is a blue shirt inlightweight Italian linen from Jermyn Street’s shirting
queen Emma Willis: a garment whose summery tone
strikes a mellifuous chord with the brown checked jacket,
from Italian house Lardini, that will enshroud it when thechillier evenings draw in.
George Cleverley’s sky-blue loafers (aptly named‘Riviera’) chime beautifully with that upper-torso colour
scheme, while Anderson & Sheppard’s beige cotton shorts
are a useful and versatile addition to any wardrobe.
London-based purveyors of uber-quality eyewear
manufacturer, Royal Warrant holder to Michael Caine,
Oliver Goldsmith supply the essential sunglasses here.

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Jacket by Lardini
Shirt by Emma Willis
Pocket square by Rubinacci
Shorts by Anderson & Sheppard
Loafers by George Cleverly
Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith

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4. Positano

31.

Heuer – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tidal
indication

Manufacturer

Heuer

Year

1964

Reference No.

2447

Case No.

78’927

Model Name

Mareographe

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, Valjoux 721, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Heuer buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$4,000-6,000€3,500-5,200

The Heuer Mareographe, the Heuer-branded, European
counterpart of the Seafarer model retailed by the Abercrombie& Fitch Co. American sporting goods company, saw its
earliest iteration in the Heuer Solunar, a time-only watch
created by Jack Heuer in the 1940s. Designed with help
from his high school physics teacher, according to his
autobiography, it featured a unique, brightly colored tidal
indicator at 6 o’clock. Though the Solunar was ultimately
unsuccessful, the post-World War II societal shif towards
outdoor activity and growing demand for sporting watchescompelled Heuer to combine the tidal indicator of the Solunar
with a chronograph function, resulting in the Mareographe.

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Featuring multi-colored tidal indicators similar to the Solunar,
the Mareographe continued to evolve over several iterations
culminating in a dial featuring sky blue and silver colors in theearly 1960s, housed in the reference 2444 case.
The introduction of the Carrera case in 1963 would once again
alter the aesthetics of the Mareographe; though it retained
the same sky blue accents on the tidal indicator and minutetotalizer, the case is instantly recognizable with its bold,
faceted lugs typical of classic Carrera chronographs. Sky blue
accents on the dial would continue to appear on the dial of all
subsequent iterations of the Mareographe and its branded
counterparts, including the Orvis Solunagraph introduced in
1973. Orvis was another American-based sporting goods store
focused primarily on fshing among other outdoor pursuits.
Scholarship shows that the Mareographe reference 2447 wasproduced for approximately fve years, beginning in mid-1963.
Mareographes and Seafarers were produced concurrently,
though the sportive American Seafarer was a far more
popular model, resulting in lower production numbers for the
Mareographe.
Produced in 1964, this early example features an immaculately
preserved dial retaining the vivid sky blue colors in the 3 and 9
o’clock subdials that make the Mareographe especially prizedby collectors. The sharp, luminous dauphine hands balancewith the steel faceted baton indexes, all elements whichfurther harmonize with the Carrera-style case. Unpolishedand unrestored, the present watch is in wonderful original
condition making it a great example for the collector.

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HEUER
Ref. 2447 Mareographe

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4. Positano

32.

Rolex – A very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with“tropical” brown registers and bracelet, retailed by Bucherer, accompanied withpresentation box, original booklet, and guarantee

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1970

Reference No.

6264, inside case back stamped 6239

Case No.

2’750’768

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped
7835 19, end links stamped 271, max overall length
195mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2.71

Dimensions

36.5mm diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000€34,700-69,500
Accessories
With Bucherer presentation box, original Rolex Guarantee stamped
Bucherer AG, dated Sept 18, 1973, and product literature

Introduced in the late 1960s, the reference 6264, along with
its companion model reference 6262, was the last Rolex
Daytona model to feature round “pump”-style chronographpushers. With the release in 1969 of the references 6263

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and 6265, Rolex committed to screw-down pushers forenhanced water resistance. The 6264 is amongst therarest of all Daytona references with a production spanof approximately three years. Produced in stainlesssteel, 18K and 14K gold, there are believed to be only
approximately 1700 examples in stainless steel. Housedwith the upgraded caliber 727, the model was the
successor to the reference 6241 with a black acrylic bezel
and white tachometer graduation.
The present example is sure to attract passionate
connoisseurs both for its excellent overall condition withsharp milling to the case back, beautifully preserved
outline and crisp factory fnish to the underside of thelugs, as well as the exceptional “tropical” silver dialfeaturing subsidiary dials that have aged to a uniform
and beautiful dark chocolate brown tone. Fresh-to-themarket and consigned by the original owner, the watch
is enhanced with the original Bucherer presentation
box and Rolex Guarantee stamped by the prestigious
Swiss retailer. Vintage Daytona Cosmograph watches
are one of the most desirable timepieces in today’s
collectors’ watch market. The present lot presents a rareopportunity to own of the most sought afer references,made even more desirable with its superb dial, original
owner provenance, exceptional state of preservation, andcompleteness.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6264 Cosmograph Daytona“Tropical”

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4. Positano

33.

Rolex – A fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dial
displaying “Sigma” symbols and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1974

Reference No.

6265

Case No.

4’137’973

Model Name

Oyster CosmographMaterial

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet,
end links stamped no. 57

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed

Estimate$40,000-60,000€34,700-52,100

Fresh to the market, it features an elegant and attractive
silvered soleil “Sigma’” dial. The Greek symbol sigma isfound at the outer wings of the “T Swiss T” designation,
signifying the hour markers and hands are made ofwhite gold. A pleasant purplish hue has begun to eclipse
the original black color on the subsidiary dials, andis complemented well with the even, cream-colored
shade the luminous material has developed. The current
lot, with its “Sigma” dial and crisp case that retains its
factory edges and curves, ofers collectors the chance toown a rare chronograph with a striking combination ofutility and sophistication.
A charming engraving is found on the caseback, bearing
the name “J.B. Linsmayer,” who it’s believed refers to thelate James B. Linsmayer, a prominent businessman andphilanthropist from Minnesota.

The Rolex Daytona references 6263 and 6265, launched in
1969, feature a practical upgrade from their predecessors,the 6264 and 6262, respectively, in the form of screw down
pushers and crown. Due to these improvements, the model
now guaranteed a more waterproof design, as indicated by
the “Oyster” designation on the dial.

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02/11/18 16:52

ROLEX
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona“Sigma Dial”

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02/11/18 16:52

4. Positano

34.

Rolex – A very rare, heavy and attractive yellow gold, diamond and rainbowcolored multi-gem set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, ftted
presentation box and original guarantee

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 2012

Reference No.

116598RBOW, inner case back stamped 2118

Movement No.

3E’111’5P9Case No.

07’17U’191

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Rainbow”

Material

18K yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 4130, 44 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max
length 205mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Rolex twinlock deployant clasp,

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

stamped 6DD

Estimate$180,000-280,000 O€156,000-243,000
Accessories
Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee card, product literature,leather envelope, outer presentation box, hang tags, and bezel
protector.

During the 1980s, Rolex began to adorn their sports
watches with precious gemstones for its most exclusiveand demanding clientele. Among these frst early gemset sports watches are the manually-wound Daytona
references 6269 and 6270 (the former with brilliant-cut
diamonds at the bezel and the latter with baguette-cut
diamonds) and the GMT-Master reference 16758 “SARU”
set with rubies, diamonds, and sapphires. In the late 1990s
through the 2000s, Rolex specifcally utilized the ultimate

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_lot 34.indd 106

luxury tool watch, the Cosmograph Daytona, as a vehicle
for gemological experimentation. Examples with large
baguette-set bezels, pavé diamond dials, emeralds,
rubies or sapphires to name a few combinations havebeen produced, always in very small quantities and withextreme attention to quality and execution.
Set with 36 rainbow-hued sapphires, 56 diamonds
adorning the lugs and crown guards, and diamonds
indicating the hours, to call the Rainbow Daytona
luxurious and lavish is an exercise in understatement.
Each sapphire – every single gemstone used is internallyfawless - is perfectly cut to ft without prongs into thebezel, and selected with the right color for transitioning to
the stones on adjacent sides, so that rather than seeming
like 36 individual stones, they blend into one another. Dueto the difculty in sourcing these stones, subjecting themto Rolex’s high standards, and then ftting them into thewatch, production numbers remain extremely low andonly a handful have surfaced at auction.
The now-discontinued yellow gold model was quickly
followed by a white gold variation, also discontinued,
and then, unexpectedly, earlier this year (2018) Rolex
surprised the community at Baselworld by introducing a
version cased in Everose, sparking new passions (and likely
infaming old desires) for this most exclusive of Daytonas.
To behold the exceptionally created Rainbow Daytona issecond only to owning it. The present lot is in excellent
condition and complete, making it an opportunity to own
what has become a legendary wristwatch, not just among
Rolexes but all wristwatches.

02/11/18 16:52

ROLEX
Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_lot 34.indd 107

02/11/18 16:52

4. Positano

35.

Audemars Piguet – An exceptional, attractive, and large limited edition pinkgold, titanium, ceramic and diamond-set chronograph wristwatch with date,guarantee, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Audemars Piguet

Year

2013

Reference No.

26210OI.OO.A109CR.01

Movement No.

882’458

Case No.

I04234, no. 212/600

Model NameRoyal Oak Ofshore Chronograph LeBron James

Material

18K pink gold, titanium, ceramic, and diamonds

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 3126/3840, 59 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Grey rubber Audemars Piguet strap

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Audemars Piguet buckle

Dimensions

44mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied with original guarantee dated 12/2013, and signed
Audemars Piguet Boutique S.P. A., Milano, grey leather Royal Oak
Ofshore Limited Edition Lebron James ftted presentation box,
product literature, addition grey rubber Audemars Piguet strap, twogrey crocodile Audemars Piguet straps and outer packaging.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 108

Like its namesake, the limited edition LeBron JamesRoyal Oak Ofshore Chronograph by Audemars Piguet is atrendsetter that defnes style, sophistication, and overall
good taste. First released in 1993, the Ofshore was themodern and sporty interpretation of the iconic Gerald
Genta-designed Royal Oak model. Produced to celebrate
the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, The original Ofshore
featured an automatic chronograph movement and camein an impressive 42mm diameter case, which while today is
the norm, it was considered massive in 1993 and was quickly
nicknamed “The Beast”. The limited edition LeBron James,
made in 600 examples, celebrates the famed basketball
player who in his frst year of play with the Cleveland
Cavaliers in 2003 was named NBA Rookie of the Year.
The LeBron James Ofshore chronograph has style andpersonality. The pink gold case is topped with a brushed
titanium bezel, and oversized ceramic chronographpushers, with the start/stop button uniquely set withdiamonds. The grey tapisserie dial has applied pink gold
Arabic numerals and blue hands for the chronograph’s
sweep seconds, 30 minute, and 12 hour registers. The
sapphire crystal display back features James’s signaturein blue and provides a window to the highly fnishedmovement featuring an open-worked 22K gold rotor
with anthracite galvanic treatment and raised AP logo.
Presented in unused condition, and complete withguarantee and LeBron James presentation box, the present
chronograph is a dynamic watch that pays tribute both to astellar brand and one of their most famous ambassadors.

26/10/18 09:11

AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Ofshore“LeBron James”

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4. Positano

36.

Blancpain – A very rare, early, and unusual stainless steel anti-magnetic diver’s
wristwatch with black lacquered dial and center seconds.

Manufacturer

BlancpainYear

Circa 1953

Movement No.

300’069’172

Case No.

1121

Model Name

Fify Fathoms

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. AS 1361N, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

41mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$20,000-40,000€17,400-34,700

Even though Blancpain’s Fify Fathoms has been in
production since the early 1950s, scholarship regarding
this fascinating model continues to be written. The storyof its origins are well known, rooted in solving the needsof an elite branch of the French Navy – the Service deDocumentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage– tasked with underwater espionage and other covert
operations. The head of this unit was Captain Bob
Maloubier, and he personally sketched out the watchthat would one day be fully realized as the Blancpain Fify
Fathoms. Maloubier found a champion for his project inBlancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fletcher - a passionate
diver himself. Fletcher named the watch afer thegreatest depth that a combat diver was believed able towithstand at the time.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 110

The watch combined cutting edge features such as
an anti-magnetic and water-resistant case, a screw
down case back, a “double O-ring crown system”, anautomatic movement and a rotating bezel. Extremely
robust and reliable, it was truly designed by military
professionals, and was soon selected by other militaries
around the world for their diving units, including the
U.S. Navy. Earliest examples such as the present lot
have what collectors have dubbed the “Luxor” minutehand, referring to the small separation between the
tip of the hand, resembling the obelisks of Luxor
Temple in Egypt. Another indication of rarity is the gilt
printing of the manufacture and model name, and thenarrower text of ROTOMATIC versus the larger printingof INCABLOC. Later examples would have the dialgraphics printed in white, with ROTOMATIC INCABLOCaligned. The original Bakelite bezel is also remarkablypreserved, with no cracks as is ofen seen.
“Des hautes cimes aux grandes profondeurs” – or,“from high peaks to great depths” – was the phraseused by Blancpain advertisements of the era, andindeed, these watches were meant to attain both –and some certainly did. To fnd such an early example
preserved in such exemplary condition is an exciting
opportunity for collectors.

26/10/18 09:12

BLANCPAIN
Fifty Fathoms

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4. Positano

37.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare platinum perpetual calendar wristwatchwith blue dial and moon phase, certifcate of origin, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2010

Reference No.

5140P

Movement No.

5’551’402

Case No.

4’742’481

Material

Platinum

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 240Q, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000 Σ€34,700-69,500
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated January 14th, 2011
and signed by the retailer Betteridge, Inc., Greenwich, CT, battery
operated automatic ftted presentation box, leather envelope andproduct literature. Further with a Patek Philippe Extract from theArchives confrming production of the present watch with blue
sunburst dial in 2010 and its subsequent sale on December 2nd,2010.

Patek Philippe has always been a perennial favorite amongst
collectors known both for their classic designs and innovativecomplicated movements. The brand has a long history of
exquisite timepieces that since its inception in 1839, haverisen to the top in terms of collector desirability. Their frst
serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatches reach backto 1941 when the brand released the reference 1526, followed

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 112

by other exceptional models like the references 2497 and2438/1 introduced in 1951 as their frst perpetual calendar
with center seconds, the reference 3448 released in 1962
as the frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch,which was replaced in 1981 by the reference 3450 – theirfrst serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatchwith leap year indicator. Patek Philippe introduced thereference 3940 in 1986, replacing the reference 3450,
as a more modern, less angular wristwatch consideredby many enthusiasts as one of the fnest examples ofa complicated timepiece with round case and microrotor-based automatic movement. Its successor, thereference 5140, was introduced in 2006 and continued
to use the prestigious caliber 240Q, however the model
was updated with a slightly larger 37mm diameter case,compared to the 36mm of the 3940. Reference 5140 also
introduced more daring dial colors such as a brown dial
ftted on the rose gold version and a metallic blue dial on
the platinum edition.
The present wristwatch is fresh to the market and in
excellent overall condition, ofered complete with its
original certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box
with electronic winding rotor. The metallic blue dialradiates brilliantly from the platinum case providing
a charismatic appeal and masculine aesthetic. Patek
Philippe’s long line of perpetual calendar wristwatches
are classic timepieces - suitable for all seasons andoccasions, and this exceptional, hardly worn modern
example will surely attract all collectors.

26/10/18 09:13

PATEK PHILIPPE
Re. 5140P

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4. Positano

38.

Omega – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1960

Reference No.

2998-2

Movement No.

17’302’542

Model Name

Speedmaster

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 321, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Omega bracelet, end links stamped
6, max length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Omega deployant clasp, stamped
4.60

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$25,000-50,000€21,700-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by an Omega Extract from the Archives confrming thesale of the present watch to Japan and produced on June 23, 1960

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 114

Omega’s original Speedmaster, the reference 2915, wasthe frst tool watch to feature a tachymeter scale on thebezel opposed to the dial, which had been the norm forchronograph wristwatches throughout the 1930s, 40s,
and 50s. This innovative design would be a game changer
and within a few years, it was employed to many brands.
First released in 1957, the reference 2915 featured thefoundations for all future Speedmaster timepieces, and it
is from this lineage the series of reference 2998 was born.
Released in 1959, early examples like the present watch
used the famed Lemania caliber 321, which is revered
amongst watch enthusiasts for its robust chronographmechanism. The manual wound caliber was used by
Omega from 1946-1968, and while small in size at 27mm
diameter, it ofered optimal performance and reliability.
Early Omega Speedmaster watches are rare in today’s
market and when combined with its original unpolishedcondition, the present chronograph is a collector’s dream.
The dial has aged nicely with the lume plots and hands
matching in a light yellow hue. The very rare “base 1000”
tachymeter has aged beautifully with minor signs ofwear – especially difcult to fnd in such well-preserved
condition. Today, the reference 2998 is an icon known for
its classic modern aesthetic. The legendary Speedmasterwould later be chosen as the watch brought to and wornon the moon, and this early, high quality example ofers agreat opportunity for the savvy collector.

26/10/18 09:15

OMEGA
Ref. 2998-2 Speedmaster

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4. Positano

39.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold perpetual calendar chronographwristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box,
factory double sealed

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

Circa 2006

Reference No.

5970R-001

Movement No.

3’048’949

Case No.

4’439’989

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, clasp signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000 Σ€69,500-104,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming thesale of the present watch on November 16th, 2007 in Newport Beach,
California, product literature, leather wallet, factory box and seal,
inner ftted presentation box and outer box.

Patek Philippe’s reference 5970 was released in 2004 as
the direct successor of the reference 3970 – all descendantsof the frm’s beloved reference 1518. Some 18 years aferthe introduction of reference 3970, Patek Philippe madean unprecedented move with the introduction of thereference 5970 - harmonizing the need for a modern style
while staying true to their classic roots. The new reference

introduced a much larger case, which was in fact 4mm
larger than its predecessor. This change in and of itself
was very well received amongst the collector community
thanks to its superbly balanced proportions that makeit very comfortable to wear. Like its predecessors, thereference 5970 also housed a heavily modifed Lemaniabased caliber similar to the reference 3970. However, the5970 incorporated square pushers as opposed to round– a feature that was last seen on a perpetual calendar
chronograph by Patek Philippe on the frst series examplesof the iconic reference 2499 made during the 1950s.
Reference 5970 was only in production for seven years until
Patek Philippe released the reference 5270 housing its own,
in-house perpetual calendar chronograph movement. The
reference 5970 has since continued to grow in popularity
amongst the collector community, and is highly soughtafer today.

The reference 5970 ofers everything someone would wantin a Patek Philippe including high-quality crafsmanshipboth in aesthetics and mechanics, as well as wearability
and exclusivity. The present example in 18 karat pink gold
represents a very rare opportunity for the connoisseur.
Preserved in new condition, exactly as it lef the factory
over a decade ago, it remains double sealed in its factory
box and comes complete with all boxes, papers, certifcateof origin, and accessories including a second caseback.

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 116

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5970R “Double Sealed”

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4. Positano

40.

Rolex – An extremely fne and very rare yellow gold anti-magnetic chronographwristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1945

Reference No.

3525

Case No.

380’234

Model Name

Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 13’’, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold Rolex riveted stretch
Oyster bracelet, max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold deployant clasp, stamped
Rolex and Gay Frères

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$75,000-100,000€65,100-86,900

Literature
For another example of a reference 3525 however cased in
18K yellow gold and stainless steel, see 100 Superlative Rolex
Watches by John Goldberger, page 84.

A milestone wristwatch within Rolex’s storied legacyof chronographs, the reference 3525 was launched in1939 and remained in production for less than 10 years.
Produced in yellow gold, pink gold, stainless steel, or
the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, the

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_72-119.indd 118

reference 3525 was Rolex’s frst chronograph wristwatch
to be housed in an Oyster case - equipped with a water
resistant screw down case back along with screw downcrown.
This late-production example, evidenced by the serial
number between the lugs, retains its original “Brevet”
Oyster crown and is in overall wonderful condition. The
dial with straight printing at 12 o’clock, typical of later
examples, is incredibly attractive, with a vividly preserved
blue telemeter scale contrasting wonderfully with the goldbullet-shaped indexes and yellow gold handset. The serial
number between the lugs and hallmarks on the undersideof the case are extremely crisp and well-preserved.
Adding a luxurious element to an already superb example,
the bracelet is an early, extensible, straight-end link Oyster
bracelet manufactured by Gay Frères for Rolex. At the time
dubbed “the bracelets which are most frequently copied”
by the company’s advertisements, Gay Frères continued
to produce remarkably well-engineered and now-iconic
bracelets for Rolex and other manufactures for most of the20th century. At a certain point in the 1970s, the Gay Frères
factory employed over 500 specialized employees, thelargest in Geneva.
We are truly excited to present such a beautiful example ofan early Rolex Oyster chronograph, rarely seen in 18 karat
yellow gold.

26/10/18 09:16

ROLEX
Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph

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26/10/18 09:16

5. Business
And why it’s such a big deal

Dressing for work is no longer a straight-forward endeavour. If
you work in a fnancial district, Patrick Bateman’s polished WallStreet guise remains a potent force almost two decades afer
American Psycho hit the screens; if your corporate milieu is of thefoosball-in-the- boardroom variety, there’s nothing wrong with astreetwear/suiting dichotomy. Further complicating things, therules constantly evolve: as recently as the 1970s, strolling out forlunch without a jacket on in any major city could warrant a serious
ticking of in the CEO’s ofce; now, a casual approach to ‘smart’ is
as frmly rooted in corporate culture as digitalisation and watercooler chit-chat.
A major consideration is comfort: what you’re assembling here isa look that you’ll be wearing over at least an eight-hour period,
with lengthy sedentary spells cadenced by active bursts andperhaps a commute (which brings huge variations in temperature
into the mix). Another priority is looking, and feeling, ‘the biz’:
here, one must always keep in mind the imperious clout added
to a man’s demeanour by well-cut suiting (see Gordon Gekko’s
ultra- sharp silhouettes over Adam Sandler’s tailoring-bynumbers in Punch Drunk Love).
Perhaps the most important criterion of all with business attire,
though, is balance: knowing how to negotiate the boundary
between tastefully bold and clumsily famboyant. The au courant
ofce denizen should aim to look inconspicuous yet distinctive,
understated yet bold, efortlessly dapper – these are notoxymorons in the modern professional realm.
And don’t be afraid to bend the rules once you’re sufciently
acquainted with them. Suits with trainers? The answer, thesedays, is “Maybe…”

Lots 41 to 50
The ofce is deceptively the most difcult location to choose
the appropriate watch. So many diferent considerations – age,level, setting, industry – all come into play and lead to a diverse
variety of watches on the wrists of the modern businessperson.
In the end, it all comes down to the efect you wish to haveon your colleagues and counterparts – and perhaps even yourprofessional adversaries. Historically, brands such as Omega
produced watches that would acquit themselves well in
professional environments – such as Omega’s Railmaster, meant
to withstand high levels of magnetism in felds such as scienceand engineering. With the advent of the digital age, comfort andconvenience have taken precedence over timing productivity orwithstanding great depths. Timeliness in the business world istruly next to godliness, so perhaps F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre
à Résonance featuring two independent balances resonatingin synchronicty with each other – as well as permitting twotime displays for tracking international teams – would be an
ideal choice.

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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 121

26/10/18 09:18

5. Business

Mr Porter’s lookLot 42
F.P. Journe. Chronomètre à Résonance, 18K pinkgold, circa 2014

The leading role in this ensemble goes to a six-button,
double-breasted suit from Mr Porter’s Kingsman
collection: a collaboration, named after the movies
starring Colin Firth, with director Matthew Vaughn basedon Arianne Phillips’ costume design. Its high armholes,
wide peak lapels and leg-elongating pinstripes conspireto make the wearer exude authority.
Those who have seen the flms in question will recognise
the glasses and pocket square here as sturdy supporting
cast, while the elegant white shirt and red tie combo comecourtesy of Charvet – the famed French shirt-maker andhaberdasher which counts various royalty and presidents
among its clientele.
The handiwork of another French giant, Berluti, will havecaught the eye of those well-versed in the art of patinas
when it comes to the shoulder bag in rich, supple leather,while the 'Fulham' monk strap shoes in dark oak from
Edward Green complete a look which stakes a loud, if
unspoken, claim on the corner ofce.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 122

Suit by Kingsman
Shirt by Charvet
Tie by Charvet
Briefcase by Berluti
Shoes by Edward Green

26/10/18 09:18

The Rake’s lookLot 47
Patek Philippe. Single Pusher “Ofcier”
chronograph with Breguet numerals, 18K yellow
gold, circa 1928

A pair of cap-toed leather Oxfords from Northamptonshire
shoemaker Edward Green sets an elegant precedent fromthe ground up here, creating an air of dignifed sobriety
ofset immediately by juxtaposition with a burst of colour,
thanks to some orange socks from Jermyn Street outftter
New & Lingwood.
A two-minute walk west from N&L will bring the reader
to the source of the shirt seen here: Turnbull & Asser – aclothier patronised by Sir Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra
and, in the realms of fction, James Bond, among others.
A bespoke business shirt from here will become a focal
point for many an ensemble for many an occasion.
Lardini, the 40-year-old Italian outftter plays protagonist
in this look with a sofly silhouetted charcoal suit with adistinctive navy windowpane check, while Drake’s andEttinger provide the fnishing touches with a patterned
yellow tie and a smart briefcase respectively.

Suit by Lardini
Shirt by Turnbull & Asser
Tie by Drake’s
Briefcase by Ettinger
Shoes by Edward Green

All in all, a gently playful take on traditionalism.

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5. Business

41.

Rolex – A rare, highly attractive, and exceptionally well-preserved yellow gold
dual time wristwatch with center seconds and date

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1971

Reference No.

1675

Movement No.

D059’513

Case No.

2’870’016

Model Name

GMT-Master

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Rolex buckle

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000€10,400-15,600

The Rolex GMT-Master has long established itself asa purpose built sports watch. The reference 6542 was
the frst iteration of the product line and was originallymade for pilots to keep track of “home” and “local” times.
The reference 1675 was its successor, building on themodel’s tool watch lineage, and ofered in stainless steel,stainless steel and gold, and all gold models. The present
example was one of the frst sports watches to be oferedin a solid gold case, catering to a new type of client who
valued utilitarian design with prestige and class. A stylish
alternative of the reference’s original “tool watch” roots, the18K yellow gold case coupled with a suave brown bezel anddial is a reminder of the glitz and glamour air travel used tobe known for.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 124

The example presented is remarkable for its exceptional
state of preservation. Still retaining its original caseback
sticker and showing signs of hardly ever being worn, it
ofers more than just a gold case. Its beautifully aged
brown bezel and nipple dial– now turning the color of afull-bodied red wine– applied Rolex coronet, and sparklinggold lettering give this model substantial depth to its
beauty. The untouched case and matching luminous
further enhance the watch’s appeal. The rich tones of thegold and brown, developed over decades, provide thewearer a glimpse into the golden era of travel. A handsome
example, this GMT-Master ticks all the boxes for both thecasual and serious collector with its distinguished goldcase, beautiful dial, and outstanding condition. It will bringyears of pleasure to its next owner.

26/10/18 09:19

ROLEX
Ref. 1675 GMT-Master

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5. Business

42.

F.P. Journe – A very fne and highly attractive pink gold dual time wristwatchwith double escapement, with original guarantee card and presentation box

Manufacturer

F.P. Journe

Year

Circa 2014

Case No.

350-RN

Model Name

Chronomètre à RésonanceMaterial

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 1499.3, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold F.P. Journe buckle

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 Σ •€17,400-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by F.P. Journe Certifcate of Authenticity showing thistimepiece was purchased at the F.P. Journe boutique in New York on
June 18th, 2014, cleaning cloth, ftted presentation box, and outer box.

become, since its inception in 2000, one of contemporary
horology’s most iconic pieces. It was the world’s frst
wristwatch to use the resonance phenomenon. The
movement is composed of two independent balances,alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”.
When in motion, the balances create the resonance efectand beat in synchrony, naturally evening out each other’s
discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.
Inspired by the work of the great 18th century watchmaker
Antide Janvier, and of course the infuence of AbrahamLouis Breguet, Journe took up the challenge in 1983 to frst
create a pocket-watch using the resonance phenomenon
and followed it with a wristwatch 17 years later. Janvier had
put two pendulum clocks side by side in order to see if thevibrations of one would regulate the other. The conceptof resonance had surfaced as early as 1665, and has
applications in music, electrical engineering, and celestialmechanics among many others.

LOT OFFERED WITH NO RESERVE“Invenit et Fecit” Latin for “I invented it and I made it” haslong been the motto inscribed on every F. P. Journe before it
leaves the atelier of the famed genius and watchmaker François
Paul Journe. With an eye on technical innovation for superior
timekeeping, the brand has always sought to create watches
that are both beautifully designed and technical works of art.
In keeping with this ethos, the Chronomètre à Résonance has

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 126

Not only a wonderful tribute to technical watchmaking,this now discontinued version of the Chronomètre à
Résonance is also an extremely useful dual time watchwith a superbly executed design. The combination of the
18 karat rose gold case with the rose gold dial and subtle
grey accents efects a sumptuous aesthetic. This watch isfurthermore presented with its full complement of original
accessories and is preserved in wonderful condition.

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F.P. JOURNE
Chronomètre à Résonance

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5. Business

43.

Jaeger-LeCoultre – A very fne and extremely rare stainless steel diver’s
wristwatch with alarm function, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation boxes

Manufacturer

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Year

1959

Reference No.

E857

Movement No.

1’389’462

Case No.

775’309

Model Name

Deep Sea Alarm

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. K815, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel LeCoultre bracelet, max length
190mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel LeCoultre deployant clasp

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$60,000-120,000€52,100-104,000
Accessories
Accompanied by original guarantee, inner and outer box. Further
accompanied by Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives
confrming the production of the present timepiece in 1959 with dialsigned “LeCoultre”.
Literature
The reference E857 is discussed in Zaf Basha’s Jaeger-LeCoultre: A
Guide for the Collector, p. 138.

There are diferent categories of vintage dive watches:
those that are interesting, diferent, technical, aesthetic,rare or original and there are those that encompass all these
attributes and more, making them grails amongst collectors.
The present LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm is undoubtedly aproud member of this exclusive club.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 128

Historically important in context and technically innovative forthe time, the LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm was the frst automatic
diver’s wristwatch with an alarm function. Introduced in 1959,
it was only produced until 1962, leading to a total of 1,061
examples manufactured. The frst dive watch from JaegerLeCoultre, and hot on the heels of the success of other early
1950s diver’s watches, the Deep Sea Alarm incorporated the“Memovox” alarm complication to set it apart. The alarm would
inform the diver when it was time to return to the surface,rather than using a rotating bezel, making it the frst diving
watch ever with alarm.
Its extreme rarity and striking aesthetics has led the reference
E857 to be highly prized by collectors. In fact, only a handful of
Deep Sea Alarms have shown up at public auctions in the past
years and even less have survived in such condition due to theharsh underwater environment they were used in. Illustrating
the model’s importance, in 2011, Jaeger LeCoultre reintroduced
this model in a limited edition dubbed Tribute to Deep Sea
Alarm.
It was produced in two iterations: one signed “LeCoultre” forthe American market, and the other with dial signed “JaegerLeCoultre” for the European market. Scholarship shows that
the LeCoultre version, such as the present lot, is the rarer
variant. The present example, from 1959 - the frst year of
production, is in pristine condition. Its fawless and beautifully
aged dial, perfectly preserved case back engravings, andoriginal bracelet attest to the exceptional condition of thiswatch. Further enhancing its appeal is the presence of its
original guarantee and inner and outer presentation boxes.
It’s amongst the very fnest examples of the Deep Sea Alarmto ever surface, and Phillips is proud to ofer it for the very frst
time at public auction.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Deep Sea Alarm

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5. Business

44.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold world time wristwatch withcloisonné enamel dial in factory seal, with original ftted presentation box
and certifcate of orgin

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2013

Reference No.

5131G-010

Movement No.

5’732’849

Case No.

4’617’875

Model NameWorld Time

Material

18K white gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 240 HU, 33 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$80,000-160,000 Σ€69,500-139,000
Accessories
Accompanied by ftted box, Certifcate of Origin, hang tag,product literature and leather wallet, inner and outer box.
Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of this timepiece with cloisonné enamel dial
depicting Europe-Asia in 2013 and its subsequent sale on July 11th,2013.

The reference 5131 is Patek Philippe’s latest generation worldtime wristwatch, following a long line of exquisite world-time
wristwatches from the famed manufacture, drawing its
technical and aesthetic inspiration from the legendary pocket
watches and wristwatches produced by the brand since themid-20th century.

World-time watches were invented, as is the case withmost innovations, out of necessity. With the advent of theindustrial age came the means necessary to facilitate global
trade and travel and, as a direct result, there was a need fortimekeeping devices capable of tracking time in multiple
locations. Between 1930 and 1931, Louis Cottier designed
an ingenious, ultra-thin mechanism that simultaneously
displayed the correct hours across the world’s time zones
through a rotating 24-hour ring, in addition to the local time.
The city of choice (local time zone) would be set at the 12
o’clock position with the hours/minutes hand set at local
time. The design was superb in its simplicity, and remains
in use until the present day. Extremely user friendly, theworld-time display indicates the correct time in both hours
and minutes, night and day, for nearly every time zone in theworld simultaneously, while clearly indicating local time - all
via a single dial.
Patek Philippe has since then embraced the artistic
opportunities worthy of such a poetic yet practicalcomplication, and in many instances, combined it with oneof their most exclusive métiers d’arts creations - cloisonné
enamel. In this example, the vibrant cloisonné enamel
center disc depicts the Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceania ina wonderful array of blues, greens, browns, and yellows all
outlined in fne gold. A well-balanced 40mm in diameter, thismodern horological masterpiece marries the old and the new
perfectly, and is sure to be the perfect companion for thewell-traveled connoisseur. Fresh to the market, the present
lot is complete with all accessories, still sealed and neverbeen used before.

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5131G “World Time Cloisonné Dial”

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5. Business

45.

Bulova – A very fne and historically important stainless steel chronographwristwatch, presented to President Dwight D. Eisenhower by Bulova Watch
Company Chairman, Arde Bulova

Manufacturer

BulovaYear

1941

Case No.

