日本の魅 力
発見プロジェクト

〜 東 京 都 墨田 区・長 野 県 小 布 施 町 〜TOKYO·NAGANO
東 京・長 野BEYOND ORDINARY ITINERARIESThe Sumida City in Tokyo Metropolitan and
The Obuse Town in Nagano PrefectureBeyond Ordinary Itineraries
The Sumida City in Tokyo Metropolitan
and The Obuse Town in Nagano Prefecture日本の魅 力発見プロジェクト

〜 東 京 都 墨田 区・長 野 県 小 布 施 町 〜TOKYO·NAGANO
東 京・長 野BEYOND ORDINARY ITINERARIESThe Sumida City in Tokyo Metropolitan and
The Obuse Town in Nagano PrefectureCONTENTS

p.6

Introduction
Two Towns Bridged by Hokusai
p.7

Chapter.1

SUMIDA-CITY
East End of Tokyo, Hokusai’s Birthplace
p.10

Ushijima Jinja (Ushijima Shrine)

p.12

Hossho-ji (Hossho Temple)

p.15

Sumida Hokusai Museum

p.18

Sumida, the Town of Craftsmen

p.20

MERIKOTI

p.22

Sumida Edo-Kiriko Kan (The House of Edo-Kiriko)

p.25

Kume Sen-i Kogyo Factory Shop (KUME.JP Factory Shop) – T-shirts

p.27

Atelier Sogeikan – Edo Calligraphy

p.29

Kataoka Byobuten (Kataoka Folding Screens)p.31

Tsukada Kobo (Atelier Tsukada) – Edo Kimekomi Dolls

p.33

Chapter.2

OBUSE TOWN
Hokusai or Snow Monkeys?
p.37

Obuse with a “Modified” Town Center“Inside the house belongs to the family, but outside belongs to everybody.”

p.40

Open Gardens

p.42

Takai Kozan Kinenkan (Takai Kozan Memorial)

p.45

Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Kan (Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Museum)

p.49

Gansho-in (Gansho-in Temple)

p.52

One-Day Trip To Sumida
p.58

One-Day Trip To Obuse by Hokuriku Shinkansen

二つの町

墨田 区

葛 飾 北斎がつなぐ

世界で最も有名な浮世絵師、葛飾北斎（1760-1849 年）。北斎がいなければ、フランスで「印象主義」の運動は起こらなかったと言っても過言ではない。しかし、葛飾北斎の作品が国境を超えて絶賛されたのは、残念ながら彼の死後。1867 年にシャン・ド・マルスで開催された第 2 回パリ万博のことであった。以降、鮮烈なプルシアン

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト

ブルー（紺青）で彩られた『冨嶽三十六景 神奈川沖浪裏』は、日本

Tokyo Metropolitan

東京都

文化のアイコンにもなっており、北斎は、洋の東西を問わず人々の心を惹きつけてやまない。2016 年に北斎の生誕地である東京の墨田区に「すみだ北斎美術館」が設立されたが、その 40 年も前から、
長野県小布施町には「北斎館」が存在していた。墨田区から約 250

Chapter

キロも離れた場所に、なぜ北斎の美術館があるのだろうか。

1“SUMIDA CITY”“Without the Japanese printmaker Hokusai, Impressionism might
never have happened.” This comment was made by art critic Jason
Farago in 2015 during an exhibition of the works of Katsushika
Hokusai (1760-1849) at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, USA.
Hokusai is one of the most famous Japanese artists in the world.
In fact, he was the only Japanese person to be nominated in Life
Magazine’s The 100 Most Important Events and People of the Past
葛飾北斎「冨嶽三十六景 神奈川沖浪裏」すみだ北斎美術館所蔵

1,000 Years published in 1998. In his lifetime, however, Hokusai

Two Towns Bridged by Hokusai

never sensed that his work would receive such universal acclaim
internationally. It was eighteen years after his death, during theSecond World Exposition in Paris in 1867, that his beautiful works
received praise beyond Japan’s borders. Since then, the woodblock
print Under the Wave Off Kanagawa or simply The Great Wave inPrussian blue has been recognized as a symbol of Japanese culture.
In recent years, exhibitions of Hokusai’s artworks have been held inmany cities around the world including Grand Palais des ChampsÉlysées in Paris and the British Museum in London. The beauty
that Hokusai created has long fascinated people around the world.
In 2016, the Sumida Hokusai Museum was established in Sumida
City, Tokyo, where Hokusai was born and spent most of his life.
This museum, however, is not the first to specialize in Hokusai’s
artworks. The first museum to showcase Hokusai’s works has been
open for about forty years in Obuse in Nagano Prefecture, and iscalled Hokusai-kan. Why in Obuse, a place over 250 kilometers
away from his birthplace? You will know the answer by visiting twoplaces, Sumida and Obuse.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

6

7

TOKYO・NAGANO

葛 飾 北斎を生んだ
東 京のイーストエンドを歩く

谷中、根津、千駄木、いわゆる「谷根千」地域や浅草のある台東区

Tokyo’s ‘old town.’ Tourists might also visit the tallest tower inの、隅田川を挟んで対岸にある墨田区。墨田区の光景ですぐに思いJapan, the Tokyo Skytree, but not many would think to explore the

出されるのは、
なんといっても東京スカイツリーであろう。2008 年

town beneath the tower. This is our secret for those who want toに工事が着工された後は、タワーの上に設置されている巨大クレー

know more about Japanese life. This town, separated from Asakusa

ンの位置がどんどん高くなって、注目されていたことが懐かしく思by the Sumida River, is called Sumida-ku (Sumida City), which is

い出される。2012 年に開業した 634 メートルの世界で最も高い電also known as the town of craftsmen.

波塔は、多くの観光客が訪れる墨田区一の観光スポットとなった。
そんなスカイツリーのお膝元である墨田区を歩いてみると、街の区

Here, you will notice that the streets are laid out as a grid. This is

画が碁盤の目のように整備されていることに驚く。これは、江戸時

because this town was recreated by the Tokugawa Shogunate after a

代、振袖火事とも呼ばれる明暦の大火で江戸の市街の約 6 割が消失

big fire in 1657 which burned down over 60% of Edo City.

してしまったことにより、防火対策を念頭においた江戸版都市復興

The Edo government reclaimed the ground and developed water-

計画で作られたのがこの地域であったためである。隅田川に両国橋

ways to ensure that the town was resistant to fire. Temples, shrines

が架けられ、湿地帯であったこの地は埋め立てられた。割下水と呼and houses of important samurai in the central part of Edo were

ばれる水路が作られて碁盤目状に区画整理をし、武家屋敷、寺社仏

relocated in this East-end town. As the saying goes, “where there is

閣を移転させた。武家屋敷を中心として作られた新しい町には、職

demand, there will be supply,” and as such craftsmen and merchants

人や商人も移住してきたため、日用品の製造販売もさかんに行われ、gathered in this “new” town of important samurai. The town

担い手として江戸文化を支えていた。春の隅田堤の桜の花見、夏のflourished as a hub for popular culture, including sumo tourna-

隅田川花火大会、1 月、5 月、9 月に両国国技館で開催される大相撲

ments and flower viewing, with many cultural practices continuingの本場所など、墨田区で季節に応じて楽しめるイベントは、その発

today. In the 18th century the shogun of that time ordered that a

祥が江戸時代に遡るものが多いのも、江戸の庶民文化の中心であっhundred cherry trees be planted along the Sumida River. Strolling

たことをまさに物語っている。

along the river under the cherry blossoms in April is a seasonal

明暦の大火の避難場所として整備された地域が、くしくも、その後

pleasure even now. The Sumida Fireworks Festival also began inの関東大震災と第二次世界大戦の空襲による大火で町の建物の大半

those days. During the following century, the first sumo tourna-が焼失してしまったのはとても無念なことであるが、碁盤目状の道

ment was held in Eko-in Temple. Nowadays, the sumo tournamentsと江戸仕込みのものづくりの魂は失われていない。北斎の作品をさare held in Kokugi-kan in Ryogoku of Sumida City in January, Mayらに深く堪能するべく、北斎ゆかりの場所を訪ねるとともに、このand September.

East End of Tokyo,
Hokusai’s Birthplace

地に息づいている「ものづくり」の魂に触れたいと思う。
墨田区の街歩きをスタートさせるのは、東京メトロ半蔵門線と都営

While the town of Sumida was recreated to be resistant to fire,

浅草線が乗り入れる押上駅や JR 総武線と都営大江戸線が乗り入れ

it unfortunately did not survive the fire caused by the Great Kanto

る両国駅が便利である。墨田区内を循環するコミュニティバスも 3

Earthquake in 1923 and the bombing during World War II. Most

ルートあり、1 日乗車券（300 円）を購入すれば、3 ルートのバス

of the buildings in the area were burned down. But today you can

を 1 日自由に乗り降りできる。

still see the streets designed in a grid and feel the spirit ofcraftsmanship that has pervaded the town since the Edo period.
To start your adventure in Sumida City, head for Oshiage Stationby the Hanzomon Line or the Toei Asakusa Line, or Ryogoku
Station by the JR Sobu Line or the Toei Oedo Line. A one-day

One of the major attractions for first-time tourists in Tokyo isticket (300yen) that is valid for three city circular buses is

Senso-ji (Senso Temple) in Asakusa, which is located in Shitamachi,

recommended.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

8

9TOKYO・NAGANO

牛嶋 神社「すみだ北斎美術館に行く前に、まず訪れるべき所がある」と、この日の案内人を務めてくださったのは墨田区観光協会理事であり、メ
イドインジャパンにこだわったＴシャツを作っている久米繊維工業

墨田の街を守る聖なる牛の会長、久米信行氏。墨田区本所の総鎮守である牛嶋神社に朝のご挨拶をしてご利益を頂戴するのはもちろん、「すみだ北斎美術館」の楽しみを倍にするという、違う意味でのご利益があるという。
牛嶋神社は、隅田川に架かる言問橋のすぐ近く。日本全国の約 8 万1社の神社の中でも数えるほどしかないというとても珍しい三ツ鳥居
をくぐり、ご祈祷を受けるべく、拝殿の中へ足を進める。すると、拝殿に向かって左側の壁に大きなモノクロ写真が掛かっているのを見1

aside from an ox statue in the shrine, there is a reason for its name.

つけた。86 歳の北斎が描き奉納した絵馬「須佐之男 命 厄神退治之図」

平安時代前期の貞観 2（860）年に慈覚大師円仁（じかくだいしえんにん）にThis shrine was relocated after the Great Kanto Earthquake: it was

朝がご加護を受けたことから感謝の気持ちとして社殿を造営したとも伝えら

was the delta. The shrine was thus on an island-like place. In thatのパネルである。須佐之男命が悪病をもたらす疫神を跪かせ、二度と悪事を働かないように証文をとっている場面を描いた作品であるという。残念ながら、実物は関東大震災の時に焼失してしまったが、明治時代に発行された美術誌に掲載されたモノクロ写真が残されていたのだ。展示されているものは、これを拡大したものである。そして、このモノクロ写真を元に最先端のデジタル技術を駆使し色彩復元された作品が「すみだ北斎美術館」に展示されていると説明を受けた。テクノロジーで蘇った北斎の肉筆画はどのようなものなのだろうか。想像が膨らむのと同時に心が躍るのを感じる。これも、牛嶋神社の現世利益の一つなのかもしれないと思いつつ、神社を後にした。

Guardian Ox of Sumida City

Ushijima Jinja (Ushijima Shrine)

牛嶋神社
東京都墨田区向島 1-4-5 TEL：03-3622-0973
都営浅草線「本所吾妻橋駅」、もしくは、東武スカイツリーライン「とうきょうスカイツリー駅」から徒歩 7 分より創建された由緒ある神社。武蔵国に入るべく隅田川を渡ろうとした源頼れている。かつては現在の向島 5 丁目にあったが関東大震災により焼失し、
昭和 7（1932）年にこの地に再建された。隅田川沿いの旧本所の地域は飛鳥時代から国営の牧場があり、牛が多くいたことから「牛嶋」と呼ばれていたといわれ、5 年に一度の大祭では、黒雄和牛の神牛が引く鳳輦（ほうれん）が町を巡行する。

Ushijima Shrine, established in 860,
has more than a thousand years ofhistory. Since the Edo period, thestatue of the ox in the shrine has been
believed to have healing power and it
is called “Nade-ushi”, or “the Ox to be
Stroked.” Stroke the part of your bodythat is weak or hurts and then stroke
the ox in the corresponding place. The
ox will make it better!

originally located about 1 km upstream of the Sumida River, whicharea there was a national cattle farm (established in 701-704!) hence
the name of ‘Ox Island.’ Now the landform is different because of
the reclamation and there is no Ox Island any more. Instead, where
Ushijima Shrine used to stand, there is now a famous sweet shop
named “Chomei-ji” that specializes in sakura-mochi (pink-coloredrice cake with a sweet red bean paste center and wrapped in a
pickled cherry blossom leaf ). It is a must for sweet lovers!
Returning to the topic at hand, you will notice that the torii shrine
gate in Ushijima Shrine is unlike others you may have seen while
visiting other shrines, such as the Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.
Here, the shrine has a tripled gate, which only around twenty of
80,000 shrines in Japan have. In the hall, you will see a large blackand-white photograph on the left wall. That is the photo of the votive
picture, Susanoo-no-Mikoto Conquering the Evils of Plague painted by
Hokusai when he was 86 years old, four years before he passed away.