214’797, underside of lug additionally stamped 797

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 13 AH, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Gay Frères beads-of-rice bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel deployant clasp, signed Gay Frères,stamped 4.61

Dimensions
Signed32mm Diameter
Case, dial, and movement signed. Movement
additionally stamped “BXW” for import to theUnited States and marked with an asterisk, dating
the watch to 1941.

Estimate$10,000-15,000€8,700-13,000
Accessories
Accompanied by a signed provenance letter and a photo of General
Dwight D. Eisenhower and his wife, Mamie Doud Eisenhower.

The story of Bulova fts securely within the archetypal American
success story. Founded in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant, Joseph
Bulova, the frm would become vital to the American economy,
with important ties to the U.S. government. Indeed, Bulova
would provide watches to NASA, the CIA, and the U.S. Navy.
Arde Bulova, Joseph’s son, rose to the level of vice-president
at Bulova in 1911 at age 26. It was Arde who shepherded Bulova
through the turbulent times of the First and Second World
Wars, as well as the Great Crash of 1929 and the subsequentGreat Depression. Bulova became an ardent supporter ofthe American military and the government. Afer WWII, heestablished the Bulova Watchmaking School, which employed

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 132

veterans, particularly those wounded or disabled. Arde Bulova’s
brother-in-law, Henry D. Henshel, had served under General
Omar Bradley in WWII, and Bradley would become Chairman of
the Board from 1958 to 1973.
Bradley and Dwight D. Eisenhower both graduated from theUnited States Military Academy at West Point in 1915, part ofthe class known as “the class the stars fell on”. As President,
Eisenhower would go on to increase the tarif on imported
watches, a move passionately supported by Bulova, an American
watchmaking company.
Though it is uncertain when the present watch was presented toEisenhower, the caseback engraving is similar to others Bulova
presented to luminaries of the time. How it lef Eisenhower’s
possession, however, is documented in the accompanying
provenance letter. First Lady Mamie Doud Eisenhower was anative of Boone, Iowa and her uncle, Joel Carlson was given thewatch by Eisenhower during one of their frequent visits to Boone.
The watch was then given to a local jeweler, Walter Donald
Eckstein, for repair. Afer years of ownership, Eckstein ofered
him a new Bulova wristwatch in exchange for the chronographgiven to Eisenhower. The watch was sent to Bulova for cleaning
in the 1970s and was subsequently returned to Eckstein with thenote “no charge, courtesy of the factory.” The watch remained in
the Eckstein family until this year.
Aside from its important American provenance, the present
chronograph is delightful, boasting a beautiful black glossy
dial with gilt printing and luminous hands, ideal for a fve-star
general. The movement, a Valjoux VZ ébauche fnished andsigned by Bulova, is marked with the Bulova date stamp for
1941 – the year the United States entered the WWII. The current
lot presents a unique opportunity to own a part of American
watchmaking history.

26/10/18 09:21

BULOVA“Presented To
General Dwight D. Eisenhower”

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5. Business46.

Rolex – A very fne and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch withsuspended logo and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1990

Reference No.

16520, inside caseback stamped 16500

Movement No.

42’100Case No.

E’956’062

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Floating Cosmograph”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference
78360, endlinks stamped no. 503

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
no. 09Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000€17,400-26,100

Literature
For another example of a reference 16520 with black dial andsuspended logo, please see The Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci
Papaleo, pages 256 and 257.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 134

Reference 16520 is among Rolex’s most innovative models
to date. Housing a heavily modifed Zenith-based caliber
4030 mechanism, the model was ftted with the frst
automatic chronograph movement in the frm’s history.
At the time of its launch in 1988, the watch garnered an
immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers – much like its
descendent, the reference 116500 would do in 2016.
Two dial features make this early automatic Rolex
Daytona even more collectible: the detached or “foating”
Cosmograph designation seen in the frst two or three years
of production, and the “inverted 6” on the hour totalizer.
These details, inconsequential to the layman, are of utmost
importance in the vintage Rolex collecting realm, adding
rarity and desirability to an already popular reference.
The present watch is also ofered in incredible condition,with truly no signs of wear. It has been preserved by thecurrent owner in such immaculate condition as a testament
to the watch’s historical importance and rarity.

26/10/18 09:22

ROLEX
Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona“Floating Cosmograph”

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5. Business47.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare
and highly attractive yellow gold single
button chronograph wristwatch withhinged ofcer-style wire lug case andBreguet numerals

With only 27 examples known to the market, Patek
Philippe’s single-button chronographs are amongst
the rarest and most sought afer in the feld ofcomplicated wristwatches.
Regardless of brand, chronograph watches are oneof the most useful and desirable of all timepieces on
the market today. There is a palpable passion andattention to detail amongst connoisseurs and scholars
when discussing their favorite chronographs - from theiconic case designs to the intricacies and architecturesof revered movements. The frst chronograph watch
is attributed to Louis Moinet, a French watchmaker,
who in 1816 completed an instrument he called“Compteur de Tierces” or counter of thirds. His
mechanism featured a high frequency movement with
60th seconds counter, along with elapsed seconds
and minutes, all with a zero reset function. Over theensuing years manufacturers developed new andinnovative chronograph movements, and by the early
20th century the frst truly modern chronographwristwatches were available.

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26/10/18 09:22

Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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5. Business47.

Patek Philippe – An extremely rare and highly attractive yellow gold single
button chronograph wristwatch with hinged ofcer-style wire lug case andBreguet numerals

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1928

Movement No.

198’215

Case No.

292’634

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, Victorin Piguet, cal. 13”, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Modern 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

34mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement and clasp signed.

Estimate$300,000-500,000 Σ Δ€261,000-434,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming productionof the present watch with painted black Breguet numerals in 1928 andits subsequent sale on April 6th, 1933.
Literature
A similar reference single button chronograph with ofcer case inyellow gold, bearing the case number 292’636 and the movement
number 198’228 is catalogued in Patek Philippe Museum - Patek
Philippe Watches: Volume II, pp. 259.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 138

The present single button ofcer-cased chronographwristwatch by Patek Philippe is an extremely rare exampleof these earliest wristwatch chronographs, and one of only
16 single button chronographs known with a hinged “Ofcer”
case. Manufactured in 1928 and sold in 1933, it is interesting
to note the watch was sold during the Great Depression, tomost probably an important client who could still aford theluxury of a Patek Philippe watch. Inside the gorgeous, doublehinged ofcer case ticks an immaculately fnished column
wheel chronograph movement. The ébauche was made byVictorin Piguet & Co. of Le Sentier, which during the early 20th
century was one of the world’s most important makers of highquality complicated movements - in particular, single button
chronographs, split-seconds chronographs, minute repeating,and perpetual calendar watches. Patek Philippe’s productionof single button chronographs ended in the late 1930s, not tobe repeated until the 21st century.
Fresh to the market, this single button chronograph is acharismatic and elegant watch that will delight collectors
for its beauty, rarity, and overall excellent condition. The
34mm diameter “Ofcer” case with hinged back and cuvetteis reminiscent of pocket watches, however its size, which
was considered large for the period adds to the desirabilityof this early chronograph, and with its dramatic wire lugs,
has a surprisingly modern aesthetic. The timelessly styled
dial features gorgeous, enameled Breguet numerals that are
confrmed on the extract from the archives. The chronographwristwatch is one of the most alluring of timepieces, and thepresent single button model is an important and wonderfulexample from the early 20th century - looking as good today
as it did 90 years afer its production.

26/10/18 09:23

PATEK PHILIPPE
Single Pusher “Ofcier”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 139

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5. Business48.

Omega – An extremely rare, large, and well-preserved stainless steel
anti-magnetic wristwatch

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1957

Reference No.

2914-1

Movement No.

15’330’563

Model Name

Railmaster

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 284, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Omega ladder bracelet, end links

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

stamped no. 6, additional leather strap

Estimate$15,000-30,000€13,000-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming the
production of the watch on September 6, 1957 and its subsequentdelivery to Sweden.
Literature
A similar example, but of a reference 2914-2, is illustrated in John
Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 86-87.

There is nothing quite like the appeal of the original, and thepresent lot is one of the best preserved examples of the very
frst generation Omega Railmasters to appear on the market.
Omega was experimenting with anti-magnetic wristwatches
as early as 1924 and up until 1952, but it was not until therelease of the Railmaster in 1957, alongside the frst iterationsof the Seamaster and the Speedmaster, that the manufacture
serially produced an anti-magnetic watch incorporating the
culmination of their research and technical advancement.
The Railmaster had relatively little success, in part due toits niche target market as well as strong competition fromcontemporaries like the Rolex Milgauss, the IWC Ingenieur
reference 666, and the Blancpain Fify-Fathoms. This resulted
in both lower production numbers and a narrower production
run of only six years (1957-1963), making original Railmasterwatches from this era especially rare.

The classic “broad arrow” hands, sharp, dagger-like luminous
indexes, and beautiful matte black dial – all original andin superb condition in the present lot - is typical of theRailmaster, Seamaster and Speedmaster, though theRailmaster design is the simplest of them all, with no diving
or tachymeter bezel. Its case measures a large 38 millimeters
in diameter, thanks in part to the presence of a sof iron
inner case. Inside ticks a noteworthy time-only movementwith sweep seconds – the caliber 285, used only from 19571958. The inner case providing anti-magnetic protectionof the movement, was made of “mu-metal” a nickel-ironalloy, acting as a Faraday cage. Early Railmasters such as
the present lot did not feature caseback engravings, andthe dial itself was 1.0 millimeter thick, as opposed to the 0.4
millimeter thickness found on later dials.
Despite a lukewarm reception at its launch, modern revivalsof the Railmaster remain popular, and a focus on antimagnetism remains central to Omega’s current oferings. In
fact, it was this exact model, the 2914-1, that Omega usedas the tomographical blueprint for the reissue of the 1957
Trilogy 60th anniversary limited edition piece, released in2017 to much fanfare. Finding another in such original andappealing condition is no easy feat, rendering this a veryrare opportunity for the collector of vintage watches to own
a best-in-class example of a landmark reference from thestoried Omega brand.

The frst Railmaster was manufactured with the ability towithstand between 900 and 1000 gauss, specifcally for
those in professions required to withstand magnetic felds
beyond what is considered normal. Many vintage watches in
the modern age, however, can be afected by magnetic felds
through innocent actions such as air travel and exposure
to everyday electronics such as laptops. According toadvertisements of the time, the Railmaster was targeted to“scientists, technicians, electricians, etc., who worked in close
proximity to electrical currents.” Additionally, the Railmasterwas water-resistant to 60 meters, or 200 feet.

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OMEGA
Ref. 2914-1 Railmaster

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5. Business

49.

Rolex – A fne and attractive stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch withcenter seconds and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1968

Reference No.

1019

Movement No.

M’210’703

Case No.

2’012’709

Model Name

Milgauss

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1580, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Later stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped
78360, end links stamped 580, max overall length
220mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped
78360 and MA2

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000€13,000-21,700

Rolex has long been associated with “tool” wristwatches, which
originally were designed with a functional purpose in mind, buttoday they have become icons amongst watch connoisseurs,
both for their modern masculine design and innovative
mechanical performance. From their collaboration withPan American Airways and the GMT-Master dual time zone
wristwatch, to the Submariner watch for professional deep-sea
divers, these timepieces have captured the imagination ofcollectors and are today highly sought afer in the international
market. The Milgauss, reference 1019, is another example

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 142

of a Rolex sports model that today enjoys considerable
prestige beyond its original intent, but is a watch that due
to its niche target market, was not considered a commercial
success. Originally released in 1954, the Milgauss reference
6541 was designed to meet the needs of scientists andengineers working in a magnetic environment. Rolex worked
in collaboration with the Conseil Européen de Recherche
Nucléaire, or CERN, to develop a watch that could withstandstrong magnetic felds. The timepiece’s name derived fromthe Latin word “mille” for 1000, and “Gauss” the unit ofmeasure for magnetism, it was a watch that could withstand1000 Gauss of magnetism with no efect on timekeeping
precision. Typical watches of the era could only withstandup to 70-90 gauss. Along with its companion piece thereference 6543, the two remained in production until the
beginning of the 1960s when Rolex released the reference
1019 to replace these models.
The reference 1019, likes its predecessors, featured a sof
iron cage surrounding the movement. The new model was
thinner and produced in stainless steel only. It remainedin production until 1990. The present example is wellpreserved and checks all the boxes savvy collectors lookfor in vintage timepieces. The unpolished case has strong
proportions and sharp clean lines with a smooth polishedbezel. The silvered dial has luminous plots and luminous
dashes at the 3-6-9, with the model name boldly printed in
red below the Rolex signature. The present wristwatch has
a sophisticated mid-century modern aesthetic and whencompared to better known Rolex “tool” watches, ofers
great value while being a pleasure to wear.

26/10/18 09:23

Maker ROLEX
xxxxxxRef. 1019xxxxxx
Milgauss
Watch

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5. Business

50.

Patek Philippe – A very rare and fne platinum and diamond-set wristwatchwith date and original certifcate of origin, retailed by Beyer

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1963

Reference No.

3445

Movement No.

1’120’400

Case No.

313’512Model Name

Monodate

Material

Platinum and diamonds

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 27-460M, 37 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000 Σ€34,700-69,500
Accessories
With original Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin signed
Chronometrie Beyer and dated August 30, 1963. Further
accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confrming productionof the present watch with diamond numerals in 1963 and its
subsequent sale on March 8th, 1963.
Literature
For other examples of the reference 3445 see Patek Philippe
Wristwatches, Huber and Banbery, Vol. II, Second Edition,
pp. 220-221.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 144

Patek Philippe’s reference 3445 was the brand’s frst
serially produced automatic waterproof simple calendar
wristwatch. Released in 1961 and manufactured until
approximately 1981, it was a watch with a modern
aesthetic that perfectly suited the well-dressed businessman. Available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as
platinum, the case measured 35mm in diameter and was
ftted with the outstanding caliber 27-460M (Monodate)featuring a date window at the 3 position. Over theensuing years, three series were made with the frst
similar to the present watch, the 2nd series made in thelate 1970s featuring a higher bezel to accommodate asapphire crystal, and the third series featuring a sapphire
display back. The model was also made with integrated
bracelets, as well as with Stern Frères dials in silver,
champagne, blue and later with grey dial with white
Roman numerals.
The present watch is a lovely and rare example with
its platinum case and diamond-set numerals (heuresbrilliants). The exceptional original condition is further
enhanced by the addition of the original Certifcate ofOrigin which is signed and dated by Chronometrie Beyer,
Zürich, August 30, 1963. The majority of the reference
3445 were produced in gold, and the platinum anddiamond dial models are very rare, with only 10 known
to date. This wristwatch is a classic and has a versatility
that makes it both a formal dress watch, but also astunning everyday watch. For collectors of both simple
and complicated timepieces, this unusual and highly
attractive Monodate presents a rare opportunity.

26/10/18 09:24

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3445

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26/10/18 09:25

6. Eveningwear
How to own an entrance

Those who think the words “black tie” on an invitation stand forsartorial constraint have a wonderful world of evening wardrobe
to explore: for this is a stylistic genre that has evolved into agloriously multifarious afair since the future King Edward VII, in
1865, commissioned a jacket in dark blue silk at Savile Row’s Henry
Poole & Co, which went on to become named afer Tuxedo Park inOrange County, New York. (A separate theory credits the tux towealthy tobacco heir Griswold Lorillard – but that’s another story.)
Dinner jackets alone can involve a glorious number of
permutations you won’t encounter down at the hire shop.
Double-breasted coats work just as well as single-breasted;
midnight blue is now a widely accepted alternative to the more
traditional black, but white can look literally dazzling, and bolder
faneurs are ofen seen in mauve, tobacco or even Tartan. Velvet
might easily make way for wool, meanwhile, and peak or shawl
lapels are both acceptable (although notch is a no-no).
Your bow-tie can be smooth silk or grosgrain, your shirt cotton
or linen (with a whole range of diferent bib fronts on ofer),
while your shoes can adhere to a number of classic formal styles(although some men with more foppish inclinations are now – asseen here - opting for velvet slip-ons). So, time to throw of theshackles – this a rich and rewarding area of sartorial exploration.
As Dean Martin once put it: “In regular clothes, I’m a nobody.
In a tuxedo, I’m a star.”

Lots 51 to 60
Two clichés summarize evening wristwatch wear: one, the devil isin the details, and two, rules are made to be broken – especiallyin this ever more casual world. Whether attending a high-profle,
black tie wedding, or a New York charity gala, an appropriately
glamorous watch is necessary to complement the outft andproperly fête the occasion. Classic, slim profles in precious
metals and small case diameters used to dominate the wrists ofthe tuxedo-clad; nowadays, you are just as likely to see a 44mm
complicated masterpiece by Jaeger-LeCoultre as you are to spot
a unique platinum Patek Philippe with diamond-set dial andarchitectural lugs. If it fts under the cuf, it works – and if there are
diamonds on the dial, all the better.

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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 147

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6. Eveningwear

Mr Porter’s lookLot 60
Cartier. Tank Americaine reference 1734,
platinum, circa 1998

“Menswear,” according to American fashion titan Tom
Ford, “is a detail-driven business.” His label certainly lives
up to that axiom here with a black, slim-ft, satin-lapelled‘Shelton’ tux lovingly made in Italy. “I think a suit shouldmake you feel younger, trimmer,” Ford has also remarked,
which goes a long way to explaining the svelte silhouettehere. “It should make your shoulders look broad and yourwaist and hips look smaller.”
The former Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent creative director’s
eponymous brand is also behind the cummerbund seen
here, as well as the ensemble’s quirky piece de resistance:the ‘Leeds’ chain-trimmed velvet loafers which, paired witha Brunello Cucinelli bow tie and Deakin & Francis enamelled
18-karat gold diamond cufinks, make for a look which isunderstatedly dashing but with a splash of famboyance.
Such an approach’s linchpin is a dress shirt with gently
embellished bib-front, here provided by Salle Privée, anultra-modernist brand launched in October 2016 by Dutch
designer Patrick Munsters.

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Suit by TOM FORD
Shirt by SALLE PRIVÉE
Bow tie by Brunello Cucinelli
Loafers by TOM FORD
Cummerbund by TOM FORD
Cufinks by TOM FORD

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The Rake’s lookLot 59Patek Philippe. Reference 1589 with diamondset dial, platinum, circa 1950

White, wool, one-button, shawl collar, silk covered buttons…
This tux is a neat demonstration of the “carte blanche”
nature of eveningwear, courtesy of the sartorial wizardry thestyle intelligentsia have come to expect at No.1 Savile Row:home to Gieves & Hawkes.
Turnbull & Asser again provide the shirt here – as they havefor many of 007’s nocturnal outings – while the bow-tie isfrom Cifonelli (a Parisian tailor which has produced a goodnumber of immaculately silhouetted Tuxedos of its own overthe decades). Birmingham specialists Deakin & Francis areon cufink duty, this pair in sterling silver with pearl inlays
bringing a subtle hint of colour to the whole efect.
A white pocket square from London purveyors of classic
British elegance Drakes is another quiet nod to restrained
elegance, while the black tie itself is twinned, chromatically,
with a pair of black patent leather oxfords boasting that
distinctive last profle of George Cleverley.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 149

Suit by Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt by Turnbull & Asser
Bow tie by Cifonelli
Shoes by George Cleverley
Cufinks by Deakin & Francis

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6. Eveningwear

51.

Patek Philippe – A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with
Breguet numerals

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1942

Reference No.

96

Movement No.

921’987

Case No.

397’636

Model Name

Calatrava

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 12-120 PS, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

30.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$4,000-7,000 Σ€3,500-6,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1942 with Breguet
numerals and its subsequent sale on October 16, 1942.

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The reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe
production, and the frst example of what is today
possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress
watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it
was not only the frst Calatrava, but also one of the Patek
Philippe’s frst models to feature a reference number(the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932).
The reference 96 was also amongst Patek Philippe’s
frst models to apply the Bauhaus design principle of“form follows function”. Indeed there are no additional
and unnecessary adornments or decorations. The piece
achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, andelegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered themodel against which every and all dress watches should
be compared – a true benchmark for the category.
Throughout its production cycle, many variations were
made, with a diverse range of dials that collectors
even today enjoy discovering. The present example isthat of the second series, produced between 1935 and1953, ftted with a caliber 12-120 movement. Especiallysought afer are those with Breguet numerals such as
the present example, which also bears a beautiful anddelicate pair of spade-shaped hands, creating a uniquely
elegant dial layout.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 96 Calatrava“Breguet Numerals”

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6. Eveningwear

52.

Rolex – An exceptional and rare yellow gold and diamond-set Chevrolet 75th
Anniversary wristwatch with date, bracelet, original guarantee, presentation
box, hang tags, and related material

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1986

Reference No.

16018

Movement No.

1’759’954

Case No.

9’498’694, inside case back further stamped withcase number and 16000

Model Name

Datejust, “Chevrolet”

Material

18K yellow gold and diamond-set

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, end links
stamped no. 49

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
8386

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$8,000-12,000€6,900-10,400
Accessories
Accompanied by original guarantee dated April 1987 and stamped
Chev-Pontiac Canada GRP, Rolex wood and leather presentation box
with “Diamond Jubliee Award 1911-1986” medallion, hang tags, two“Chevrolet 75, 1911-1986” pins, “The Chevrolet Story” pamphlet andRolex Japan service record and International Service Guarantee dated
2016/11/29.

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The present Chevrolet DateJust celebrates the prestigious car
manufacturer’s 75th anniversary in 1986, and was awarded
to dealers with excellent sales records. The Chevrolet
Motor Company was established in Detroit Michigan in1911 by Swiss race car driver and engineer Louis Chevrolet
along with partners William C. Durant, William Little, James
H. Whiting and Edwin R. Campbell. By 1919 the frm had
factories throughout the US and in Oshawa Canada, as wellas introduced trucks in their line-up. The commercial jingle“See the U. S. A. in Your Chevrolet” became a popular andfamiliar tune in the 1950s and 60s, and demonstrated theclose connection between the maker and the American public.
Today, Chevrolet is an international brand with sales across theglobal from Asia and Europe to the Americas.
In virtually unused condition, the present watch is a lovely
example of these rare timepieces and comes with original
guarantee stamped APR 1987 Chev-Pontiac Canada GRP,
wood and leather presentation box with “Diamond Jubilee
1911-1986 Award” emblem, hang tags, two “Chevrolet 75 19111986” pins, “The Chevrolet Story” brochure, product literature
and Rolex service papers. The original dial features the famed
Chevy “bowtie” logo design with diamond-set numerals and as
the historical brochure points out the frm’s Diamond Jubilee
celebrates strength and endurance, similar qualities found in adiamond. The case back is further engraved “Diamond Jubilee
1911-1986 Award”. The Rolex DateJust is one most iconic
models, with a history reaching back to the 1940s, this present
Jubilee timepiece is an extraordinary example of the modeland with its connection to another historic brand, it makes awonderful addition to a collection of fne Rolex watches.

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ROLEX
Ref. 16018 Datejust “Chevrolet”

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6. Eveningwear

53.

Rolex – A very fne and highly attractive platinum and diamond-set calendar
wristwatch with center seconds, blue lacquer dégradé dial and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1998

Reference No.

18026, inside caseback stamped 2096

Movement No.

7’994’985

Case No.

A656056

Model Name

Day-Date

Material

Platinum

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Platinum Rolex President bracelet, end links
stamped 55B, max length 190mm

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Rolex concealed deployant clasp,stamped no. 8385

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 O€17,400-26,100

Literature
For a similar example of a Rolex Day-Date with diamonds and blue
dégradé dial but with a futed bezel, please see Pucci Papaleo
Editore’s Day-Date: The Presidential Rolex, pp. 308-309.

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Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued
to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad
combinations were made possible by the variety of dials
and case materials, the innumerable bezel patterns, andthe diferent bracelet assortments. With the Day-Date,
Rolex was able to ofer almost bespoke wristwatches thatwould excite their global clientele – as simple or as lavish
as a customer could desire. The Day-Date is additionallynotable for its ability to grace the wrist of any genderdue not only to its perfectly balanced case size but also
an uncanny knack of taking on the persona of its wearer.
Whether worn as an embellishment, status symbol,
or versatile daily companion, the Day-Date is instantly
recognizable and much beloved.
The current watch possesses a number of superlative
features: an unpolished case in the noblest of metals,
an attractive and sleek smooth bezel, double quick-set
function for the day and the date, and beautiful dégradé
blue dial set with brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds. The
latter element truly sets this piece apart. The futed bezel
version featured in Pucci Papaleo Editore’s Day-Date:
The Presidential Rolex is nicknamed “Poseidon”, and it iseasy to see how the blue centripetal color gradient would
inspire notions of the Greek God of the seas. Starting at
a dark navy – almost black – at the outermost parts of
the lacquered dial and smoothly transitioning to a vibrantocean blue, the dégradé (or “vignette”) efect is quitearresting. Paired with perfectly aged luminous plots andvibrant diamonds at the hour markers, this mid-1990s DayDate is elegant opulence at its best.

26/10/18 09:28

ROLEX
Ref. 18026 Day-Date“Dégradé Blue”

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6. Eveningwear

54.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, attractive, and rare white gold skeletonized
wristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2010

Reference No.

5180/1

Movement No.

3’719’033

Case No.

4’487’436

Model Name

Squelette

Material

18K white gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 240 SQU, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, max
length 185mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe double
deployant clasp

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, movement and claps signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000€26,100-43,400
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch in 2010 and its subsequent saleon June 14th, 2010.

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Skeletonized watches have always been a favorite amongst
collectors since the movement is readily available to viewby the wearer. Watches are mechanical instruments thathave an operational purpose, which is to tell time; however,for watch enthusiast, the movement is the heart of thewatch and the intricacy of its components the source ofendless fascination. Patek Philippe’s reference 5180, theSquelette, is a fully skeletonized wristwatch with superbly
hand-engraved and chased bridges and movement plates,
seen between two large sapphire crystals, that have anartistic fair. Fitted with a micro-rotor, the caliber 240 SQU
is an ultra-thin movement that adds to the overall eleganceand clean lines of the reference 5180.
The reference was introduced by Patek Philippe in 2008
and met with great enthusiasm from the collecting
community. The large case, measuring a substantial 39
mm in diameter, is highly attractive on the wrist and withthe 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet, provides anelegant and sophisticated aesthetic that is suitable forboth day and night. The reference was so admired that
Patek Philippe would ofer a unique titanium version in2009 for the charity Children Action auction, selling for
520,000CHF. The present example makes a glamorous
addition to a collection of modern Patek Philippe watchesofering diversity, unparalleled crafsmanship, and quality.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5180G Squelette

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6. Eveningwear

55.

Jaeger-LeCoultre – A very rare and attractive, limited edition, semi-skeletonized
platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with multi-axis spherical tourbillon,
retrograde date, month and leap year indication, eight day power reserve andequation of time, with certifcate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Year

Circa 2004

Reference No.

149.6.07.S

Case No.

No. 33 of 75

Model Name

Gyrotourbillon 1

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, cal. 177, 117 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Jaeger-LeCoutre deployant clasp

Dimensions

44mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$100,000-200,000 Σ O€86,900-174,000
Accessories
With Jaeger-LeCoultre unsigned and undated Guarantee Certifcate,undated Certifcate of Authenticity confrming the present lot
is number 33 of 75 pieces, instruction manual, wooden JaegerLeCoultre presentation box, Gyrotourbillon 1 book and loupe

Launched in 2004 Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Gyrotourbillon 1
wristwatch is a stellar complication timepiece developedby master watchmaker Eric Coudray and designer Magali
Metrailler. The caliber 177 is composed of 679 individual parts,
117 jewels and features an array of complications including a
multi-axis tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde datesector and month and leap year indication. In addition, its
movement provides eight days of power reserve and features

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 158

a “running” equation of time indication that displays thediference between solar time and mean time. Solar time isindicated by the minute hand tipped with a small sun, whichsometimes runs ahead or behind the minute hand. Bothhands are synchronized four times a year.
With its introduction, it allowed the Jaeger-LeCoultre to
become not just a haute horlogerie brand, it elevated thebrand into a haute horlogerie movement maker. At the timeof its release, there were few if any multi-axis tourbillon
watches ofered on the market. This amazing technicaladvancement was constructed of two carriages on two axis
and diferent timing, with the external rotating every 60
seconds and the internal every 24 seconds, completing 2.5
turns per minute, thus allowing for correction of gravitational
errors in all positions. The speed and continuous motion of
the spherical tourbillon display will absolutely mesmerize andfascinate its wearer.
The present example, no. 33 in the series of just 75
timepieces, is in excellent condition and accompanied with
its original certifcate of origin and presentation box. Whenit was frst released, the Gyrotourbillon 1 was the mostcomplicated watch made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It pushed theboundaries of mechanical watchmaking and opened the door
for a new era of complicated timepieces that are not only
visually stimulating, but also technical marvels that are a joy
to contemplate.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE“Gyrotourbillon 1”

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6. Eveningwear

56.

Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel and pink gold
chronograph wristwatch with triple calendar and tachymeter scale

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1947

Reference No.

4768

Case No.

584’515

Model Name

Dato Compax

Material

Stainless steel and pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$20,000-40,000 Σ€17,400-34,700
Accessories
With Rolex presentation box
Literature
For other examples of the reference 4768 see I Cronograf Rolex La Leggenda, Pucci Papaleo Editore, pp. 366-371.

While Rolex is most ofen recognized for their tool watches
like the Submariner, GMT-Master and Explorer models,
their mid-20th century production included elegant andinnovative gentlemens’ timepieces that today are highly
desirable and sought afer for their rarity and charm.
The reference 4768 was the brand’s frst antimagnetic

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triple calendar chronograph wristwatch, and while
ofcially known as the “Dato Compax” its Oyster-cased
counterpart became associated with the famed French
Olympic skier and Rolex Board of Directors member
Jean-Claude Killy. In total, fve Dato Compax models
were manufactured with the reference 4768 being
the only one made with a non-Oyster case. Released
in 1947, research indicates only 220 examples of thereference were produced, and were available in stainlesssteel, yellow and pink gold, as well as two tone models
like the present watch in stainless steel with either ayellow or pink gold bezel.
Fresh-to-the-market from the family of the original
owner, this reference 4768 is in excellent condition
with both the case and dial in original and untouched
condition. The lovely two-tone dial with pink andsilvered date chapter ring is completely original and wellpreserved, having been spared needless cleaning, withthe case remaining unpolished. While the watch waslovingly worn and has age consistent with a timepiecethat is now 70 years old, it is a treasure to fnd an sucha clean and original example, and it is further enhancedwith a Valjoux 72C-based movement, one of the mostreliable known. Today’s savvy collectors are always
looking for rare watches that not only add historicalvalue to their collection, but also pieces that make astatement, and the reference 4768 is a mid-century
watch that demonstrates the design strengths of theRolex brand.

26/10/18 09:29

ROLEX
Ref. 4768 “Dato-Compax”

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6. Eveningwear

57.

Breguet – An extremely fne and very rare platinum perpetual calendar
wristwatch with power reserve and equation of time

Manufacturer

BreguetYear

Circa 2000

Reference No.

3470

Movement No.

6959

Case No.

1385

Material

Platinum

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 502, 38 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Breguet clasp

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 O€17,400-26,100

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) was considered oneof the leading watch makers of his day, and even in themodern era he is widely considered one of the greatest
horologists of all times. His technical skills and innovations
changed the world of horology with inventions such as the
tourbillon, used to counter the efects of gravity on the
movement, or the Montre à tact, a watch constructed withknobs to the outside of the case, so a discreet gentleman
could tell time without looking at his watch and appearing
impolite. The frm remained in the family’s control until

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the late 19th century when Breguet’s great-grandson
Louis Antoine (1851-1882) passed away. He hired English
watchmaker Edward Brown to manage the Paris factory
and upon Antoine’s death, Brown retained control of thefrm. Following Brown’s death in 1895, his sons continued
to lead the brand, however it changed hands again in the
1970s and 1980s, with the Swatch Group fnally acquiring it
in 1999. Over the last 100 years, Breguet has remained true
to the tenets of their founder, producing watches that not
only have a classic appeal, but are technical marvels.
The present platinum perpetual calendar equation of time
wristwatch is a superb modern timepiece featuring someof the most prestigious complications the brand specializes
in today. The dial, with its equation of time indication,
simultaneously displays both “true” solar time as defned
by nature and the “mean” solar time as recognized by man– refecting the true position of the sun versus mean timestandardized for civilians. An impressive mechanical microcomputer with exquisite fnishing throughout, the equationof time mechanism is linked to the perpetual calendar
complication, making the equation of time indication
accurate to the exact day. Preserved in excellent overall
condition, this reference 3470 is a highly complicatedwatch that exudes elegance, rooted to an earlier time thattoday many have forgotten - a period of state-of-the-art
mechanical technology from a non-computerized era.

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BREGUET
Ref. 3470 “Equation of Time”

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6. Eveningwear

58.
Patek Philippe – A possibly unique andimportant platinum minute repeating
wristwatch with blue soleil dial,certifcate of origin and presentation
box, factory double sealed

Patek Philippe’s reference 5078 is a stunning modern
masterpiece featuring one of the most complex anddesirable of all high complications – a minute repeater.
Launched in 2008, it is the brand’s 21st century
iteration of the striking wristwatch, and while it has acontemporary look and feel it’s frmly rooted in horology’s
traditional past. Initially ofered in platinum with a choiceof white enamel dial or black lacquered dial, or 18K pinkgold with white enamel dial, the reference is today
ofered by the brand only in 18K white gold.
Powered by a self-winding movement with microrotor, its caliber R 27 PS is comprised of 342 parts andmeasures a very slim 5.05 mm in thickness. Winding isaccomplished via a beautifully engraved micro-rotor,
visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, andsuperbly integrated into the movement to permit anunobstructed view of the repeater’s hammers and gongs.
This mechanical marvel is housed within a tastefully
sized 38 mm diameter case designed with so many of
the classic attributes found in Patek Philippe’s mostprestigious, complicated vintage watches such as awide concave bezel and futed and elongated lugs - both
reminiscent of the iconic reference 2499 perpetualcalendar chronograph. The now-discontinued platinum
and rose gold versions of the reference were ftted withdials featuring slender and elegant Roman numeral hourmarkers and feuille hands, noted with a -001 or a -010
extension to the reference number if enamel or black
lacquer, respectively.

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6. Eveningwear

58.

Patek Philippe – A possibly unique and important platinum minute repeating
wristwatch with blue soleil dial, certifcate of origin and presentation box,
factory double sealed

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2009

Reference No.

5078P-013

Movement No.

1’904’258

Case No.