“There is a place that you should visit before going to the Sumida

This is one of the largest (2.76m x 1.26m) hand-drawn pictures of his

Hokusai Museum,” Mr. Nobuyuki Kume, the president of theclosing years. Unfortunately, the actual picture was burned during

Made-in-Japan T-shirt label and a member of the board of directors

the Great Kanto Earthquake. But later, the photo of the picture wasfor the Tourism Association of Sumida City, tells us. This important

found in an art magazine issued in the Meiji era (1868-1912), and it

place is Ushijima Shrine. While initially you might think he means

was enlarged to be placed here. Now, finally, you might have guessed

you ought to pay respect to the local guardian deities, there is in

why you have to visit this shrine before going to the museum!

fact another reason this place will help you make the most of yourvisit to the museum…
Ushijima Shrine is a small shrine located inside Sumida Park next

Ushijima Jinja(Ushijima Shrine)

to Kototoi Bridge, over the Sumida River. The word “Ushi-jima”

1-4-5 Mukojima, Sumida-ku Tel: 03-3622-0973
A 7-minute walk from Honjo Azumabashi Station of the Toei Asakusa Lineor Tokyo Skytree Station of the Tobu Skytree Line

literally means Ox Island. Even though you will see no ox now

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

10

11TOKYO・NAGANO

法性寺
ほっ

しょう

じ

鬼 才・葛飾北斎を導く北極星

牛嶋神社からすみだ北斎美術館までは歩いても 30 分程度の距離で

北十間川と横十間川が交わる一角にある法性寺は、「柳嶋の妙見さあるが、墨田区内を巡る循環バスを利用してみる。まずは、ターミ

ま」と人々から呼ばれている日蓮宗の寺である。そう、北斎も数々ナルとなっている押上駅へ向かうべく、区内循環バスの見番通り入の作品の中に描き残した妙見堂がある寺で、開運北辰妙見大菩薩が口（桜橋東詰）の停留所へと歩く。この停留所の近くには、桜餅発

今でも祀られている。

祥の店である「長命寺桜もち」や「言問団子」があるが、その楽しみは午後のおやつの時間にとっておくとする。押上駅から区内循環

To expand your knowledge of Hokusai, we recommend another

バスを南部ルート（両国・錦糸町ルート）に乗り換え、すみだ北斎
2

美術館へ向かう。その途中に、法性寺という北斎ゆかりの寺がある

法性寺は明応元（1492）年の創建。北というので、柳嶋妙見山法性寺入口で下車した。バス停近くの十間極星の化身が柳嶋に舞い降り、この土地が光り輝いたという。

Hossho-ji was established in 1492 in
the area called Yanagishima, where
the Deity of the North Star descended
and shone brilliantly.

brief detour to a small temple named Hossho-ji, which is commonly referred to as “Myoken-sama of Yanagishima” (trans: Deity of
Myoken at Yanagishima). You will find this temple on the way to

橋にカメラやスマホを持った人々が集まっている。ここは、北十間

Hokusai Museum from Oshiage Station by a circular bus (southern

川に映る「逆さスカイツリー」が見える撮影スポットとして知られroute). It is a temple of the Nichiren Sect and has more than 500ているらしい。

years of history. More importantly, this is the temple that Hokusai
worshiped.

2

18 歳の北斎は、浮世絵師である勝川 春 章に弟子入りしたが、34 歳の時に破門。生活に窮したため、絵筆を折ろうと考えるまで悩んだ
北斎を救ったのが、この「柳嶋の妙見さま」であったという。願をBeyond Ordinary Itineraries

12

13

The Temple of the North Star that
Led Hokusai

Hossho-ji (Hossho Temple)

かけること 21 日間。とうとう満願になった日の帰り道に落雷に遭い失神し、その後、北斎は絵師として頭角を現したという伝説が残されている。北斎の頭上に落ちたのが、雷であるか、舞い降りた北極星の化身であるかは定かでないが、このような逸話からも北斎の非凡さが窺える。
北極星は人類が地球上に棲み始めるようになった太古の昔から、一年を通じて夜空の北の方角で煌々と輝き続けている星である。北半球にあれば、それはどの国でも同じことである。
「100 歳に至っては
正に神妙の域に達するであろう」と『冨嶽百景』の後書きに記した北斎。北極星のごとく、永遠に唯一無二の存在として輝き続ける絵師になるべく、北極星の神を信仰していたのであろうかと想像をかきたてられる。

柳嶋妙見山法性寺
http://www.yanagishima-myouken.net
東京都墨田区業平 5-7-7
TEL：03-3625-3838

京成・都営浅草線「押上駅」出口から徒歩 8 分
東京メトロ半蔵門線「押上駅」B1 出口から徒歩 6 分
墨田区循環バス、南部ルート「柳嶋妙見山法性寺入口」下車 徒歩 3 分

TOKYO・NAGANO

Hokusai, at the age of 18, apprenticed himself to Katsukawa
Shunsho, the leading ukiyo-e artist in the latter half of the 18th
century. However, he was expelled at the age of 34, which resulted
in financial hardship and compelled him to give up his life as an art-

すみだ北 斎美術館

Yanagishima. After his final prayer, he was struck by lightning while
traveling home, causing him to faint. After this incident, he becamea prominent ukiyo-e artist! We will never know whether Hokusai

スーパーモダンな建物。これがすみだ北斎美術館である。海外でも活躍し、日本を代表する建築家の 1 人である妹島和世氏の設計による建物には裏も表もなく、建物の概念を逸脱した造りになっている。
北斎は、斬新な遠近法を駆使したユニークな構図、日本の漫画の起

ist. According to legend, before making his final decision about his
career as an artist, he prayed for 21 days to the Deity of Myoken at

弘前藩津軽家上屋敷の跡地の公園内に建築されたシルバーに輝く

江 戸の最 先 端、
北 斎を平 成の源とも言われるスケッチ、目に映る色を表現するための飽くなき追求など、活躍した当時では、当世風の言い方をすれば「ポップ」な絵師と見られていたのだろうと想像をかきたたせる建物である。

最 先 端で表 現する

was struck by the lightning or the touch of a deity. In fact, Myoken
In a park which used to be the main residence of the Tsugaru Fam-is the Deity of Polaris, the North Star.

ily of the Hirosaki Feudal Domain (now called Aomori) in Edo(which is now called Tokyo) stands a super-modern building thatout the history of the Earth. As William Shakespeare wrote ingives off a silver brilliance. This is Sumida Hokusai Museum, an ex-

Julius Caesar, “I am constant as the northern star, of whose true-

ceptional piece of architecture. Usually, a museum of traditional art

fix’d and resting quality. There is no fellow in the firmament,” and as

is constructed in a traditional way. This building, however, breaks

Confucius wrote, “Justice is like the north star, which is fixed, andthe mold. It was designed by Kazuyo Sejima, a Pritzker Architecture

all the rest revolve about it.” Seeing the Temple of the North Star

Prize-winning architect, and it deviates from what one expects fromwill enable you to understand why Hokusai had faith in the god

a standard building; it has no “front” or “back” entrance. This sur-who is worshipped there. He wrote in the postscript of his art bookprising feature is reasonable if you take into consideration the kind

A Hundred Views of Mt. Fuji, which was published when he wasof artist Hokusai was. The layout of his artworks flattens laws of

75 years old, “I will reach the fields of God as an artist at the age ofperspective, his sketches and fluid mark-making are thought to have100.” This ambition, however, was not realized as he passed away

inspired the dynamic line work of manga, and he pursued colors offifteen years later. Even so, the brilliance of Hokusai still shines likethe North Star.

Hossho-ji, Yamagishima Myoken(Hossho Temple)

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

Sumida Hokusai Museum

5-7-7 Narihira, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3625-3838
8 minutes on foot from Oshiage Station of the Keisei Line and the Toei Asakusa Line
6 minutes on foot from Oshiage Station of the Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line
3 minutes on foot from the bus station “ Yanagishima Myokenzan Hosshoji Iriguchi ”(reached via the circular bus (southern route))

14

15

The Junction of Cutting-Edge
Cultures, Old and New

The North Star has always shone in the same direction all through-paint that perfectly realized the real colors that he saw… With thesecharacteristics, he could be categorized as a Pop Artist himself !

エレベーターで 4 階に上がると、常設展の入口正面に、牛嶋神社で見た、あの「須佐之男命厄神退治之図」に素晴らしい色付けが施された推定復元図が展示されている。モノクロの写真を科学的、美術史的に分析し、北斎が使用したであろう絵具の色を再現したもので、インクジェットでは表現できない金箔・金泥などは職人による手作
業で仕上げられた。八 俣大蛇を退治し、草 薙剣を献上する前は、
天 照大御神を天 岩戸に閉じ篭らせる程の悪事を働いていた須佐之男命に自分を重ね、彼に忍び寄る「老い」を悪神に見立てて描いたのであろうかと、想像が膨らむ。北斎が死去する直前に描かれた肉筆画「富士越龍図」は、日本で初めて作られた和歌と伝えられ
る、須佐之男命が立ち昇る雲を見て詠んだ歌を思い出させる。

TOKYO・NAGANO

すみだ北斎美術館のロゴマークは、『冨嶽三十六景 山下白雨』の黒富士の裾野に描かれた筋がモチーフであるそうだ。北斎の信仰と稲妻に打たれた伝説を知った後に改めてこの絵を見ると、筋が稲妻のようにも、北斎が信仰した妙見さまの北斗七星のように見えてくる。

すみだ北斎美術館
http://hokusai-museum.jp/
東京都墨田区亀沢 2-7-2
TEL：03-5777-8600
開館時間：9:30 〜 17:30（入館は閉館の 30 分前まで）

休館日：毎週月曜日（月曜が祝日または振替休日の場合はその翌平日）
都営地下鉄大江戸線「両国駅」A3 出口から徒歩 5 分
JR 総武線「両国駅」東口から徒歩 9 分
都営バス・墨田区内循環バス「都営両国駅前」から徒歩 5 分

墨田区内循環バス「すみだ北斎美術館前（津軽家上屋敷跡）停留所」からすぐ

Sumida Hokusai Museum has a collection of more than 1,500
examples of Hokusai’s artworks. Moreover, here you can learn
about how he worked and what his hometown, Sumida, was likein the Edo period. In the permanent exhibition area, various kindsof multilingual panels and touchscreens allow you to connect toyouth when he carried out wicked acts that troubled his elder sister

Hokusai and his works in a familiar way. This innovation is very

Amaterasu (the goddess of the sun) so much that she hid herself in

unique, and makes this museum, along with its unique architecture,

the Amano-Iwato cave, which made the whole land out of sunlight.

a fascinating fusion of traditional and modern culture.

Susanoo was expelled from Heaven, but later had a change of heart

On the fourth floor near the entrance of the permanent exhibition,and became a brave warrior to fight against an evil eight-forked

you will see a large hand-painted picture that you may recognize. It

serpent. He obtained a treasure sword from the tail of the serpent andis Susanoo-no-Mikoto Conquering the Evils of Plague which you saw

offered it as a tribute to Amaterasu. This sword is known as one ofin Ushijima Shrine, but this time in color! It was recreated fromthe three Imperial treasures. Why did Hokusai paint Susanoo? Did

that black-and-white photo through research in the photographic

he see his life in Susanoo’s? No-one knows the answer, but there issciences and humanities. Here researchers have sought to capture

another picture that might be associated with Susanoo: The Dragon

the original colors used by Hokusai, reproducing the way he createdof Smoke Escaping from Mount Fuji, which is known as the last work

the colors and how he drew the lines. The print was realized by aof Hokusai. The connection is that Susanoo created a poem, known

high-tech inkjet printer from the Toppan Printing Company, andas the first waka poem, of clouds rising into the air.

all of the extra detailing, such as gold leafing and gold painting,were realized by professional craftsmen. The well-reproduced coloredpicture will conjure up an image of Hokusai more clearly. In Japanese

Sumida Hokusai Museum

mythology, Susanoo-no-Mikoto is the son of god who created Japan

2-7-2 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-5777-8600
Opening hours: 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Entry is allowed up until 30 minutes before the museum closes.
Closing day: Monday (or the following weekday if public holiday falls on Monday)
5 minutes on foot from Ryogoku Station of the Toei Oedo Line A3 Exit
9 minutes on foot from Ryogoku Station of the JR Sobu Line East Exit
5 minutes on foot from the bus stop “ Toei Ryogoku Eki Mae ” (reached via the circular bus)
In front of the bus stop “ Sumida Hokusai Bijutsukan Mae ” (reached via the circular bus)

and he, himself, is the god of the sea and storm. This picture shows
the scene where fifteen plagues of evil kneel down to Susanoo andsign a contract agreeing to do no more harm. You may imagine thatSusanoo was a brave god of justice, but he was far from during his

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

16

17

TOKYO・NAGANO

ものづくりのまち
墨田区
江 戸から昭和の職 人の息 遣いが聞こえる町

江戸時代には職人による日用品の製造販売、近代化が始まった明治

One of the best “Made in Japan” fine leather shoes makers, Scotch

時代には殖産興業政策による近代軽工業の発祥の地となった墨田区

Grain, was also established in Sumida. Good leather shoes last a

エリア。社屋の屋上に作られた巨大な金色のオブジェで有名なアサ

long time with proper maintenance and care. The spirit of crafts-

ヒビール、カネボウ、花王、セイコーなど、現在でもその名を聞け

manship is to create something sustainable that people can use

ば皆がうなずく大企業の他、小規模な繊維、化学などの雑貨工業やwith love for a long time, just as we treasure artworks. Sumida is a

機械・金属、出版・印刷などの工業が発展した地域であった。東京

town where you can feel this spirit. Just as the North Star, which

商工会議所の資料によれば、現在でも、東京 23 区で 3 番目に多い

led Hokusai, is always shining in the north sky, Sumida, the town

製造業数を誇り、区内産業構成でも製造業が 20.6％を占める（東京which recovered from two conflagrations, will be shining forever in

都平均 7.5％）、れっきとした「ものづくりのまち」であり、約 3,470

the East end of Tokyo.