4’493’547

Material

Platinum

CalibreAutomatic, cal. R 27 PS AIG 2

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$250,000-500,000 Σ€217,000-434,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated November 14th,
2009 and signed by the Patek Philippe salon, London, ftted
wooden Patek Philippe presentation box, box key, leather portfoliowith glossy photograph, product literature and outer packaging.
Further accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch striking on two gongs
and with blue sunburst dial in 2009 and its subsequent November
14th, 2009.

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The present watch is made extraordinary thanks to thespecial and possibly unique dial it was born with. Likely
custom-ordered by a very important client, it is the only
known version of this reference to feature a blue “soleil”
dial. Accordingly, it is designated on the certifcate oforigin as a reference 5078P-013 – the frst and only
known example of the reference to appear with this dialvariation. Although still in its factory seal, the brillianceand depth of the sunburst-grained dial can still be seen,
with a deep and powerful blue main dial that contrasts
elegantly with the slightly darker blue seconds chapter
at 6 o’clock. The hands, hour markers, and seconds andminutes graphics are painted in pure white – a superb
complement to the polished platinum case and adding
vibrancy to the blue dial.
Preserved in brand new condition still in its factory double
sealed box, the present watch comes complete withall of its paperwork including the certifcate of origin, aleather folio with portrait and model overview, second
caseback, and presentation box. The uniqueness of its
dial, its pristine state of preservation, and the presenceof all of its original accessories, make this one of the mostimportant examples of the reference to ever appear on
the market. A trophy watch for a collection of the world’s
fnest watches.

26/10/18 09:30

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5078P “Minute Repeater”

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

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6. Eveningwear

59.

Patek Philippe – A possibly unique, oversized, and extremely well-preserved
platinum and diamond-set wristwatch

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1950

Reference No.

1589

Movement No.

966’270

Case No.

302’848

Material

Platinum and diamonds

CalibreManual, cal. 12-120, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000 Σ€43,400-86,900
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch with diamond-set dial in 1950 andits subsequent sale on October 30th, 1950.

The present wristwatch is a remarkable fnd, being the frst
known platinum example of a reference 1589 to ever appear
on the market. Patek Philippe introduced the reference
1589 in 1944 when gentlemen’s dress watches weretypically manufactured with a 32-34mm diameter cases.
The reference featured an Antoine Gerlach-fabricated

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oversized case measuring 36mm in diameter, however it
had an even bigger look and feel thanks to its extended
attached lugs. Production was limited to approximately
eight years and made in two series, the frst with the caliber12-120 such as the present watch, followed by the caliber12-400. The Stern Frères dials were typically silvered orpink with Roman or square hour markers and outer pearled
minute dots, making this diamond-set dial extremely rare.
Research indicates Patek Philippe made the majority ineither yellow or pink gold, with approximately 43 known
examples to the market, and the present timepiece thefrst known in platinum. In exceptionally well-preserved
condition, this watch will delight all watch enthusiasts.
The platinum case and diamond-set hour markers havean elegant and luxurious appeal. The large size case wasavant-garde for the mid-20th century, but today feels
contemporary and modern. It is a wristwatch with a coolaesthetic that perfectly matches an evening out, or a casual
weekend in the country. Today, diamond-set watches areofen over the top, and it is a pleasure to fnd a vintage,
watch tastefully set with diamonds that is understatedwatch and perfectly suited to the 21st century. This a veryrare opportunity for collectors obtain a possibly uniquewatch whose rarity is matched by its exceptional condition.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Re. 1589 Platinum

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6. Eveningwear

60.

Cartier – A very fne and attractive oversized platinum rectangular-shaped
wristwatch accompanied with original guarantee

Manufacturer

CartierYear

Circa 1998

Reference No.

1734

Case No.

GC11732

Model Name

Tank Americaine

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, cal. 430 MC, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Cartier buckle

Dimensions

45mm x 26.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$6,000-8,000 Σ O€5,200-6,900
Accessories
With Cartier International Warranty dated July 15, 1998
and signed Concessionnaire Agrée, Modena, 2013 CartierInternational Service invoice, red leather Cartier folder andproduct literature

Cartier has always been associated with exquisite
crafsmanship and elegant designs that have for a
century attracted royalty, movie stars, sports celebrities
and everyday clientele. Their jewelry and timepieces
became recognizable in the market, and one of the most

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innovative wristwatches was the “Tank”. Introduced in
1917, the design took its inspiration from the top view ofthe very frst Renault military tank vehicle deployed thatsame year. Today, it has become an icon in haute horlogerie
for its classic design and wearability. Over the ensuing 100
years, the basic foundation of the watch has remained thesame, but with changing fashions and styles, so too did theTank watch. In 1921, Cartier introduced the Tank Cintrée
a long slender wristwatch with gracefully arching casethat measured a dramatic 46mm long by 23mm wide. The
design broke the mold of the typical round watch. In 1989,
Cartier updated the elegance of the Cintrée with the releaseof the Tank Americaine, a modern wristwatch with stronger,
more masculine dimensions than the Cintrée. A milestone
in the evolution of the Tank, the Tank Americaine was thevery frst curved Tank watch from Cartier to be designedwith a water resistant case.
The present example is in excellent overall condition
with a crisp case and its original factory fnish. The white
guilloché dial displays Cartier’s traditional Roman numerals
and secret signature at the 7 o’clock. Accompanied byits original international guarantee certifcate, this is an
exciting opportunity for all collectors to own a noteworthy
variant of the famous Tank that has been worn by kings,
queens, and the Hollywood elite for decades.

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CARTIER
Tank Americaine

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7. Hamptons
How to make a stylish getaway

Clearly, your choice of clothes for your annual break is hugely
impacted by your destination – and during a short break in
The Hamptons or Martha’s Vineyard, preppy stripes and earthy
linens are de rigueur.
As is always the case when travelling any distance, items thatpack well – or to be more specifc, unpack well – always holda draw, hence stylish men’s ongoing gratitude to pioneers oftechnical fabrics such as Turnbull & Asser (whose creaseless‘Journey’ shirts were a huge hit in the summer). We have our
ovine friends to thank, meanwhile, for Merino wool, a fabricwhose ‘crimp’ — meaning the regularity of bends in a single
strand, which makes the cloth rubbery, spongy and absorbent– is such that it has excellent ‘bouncebackability’ when you
remove it from your case, meaning less need to use the hotel
shower as a makeshif steamer.
Perhaps the trickiest aspect of picking out clothes for a holiday
is the fact that you’re choosing diferent ensembles for eachdiferent segment of the day - casual breakfast-time ensembles;
looks for formal dining and for daytime sauntering; night-wear,
including a dressing gown for cold climates – all of which must ft
inside a relatively small container. This makes versatile clothing(non-patterned blazers in neutral earthy colours; organic-hued
shorts which go with an assortment of torso-wear; linen shirts
in a range of unobtrusive colours) a sage choice.
If you can pick out a range of garments which all, without
exception, go with everything else, you’ve nailed it.

Lots 61–70
The Hamptons is more than a luxury destination for thoseseeking to see and be seen, or city-dwellers looking to escape thefetid heat of the asphalt jungle. The area is full of history datingback to the pre-colonial era, and has been considered an artist’s
haven since Jackson Pollock set up his studio in East Hampton
during the 1940s. Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning, Robert
Motherwell, and Mark Rothko also spent time in the Hamptons,
and along with them came their benefactors, muses, andsupporters. Lavish lawn parties require quite separate apparelthan evening beach bonfres, and the watches of the Hamptons
are suitably diverse. A shimmering green-lacquered ‘Stella’dial Day-Date captures the sunlight during the day, while theglossy dials and gilt printing of a boldly, masculine oversized IWC
Portugieser or classic vintage Rolex Submariner are wonderfully
illuminated by an evening’s bonfre.

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26/10/18 09:32

Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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7. Hamptons

Mr Porter’s lookLot 68
Patek Philippe. Reference 2526 with enamel
dial, 18K yellow gold, circa 1955

For many, chunky patterned cardigans are as mucha Ralph Lauren staple as the famous polo: this rugged
shawl-collar example from RRL comes in thick wool
blended with silk and linen, and is emblazoned witha Western-inspired eagle intarsia.
Some simple but efective layering lies beneath, in theform of a grey tee from James Perse (a worthy brandfrom which to grab a stash of these handy garments),
made in Japan from lightweight cotton blended withhandle-sofening silk.
Parisian company Hartford provide the cotton-twill
drawstring shorts; the aptly paired leather boat shoes
and belt come from Los Angeles footwear brand Yuketen
and Parma outft Anderson’s respectively; recently
resuscitated London eyewear brand Kirk Originals(a bespoke outlet beloved of Mick Jagger, Oasis and Paul
Weller) can be credited with those ‘Harvey’ tortoiseshellacetate sunglasses, which are based on those worn by
Cary Grant in North by Northwest.

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Cardigan by RRL
T-shirt by James Perse
Shorts by Hartford
Shoes by Yuketen
Sunglasses by Kirk Originals

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The Rake’s lookLot 64
Audemars Piguet. Royal Oak Ofshore Perpetual
Calendar Chronograph, titanium, circa 2007

As mentioned in the Summertime section, unstructured
tailoring was originally invented by Neapolitan tailoring
masters to cater for those wanting to be both dapper
and comfortable in balmier climes without compromise:
and what works on the Gulf of Naples works just as wellacross The Pond in America’s most fashionable minibreak destinations.
Enter, stage lef, this navy, unlined jacket (note the front
patch pockets – another classic Neapolitan trait), crafed
from wrinkle-free virgin wool, with a 3-roll-2 closure andunobtrusive notch lapels. Rubinacci are the style gurusbehind it, and can also take credit for the beige wool
trousers (note the curtained, split waistband, detail bufs).
So far so cautiously tasteful: but a whif of sartorial
derring-do is added by a Fumagalli tie with beige-andgrey diagonal stripes (seasoned style connoisseurs willappreciate the fve- fold construction and hand-rollededges) and Manebi Suede Espadrilles. Product name?
‘Hamptons’, aptly enough.

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Jacket by Rubinacci
Shirt by Marol
Tie by Fumagalli 1891
Espadrilles by Manei

29/10/18 18:18

7. Hamptons

61.

Rolex – A rare and very attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with green
lacquer “Stella” dial

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1977

Reference No.

1803

Movement No.

DD258’491

Case No.

5’056’042

Model Name

Day-Date, “Stella”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1556, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold-plated Rolex buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, buckle signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000€10,400-15,600

Since its inception in 1956, the Day-Date has been
associated with luxury, privilege, and success. It has
adorned the wrists of presidents and dignitaries, beenworn in board rooms and galas around the world, always
faithfully serving the men and women who chose to wear
it. The Day-Date is still in production today, and many
vintage varieties have acquired their own collecting
categories, including those ftted with so-called “Stella”
dials, a gleaming and colorful lacquered dial style
produced by Rolex in the 1970s and 1980s.
Today, scholars infer that its name derives from thedazzling multi-layered lacquer coating, which displays
vibrant and rich colors that glimmer like stars, hence
the name “Stella”. While the horological community
hypothesizes that the model was originally intended
for import to the Middle Eastern market, “Stella” dials
have gained international recognition due to their many
vividly colored iterations and delicate appearance.
This green “Stella” Day-Date is preserved in remarkablecondition. The dial is pristine, and the lacquer exhibits
an exquisitely rich leafy green tone. The luminous hourmarkers have aged evenly with the hands taking on awarm yellow patina, and each luminous dot is perfectly
preserved. Most impressive are the edges around the
day and date apertures, as the lacquer is smoothly
and precisely applied, attesting to Rolex’s stringent
standards in quality.

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ROLEX
Ref. 1803 Day-Date “Green Stella”

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7. Hamptons

62.

Omega – A very fne and rare yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1948

Reference No.

OT 2398

Movement No.

10’763’008

Case No.

10’723’497

Model Name

Fantasy

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 30.01 RA PC, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Modern 18K yellow gold-plated Omega buckle

Dimensions

34mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 Σ€26,100-43,400
Accessories
With Omega Extract from the Archives confrming productionof the present watch with cloisonné enamel dial in 1948 and its
subsequent sale on March 31, 1948 and delivered to Switzerland.
Literature
A similar example with “Fantasy” cloisonné dial is illustrated in John
Goldberger’s Omega Watches, p. 194.

Renowned for the iconic Speedmaster, the frst watch
worn on the lunar surface in 1969, Omega has a storied
history in horology, and the present timepiece withcloisonné enamel dial is part of a rare and small series of

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watches produced between 1946 and 1956 refecting theircommitment to workmanship and tradition. With the endof World War II, Omega ofered these luxurious watchesfeaturing extraordinary cloisonné dials with motifs suchas landscapes, mythical creatures, maps of the world
and like the present “Fantasy” watch, with stylized foral
designs. This abstract pattern is so rooted in their history,
Omega chose to recreate it in 1994 when they released alimited edition timepiece (100 pieces) with cloisonné dial tocommemorate their 100th anniversary.
These rare watches combine form and function with beauty– a robust self-winding movement and the dial a veritable
work of art with vibrant colors and ornate worksmanship.
Cloisonné enameling is an ancient technique usedthroughout history to decorate jewelry, religious objects,
and vessels. The intricate work begins with the enameller
laying out the design with fne gold wire, then adding
successive layers of enamel to each region within the wire
design to achieve the desired color, then fred in a kiln.
The present example from the grandson of the original
owner is in lovely original condition and remains unpolished.
The case is well preserved, showing signs of careful wear
and retaining strong proportions and its original factoryfnish. In the post war era when so many brands developed
utilitarian tool watches, the Omega Fantasy is a rare gem
and beautiful timepiece that many will seek out, but few will
ultimately own.

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OMEGA“Floral Cloisonné”

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7. Hamptons

63.

IWC – A historically important, very rare, and remarkably crisp oversized
wristwatch with lacquered black gilt dial and luminous indexes

Manufacturer

IWC

Year

1942

Reference No.

325

Movement No.

931’986

Case No.

1’072’461

Model Name

Portugieser

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 74, 19 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000 O€69,500-104,000

The rarity and historical signifcance of the present lot
should be enough to capture the heart of any collector, butthese elements are further enhanced by this Portugieser’s
exceptional case condition and beautiful glossy gilt dial
with luminous Arabic indexes. The dial boasts a vivid black
lacquered surface – completely original – with perfectly
intact luminous hour markers and stunning silver gilt
printing. The case is sharp with its punçao hallmark strikingly
crisp and deep. Phillips is proud to ofer this remarkable
example for the frst time at public auction, without a doubt
one of the fnest and most important Portugiesers to everappear on the market.
Phillips wishes to sincerely thank Dr. David Seyfer, IWC
Museum Curator, for his invaluable assistance in researching
the present lot.

The origins of the IWC Portugieser are shrouded in myth, but
it is widely agreed by scholars that in 1939, Portuguese watch
importers – a Mr. Rodrigues and a Mr. Teixeira – made a special
request of IWC: to create an oversized wristwatch with a highly
accurate movement. IWC took up the challenge, utilizing frst
their pocket watch caliber 74, a manually wound savonette
movement with subsidiary seconds and a 54-hour power
reserve and 42mm case diameter.
The frst reference 325s, now dubbed the “Portugieser”
were shipped to Lisbon in 1942 to Mr. Rodrigues. Indeed,
the present lot was one of these frst Portugiesers fulflling
Rodrigues’ request of three years earlier, having been
shipped to Lisbon on June 17th, 1942 and confrmed by the
manufacture as being a part of the very frst shipment.
Further evidence is provided by a small but crisp armadillo
hallmark on the lower right lug – the Portuguese import markfor non-precious metals. Each hallmark was applied by hand
– this is typically called a punçao – when the watch passed
through the Portuguese Assay ofce, and accounts for somevariation in the location where the punçao has been placed.
According to IWC, only 304 examples of the reference 325
were produced with the caliber 74, with 690 examples in total
produced between 1939 and 1981. Over these 42 years, only
141 actual Portugiesers were imported to Portugal. Though
prized by collectors today because of their rarity, size, andhistory, the reference 325 did not enjoy acclaim during its
actual production.
It is integral to the DNA of the IWC brand and retains atimeless aesthetic since its introduction in 1942, thanks to the
curious inquiry of Señors Rodrigues and Teixiera. The stylehas been reinterpreted, the movement improved upon, andcomplications added and subtracted, but the overall physicalprofle – a slim and oversized men’s wristwatch with short,broad lugs – has remained the same.

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IWC
Ref. 325 Portugieser

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7. Hamptons

64.

Patek Philippe – A highly attractive and very rare yellow gold wristwatch withenamel dial, retailed by Gübelin

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1955

Reference No.

2526

Movement No.

762’141

Case No.

687’827

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 12-600AT, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial and movement signed

Estimate$20,000-40,000€17,400-34,700
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch in 1955 and its subsequentsale on March 20th, 1956.

Patek Philippe’s reference 2526 is a paragon of
mid-20th century modern design aesthetic. The
brand’s frst self-winding wristwatch, it is a legend in
the horological world for both its innovative caliber
12-600AT and classic masculine design, with sensual
enamel dial. Introduced in 1953, it has a timeless qualitythat renders it as relevant today as it was 66 years ago.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 182

The 35.5mm diameter Baumgartner fabricated case wasoversized for the era, but due to its thick proportions,still perfectly suits contemporary tastes even whenmany enthusiasts consider a 40mm diameter watch thestandard. The automatic, in-house caliber, produced
from 1953 until approximately 1960, is a work of art withthe handcrafed 18k gold guilloché bi-directional rotor
crested with the PP signature. It is considered by many
to be amongst the fnest automatic movements ever
made, featuring highest grade fnishing, and efcientbi-directional winding system allowing for the watch toachieve full power reserve in a relatively short period oftime. Over the caliber 12-600’s seven year production
period, 7100 movements were made and were featured
not only in the reference 2526, but also in references asdiverse as the 2540 to the 3425.
The present example is exceptionally well-preserved anda fresh-to-the-market ofering, coming from the original
family. The frst series’ of-white enamel dial features
the recognizable fared enamel surrounding the top andbottom of each hour marker, as well as around the centersof the hour, minute, and seconds hands. In original,
unrestored condition and featuring the prestigious Swiss
retailer Gübelin’s signature at 6 o’clock, it is a premium
example of a reference 2526 featuring so many of thequalities that attract connoisseurs today. Its original stateof preservation, easy wearability, and iconic design makethis an exceptional wristwatch for any collector.

26/10/18 09:35

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2526 “Enamel Dial”

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7. Hamptons

65.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and oversized white gold chronographwristwatch with certifcate of origin, paperwork, and box, single sealed

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2005

Reference No.

5070

Movement No.

3’362’522

Case No.

4’292’795

Material

18K white gold

CalibreManual, cal. 27-70 CHR, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$50,000-80,000 Σ€43,400-69,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe ftted box, Certifcate of Origin,
leather folder and product literature. Further accompanied by Patek
Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming production of thistimepiece in 2005 and its subsequent sale on August 10th, 2005.

Whereas perpetual calendar chronographs have continuously
graced Patek Philippe catalogues since the launch of thereference 1518 in 1941, the frm stopped producing simple
chronographs in the late 1960s, afer the discontinuation of
the reference 1463.
This is why the collecting community was extremely excitedwhen Patek Philippe introduced a new chronographonly reference in 1998 in yellow gold (see lot 88) and thesubsequent launch of the white gold version, like the present
model, in 2001.
Directly inspired by the case and dial design of the unique
Patek Philippe split-seconds chronograph reference 2512
from 1950, the reference 5070 enjoys a unique spot in
Patek Philippe’s history as one of the largest watches it had
produced. It was the last chronograph to use the lauded
Lemania 2310 ébauche before Patek Philippe switched to an
in-house caliber with the introduction of the reference 5170.
The white gold reference 5070 pays homage to the legibilityof its inspiration, the 2512, with a unique take - blackened
white gold Arabic numerals and hands. Also used on the whitegold reference 5970, it is a bold contrast to the silvered dialand sublime lustre of the white gold case, perfectly enhancing
the stepped case and black tachymeter scale.
The present reference 5070 is a rare fnd – a brand new
example still in its original factory seal together with its
original hangtag. It is furthermore accompanied by its
Certifcate of Origin, product literature, and original box.

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5070G

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7. Hamptons

66.

Rolex – A fne and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “four-line” black
gloss dial and bracelet, with presentation box, brochure, and hang tags

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1964

Reference No.

5512, inside case back stamped 5513, III.64

Movement No.

47’188

Case No.

1’178’502

Model Name

Submariner, “4 Liner”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Later stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet,
stamped 78360, end links stamped 558, max
length 205mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped VC

Dimensions

39.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000€13,000-21,700
Accessories
With original Rolex green leather presentation box, Rolex anchor,
Rolex hang tag and product literature.
Literature
For a similar example of reference 5512 with black gloss dial, pleasesee 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 186.

Rolex’s Submariner wristwatch has long been one of thebrand’s most successful models, with production running
continuously since being ofcially launched at Basel in 1954.
Along with the dual time GMT-Master, it is a model that has
been studied, researched, and meticulously documented overthe last two decades, and has a long lineage of predecessors

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 186

forming a unique timeline that not only illustrates the historyof the timepiece, but the history of the brand and its design
development. The frst three Submariner models released
were the 6204 and 6205, both water resistant to 100 meters,
along with the reference 6200, a professional diver’s watch
rated for dives to 200 meters. These early models featured
pared down dials with little dial text other than “Rolex Oyster
Perpetual”, and were sometimes ftted with pencil-shaped
hands, a long ‘Mercedes’ hour hand, lollipop seconds hand,and for the ref. 6200 and its successors, the ref. 6538 and
5510, a “Big Crown” for easy winding and setting. Within a few
short years, the model had gone under several modifcations
and by 1959, Rolex released the references 5512 and 5513,
which were the frst models to feature the now ubiquitouscrown guards.
The present “4-liner” reference 5512 features its stunningand original “Swiss T<25” black glossy dial with gilt signatureand silver gilt “Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed”(SCOC) designation at 6 o’clock. While both the reference
5512 and 5513 featured the same case and bracelet, thereference 5512 had a movement that had been tested andcertifed for accuracy and precision by the Contrôle Ofciel
Suisse des Chronomètres, and it is this additional two lines
added to the dial that sets the reference 5512 from its
contemporary counterpart, the reference 5513. Ofered inlovely condition with a well preserved case, and vibrant,
glossy dial with nicely matching hands and hour markers. It
is a classic icon that has stood the test of time and continues
to do so today. Ofered with its original box, gilt anchor, hangtag, and brochure, it’s a lovely collectors’ example that is
ideally suited for both casual and formal wear.

26/10/18 09:36

ROLEX
Ref. 5512 Submariner “4-Liner”

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7. Hamptons

67.

Rolex – A very rare, attractive and exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel
chronograph wristwatch with black “Paul Newman” dial, tachymeter bezel,
and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1967

Reference No.

6239, inside case back further stamped 6239

Case No.

1’626’433

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 722-1, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet,
stamped 7205, end links stamped 71, max
length 185mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp

Dimensions

36.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$120,000-180,000€104,000-156,000

Playing an important role in Rolex history, the reference
6239 introduced in 1963 was the very frst Cosmograph
Daytona model in Rolex’s collection. The red “Daytona” text
was not displayed on the earliest models as Rolex initiallymarketed the reference as the “Le Mans” before settling on“Daytona,” which would start appearing on the dials shortly
afer the change. Available in stainless steel, 14K, and 18K
gold, the 6239 was the frst chronograph by the historic
manufacture to feature the tachymeter scale outside thedial, incorporated instead on the bezel.
Today, the 6239 with the “Paul Newman” exotic dialconfguration is amongst the most sought afer of allcollectors’ watches, appreciated by collectors for its rarity,
enduring aesthetics, and celebrated history. Becoming
increasingly rare is a fresh-to-market “Paul Newman”
Daytona presented in hardly worn, original condition fromthe original owner, such as the one ofered here.
The present watch is a stunning example, maintaining its
lovely original “Paul Newman” exotic dial in virtually fawlesscondition housed in a likely unpolished case showing hardly
any signs of wear. The black grèné dial with white subsidiary
dials, coupled with the bright red of the “Daytona” text at
6 o’clock, form a strikingly beautiful aesthetic. The outerred 1/5th seconds track and Art Deco style font displayed in
the subsidiary dials, with well-preserved concentric circles,
further enhance the depth of this watch’s beauty. The
perfectly preserved luminous plots have begun to take ona pleasing and consistent warm yellow hue. This one-owner“Paul Newman” Daytona is certain to delight the mostdiscerning collector.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona“Paul Newman”

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7. Hamptons

68.

Audemars Piguet – A fne and rare titanium perpetual calendar chronographwristwatch with moon phase, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Audemars Piguet

Year

2007

Reference No.

25854.TI.00.1150TI

Movement No.

561’118

Case No.

F02912Model NameRoyal Oak Ofshore

Material

Titanium, rubber, stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 2226/2839

Bracelet/Strap

Titanium Audemars Piguet link bracelet, max
overall length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Audemars Piguet double
deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 O€17,400-26,100
Accessories
With Audemars Piguet warranty dated January 17, 2008, signedby the Audemars Piguet Boutique New York, wooden battery
operated winding presentation box, product literature and outer
packaging.

In response the quartz crisis of the late 1960s andearly 1970s, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak
wristwatch in 1972 as the world’s frst stainless steel luxury
sports watch with fully integrated bracelet. Designed
by famed horologer Gerald Genta, it was a model thatrevolutionized luxury watches with a monobloc casefeaturing an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_120-195.indd 190

white gold screws. The watch had a distinctly nauticalfeel, and with the introduction in 1993 of the RoyalOak Ofshore, Audemars Piguet sought to update theiconic Royal Oak with a sporty and even more masculine
aesthetic. Stephen Urquhart, then managing directorof AP, asked designer Emmanuel Gueit to update themodel with a larger version in hopes of attracting ayounger, more recreational buyer. Gueit retained theRoyal Oak classic design, but the original’s 39mm casediameter was enlarged to a 42mm diameter case, which
when released, was referred to as the “Beast”. The
new Ofshore featured a chronograph and calendar
mechanism, along with a prominent rubber gasket
sandwiched between the bezel and case, and therban – atype of rubber - coated chronograph pushers and screw
down crown. These elements enhanced the nauticaltheme of the Royal Oak model and over the ensuing
years it has ofen been associated with sailing events.
The present watch, featuring a prestigious perpetualcalendar and moon phase indication in addition to achronograph function, remains in excellent, unpolishedcondition and is ofered complete with presentation box
and its original guarantee. The grey “petite tapisserie”
dial with original luminous hour markers and hands isthe essence of the Ofshore and makes a wonderful
addition to any collection of sports watches. It has adirect historical link back to the original Royal Oak, andis a watch that can be comfortably worn both day andnight, at the ofce or sailing in the Mediterranean during
the summertime.

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AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Ofshore

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7. Hamptons

69.

Patek Philippe – An extremely fne and very rare yellow gold perpetual calendar
wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phase and leap year, with hand engraved“ofcer”-style case, accompanied with certifcate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

Circa 2011

Reference No.

5160J

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 324QR, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant

continues to employ skilled artisans keeping the
tradition alive. The reference 5160 is a modern
perpetual calendar wristwatch steeped in the frm’s
past. The “Ofcier”-style case is reminiscent of watchesfrom the early 20th century with its hinged case back,and the engraved arabesque motif is artful and similar
to Belle Époque motifs of the late 19th century.

buckleDimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$75,000-150,000 Σ€65,100-130,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated March 4, 2011 andsigned by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, battery operated
automatic wooden ftted presentation box, leather envelop,
product literature and outer packaging.

Throughout its long and prestigious history, Patek
Philippe has been associated with quality workmanshipand innovative movements. Their early pocket watches
were ofen engraved with intricate designs adding
elegance and grace, occupying the highest echelons interms of quality. While the crafsman capable of such
intricate work are slowly disappearing, Patek Philippe

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Fresh to the market from the original owner andcomplete with certifcate of origin and presentation
winding box, this reference 5160 is in pristine condition
and appears to have been worn only a handful oftimes. The successor to the reference 5159, the present
watch stands out for its exquisitely hand engravedcase adorning all visible, exterior surfaces. The dialfeatures an engraved center matching the abstract
foral design of the case engraving and is highlighted
by the retrograde date sector, while the classic Roman
numerals provide a classic look. Released in 2010 andproduced in yellow, pink and white gold, it is believedthat only a few dozen of each metal will be made. Now
discontinued in yellow gold, today only the white goldmodel is still available from the brand. This watch is atrue heritage timepiece, with its superbly engravedcase and retrograde perpetual calendar complication,
it is an homage to both artistic crafsmanship andmodern horology.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5160J

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7. Hamptons

70.

Tornek-Rayville – A very fne and extremely rare stainless steel anti-magnetic
diver’s wristwatch made for the United States Navy

Manufacturer

Tornek-RayvilleYear

Circa 1966

Reference No.

TR-900Case No.

0922

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. AS 1361, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Nylon

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

41mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000€43,400-86,900

watches, specifcally the Fify Fathoms Mil-Spec, which
they had already tested and approved for use by the Navy
Experimental Diving Unit in 1958. Allen V. Tornek, of the
Allen V. Tornek Co., based in midtown New York City, wasan importer of Blancpain and won a bid to be the American
supplier of Blancpain for the U.S. Navy. The second name“Rayville” was the ofcial name of Blancpain, adopted in 1932afer the death of the last member of the Blancpain family
to run the company, Frédéric-Emile Blancpain, forced a legalname change.

The Tornek-Rayville TR-900 is a watch ordered during thedevelopment and refnement of combat diver programsin the world’s armed forces, the dark presence of a Cold
War between post-World War II military superpowers, andproxy conficts in Southeast Asia and the Middle East. Thesewatches needed to suit the needs of soldiers being sent tothose faraway places, and withstand the rigors of military
combat.

The Navy Experimental Diving Unit used elements fromthree watches tested: the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain
Fify Fathoms, and the Enicar Seapearl 600 to create thespecifcations for the TR-900. The ofcial report detailingthe fndings of the Navy Experimental Diving Unit regardingthese watches notes the need for a dull case like theBlancpain, rather than a shiny case such as the Enicar andthe Rolex which “should not be used in tropical waters
where biting fsh abide.” The hacking mechanism, humidity
indicator, luminous bezel and dial, and most importantly,
an easily adjustable rotating bezel, made the Blancpain theideal choice.

Today, the TR-900, made for the United States Navy, is oneof the rarest and most sought afer military watches forcollectors. Delivered in two batches, one in late 1964 and theother in mid-1966, a total of about 1,000 watches conforming
to U.S. military specifcation MIL-W-22176A were provided by
Blancpain through their American subsidiary Tornek-Rayville.
Due to the 1933 “Buy American Act” that remained in force,
the U.S. Navy could not directly purchase Swiss Blancpain

According to scholarship, most of these TR-900s weredestroyed by the United States government; however, a few
escaped destruction and it is believed somewhere between
30 and 50 examples survived. To fnd one is rare, but to fnd
one in exceptionally preserved condition, such as the present
lot, is even rarer. Making a seldom-seen appearance on the
public market, this Tornek-Rayville will delight discerning
collectors of military watches.

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TORNEK-RAYVILLE
TR-900 “United States Navy”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering
Because a good look is always timely“A gentleman's choice of timepiece says as much about him as
does his Savile Row suit,” according to James Bond author Ian
Fleming – himself a proud wearer of a Rolex Explorer (Reference1016). It’s unsurprising, then, that perhaps the most dapper
fctional protagonist ever created wears a series of Submariners,
Breitling Top Times, TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dives andOmega Seamasters (and much more horological splendour
besides) in the movie adaptations of Fleming’s work.
As anyone who’s attended the social events surrounding theBaselworld and SIHH watch fairs – or even a collectors’ event
or auction such as this - knows, though, the late author’s axiom
works both ways. The relationship between timepiece andattire is reciprocal, and the type of people who relish the coaxial
escapements of George Daniels and intricate geometry etchedpainstakingly onto a bezel in a century past are likely, too, to be
aesthetically attuned to the fner nuances of fashion.
At these occasions, dress-codes tend to be unwritten andunofcial, making fanciful, free- wheeling approaches notjust permissible but inevitable. Here lies an opportunity to dig
out those items that may not get an airing at the ofce, theracecourse or even the gentlemen’s club: shirts in traditionallyinformal materials; tastefully adorned loafers; the kind of pocket
squares that’d make many a Monte Carlo doorman blench; theheadwear that best captures the essence of you at your ease.
This is an evening during which external rules are batteringrammed out the way, and in their place one’s internal style
inclinations come to the fore. Gentlemen, choose your weapons.

Lots 71 to 81
Though a fashionable ensemble is certainly not out of place at awatch gathering, sartorial choices are always overshadowed byhorological ones. In fact, it’s not uncommon to buck the single
watch on the wrist norm for double – or even triple – wristing,sleeves pushed up to reveal a collector’s prized possessions.
Reference numbers are traded fast and furious, and wrists
scrutinized to an unforeseen level in search of the details
that mark the ultimate versions of rare collectors’ watch. The
gatherings themselves take on as many diferent guises as thecollectors who frequent them – well-catered brand dinners,
raucous gatherings in sports bars, or over cappuccinos in a quiet
cofee shop. The point isn’t to wear your best watch or your mostexpensive watch, but your most special watch. Collectors gather
to wow each other with the ultra-rare, the unique, the crownjewels of their collection. Whether you turn over your Explorer II
to reveal a minutely-etched retailer inventory number indicating
it was once sold by the foremost Argentinian watch retailer
Ricciardi, or a passing iPhone fashlight reveals four lines of giltprinted text on a ‘Big Crown’ Submariner, it’s the subtle nuancesthat count the most.

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

Mr Porter’s lookLot 72
Vacheron Constantin. Cornes de Vache Limited
Edition for HODINKEE, stainless steel, circa 2017

An ensemble blissfully devoid of ties, lapels, classic shoe
shapes or any other of the accoutrements we still consider
imperative to looking ‘respectable’, this get-up yells: “Thisis evening-time, which means down-time, however much
networking I’m doing.” The eye is drawn straight to the
Shetland virgin wool sweater in mustard by Prada, a piece- made all the more fattering by its ribbed trims - whichbegs to be shrouded by a dark waist-length jacket (a mantle
taken on here by this classically styled blue garment insupple navy suede by Berluti - the illustrious French housealso being behind the brown leather tote bag).
Mr P. – a range created by the MR PORTER team – can bethanked for the ‘Jacques’ suede boots and dazzling whitejeans, while a horizontal striped t-shirt from Sunspel (thecompany that introduce boxer shorts to the UK, trivia bufs)
may see light of day, depending on temperatures.

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Jacket by Berluti
Sweater by SALLE PRIVÉE
Shirt by Caruso
Scarf by Emma Willis
Jeans by Ralph Lauren Purple Label
Boots by Loro Piana
Pouch by Berluti

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The Rake’s lookLot 74
Rolex. ‘Padellone’ reference 8171, 18K yellow
gold, circa 1951

A watch fair gala dinner is a paradoxical afair: inherently
relaxed, blissfully informal, but likely to be packed withattendees who will likely be both personal friends andprofessional peers - hence, a strong impetus to impress. The
old adage goes that to do this, the safest bet is to go British,
which explains this look. The two stalwart tailoring houses,that of Huntsman, with their cream Prince of Wales checkjacket and Edward Sexton’s linen Hollywood top trouser isa poetic combination, they are guarantors of sophisticated,
intelligent styling. With the Samurai-themed pocket squarefrom Rubinacci bringing Italian playfulness.
Cream and pink being the soy and garlic of smart casualfor the sartorially literate, the Turnbull & Asser cotton shirt
shown here complements the jacket beautifully, while
the Khaki fedora from Lock & Co and the penny loafers inchocolate brown suede from Cheaney ensure that studied
insouciance reigns from head to toe. The hip fask - optional,
naturally - may help the sprezzatura glow from within...

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Jacket by Hunstman
Shirt by Emma Willis
Pocket square by Rubinacci
Hat by Lock & Co
Trousers by Edward Sexton
Socks by The London Sock Company
Loafers by Cheaney

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

71.

IWC – A very rare and historically interesting ceramic and stainless steel
chronograph wristwatch with day and date - property from the family of
Günter Blümlein

Manufacturer

IWC

Year

2001

Reference No.

3705

Case No.

2’601’769

Model Name

Der FliegerchronographMaterial

Ceramic and titanium

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 7902, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather custom-made IWC strap

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel IWC deployant clasp

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$6,000-8,000 Σ€5,200-6,900
Accessories
Accompanied with a service dial, additional date ring and calendar
ring in Italian, additional hour, minute and chronograph hands andadditional black leather IWC strap with stainless steel IWC buckle.
Further delivered with a IWC Certifcate confrming productionof the ceramic chronograph reference 3705 and its delivery
November 13, 2001.

Günter Blümlein (1943-2001) was a modern watchmakerthat helped form the the 21st century horological landscapeas we know it. It has been said that without his stewardship,some of the industry’s favorite brands may not havebeen viable entities today. From an early age, he was anaccomplished student of engineering and apprenticed
with Diehl, a manufacturer of armaments, calculators

Image courtesy of IWC

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and clocks. Following the apprenticeship, he was awarded acompany scholarship to study mechanical engineering with aconcentration in precision mechanics. He graduated in 1968
and was known not only for his technical skills but also, as an
excellent marketer, manager and communicator. Blümlein
entered the horological world at the precise moment thequartz crisis was wreaking havoc on brands - many having
gone bankrupt, having been unable to compete with thesehighly accurate, low-cost movements.
In an efort to challenge this new revolution, the VDO Adolf
Schindling group head, Albert Keck, sought to put two
Swiss brands and one Parisian brand under one entity, andwhile the acquisition of the Parisian frm never occurred,
the group brought IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange &Söhne together under one management team. The namewas later changed to Les Manufactures Horlogoères, andin 1982 Blümlein was appointed managing director. Under
his direction each brand was transformed, and today
they are known for some of the most complicated andintriguing timepieces available. At IWC, Blümlein brought
the IWC Grande Complication to market as well as working
with Porsche to create titanium chronographs, and in agroundbreaking frst, introduced the use of ceramic for awatch case, as seen on this ceramic Der Fliegerchronograph or
Pilot’s chronograph reference 3705.
The present reference 3705 with custom made leather strap
was purchased by Günter Blümlein himself. Presented asa gif for his wife, it was worn by her and is presented here
for the very frst time. The pilot’s chronograph is a rare
modern classic that was introduced in 1994 and remained in
production only until 1998. This pilot’s chronograph reference
3705 is a very rare modern classic introduced in 1994 andremained in production only until 1998. According to research
performed by Phillips and IWC, only 999 ceramic examples
were made, with a larger production number for the reference
3706, the stainless steel model. The reference 3705 has amasculine and sexy appeal with its dark ceramic case – a fullycompressed, molded ceramic not just a surface coating. The
present example is in excellent overall condition with sharpcase and clean original dial with luminous hour markers thathave aged beautifully to a warm yellow hue. As would be
expected of a watch from Schafhausen, the calendar is in
German, and the watch is accompanied with a new factory
replacement dial and Italian calendar ring. Collectors today
are looking for rare timepieces with exciting stories to tell, andthis Pilot’s Chronograph ticks all the boxes: not only is it a veryrare model, but also a noteworthy timepiece with a direct link
to one of the greatest horologists of the modern era.
Phillips wishes to sincerely thank Dr. David Seyfer, IWC
Museum Curator, for his invaluable assistance in researching
the present lot.

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IWC
Ref. 3705 Der Fliegerchronograph

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

72.

Vacheron Constantin – A very fne and rare stainless steel limited edition
chronograph wristwatch with pulsations dial and unusual lugs, accompaniedwith original guarantee, additional straps, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Vacheron Constantin

Year

2017

Reference No.

5000H

Movement No.

5’381’845

Case No.

1’368’615

Model NameHistoriques Cornes de Vache 1955

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 1142, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

38.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed. Caseback
additionally engraved ‘Limited Edition of 36 for
HODINKEE’.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 Σ€17,400-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by original Vacheron Constantin guarantee, two
additional custom calfskin leather straps supplied by HODINKEE, USB
key, Vacheron Constantin passport, and original Vacheron Constantin
presentation box.

Initially introduced in 2015, and ofered only in platinum, theCornes de Vache from Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques
collection is based on the iconic reference 6087, manufactured
in 1955. The moniker ‘Cornes de Vache’, meaning ‘bull’s horns’
refects the famboyant and powerfully curved lugs, present
on both the vintage and this modern iteration. Twenty-eight
examples in yellow gold are known to exist of the originalreference 6087, the only vintage Vacheron Constantin with a

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screw-down case back and circular chronograph pushers.
It was only in production for about a decade, and the lastchronograph to be manufactured by Vacheron until 1989.
On February 7th, 2017, online watch publication
HODINKEE released the fourth of their limited edition
collaborations, this stainless steel Historiques Cornes
de Vache 1955. Though it was already available inplatinum and 18k rose gold, the stainless steel version,
with pulsometer scale and ‘anthracite grey opaline’ dial,
released by HODINKEE in only 36 examples, thrilledcollectors all over the world. It built not only on theaesthetic foundation of the original reference 6087,
but incorporated modern improvements introducedwith the platinum Cornes de Vache in 2015, such as the
updated manually-wound chronograph caliber 1142 andan increase in size from the original’s 35mm diameter to
38.5mm diameter.
The 36 Cornes de Vaches Historiques 1955 for HODINKEE
sold out in less than thirty minutes. So successful was themodel that immediately following its announcement, thewait list reached 130 names.
Three elements make the HODINKEE limited edition
so prized among collectors: a case metal choice ofstainless steel, a pulsometer scale designed for medical
professionals replacing the tachymeter scale used for the
regular production model, and the gorgeous anthracite
opaline dial that changes color with the slightest lighting
alteration. Much like the original reference 6087, theornate architecture of the case complements thesimplicity of the two-register layout perfectly, creating anelegant and classic profle.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

73.

Patek Philippe – An important, very fne and attractive oversized stainless steel
wristwatch with date, power reserve, and bracelet, with certifcate of origin andproduct literature – the frst example of the reference ever produced

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1998

Reference No.

3710/1A-001

Movement No.

3’148’000

Case No.

4’050’626

Model Name

Nautilus

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 330 SC IZR, 30 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel integrated Patek Philippe
Nautilus bracelet, max length 180mm

Clasp/Buckle

Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming
sale at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva on March 2nd, 1999
product literature, leather travel case, and two extra bracelet
links. Further with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1998 and its
subsequent sale on March 2nd, 1999.
LiteratureThis same watch, matching serial and movement numbers, isfeatured in John Goldberger’s Patek Philippe Steel Watches,
pp. 380-381, indicating that this reference 3710/1A was the frst
ever produced by Patek Philippe.

Stainless steel Patek Philippe concealed
deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000€34,700-69,500

Perhaps one of the most iconic wristwatch designs of the 20th
century, the Nautilus has gracefully matured in terms of its
desirability and evolution since it was frst introduced in 1976.
The frst reference produced, the 3700, would only plant theseed for Patek Phillipe to develop and innovate their Nautilus
design into a full-on collection. Through the 1980s and early
1990s, Patek Philippe experimented with case materials, sizes,
and dial designs, but all were still simple time-only watches
only additionally indicating the date. All would change with
the introduction of the Nautilus reference 3710 in 1999, whichfeatured an innovative power reserve indicator below the 12
o’clock hour marker. Although in 1996 Patek re-worked thedial to have Roman numerals instead of polished luminous
indexes, the 3710 marks the frst real advance into making
the Nautilus a well-rounded collection like the Calatrava – andit would also re-introduce the “Jumbo” 42mm case diameter
prized by collectors.
Featuring polished white gold Roman numerals as hourmarkers, flled with luminous material, a matte black dial
without the characteristic ribbing found on earlier models,and a delicate and somewhat abstract power reserve, thereference 3710 otherwise subscribes to the design cues of theoriginal reference 3700.
The present Nautilus is an exciting and exceptional exampleof the reference 3710 that Phillips is proud to ofer at auction
for the frst time. With movement serial number 3’148’000, itis the frst example of the reference manufactured by Patek
Philippe, and is featured prominently in John Goldberger’s
landmark book, Patek Philippe Steel Watches. Sold in Marchof 1999 through Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon, it has beenpreserved in excellent original condition and is furthermore
accompanied with its original certifcate of origin andaccompanying paperwork.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
3710A “First One Made”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

74.
Rolex – An extremely rare, highly
attractive, and well-preserved yellow gold
triple calendar wristwatch with moonphases and two-tone dial

The Rolex Reference 8171, known as the “Padellone”(Italian for large frying pan) amongst collectors, is
one of the most legendary, best proportioned, andconsequently sought afer vintage wristwatches
ever made by any manufacturer. If one were to ask
the worldwide community of watch collectors whichmodel, in their view, should be on the all-time top-ten
list of collectors’ watches, Rolex’s large triple calendar
reference 8171, would certainly be most ofen cited.
During the end of the 1940s and into the 1950s, much of
Rolex’s design eforts concentrated on tool watches fora new world order, where an increasingly active publicdemanded precision timekeepers that could withstandthe harsh environments they encountered. Rolex’s two
full calendar watches – the references 8171 and 6062 were a departure from the tool watch to a complicatedwristwatch for the modern gentleman. Whether forbusiness, travel or the weekend, they were the only
two models Rolex ever produced indicating the day of
the week, month, date, and moon phase until the 2017
introduction of the Cellini Moonphase. Classically styled
wristwatches with a lineage reaching back to the days ofthe pocket watch, they were only in production for a very
short period between 1949 and 1952.

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

74.

Rolex – An extremely rare, highly attractive, and well-preserved yellow gold
triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases and two-tone dial

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1951

Reference No.

8171, inside case back stamped 8171

Movement No.

10’422/G4787

Case No.

820’634, interior stamped 613

Model Name

“Padellone”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 10 1/2’’, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Rolex lizard strap

Clasp/Buckle

Gold-plated Rolex buckle

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$220,000-360,000 ΣΔ€191,000-313,000

breathtaking when preserved in close to mint condition, suchas the current lot. On the opposite side of the scale, whensubjected to repeated and unprofessional polishing, most of
its charm and beauty is lost. This particular reference 8171
has happily not sufered such a fate. The Rolex crown andcase number on the back, notoriously susceptible to rubbingof or disappearing entirely with any unskilled polish, is stillquite visible with sharp defnition. The brushed fnishing
to the sides of the case and underside of the lugs is still
beautifully present, as is the Helvetia hallmark with the ‘G’for the Geneva bureau de contrôle below. The lugs are thickand full, and there is a defnitive step between the lugs andthe case, which is only seen on the best preserved models.

Literature
An example of the reference 8171 in 18K yellow gold is illustrated
in John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pp. 78-79.
Additional examples are illustrated on page 55.

Due to the sheer expanse of the dial, it is what draws the eye
frst when being evaluated by collectors and afcionados.
The current lot has a beautiful and desirable two-tone dial,
with the inner dial having aged to an even lemon crème colorthat harmonizes well with the lustre of the case. The blue
numerals on the outer day track are well preserved with nosigns of fading or loss. The overall efect is quite sublime.

Reference 8171 impresses not only with its large 38mm
diameter, especially when considering that a large
gentleman’s watch in 1950 was around 35mm, but inparticular with its harmonious case proportions and sharpedges, facets and angles. As a consequence, the 8171 case isFresh-to-the-market, it is even ftted with its original Rolex
strap and buckle – both as well-preserved as the case,indicating the watch was hardly ever worn. This timepieceofers collectors the opportunity to own one of the mostbeautiful and charismatic examples of the reference 8171 inyellow gold to surface in recent memory.

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ROLEX
Ref. 8171 “Padellone”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

75.

Omega – A fne and very rare chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel
and special orange chronograph hand

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1968

Reference No.

145.012-67 SP

Movement No.

26’077’243

Model Name

Speedmaster, “Ultraman”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 321, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel mesh bracelet, additional leather

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

strap

Estimate$20,000-30,000€17,400-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming saleof the present watch to Switzerland and production on June 21, 1968,
where the watch was ftted with a special orange hour hand.

The decades immediately following World War II weremarked by explosive technological growth, as global powers
sought to strengthen their military and economic status.
Wartime innovation led to incredible strides in the feld of
rocket science in particular, and in 1955, the Soviet Union
startled the world by sending the frst man into space,
Yuri Gagarin. The following ffeen years, until Apollo 11
successfully landed on the Moon, were marked by the Space
Race: an escalating competition between the U.S. and theSoviet Union on who would conquer the next great frontier.

Though stories of aliens had been part of folklore for
centuries, stories of men defending Earth from alien
invaders became more pervasive in popular culture once
the idea of entering space became a reality. And thus, inthe mid-1960s, Japanese director Eiji Tsuburaya (co-creatorof the original Godzilla series) began writing what would
become the Ultraman series. Tsuburaya used many of thelefover sets from Godzilla to create Ultraman, beginningin March 1966. Ultraman begins with an intergalactic
being (Ultraman) accidentally colliding with and killing amember of Earth’s Science Special Search Party (SSSP),
Shin Hayata. Feeling remorseful, Ultraman merges his own
life force with Hayata’s and vows to defend Earth against
any that would seek to threaten it. Ultraman lives within
Hayata, who transforms into Ultraman when the needarises. While Hayata is a normal man, Ultraman is a 131 foottall silver and red-orange creature. His crested head andlarge, intimidating eyes became instantly iconic, as did hisorange and silver suit. In 1971, Tsuburaya’s son spearheaded
the production of Ultraman Returns, where a diferent
iteration of Ultraman – Ultraman Jack – returns to Earth andteams up with the Monster Attack Team (MAT). According
to Omega, the producers of Ultraman Returns selected
Omega’s “Moonwatch” as part of the Monster Attack
Team’s monster fghting kit.
As mankind was developing the technologies required toenter space, they were also testing the means of timing
their eforts in that harsh environment. The Omega
Speedmaster’s place in the Space Race is well-documented,
particularly the reference 145.012-67 – it graced the wristsof astronauts on Apollo 11, Apollo 14, and Apollo-Soyuz.
It was the last Speedmaster model to be ftted with therenowned caliber 321 and is set apart from its predecessors
by its ‘SP’ (‘SP’ for “Spécial Poussoirs” or “special pushers”)
that increased water resistance. Though it is not known
why a selection of the reference 145.012-67 were ftted withan orange chronograph hand – legibility is one theory – itis estimated that less than ffy correct examples exist
with this bold, colorful detail. In order to be truly called
an “Ultraman”, the watch must be examined in person
by Omega and accompanied with a note on the archival
extract. These watches typically fall within a certain serial
number range - between 26’076’XXX and 26’079’XXX.
With the introduction in the summer of 2018 of theimmensely successful Speedy Tuesday Ultraman limited
edition, interest in vintage Ultraman Speedmasters has
dramatically increased. Perhaps, if alien invaders ever
did attack Earth, the brave men and women called todefend their planet would do so wearing a Speedmaster“Ultraman”. The present lot, preserved in originaland unpolished condition, is a superb example for the“defender” collector.

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OMEGA
Ref. 145.012 Speedmaster“Ultraman”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

76.

Rolex – An early and very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date,gas escape valve, “double red” Mk I dial, and patent pending caseback

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1968

Reference No.

1665; inside caseback stamped 1665 IV.67 440

Movement No.

D687880

Case No.

2’117’440, outer caseback inscribed “Patent
Pending”

Model Name

Sea-Dweller, “Double Red”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex buckle

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed; outercaseback inscribed “Patent Pending”

Estimate$80,000-160,000€69,500-139,000

Literature
For another example of a “Double Red” Sea-Dweller with “Patent
Pending” caseback, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches byJohn Goldberger, page 190.

The Sea-Dweller is now one of the most appreciated Rolex
timepieces, possibly because of its genesis as one of theultimate tool watches, born out of true necessity and grown
to become an iconic piece of watchmaking. Its history begins
in the mid-1960s. At the time, a number of international
experiments were developed with the goal of demonstrating
the possibility of living for an extended period of time(sometimes weeks) in underwater habitats. Rolex began
developing timepieces which would resist very deep dives,and underwater habitat conditions where a pressurized
mixture of helium and oxygen was used for breathing.

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The helium escape valve was an ingenious invention because
when working in helium-rich atmospheres, tiny helium
molecules would seep through the crystal and rubber gaskets
into the watch and create pressure once the diver had surfaced.
This would usually result in the crystal popping of. The
development of the valve was meant to prevent this issue byletting the gas escape the watch case and easing the pressure.
Today, it is well established that Rolex worked with a numberof divers and organizations around the world to aide in the
Sea-Dweller’s development. For example, the scientists of theAmerican underwater habitat, Tektite, wore such watches in1969 and 1970, and the same is true for the scientists working
at the Sealab III experiment. The name Sea-Dweller itself is adirect nod to the fact that the model had been developed tomeet the demands of scientists living - or “dwelling” - under
the sea. Following the positive results obtained with thesecompanies, Rolex went on to publicly commercialize the model.
The earliest iterations engraved with “Patent Pending Rolex
Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on their casebacks (such as thepresent example) are highly sought afer. These early models
were in efect prototypes, and their caseback interiors feature
the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - stamped
440 on the present example, as well as IV.67 indicatingproduction in the fourth quarter of 1967. The Mark 1 dial is asecond defning feature of these prototype models; the double
red printed Sea-Dweller on the frst line, and Submariner 2000
on the second – all words in an equal font size. The vividnessof the red color found on the present example is especially
noteworthy since these designations consisted of the red print
placed on top of white, that over time, would ofen fade to alight pink tone. Almost as exceptional as the history and rarityof this piece is its well-preserved condition, with thick chamferson the lugs and a sharp case.

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ROLEX
Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller“Patent Pending Double Red”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

77.
Rolex – An extremely rare, wellpreserved, and highly attractive stainlesssteel wristwatch with black lacquer “fourliner” dial, big crown, bracelet, ftted
presentation box, original guarantee, andchronometer certifcate

One look at this fresh-to-the-market Rolex Submarinerreference 6538 made in 1957, and several words will
come to mind, including breathtaking, spectacular,
and fascinating. Quite simply, it’s amongst the mostimpressive and best preserved “Big Crown” Submariner
wristwatches to appear publicly in recent years – anda dream watch for collectors in terms of its condition,
originality, and completeness.
First launched in 1955, reference 6538 is incredibly
desirable today due to its rarity, robust proportions,and good looks. The model was in production for
four short years, and is characterized by its black
lacquer “Swiss”-signed dial, lack of crown guards
and 8 millimeter crown, hence its name “Big Crown
Submariner”. Reference 6538 is forever immortalized
onscreen, having accompanied Sean Connery’s James
Bond on multiple secret missions. Bond’s chosen watch
was a “Big Crown” Submariner in the flms, Dr. No,
From Russia with Love, and Goldfnger. Consequently,
reference 6538 is today also known as the “James Bond
Submariner” to Rolex collectors and scholars.
This example, manufactured in 1957, is an earlyexample produced towards the beginning of thereference’s production period. Featuring its original“Big Crown”, the condition of the case is extraordinary,with its totally unpolished and hardly worn state ofpreservation, sharp crisp lines, and factory original
bevels - making it one of the fnest examples toever appear at auction. Once the watch is turned
over, collectors will notice a unique hand engraved
inscription reading “GES 362-24-6858”, certainly not
the usual military markings one fnds for example ona reference 5513 “MilSub” [see lot 28]. It is believed
through research the watch was originally owned bya George E. Stoddard born in 1924 and died 1997. It
is possible he inscribed his initials and social security
number on the timepiece in case his watch was everlost – particularly relevant if he served in the military.

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

77.

Rolex – An extremely rare, well preserved, and highly attractive stainless steel
wristwatch with black lacquer “four liner” dial, big crown, bracelet, ftted
presentation box, original guarantee, and chronometer certifcate

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1957

Reference No.

6538

Movement No.

N726’204

Case No.

307’234, inside case back stamped III.57

Model Name

Submariner, “Big Crown”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, max
overall length 215mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

stamped 7-70

Estimate$300,000-600,000€261,000-521,000

Literature
For a similar example of a reference 6538 “‘Big Crown” modelsee 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, pp.
206 and 207.
Accessories
Accompanied by ftted Rolex presentation box, original
guarantee card, and original chronometer certifcate dated
August 12th, 1957.

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Another exciting detail found on the case is thepresence of a hardly ever seen transitional bezel with
red triangle at the 12 o’clock position, and no minutesubdivisions. Compared with earlier models, whichfeatured silver triangles, and slightly later models
with red triangle and minute sub-divisions until the 15
minute mark, the present bezel is exceptionally rare.
Fitted with the original curved crystal as deliveredby the factory over 60 years ago, beneath it lies thestunning, original lacquer dial. Beautifully preservedwith attractive signs of aging, its surface remains
highly glossy and vivid, with its gilt lettering and minutechapter ring remaining especially vibrant. The luminous
hour markers remain perfectly intact and have aged toa warm beige color. Known as a “Four Liner”, the dial
displays “Ofcially Certifed Chronometer”, comprising
two lines of text underneath the depth rating. This
designation denotes that the watch is ftted with achronometer certifed movement. “Four liner” dials areespecially beloved by collectors, and considered rarer
than their “two-liner” counterparts.
Together, these attributes make the watch exceptional,
but one more detail propels it to the next level:
the presence of its original box, guarantee, andchronometer rating certifcate – especially ftting
considering the chronometer designation found on
the dial. To fnd an example, still retaining its original
accessories afer 61 years, is a truly rare opportunity
and anomaly in the world of Submariner “tool watches”.
A rare treasure that would certainly be the crown jewelof a Rolex sports watch collection.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6538 Submariner“Four-Liner Big Crown”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

78.

Rolex – An early, very rare, and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with“mark 1” dial, 24-hour indication, date and bracelet, retailed by Joyeria
Ricciardi, Buenos Aires

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1971

Reference No.

1655

Movement No.

D930’957

Case No.

2’770’331, inside case back further stamped II.71

Model Name

Explorer II, “Freccione”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped
7836, end links stamped 280, max overall length
195mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

stamped 11.71

Estimate$18,000-30,000€15,600-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex presentation box with Ricciardi retailer
signature.

Rolex introduced the Explorer II as a new generation of thefamed Explorer family of wristwatches frst introduced in theearly 1950s. With the successful ascent of Mount Everest by
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzig Norgay, Rolex sought to ofera robust and wearable tool watch meeting the demands ofearly mountaineers.

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The unique design, with the engraved 24-hour calibrated
bezel and oversized center hand, referred to by collectors
as “Freccione” or big arrow, permits the wearer to easily telltime in the darkness of caves. The triangular-shaped handindicates the time on the non-rotating 24-hour calibrated
steel bezel. While reminiscent of the 24-hour rotating bezelof the GMT-Master, this watch is not for dual time purposes,
but solely for those who are in darkness for prolonged
periods of time, and enables the wearer to diferentiate
night and day.
The present lot is an exceptional, early example, featuring
all the correct elements of frst generation examples of thereference that are so sought afer by collectors – straightseconds hand, Mark 1 bezel, and Mark 1 dial. Fresh-tothe-auction market and manufactured in the frst yearof the model’s production, it’s preserved in wonderful
original condition with an unpolished case and dial thathas beautifully aged over the last 47 years. Elevating
its importance, the watch is further enhanced by handstamped inventory numbers to the underside of thelugs, the unmistakable mark of a watch retailed by theprestigious Joyeria Ricciardi of Buenos Aires, and one ofless than a handful known to exist. The warm brownish
hues of the luminous hour markers match the hue of theluminous hands, while the case has strong proportions andclearly defned lug bevels as delivered from the factory.
The reference 1655 is an exciting reference for collectors – aprominent model within the Rolex product line since it was
frst introduced. Accompanied with its Ricciardi-signed
Rolex box, it is not only an all original early example, retailed
by Ricciardi, it is one of the fnest examples of the reference
to appear on the market.

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ROLEX
1655 Explorer II“Mark 1 Ricciardi”

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

79.
Patek Philippe – An extremely rare,
well preserved, and highly attractive
pink gold dual time wristwatch withseparately adjustable hour hand, retailed
by Gobbi, Milano

The mid-20th century emerged from the war years witha new world order with some nations in ruin, and others
the new dominant powers. The sea change occurring
politically, further changed the societal fabric with a
new perspective, witnessing a breakdown of old classbarriers, to one more casual and egalitarian. Thesechanges afected all aspects of life and horology was no
exception. By the early 1950s, brands competed to maketool watches that had both commercial and recreational
uses. The growth of global travel that began in the earlyyears of the 20th century blossomed with the advent ofjet travel in the 1950s and 1960s, and it was to these new
globe trotters that brands sought to produce watches,
which not only told time, but had a functional purpose
when crossing multiple time zones. The watches could
be masculine and rugged in stainless steel, or elegant
and gentlemanly in solid gold. Patek Philippe’s reference
2597 was one of the most sophisticated and innovative
designs from this early era.
Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958,
which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype
from 1953 with heures sautantes, or jumping hours.
Cottier, an independent watchmaker, was known for his
ingenious work on specialized timepieces from jumping
digital hour watches, to aviators’ watches and mostnotably his “World Time” mechanism from 1931. Over the
span of almost 30 years, he delivered to Patek Philippe
approximately 380 watch movements leading to someof the most sought afer timepieces of the 20th century,
including the reference 1415 “World Time” with engraved
bezel with 41 world cities, the reference 2523 - a twocrown “World Time” watch rotating world city ring on thedial, and the reference 2597 which came in two series.
The frst, like the present watch, with one hour hand andtwo pushers in the lef side of the case allowing for thehour hand to be quickly adjusted forward or backward.
The second series, launched in 1962 added an additionalhour hand. So intelligent and enduring was this design,a version of the same system can be found in Patek
Philippe’s World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G launchedin 2016. Scholarship tells us that the frst version wasmade in approximately 100 pieces, with the vast majority
cased in yellow gold.

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

79.

Patek Philippe – An important, extremely rare, well preserved, and highly
attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with separately adjustable hour hand,retailed by Gobbi, Milano

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1959

Reference No.

2597

Movement No.

727’314

Case No.

309’779

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$150,000-300,000€130,000-261,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch in pink gold in 1959 and its
subsequent sale on April 14th, 1960.
Literature
Examples of the reference 2597 are illustrated in Patek Philippe
Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, pp.
238 & 239.

The present example is a remarkable and exciting discovery.
Absolutely fresh-to-the-market and previously unknown,
it remained in the original owner’s possession for most of
its life, appearing publicly here for the frst time. According
to scholarship, it is only the second example of a frst seriesreference 2597 in pink gold to ever appear – and the present
watch further impresses with its outstanding overall
condition. Elevating the watch’s importance, it’s believed
to be the frst and only known reference 2597 across both
series to appear with the prestigious “Gobbi, Milano”
retailer signature.
The large case is beautifully preserved with strong
proportions, having never been polished, and showing signsof modest wear – enjoyed perhaps only for special occasions
throughout the owner’s lifetime. Impressively, the inside
caseback shows no service marks of any kind - proof thatthe watch has seen no intervention throughout its lifespan.
Its dial is stunning, with slender raised enamel numerals
with four lapidated markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
The raised hard enamel signature, as well as the retailer
signature, remain perfectly intact with no losses from priorcleanings.
The 1950s was a period of great innovation and understatedcase design with many models becoming icons of 20th
century horology. This lot, with its rarity and superb
condition, is sure to please not only the frequent traveler
but also the discerning collector looking for a historicallysignifcant horological masterpiece.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2597

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

80.
Patek Philippe – An early, extremely
fne and very rare yellow gold perpetualcalendar wristwatch with sweep centerseconds and moon phases

Alongside the famed perpetual calendar chronographreference 2499, Patek Philippe released the simple
perpetual calendar reference 2497, just as it had released
the predecessor reference 1518 alongside the reference
1526. The references 2497 and 2499 were designed withlarger diameter cases featuring more robust and elaborate
lugs compared with their predecessors. Additionally, awaterproof companion was introduced shortly afer thereference 2497, the rare reference 2438/1. Establishedscholarship tells us that there were a combined total of only
179 total examples made across both references 2497 and2438/1, with movement numbers spanning from 888’000
to 888’178. Some two thirds of these movements wereplaced within the reference 2497 over a production spanof over 10 years. In fact, Patek Philippe took the challengeof creating a so-called “simple” perpetual calendar (if sucha thing is not an oxymoron) to heart, adapting their muchlauded caliber 27 SC (SC for “seconde au centre”) to havea perpetual calendar function, transforming it into the 27
SC Q (Q for “quantième”). The sibling references 2497 and2438/1 were the world’s frst perpetual calendars withcenter seconds.
The case is virtually identical to the reference 2499,
with gracefully futed lugs and a robust, stepped case.
Early examples such as the present lot are further
characterized by delicate feuille hands and alternating
gold dot and Arabic numeral indices. While the majorityof the cases were made by Wenger, the earliest examples
in the series, such as the present lot with the movement
number 888’008, were manufactured by Vichet. These
are characterized by a fat caseback and elongated, more
dramatically downturned lugs that permit the watch to beelevated when laid fat on a surface. The simplifed dial withcenter seconds instead of subsidiary seconds, as well as
the removal of the railway-style outer seconds track gives
the watch an overall cleaner and highly legible appearance.
Scholarship estimates that only approximately 15 examplesof the reference 2497 with a Vichet case are believed tohave been produced in yellow gold.

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering

80.

Patek Philippe – An early, extremely fne and very rare yellow gold perpetualcalendar wristwatch with sweep center seconds and moon phases

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1951

Reference No.

2497

Movement No.

888’008, further stamped twice with theCase No.

674’373

Material

18K yellow gold

Geneva seal

CalibreManual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

37mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$250,000-350,000 O€217,000-304,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive
confrming the present watch was manufactured in 1951 and sold on
October 29th, 1953.
Literature
A similar reference 2497 in yellow gold, bearing the case number
674’378 and the movement number 888’019 is catalogued in Patek
Philippe Museum - Patek Philippe Watches: Volume II, pp. 295

Rarely does this reference appear at auction in suchsuperlative condition, but even more rare is theappearance of a 2497 with such an early movement
number – the ninth example ever produced. In fact, theyellow gold 2497 currently in the collection of the Patek
Philippe Museum is also ftted with a Vichet case with caseserial number only fve digits later than the present lot,with a movement serial number 11 digits later.
A fascinating detail of the present lot is the movement
number: 888’008. The number eight has long held greatsignifcance in most of the world’s religions and cultures,
as well as architecture, music, and mathematics. In both
Hinduism and Chinese culture, the number eight signifes
wealth, while in Islam, eight signifes the number of angels
that carry the throne of Allah in heaven. In Buddhism, theNoble Eightfold Path is a list of eight tenets that one must
keep to in order to escape the cycle of rebirth.
The present Patek Philippe reference 2497 has notappeared on the auction market since it was frst soldtwenty-two years ago, and it has clearly been carefullytreasured in the intervening decades. Preserved in
exceptional condition, with a crisp case having developed
a beautiful rainbow-colored patina from lack of wear,
it is a worthy addition for a distinguished collection ofcomplicated vintage Patek Philippe watches.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2497

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8. Watch Enthusiasts’ Gathering81.

Rolex – A well-preserved and rare stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch withcenter seconds, black dial, caseback sticker, bracelet, additional silver dial,
original punched guarantee, and original presentation box
Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1970

Reference No.

1019, inside case back stamped 1019 III.68

Movement No.

M’711’858

Case No.

2’626’181

Model Name

Milgauss

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference
78360, end links stamped no. 558, max length
220mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference
78360, stamped F for 1981

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 O€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by additional silver dial, punched guarantee papers
from Schaap en Citroen Juweliers B.V. in Amsterdam, productliterature, hang tag, original inner and outer box, with the serial
number attached to the outer box.
Literature
The present reference 1019 is documented and illustrated in 100
Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, p. 183.