もの工場や工房で紙、革、金属、ガラスなど、さまざまなジャンルの製品が、伝統の技と革新の技術で作られている。

2012 年には、その「ものづくり」の現場を見学、体験するイベント「スミファ」も始まり、2017 年で 6 回目を迎えた。そんな墨田区の職人魂に触れるべく、現場を訪れてみる。

Sumida is a town of new beginnings. The production of daily
commodities by craftsmen began in the 17th century, and the light

The Town Where the Craftsmanshipof the 17th Century Still Lives

Sumida, the Town of Craftsmen

industry began soon after the modernization of Japan in the 19th
century. You may have already photographed the huge golden

Since 2012, the area has held an annual event called “Sumi-Fa”,

objet d'art on the top of the building next to a beer-mug-shaped

during which people can visit factories to see and try their hand atbuilding near the Sumida River. That building is the head officeproduction processes. Of course, there are some factories where aof Asahi Beer, which is just one of the famous companies to havefactory tour is available outside this event period. Why don’t you

been founded in Sumida. Kanebo (a cosmetics company), Kao (ahave a close look at craftsmen at work? It might help you imagine

cosmetics company), Seiko (a watch company) are some other ex-

Hokusai at work in his studio!

amples. Moreover, many small factories of textiles, chemical works,
machinery, metal, glass, leather and printing have been establishedin Sumida. Now about 3,470 factories and ateliers in the area.

日本製の革靴として五本の指に入るブランドであるスコッチグレイ
ンも墨田区で作られているが、スコッチグレインの靴は傷んだら直して長年履き続けることができる。日本という国がいつまでも持ち続けたい、そして、持ち続けなければいけない「ものづくり」の魂を実感できる土地、墨田区。北斎を見守り続けた北極星が、いつの時代も変わらず北の夜空で輝き続けたように、二度の大火災にも負けずに立ち上がり続けた墨田区は、東京のイーストエンドで輝き続けるだろう。

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

18

19

TOKYO・NAGANO

1960s. Meriyasu is said to have been derived from the Portuguese
word “meias” or the Spanish word “medias,” both of which mean
“socks.” Japanese traditional socks called tabi, which go with a kimono, as you may already know, and are cotton-textile socks with aseparation between the big toe and the other toes. They are made to
fit zori sandals. Given the abundance of knitted goods one can make,it is easy to imagine how surprised many people are to hear that theJapanese word for knitting comes from a word meaning “socks.”

すみだ北斎美術館から北斎通りを両国方向に歩いて 1 分の所にある「MERIKOTI」は、そのメリヤス＝ニットで作ったルームシューズを販売している店である。なんといっても特徴は、日本の伝統的な履物である「草履」を、モダンで斬新な色使いで作り上げている点。ガラス越しに見える店内には、カラフルな布草履が所狭しと陳列されており、まるでイタリアかフランスの街角にあるお洒落な店舗のようだ。

MERIKOTI
http://www.meri-koti.tokyo
東京都墨田区亀沢 1-12-10 平井ビル 1F
TEL：070-6986-0708
営業時間：10：00 〜 18：00

メリコティ

MERIKOTIMERIKOTI(Knit Room Shoes)（メリヤス・ルームシューズ）

定休日：無休（年末年始を除く）
都営大江戸線「両国駅」A3 出口から徒歩 5 分
JR 総武線「両国駅」東口から徒歩 10 分

メリヤスという言葉を聞いて、すぐにピンとくるのはある世代以上の人だけかもしれない。
『新ファッションビジネス基礎用語辞典』によれば、「ニットと同義語。編物のことを昭和 30 年代頃まで、一般

MERIKOTI is a shop that is just a one-minute-walk from Sumidaにメリヤスといった。以後、編物の急激な発展により、外衣までもHokusai Museum, where special knitted indoor shoes are sold (in含めた衣料の主要生地となったため、肌着、靴下のイメージの強いJapan, we call these “room shoes”). MERIKOTI's room shoes have

メリヤスから順次ニットということばに移行した。メリヤスとは、

a distinct sense of form and color. The form adheres fundamentally

ポルトガル語のメイアッシュ (meias)、
またはスペイン語のメジアス

to that of traditional zori, but the colors used are very modern and(medias) からきた言葉といわれているが、いずれも靴下という意味

avant-garde. This shop sells a fusion of room shoe styles - old andである。
」ということで、外国人に「メリヤス」と言っても全く通じ

new, East and West – and will absolutely catch your eye. You will

ない理由が分かった。

MERIKOTI ／オレンジトーキョー 小高
集氏。2014 年にオープンしたショップ
兼アトリエ。布草履づくりやかぎ針での編み物を体験できるワークショップなども随時開催されている（予約制）。

Do you know the word “Meriyasu?” If you do, you might pass the

not miss it!

MERIKOTI

don’t know. “Meriyasu” means “knitting,” and was used up until the

Mr. Tsudoi Kodaka of MERIKOTI/
Orange Tokyo. The shop + atelier
was established in 2014. You can also
see an old knitting machine at work.
Workshops in cloth zori making andknitting are available with an advancereservation.

Hirai Building 1st floor, 1-12-10, Kamezawa, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 070-6986-0708
Opening hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
No closing day (except for New Years holidays)
5 minutes on foot from Exit A3 of Ryogoku Station of the Toei Oedo Line
10 minutes on foot from the East Exit of Ryogoku Station of the JR Sobu Line

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

21

TOKYO・NAGANO

highest level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test! It is a word
even many Japanese people, especially the younger generation,

20

江戸切子は、天保 5（1834）年、江戸大伝馬町のビードロ問屋加賀すみだ
江戸 切子館屋久兵衛が、海外のカットグラスを手本にして、金剛砂を使ってガラスの表面に彫刻したのが始まりと伝えられている。黒船で来航したペリー提督が、加賀屋から献上されたガラス瓶の見事な切子に驚嘆したという逸話もあり、江戸切子は、幕末から現代に至るまで、海外の有名カットグラスに引けを取らない日本の美として世界的に人気を博している。

Edo-kiriko (cut glass of the Edo style) is said to have been invented
in 1834 by a glass merchant in Edo. He engraved the surface of theglass with an emery stone to emulate British cut glass. Subsequently
the techniques of glass-cutting improved so quickly that edo-kiriko
amazed Commodore Perry of the U. S. Navy, who came to Edo
seeking trade with Japan in 1853. Since then edo-kiriko has been
just one of the crafts that represents Japanese beauty.
If you have several Japanese female friends, you might have noticed
that kiriko sounds like Japanese women’s names. In fact, many Japanese women have names that end with “ko,” such as Yoko, Tomoko,
Akiko, Sachiko… That “ko” indicates “child”. Edo-kiriko, however,is not the name of a woman but the name of cut glass. “Ko” alsomeans “the powder produced when glass is cut.” As “ko” has a double
meaning, it was attached to “kiri” as a clever play on words to makethe product name sound more lovely, like a beautiful woman, and toreflect the feeling that this art-form is like a beloved child to the artist.

江戸切子がただの「切子」ではなく、「江戸切子」と呼ばれているのは、江戸時代よりつくられていたことと、江戸好みのその模様である。斜めの線の矢来、竹篭の網目のような籠目、粟粒大の粒を密に打込んだ地に主文様を浮き出させたもので、武士の鎧にも使われていた魚子、2020 年の東京オリンピックのロゴにも使われている
市松模様、グラスの底に菊の花を施す底菊など、様々な模様がある。
「色被せ」ガラスにカットを施すのも特徴の一つである。
すみだ江戸切子館では、数多くの美しい切子のグラスが販売されている他、切子の模様と研削用の円盤、研磨材なども展示されており、切子の世界を十分に知ることができる。奥のスペースでは、実際にBeyond Ordinary Itineraries

22

23

TOKYO・NAGANO

職人が作業をしており、ガラス越しに見学することができるのだ。
また、体験用の工房では、自分の好きな色や形のグラスを選び、そこに自由に決めた模様を削りオリジナルの切子グラスを作る体験ができるのも魅力の一つである（予約制）。

すみだ江戸切子館
廣田硝子代表取締役会長の廣田達夫氏。蔵前橋通りにあるすみだ江戸切子
館は、1899 年に創業された廣田硝子の専門工房ショップである。すみだ江戸
切子館から錦糸町駅方面へ徒歩 5 分の所にある本社には、江戸硝子を販売する店舗とショールームもある。

Mr. Tatsuo Hirota, Chairman of the
Hirota Glass Company.
Edo-Kiriko Kan is a showroom of the
Hirota Glass Company, establishedin 1899. In their main office building,a five-minute walk from Edo-Kiriko
Kan, there is also a shop and a showroom of Edo-style glass.

http://www.edokiriko.net/

久米繊維工業
ファクトリー
ショップ（Ｔシャツ）

東京都墨田区太平 2-10-9
TEL：03-3623-4148

日本では T シャツという名詞を知る人が少なかった 1950 年代半ばに、T シャツを作り始めた久米繊維工業。タグに「Made in Japan」という文字を見ることがほとんど無くなってしまった現在でもなお、伝統に裏打ちされた確かな技術で国産 T シャツを作り続けている。その名も「色丸首」。着脱時の瞬間の強い引っ張りに耐える縫製方法で丁寧に作っているため、ホツレや糸切れも少なく、長い年月にわたって着ることができる T シャツである。価格は安いが 1 シー
ズンでお役御免になる代物とは訳が違うのだ。着るごとに愛着や味わいが増していく。これが日本の「ものづくり」の誇りであると久

営業時間：10:00 〜 18:00
休館日：日曜・祝日

米信行会長は語る。

JR 総武線、東京メトロ半蔵門線「錦糸町駅」から徒歩 7 分

久米繊維工業ファクトリーショップ

What makes edo-kiriko stand out from other styles of cut glass is its

http://kume.jp/

patterns. Each pattern has its own name; The pattern called Nanako

東京都墨田区太平 3-9-6

TEL：03-3625-4188
営業時間：10:00 〜 18:00
定休日：土・日曜日、祝日（不定休）(which sounds very much like a woman’s name again!) looks likefish eggs connected together. Yarai resembles a rain of arrows.

JR 総武線「錦糸町駅」北口から徒歩 6 分
東京メトロ半蔵門線「錦糸町駅」4 番出口から徒歩 4 分

Kagome depicts the mesh of a bamboo basket. Sokogiku depicts
chrysanthemum flowers on the bottom of the glass. The checkered
pattern used in the logo of the Olympic Games in 2020 is also used
for kiriko and its name is Ichimatsu.
In Edo-Kiriko Kan (The House of Edo-Kiriko), you will findvarious kinds of beautiful edo-kiriko products and also see firsthandthese interesting kiriko patterns, as well as the production process
and the materials and tools used. Moreover, you can see craftsmen
at work. Workshops in creating your original kiriko work are also

Sumida Edo-Kiriko Kan(The House of Edo-Kiriko)available with an advance reservation.

Sumida Edo-Kiriko Kan (The House of Edo-Kiriko)
2-10-9, Taihei, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3623-4148
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Closed on Sundays and holidays
7 minutes on foot from JR Kinshi-cho Station

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

24

25

TOKYO・NAGANO

3

In economically-developed countries, it has sadly become difficult

久米繊維工業では、すみだ北斎美術館

to find T-shirts made locally. In Japan, a T-shirt with “Made inのミュージアムショップで販売されている葛飾北斎の絵柄をデザインした T
シャツも作っている。また、好きなデザインを選び、オリジナルのシルクス

クリーンプリントの T シャツを作る体験ができるワークショップも随時開催している（予約制）。

Mr. Nobuyuki Kume, Chairman of
Kume Sen-i Company
The Hokusai T-shirts sold in HokusaiMuseum are made by Kume Sen-i.
Workshops in making an original
T-shirt with silkscreen are available
with an advance reservation.