The Milgauss is the result of a direct collaboration between
Rolex and the Geneva-based nuclear-research organization,
CERN - Centre Européen de Recherche Nucléaire (European
Organization for Nuclear Research). Their aim was to develop
a wristwatch that could withstand intense magnetic felds.
In the early 1960s, the newly introduced Rolex Milgaussreference 1019, like the present lot, replaced the original two
versions: references 6541 and 6543. Signifcantly thinnerthan its predecessors, it was manufactured until 1990 and
was available only in stainless steel.
The present watch is ftted with a fawless black matte dialthat permits the desirable red “Milgauss” text at 12 o’clock
to vividly stand out. An exceptional and complete example
preserved in outstanding condition, it retains all its sharpedges and bevels. The presence of the original Rolex sticker
on the case back suggests that this watch was rarely worn.
Attesting to the quality of the present lot, it was selected as
an exemplary example of the reference in John Goldberger’s
tome, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches. Accompanied by its
original guarantee, box and hangtag, as well as an additional
silver Milgauss dial, it is a great fnd for the connoisseur of
vintage wristwatches

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ROLEX
Ref. 1019 Milgauss

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9. Après-ski
Reaching peak style on the slopes

Skiing’s status as the world’s most fashionable high society sport
is said to go back 150 years, when St Moritz started to accrue a
reputation as the Alpine playground for the wealthy and famous.
So it’s no surprise that so much is written about which jackets,
goggles and other paraphernalia might elevate one’s on-piste
status to somewhere near the peak.
But what to change into once those downhill blades have been
leant against the wall for the day? In a way, après-ski is a leveller:
the part of the daily schedule when the snow- ploughing novices
and those who have spent the day shredding the double black
diamond runs congregate on a level playing feld. This is yourchance to get ahead of the game sartorially, however modest yourabilities with a strip of low-friction carbon fbre between your feet
and an icy gradient.
The aesthetic aim should be to look in-situ - to ft into an ultra-cosy
and social environment - yet distinctive from the many revelers
who will, in their hurry to get to the gluhwein kettle, have gone nofurther than removing their salopette straps from their shoulders.
Practical considerations, meanwhile, include warm footwear andglove-friendly fastening devices for outdoor events, while layering
is a great way to a) cope with highly varied temperatures andb) rock a contrasting look to the sporty, padded two-piece one
you’ve donned all day on the slopes.
Here are two ensembles that’ll impress your fellow aching revelers
from Courchevel to Nozawa Onsen via Aspen.

Lots 82 to 91
Half a day’s journey through icy mountain passes will bring you,shaken from your hair-raising drive, to another exquisite alpine
destination. Nestled in the Dolomites of Northern Italy, Cortina
d’Ampezzo has hosted the Winter Olympics and starred in James
Bond movies. Its slew of resorts and access to some of the bestsnow sports in Europe has made it a premium destination for
those looking to excel on the slopes and of. Those who travel toan alpine jewel such as this must select watches robust enough toweather freezing temperatures and double black diamond runs
but with the appropriate versatility to accompany a warm drink
and a casual tour of the boutiques. A tool watch from brands suchas Rolex, Omega, or Heuer is the logical choice when choosing a
timepiece to brave the slopes of the Alps or the Rockies – perhaps
even a waterproof chronograph nicknamed afer one of thegreatest skiers of all time, Jean-Claude Killy. For a more luxurious
look, an oversized yellow gold chronograph with black dial from
Patek Philippe is a sure bet.

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Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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Mr Porter’s lookLot 86
Patek Philippe. Nautilus reference 3700/1,
stainless steel, circa 1980

A hygge approach to haute-fashion, here, perfect for awinter wonderland. The look is spearheaded by a zipped
cardigan in premium cashmere blend – a thinking man’s
Christmas jumper, basically – from Brunello Cucinelli.
The Canali roll-neck sweater, knitted in Italy from sof
woollen yarns, has a pleasingly tactile feel (this garment isanother men’s wardrobe staple: a few of these will hike up
your wardrobe’s potential permutations immeasurably, andare great for overseas travel). Another Italian purveyor ofworld-beating fabrics, Loro Piana, have here provided themulti-seasonal, fnely waled corduroy trousers in beige.
Moncler’s beanie in water-resistant virgin wool yarns is thelook’s crowning glory, while Sorel's heavy-duty ‘Madson’
hiking boots with rubber lug soles ensure a steady footing
both literally and sartorially: Moscot’s ‘Spiel’ sunglasses,with clip-on UV Lenses – making them perfect for
twilight – are the piste-de-resistance. Tim Burton and Jef
Goldblum are among afcionados of this New York-basedeyewear specialist.

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Cardigan by Brunello Cucinelli
Roll neck by Canali
Trousers by Loro Piana
Beanie by Moncler
Sunglasses by Thom Browne
Boots by Sorel

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The Rake’s lookLot 87
Vacheron Constantin. Turnograph reference
6782, 18K yellow gold, circa 1970

Your outerwear is going to be a major talking point whentrying to bring a level of chic associated with the streetsof Milan to the peaks that rise to the north of it. Once
your top layer is shed though – and we’d heartily endorse
the fact that (paradox alert) highly dandy ski-jackets areout there – you’ll need to prove that your style smarts gobeyond the superfcial.
A good head start is provided here by Irish knitwear
company Inis Meáin, whose oyster grey trellis-knit merinowool jumper underlies the Grenfell gilet with supportingrole élan. Alps & Meters are behind a pair of trousers
which, being rendered from a wool-and-water repellent
fabric (they also have a waterproof membrane lining) andboasting an inseam ventilation and waterproof pockets,
would easily serve you on the slopes too.
The boots, in almond-grained calf leather with a shearling
lining and a Dainite rubber sole with excellent grip byCheaney, will prove the perfect antidote to a day in ski boots.

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Gilet by Grenfell
Roll neck lnis Meain
Trousers by Alps & Meters
Boots by Cheaney

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82.

Omega – A very fne and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “Broad
Arrow” hands

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1959

Reference No.

2913-3

Movement No.

16’038’288, movement further stamped “OXG”

Model Name

Seamaster 300

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 500, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000€13,000-21,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present timepiece on March 12, 1959 and its
subsequent sale to the United States.
Literature
A similar example of a reference 2913-3 is illustrated in John
Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 46-47.

The Seamaster line is the longest-running series of Omega
models still in production today. Its origin dates back to1948 when, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the brand,
a new wristwatch model was released for the occasion.
Featuring robust water resistance capabilities, this wasa civilian adaptation of technologies developed during
wartime. These early Seamasters still maintained thedesign typical of post-war, time-only wristwatches such as asmaller case diameter and delicate architectural elements.

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The early 1950s saw global population growth beginningto emerge from the shadow of World War II, a boom in
the international economy and technical innovation, anda growing public desire for leisure activities. Fittingly,
it also saw the birth of iconic tool watches such as the
Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fify Fathoms, and theZodiac Sea Wolf. A few years later, in 1957, Omega joined
the fray, introducing their now-celebrated “Holy Trinity”
of professional timepieces: the Speedmaster (ref.
CK2915) for timing industrial production, the Railmaster(ref. CK2914) for engineering and other specialized workin magnetized environment, and indeed the Seamaster
300 (ref. 2913, exemplifed by the present lot) for
diving. These three models are considered so iconic andlandmark, that last year (2017) a re-edition of all three
was issued by Omega to overwhelming acclaim from thecollector community.
This early third iteration of the frst generation of theOmega Seamaster 300, reference 2913-3, is almost
identical to the frst and second iteration, the references
2914-1 and -2. Produced in 1959, it sports the same
“Broad Arrow” handset, triangle indexes, and bimetallic rotating bezel in its original Bakelite. With its
O-ring gasket and screw-down caseback providing
water resistance, the Omega Seamaster 300 was able
to withstand depths of up to 300 meters; in fact, it is
known to have reached 365 meters. Though sometimes
seen with the lollipop seconds hands, advertisements ofthe time show that the model was ofered without thelollipop seconds hand, as is the case with the present
lot. Future generations of Seamaster would take myriad
forms, but nothing can quite compete with the original.

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OMEGA
Ref. 2913-3 Seamaster 300

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83.

Rolex – An early, very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver’s
wristwatch with glossy gilt dial, bracelet, and pointed crown guards

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1961

Reference No.

5512, inside caseback stamped III.61

Movement No.

94’195

Case No.

693’224

Model Name

Submariner

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet,
max length 230mm, end links stamped 80

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
stamped 2.61

Dimensions

39.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000€17,400-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied with its original Rolex box, original crystal andgasket.

Though the frst Rolex Submariners were produced in
1953, and released afer their debut at Basel in 1954
with the references 6200, 6204, and 6205 (diferences
in movements used and water resistance diferentiatedeach), the reference 5512 was the frst Submarinerreference to feature now-ubiquitous crown guards.
Developed as a tool watch, the Submariner wasmarketed to commercial and recreational divers. The

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addition of the crown guards made the watch more robust,protecting the watch crown from unintentional damage.
Like many intricacies of collecting vintage Rolex
wristwatches, the various iterations of crown guards havedeveloped their own nicknames and followings as thedesign evolved. The earliest were square-shaped, of which
it is estimated very few exist. The subsequent generation
featured crown guards that are also sometimes known as“eagle beak” due to their resemblance to the mandibles ofthe bird of prey. They were quickly replaced by less beaklike crown guards, known simply as pointed crown guards(sometimes abbreviated by collectors as PCG), as found on
the present example. These early Submariners were ftted
with stunning black glossy dials and featured either two or
four lines of text at 6 o’clock with gilt printing in either silveror gold (or both). By the late-1960s, the crown guards werechanged to a rounder design that is still in use today.
Exceptional details present on this example make it a highly
coveted reference 5512 – especially its stunning, nearly
perfectly preserved glossy dial. The silver gilt outer seconds
track, referred to as a “chapter ring” by collectors, isemblematic of these early examples, matching the correctsilver gilt two-lines of text found at 6 o’clock. Considering
the strong case with beautiful, factory-original bevels stillseen on the lugs is completed with its original and wellpreserved Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet stamped from thesecond quarter of 1961, it is safe to say that this reference
5512 has spent the past half century sitting mostly unused
in a drawer rather than seeing frequent wear.

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ROLEX
Ref. 5512 Submariner

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84.

Rolex – A very attractive and rare stainless steel triple calendar chronographwristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1959

Reference No.

6236

Case No.

384’210Model Name

Oyster Chronograph, “Jean-Claude Killy”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 72C, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster expandable bracelet,
end links stamped 57, max overall length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
4.64

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$150,000-250,000 O€130,000-217,000
Accessories
With green leather Rolex presentation box
Literature
A similar reference 6236 in stainless steel is illustrated in 100
Superlative Rolex Watches, by John Goldberger, pp. 156 and 157.

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From 1947 until 1962, Rolex produced a series of rare andinnovative triple calendar chronograph wristwatches.
These included the references 4767, 5036, 3036 and6236. Produced in very limited numbers, they weremade in yellow and pink gold, as well as stainless steel.
Initially known as the Dato-Compax, today they are moregenerally referred to as the “Jean-Claude Killy”, namedafer the three time French Olympic ski champion, who
was ofen seen wearing a model 6236 like the present
timepiece. Over the course of the model’s 15 years of
production, Rolex modifed both the case and dial for amore refned, cleaner look with the reference 6236 being
the fnal model of the series, featuring a three-piece casewith a larger, more prominent bezel.
The present example is very well-preserved with abeautiful and original dial highlighted by the outer
blue calendar ring with closed 6 and 9 numerals andembossed Rolex crown at the 12 position. The double
faceted, polished numerals embossed in relief have aged
nicely through the years with the luminous hour markers
and hands aging to a lovely light brownish hue. Today’s
collectors are seeking timepieces that not only defne
their collection, but help establish the historical timelineof a brand. A “Jean-Claude Killy” is an important step inthe evolution of any collection – a “must-have” trophy
watch for discerning connoisseurs seeking to own oneof the most prestigious and complicated watches evermade by Rolex.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6236 “Jean-Claude Killy”

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85.

Heuer – An early, very fne, and rare stainless steel square-shaped chronographwristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer

Heuer

Year

1969

Reference No.

1133B

Case No.

157’873, further stamped Tool No. 033

Model Name

Monaco, “Chronomatic”

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 12, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Heuer stainless steel bracelet, max overall length
185mm

Clasp/Buckle

Heuer stainless steel deployant buckle

Dimensions

45.5mm overall length, 44mm width

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000€10,400-15,600

Launched in 1969, the Heuer Monaco was one of the frst
automatic chronograph wristwatches available in themarket. Along with the self-winding Zenith El Primero, thesechronograph watches were at the forefront of innovative
design and technology of the 1960s and 1970s. The oversizedsquare-shaped case, manufactured by Ervin Piquerez SA(EPSA), with lef-handed winding and setting crown were

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unique features designed by Jack Heuer, and while acompletely new concept at the time, today this model
has become an icon known for its contemporary lookand feel. The watch gained notoriety when Steve
McQueen wore an example in the classic racing flm“Le Mans”.
The present example features a rare and hardly everseen transitional dial, made even more desirable due
to its unpolished case. The very frst examples of themodel featured the wording “Chronomatic” at the
top of the dial with the “Monaco” signature at thebottom. Early on, the Monaco’s dial layout changed
and “Monaco” was moved to the top, with the wording“Automatic Chronograph” added to the bottom. The“transitional” dial of the present lot stands out withits dynamic midnight blue color with brushed fnish
that yields a myriad of colors with diferent lighting
angles. It is ftted with early polished stainless steelhands with square-tipped ends, compared with thepolished steel hands with triangular red tipped hands
seen on slightly later examples. The mid-20th century
is widely considered the Golden Age of chronographwristwatches, and this uniquely designed Monaco is an
exceptional example for the discerning collector.

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HEUER
Ref. 1133B Monaco “Transitional”

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86.

Patek Philippe – A very attractive, rare and well-preserved stainless steel
wristwatch with date and bracelet

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1980

Reference No.

3700/1

Movement No.

1’309’500

Case No.

539’312Model Name

Nautilus

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 28”255 C, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max length
210mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000€43,400-86,900
Accessories
Accompanied by original cork box and service history documentation.
Further accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1980 and its
subsequent sale on September 15th, 1981.

The result of a collaboration between Patek Philippe anddesigner Gerald Genta, the Nautilus’ unique appearance wasinspired by maritime portholes and named for Captain Nemo’s
submarine, the Nautilus, in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand
Leagues Under the Sea. Much as the fctional nautical vessel
was described as “a masterpiece containing masterpieces,” sodoes the Nautilus wristwatch possess a numerous variety ofartistic cues. The reference 3700/1 embodies every aspect ofPatek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s,

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from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting fnish of
the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating
in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. Advertisementsfrom the era trumpeted the Nautilus’ status as one of themost expensive steel wristwatches, and proclaimed “Like thegreat swords of another age, Nautilus took shape between theskilled hands of master crafsmen.” Evidence suggests that of
all Genta’s iconic designs, the Nautilus was his favorite and heperhaps regarded it as his most timeless.
Owing to a thinner caliber, the 3700/1 retains a slimmer profle
than its 21st century descendent, the 5711/1A, introduced on
the 40th anniversary of the 3700 in 2006. The caliber 28-255
was based on the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC 920, heavily
modifed by Patek Philippe. At the time it was the world’s
thinnest automatic movement with date, measuring only
3.05mm thick.
The “Jumbo” moniker refers to the 42mm case, which wascertainly oversized for the era. While it was initially not wellreceived, its popularity quickly grew, and has been a mainstay
of Patek Philippe’s collection until the present day. Patek
Philippe produced two versions of the Nautilus ref 3700 insteel: 3700/1 from 1976 to about 1981 featuring a straightbracelet as is the present lot, and reference 3700/11, in
production from 1981 to 1990, with a tapered steel bracelet.
The present lot manufactured in 1980 is a premium example insuperb condition, with a well preserved case, immaculate dial,
and taut bracelet that is certain to delight a collector. It comes
accompanied with the Nautilus’s famous original cork box – ahighly collectible and sought afer accessory in its own right.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “Jumbo”

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87.

Vacheron Constantin – A very rare and highly attractive yellow gold wristwatchwith rotating bezel, original guarantee, and box.

Manufacturer

Vacheron Constantin

Year

1970

Reference No.

6782

Movement No.

626’738

Case No.

458’556

Model Name

TurnographMaterial

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. K 1072, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000 O€10,400-15,600
Accessories
Accompanied by original guarantee confrming sale of the present
watch on October 10th, 1971 and original presentation box.
Furthermore accompanied by Extract from the Archives confrming
manufacture in 1970.

Most watch companies can be classifed according to their
typical output: from manufacturers specialized in high-end
complicated pieces and dress watches (such as Vacheron
Constantin and Patek Philippe) to companies devoted toprofessional wristwatches (for example, Rolex or Omega),
it is undeniable that most brands have some sort of core
specialization which in turn becomes part of their identity.

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When a brand steps outside of that comfort zone, theresult is most ofen a very scarce and highly collectiblemodel. The Rolex references 6062 and 8171 with triple
calendar and moon phase indications are two examples.
The extremely elusive Vacheron Constantin reference
6782 Turnograph, the present lot, is another.
With a rich heritage characterized by elegant dress
watches, Vacheron Constantin’s production of sport/
tool pieces is nowadays extremely restricted, and in the
1950s was virtually nonexistent. That is, until the releaseof the “Turnograph”, nicknamed as such due to its
similarities to the Rolex reference 1625. Rather thick for
dress watches of the time, it features a waterproof caseand rotating bezel to measure elapsed time. However,even though it can be classifed as a sports watch, thedesign cues are still undeniably of Vacheron Constantin,with a luxurious champagne dial, refned milling on thebezel, and an 18K gold decorated rotor stamped with the
Geneva seal.
While the overall production numbers for the reference
cannot be confrmed, it appears to be a very rare
timepiece judging by the frequency of its appearance
on the market. Since production was so low, it is evenmore interesting that dial layouts and design tend tovary between examples. The present example features
baton indexes and a matching baton handset inlaid withblack to increase legibility. This is an extremely beautiful
and well-preserved timepiece, further enhanced by its
accompanying original ftted box and guarantee.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 6782 “Turnograph”

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88.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and oversized yellow gold chronographwristwatch with certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1999

Reference No.

5070J-001

Movement No.

3’146’500

Case No.

4’068’664

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 27-70 CHR, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$40,000-60,000 Σ€34,700-52,100
Accessories
Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin indicating it was sold byRüschenbeck KG, product literature, leather wallet, inner andouter presentation box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe
Extract from the Archive indicating sale of the present timepiece on
November 30th, 1999.

The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the frst chronographonly wristwatch released by the frm since the 1960s when
production of the iconic water resistant reference 1463
ceased. Introduced in 1998 at Basel, it was something of ashock to collectors that Patek would choose to reintroduce
their chronograph-only line in such bold fashion – particularly
the oversized 42mm case diameter and the dramatically thick,stepped bezel. First released in 18K yellow gold with a black

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dial, such as the present example, the manufacture drew
inspiration for the design of the 5070 from a unique, splitseconds chronograph wristwatch from the early 1950s:
the extraordinary reference 2512, which measured at anincredible 46.2mm in diameter with infuences from the
Art Deco period and large aviator’s watches. The reference
2512 is currently housed in the Patek Philippe Museum in
Geneva.
Later produced in white gold, rose gold, and platinum, theyellow gold reference 5070, was discontinued soon afer
its launch, yet is the most faithful to the original design
inspiration, the 2512, as it features the same yellow goldcase material and black dial color. Even the applied yellow
gold Arabic numerals echo the mirrored numerals on theoriginal reference. The movement powering the 5070, thecalibre 27-70, is based on the Lemania 2310 – signifcantly
modifed by Patek Philippe. An ébauche used famously as
the Omega caliber 321, powering Omega Speedmasters
from their inception in 1957 until the fnal reference
145.012 in 1969, the Lemania 2310 is a column wheel
chronograph with a distinctive “wishbone” shaped bridge,
used by many brands since it frst created by Albert Piguet
and Jaques Reymond in 1942. In its current form as thecaliber 27-70, it features exceptional fnishing by Patek
Philippe in their typical style, and is stamped with theprestigious Geneva Seal.
Preserved in virtually untouched condition, it’s a superb
example for the connoisseur, presented complete with its
original boxes, pamphlets and certifcate of origin.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5070J

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89.

Rolex – An extremely rare, very fne, and attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1969

Reference No.

6264, inside caseback stamped 6239

Case No.

2’417’911

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Paul Newman”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference
number 7835/19, end links stamped no. 271,
max length 215mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
3.70

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$200,000-400,000€174,000-347,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex ftted presentation box and outer box.
Literature
A similar example of a reference 6264 with “Paul Newman” dial
is illustrated in The Ultimate Rolex Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp.
308-309.

Amongst all of the Cosmograph Daytonas, the reference
6264 is considered to be one of the rarest and most
exclusive of all Daytona models made by Rolex. In
production for a few years in the early 1970s, its releasecoincided with that of the reference 6262. While physicallysimilar to their predecessor references 6239 and 6241,
references 6262 and 6264 were ftted with the upgraded

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Valjoux movement caliber 727. The two references
are nearly identical, except for the bezels. The steel
bezel on the 6262 bezel is engraved, whereas the 6264
sports a highly resistant acrylic ring with tachometerscale printed in white. Both models would be the last
to feature pump pushers, as the introduction of the ofscrew-down pushers cemented the design of the watch,and made it worthy of Rolex’s “Oyster” moniker as would
be seen in the references 6263 and 6265. The rarest of
all regular production Daytona models, it is believed that
only some 1,700 examples in stainless steel were evermade of reference 6264.
The present watch is ftted with a beautiful “Paul
Newman” dial, which is instantly recognizable due toits deco-style numerals within the sub registers. While
Paul Newman himself donned an exotic dial reference
6239, his name is forever synonymous with exotic dialed
Cosmograph wristwatches. The black on white grenédial, coupled with red “Daytona” text, makes for an
incredibly eye-catching and attractive wristwatch. The
luminous dots have aged to a pleasing warm yellow tone.
Presented in exceptional condition, this example boasts
a crisp case with its sharp, factory fnishing intact androbust proportions. The white grené dial is equallystunning with no imperfections and intact luminous
hour markers that have aged uniformly to a pleasing
vanilla color. It furthermore retains its original andcorrect Mark I bezel, which is incredibly sought afer
today. Very few reference 6264 Daytonas surface
publicly, and the discerning collector is sure to appreciate
the quality, condition, and aesthetic appeal of thispremium example.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6264 Cosmograph Daytona“Paul Newman”

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9. Après-ski

90.

Movado – A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronographwristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and bracelet

Manufacturer

MovadoYear

Circa 1966

Reference No.

95 704 568

Case No.

1918

Model Name

Sub-Sea

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. C 95 M, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Movado bracelet, max length
195mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel deployant clasp

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$7,000-14,000€6,100-12,200

Founded in 1881 in La Chaux de Fonds, Movado establishedits reputation as a high quality movement manufacturer,
designing, testing and assembling their own movements
under one roof. Following World War II, only a handful ofbrands were capable of producing in-house movements,
with most brands purchasing ébauches and fnishing themto their specifcations.

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Movado’s Sub-Sea model was the brand’s water resistantchronograph wristwatch, using their C 95 M chronographcaliber and a Taubert & Fils-made case. Taubert was arespected case maker specializing in water-resistant cases- supplying them to some of Switzerland’s most prestigious
brands. Taubert & Fils cases are found on many well-known
stainless steel models, including Patek Philippe’s reference
1463 chronograph and the time-only reference 565. Though
Taubert & Fils purchased François Borgel’s case-making
company in 1924, it is interesting to note the frm neverchanged their maker’s mark, and today Taubert & Filssupplied cases still feature the “FB” hallmark.
The present watch is in superb condition, with a wellpreserved case and bracelet showing little signs of wear.
This is reinforced by the sharp lugs and crisp lines observed
throughout the case. Later Movado Sub-Seas would
become increasingly bolder and sportier, to adjust to theevolving aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s, but the current
example combines the best of the early-mid century withlater masculine elements. The eggshell white dial contrasts
beautifully with the robin’s egg blue of the tachymeter dial still vibrant afer over half a century of existence.

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MOVADO
Ref. 95 Sub-Sea

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91.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar wristwatchwith retrograde date and “ofcer”-style hinged caseback with certifcate of origin

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1999

Reference No.

5059G-015

Movement No.

1’958’000

Case No.

4’066’560

Material

18K white gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 315 S-QR, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 Σ€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming
its sale by Bartorelli Gioielli in Fabriano, Italy on December 18th,
1999, product literature, leather wallet, numbered envelope,
inner box, and outer box. Further accompanied by Patek Philippe
Extract from the Archive indicating production of this timepiecein 1999 and its subsequent sale on October 22nd, 1999.

The reference 5950 was introduced in 1998 to replace
the previous reference 5050, the frst serially produced
perpetual calendar with a retrograde date by Patek
Philippe. Discontinued in 2006, it was produced in all
four precious metals and is particularly noteworthy for
its “ofcer”-style hinged caseback and elongated lugs
with screwed pins. Though the case diameter measures
36 millimeters, the shape and size of the lugs, as well as
the thickness of the case and its domed bezel, give the5059 a signifcant presence on the wrist. Cased in whitegold, it is particularly elegant and sublime, even more
so given the stark white dial contrasted with the painted
black Roman numerals. As it was originally sold in Italy,
the day and month are featured in Italian – a rarity forthe reference.
The reference 5050 and 5950 share the sophisticated,
self-winding caliber 315 S-QR with its striking 21K gold
rotor, based on the caliber 315 SC featuring centerseconds only. A robust and state-of-the-art in-house
movement, it features an intriguing retrograding datecomplication as part of its perpetual calendar function.
At the end of each month, the date hand automaticallyfies back to its original starting point – a very difcult
function to reliably implement in watchmaking.
Presented in remarkable overall condition with all of
its original boxes, papers, and certifcate of origin, thisreference 5059 in 18K white gold is an elegant andversatile watch suitable for any occasion.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5059G

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When style goes hand in hand

Assuming your nuptials don’t entail either morning dress or blacktie – and, let’s be truthful, the former in particular is likely tomean your big day is partly kitted out by local hire shops – thenthe plethora of choice you have here is generous. Silks, satins,
linens, velvets, wools, worsteds, tweeds – all are amongst yoursartorial arsenal.
With jackets, navy is – as always – a great utility player, and will
likely give you a defned silhouette assuming lighter backgrounds
and surrounds prevail (ofen the case in a wedding venue). Thatsaid, lighter tones have an appropriately buoyant and congenial
tone to them, and as such complement the kind of socks, ties
and squares in pastel colours that are so ofen the smart choice
for wedding attire (although these can also be an opportunity tothrow in a gentle splash of chromatic famboyance).
Whatever your choices with suit or blazer/trousers combo,
it’s widely considered wise to opt for matte over shiny: lightrefection on a Summer’s day is not ideal, and not just in termsof the photos. With shoes, your wedding day is a time you arepermitted to leave your patent leather oxfords and derbys in thewardrobe, and consider brogues, semi-brogues and monkstraps
as well as suedes or exotic leathers. You may even be able tocarry of the sockless loafer approach: but beware of ultratraditional in-laws.
All in all, as with many other areas of life, calculated restraint
is the key.

Lots 92 to 101
Ofen, a groom is gifed a wristwatch by his bride on the occasionof his wedding, marking this momentous event in his life. It
will serve to remind the groom of his wedding day each time
he glances down at his wrist while providing a memento topass down through future generations. This tradition is seeinga resurgence as of late, with watches even replacing rings as
tokens of everlasting commitment. Whether it’s a gif froma loving bride, or a watch worn by the groom’s best man, thewatch selected for such an occasion should be timelessly elegant,memorable, and refect the sensibilities of the person who will
wear it. An Omega manually-wound chronograph wristwatch
from the 1930s balances sophistication and utility, and even
includes “something blue” on the telemeter scale, just like amore modern alternative - a classic, Catier Tortue monopusher
chronograph with blue dial graphics. A beautifully wroughtskeletonized Breguet tourbillon in 18 karat yellow gold (alsowith blued steel accents) makes a memorable companion for an
incredibly special day.

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10. Wedding

Mr Porter’s lookLot 93
Breguet. Tourbillon Squelette reference 3355,
18K yellow gold, circa 2005

Light grey is again the (rightful) default choice here, butwith a full suit made from pliable mohair and wool-blend
by British style experts Dunhill. The lightweight materialand silk-lined sleeves guarantee comfort until etiquetteallows you to place it on the back of your chair at thedinner table.
The Canali tie – thin (6cm), striped, knitted wool – is awittily subtle deviation from convention, especially when
paired with the printed wool and yak blend pocket squarefrom Anderson & Sheppard’s Cliford Street haberdasheryand Brioni’s D-frame tortoiseshell acetate and gunmetaltone sunglasses (the Italian brand’s eye-wear range is well
worth a closer look, incidentally).
No-nonsense, understated elegance with the fundamentals
brings the whole back down to earth: so a round of applauseto George Cleverley (for the full-grain leather penny loafers)
and Berluti (for a classic leather belt that would pair withthe vast majority of garments you own).

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Suit by Dunhill
Shirt by SALLE PRIVÉE
Tie by Canali
Pocket square by Anderson & Sheppard
Belt by Berluti
Sunglasses by Brioni
Loafers by George Cleverley

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The Rake’s lookLot 101
Patek Philippe. Calatrava reference 570 withchampagne dial, 18K white gold, circa 1964

Nothing shouts ‘Tasteful nuptials’ like pastel colours
mixed with light grey: and New & Lingwood’s pink tie(interlined with wool to boost drape and knot appearance)
co-operate beautifully with the same company’s ribbed
cotton socks in lavender - although you could expend
hours in their Jermyn Street emporium, playing withcolour combinations which will all work perfectly.
The three-piece suit here - a glorious triumvirate ofgarments proving that grey really deserves a betterpress - comes courtesy of Cifonelli: the Italian-sounding
but Paris-based brand whose exquisite signature rolled
sleeve-head technique once prompted Karl Lagerfeld tosurmise, “I could recognise a Cifonelli shoulder from a
distance of 100 meters.”
Antique brown capped-toe Cleverley’s steer things
further from staid convention, ably assisted by a silk
pocket square from Rubinacci – whose arty works in thisdepartment warrant serious investigation for those whotake clothing seriously.

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Suit by Cifonelli
Shirt by Turnbull & Asser
Tie by Emma Willis
Pocket square by Rubinacci
Socks by The London Sock Company
Shoes by Edward Green

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10. Wedding

92.

Rolex – A rare and pristine stainless steel chronograph wristwatch withbracelet, with guarantee, literature, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1998

Reference No.

16520

Case No.

A’306’558

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference
78390A, max length 170mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
X5

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$12,000-18,000€10,400-15,600
Accessories
Accompanied by original stamped guarantee paper, productliterature, leather wallet, hang tag, inner and outer box.

Rolex surprised the public at the 1988 Basel Fair byintroducing the frst self-winding chronograph model in its
history. The newly launched reference 16520 was poweredby a derivative of Zenith’s El Primero caliber, thoughsubstantially modifed by Rolex. It was the frst Daytona tobe equipped with a sapphire crystal and upgraded to a newlarger diameter of 40mm.

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The launch of the 16520 was an immediate success,resulting in unprecedented demand that would requireclients to have to wait as long as seven years to purchaseone. History would repeat itself in 2016 with theintroduction of the ceramic bezel Daytona reference
116500. This was quite in contrast to the initial lukewarm
response of the manually-wound Daytona, frst
introduced in 1963. Ease of use, accuracy, and a larger,
sportier look all added to the new automatic Daytona’s
desirability.
The present reference 16520, a so-called “A-series”
from between 1998 and 1999, has survived the past two
decades in “New Old Stock” untouched condition. It isofered complete with its original warranty, multiple
product literature booklets, hang tags, and both innerand outer boxes. The complete and immaculate state ofpreservation of this sought afer Zenith-based Daytona
is sure to be a collector’s delight.

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ROLEX
Ref. 16520 “New Old Stock”

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93.

Breguet – A fne and attractive yellow gold skeletonized tourbillon wristwatchwith presentation box

Manufacturer

BreguetYear

Circa 2005

Reference No.

3355

Movement No.

750

Case No.

2381

Model NameClassique Complications Tourbillon SqueletteMaterial

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 55B SQ1, 21 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Breguet crocodile strap

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Breguet buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 Σ€26,100-43,400
Accessories
With green leather Breguet presentation box, loupe, and outer
packaging.

On June 26, 1801, a momentous horological event occurred
when Abraham-Louis Breguet was issued a patent for his
tourbillon regulator. The history of time has always centeredon precision timing and watchmakers over the centuries
have developed means to combat the multitude of factors

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afecting it, including temperature and magnetism,
position and gravity. Breguet sought to minimize gravity’s
efects when he observed it greatly infuenced the delicate
workings of the heart of the watch, the escapement. The
tourbillon is a rotating cage within which the escapement
is mounted. As it rotates, the positional errors of the
movement are averaged out improving the overall precisionof the watch. While the patent was issued in 1801, it was not
until 1805 that commercialized examples became available,
and it has remained over the last 200 years very much thesame as when Breguet frst revealed it.
The tourbillon is one of the most sought afer complications
found on watches today, attractive both for the eleganceof its design and technical innovation. The present
skeletonized wristwatch is iconic Breguet with classic cleanlines. The watch has both form and function for it not only
tells time, but can also be considered a work of art. The
highly engraved skeletonized mechanical movement allows
for the tourbillon to shine through and be viewed fromall angles. The design is enhanced by the twenty second
arched counter at 6 o’clock, which is brilliantly read via
the three prong seconds hand attached to the one minutetourbillon cage. The watch makes a wonderful timepiece
for special events and is a lovely example of centuries old
crafsmanship and mechanical mastery.

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BREGUET
Ref. 3355 Tourbillon Squelette

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10. Wedding

94.

Rolex – An early, well preserved, and rare yellow gold dual time wristwatch withdate, no crown guards, riveted bracelet, punched papers and presentation box

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1964

Reference No.

1675

Movement No.

D82’843

Case No.

1’084’774

Model Name

GMT-Master

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K gold Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end links
stamped 80, max overall length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 8.78

Dimensions

39mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied with punched Rolex guarantee, Rolex green leather
presentation box, and hang tag.

Early examples of yellow gold reference 1675 GMT
Master are a rarity. The immediate successor to the frst
generation GMT-Master reference 6542, this timepiece
was used by pilots and aircraf personnel to keep track ofdiferent timezones during their travels. Designed as a tool
watch, the vast majority were accordingly made in steel.
Gold examples are therefore not only rare but provide adelightful element of famboyance and self-confdence forthe wearer.

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Rolex introduced the now iconic GMT-Master dual
time wristwatch in 1954, developed with Pan American
Airlines for both pilots and the jet-set. By 1959, Rolex
upgraded the model and introduced the new reference
1675, which now had crown guards to prevent damage
to the crown, and the fragile Bakelike bezel insert was
replaced with a more resilient metal insert. The gold
version of reference 1675, however, did not featurecrown guards for another few years, such as thepresent example.
This early and extremely attractive yellow gold GMTMaster, preserved in remarkable condition, is therefore
a rare transitional model. Featuring rare and earlyluminous leaf hands, the watch’s attractiveness isfurther enhanced by a vibrant grené dial with gold, cupshaped luminous hour markers referred to by collectors
as “bicchierini”. Ofered with its original punched papers
and presentation box, this hardly worn example retains
its crisp bevels and factory fnishing, with a dark brown
bezel giving it stunning wrist presence. Gold reference
1675s are already quite rare. Yet, examples in suchsuperb condition, without crown guards and completewith its original guarantee ofer not only wearability andstyle for the collector, but also enduring value.

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ROLEX
Ref. 1675 GMT-Master“No Crown Guard”

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95.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare, and attractive yellow gold chronographwristwatch with tachymeter scale

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1968

Reference No.

1463

Movement No.

869’227, movement further stamped “HOX”

Case No.

2’647’886

Model Name

“Tasti Tondi”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 13’’, 23 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

34.5mm diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$120,000-240,000€104,000-208,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the watch in 1968 and subsequent sale on June 12, 1968.

One can say that reference 1463 was Patek Philippe’s frst
sports chronograph designed for a modern society with anincreasing interest in outdoor activities. Designed with asecond inner case which shielded the movement against
magnetism, it was a robust watch suitable for industrial use
in scientifc and medical environments. Each featured a tensided screw-down caseback and playful rounded chronographpushers, known as “Tasti Tondi” in Italian.

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One of the last examples of the reference 1463 everproduced by Patek Philippe, therefore one of thelast chronograph-only watches produced by the
manufacture until the introduction of the reference 5070
in 1998, the present lot features a rare dial confguration
with tachymeter scale only and no railway minutedivisions. Featuring the raised, hard enamel print that
afcionados of vintage Patek Philippe watches adore,
the dial is stunning both for its immaculate conditionand clean design. The movement is stamped “HOX”,
indicating it was delivered to the American market.
Another example of a late 1463, only two case numbers
and movement numbers away from this particular
example, was sold by Phillips in 2016 and bears theretailer signature “Cartier” as it was sold at the Cartierboutique on 5th Avenue in Manhattan. That watch,bearing case number 2’647’885, bears the same
purchase date as the present lot – June 12th, 1968. The
last examples of the 1463, it seems, found themselvesin the hands of American collectors. The present lot ispreserved in superb overall condition, having developed
a pleasing patina on its case – an indication the watch
was hardly worn or handled, likely spending many years
stored untouched.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”

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96.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold limited edition rectangularwristwatch, made to commemorate the opening of Patek Philippe’s
watchmaking center in 1997, retailed by Tifany & Co.

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1997

Reference No.

5500R

Movement No.

1’858’550

Case No.

4’014’395

Model Name

PagodaMaterial

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 215, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

40mm length x 26mm width

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000 Σ€13,000-21,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin confrming
its sale at Tifany & Co., chronometer testing certifcate, aPatek Philippe Attestation confrming limited production,commemorative plaque with medallion, and hardcover booklet
discussing the 1997 commemorative timepieces. Further
accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming the production of this watch in rose gold, with an opaline
dial and 11 applied rose gold Roman numerals, as well as sale on
August 7th, 1997.

The creation of something new based on designs of thepast is a common occurence for special occasions in Patek
Philippe history, and the watches created to commemorate
the opening of their new manufacturing center in Plan-lesOuates, Geneva, in 1997, were especially well-received

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by collectors. Of these, seven were limited edition
rectangular-shaped timepieces: four reference 5500
in 18K pink gold, 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold,and platinum, and three reference 4900 – the morediminutive women’s size – in 18K pink gold, 18K whitegold, and 18K yellow gold. They were nicknamed“Pagoda” for the exaggerated curved lugs that extend
into a wide, fat base much like the architecture of a
traditional pagoda. Inextricable from Art Deco design,
which also drew on the history of art and architecture
in South and East Asia, the design for the 1997
“Pagoda” was based on the mid-century reference
2441. In production from 1948 until the mid-1950s,
the reference 2441 has been nicknamed the “Eifel
Tower” by collectors, though the Pagoda-style lugs arealmost identical in architecture to those of the so-called“Eifel Tower”. The top and bottom lugs are joined byan elegantly arched bridge, which terminates in large,
squared lugs. The vertical, rose gold Roman numerals
further accentuate the Art Deco design origins.
The reference 5500 in 18K rose gold was produced in
500 examples, with the dies and tools used to create
those examples being destroyed so that they can neveragain be reproduced. Ofered in wonderful conditionand complete with its original presentation box andliterature announcing the new series of watches, this isan exclusive and highly attractive modern limited edition
Patek Philippe watch for the connoisseur. Its desirability
is further enhanced by the prestigious Tifany & Co.
retailer signature found at 6 o’clock – making it the frst
of its kind to surface at auction.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5500R “Pagoda”

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97.

Rolex – A fne, extremely rare, and very early stainless steel and pink gold
chronograph wristwatch with salmon dial, tachymeter, and telemeter scales

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1939

Reference No.

3668

Case No.

47’948Model Name

Monoblocco

Material

Stainless steel and 18K pink gold

CalibreManual, Valjoux VZ, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$25,000-50,000€21,700-43,400

Literature
Similar versions of the reference 3668 can be seen in Pucci Papaleo
Editore, I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda, pp. 194 & 198, as well asJohn Goldberger, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pp. 85 & 94.

The term “barn fnd”, just like “New Old Stock” or “mint”, canofen be overused in the world of vintage watches. In the caseof the present watch, we indeed have a true “barn fnd”, orrather, a Goodwill fnd. Discovered in a bag of assorted watches
in a Goodwill store in July 2018, this reference 3668 survived
almost eighty years of existence to end up being discoveredby an astute connoisseur. Luckily, this watch was recognized
for its outstanding quality and is now being ofered publicly forthe frst time.

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Documented in literature, but rarely seen on the open
market, the reference 3668 is amongst Rolex’s earliest
Oyster chronographs – alongside the well-known and highly
coveted reference 3525. The 3668 difers from the 3525
with its unusual precious metal bezel, thus far documented
only in pink or yellow gold. The frst Oyster chronographs
were released in the late 1930s, when the Second World War
was ramping up in Europe, and they never attained much
popularity with the public. In fact, only about thirty examplesof the 3668 are believed to have been produced, making thisan incredibly rare and fascinating reference. Pucci Papaleo,
in his monolith publication I Cronograf Rolex – La Leggenda,
comments that this specifc type of reeded bezel, with circularand rectangular hour markers, is usually seen on the “Ovetto”
or “Bubbleback” type watches, such as the reference 3372.
The dial is much more familiar, closely resembling that of
the reference 3525, and combining both a tachymeter andtelemeter scale. The dial itself is a lovely rose color, almost
matching in hue to the pink gold bezel. The boldly printed
inner dial and numerals, coupled with the sharp blued steelhandset, make the dial both immensely charming and highly
legible.
Only a handful of reference 3668s have surfaced publicly inrecent history, and very few in as stunning original condition
as the present example. And to the best of our knowledge,
none have been discovered at a local thrif shop. The present
watch ofers the unique opportunity to own a truly fresh-tothe-market timepiece that adds a small link in the DNA chainof early Rolex Oyster chronograph history.

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ROLEX
Ref. 3668 “Monoblocco”

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98.

Omega – A highly attractive, oversized, and very rare stainless steel multi-scalechronograph wristwatch with two-tone silver dial, and luminous numerals and hands

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

1943

Reference No.

CK 2077

Movement No.

9’392’824

Case No.

10’123’440

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 33.3 CHRO, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel “beads-of-rice” bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel

Dimensions

38mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$50,000-100,000€43,400-86,900
Accessories
Accompanied by Omega Extract from the Archives confrming
production of this watch on November 29th, 1943, and its subsequentdelivery to South America.
Literature
For a similar Omega reference CK 2077 with caliber 33.3 CHRO andstainless steel case with downturned lugs, see John Goldberger’s
Omega Sportswatches, pp. 22-23

For many watch enthusiasts, their passion centers on thewatch movement with the rest being window dressing.
Whatever one’s preference may be, the movement is theliteral heart of the watch, and the driving force for precision
timekeeping. Many collectors have his or her defnitive
favorites, for reasons varying from the fnishing, complexity,

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simplicity, or accuracy. Movements are beautiful, andthere really is nothing quite like opening a watch to see themechanism within.
Omega’s manual-winding caliber 33.3 CHRO is an icon amongst
collectors. It was launched in 1933, originally as a monopusher
chronograph, however by the late 1930s, the brand redesigned
it, and used the movement in some of their fnest two pusher
chronographs. In 1937, the caliber was ftted into Omega’s frst
water resistant chronograph watch – the reference CK 2077,
a model that can be considered a turning point in the frm’s
history. The present timepiece is a wonderful, early example ofthese water-resistant chronographs. Featuring an oversized,
38.5mm diameter case with screw-down caseback, it must be
viewed as an early, multi-purpose tool watch with its multi-scaledial and robust, highly water resistant case construction. The
hands and numerals are luminous, allowing for legibility in lowlight conditions, and the dial features a pulsation, tachymeter,
and telemeter track.
The present CK 2077 stands apart due to its exceptional
condition in all aspects: case, dial, and movement. The sculpted,
downturned lugs are extremely thick, having never been neara polishing wheel, with the original factory fnishing present
throughout, as crisp as it lef the factory some 80 years ago.
The dial is absolutely charismatic, with a mirrored hour trackcontrasting beautifully with the still-vivid red, blue, and blackcolored scales. On top of it all, the highly oversized (for the time)case allows for these many elements to exist harmoniously on
the dial. This chronograph is ideal for the passionate collector
who values form and function as equal partners.

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OMEGA
Ref. CK 2077

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99.

Patek Philippe – A fne and rare platinum perpetual calendar split-seconds
chronograph wristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin, andadditional caseback

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1997

Reference No.

5004P

Movement No.

879’663

Case No.

4’034’169

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, cal. CHR 27-70Q, 28 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate$150,000-250,000 Σ O€130,000-217,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated January 31,
1998 and signed Garrard The Crown Jewellers, additional hardcaseback, hang tag and leather envelope. Further accompaniedwith Extract from the Archives confrming production of thepresent watch with Arabic numerals in 1997 and its subsequentsale on January 21st, 1998.

Patek Philippe’s reference 5004 is arguably one of
the brands most compelling timepieces produced.
Introduced in 1996, it is a direct descendent of the classic
perpetual calendar chronograph 3970, and before thatthe iconic reference 2499. Housed in a similar 36mm
diameter case as the reference 3970, the 5004 has athicker case due to the addition of not just a chronographmechanism, but a rattrapante function, or split-seconds
chronograph. Probably the most recognizable feature
to the timepiece is the oversized crown with the additionof the split-seconds mechanism and its Lemania based
movement. Considered a top collectable wristwatch
today, it is a model that has a strong modern appeal witha bold look and appearance on the wearer’s wrist.
The present example is well-preserved and accompanied
by its original certifcate of origin and additional hardcase back. The model today is discontinued however it
has achieved cult status amongst Patek Philippe purists
as it perfectly combines the brands signature design,
highest level of complication and uncompromising
approach to quality.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5004P

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10. Wedding

100.

Cartier – A fne and attractive white gold tonneau-shaped monopusher
chronograph wristwatch with certifcate and presentation box

Manufacturer

CartierYear

Circa 2010

Reference No.

W1525851

Case No.

No. 0031CE and 2396E

Material

18K white gold

CalibreManual, cal. 045MC, 22 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Cartier deployant clasp

Dimensions

43mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$8,000-14,000 Σ
€6,900-12,200
Accessories
With Cartier Certifcate dated August 30, 2010, red Cartierpresentation box, envelop, product literature and outer packaging.

One of the most emblematic and classic watch cases of theearly 20th century is the Tortue. Designed by Louis Cartierin 1912, the rounded tonneau-shaped case was elegant
and sophisticated and named “tortue à pattes” or “turtle
on legs” both for its similarity to the animal’s shape and

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symbolism of good fortune and longevity. Cartier has
long used the case since its introduction, and in 1998
they introduced their Cartier Privée Paris Collection(CPCP) Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph. The
collection sought to bring modern watches to collectors
who wanted a vintage look.
Available from 1998 until 2008, the collection was
based on their legendary designs that have made thebrand so famous and sought afer amongst collectors.
The frst monopoussoir, or monopusher, chronograph
was released by Cartier in 1928 and the modern edition
remains close to the original, but with a larger, more
contemporary case featuring the manual caliber 045MC,
interestingly co-developed by F. P. Journe, Denis
Flageollet and Vianney Halter. The case has a classic lookwith the single button chronograph operated throughthe crown giving the watch a clean, uncluttered appeal.
The present watch is a lovely example in excellent overall
condition and complete with its original certifcate andpresentation box. This is an opportunity for afcionados
of Cartier and early 20th century design to own and wear
a modern example of one of the brand’s most iconic
models.

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CARTIER“Monopusher Chronograph CPCP”

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10. Wedding

101.

Patek Philippe – A very fne, rare and elegant oversized white gold wristwatchwith sweep center seconds and champagne dial

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1964

Reference No.

570

Movement No.

711’219

Case No.

316’173

Model Name

Calatrava

Material

18K white gold

CalibreManual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

35.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$40,000-80,000€34,700-69,500
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in white gold in 1964
and its subsequent sale on June 3rd, 1964.

Ofcially introduced in 1932 and still in production today,
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is a true icon – a family of watches
considered by many as being amongst the most beautiful
time-only watches of all time. All Patek Philippe Calatrava
models are descendants of the frst Calatrava, the famedreference 96, which was incidentally the frst model tointroduce numbered references in 1932. Its elegant andproportional design, fat bezel, and slightly elongated lugs
commemorate the Bauhaus style of form following function,with no extraneous ornamentation or superfuous details.
For many, this frst Calatrava is considered the benchmark
for all dress watches produced since 1932.

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While the reference 96 was 31mm in diameter, the next
iteration of the Calatrava, the reference 570, increased
the case dimensions to a dramatic 35.5mm in diameter,
all while retaining the same design codes. With thediversity of dial confgurations and metals used for theseCalatravas, produced in yellow, white, and rose gold aswell as platinum and steel, rarity and condition are what
drives the collectability of these larger Calatrava models.
The present 570 possesses amongst the rarest of all dialconfgurations, with a raised enamel minute track, as wellas the sought afer sweeping center seconds. A gorgeous,satinated champagne-colored dial with a vibrant “soleil”pattern complements the sof lustre of the case andcontrasts beautifully with the raised enamel printing andwhite gold indexes.
This example is fresh-to-the-market, in a pristine state ofpreservation that so ofen eludes collectors, particularly intimepieces manufactured in precious metals. The original
factory brushed fnish is still crisply intact, with the fat
bezel still sharp at the edges. The two hallmarks under
the charismatic and thick lugs are well-defned and the lugholes equidistant. The present lot is an opportunity to own
a rare version of a benchmark reference of the twentiethcentury, which is preserved in wonderful condition.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 570 Calatrava

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11. Caribbean
Conquering St Barth’s in style

Picture a hybrid of the salubrious ambience of St.-Tropez and thelaid-back nonchalance of Caribbean lifestyle, and there you havethe irresistible vibe of Saint Barthelemy: an overseas collectivityof France, with an all-pervading Gallic feel to its glitz factor.
The island, equally beloved of the glitterati and high-powered
captains of industry (especially during the Christmas and New
Year period), has high-fashion credentials punctuated by thekind of brand names - Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, Chopard,
Bulgari – you’ll see dotted along the main town Gustavia’s major
thoroughfares: but there’s more to nailing this place style wise,
whether pursuing the wooden schooners at the West Indies
Regatta, waxing culinary at the Saint Barth Gourmet Festival or
simply hoping to be people-watched in a beach-side restaurant
containing Hollywood royalty and former Beatles or current Stones.
So what to wear when surrounded by such glitzy eclecticism?
Especially when the perennially couture-clad, the barefoot beachlovers and the jeans-wearing clubbers all mingle together looking
equally in situ? Pack several famboyant pairs of Vilebrequins, ora stack of lightweight natural fabrics such as linen and cotton?
Shouty, stand-out colours or gentle, earthy hues to contrast withthe primary glare of that distinctive red roof scape and the azure
beyond?
Our two style consultants, here, could not have diverged
more wildly.

Lots 102 to 111
The vibrant mish-mash of cultures over the past centuries,
coupled with a unique natural splendor, has transformed the
Caribbean into a much-coveted vacation destination. Locateddirectly above the Equator, the subtropical climate allows for very
little variation in temperature over the course of a year, making
the islands of the Caribbean sanctuaries for the chronicallyvitamin D defcient. Whether you choose to frequent the pinksands of the Bahamas, wander the streets of Old Havana in Cuba,or anchor your yacht in the turquoise waters near St. Barth’s,
the associated wristwatch should be adequately colorful andable to withstand a bit of heat and and lots of humidity. Somewatches, such as the Rolex GMT-Master have been beautifullytransformed by these elements, with its dial turning a deep anduniform shade of tobacco brown due to exposure to sunlight.
Other watches push the boundaries of horological innovationand in turn, are perfectly suited to an active tropical lifestyle, likethe Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept cased in Alacrite andtitanium.

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Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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11. Caribbean

Mr Porter’s lookLot 103
Rolex. Day-Date reference 18208 with malachite
dial, 18K yellow gold, circa 1994

There’s more than a touch of Hunter S. Thompson about
this wonderfully eye-hiking ensemble, thanks to an
ebullient version of the boxy camp-collar shirts that arethese days a staple for Prada – this one is printed with bold
foral graphics, and is exclusive to Mr Porter’s retro capsulewith the house – and the pink-tinted Berluti shades withwhich they harmonise so well.
Any smart dresser will build around those two statement
pieces with caution: hence Gucci’s excellent input here – apair of wide-leg pleated wool trousers that’d put the mostdedicated pacifst into Peaky Blinders mode, and the kindof belt that’ll last one a lifetime from Dries Van Noten (lookafer it, and watch that unique patina develop with wear),as well as sandals (or ‘Slides’) from Álvaro – a brand whose
rubber stamp means that they’ve been hand-made in a
specialist workshop in Florence.
Sensibly rooted sartorial derring-do: it’s the future…

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Shirt by Prada
Trousers by Gucci
Belt by Dries Van Noten
Sunglasses by Berluti
Shoes by Álvaro

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The Rake’s lookLot 109
Rolex. GMT-Master reference 1675 with“tropical” dial, stainless steel, circa 1965

Earthy hues dominate a look that’ll equip the wearer for
swanky nights out in the Gustavia district. Edward Sexton– a man who, with his late business partner Tommy Nutter,
injected rock and roll chic into Savile Row in the Sixties
and is still, in his mid-seventies, operating in an atelier in
Knightsbridge – provides the basics in the form of these
tobacco coloured, ‘Hollywood’ top-pleated linen trousers
and a simple-but-stunning beige linen safari shirt.
As per many of the other, comparatively louche, or casual
looks in this set of 12, Rubinacci’s structurally laissez-faire,
but sartorially dashing credo works perfectly in this doublebreasted cotton patch-pocketted jacket. Topping it of with
the ne plus ultra of appropriate hats in warmer climes, aPanama from Lock & Co and ebony brown ‘Lorenzo’ suedeloafers by Belsire.

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Jacket by Rubinacci
Shirt by Edward Sexton
Neck tie by Fumagalli 1891
Trousers by Edward Sexton
Socks by The London Sock Company
Loafers by Baudoin & Lange
Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith
Hat by Lock & Co

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11. Caribbean

102.

Omega – A fne, rare, and oversized stainless steel diver’s chronographwristwatch with date, 24-hour indicator, and unidirectional rotating bezel

Manufacturer

Omega

Year

Circa 1972

Reference No.

176.004

Movement No.

34’243’706

Model Name

Seamaster 120, “Big Blue”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 4040, 22 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Omega mesh bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Omega quick-release clasp,stamped 1247/237

Dimensions

Case length 52mm diameter, case height 17mm
diameter, case width 44mm diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$4,000-6,000 O€3,500-5,200

Literature
A similar reference 176.004 with bracelet is illustrated in John
Goldberger’s Omega Sportswatches, pp. 74-75.

When Jacques Cousteau and Émile Gagnan developed thefrst open circuit SCUBA tank in the mid-twentieth century,
they opened the door for growth within both commercial
and recreational diving. Alongside this new technology
arose the need for precision timepieces that were not only
waterproof, but also maintained integrity at depth anddecompression. Many watch brands sought to enter thefeld of dive tool watches, and Omega was no exception.
With the release of the frst Seamaster reference meant for
professional diving in 1957, Omega began a journey towards
technical precision and innovation for those willing to bravethe depths of the ocean.
In looking at the design of the watches Omega wasdeveloping in the early 1970s, it is apparent that the
Seamaster reference 176.004 “Big Blue” (named forthe obvious reasons that it is both large and blue) tookarchitectural cues from several references that were also
being introduced in the late 1960s and early 1970s thatechoed the futuristic ethos typical of the era such asorange hand of the so-called “PloProf” and the prototype
Seamaster 1000 and the oversized tonneau-shaped caseof the Flightmaster. It is, however, most similar to thereference 176.002 Speedmaster “Mark III”, frst introduced
in 1971. The case is mountainous, summited by a unidirectional rotating bezel, with vertical brushed fnishing
throughout.
Given the expensive price tag of these watches at the time
(reportedly 715 CHF), they were bought by those seriouslyinterested in using them for their intended purpose of
diving. Thus, it is difcult to fnd examples of the “Big Blue”
in unmolested condition with original parts, making thecurrent lot an incredible fnd for diving watch enthusiasts.

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OMEGA
Seamaster 120 “Big Blue”

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11. Caribbean

103.

Rolex – A very rare and highly attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch withmalachite hardstone dial and bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1994

Reference No.

18208, inside caseback stamped 18200

Movement No.

7’947’873

Case No.

W’935’645

Model Name

Day-Date

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 3155, 27 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold, deployant clasp stamped S9Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$20,000-40,000€17,400-34,700
Accessories
Accompanied by original Rolex punched guarantee, chronometer
certifcation book and receipt, leather wallet, product literature, hangtag, inner and outer box, and extra Oyster link.

From its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued
to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and power. Myriad
combinations were made possible by the variety of dials andcase materials, the array of bezel patterns and the diferent
bracelet assortments. Most Day-Dates were produced in 18K
yellow gold; however, the present example’s smooth bezel andriveted Oyster bracelet are a sleek and sporty departure fromthe classic futed bezel and President bracelet confguration –and not at all unwelcome. The true attraction of this Day-Date,aside from its superb original condition, is the vibrant dialmade of malachite.

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Malachite was frst known to be mined as early as
the Neolithic era, around 3,800 years ago, in an areaof limestone headland in Wales, Great Britain. Since
antiquity, malachite has been utilized in decorative arts
and adornments for its vivid green palette and spectacular
banded and swirled patterns. Malachite was even groundand used as paint pigments, most notably by Italian
Renaissance painter Pietro Perugino in his Natività locatedin the Church of Saint Francis in Montefalco, Peruggia.
This specifc malachite dial displays beautiful uniform
bands, made by slicing and polishing a larger banded massof malachite. Rolex must have been highly selective inchoosing the specifc slice of malachite, further afrming
their mastery of applying of such delicate natural materials
as watch dials. Typically, the most harmonious andattractive banded specimens of malachite are found inCentral African deposits.
Small accents such as the Spanish date wheel and gold
printing against the superb hardstone dial unite all theother attractive elements of this timepiece: the overall
incredible condition, uniformity and vibrancy of the dial,and presence of all the original accessories. Hardly worn andpreserved in stunning condition, it is certain to please thedemanding connoisseur.

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ROLEX
18208 Day-Date “Malachite”

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11. Caribbean

104.

Patek Philippe – A fne and rare white gold perpetual calendar chronographwristwatch with moon phase, certifcate of origin and ftted presentation box,
factory double sealed

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

Circa 2006

Reference No.

5970G-001

Movement No.

3’048’426

Case No.

4’382’769

Material

18K white gold

CalibreManual, cal. CH 27-70 Q, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe deployant strap

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000 Σ€69,500-104,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin, productliterature, leather wallet, factory box and seal, inner ftted
presentation box and outer box.

The reference 5970 inherited the mantle of Patek Philippe’s
fagship complication – the perpetual calendar chronograph– upon its introduction in 2004. At the time, it was thelatest in a long line of lauded wristwatches to feature thisspecifc complication, all of which have been beautifully
executed by Patek Philippe without a break for almost eight

decades. The production run of each serially-produced
perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch is as follows:reference 5970 (2004 – 2011), reference 3970 (1987 2004). reference 2499 (1949 - 1987), and reference 1518
(1940 - 1951). Each has its own devoted followers, highly
coveted and revered by collectors, and the 5970 is nodiferent. According to scholarship, the reference 5970
was the frst wristwatch designed and developed byThierry Stern upon his assumption of the leadership ofPatek Philippe.
The 5970 was available in all four precious metals,
with relatively standardized dial layouts, and was only
produced for seven short years, giving it the most limited
production run of any Patek Philippe perpetual calendar
chronograph. It was also the last to use the modifed
Lemania 2310, as the 5270 replaced the 5970 andfeatured an in-house movement. The case of the 5970
presents a signifcant increase in size, from 36mm in the3970 to a more modern 40mm, adding to its masculine
appeal. Both the white gold and pink gold variants were
only produced during the model’s frst three years.
The present example in 18K white gold cannot be
exceeded in terms of condition. It retains all of its original
accessories and is double sealed in its factory box – theclosest one can get to traveling back in time to 2006 andpurchasing it directly from the salon.

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

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PATEK
PHILIPPE
Maker
xxxxxxRef. 5970G“DoubleSealed”
Watch
xxxxxx

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11. Caribbean

105.

Rolex – A fne and very rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

1966

Reference No.

6238

Case No.

1’422’516

Model Name

“Pre-Daytona”

Material

14K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 72, 17 jewels, further stamped“ROW”

Bracelet/Strap

14K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet,
end links stamped 57, max overall length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

14K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
7205 and J5

Dimensions

36mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$50,000-80,000€43,400-69,500

The 1950s and 1960s were the golden age of 20th century
horology with many models produced that today are
considered iconic timepieces by watch collectors. The Rolex
Cosmograph Daytona has grown to mythic proportions andis surely one model that would appear on any list of great
watches and for good reason. These early tool watches
are as contemporary and modern now as they were 60
years ago. They have a strong masculine appeal, and theirlarge diameter cases ft comfortably on the wrist. While
the Daytona is the most discussed Rolex chronograph,it comes from a long line of sporty Rolex chronograph

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models extending back to the early 1930s. “Pre-Daytona”
chronographs like the reference 6238 are the immediate
predecessors of the reference 6239, the frst Daytona
chronograph.
Rolex’s reference 6238 is recognized both for its rarity,
attractiveness, and historical signifcance to the brand’s
history as it was the last model to feature a tachymeterscale on the dial, before it was moved to the bezel as
seen on all Daytona models made to the present day.
The present watch is a superlative example, especially
noteworthy for its 14K gold case and “ROW” export markfound on the movement, designating the watch’s export to
the United States. The watch is in lovely original condition
with thick lugs, a crisp smooth bezel, and completedwith its original and rare 14K gold riveted Rolex Oyster
bracelet. The silver dial radiates brilliantly with a brushed
sunburst fnish and luminous hour markers and hands thathave aged to a pleasing light yellowish hue. The reference
6238 is a sporty and classic chronograph wristwatch thatmarked the end of an era, but also paved the way for a newage. It is a chic and easily wearable timepiece with greatvalue for the enthusiast.

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ROLEX
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”

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11. Caribbean

106.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatchwith moon phases

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1978

Reference No.

3448

Movement No.

1’119’532

Case No.

332’880

Model Name

“Padellone”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 27-460 Q, 37 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

37mm diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, strap, and buckle signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000 Σ€69,500-104,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives
confrming production of the present watch in 1978 and its
subsequent sale on August 18th, 1980.
Literature
The reference 3448 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by
Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 288.

The groundbreaking reference 3448, launched in 1962, wasthe world’s frst self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch.
It replaced the earlier, manually-wound references 1526 and2497. Within beats the exquisite caliber 27-460 Q (“Q” forquantième), which built on Patek’s frst automatic caliber
12-600 AT introduced in 1953. Afer almost two decadesof 3448 production, it was replaced by the reference 3450
which featured a leap year indicator. A robust, full-rotor
automatic movement highly regarded by enthusiasts,
the caliber powering Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar
watches was replaced by the ultra-thin caliber 240 Q whenthe 3450 was discontinued and the reference 3940 was
introduced in the mid-1980s.
Nicknamed the “Padellone” by Italian collectors, thereference is adored for its oversized, 37.5 mm diameter casewith clean, angular lines and a symmetrical and balanced
dial. The way in which the wide bezel slopes dramaticallyoutwards from the dial, with jutting angular lugs, gives
the impression of a watch much larger than its actual casemeasurements. Later examples, such as the current lot,
would feature more uniform and modern printing for thesignature and date track.
The present lot is fresh-to-the-market and retains its
original hallmarks, including two small owl hallmarks on
the case back, indicating it was originally destined for the
French market. Fitted with Italian day and date calendar
wheels at 12 o’clock, it was likely a special order requested
for an Italian client living in France. Combining rarity,
timeless aesthetics, and highest quality watchmaking, the“Padellone” is one of Patek Philippe’s fnest creations, andthis well preserved example will certainly impress anyone
who has the chance to strap it on their wrist.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3448 “Padellone”

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107.

Patek Philippe – A very fne and rare pink gold wristwatch with 10 day power
reserve with certifcate of origin and presentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

2000

Reference No.

5100R-001

Movement No.

3’202’539

Case No.

4’098’686

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreManual, cal. 28-230 REC 10J PS IRM, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

46mm length x 34mm width

SignedCase, dial, movement, and strap signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000 Σ€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by letter of attestation from Patek Philippe,
Certifcate of Origin confrming sale from the Patek Philippe salon
in Paris in February of 2001, commemorative plaque, productliterature, and leather folder. Additionally accompanied by
Patek Philippe Extract of the Archives confrming productionof the present watch in 2000 and its subsequent sale on
January 10th, 2001.

To celebrate the manufacture’s entry into the third
millennium, Patek Philippe released several new references
to commemorate the dawn of a new age, including thepresent reference 5100. Other limited edition releases
included the time-only reference 5032 and the Star
Caliber 2000, a double-sided pocket watch with 21
total complications.

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Ofen watch brands draw on the past to remake thefuture, but few do so with quite the fnesse and excellenceof Patek Philippe. Brand values commited to precision,quality, and outstanding crafsmanship have gone a longway in making Patek Philippe watches some of the mostcoveted, and the reference 5100 is a standout example of
how a historic model positively infuenced the design of acontemporary release. The reference 2554, of which very
few were produced, was in production from 1952 until thelate 1960s and is commonly referred to as the “Manta Ray”
due to its dramatically fared sides resembling the large
pectoral fns of the gentle oceanic creature. The 5100 casedesign echoes the 2554, upgraded to a larger size with amore architectural case construction.
The reference 5100 is a manually wound, time-only piecewith a ten-day power reserve. In the year 2000, this was aremarkable achievement, as the typical power reserve formost watches is about 36 to 48 hours. The four beautifully
decorated bridges of the movement are visible throughthe sapphire crystal, which is furthermore chronometer
certifed.
Afer all the pieces were made – a strictly limited series
in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum - thetools to make the reference 5100’s case were destroyed,so that the watch can never be exactly recreated - making
it a truly a limited edition. Presented with all of its originalboxes, papers, and accessories, preserved in nearly
fawless condition, this beautiful reference 5100 is a rare,
fresh to the market celebration of a new beginning basedon timeless design cues of the past.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5100R

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108.

Vacheron Constantin – A very rare and exquisite white gold wristwatchwith date, unusual lugs and bracelet

Manufacturer

Vacheron Constantin

Year

1966

Reference No.

6950, inside case back stamped 6694

Movement No.

406’918

Case No.

587’615

Model Name

Chronomètre Royale

Material

18K white gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 12’’-1072, 29 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K white gold Vacheron Constantin bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

wing-shaped lugs that are instantly recognizable. The
reference 6694, when ftted on a bracelet, is considereda reference 6950.

18K white gold Vacheron Constantin folding
clasp

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000 O€13,000-21,700
Accessories
Accompanied by Vacheron Constantin Extract from the Archives
confrming the production of this timepiece in 1966.

Vacheron Constantin’s Chronomètre Royal is among the
frm’s best known and most sought afer model. Produced
in wristwatch form beginning in 1953, these models are
considered among the brand’s fnest watches of the era.
The Chronomètre Royal reference 6694 was introduced in
1962, and housed Vacheron Constantin’s frst automatic
caliber with chronometer certifcation – the caliber 1072,
featuring a chronometric balance and the rotor mounted
on ruby ball bearings. Collectors ofen refer to reference
6694 as “the Batman” due to its wide and dramatic

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The fnish throughout the bracelet and case is extremely
fne and a testament to Vacheron’s commitment tocrafsmanship and elegance. The brick-style bracelet istaut, showing this piece was hardly ever worn and wastreated with the utmost care by previous owners. The
fnely cross-hatched pattern on the case and bracelet is a
traditional Florentine technique, still used today in hautehorologie and haute joaillerie. Typically, it is done byhand with a hard-tipped tool (today, a diamond-tipped
hammer is used), repeatedly beaten into the metal
to achieve the directional texture visible throughout.
A series of parallel lines are engraved bidirectionally,giving the metal a matte, almost three-dimensional
appearance. The dial possesses a sofly radiating silver
sunburst appearance, with the Maltese Cross inset with adiamond below the 12 o’clock hour marker.
This rare and uncommon watch is presented with an
extract from Vacheron Constantin’s archives, andofered in superbly preserved condition that is especially
noteworthy afer leaving the manufacture over fve
decades ago.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 6950 Chronomètre Royale

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109.

Rolex – A very fne and highly attractive stainless steel dual time wristwatchwith “tropical” gilt lacquered dial, bracelet, and original guarantee

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1965

Reference No.

1675, inside caseback stamped 1675 and II.65

Movement No.

D57’662

Case No.

1’196’803

Model Name

GMT-Master, “Fuchsia Tropical”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels, further stamped“ROW”

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, end
links stamped 80, max length 210mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped
1.65

Dimensions

39.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$25,000-50,000€21,700-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by original punched guarantee, Rolex calendar for
1965 and 1966, Rolex GMT-Master product literature, Bucherer
product literature, original hang tag with serial number, inner andouter presentation box.