Japan” printed on its woven tag is very rare. However, in Sumida,
there is a company which has continued to make T-shirts sincethe 1950s, when very few Japanese knew what T-shirts were. The
company is called Kume Sen-i, and its T-shirts are called IroMarukubi (“Colored Round Neck”). They are very durable andare resilient to losing their shape around the neckline due to their
special fabrication process. Five-dollar T-shirts that easily getdamaged in one season are incomparable to Iro-Marukubi! “The
more that Iro-Marukubi are put on, the more profound theircharm becomes. People will feel more attached to them if theywear them over a long period of time. This is the spirit of Japanese
craftsmanship,” says Mr. Kume.

Kume Sen-i Kogyo Factory Shop(KUME.JP Factory Shop)

Kume Sen-i Kogyo Factory Shop
(KUME.JP Factory Shop) – T-shirts

3-9-6, Taihei, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Closing day: Saturday, Sunday and some Holidays
6 minutes on foot from Kinshicho Station of the JR Sobu Line
4 minutes on foot from Kinshicho Station of the Hanzomon Line

3

アトリエ
創藝館

江戸文字と一言で言っても、歌舞伎の看板に使われる勘亭流（歌舞（江戸文字）

が押し合いもみ合うように、
また客席が埋まるように、
隙間なくぎっ伎文字）、
落語の看板や高座のめくりに使われる橘流（寄席文字）や、相撲の番付表などに使用される根岸流（相撲文字）など、用途に応じて色々な文字がある。相撲文字は、力文字とも呼ばれ、力士たち
しりと書くのだそうだ。歌舞伎や寄席では、客入りがどんどん良くなるように、文字全体を右肩上がりに書く。さらに、文字のハライ
は、「客が流れる」「運気を逃がす」ことを連想させるので、はらわずにトメ、外へハネルのも、「客を撥ねる」ことにならぬよう、筆先を内側に取り込むようにつけ、客を逃がさないように囲い込むのだ
そうだ。日本語には言霊があると言うが、文字の書き方でも縁起を担ぐことが大切にされてきた。
アトリエ創藝館では、江戸文字の基礎を教わり、自分で選んだ字をBeyond Ordinary Itineraries

26

27

TOKYO・NAGANO

提灯や白扇に書く体験ができるワークショップを随時開催している（予約制）。

片岡屏 風 店

現代に生きる我々にとって屏風と言えば、結婚式の時の新郎新婦や、雛人形のお内裏様とお雛様のバックに立てる金屏風のイメージが強い。その歴史は奈良時代に遡り、文字通り、風を屏ぐ（防ぐ）ことを目的として作られた物で、枕元に置かれたり、部屋の間仕切りとアトリエ創藝館

して使われてきた。安土桃山時代から江戸時代にかけては、城郭に

http://visit-sumida.jp/spot/6008/

は必ずと言っていいほど屏風が置かれ、狩野派などの優れた絵師に

東京都墨田区横川３-８-２
TEL：03-3622-2381
アトリエ創藝館代表の大石智博氏は、「描き屋（かきや）」と呼ばれた、提灯や看板などに文字や家紋などを書く職人。訪れる外国人客の名前に縁起の良よって描かれた屏風絵は芸術としてその地位を高めていった。2017

営業時間：10:00 〜 18:00
定休日：不定休
JR 総武線・東京メトロ半蔵門線「錦糸町駅」北口から徒歩 10 分

年 10 月から 2018 年 1 月にかけてイタリア・フィレンツェのウフィ

東京メトロ半蔵門線・京成線・都営地下鉄浅草線「押上駅」B2 出口から徒歩 8 分
東武スカイツリーライン「とうきょうスカイツリー駅」から徒歩 12 分

ツィ美術館において「花鳥風月̶屏風・襖にみる日本の自然̶」とい漢字を当て、それを江戸文字で書くいう展覧会も開催され人気を博したが、屏風は、戦国時代から江戸サービスも人気だとのこと。

Mr. Tomohiro Oishi, the master calligrapher. If you are interested, make areservation at the workshop and takea good interpreter with you. He will
give you a very interesting and uniqueexplanation of the styles of Edo calligraphy, but only in Japanese. He will
also give you your name in kanji!

時代初期に行われた南蛮貿易を通じて海外にも輸出されてきた美術品であった。

If you have ever been to the Senso-ji (Senso Temple) in Asakusa,
you may have photographed its main gate where a huge red lanternis hung. On that lantern you may have seen kanji (a type of Japanesewriting). The style those kanji are drawn in is called Edo moji (trans.

Folding screens, even though they are part of the Japanese tradition,

Edo font family). Edo, as you know, refers to the place now called

are becoming an endangered form of craftsmanship. The craft orig-

Tokyo, as well as the period from 1603 to 1868 when the Tokugawa
Shogunate in Edo ruled Japan. So, Edo moji is the font family
invented and commonly used in the Edo period. Eventually, Edomoji was not just considered to be a typeface but also to be a formof calligraphy. In those days, signboards of kabuki theaters, sumo
tournaments and rakugo entertainment were handwritten, and eachcalligraphy style has its own characteristics, name and meaning.
Atelier Sogeikan is a professional calligraphy shop. The master

Atelier Sogeikan – Edo Calligraphy

writes whatever and however clients desire with beautiful kanji inthe Edo style. There are several kinds of enjoyable workshops inwhich the master teaches you how to write Edo calligraphy andwrite anything you want in kanji on a fan or a lantern (reservation
required). Kanji itself is already impressive to foreign tourists, but
kanji in the Edo style is even more impressive!

Atelier Sogeikan
３-８-２ Yokokawa, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

Tel: 03-3622-2381
Opening hours: 10:00a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Closing day: Irregular
10 minutes on foot from Kinshicho Station of the JR Sobu Line and the Hanzomon Line
8 minutes on foot from Oshiage Station of the Hanzomon Line, the Keisei Line and theToei Asakusa Line
12 minutes on foot from Tokyo Skytree Station of the Tokyo Skytree Line

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

28

29

TOKYO・NAGANO

inated in the 8th century, where screens were placed at one’s futon
bedside near a pillow, or placed to partition a room. From the 16th
to the 19th century, before the modernization of the nation, every
castle had well-decorated folding screens which were recognized
as art. The beauty of the folding screens was recognized overseas
as they were exported to Europe. In fact, in 2017 an exhibition of
片岡屏風店二代目の片岡恭一社長。片folding screens was held at the Uffizzi Museum in Italy.

岡屏風店は、創業 1946 年の東京で唯一の屏風専門店。片岡屏風店では、屏風という日本文化を途絶えさせないた
めにも、屏風を作るワークショップを行っている（要予約）。また、屏風の構造や、屏風の製作に使用される道具、屏風の歴史がわかる年表パネルなどを常設展示し、実際に手に取って見ることのできる屏風が展示されている屏風博物館も併設している。

Mr. Kyoichi Kataoka of Kataoka
Folding Screens. Kataoka Folding
Screen is the only shop in Tokyo to
specialize in folding screens. He holds
workshops in making folding screens,which is one of the ways he continues
the tradition (reservation required).
The shop also has a small museum offolding screens where you can see andtouch various samples.

室町時代に発明された紙の蝶番を使った屏風の仕組みを片岡屏風店
二代目の片岡恭一社長に伺った。片岡屏風店では、伝統を守るだけ
でなく、伝統に新しい風を取り込むことが重要だと考え、現代の生活にもマッチした屏風や、タンスの中に眠っている帯、着物、スカー
フなどを使ったオリジナルの屏風も提案している。

片岡屏風店
http://www.byoubu.co.jp/
東京都墨田区向島 1-31-6

TEL：03-3622-4470
営業時間：10:00 〜 17:00

定休日：日曜・祝祭日 ( 土曜日は不定休 )東武スカイツリーライン「とうきょうスカイツリー駅」から徒歩 1 分
都営浅草線「本所吾妻橋駅」A4 出口から徒歩 5 分
都営浅草線、東京メトロ半蔵門線「押上駅」A3 出口から徒歩 7 分

塚田工 房

木目込人形とは、江戸時代中期に、京都の上賀茂神社で祭事用の奉（江戸木目込人形）ある。
「Japanese doll」と言えば木目込人形と市松人形がその筆頭格

粘土で作った人形に筋彫りを入れ、その溝に布の端を押し込んで衣

but the system used for folding screens is also splendid. The paper-

装を貼り付けるためである。

Mr. Kyoichi Kataoka, the president of Kataoka Folding Screen.
He makes folding screens that match modern life styles in accord
with his philosophy that even tradition needs to correspond to thedemands of the present day. He also makes original folding screensusing used kimonos, obi belts and scarves.

Kataoka Byobuten(Kataoka Folding Screens)
1-31-6 Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3622-4470
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Closing Day: Sunday and Holidays (some Saturdays)
One minute on foot from Tokyo Skytree Station of the Tobu Skytree Line
7 minutes on foot from Oshiage Station of the Toei Asakusa Line andthe Hanzomon Line30

Tsukada Kobo (Atelier Tsukada)– Edo Kimekomi Dolls

made hinge invented in the 14th–15th century is the key,” says

Kataoka Byobuten(Kataoka Folding Screens)であるが、市松人形とは違い、木目込人形は着せ替えはできない。
なぜならば、木彫、又は桐塑と呼ばれる桐の粉末に正麩糊を混ぜた“The pictures drawn on the screen draw the attention of people,

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

納箱の材料の残片で作られたのが始まりと言われる観賞用の人形で

31

塚田工房では、素地造りから、木目込、面相描き（顔入れ）、毛吹き
まで全ての工程を行っている。雛人形の他、干支の動物の人形や、招き猫などを制作している。小さな鞠のストラップやフクロウの人形などを木目込で作る体験ができるワークショップも随時開催している（予約制）。

塚田工房
http://www.edokimekomi.com/
東京都墨田区向島 2-11-7

TEL：03-3622-4579
営業時間：10:00 〜 17:00

定休日：日曜・祝日
都営浅草線、東京メトロ半蔵門線「押上駅」A3 出口（向島方面）から徒歩 8 分
東武スカイツリーライン「とうきょうスカイツリー駅」から徒歩 10 分

TOKYO・NAGANO

a souvenir shop with Japanese dolls. In fact, they are very popularsouvenirs among tourists. But how many people (including Japanesepeople) know much about these dolls? If you visit Atelier Tsukada,
you will become one of the very few!

塚田工房代表の塚田詠春氏は、高校卒
業と同時に伯父である人形師五代目名
川春山氏に入門した後、24 歳で独立して工房を始めた。内閣総理大臣特別賞など数々の受賞歴を経て、2008 年に東
京都より東京マイスターに認定されている。塚田工房内の江戸木目込人形博
物館には、明治時代から現在に至るま

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト

Nagano Prefecture

長野県

Japanese dolls are roughly divided into two categories: Ichimatsu
dolls and kimekomi dolls. Ichimatsu dolls are usually made to beheld in the arms, dressed and posed. Briefly, they are dress-up dolls.
On the other hand, kimekomi dolls are not to be played with andChapter

their clothes (actually kimono) are not changeable. The kimonos

での雛人形や人形の原型、製作道具や材料、製作工程の解説パネルなど約 50点が展示されている。

which these dolls wear are not complete, but are instead made with

Mr. Eishun Tsukada, a prize-winningdol l maker and owner of Atel ier
Tsukada. He became a disciple of his
uncle who was the master of kimekomi
doll-making soon after he graduatedfrom high school. At the age of 24
he became independent and started
his own atelier. In the small museumof kimekomi dolls found inside his
atelier, various kinds of hina dolls,
bases, tools and materials are shownto enable you to become more familiar
with kimekomi dolls.

that the edges of the cloth can be tucked inside grooves and sealed

2“OBUSE TOWN”

many pieces of cut cloth. The base of the wooden doll is carved soin place with glue. The key to making refined kimekomi is where
and how you create these grooves.
At Atelier Tsukada, well-trained craftsmen make kimekomi dolls
from the beginning to the end, including base-making, carving,
dressing, face-painting and hair-dressing. The main dolls made atAtelier Tsukada are hina dolls, which are the emperor and empress
dolls made for the Girls’ Festival day on March 3rd. The atelier also
makes famous beckoning cats (maneki-neko), birds and animals.
Easy courses in making a small ball or a small owl with the kimekomi technique are available with an advance reservation.
Tsukada Kobo(Atelier Tsukada)
2-11-7 Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3622-4579
8 minutes on foot from Oshiage Station Exit A3 of the Toei Asakusa Line andthe Hanzomon Line
10 minutes on foot from Tokyo Skytree Station of the Tobu Isezaki Line