The Rolex GMT-Master’s fascinating history began withPan American Airways’ collaboration with Rolex to develop
a watch that would allow their pilots to simultaneously
keep track of time in two time zones. Reference 1675 wasintroduced in 1960 as the successor to the reference 6542
– the frst GMT-Master launched in 1954. The reference
1675 introduced crown guards and a bezel with a metallic
insert that was more robust than the 6542’s bakelite bezel,
notorious for its fragility even today among the collecting
community.

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The present example displays many of the desirable traitsof an early iteration of the reference 1675 GMT-Master:a small arrow tipped 24-hour hand, glossy lacquer dial,
and gilt printing. A subtle, yet noteworthy detail is the“ROW” stamp found on the automatic 1570 movement– an import code indicating the watch was imported to
the American market. Its case has never seen a polishingwheel, retaining all of its original factory fnished surfaces,
crisp edges, and bevels as the day it lef the factory morethan 5 decades ago. All these factors would lead thepresent example to be a remarkable fnd and a treasure
for any vintage Rolex sports watch collector. But thoseelements pale in comparison to the attractive qualities
taken on by this specifc wristwatch in the past ffy-three
years. The metallic insert has remained extremely vibrant,
but has changed color from red to a vivid and consistent
fuchsia highly prized by collectors, while the original blue
side has become lighter and extremely attractive – infact, it closely resembles Pantone’s “Refex Blue”, oneof the most popular colors designated by Pantone. The
impressiveness of the colors on the bezel is only exceededby the incredible and consistent milk chocolate browncolor developed by the dial, still maintaining its original
glossy lacquered surface but lightening from its original
black to a deep bronze. Thick luminous hour plots thathave aged to a pleasing light beige match the pale gold gilt
printing still visible on the dial.
Accompanied by a complete array of Rolex documentation
including its original punched guarantee, the magnetic
appeal of the present reference 1675 is sure to turn theheads of even the most casual of collectors.

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ROLEX
Ref. 1675 GMT-Master“Tropical Fuchsia”

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11. Caribbean

110.

Audemars Piguet – A rare and very fne limited edition oversized alacrite 602
and titanium semi-skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with dynamographe,
power reserve, and function selector

Manufacturer

Audemars Piguet

Year

2005

Reference No.

25980AI.OO.D003SU.01

Movement No.

543’747

Case No.

F31129Model NameRoyal Oak Concept Watch (CW1)Material

Alacrite and titanium

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 2896, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Kevlar Audemars Piguet strap

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp

Dimensions

44mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$90,000-120,000 Σ O€78,200-104,000

Similar to concept cars, concept wristwatches are ofenmodels built not only to demonstrate a brand’s technicalprowess and master crafsmanship, but also to bring newtechnical advances to a product line. A vision that frst
appears in research and development may in a few years
be a spring board for a viable concept that has long-termcommercial success. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept(CW1) was released in 2002 for the 30th anniversary of thelegendary Royal Oak model – an exploration on what thebrand believed the Royal Oak could look like in the future.
Originally launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s
frst stainless steel luxury sport watch with fully integrated
bracelet. Designed by famed Gerald Genta, the model
became an icon and fan favorite for its rugged, masculine,
and sporty aesthestic. Over the years, Audemars Piguet
expanded the series with the release of the Royal Oak
Ofshore in 1993.

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The Royal Oak Concept Watch’s case is made from Alacrite
602, an innovative and resilient alloy consisting of cobalt,
chrome, tungsten and traces of carbon, silicon and iron, withpurposes in the aerospace industry and medical applications.
To date, it appears that Alacrite was only used for thismodel, never again used for any other watch from any otherbrand. While the foundations of the Royal Oak are present,
the case’s angular and curved construction, along with its
movement’s aesthetic, were revolutionary, and ushered in
Audemars Piguet’s vision for 21st century watchmaking.
The movement, developed by AP’s complication specialists
at the time, Renaud et Papi, is constructed with titanium
plates and bridges and features a tourbillon seen throughthe semi-skeletonized dial. On the dial side, three indicators
standout for their interesting design and application. At the 12
o’clock position, Audemars Piguet added a “dynamographe”
to represent the quality of torque on the mainspring, and to
its right is a unique linear power reserve spanning the lengthof the dial from 1 o’clock to 5 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, a function
selection indicator showing the current function of thecrown: winding (R-remontoir), neutral (N-neutre) and setting(H-heures). Through the screw down push button below thecrown found on the case at 4 o’clock, the watch is set to thedesired function in order to wind or set the time.
The Royal Oak Concept is a remarkable statement piece – aunique and innovative timepiece that showcased both theboldness and technical expertise of Audemars Piguet at theturn of this last century. Completed with a Kevlar strap, thewatch has great presence on the wrist, and its case dazzles
with contrasting brushed, polished, and bead blasted surfaces.
Made in a limited edition of just 150 examples, the present lot
is an excellent opportunity for passionate collectors to own arare and unusual “concept” watch showcasing the horologicalmastery of a storied Swiss watchmaker.

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AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Concept

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111.

Patek Philippe – A rare and attractive platinum and diamond-set rectangularshaped wristwatch

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1953

Reference No.

2461

Movement No.

975’677

Case No.

674’397

Material

Platinum and diamond

CalibreManual, cal. 9’90, 18 jewels, further stamped

Bracelet/Strap

Patek Philippe alligator strap“HOX”
Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, and movement signed.

Estimate$15,000-25,000 Σ€13,000-21,700
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch with diamond hour markers in1953 and its subsequent sale on November 20th, 1956.

The mid-20th century was the golden age of classic
modern horology. Many iconic timepieces weredeveloped during the 1940s, 50s and 60s, and Patek
Philippe’s production included time only wristwatches
like the Calatrava reference 96 or Grand Calatrava
reference 570 [see lot 101], to complicated timepieces
such as the 1518 and its successor the 2499. Today,these gems are highly sought afer by connoisseurs
for their design, innovation and technical excellence.
The reference 2461 is an exemplary model from thisperiod. The time only watch was produced in yellow,
pink and white gold, and, rarely, in platinum. Produced
between 1950 and 1964, it was an updated version of
the reference 425, which measured 35mm in length,compared to the more substantial reference 2461
measuring 42mm in length. The case, manufactured
by Markowski for Patek Philippe, who is also known
for his later work on the Gilbert Albert designed cases,
has smooth clean lines, giving the watch a strongarchitectural feel. There is a lovely curve to the watch
when seen in profle and fts comfortably on the wrist.
The present watch is in lovely original condition,
retaining its strong lines. The dial has an eye-catching
look with the diamond-set dial, known as Heures
Brillantes (HB). It is a watch that is both classic andelegant and makes a fne statement for an evening out,
whether to the opera or at an outdoor restaurant in
the Caribbean.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2461

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12. Art Basel Miami
Mastering the art of measured quirkiness

There are certain occasions in a man’s life when he wishes toeschew, if only briefy, certain regular features of his ordinary
apparel: and lapelled jackets is just the start of it. Art Basel Miami– the annual art-fair-turned-bacchanalian mega-soiree, the 17thedition of which will hit Miami Beach this December – is mostemphatically one of those occasions.
A mixture of concerts, VIP events and star-studded evening bashes,
the event, which now attracts up to 80,000 revelers, has become,unofcially, as much a fashion showcase as it is an art fair: expect
vivid prints, festive colours, shoulders protruding from t-shirts andstatement jewellery aplenty, especially when the hottest ticket intown, for those who love online exposure, is the Instagram pages ofvarious random “Infuencers”.
Of course, there’s nothing worse than self-conscious eccentricity– and in an environment in which sequinned lederhosen would
barely draw a second look, when it comes to quirkiness, less is mostcertainly more.. As with another major shindig whose name contains
the word ‘Basel’ – this one actually held in that Swiss city – comfort isan imperative: this event is as wearing on the sole as it is warming to
the soul - while the warm-weather appropriate gear is the only sane
option (average temperatures in December are still in the early 20s).
Shorts are a staple for down time, but this is no beach-bonanza,
despite the coastal setting: so pack some gentle, measured
idiosyncrasy alongside your best Slim Aarons-photo regalia.

Lots 112 to 120
As with one’s attire, Art Basel is the perfect opportunity to deviate
from the norm with one’s wristwear, choosing something obscure,or even audacious, for this celebration of the arts. With fashes ofcolors hung on walls or draped on the bodies of attendees, dropletsof condensation on mint-garnished cocktail glasses, it’s wherecelebrities, artists, fashionistas, and socialites converge for one
weekend in December. For an event that is just as much about the
party as it is about the art, a little irreverence on the wrist does
not go amiss. Bold, unusual case shapes, and unconventional
complications dominate this selection: an oversized cushion-form
watch from the 1970s with stunning blue dial and integrated
bracelet from Patek Philippe, or an über rare Opus V masterpiecefrom Harry Winston in platinum with a three-dimensional satellite
hour display, that, with its retrograding minute hand, marks eachpassing hour as uniquely as the art pieces on display.

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Maker xxxxxx
Watch xxxxxx

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12. Art Basel Miami

Mr Porter’s lookLot 115
Patek Philippe. ‘Beta 21’ reference 3587/1, 18K
white gold, circa 1971

This ensemble testifes to the fact that there’s nothing
intrinsically formal – and certainly nothing ‘stufy’ – aboutwearing a suit. The Berluti two-piece shown here is madein Italy – where else? - from smooth herringbone wool,
its sofly tailored, minimal internal structure and double
vent working wonders for its silhouette.
The inherent informality on display is the result of a twopronged attack from Brunello Cucinelli (a plain white tee- not for the frst time, the reader is advised to stock up)
and the kind of trainers-for-grown-ups every man shouldhave at last a couple of pairs of, along with another greatlayering piece – a cotton-piqué shirt with cutaway collar
from Loro Piana.
Eye-catching, monochrome elegance is made a fait
accomplis by Bottega Veneta’s ‘Intrecciato’ briefcase
and Cutler & Gross’s glasses, which are designed to slim
down and defne rounder-shaped faces: insert your own
emaciated artist reference here…

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Jacket by Berluti
Shirt by Loro Piana
T-shirt by Berluti
Trousers by Berluti
Sneakers by Brunello Cucinelli
Wallet by Bottega Veneta

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The Rake’s lookLot 112
Vacheron Constantin. Mercator reference 43050
with polychrome cloisonné enamel dial, 18K
yellow gold, circa 1996

It’s astounding, in 2018, to think that riveted denim trousers were
invented to weather the toils of the gold rush and the Wild West:especially when you behold a pair of boardroom-friendly jeans suchas these from East London denim specialist Blackhorse Lane. Somesmart jeans are a must-own for the modern gent, and you could do
far worse than these.
Juxtaposing such a pair with the slim-ft, ‘Valstarino’ coatseen here (a style originally conceived in 1935 as a sporty reimagination of the traditional A-1 fight jacket) in brown deerskin
from Valstar is a casual-wear masterstroke, and the same
inconspicuously immaculate attitude continues with Anderson& Sheppard's collarless puppytooth cotton and cashmere shirt.
A stylish foundation is provided by the white trainers from
Grenson, before the look is then hiked into quirkier territory
by one of Anderson & Sheppard’s more outré haberdasheryoferings – their plum and cream ‘Ikat’ silk scarf – and David
Kind’s ‘Pine Roman’ sunglasses.

Jacket by Valstar
Shirt by Santillo 1970
Jeans by The Worker’s Club
Scarf by Anderson & Sheppard
Trainers by Grenson
Sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith

Artful, leffeld elegance nailed.

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112.

Vacheron Constantin – A very fne and rare yellow gold automatic wristwatchwith retrograde hours and minutes, polychrome cloisonné enamel “EuropaAsia” dial, with guarantee and presentation box

Manufacturer

Vacheron Constantin

Year

1996

Reference No.

43050

Movement No.

798’390

Case No.

673’846

Model Name

Mercator

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 1120/2, 36 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Vacheron Constantin double
deployant clasp

Dimensions
Signed36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, strap and clasp signed
by maker, dial further signed by enameller.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 Σ€17,400-26,100
Accessories
Accompanied by undated Vacheron Constantin International
Warranty, Certifcate of Authenticity, ftted wooden presentation
box, hang tag, loupe, product literature and outer packaging.

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Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator wristwatch pays
homage to Gerard Mercator, the 16th century GermanFlemish cartographer, geographer and cosmographer.
He was born in Antwerp in 1592 and became the mostwell-known cartographer of his time. He developed the
Mercator projection, a method still used today, which
rendered the confguration of the terrestrial globe on
to a fat surface and became the standard for nautical
purposes. He created a new world map in 1569 using thismethod and it was a marvel of contemporary geography.
Mercator was one of few scholars of the time that did
not travel widely, but rather most of his thought andskill were gained from his personal library of over 1000
maps and books, as well as correspondences with other
scholars, statesmen, travelers and seamen.
Vacheron Constantin’s uniquely designed Mercator
wristwatch was released in 1994 for the 400th
anniversary of the scholar’s death and pays homage
to him through its unique design. The retrograde hourand minute indicators resemble the legs of a handheld
compass, while the stunning cloisonné enamel dialof “Europa-Asia” is rendered based on his map andconfguration. The dial numbered 40 is the work ofmaster enamellers Lucie and Jean Genbrugge, and
it is believed that they produced 50 examples. In
exceptionally well-preserved, original condition, thisexample is ofered complete with original warranty andauthenticity certifcate, as well as presentation box.
The Mercator is a uniquely designed watch and ofers
collectors something beyond the ordinary.

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 43050 Mercator “Europe-Asia”

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113.

Rolex – A very fne, rare, and pristine chronograph wristwatch with“tropical” sub-registers, original guarantee, and presentation box

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1994

Reference No.

16520

Case No.

W’366’038

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreAutomatic, cal. 4030, 33 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, end links
stamped 503B, max length 220mm

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel deployant clasp stamped 78590

Dimensions

40mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate$30,000-50,000€26,100-43,400
Accessories
Accompanied by the original Rolex chronometer certifcate andguarantee indicating this watch was purchased on March 9th, 1998
in Memphis, Tennessee, along with an appraisal from the vendor
also dated March 9th, 1998. It is further accompanied by theoriginal product literature, hang tags, inner and outer boxes.
Literature
For another example of a reference 16520 Daytona with tropicalregisters, please see The Ultimate Daytona by Pucci Papaleo, pp.
556-559.

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Rolex thrilled the public at the 1988 Basel Fair by introducing
the frst self-winding chronograph model in its history. The
newly launched reference 16520 was powered by a derivativeof Zenith’s El Primero caliber, though substantially modifed by
Rolex. It was the frst Daytona to be equipped with a sapphire
crystal and featured a new, larger case incorporating crownguards for the frst time and measuring 39mm.
The launch of the 16520 was an immediate success, resulting
in unprecedented demand that would require clients to haveto wait as long as seven years to purchase one. This was quite
in contrast to the initial lukewarm response of the manuallywound Daytona, frst introduced in 1963.
As is the case with many other Rolex models, and part ofwhat makes collecting vintage Rolex so exciting, there aresubtle variations to the reference 16520 that can signifcantly
increase its collectability. The present example possesses oneof the most desirable traits, a pleasing aging to the sub-dials,
nicknamed “tropical”, seen only within a certain range of serial
numbers. It is believed to be the result of a production defect,with the paint not properly resisting the efects of the UV raysin sunlight and exposure to oxygen, therefore changing color.
This desirable defect is not present or possible in all reference
16520s, and are typically only found in black dial, stainlesssteel examples from between 1993 and 1996. An exceptional
example for the connoisseur, it remains in truly “new old
stock” condition, having never been worn and still retaining
the original stickers on the case and bracelet as delivered by
the factory. Furthermore, the present watch is fresh-to-themarket, consigned by the original owner.

26/10/18 10:15

ROLEX
Ref. 16520 “Tropical Full Set”

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12. Art Basel Miami

114.
Patek Philippe – A very rare andexceptional pink gold minute repeating
perpetual calendar wristwatch withcathedral gongs, moon phase, 24hour and leap year indications, withcertifcate of origin, additional caseback,and presentation box

Big, bold, and an aesthetic delight, the reference
5074 is one of the most important grand complication
timepieces made by Patek Philippe, and a watch sure
to attract all enthusiasts. The large 42mm diametercase with its wide, stepped bezel is reminiscent of
the brand’s modern chronograph timepiece, thereference 5070. It has a masculine aesthetic that isboth contemporary and sporty, and its oversizeddiameter is purely functional as it permits the use ofcathedral gongs for the minute repeating complication.
Furthermore incorporating a perpetual calendar withmoon phase, the cathedral gongs were created froma special alloy, and each wrap around the movement
one and three-quarter times. The resulting soundreverberates for an extended period of time, much likethe sound of bells being struck inside a cathedral.

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114.

Patek Philippe – A very rare and exceptional pink gold minute repeating
perpetual calendar wristwatch with cathedral gongs, moon phase, 24-hourand leap year indications, with certifcate of origin, additional caseback, andpresentation box

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

Circa 2012

Reference No.

5074R

Material

18K pink gold

CalibreAutomatic, cal. R27 Q, 39 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Alligator

Clasp/Buckle

18K pink gold Patek Philippe deployant clasp

Dimensions

42mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and clasp signed.

Estimate$250,000-500,000 Σ€217,000-434,000
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Certifcate of Origin dated March 14, 2012
signed by the Patek Philippe Salon, Geneva, 18K pink gold solid
caseback, 18K pink gold setting pin, hang tag, ftted wooden
presentation box, leather portfolio with glossy photograph,
product literature, and outer packaging.

Patek Philippe released the reference 5074 in yellow gold
in 2001, replacing it with the pink gold model in 2005,
and the platinum edition was introduced in 2009. It is a
21st century take on the grand watches of the mid-20th
century golden age of horology. The watch is a superb
blend of vintage and modern, with a large, moderncase design ftted with a classically styled dial inspiredby the brand’s iconic, historic perpetual calendars. The
charismatic case, housing the automatic caliber R 27 Q,
also features stylish nods to the past with its downturned
futed lugs that resemble those of the reference 2499.
In near new condition and fresh to the market from theoriginal owner, this reference 5074 is a collector’s dream.
Ofered complete with its original certifcate, literature,and presentation box, the present watch is an exceptional
example that delivers a breathtaking acoustic experience.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5074R

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115.

Patek Philippe – A very rare, fne, and oversized white gold cushion-shaped
electronic wristwatch with center seconds, date and bracelet

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1971

Reference No.

3587/1

Movement No.

5’834

Case No.

2’699’624

Model Name

Beta-21

Material

18K white gold

CalibreElectroquartz, cal. CEH Beta-21, 13 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K white gold Patek Philippe integrated meshbracelet, max overall length 200mm

Clasp/Buckle

18K white gold Patek Philippe clasp

Dimensions

43mm Width

SignedCase, dial, movement and clasp signed.

Estimate$25,000-35,000€21,700-30,400
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch with white gold bracelet in 1971
and its subsequent sale on July 30th, 1971.

The quartz crisis of the late 1960s and early 1970s brought
profound change to the Swiss watchmaking industry as
brands were forced to compete against low cost, batterypowered watches mass produced by Japanese brands.
With their greater accuracy driven by a quartz oscillator,
they had a serious negative impact on the entire Swiss
watchmaking industry. It’s well-known that Swiss brands
worked to reinvent their oferings and marketing eforts,
with Patek Philippe for example introducing the Nautilus
model in 1976 as a stainless steel luxury sports watch

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to attract new watch enthusiasts seeking high quality
timepieces with a more casual, relaxed appeal. Howeverin the formative years of quartz technology, Patek
Philippe along with other brands including Rolex, Omega
and Piaget, began to research quartz movements when
they joined together to form the Centre Electronique
Horloger (CEH) in 1962. Seeking to develop alternatives
to mechanical movements with greater accuracy, theCEH frst released the Beta-1 movement in 1966, with theground breaking Beta-21 movement following in 1969,
which delivered unprecedented accuracy of just fve
seconds deviation per month. The cooperating brands
agreed to produce 6000 Beta-21 movements that would
be shared amongst the group.
Patek Philippe’s reference 3587/1 was introduced in1969 at Basel as their frst quartz wristwatch. It was thelargest diameter, serially-produced wristwatch ever madeby Patek Philippe at the time, measuring an impressive
43mm in diameter. The watch is the synthesis of 1970s
modernity with an oversized cushion-shaped case andscrew-down case back that is opulent and glamorous.
The present example with integrated bracelet, weighing
almost 200g, is in excellent overall condition with ashimmering blue dial and luminous hour markers andhands that have all aged nicely over time. The 3587/1 is awatch that has a unique place in history, introduced at atime of great change in the world, from politics to fashion,setting out to counter threats to the world of hautehorlogerie. With scholarship suggesting only 18 examplesof the reference having been produced, it’s an exciting
watch for the collector of uncommon timepieces.

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PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3587/1 Beta-21

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116.

Patek Philippe – A rare and very fne yellow gold rectangular-shaped wristwatchwith fancy scrolled lugs

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1951

Reference No.

2471

Movement No.

741’152

Case No.

666’990

Model Name

“Ricciolino”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 9”90, 18 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

33mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial and, movement signed.

Estimate$20,000-30,000 O€17,400-26,100
Accessories
With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confrming
production of the present watch in 1951 and its subsequent sale on
August 8th, 1952.
Literature
For another example of the reference 2471 see Patek PhilippeMuseum, Patek Philippe Watches, Volume II, p. 219.

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The 1930s, 40s, and 50s were a productive artistic period
for Patek Philippe with rectangular and square-shaped
timepieces being de rigueur, and the brand released
numerous creative gentlemen’s watches. Their reference
2471 is a sensational example of the innovative casedesigns produced by the frm during the 20th century.
The large rectangular-shaped case is enhanced with
fared, triple scroll lugs at the ends, which are dramaticand distinctive, nicknamed the “Ricciolino” or “little ram’shead” by collectors. The case is by Markowski, who was
one of the fnest case makers in Geneva and known for
his expertise with unusual case designs, including otherreferences like the “Eifel Tower”, reference 2441 and“Banana”, reference 2442.
Released in 1950 and produced for only a short threeyear period, the reference is one of the rarest and largest
rectangular wristwatches produced by Patek Philippeat the time. Produced in both yellow and pink gold, thisexample is well-preserved and is only the 8th known
yellow gold example to be ofered at auction. Nearly sevendecades since its production, this watch feels and looks
impressive on the wrist with a bold and artistic appeal
that will draw passionate watch collectors to it. The watch
has the exuberance of post-World War II society and it is awatch that hits the mark for fantastic design.

26/10/18 10:17

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2471 “Ricciolino”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 317

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12. Art Basel Miami

117.

Patek Philippe – An impressive and very rare cushion-shaped yellow gold perpetualcalendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, Breguet numerals, certifcateof origin, presentation box, hang tag, and additional solid caseback

Manufacturer

Patek Philippe

Year

1994

Reference No.

5020

Movement No.

3’045’028

Case No.

2’956’098

Model Name“TV Screen”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 27-20 Q W, 24 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Crocodile

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Dimensions

36mm height x 37mm width

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$120,000-180,000 Σ O€104,000-156,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Certifcate of Origin confrming sale at the Patek
Philippe salon in Geneva on November 16th, 1994, service paperwork
from 2010, additional caseback, hangtag, setting pin, ftted box
and product literature. Additionally accompanied by Patek Philippe
Extract from the Archive confrming date of manufacture in 1994 andsale on November 16th, 1994.
Literature
The reference 5020 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by
Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 309.

Launched in 1994 and in production for only approximately 8
years, Patek Philippe’s reference 5020, also known as the “TV
Screen” due to its unusual cushion shape was an alternative
to the reference 3970 featuring the identical complications:perpetual calendar with leap year, 24 hour indicator andchronograph.

The reference 5020’s avant garde design and tastefulproportions sets it apart from other perpetual calendar
chronographs from Patek Philippe. However, its unusual caseshape elicited lukewarm reactions from clients, leading tovery low production numbers. It is believed that about 200
examples of reference 5020 were ever made, either in yellow,
pink, or white gold as well as in platinum. The cushion-form,
so-called “TV-shaped” case is much more reminiscent of theoversized tonneau cases of the 1970s, such as the famous
Beta 21. Patek Philippe also incorporated other classic
features such as Breguet numerals and hands, giving thereference 5020 a distinctively elegant look.
It took about 10 years for the market to regain appreciation forthe model: the purity of its mirror-fnished retro aesthetics,
generous size, and overall incredible rarity comparable to thethat of vintage references. With time, these factors rendered
the reference one of the most collectible and sought-aferperpetual calendar chronograph models made by the
manufacture. Less than fve examples cased in yellow gold,
such as the present example, have appeared on the publicmarket, according to scholarship. Having been originallypurchased at the Patek Philippe Boutique in Geneva, thepresent example was especially well cared for, having received
a factory service in 2010 and remaining sealed since then.
Appearing for the frst time at auction, it is furthermore
completed by all its original accessories including hangtag,
certifcate of origin, and additional caseback, making it an
exciting opportunity for the discerning collector.

STOCK PHOTO FOR INFORMATION.
NOT ACTUAL WATCH.

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 318

26/10/18 10:17

PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5020J “TV-Screen”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 319

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12. Art Basel Miami

118.

Hermès – A very rare and attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with “tropical” dial, unusual lugs and tachymeter andtelemeter scales

Manufacturer

HermèsYear

1935

Case No.

267’907

Model Name

“Tropical Bamboo Hat”

Material

Stainless steel

CalibreManual, cal. 14”, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Stainless steel buckle

Dimensions

35mm Diameter

SignedDial signed

Estimate$25,000-35,000€21,700-30,400

Hermès is an international brand revered for its quality
crafsmanship and attention to detail, a commitment they
have maintained since their founding in 1837, when Thierry
Hermès opened his frst harness shop in Paris serving

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 320

European nobles. Over the decades, the frm branchedout adding accessories and clothing, and today it isa multi-billion dollar corporation focusing on highest
quality leather goods, fashion, and luxury products. The
present chronograph wristwatch from the 1930s is an
exemplary example of the frm’s long-term commitment
to selling only the highest quality items.
This Swiss-made watch beautifully defnes the Art
Deco period with a synthesis of styles from Futurism to
Cubism. The innovative design has a breath of modernity
not typically seen in gentlemen’s wristwatches. The
timepiece is highlighted by the prominent cone-shaped
hinged lugs, while the black dial has gracefully aged
with a warm brown hue, which is complimented by thegold colored markers, tachymeter and telemeter scales.
The watch has been hardly worn and well-maintained
over the years, preserved in excellent condition, and awonderful example of a time period when design played
an important role in the everyday. The aesthetic iscertainly atypical, with an exuberent expressiviness thatmake it an exciting addition to any collection.

26/10/18 10:18

HERMÈS
“Tropical Bamboo Hat”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 321

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12. Art Basel Miami

119.

Harry Winston – A rare and unusual limited edition platinum wristwatch withthree dimensional satellite hour display, retrograde minutes, fve day power
reserve and day and night indication, and fve year service indicator

Manufacturer

Harry Winston

Year

Circa 2005

Case No.

017682, No. 25 of 45

Model Name

Opus V

Material

Platinum

CalibreManual, cal. ARCAP P-40 Opus V

Bracelet/Strap

Leather

Clasp/Buckle

Platinum Harry Winston buckle

Dimensions

50mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

Estimate$60,000-100,000€52,100-86,900
Accessories
With Harry Winston Opus V presentation box, original paperwork
and guarantee, product literature, and outer packaging

Harry Winston’s Opus collection was a revolutionary
collaborative efort between the famed brand andrenowned independent watchmakers to produce a seriesof limited edition, unique, and unusual complicatedtimepieces. The efort begin in 1998 when Harry Winston
hired Max Büsser as director of rare timepieces. He
sought to make cutting edge watches with some of thebrightest talents in the horological world that pushed the

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 322

limits of both the design and the mechanics of watches.
Launched in 2001, the frst in the series was the Opus 1
Chonomètre à Tourbillon in conjunction with F. P. Journe,
who was already well known for his work on creating
the world’s frst wristwatch to incorporate resonance tosynchronize two escapements. The series has continued
over the last 17 years with the most current model
available, the Opus 14, made with Franck Orny and Johnny
Girardin.
The Opus V was an impressive collaborative efort
developed with Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of the
independent brand, Urwerk. Its unusual yet mesmerizing
three dimensional time display features three rotating
and revolving cubes that indicate the hours, along witha retrograding minute scale. The watch has the DNA of
Urwerk with a bold and dynamic look and feel. The series
was extremely limited, produced in just 45 examples
in pink gold and 45 in platinum, like the present watch,
along with seven pieces in platinum set with rounddiamonds, and three examples in platinum set withbaguette diamonds, for a total of 100 timepieces. The
present example, Number 25, is preserved in outstanding
condition, having only been worn a handful of times. The
Opus V over the years has become amongst the mostsought afer watches in the Opus series, and this watch
provides the opportunity for collectors of independentwatchmakers a rare chance to own one.

26/10/18 10:18

HARRY WINSTON
Opus V

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 323

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12. Art Basel Miami

120.

Rolex – An important, very rare, and well-preserved yellow gold chronographwristwatch with champagne dial displaying small “Oyster” designation and“foating scripts”, accompanied by original boxes and guarantee

Manufacturer

Rolex

Year

Circa 1970

Reference No.

6263, inside caseback stamped 6238

Case No.

2’330’397

Model Name

Cosmograph Daytona, “Oyster-Split”

Material

18K yellow gold

CalibreManual, cal. 727, 17 jewels

Bracelet/Strap

18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet

Clasp/Buckle

18K yellow gold, stamped “DA” indicating
manufacture under Rolex license in Venezuela, max
length 210mm

Dimensions

37.5mm Diameter

SignedCase, dial, movement, bracelet signed.

Estimate$80,000-120,000€69,500-104,000
Accessories
Accompanied by original Rolex guarantee papers dated December
15th, 1975 by Joyería Roca Hermanos (now Joyeria Roca S.A.) in
Caracas, Venezuela, service papers from Rolex USA dated December
7th, 1981, product literature, wallet, inner and outer box.

6263s and 6265s produced per year, less than 50 examplesof reference 6262, and around approximately 100 precious
metal 6239s and 6241s probably produced that year, it islikely that these yellow gold cases were produced in one
single batch - of which the present lot is the earliest.
As demand for the Daytona has steadily risen over the pastfew decades, and scholarship has increased by leaps andbounds, these small details are sure to excite dedicatedand discerning collectors. Well-balanced, with a seamlessmelding of luxury and sport, the contrasting gold andblack design elements found on the present watch areenhanced by a gold Jubilee bracelet produced under licensein Venezuela with a special construction. Retailed by Joyería
Roca Hermanos in Venezuela, the watch further impresses
with its originality and completeness as it remains ftted
with its original Mark 1 pushers and is accompanied with its
original guarantee, product literature, and boxes.

Literature
A very similar example is illustrated in Pucci Papaleo Editions’ Ultimate
Rolex Daytona, pp. 368-371.

Fresh-to-the-market, this very early 18K yellow gold reference
6263 furthers our understanding of precious metal Rolex
Daytonas as we know them, and displays some fascinating
details. The reference 6263 with its screw-down pushers, wasintroduced alongside its metal bezel companion, the 6265, inapproximately 1969, replacing the short-lived reference 6240.
Though mostly cased in stainless steel, limited numbers weremade in gold, with the production of these precious metal
cases estimated to be around 100 per year for both references.
Rolex decided to obtain chronometer certifcation for all gold
Daytona models beginning in the early 1970s, and began
printing ‘Superlative Chronometer Ofcially Certifed’ on thedials, while some early examples retained the previously used
“3 liner” variation. One of the rarest variants is the present
example, with the dial displaying Superlative Chronometer
Ofcially Certifed foating beneath “Rolex Oyster” at 12
o’clock, giving way to its name “Oyster-Split”.
An exciting fnd, this particular watch is the earliest known
yellow gold 6263 with the SCOC indication on the dial.
Research shows that less than ten yellow gold Daytonas(a combination of 6239s, 6262s, 6263s, and 6265s) haveappeared publicly or in literature within the very specifc
serial number range that the present example belongs to – allaround the 2.33 million sequence. With approximately 100

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 324

26/10/18 10:19

ROLEX
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona“Oyster Split”

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 325

26/10/18 10:19

Index

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_Index.indd 326

Lot

Manufacturer

Reference Number

Model Name

16

AUDEMARS PIGUET

260301O.OO.D001IN.01

Royal Oak Ofshore “Juan Pablo Montoya”

68

AUDEMARS PIGUET

25854.TI.00.1150TIRoyal Oak Ofshore

110

AUDEMARS PIGUET

25980AI.OO.D003SU.01

Royal Oak Concept

35

AUDEMARS PIGUET

26210OI.OO.A109CR.01

Royal Oak Ofshore “LeBron James”

36

BLANCPAIN

57

BREGUET

3470

Equation of Time

93

BREGUET

3355

Tourbillon Squelette

11

BREITLING

765 CP

Co-Pilot “Raquel Welch”

23

BREITLING

806

Navitimer

45

BULOVA60

CARTIER

1734

Tank Americaine

100

CARTIERW152851“Monopusher Chronograph CPCP”

1

F.P. JOURNE

Chronomètre Souverain “Black Label”

42

F.P. JOURNE

Chronomètre à Résonance119

HARRY WINSTON

Opus V

118HERMÈS

15

HEUER

2446H

Autavia “Jochen Rindt”

31

HEUER

2447

Mareographe

85

HEUER

1133B

Monaco “Transitional”

4

IWC

377025Grand Complication

63

IWC

325

Portugieser

71

IWC

3705

Der Fliegerchronograph

29

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

E859

Memovox Polaris

55

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

149.6.07.S

Gyrotourbillon

43

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

E857

Deep Sea Alarm

90

MOVADO

95 704 568

Sub-Sea2

OMEGA

105.003-65

Speedmaster “Ed White”

102

OMEGA

176.004

Seamaster 120 “Big Blue”

75

OMEGA

145.012-67 SP

Speedmaster “Ultraman”

82

OMEGA

2913-3

Seamaster 300

48

OMEGA

2914-1

Railmaster

26

OMEGA

2915-2

Speedmaster “Broad Arrow”

38

OMEGA

2998-2

Speedmaster

98

OMEGA

CK 207762

OMEGA

OT 2398“Floral Cloisonné”

20

OMEGA

ST 165.024

Seamaster 300 “Military” “British Royal Army”

51

PATEK PHILIPPE

96

Calatrava “Breguet Numerals”

8

PATEK PHILIPPE

130

24

PATEK PHILIPPE

565

101

PATEK PHILIPPE

570

Calatrava

14

PATEK PHILIPPE

1463“Tasti Tondi”

95

PATEK PHILIPPE

1463“Tasti Tondi”

18

PATEK PHILIPPE

1579

Fify Fathoms

General Dwight D. Eisenhower“Tropical Bamboo Hat”

59

PATEK PHILIPPE

1589

111

PATEK PHILIPPE

2461

116

PATEK PHILIPPE

2471

80

PATEK PHILIPPE

2497“Ricciolino”

64

PATEK PHILIPPE

2526

79

PATEK PHILIPPE

2597

50

PATEK PHILIPPE

3445

106

PATEK PHILIPPE

3448

5

PATEK PHILIPPE

5070P

115

PATEK PHILIPPE

3587/1

Beta-2186

PATEK PHILIPPE

3700/1

Nautilus “Jumbo”

73

PATEK PHILIPPE

3710A

Historiques Cornes de Vaches

27

PATEK PHILIPPE

3712A

Nautilus

99

PATEK PHILIPPE

5004P

7

PATEK PHILIPPE

5016R

117

PATEK PHILIPPE

5020J“TV-Screen”

91

PATEK PHILIPPE

5059G

5059G

“Travel Time”“Padellone”

02/11/18 16:53

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_Index.indd 327

Lot

Manufacturer

Reference Number

Model Name

22

PATEK PHILIPPE

5065A

Aquanaut

65

PATEK PHILIPPE

5070G

88

PATEK PHILIPPE

5070J

114

PATEK PHILIPPE

5074R

58

PATEK PHILIPPE

5078P

107

PATEK PHILIPPE

5100R

44

PATEK PHILIPPE

5131G

37

PATEK PHILIPPE

5140P

69

PATEK PHILIPPE

5160J

54

PATEK PHILIPPE

5180G

Squelette

19

PATEK PHILIPPE

5396G

5396G “Tifany & Co.”96

PATEK PHILIPPE

5500R“Pagoda”

104

PATEK PHILIPPE

5970G

39

PATEK PHILIPPE

5970R

47

PATEK PHILIPPE

9

RICHARD MILLE

RM002-V2

49

ROLEX

1019

Milgauss

81

ROLEX

1019

Milgauss

78

ROLEX

1655

Explorer II “Ricciardi”

76

ROLEX

1665

Sea-Dweller “Patent Pending Double Red”

41

ROLEX

1675

GMT-Master

94

ROLEX

1675

GMT-Master “No Crown Guard”

109

ROLEX

1675

GMT-Master “Tropical Fuchsia”

12

ROLEX

1680

“Red” Submariner

61

ROLEX

1803

Day-Date “Green Stella”

40

ROLEX

3525

Oyster Chronograph

97

ROLEX

3668

“Monoblocco”

56

ROLEX

4768

“Dato-Compax”

66

ROLEX

5512

Submariner “4-Liner”

83

ROLEX

5512

Submariner

28

ROLEX

5513

Submariner “MilSub”

84

ROLEX

6236

Oyster Chronograph “Jean-Claude Killy”

17

ROLEX

6238

“Pre-Daytona”

105

ROLEX

6238

“Pre-Daytona”

13

ROLEX

6239

Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”

67

ROLEX

6239

Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”

6

ROLEX

6263

Cosmograph Daytona

33

ROLEX

6265

Cosmograph Daytona “Sigma Dial”

3

ROLEX

6263

Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”

120

ROLEX

6263

Cosmograph Daytona “Oyster Split”

32

ROLEX

6264

Cosmograph Daytona

89

ROLEX

6264

Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”

25

ROLEX

6265

Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical”

77

ROLEX

6538

Submariner “Four-Liner Big Crown”

10

ROLEX

6542

GMT-Master

30

ROLEX

6542

GMT-Master “Pussy Galore”

74

ROLEX

8171

“Padellone”

52

ROLEX

16018

Datejust “Chevrolet”

46

ROLEX

16520

Cosmograph Daytona “Floating Cosmograph”

92

ROLEX

16520

Cosmograph Daytona “New Old Stock”

113

ROLEX

16520

Cosmograph Daytona “Tropical Full Set”

21

ROLEX

16550

Explorer II “Cream Dial”

53

ROLEX

18026

Day-Date “Dégradé Blue”

103

ROLEX

18208

Day-Date “Malachite”

34

ROLEX

116598RBOW

Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”

70

TORNEK-RAYVILLE

TR-90072

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

5000H

87

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

6782“Turnograph”

108

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

6950

Chronomètre Royale

112

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

43050

Mercator “Europe-Asia”

5070J“Minute Repeater”
World Time

Single Button “Ofcier”

02/11/18 16:53

450 Park Avenue New York 10022
phillips.com +1 212 940 1200
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NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 328

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26/10/18 10:20

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 329

26/10/18 10:20

Guide for Prospective Buyers
Buying at Auction
The following pages are designed to ofer you information on how to buy at auction
at Phillips. Our staf will be happy to assist you.

Pre-Auction Viewing
Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists areavailable to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment.

Conditions of Sale
The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in thiscatalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as
they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer anddescribe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advisedthat Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller.

Electrical and Mechanical Lots
All lots with electrical and/or mechanical features are sold on the basis of theirdecorative value only and should not be assumed to be operative. It is essential
that, prior to any intended use, the electrical system is verifed and approved by aqualifed electrician.

Buyer’s Premium
Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on thehammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as partof the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to
and including $300,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above $300,000
up to and including $4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price
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1 Prior to Auction
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Pre-Sale Estimates
Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within
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However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates. Where“Estimate on Request” appears, please contact the specialist department for
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Pre-Sale Estimates in Pounds Sterling and Euros
Although the sale is conducted in US dollars, the pre-sale estimates in theauction catalogues may also be printed in pounds sterling and/or euros. Since theexchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date ofauction, you should treat estimates in pounds sterling or euros as a guide only.
Catalogue Entries
Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work ofart, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the workin art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance,
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works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of
condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry
does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as aconvenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing suchreports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to theestimated value of the property and the nature of the auction in which it is included.
While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staf are notprofessional restorers or trained conservators. We therefore encourage allprospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions andrecommend, particularly in the case of any lot of signifcant value, that you retain
your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s
condition prior to bidding. Any prospective buyer of photographs or prints should
always request a condition report because all such property is sold unframed,
unless otherwise indicated in the condition report. If a lot is sold framed, Phillips
accepts no liability for the condition of the frame. If we sell any lot unframed, we will
be pleased to refer the purchaser to a professional framer.

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Symbol Key
The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue.
O Guaranteed Property
Lots designated with the symbol O are the subject of a minimum price guarantee.
In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless ofthe outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. Thisguarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party.
♦ Third Party Guarantee
Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the fnancial
risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee.
Because the sums involved can be signifcant Phillips may choose to share theburden of that fnancial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk bycommitting in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot foran agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there
are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In
this way the third party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching theamount of the minimum price guarantee.
In return for underwriting or sharing this risk Phillips will usually compensate thethird party. The compensation may be in the form of a fxed fee or an amountcalculated by reference to the hammer price of the lot. If the third party guarantor
is the successful bidder Phillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to
the third party guarantor.

Disclosure of fnancial interest by third parties
Phillips requires third party guarantors to disclose their fnancial interest in the lot
to anyone whom they are advising. If you are contemplating bidding on a lot whichis the subject of a third party guarantee and you are being advised by someone or
if you have asked someone to bid on your behalf you should always ask them toconfrm whether or not they have a fnancial interest in the lot.
∆ Property in Which Phillips Has an Ownership Interest
Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an
economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.
No Reserve•Unless
indicated by a •, all lots in this catalogue are ofered subject to a reserve.
A reserve is the confdential value established between Phillips and the seller andbelow which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at apercentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate.
∑ Regulated Species
Lots with this symbol have been identifed at the time of cataloguing as containing
endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject torestrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export
as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers
and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale.

2 Bidding in the Sale
Bidding at Auction
Bids may be executed during the auction in person by paddle, by telephone, online
or prior to the sale in writing by absentee bid. Proof of identity in the form ofgovernment issued identifcation will be required, as will an original signature. We
may also require that you furnish us with a bank reference.

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Bidding in Person
To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction
begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a saleto allow sufcient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced
to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot
be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In
the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staf member immediately. At the end of theauction, please return your paddle to the registration desk.
Bidding by Telephone
If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of ourmulti-lingual staf members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours inadvance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least$1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent
to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid,
excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicable taxes, which we can execute on
your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone.
Online Bidding
If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online
live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital
saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet
Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to
install Adobe FlashPlayer. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and ‘Digital Saleroom’ andthen pre-register by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The frst time you register
you will be required to create an account; thereafer you will only need to registerfor each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of theauction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate
frewalls may cause difculties for online bidders.
Absentee Bids
If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone,
Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can befound at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confdential. Bids must
be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staf will attempt to execute an absentee
bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders.
Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the buyer’s premium and any applicabletaxes. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received atleast 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid
received will take precedence.
Employee Bidding
Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the auctioneer, may
bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve
when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee
bidding procedures.
Bidding Increments
Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up
to 10%, subject to the auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conformto the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment.
$50 to $1,000$1,000 to $2,000$2,000 to $3,000$3,000 to $5,000$5,000 to $10,000$10,000 to $20,000$20,000 to $30,000$30,000 to $50,000$50,000 to $100,000$100,000 to $200,000
above $200,000

by $50s
by $100s
by $200s
by $200s, 500, 800 (i.e., $4,200, 4,500, 4,800)
by $500s
by $1,000s
by $2,000s
by $2,000s, 5,000, 8,000
by $5,000s
by $10,000s
auctioneer’s discretion

The auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or
her own discretion.

3 The Auction
Conditions of Sale
As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship
Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. They may beamended by saleroom addendum or auctioneer’s announcement.
Interested Parties Announcement
In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest insuch lot, such as the benefciary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint ownerof the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will
make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the lot.
Consecutive and Responsive Bidding; No Reserve Lots
The auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of theseller. The auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of
the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot
is ofered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, theauctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate.
In the absence of a bid at that level, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at hisor her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding fromthat amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid,
be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amountof the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bidwhatsoever on a no reserve lot, the auctioneer may deem such lot unsold.
4 Afer the Auction
Payment
Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction
unless other arrangements are agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of thesale. Payment must be made in US dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US
bank or wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. It is our
corporate policy not to make or accept single or multiple payments in cash or cash
equivalents in excess of US$10,000.
Credit Cards
As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa and Mastercard
to pay for invoices of $50,000 or less.
Collection
It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be
released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips hasreceived full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by thebuyer. Promptly afer the auction, we will transfer all lots to our warehouse locatedat 29-09 37th Avenue in Long Island City, Queens, New York. All purchased lots
should be collected at this location during our regular weekday business hours. Asa courtesy to clients, we will upon request transfer purchased lots suitable for handcarry back to our premises at 450 Park Avenue, New York, New York for collection
within 30 days following the date of the auction. We will levy removal, interest,
storage and handling charges on uncollected lots.
Loss or Damage
Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to lots for a
maximum of seven days following the auction.
Transport and Shipping
As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only.
Alternatively, we will either provide packing, handling and shipping services orcoordinate with shipping agents in order to facilitate such services for property
purchased at Phillips. In the event that the property is collected in New York by
the buyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) for subsequenttransport out of state, Phillips may be required by law to collect New York sales
tax, regardless of the lot’s ultimate destination. Please refer to Paragraph 17 of theConditions of Sale for more information.
Export and Import Licenses
Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to makeindependent inquiries as to whether a license is required to export the property

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from the United States or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’ssole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any
necessary licenses or permits. The denial of any required license or permit or any
delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or
any delay in making full payment for the lot.
Regulated Species
Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile,ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespectiveof age, percentage or value, may require a license or certifcate prior to exportation
and additional licenses or certifcates upon importation to any foreign country.
Please note that the ability to obtain an export license or certifcate does not
ensure the ability to obtain an import license or certifcate in another country, andvice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government
regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole
responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licenses or certifcatesas well as any other required documentation. Please note that lots containing
potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to ourclients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots
containing protected or regulated species.
Privacy
Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect andprocess; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii)the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in
respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information
as required by applicable laws.
Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video
surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes.
Phillips’ auctions will be flmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ andthird party websites and applications.
Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g. phone andon-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring
purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with
our Privacy Policy.

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Conditions of Sale
The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set forth below govern therelationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips and sellers,on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale andAuthorship Warranty carefully before bidding.
1 Introduction
Each lot in this catalogue is ofered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditionsof Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms printed inother places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers, and (c)supplements to this catalogue or other written material posted by Phillips in thesaleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by theauctioneer prior to the auction.
By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid,by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these
Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty.
These Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty
contain all the terms on which Phillips and the seller contract with the buyer.
2 Phillips as Agent
Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue
or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in whichcase we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company afliated withPhillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, orPhillips or an afliated company may have a legal, benefcial or fnancial interest ina lot as a secured creditor or otherwise.
3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property
Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue(unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1
above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following
basis.
(a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on
information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does notcarry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge
this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations tosatisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding
the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express
statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports as is consistent with
our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided
to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally
accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express
statement is made.
(b) Each lot ofered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective
buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders(and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given thenature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the
lot prior to bidding and have satisfed themselves as to both the condition of the lot
and the accuracy of its description.
(c) Prospective buyers acknowledge that many lots are of an age and type whichmeans that they are not in perfect condition. As a courtesy to clients, Phillips may
prepare and provide condition reports to assist prospective buyers when they areinspecting lots. Catalogue descriptions and condition reports may make reference
to particular imperfections of a lot, but bidders should note that lots may haveother faults not expressly referred to in the catalogue or condition report. All
dimensions are approximate. Illustrations are for identifcation purposes only andcannot be used as precise indications of size or to convey full information as to theactual condition of lots.
(d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including
any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue,
condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation offact but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may
not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 333

revised from time to time by Phillips in our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor
any of our afliated companies shall be liable for any diference between the presale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale.
4 Bidding at Auction(a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or
participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding,
supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.
(b) As a convenience to bidders who cannot attend the auction in person, Phillips
may, if so instructed by the bidder, execute written absentee bids on a bidder’sbehalf. Absentee bidders are required to submit bids on the Absentee Bid Form, acopy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Bids
must be placed in the currency of the sale. The bidder must clearly indicate themaximum amount he or she intends to bid, excluding the buyer’s premium andany applicable sales or use taxes. The auctioneer will not accept an instruction to
execute an absentee bid which does not indicate such maximum bid. Our staf willattempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into accountthe reserve and other bidders. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours
in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received willtake precedence.
(c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the Telephone Bid Form,a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips.
Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least$1,000. Phillips reserves the right to require written confrmation of a successful
bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately afer such bid isaccepted by the auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on
the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
(d) Bidders may participate in an auction by bidding online through Phillips’s online
live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. To bid online,
bidders must register online at least 24 hours before the start of the auction.
Online bidding is subject to approval by Phillips’s bid department in our sole
discretion. As noted in Paragraph 3 above, Phillips encourages online bidders to
inspect prior to the auction any lot(s) on which they may bid, and condition reports
are available upon request. Bidding in a live auction can progress quickly. To
ensure that online bidders are not placed at a disadvantage when bidding against
bidders in the room or on the telephone, the procedure for placing bids throughPhillips’s online bidding platform is a one-step process. By clicking the bid buttonon the computer screen, a bidder submits a bid. Online bidders acknowledge andagree that bids so submitted are fnal and may not under any circumstances beamended or retracted. During a live auction, when bids other than online bids areplaced, they will be displayed on the online bidder’s computer screen as ‘foor’
bids. ‘Floor’ bids include bids made by the auctioneer to protect the reserve. In
the event that an online bid and a ‘foor’ or ‘phone’ bid are identical, the ‘foor’ bid
may take precedence at the auctioneer’s discretion. The next bidding increment
is shown for the convenience of online bidders in the bid button. The bidding
increment available to online bidders may vary from the next bid actually taken by
the auctioneer, as the auctioneer may deviate from Phillips’s standard increments
at any time at his or her discretion, but an online bidder may only place a bid in awhole bidding increment. Phillips’s bidding increments are published in the Guide
for Prospective Buyers.
(e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone oronline, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described
more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges unless it has
been explicitly agreed in writing with Phillips before the commencement of theauction that the bidder is acting as agent on behalf of an identifed third party
acceptable to Phillips and that we will only look to the principal for such payment.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on thetelephone or online, each prospective buyer represents and warrants that any
bids placed by such person, or on such person’s behalf, are not the product of any
collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are otherwise consistent withfederal and state antitrust law.

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(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided byPhillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care inundertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids
except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.
(h) Employees of Phillips and our afliated companies, including the auctioneer,
may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know
the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our
employee bidding procedures.
5 Conduct of the Auction(a) Unless otherwise indicated by the symbol •, each lot is ofered subject to a reserve,
which is the confdential minimum selling price agreed by Phillips with the seller. The
reserve will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate at the time of the auction.
(b) The auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any lot,
re-ofer a lot for sale (including afer the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes
there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems
reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any suchaction taken by the auctioneer. If any dispute arises afer the sale, our sale record
is conclusive. The auctioneer may accept bids made by a company afliated withPhillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot.
(c) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding at levels and inincrements he or she considers appropriate. In order to protect the reserve on
any lot, the auctioneer may place one or more bids on behalf of the seller up to
the reserve without indicating he or she is doing so, either by placing consecutive
bids or bids in response to other bidders. If a lot is ofered without reserve, unlessthere are already competing absentee bids, the auctioneer will generally open thebidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at thatlevel, the auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid isrecognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on
no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately
50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50%of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, theauctioneer may deem such lot unsold.
(d) The sale will be conducted in US dollars and payment is due in US dollars. For
the beneft of international clients, pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogue
may be shown in pounds sterling and/or euros and, if so, will refect approximate
exchange rates. Accordingly, estimates in pounds sterling or euros should betreated only as a guide. If a currency converter is operated during the sale, it isdone so as a courtesy to bidders, but Phillips accepts no responsibility for any
errors in currency conversion calculation.
(e) Subject to the auctioneer’s reasonable discretion, the highest bidder acceptedby the auctioneer will be the buyer and the striking of the hammer marks theacceptance of the highest bid and the conclusion of a contract for sale between theseller and the buyer. Risk and responsibility for the lot passes to the buyer as set
forth in Paragraph 7 below.
(f) If a lot is not sold, the auctioneer will announce that it has been “passed,”“withdrawn,” “returned to owner” or “bought-in.”(g) Any post-auction sale of lots ofered at auction shall incorporate these
Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty as if sold in the auction.
6 Purchase Price and Payment(a) The buyer agrees to pay us, in addition to the hammer price of the lot, thebuyer’s premium and any applicable sales tax (the “Purchase Price”). The buyer’s
premium is 25% of the hammer price up to and including $300,000, 20% of the
portion of the hammer price above $300,000 up to and including $4,000,000 and
12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above $4,000,000. Phillips reserves theright to pay from our compensation an introductory commission to one or more
third parties for assisting in the sale of property ofered and sold at auction.

(b) Sales tax, use tax and excise and other taxes are payable in accordance withapplicable law. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions ofSale are quoted exclusive of applicable taxes. Phillips will only accept valid resale

NY_WATCHES_DEC18_278-339.indd 334

certifcates from US dealers as proof of exemption from sales tax. All foreign buyers
should contact the Client Accounting Department about tax matters.
(c) Unless otherwise agreed, a buyer is required to pay for a purchased lot immediately
following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import licenseor other permit for such lot. Payments must be made by the invoiced party in US
dollars either by cash, check drawn on a US bank or wire transfer, as follows:(i) Phillips will accept payment in cash provided that the total amount paid in cash
or cash equivalents does not exceed US$10,000. Buyers paying in cash should
do so in person at our Client Accounting Desk at 450 Park Avenue during regular
weekday business hours.
(ii) Personal checks and banker’s drafs are accepted if drawn on a US bank andthe buyer provides to us acceptable government issued identifcation. Checks
and banker’s drafs should be made payable to “Phillips.” If payment is sent
by mail, please send the check or banker’s draf to the attention of the Client
Accounting Department at 450 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022 and make surethat the sale and lot number is written on the check. Checks or banker’s drafs
drawn by third parties will not be accepted.
(iii) Payment by wire transfer may be sent directly to Phillips. Bank transfer details:
Citibank
322 West 23rd Street, New York, NY 10011
SWIFT Code: CITIUS33
ABA Routing: 021 000 089
For the account of Phillips
Account no.: 58347736
Please reference the relevant sale and lot number.
(d) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa andMastercard to pay for invoices of $50,000 or less.
(e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase
Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to thebuyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identifcation has been
provided, and any earlier release does not afect the passing of title or the buyer’s
unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price.
7 Collection of Property(a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its
Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts
due to Phillips or any of our afliated companies, including any charges payablepursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfed such other terms
as we in our sole discretion shall require, including completing any anti-money
laundering or anti-terrorism fnancing checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfed allof the foregoing conditions, he or she should contact our Shipping Department at+1 212 940 1372 or +1 212 940 1373 to arrange for collection of purchased property.
(b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of thedate of the auction. Afer the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased
lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) thedate of collection or (ii) seven days afer the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk
passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot
up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for loss
or damage to property.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots forhand-carry only. We will, at the buyer’s expense, either provide packing, handling,
insurance and shipping services or coordinate with shipping agents instructed by
the buyer in order to facilitate such services for property bought at Phillips. Any such
instruction, whether or not made at our recommendation, is entirely at the buyer’s risk
and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or
shippers. Third party shippers should contact us by telephone at +1 212 940 1376 or by fax
at +1 212 924 6477 at least 24 hours in advance of collection in order to schedule pickup.

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(d) Phillips will require presentation of government issued identifcation prior torelease of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative.
8 Failure to Collect Purchases(a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30
days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of $10 per day for each
uncollected lot. Additional charges may apply to oversized lots. We will not releasepurchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full.
(b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction,
the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item byauction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonablediscretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges
and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or ourafliated companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by thebuyer within two years of the original auction.
9 Remedies for Non-Payment(a) Without prejudice to any rights the seller may have, if the buyer without prioragreement fails to make payment of the Purchase Price for a lot in cleared funds
within seven days of the auction, Phillips may in our sole discretion exercise one ormore of the following remedies: (i) store the lot at Phillips’s premises or elsewhereat the buyer’s sole risk and expense at the same rates as set forth in Paragraph
8 (a) above; (ii) cancel the sale of the lot, retaining any partial payment of thePurchase Price as liquidated damages; (iii) reject future bids from the buyer orrender such bids subject to payment of a deposit; (iv) charge interest at 12% perannum from the date payment became due until the date the Purchase Price isreceived in cleared funds; (v) subject to notifcation of the buyer, exercise a lienover any of the buyer’s property which is in the possession of Phillips and instruct
our afliated companies to exercise a lien over any of the buyer’s property which isin their possession and, in each case, no earlier than 30 days from the date of such
notice, arrange the sale of such property and apply the proceeds to the amountowed to Phillips or any of our afliated companies afer the deduction from saleproceeds of our standard vendor’s commission and all sale-related expenses; (vi)resell the lot by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips
reasonable discretion, it being understood that in the event such resale is for lessthan the original hammer price and buyer’s premium for that lot, the buyer willremain liable for the shortfall together with all costs incurred in such resale; (vii)commence legal proceedings to recover the hammer price and buyer’s premiumfor that lot, together with interest and the costs of such proceedings; (viii) setof the outstanding amount remaining unpaid by the buyer against any amounts
which we or any of our afliated companies may owe the buyer in any othertransactions; (ix) release the name and address of the buyer to the seller to enable
the seller to commence legal proceedings to recover the amounts due and legal
costs or (x) take such other action as we deem necessary or appropriate.
(b) As security to us for full payment by the buyer of all outstanding amounts due
to Phillips and our afliated companies, Phillips retains, and the buyer grants
to us, a security interest in each lot purchased at auction by the buyer and inany other property or money of the buyer in, or coming into, our possession or
the possession of one of our afliated companies. We may apply such money ordeal with such property as the Uniform Commercial Code or other applicable law
permits a secured creditor to do. In the event that we exercise a lien over property
in our possession because the buyer is in default to one of our afliated companies,
we will so notify the buyer. Our security interest in any individual lot will terminate
upon actual delivery of the lot to the buyer or the buyer’s agent.
(c) In the event the buyer is in default of payment to any of our afliated companies,
the buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips to pledge the buyer’s property in ourpossession by actual or constructive delivery to our afliated company as security
for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if thebuyer’s property has been delivered to an afliated company by way of pledge.
10 Rescission by Phillips
Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without noticeto the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s
representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim

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is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips’s election to rescind the sale, thebuyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase
Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shallconstitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller
with respect to such rescinded sale.
11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licenses and Permits
Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make theirown inquiries as to whether a license is required to export a lot from the US or toimport it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries
prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material,
such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros hornor tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to
bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize
themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned.
It is solely the buyer’s responsibility to comply with these laws and to obtain any
necessary export, import and endangered species licenses or permits. Failure toobtain a license or permit or delay in so doing will not justify the cancellation of
the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot. As a courtesy to clients,
Phillips has marked in the catalogue lots containing potentially regulated plant or
animal material, but we do not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots
containing protected or regulated species.
12 Privacy(a) You acknowledge and understand that we may process your personal data(including potentially special category data) in accordance with our privacy policy
from time to time as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing
dataprotection@phillips.com.
(b) Our privacy policy sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collectand process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data(including for example the provision of auction, private sale and related services;the performance and enforcement of these terms and conditions; the carryingout of identity and credit checks; keeping you informed about upcoming auctions,exhibitions and special events; and generally where reasonably necessary in the
management and operation of our business); (iii) the lawful bases on which we relyin undertaking our processing of your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect ofour processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as requiredby applicable laws.
(c) Phillips premises and sale and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video
surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes
and will be flmed during the auction for simultaneous live broadcast on ourand third party websites and applications. By remaining in these areas, you
acknowledge that you may be photographed, flmed and recorded and grant yourpermission for your likeness and voice to be included in such recordings. If you do
not wish to be photographed or flmed or appear in such recordings, please speak
to a member of Phillips staf.
Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g.
telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service andbid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it inaccordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com.
13 Limitation of Liability(a) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips, our afliatedcompanies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall belimited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot.
(b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 13, none of Phillips, any of ourafliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions, whether
orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or anyof our afliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respectof acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of ourafliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any othermatter relating to the sale of any lot.

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(c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including
any warranty of satisfactory quality and ftness for purpose, are specifcally
excluded by Phillips, our afliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent
permitted by law.
(d) Subject to subparagraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our afliatedcompanies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond
the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in subparagraph (a) above, whether
such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental orconsequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest
extent permitted by law.
(e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit theliability of Phillips or any of our afliated companies to the buyer in respect of any
fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or
personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions.
14 CopyrightThe copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for
Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain
at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be usedby the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and theseller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any
copyright or other reproduction rights in it.
15 General(a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in
Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement
between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein andsupersede all prior and contemporaneous written, oral or implied understandings,
representations and agreements.
(b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department incharge of the sale, quoting the reference number specifed at the beginning of thesale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notifed bythem in writing to Phillips.
(c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without ourprior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns andrepresentatives.
(d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or
unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force
and efect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any rightor remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof inwhole or in part.
16 Law and Jurisdiction(a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Saleand Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related toany of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with lawsof the State of New York, excluding its conficts of law rules.
(b) Phillips, all bidders and all sellers agree to the exclusive jurisdiction of the (i)state courts of the State of New York located in New York City and (ii) the federal
courts for the Southern and Eastern Districts of New York to settle all disputes
arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these
Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply.
(c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any otherdocuments in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission,
personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by New Yorklaw or the law of the place of service, at the last address of the bidder or seller
known to Phillips.

(b) If the point of delivery or transfer of possession for any purchased lot to thebuyer or the buyer’s designee (including any private carrier) occurs in New York,then the sale is subject to New York sales tax at the existing rate of 8.875%.
(c) If the buyer arranges shipping for any purchased lot in New York by a common
carrier (such as the United States Postal Service, United Parcel Service, or FedEx)that does not operate under a private agreement or contract with negotiatedterms to be delivered to an out of state destination, then the sale is not subject to
New York sales tax.

Authorship Warranty
Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described inheadings in bold or CAPITALIZED type for a period of fve years from date of sale byPhillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below.
(a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e.,
the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does notextend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipientsby way of gif from the original buyer, heirs, successors, benefciaries and assigns;(ii) property where the description in the catalogue states that there is a confict
of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of
authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinionsof specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating
is proved inaccurate by means of scientifc methods or tests not generally accepted
for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time
deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable
opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot or (v) property where
there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as
described in the heading of the catalogue entry.
(b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right,
as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer
to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognizedexperts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert
report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at
our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty,
we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts
commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us.
(c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may
bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has
notifed Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information whichcauses the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction inwhich the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue andthe reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer
returns the lot to Phillips to the saleroom in which it was purchased in the same
condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable
title in the lot free from any third party claim arising afer the date of the auction.
Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in thissubparagraph (c) or subparagraph (b) above.
(d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of
the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original
Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourseof the buyer against Phillips, any of our afliated companies and the seller and isin lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means thatnone of Phillips, any of our afliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss
or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty,
whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental
or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.

17 Sales Tax(a) Unless the buyer has delivered a valid certifcate evidencing exemption fromtax, the buyer shall pay applicable sales tax on any lot picked up or delivered
anywhere in the United States.

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Sale Information

Sale information
New York, 5 December 2018
Auction & Viewing Location
450 Park Avenue
New York
Auction5 December 2018, 6pm
Viewing
Friday November 30, 10am-6pm
Saturday December 1, 10am-6pm
Sunday December 2, 12pm-6pm
Monday December 3, 10am-6pm
Tuesday December 4, 10am-6pm
Wednesday December 5, 10am-2pm
Sale Designation
When sending in written bids
or making enquiries pleaserefer to this sale as NY080118 or
STYLED. Timeless Watches
Absentee and Telephone Bids
Tel +1 212 940 1228
Fax +1 212 940 1749
bidsnewyork@phillips.com

GenevaSenior Consultant
Aurel Bacs +41 22 317 8188
abacs@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Senior Consultant
Livia Russo +41 22 317 8188
lrusso@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Executive Assistant toSenior Consultants
Clara Kessi +41 22 317 8188
ckessi@phillipsbacsrusso.com
Head of Sale & Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi +41 22 317 8189
aghotbi@phillips.com
Specialist
Tifany To +41 22 317 96 63
tto@phillips.com
Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli+41 22 317 8182
vliatard@phillips.com
Specialist & Head of Digital Strategy
Arthur Touchot +41 22 317 96 62
atouchot@phillips.com

Watch Department
New York
Head of Americas
International Strategy Advisor
Paul Boutros +1 212 940 1293
pboutros@phillips.com
Senior International Specialist
Doug Escribano +1 212 940 1382
describano@phillips.com
Business Development Manager
Manon Bega +1 212 940 1274
mbega@phillips.com
Cataloguer, Associate Specialist
Isabella Proia+1 212 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com
Administrator
Daniella Rosa +1 212 940 1395
drosa@phillips.com

Specialist & Business
Development Associate
Marcello de Marco +41 22 317 81 81
mdemarco@phillips.com
Regional Director, Business
Development Director
Nathalie Monbaron +41 22 317 8183
nmonbaron@phillips.com

Hong Kong
Head of Watches, Asia
Thomas Perazzi+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com
Specialist, Business
Development Director
Jill Chen +852 2318 2033
jchen@phillips.com
Specialist
Zi Yong Ho +852 2318 2032
zho@phillips.com

Client Accounts
clientaccountswatches@phillips.com
Shipping
shippingwatches@phillips.com
Photography
David Brinn Williams Photography

Associate Specialist, Cataloguer
Stasia Mui+852 2318 2035
smui@phillips.com
Cataloguer
Kenneth Chan
+852 2318 2045
kchan@phillips.com
Administrator
Jacky Lam +852 2318 2031
jackylam@phillips.com
LondonInternational Specialist
James Marks +44 20 7901 7916
jmarks@phillips.com
ParisInternational Business
Development Director
Pansy Ku +33 1 53 71 77 89
pku@phillips.com

Business Development Manager
Diana Ortega +41 22 317 8187
dortega@phillips.com

Tokyo
Senior Specialist Consultant
Genki Sakamoto +81 3 6273 4818
gsakamoto@phillips.com

Administrator
Alexia Bénard +41 22 317 9667
abenard@phillips.com

Senior Consultant
Kaz Fujimoto +81 3 6273 4818
kfujimoto@phillips.com

Shipping & Ofce Coordinator
Alban Aubertin +41 22 317 96 60
aaubertin@phillips.com

TaiwanSenior Specialist
Cindy Yen +886 963 135 449
cyen@phillips.com

Watchmaker, Technical Support
Nicolas Commergnat
info@alliance-geneve.com

Catalogues
apokora@phillips.com
Catalogues $50/50 CHF/£35

Consultant
Zachary Lu +852 2318 2034
zlu@phillips.com

WIMBLEDON
View of Wimbledon, outside Centre Court.
Photograph by Bettmann/Getty Images
GOODWOOD
Start line of the Kinrara Trophy race at the
Goodwood Revival Meeting, September 2018.
Photograph by Jayson Fong. Courtesy ofGoodwood
SAFARI
Tourist on safari in Kenya, 1989. Photographby by Michel Huet/Gamma-Rapho via Getty
ImagesPOSITANO
Amalf, on the Sorrento Peninsula, Italy, 1984.
Photograph by Slim Aarons/Getty Images
BUSINESS
A view of Wall Street and Federal Hall in the
Financial District in New York City, 1976.
Photograph by Donaldson Collection/Michael
Ochs Archives/Getty Images
EVENINGWEAR
The 10th Cannes Film Festival, 1957. Photograph by Jack Garofalo/Paris Match via Getty
ImagesHAMPTONS
Westhampton Beach New York, 2014. Photograph by Overfightstock Ltd/Alamy
WATCH ENTHUSIASTS’ GATHERING
Amy Shore/RevolutionAPRÈS-SKI
St Moritz. Photograph by Izzet Keribar/Lonely
Planet Images via Getty Images
WEDDING
Newlyweds leaving a church. Photograph byBettmann/Getty Images
CARIBBEAN
The harbour of Gustavia, Saint-Barthélemy.
Photograph by Reed Kaestner/Getty Images
ART BASEL
Art Basel Miami, 2017. Photograph courtesy
Art Basel

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mrporter.com
therake.com

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