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

32

33

TOKYO・NAGANO

小布施町

In airports and sightseeing spots in Japan, you will always encounter牛に引かれて小布施に遊ぶ

北斎の生誕地である墨田区を堪能した後、東京駅から北陸新幹線に乗って長野へ。かつて長野といえば、在来線の特急「あさま」に 3
時間弱揺られて行く場所であったが、現在は、大宮の次の停車駅が『お裾 分け文 化 』がもたらした小 布 施の宝町の北西に北信五岳と称される、斑尾山、妙高山、黒姫山、戸隠山、飯縄山。そして東に雁田山。その山々に縁取られて、リンゴ、ブド

長野である北陸新幹線「かがやき」に乗れば約 1 時間 20 分。あっ

ウ、栗の畑が広がっている。他の地域に比べると、ビニールハウスという間の到着だ。移動時間が半分になったことで、東京・長野間が少ないように感じられるためか、春夏には緑の濃淡のみで描けるの心理的な距離が本当に近くなった。
「牛に引かれて善光寺参り」
でであろう美しい田園風景が広がる。

有名な信州善光寺は、長野駅からバスで 15 分であるが、今回は、墨江戸時代からその名声を国中に響き渡らせた、採れたての栗で作った

田区の牛嶋神社の黒牛に引かれるような気持ちで、もう一つの北斎

お菓子や栗おこわを求めて、年間約 1 万 1 千人（2017 年現在、小布ゆかりの地、小布施を訪ねる。

施町の資料による）という町民の数の 100 倍以上の観光客が訪れる。

Now that you have visited Sumida, the birthplace of Katsushika“All that I have drawn by the age of 70 is nothing but a joke. At

Hokusai, a visit to Obuse is absolutely recommended. Hokusai

the age of 73, it seems that I understood something about skel-

loved Obuse, and in return he was loved by the locals. The trip toetal structures of animals and physical compositions of plants.

Obuse is not difficult even though you have to change trains. First,

At the age of 80, I will be able to improve my drawing skills. At

take the Nagano Shinkansen to Nagano. The journey takes less than

the age of 90, I will master the secrets of art. At the age of 100,

one and a half hours. From Nagano, the Nagano Dentetsu Express

I will reach God’s level. And at the age of 110, all that I draw

will take you to Obuse in half an hour. You may notice from the
Nagano Prefecture, where the Winter Olympic Games were held in
1998. Nagano is an area that experiences heavy snowfall in Winter.
In fact, there are many well-known ski resorts in Nagano Prefecturesuch as Hakuba, Madarao, Shiga and Nozawa. However, in Obuse
it does not snow that much, as it is not located in mountains but ina basin.
There is another reason we recommend this trip: the Nagano
Dentetsu Express can also take you to see snow monkeys soaking in
open-air hot springs during Winter. The wild snow monkeys warmthemselves by taking a bath in the springs. If you stay on the Nagano Dentetsu Express bound for Yudanaka to the final stop, you willfind the famous Snow Monkey Park.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

34

will appear to be alive.”

The Legacy of Obuse Left by Hokusainame of the station where you transfer that Obuse is located in the

Hokusai or Snow Monkeys?

小布施町は、長野県北東部にある面積 20㎢にも満たない小さな町。

35

These are the words of Hokusai, which is a part of the afterword
of A Hundred Views of Mt. Fuji published when he was 75 years
old. His dream was not realized, regrettably, as he passed away at
the age of 90. Immortality has always been a dream for humans.
Hokusai was mortal, but his works are everlasting and transcendtime and space. Hokusai was born in Sumida and he spent most of
his life there. However, he visited Obuse, a small town located in
the northern part of Nagano prefecture, four times in total and left
magnificent works there. You may be able to understand the reason
for his gratitude by visiting Obuse yourself !

しかし、小布施の魅力は栗だけでは語れない。小布施の町を歩くと感じられる、町に脈々と受け継がれている「もてなしの心」も大きな魅力なのだ。
「お」をつけてしまうと、あまりに使い古され、本来の意
味からはずれてしまったようにさえ感じさせる「おもてなし」とは、一線を画す小布施の「もてなし」。江戸時代から、菜種や綿花を栽培し、菜種油や綿布を販売することによって得た富もあり、小布施は裕TOKYO・NAGANO

福な土地であった。また、町の西側を流れる千曲川や、善光寺参拝に利用されていた街道に通じる脇街道を利用した交通の要衝であるとともに、地域有数の交易地でもあり、月 6 回開かれた六斎市には多くの人々が訪れていた。加えて、自然環境が作り出す素の美しさもある。こうした背景が、「小布施人気質」を生んだのであろう。
「小布施
は、外から来た人には背伸びをせず、自分たちの日常をお裾分けする文化が根付いている」という。

Obuse is famous for its chestnuts. In Autumn, many tourists visit
Obuse seeking sweets and dishes made from freshly harvested
chestnuts, just as many people visit Alba in Italy for its truffles.
But the key reason Obuse is beautiful is not its chestnuts, but thetownspeople’s spirit of generosity, which you will feel strongly when
you stroll through the town. A citizen of Obuse tells us that, “We
do not try to make ourselves appear bigger toward visitors. We justshare what we have with them. This is something fundamental to
our philosophy.” Obuse was a prosperous town through the tradeof rapeseed oil and cotton cloth during the Edo period. It was also
one of the important centers of trade because of its neighboring
river and roads. Many people visited the local market held six times
a month. Thus, the locals have always been open-minded towards

小布施町提供画像

visitors. The area has also been gifted with beautiful landscapes.

Town of Obuse

The locals are proud of their hometown and they are excited toshare their happiness with visitors.

「 家の中は自分のもの、家の外は皆のもの」−修景された小布施を楽しむ

1976 年に信州小布施北斎館が開館した当時は、「田んぼの中の美術館」と呼ばれたほど、周囲には何もなかったという。しかし次第に、小布施は「北斎の町」として脚光を浴びるようになり、観光客が激増。
観光客が増えることは良いことであるが、必ずしも地域にとって良いことだけをもたらすとは限らない。一気に交通量が増えれば、町民の毎日の生活に支障をきたしてしまう。そこで、北斎館の近くに高井鴻山の旧宅を改築して「高井鴻山記念館」を作る計画が持ち上がった際に、周辺の整備が計画された。その名も、「小布施町並み修景事業」。

Hokusai-kan (Hokusai Museum) used to be called “a museum
in a paddy field” when it was built in 2015. There was absolutely
nothing around. However, after Obuse moved into the limelight as

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

36

37

TOKYO・NAGANO

“the town of Hokusai,” the number of visitors to the town increased

book Complexity and Contradiction in Architecture. Historic anddramatically. Normally an increase in visitors is a good thing, which

modern buildings, daily lives and tourism should not be in conflict,every town, city and country desires for, but a sudden increase isbut coexist. In Obuse, private houses on the national road which

not always good news for the residents. The increase in people andbecame heavy with traffic were moved to the quiet outer parts oftraffic can hinder their daily activities. As such the town of Obuse

town. In their stead, shops and banks that preferred busy streets

commenced an epoch-making project called “Shukei,” which literal-

were relocated there. These relocations were made by exchanging

ly means Townscape Modification Project. This was timed with thethe landownership. Old houses in the area were kept but the con-夫氏

creation of the Takai Kozan Memorial, which involved remodelingstruction of new houses was not banned. The colors of roofs and

Mr. Tsugio Ichimura (the 12th headof the family), the president of Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery andchestnut sweets shop, Obuse-do.

the former house of Takai Kozan. With this project, the town

walls, styles and materials were required to be harmonious with thecenter of Obuse was reinvigorated!

surrounding environment. In the town center you may notice that桝一市村酒造場、小布施堂社長 市村次

there no vending machines, which you usually find everywhere intowns and cities in Japan. Actually there are a few vending machines「修景とは、単なる町並み保存とは異なり、既存のものを変えること

here, but they are hidden by clever designs! Moreover, the projectによって、地域住民は楽しい日常生活を維持し、その結果として、観

covered private gardens, roadside flower beds, open spaces and foot-

光客もその楽しさを体感したいと訪れる町を作ること」と語るのは、

paths covered with wild flowers and plants. Through this project

修景事業に深く関わった、桝一市村酒造場と栗菓子の小布施堂を経Obuse became a beautiful and comfortable town for both residents

営する市村次夫氏。12 代目当主は、現代の高井鴻山と形容すべき人

and tourists. Interestingly, the man who was deeply involved in this

Obuse with a “Modified” Town Center“Inside the house belongs to the family,
but outside belongs to everybody.”

物であった。

initiative, Mr. Tsugio Ichimura, is a descendant of Takai Kozan, the

鴻山の哲学は、100 年以上を経て現在の小布施の町づくりにも生きて

man who invited and hosted Hokusai in the mid-19th century. The

いたのである。
「小布施町並み修景事業」では、周囲の景観との調和

spirit of hospitality shown by Takai Kozan has been passed on toと美しいまちづくりのための指針「環境デザイン協力基準（住まいづthe 21th century!

くりマニュアル）」が作成され、住民の間に「外はみんなのもの、内は自分たちのもの」という意識が芽生えた。ヨーロッパの美しい町並
みがそうであるように、小布施の町には同系色の同じ様式の屋根の建物が並ぶ。町の中心部には、原色を使った大きな看板や自動販売機を見かけない。調べてみると、「環境デザイン協力基準」に、「自動販売
機は、道路に面して直接設置しないように心がける。表に設置する
時は、商品ボックスが見えないように工夫する。
」と書かれていた。

Many old towns in Japan aim to conserve traditional houses and44

townscapes, like ancient mysteries preserved in amber. In other

信州小布施北斎館周辺では、車の振動や騒音に悩まされていた国道に面した個人宅と、国道に面している方が都合の良い銀行や店舗が土地を交換。地域
住民と観光客の双方にとって利のある配置に変えた。町中には小径や通り抜けできるところなどもあり、歩いて楽しい。道路を舗装しているアスファル
トの色も土色に近い。

words, the traditional area is conserved like a museum for tourists
to enjoy but not for citizens to live in comfortably. Obuse’s town
project, on the other hand, aimed to satisfy both the townspeople
and tourists. The goal of the project was premised on the concept
of “ambiguity” (that is, not a choice between two things, but theacceptance of both of them), which Robert Venturi discusses in his

Small alleys make town strolling in
Obuse very enjoyable!

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

39

38

4

TOKYO・NAGANO

5

まるで猫になったように、いくつもの小径を自由気ままに通り抜け、

オープンガーデンの目印 その 1：

丹精を込めて手入れされた庭を眺めるのは、植物園や公園の花々を「Welcome to My Garden」という小さな看板を入り口に掲げていること。

愛でるものとはまた少し趣が違って、身近な喜びに心が躍る。運が良ければ庭のオーナーと直接話して、園芸の情報交換、はたまた地This house has a small signboard stating “Welcome to My Garden” to showthat it is part of the Open Garden
project.

域の「地元オンリー」の情報も得られる楽しさもある。小布施人気質である「お裾分け文化」が生み出す「地元と旅人の楽しさの共有」

6

がこのオープンガーデンでも発揮されている。

オープンガーデンの目印 その 2：

小布施町が面積 20㎢に満たない小さな町であることは、旅人にはむ

足元の小さな看板が「Welcome to My
Garden」となっていること。その 2 つが満たされていれば、個人宅でも店でしろ好都合。町全体を歩いて楽しむことが可能だ。ただ、いつでもできる。

何でも買えるコンビニエンスストアが１ブロックごとにある生活にも寺でも自由に入って庭を見ることが慣れているのであれば、夏の暑い日に小布施の町を散策する際には、If you find a small signboard that says
“Welcome to My Garden,” you canenter the garden.

水筒を持ち歩くか、カフェで一休みすることをお薦めする。

7
ちなみに、足元の小さな看板がこのような場合は入れない。

オープン
ガーデン

小布施の「お裾分け文化」を最も象徴するのが、2000 年に始まった

If you find the signboard at your feetas shown in this photo, it means thatthe garden is temporarily closed tovisitors.

Obuse is a small town, less than 20 ㎢ . In general, bigger is better,as Princess Amber of Sofia the First sings. When it comes to the sizeof towns, however, smaller is better for town strolling! You can walkオープンガーデン。38 軒から始まり、今では 120 軒を超える個人

all over the town of Obuse without difficulty. But when it is hot

宅が丹精込めて作った自分の庭を開放している。「家の中は自分のin Summer, it is better to take a bottle of water or take a tea break

もの、家の外は皆のもの」という考えの下、近隣の人々はもちろん、

sometimes in cafés, as there are no convenience stores or vending

観光客も自由に通り抜けできるように庭を開放している。

machines in the town center unlike most other cities in Japan.

猫のように人のお庭を
自由に通る

Flowers are blooming all year around in public flowerbeds in
Obuse and tending to the flowers is a voluntarily activity among
the residents. What is exciting about Obuse is that you can enter
the gardens of private houses to appreciate these flowers and also totake shortcuts! This initiative is called Open Gardens, which began

Passing ThroughPrivate Gardens
Like Cats Do

Open Gardens

in 2000 with 38 houses. Now more than 120 houses take part inthis activity. The spirit that informs this activity is, “Inside the house
belongs to the family but outside belongs to everybody.” By allowing

5

6

visitors to view their own gardens, the residents of Obuse can share
their happiness and pride with visitors. If you are lucky, you may beable to chat with owners, or just exchange greetings if you are notfluent in Japanese.
Passing through private gardens like cats do will make you feel athome. Flower viewing in parks is very soothing but viewing a housegarden is something else!

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

40

41

TOKYO・NAGANO

7

高井鴻山
記念館

墨田区から小布施までの道のりは、距離にして約 260 キロ。駒形から首都高 6 号向島線に乗り、外環道を経由して関越自動車道、上信越自動車道を走れば約 3 時間半の快適なドライブコースである。しかし、徒歩ではいったいどのくらい時間がかかるのであろう。調べてみると、優に 33 万歩を超え、約 50 時間。ちなみに、自転車では

小 布 施の北極星、
高 井 鴻山を知る

約 19 時間（休憩なし）の行程である。江戸時代には歩く他に選択肢はなかったものの、よほど大きなモチベーションがない限り、その距離を歩いて訪れることはないだろう。実際には、宿場町に立ち寄りながら、6 日間かけてのんびりと小布施を訪問した北斎は当時83 歳。「冨嶽三十六景」や「諸国名橋奇覧」の作品を描くために旅慣れていたであろうとはいえ、その並々ならぬ体力と、小布施への熱い思いを想像するに難くない。そんな北斎を鴻山は歓待し、2 回目来訪時には「碧漪軒」というアトリエを用意し、町の人々も当たり前のように温かく受け入れた。
北斎は半年余りも鴻山邸に滞在し、その後も計 4 回、延べにして 2 年余り、小布施を来訪、逗留していると伝わっている。
鴻山の屋敷の一部を整備して作られた高井鴻山記念館。鴻山の祖父が建て、鴻山が書斎兼サロンとして北斎らと歓談していた翛然楼は中に入って見学することができる。北斎が創作活動に没頭できるよ
うにと鴻山がアトリエとして提供した「碧漪軒」は鴻山邸を出たす

The distance between Sumida and Obuse is about 260 kilometers or

ぐの場所にあった。京風木造建築の翛然楼の縁側は、北斎と鴻山が162 miles. If you go to Obuse by car now, taking highways, it takes

小布施の豪農商で、飢饉の際は私財を惜しみなく困窮者の救済のために充てたという高井家 11 代目跡継ぎとして生まれた高井鴻山。15 歳の時から 2 度の京都遊学で、書、絵画、国学、和歌、儒学、漢詩などを超一流の師に教えを受けた後、28 歳で江戸に出て、さらに学問を深めている頃に、「冨嶽三十六景（ふがくさんじゅうろっけい）」で人気を博していた葛飾北斎と出会う。

Takai Kozan (1806-1883), 36 years
younger than Hokusai, was born intoa wealthy farming and merchant family in Obuse. He was the 11th-generation head of his family, and his father
and ancestors were generous enoughto contribute to save the destituteduring times of famine. At the ageof fifteen he transferred to Kyoto toacquire various knowledge and skills
such as calligraphy, drawing, classicalliterature, waka poems, Confucianism
and classical Chinese poetry. Later, at
the age of twenty eight, he continued
his studies in Edo, where he met Hokusai. Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji
was very popular at that time.

about fifty hours in a row with more than 330,000 steps to take!
(And just for your information, it would take nineteen hours bybicycle without a break!) In the Edo period, more than 150 years
ago, there were no alternatives to going on foot. It is said that Hokusai, at the age of 83, took six days to reach Obuse from Sumida.
This sounds like a decent traveling itinerary, as you could stay in a
new place each night. However, you may also think: “what drove an
83-year-old old man to walk six days to visit a place 260 kilometers
away from home?” Even though he was not an ordinary old man, hemust have been strongly motivated to do this, otherwise he would
have stayed in his cozy home. Takai Kozan gave him a cordial reception and let him use a small house in his garden as an atelier, whichis called Hekiiken. Hokusai stayed in Hekiiken for over six months,
and later he returned to Obuse three times. In the last stage of his
life, Hokusai spent two years in total in Obuse.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

42

43に上がり、静かに雁田山の方角を眺めていると、北斎は、岩松院の天井絵の構想もここで考えていたのであろうかと、さらに想像が膨らんでいく。北斎の目には、絶筆と伝わる「富士越 龍 図」の龍のよTakai Kozan,
the North Starof Obuse

But how long would it take if you went there on foot? It would takeTakai Kozan Kinenkan (Takai Kozan Memorial)

only three and a half hours. It is not a far-flung driving destination.

二人並んで腰かけ、話に花を咲かせていたと伝えられる場所。二階

うに、小布施の町を見守る雁田山の上を悠然と飛ぶ鳳凰が見えていたのかもしれないと思えてくる。

In Takai Kozan Memorial you can go inside Hekiiken and Yuzenro
which was used as a reading room and a salon. There, Kozan used totalk with important people like Hokusai. The engawa (lit. a veranda-like place in the house) was the place where Hokusai and Kozan
usually sat and talked together. The view toward Mt. Karita fromthe engawa must have inspired Hokusai. He may have imagined
a dragon going up in the sky as he drew in The Dragon of Smoke
Escaping from Mount Fuji or a guardian phoenix flying over themountain to watch over the people of Obuse.

TOKYO・NAGANO

翛然楼は当時、兵学者であり、朱子学者でもある松代藩士の佐久間象 山をはじめ、尊皇攘夷派の志士らなども訪れ、芸術はもちろん政治の話で盛り上がるサロンのような存在であった。
「鴻山さんは、
い
つも他人のためを思って行動していた人だったと思います」と、高

信州小布施
北斎館

2015 年に開館当時の建物を増築し、全面改装された北斎館。「冨嶽三十六景」をはじめとした木版浮世絵（錦絵）はもちろん、掛け軸、屏風、肉筆画、書簡などを多く展示しているのが小布施の北斎館の特徴である。北斎館の建設のきっかけの一つにもなった、小布施滞在中に手渡されていたであろう町民所蔵の肉筆画や、小布施滞在中の日課

井鴻山記念館の主席研究員を務める金田功子氏は語る。

北 斎が小 布 施に“I think Kozan-san was a man who was always thoughtful of others,” says Mrs. Koko Kaneda, the Chief Researcher of Takai Kozan

残した宝を鑑 賞するとして描いていた「日新除魔」と題した獅子の絵も見ることができる。北斎の斬新な色づかいを見慣れている我々には、その墨画はとても新鮮で、北斎のもう一つの素顔を垣間見るような感覚を覚える。

Memorial, in Yuzenro. In this hall, many philosophers, scholars,
artists and even samurai have met.

It was not only Takai Kozan who extended a warm welcome to
Hokusai, who stayed in Obuse for four years in total. The residents

葛飾北斎絶筆と言われる肉筆画「富士越龍図」（信州小布施北斎館所蔵）

The Dragon of Smoke Escaping from
Mount Fuji, 1849, Katsushika Hokusai. This is one of the last works by
Hokusai.

高井家の懐事情は顧みず、その資産の多くを、芸術振興や困窮する

also shared their happy lives in beautiful Obuse with him, which

民を助けるため、ひいては国のために使った高井鴻山には温 柔 敦厚

can be surmised from the fact that many residents had Hokusai’sという言葉が思い浮かぶ。歴史の表舞台に名前が列挙されることはworks into their homes. To these residents, the artworks wereなかったが、100 年以上の時を経て、今もなお、故郷である小布施

sentimental hand-drawn works by a friend, and so when ‘collectors’

町を日本で有数の観光地にし、多くの人から愛されることに寄与しstarted to come to Obuse after World War II to buy Hokusai’sているのだ。

works, some were sold for a small fraction of their real value. The
town mayor then realized the loss of the town’s treasures and高井鴻山記念館

decided to exhibit Hokusai’s works for the residents. To reevaluate

http://www.obusekanko.jp/enjoys/museum/obuse142.php
http://www.town.obuse.nagano.jp/site/takaikouzan/

Hokusai’s art, he started a project that established a museum of
Hokusai’s works. The construction was completed in 1976 and it

長野県上高井郡小布施町大字小布施 805-1
TEL：026-247-4049

was named Hokusai-Kan (lit. House of Hokusai).

開館時間：9:00 〜 17:00（ 7 、 8 月は 9:00 〜 18：00 、元日は 10:00 〜 15:00 ）休館日：12 月 31 日
入館料：大人 300 円、高校生 150 円、中学生以下無料

Takai Kozan used most of his assets to support artists, regardless of
his own economic situation, to aid people experiencing hardshipand to make Japan a better nation. He, himself, did not appear on
the front stage of the history but he was always influential behindthe scenes. His influence is still alive, making Obuse one of the best
spots to visit in Japan.
Takai Kozan Kinen-kan (Takai Kozan Memorial)

金田功子氏、高井鴻山記念館主席研究員

Mrs. Koko Kaneda, the Chief Researcher of Takai Kozan Memorial

805-1, Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun, Nagano Prefecture
Tel: 026-247-4049
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
in July and August, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on New Years Day)
Closing day: December 31
Admission: 300yen (150yen for high school students,
free of charge for children aged 15 years and under)

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

44

45

TOKYO・NAGANO

a Phoenix, which are said to have been ordered by Takai Kozan.
Raging Waves will remind you of the famous woodblock print,
Under the Wave off Kanagawa, but the waves are more detailed
and forceful. The froth of the waves swirls toward the center, which
may express the ocean’s eternal quality. The edges of the pictures areplated with gold upon which flowers and birds that are unobservedin Japan are painted. They are imaginary creatures and angel-likefigures with wings. Did Hokusai want to express heaven? If theedges were heaven, would the center of the swirling waves be thehell? These are joint works of Hokusai and Kozan; the primarily
sketch was made by Hokusai and colored by Kozan.
During his stay in Obuse, Hokusai drew a lion for protection
against the evil as his morning task. He did not stop drawing until「怒涛」祭屋台の天井絵（小布施町上町
自治会所有・北斎館管理）“Doto” (lit. Raging Waves), a pair ofceiling paintings drawn for a festival
float.
[Courtesy of Residents’ Associationof Kamimachi of Obuse-machi and
Hokusai-kan]

北斎館のメインディッシュは、祭屋台の天井絵として描かれた、「男浪」「女浪」と称される「怒涛」、「龍」と「鳳凰」である。これらは鴻山が北斎に依頼して完成させたと伝えられている。
「冨嶽三十六景」の中でも人気のある「神奈川沖浪裏」を想起させる波が、陰陽を表す太極図のように重なり、渦を巻くように中心に向かっている波のしぶきが、「無限」を感じさせる。我々が住む狭い日本を越え、無限の宇宙の中に存在する地球を描いているものなのではないかとも思わせる作品だ。
「男浪」と「女浪」のそれぞれの縁には、浪を囲むように縁絵が描かれている。金箔の上に描かれた縁絵には、日本には咲いていないような花や、鳥、想像上の神獣に加えて、羽が生えている人間（天使か？）が描かれている。これは、北斎が下絵を描き、鴻山が彩色をしたという小布施ならではの二人の合作でもある。
北斎は、小布施滞在中の朝の日課として「日新除魔」と題した獅子の絵を描いた。来客があろうとも描き上がるまでは、誰も中へと通さなかったという。しかも、描き終わると丸めて軒下に捨て、娘の応為がそれを拾い集めていたとか。
「画狂老人卍」と名乗っていた頃の北斎の姿を想像するだけで頬が緩む。
「日課の獅子（日新除魔）閏九月廿一日」（北斎館所蔵）The highlights of Hokusai-Kan are the two pairs of ceiling paintings drawn for two festival floats: Raging Waves and A Dragon and

A lion (Hokusai’s daily work) dated
September 21st[Courtesy of Hokusai-kan]

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

47

46

TOKYO・NAGANOhe finished, even when a guest came. Once he finished, his adhesion
to the drawing would dissolve, after which he would throw it away
into the garden. It was the morning task of his daughter, Oui, topick it up!

北斎が小布施に残した物の大きさは計り知れない。
「お裾分け」
とい「大鳳凰図」岩松院所蔵[Courtesy of Gansho-in]

う小布施人気質を備えた高井鴻山をはじめとした小布施の町の人々に残された北斎の作品は、小布施という田園の広がる小さな町を一級の名所へと昇格させた。メディチ家が支えたレオナルド・ダ・ヴィ
ンチやミケランジェロなどイタリアルネサンス期を彩る芸術家たちの作品が、フィレンツェの町を一級の名所にしているのと同様に。
そして、「版画だけが北斎に非ず」という言葉を実感させられる展示品を間近で見られる醍醐味が、ここ北斎館にはある。

曹洞宗 梅洞山
岩松院

北斎館から小布施の東側を守る雁田山の方角へ約 2 キロ。徒歩で 30
分弱、自転車であれば 15 分程度。ブドウやリンゴの木々が広がる雁田山の山裾に岩松院はある。1 時間に 1 本程度出ている町内周遊のシャトルバスを利用するのもお薦めだ。

信州小布施北斎館

八 方 睨みの鳳 凰の目は、

http://www.hokusai-kan.com/

北 極 星のごとく

長野県上高井郡小布施町大字小布施 485

The Treasure that Upgraded the Town

Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Kan (Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Museum)

雁田山は標高が 786 メートル。
「そびえる」という表現を使うのにはあ

小 布 施を見 守る

TEL：026-247-5206
開館時間：9:00 〜 17:00（ 7 、 8 月のみ 9:00 〜 18:00 ）※入館受付は閉館 30 分前まで
※ 1 月 1 日は時間短縮開館 10:00 〜 15:00
休館日：12 月 31 日
入館料：企画展 大人 1,000 円 / 高校生 700 円 / 中学生以下無料

まり適していない山であるが故に、小布施の町を温かく見守っている里山という印象を受ける。しかし、登ってみると、斜面は案外に急勾配の所が多い。雁田山登山は猛者に譲るとして、岩松院の中へと入る。

Your appreciation of Obuse’s treasures left by Hokusai can continue
with a visit to a temple called Gansho-in, which is two kilometers
away from the Hokusai Museum toward Mount Karita. If you gothere on foot it will take about half an hour. If you hire a bicycle,

The treasures that Hokusai left in Obuse were prodigious, and they

you can get there in 15 minutes. You can also take a shuttle-bus.

are true gifts to the generous people of Obuse and to Takai Kozan.
Hokusai’s artistic mark upon the town is just as profound as theworks left in Firenze by Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo, who

岩松院は、550 年ほど前に雁田城主の命によって建てられた寺であり、were also supported by a benefactor – Lorenzo, il Magnifico, de’

黒田家の家臣に大量の酒を飲ませ、日本号と呼ばれた名槍を褒美としてMedici.

取らせたことで有名な、豊臣秀吉の家臣である福島正則が眠る場所である。猛者として名を馳せつつも、悲しい最期を迎えた福島正則が眠る
岩松院に華やかさを加えた人物がいた。高井鴻山である。鴻山は、高Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Kan (Shinshu Obuse Hokusai Museum)

井家の菩提寺でもある岩松院の本堂の天井画を描くよう北斎に依頼

485 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun, Nagano Prefecture
Tel: 026-247-5206
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
in July and August, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on New Years Day)
Entry is allowed up until 30 minutes before the museum closes.
Closing Day: December 31
Admission for Special Exhibitions: 1,000yen, 700yen for high school students,
free for children 15 years old and under.

した。天井画と言えば、ミケランジェロが教皇ユリウス 2 世の依頼で描いた、バチカンのシスティーナ礼拝堂のものが世界的に有名である
が、システィーナ礼拝堂のそれは、ミケランジェロが首を天井の方へ反らせた状態で立ったまま描いたと言われている。当時 88 歳の葛飾
北斎もミケランジェロのようにして天井画を描いたのであろうか。

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

48

49

TOKYO・NAGANO

30 代半ばのミケランジェロには可能な作業であったとしても、老齢

this temple is, though, the inside. No one would ever imagine thatの北斎には、その体勢を維持するのは不可能であったはずだ。岩松院

there is a treasure left by the world-famous Hokusai in this small,の天井画は、
幅 6.3 メートル×奥行き 5.5 メートル（21 畳）の大画面

ordinary temple. Takai Kozan ordered a ceiling painting to Hokusai

を 12 分割にし、床に並べて彩絵した後に、天井に取り付けられたと

for his family temple, and so Hokusai painted in vivid colors a

聞いて安堵感を覚える。絵の余白部分に、絵皿の跡が発見されたこと

phoenix with its feathers spread out, interspersed with leaves of

で床の上で描かれたことが判明した。桐材の板に白土を塗り重ね金箔

pine, laurel and plantain. When it comes to ceiling paintings,の砂子が蒔かれた下地に、朱、鉛丹、石黄、岩緑青、花紺青、べろ藍

those of the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City are famous worldwide.

等の顔料を膠で溶いた絵の具で描かれ、4400 枚の金箔が使われていMichelangelo, in his mid-thirties, painted in a standing position inるという。金箔を除く画材の材料費は 150 両。日本銀行金融研究所

extremely uncomfortable conditions, with his head tilted upwards,

貨幣博物館の資料によれば、大工の手間賃として換算すると 1 両＝

according to Giorgio Vasari. Hokusai was 89 years old at the time of

30 〜 40 万円であるということ。その高価な材料費は、もちろん依頼

Kozan’s order, and so it would have been too tough for an old man

主である高井鴻山が負担した。

if he had to paint Michelangelo’s way. As such the 6.3 meter x 5.5

どこから見ても、天井いっぱいに翼を広げた鳳凰とは目が合うことか

meter-wide ceiling was divided into twelve panels and placed on theら、「八方睨み鳳凰」と呼ばれる天井画。作製から約 170 年という長floor. After the painting was completed, each panel was put on the

い月日が経過しているにもかかわらず、北斎の鳳凰の色彩は鮮烈であceiling. This was in fact proven later when a mark of a palette wasる。特に、賢者の石とも呼ばれている辰砂の赤が心を奪う。驚くべきfound on a blank space of the ceiling! Its brilliant colors were from

ことに、塗り替えは一度も行われていないという。まるで、画狂老人

various kinds of precious paints and 4,400 sheets of gold leaves, all

北斎の魂が鳳凰に乗り移り、平均的であることを求める恵まれた時代

of which was donated by Kozan.

を生きる我々に活を入れるべく睨みをきかしているようだ。この天井This ceiling picture is named A Phoenix Staring in Eight Directions

画は、墨田区の牛嶋神社に奉納した「須佐之男 命 厄神退治之図」を描

as the Phoenix is looking right at you from wherever you see it.

き上げた後の大作として知られ、小布施への 4 回目の滞在時、約 1 年

The colors remain the same even after 170 years. Surprisingly, it has

かけて描かれたものだと伝えられている。この翌年に、北斎は 90 歳

never been repainted. The Phoenix stays in this world on behalf ofで自らも星となったのである。

Hokusai. You will feel as if it were staring at you, shouting: “Livean extraordinary life!” This is said to be one of the last works by

The Phoenix with an Eye
Like the North Star

Gansho-in (Gansho-in Temple)

Hokusai that was completed in one year during his fourth and the
曹洞宗 梅洞山 岩松院

last visit in Obuse after he painted Susanoo-no-Mikoto Conquering

http://www.gansho-in.or.jp/

the Evils of Plague (which you saw in the Ushijima Shrine in

長野県上高井郡小布施町雁田 615
TEL：026-247-5504
開館時間：9:00 〜 17:00（ 11 月は 9：00 〜 16：30 、 12 〜 3 月は 9：30 〜 16：00 ）Sumida). One year later after the accomplishment of this ceiling
painting, Hokusai became the eternally shining “Polaris,” observed※拝観受付は閉館 30 分前まで

休観日：法要日（ＨＰ参照）
拝館料：300 円（小学生 100 円）

even in the Southern Hemisphere, which leads people around theworld to Sumida and Obuse.

Gansho-in is an old temple established by the Order of the Lord of
the Castle, which used to be in Mount Karita about 550 years ago.

Gansho-in(Gansho-in Temple)

This is Takai Kozan’s family temple. The sight of an old temple at

615 Karita, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun, Nagano Prefecture
Tel: 026-247-5504
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
in November, 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from December to March).
Entry is allowed up until 30 minutes before the temple closes.
Closing day: the days when memorial service is held (Please refer to the website.)
Admission: 300 yen (100 yen for children 12 years old and under)

the foot of the mountain located in the middle of a field is awesome.
This is a typical view of the countryside, but it can also look a little
surreal, as if it were straight from of a Ghibli film. The highlight ofBeyond Ordinary Itineraries

50

51

TOKYO・NAGANOThe Sumida Cityin Tokyo Metropolitan— Tokyo in your pockets

One-Day Trip
To Sumida
INVITATION to SUMIDA
An east-end town where Hokusai was born and spent most of his life, andwhere the tradition of craftsmanship is still alive. Sumida is the fusion of oldand new cultures and is full of tourist attractions. Many visit Sumida to see
the Tokyo Skytree but the area has much more to offer, in particular sitesthat provide an alternative insight into life in Tokyo.

TIME SCHEDULE（旧安田庭園）Kyu Yasuda Teien (Former Yasuda Garden)

TIME

08:30

SCHEDULE

TRANSPORTATION

Honjo-Azumabashi Station of
Walk (7min.)Toei Asakusa Line（本所吾妻橋駅）

08:40 Ushijima Shrine（牛嶋神社）

Walk (20min.) or
Walk to Oshiage Station (15min.)to take Sightseeing Round Trip
Bus of the South Route.

09:30 Hossho-ji（法性寺）

Sightseeing Round Trip Busof the South Route (15min.)

10:30

Sumida Hokusai Museum（すみだ北斎美術館）

Walk (3min.)

12:00 Lunch in the Ryogoku Area（両国） Walk (10min.)
13:00

Edo Tokyo Museum（江戸東京博物館）

14:30 Edo Kiriko-kan（江戸切子館）

Walk (25min.) or Taxi
Walk (3min.)

15:30 Atelier Sogei-kan（アトリエ創藝館） Walk (10min.)
17:00 Tokyo Sky Tree（東京スカイツリー） Taxi (10min.)19:00

Ryogoku Kokugikan（両国国技館）

Atelier Sogei-kan

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries*Sightseeing Round Trip Buses operate via three routes, all departing from
Oshiage Station. A 300 yen one-day ticket is valid for all the three routes. Major
tourist attractions on the North-West Route (Red Bus): Seiko Museum; Chomeiji and; Muko-jima traditional restaurant area. Major attractions on the South
Route (Purple Bus): Hossho-ji; Sumida Hokusai Museum; Edo Tokyo Museum;Japanese Sword Museum and; Kokugikan.

（アトリエ創藝館）

52

Dinner in the Mukojima Area

（向島）

53

TOKYO・NAGANOWHAT TO SEE■Ushijima Jinja (Ushijima Shrine)（牛嶋神社）
A small but historic shrine located inside Sumida Park next to Kototoi Bridge, over
the Sumida River. Hokusai left a votive picture when he was 86 years old. In the site,
there is a statue of an ox that is believed to have healing power.
1-4-5 Mukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区向島 1-4-5）
TEL: 03-3622-0973■Hossho-ji(Hossho Temple)（法性寺）
A Buddhist temple dedicated to the Deity of the North Star, which Hokusai
worshipped.
5-7-7 Narihira, Sumida-ku（墨田区業平 5-7-7）
TEL: 03-3625-3838

Ushijima Jinja (Ushijima Shrine)（牛嶋神社）

Hossho-ji(Hossho Temple)（法性寺）■Kyu Yasuda Teien (Former Yasuda Garden)（旧安田庭園）
A public park which used to be a samurai residence in the Edo Period, which was
also famous for its pond. The residence was inherited by an entrepreneur named
Zenjiro Yasuda who started the financial conglomerate in the Meiji Period. As
the residence was destroyed by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, the land wasrenovated as a park.
1-12-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku（墨田区横網 1-12-1）
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
from June to August)Closing Days: from Dec. 29 to Jan. 1
Kyu Yasuda Teien (Former Yasuda Garden)（旧安田庭園）■Sumida Hokusai Museum（すみだ北斎美術館）
A museum in a super modern building that gives off a silver brilliance. The
museum has a collection consisting of about 1,800 examples of Hokusaiʼs artworks.
The museum also has exhibits that demonstrate how Hokusai worked anddocument what his hometown, Sumida, was like in the Edo period.
2-7-2 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku（墨田区亀沢 2-7-2）
TEL: 03-5777-8600
Opening Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.

■Ekoin Temple（回向院）
A temple established by shogun to commemorate the victims of the big fire in themid 17th century, which destroyed 60 to 70% of the city of Edo. It used to be asumo venue during the Edo and Meiji periods.
2-8-10, Ryogoku, Sumida-ku（墨田区両国 2-8-10）
TEL: 03-3634-7776■Tokyo Skytree（東京スカイツリー）
The tallest free-standing broadcast tower in the world, standing at 634 meterstall. Besides the great view from the observation deck, the shops and restaurants(including an aquarium and a planetarium) in the tower are fun to explore.
1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida-ku（墨田区押上 1-1-2）
TEL: 0570-55-0634
Opening Hours: 8:00-22:00 (Observation Deck)■The Seiko Museum（セイコーミュージアム）
A museum established as a part of a 100th anniversary of a worldwide famouswatch company, Seiko. It shows the evolution of time-keeping instruments,
Japanese traditional clocks and the history of Seiko and its products.
3-9-7 Higashimukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区東向島 3-9-7）
TEL:03-3610-6248
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
An advanced reservation is required for entry.

■Edo-Tokyo Museum（江戸東京博物館）
A museum which shows the history and culture of Edo-Tokyo. The permanent
exhibition, showcasing original objects and replicas, offers a journey through the
400-year history of Edo-Tokyo since the first shogun of Tokugawa came to Edo.
1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku（墨田区横網 1-4-1）
TEL: 03-3626-9974
Opening Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.
trees and the ocean will make you feel as if you were Hokusai!

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

54■The Japanese Sword Museum（刀剣博物館）
A new museum of Japanese swords in Yasuda Park. The museum has a wide
collection of authentic decorative swords, which are regarded as examples of refined
craftsmanship.
1-12-9 Yokoami, Sumida-ku（墨田区横網 1-12-9）
TEL: 03-6284-1000
Opening Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.

55

TOKYO・NAGANOWHAT TO DO■Ryogoku Kokugikan (Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Arena)（両国国技館）
Watching sumo wrestling is an experience unique to Japan. Sumo tournaments areheld in Ryogoku Kokugikan for two weeks in January, May and September.
1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku（墨田区横網 1-3-28）
TEL: 03-3623-5111

RESTAURANTS■Momonjii-ya, Sukiyaki Restaurant of Mountain Whale Meat（ももんじや）
A restaurant established in 1718 that specializes in sukiyaki made from wild boar
meat. This restaurant is the only one to remain open since the Edo Period wheneating meat was prohibited. At that time, the meat of wild boar was referred to as“mountain whale.”
1-10-2 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku（墨田区両国 1-10-2）
TEL: 03-3631-5596
Opening Hours: (Lunch) 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (only from Tuesday to Saturday)(Dinner) 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.

■Kataoka Byobuten(Kataoka Folding Screens)（片岡屏風店）
The only shop in Tokyo to specialize in folding screens. The shop also offers aworkshop in making folding screens (Reservation required.)
1-31-6 Mukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区向島 1-31-6）
TEL: 03-3622-4470
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Atelier Sogeikan（アトリエ創藝館）

Sumida Edo-Kiriko Kan(The House of Edo-Kiriko)（すみだ江戸切子館）■Tsukada Kobo(Atelier Tsukada)（塚田工房）
A traditional doll-maker that offers a workshop in making a small ball or a small
owl with the kimekomi technique (Reservation required). Also, you can see theprocess of how Japanese dolls are made.
2-11-7 Mukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区向島 2-11-7）
TEL: 03-3622-4579
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

■Kappo Yoshiba（割烹吉葉）
A restaurant specializing in chanko (dishes for sumo wreslers). As the building used
to be used as a sumo stable, there is a sumo ring inside the restaurant.
2-14-5 Yokoami, Sumida-ku（墨田区横網 2-14-5）
TEL: 03-3623-4480
Opening Hours: (Lunch) 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. (Dinner) 5:00 p.m. to 10:00
p.m.

■Atelier Sogeikan（アトリエ創藝館）
An atelier of a professional calligrapher who specializes in Edo-style. The masterwill give you a very interesting and unique explanation of the styles of Edo
calligraphy and teach you how to write your name in kanji. A workshop in writing
kanji on a lantern or a fan is also available.
3-8-2 Yokokawa, Sumida-ku（墨田区横川 3-8-2）
TEL: 03-3622-2381
Opening hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

■Kadoya（かど家）A restaurant specializing in sukiyaki made from shamo chicken (gamefowl) which
has more than 150 years of history. The base of the sukiyaki served here is not soy
sauce but miso paste (Reservation required).
1-6-13 Midori, Sumida-ku（墨田区緑 1-6-13）
TEL: 03-3631-5007
Opening Hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

■Sumida Edo-Kiriko Kan(The House of Edo-Kiriko)（すみだ江戸切子館）
You will find various kinds of beautiful edo-kiriko products at this store, andsee first hand the various pattern-making styles of the tradition, as well as the
production process and the materials and tools used. Moreover, you can see
craftsmen at work. Workshops in creating your original kiriko work are alsoavailable with an advance reservation.
2-10-9, Taihei, Sumida-ku（墨田区太平 2-10-9）
TEL: 03-3623-4148
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

56

There are various restaurants that are easily found throughout the area. Especially,
there are restaurant areas in Tokyo Skytree and in Edo Noren (which is locatedin the building that surrounds Ryogoku station). In this section, we will note
restaurants of interest.

■Sakura Chaya（料亭櫻茶ヤ）
A high-class Japanese restaurant in a classic and elegant building. Here you can call
Geisha, or more accurately Geigi, to serve you or perform (Reservation required.)
5-24-10 Mukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区向島 5-24-10）
TEL: 03-3622-2800■Kiyoshi（料亭きよし）
A Kaiseki-style classic Japanese restaurant where you can call Geigi. The restaurantis friendly and more relaxing than a typical ryoutei-style restaurant.
5-35-3 Mukojima, Sumida-ku（墨田区向島 5-35-3）
TEL: 03-3622-0224
Opening Hours: 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

57

TOKYO・NAGANOThe Obuse Town
in Nagano Prefwcture— Nagano in your pockets

One-Day Trip
To Obuse by Hokuriku Shinkansen
INVITATION to OBUSE
A small town in Nagano Prefecture (less than 20 km2) known for its
chestnuts, flowers and its affiliation with the artist Hokusai. The area is easy
to explore by foot or bike. The town center has been remodeled both for
citizens and visitors, with many attractions such as sweet shops and cafés
specializing in local chestnuts, and a program that allows you to visit private
gardens.

（小布施の町並み）

Highstreet of Obuse

TIME SCHEDULE

TIME

07:20

SCHEDULE

TRANSPORTATIONTokyo Station(arrives at Nagano Hokuriku Shinkansen Kagayaki
Station at 8:43)
No.503 bound for Kanazawa

09:04 Nagano Station

Nagano Dentetsu Line Express
bound for Yudanaka

09:30 Obuse Station

Walk (10min.) or Bicycle

09:40 Hokusai-kan (Hokusai Museum)

Walk (1min.)

11:00 Takai Kozan MemorialWalk

12:00 Lunch
13:00 Town Strolling in Town Center

Walk (20min.) or Bicycle

14:00 Floral Garden

Walk (10min.) or Bicycle

15:00 Joko-ji

Walk (15min.) or Bicycle

16:00 Gansho-in

Walk (20min.) or Bicycle

17:30 Dinner in Town Center

Walk (10min.) or Bicycle

Obuse Station(arrives at Nagano Nagano Dentetsu Line Express
19:10
Station at 19:38)
bound for Nagano
19:53 Nagano Station
Chestnut grove（栗畑）

Masuichi Ichimura Shuzo, sake brewer

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries（桝一市村酒造場）

58

21:20 Tokyo Station

59

TOKYO・NAGANO

Hokuriku Shinkansen Kagayaki
No.532 bound for Tokyo

TIME TABLES• Weekday Timetable of Hokuriku Shinkansen (as of March, 2018)

WHAT TO DO

From Tokyo (Departure Time, Arrival Time at Nagano, Type of Train)
7:20, 8:43, Kagayaki No.503
8:12, 9:39, Kagayaki No.521
8:36, 9:59, Kagayaki No.505
9:04, 10:28, Kagayaki No.523(Note: Beside Kagayaki, Hakutaka and Asama trains go to Nagano. Kagayaki is thequickest train as there are fewer stops.)• Weekday Timetable of Hokuriku Shinkansen (as of March, 2018)
From Nagano (Departure Time, Arrival Time at Tokyo, Type of Train)
19:01, 20:23, Kagayaki No.514
19:53, 21:20, Kagayaki No.532
20:24, 21:56, Kagayaki No.516
22:06, 23:32, Kagayaki No.518

Takai Kozan Kinen Kan(Takai Kozan
Memorial)（高井鴻山記念館）• Weekday Timetable of Nagano Dentetsu Line (as of March, 2018)
From Nagano (Departure Time, Arrival Time at Obuse, Type of Train)
9:04, 9:30, Express
9:10, 9:43, Normal
9:41, 10:13, Normal
10:06, 10:39, Normal
10:32, 10:54, Express
10:45, 11:18, Normal
11:34, 12:09, Normal

Hokusai-kan(Hokusai Museum)（北斎館）• Weekday Timetable of Nagano Dentetsu Line (as of March, 2018)■Hokusai-kan(Hokusai Museum)（北斎館）
The first museum to specialize in Hokusaiʼs artworks, established in 1976. The
collection of hand-drawn works and ceiling paintings for festival floats, as well as
the collection of woodblock prints are magnificent.
485 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町大字小布施 485）
TEL: 026-247-5206
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
in July and August, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on New Years Day)
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.
■Gansho-in(Gansho-in Temple)（岩松院）
An old temple established around 550 years ago. Its ceiling picture named A
Phoenix Staring in Eight Directions is one of the last works by Hokusai and wascompleted over one year.
615 Karita, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町雁田 615）
TEL: 026-247-5504
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 16:30
p.m. in November, 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from December through March)
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.
■Joko-ji(Joko Temple)（浄光寺）
A historic temple established in 1408 dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha
of healing and medicine. It is affectionately referred to as “Yakushi-san, the godof good matchmaking” by the locals. Surprisingly there is a Slackline Park on thepremises.
676 Karita, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町雁田 676）
TEL: 026-247-3924

From Obuse (Departure Time, Arrival Time at Nagano, Type of Train)
19:10, 19:38, Express
19:19, 19:52, Normal
19:36, 20:12, Normal
20:02, 20:35, Normal
20:43, 21:16, Normal
21:02, 21:30, Express

Gansho-in(Gansho-in Temple)（岩松院）

The Alternative Way to Travel around Obuse by FootA convenient round-trip Trip Bus that stops at important tourist attractions andvisitor sites. It departs once an hour from Obuse Sogo Koen (a park) and stops at:
Obuse Station; Hokusai-kan (a museum); Obuse Museum; Municipal Car Park;
Obuse Hot Springs; Floral Garden; Joko-ji and; Gansho-in. The bus will loop back andstop at these same stops once more while returning to Obuse Sogo Koen. A ticket costs
only 300yen and is valid for a whole day. The bus operates from the mid April throughNovember, and only operates on weekends during June, July and the beginning of
September.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries■Takai Kozan Kinen Kan(Takai Kozan Memorial)（高井鴻山記念館）
A museum memorializing Kozan Takai that was created by remodeling his oldhouse. Kozan Takai invited Hokusai and supported him financially. He was bornin a wealthy family and was a painter, calligrapher, poet and a political theorist,
studying in Kyoto and Edo.
805-1, Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（小布施町大字小布施 805-1）
TEL: 026-247-4049
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
in July and August, 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on New Years Day)

60

61

■Floral Garden Obuse（フローラルガーデンおぶせ）
A botanical garden with a flower and souvenir shop. There is also a Western stylerestaurant on the premises.
506-1 Nakamatsu, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町中松 506-1）
TEL: 026-247-5487
Opening Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Entry is allowed up until thirty minutes before the museum closes.

TOKYO・NAGANORESTAURANTS

Suzuhana（鈴花）■Sakurai Kanseido Senseki-tei（桜井甘精堂 泉石亭庭園）
A restaurant of local cuisine. Chestnut dishes such as steamed sticky rice withchestnuts called kuri-okowa and chestnut desserts such as kuri-zenzai (hot andsweet soup made from mashed chestnuts with a piece of rice cake) are especially
recommended.
779 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施 779）
TEL: 026-247-5166
Opening Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
■Suzuhana（鈴花）
A luxurious and elegant Japanese restaurant that serves Kaiseki-style traditionalcourses. Their Japanese-style Shinshu Beef dishes are also worth trying. Privaterooms are available.
102-1 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施 102-1）
TEL: 026-247-6487
Opening Hours: (Lunch) 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (Dinner) 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

CAFÉ

Entotsu Caf.（えんとつカフェ）■BUD（ジャズ喫茶バド）
A Jazz music café in a refurbished 200-year-old miso warehouse, managed by a miso
maker. Sit and experience Jazz of 1950ʼs and 1960ʼs played from records and an oldvalve amplifier! Live Jazz concerts are also occasionally held.
735 Obuse Ise-cho, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施伊勢町 735）
TEL: 026-251-4033■Entotsu Café（えんとつカフェ）
A café managed by a chestnuts sweet shop, Obusedo. Their specialty is Mont Blanc
chestnut cream cakes.
808 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施 808）
TEL: 026-247-7777■Hanaya（花屋）A restaurant and café on the premises in the Floral Garden that serves Western(French and Italian) cuisine and desserts made from locally harvested vegetables
and fruit.
506-1 Nakamatsu, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町中松 506-1）
TEL: 026-247-1187
Opening Hours: (Lunch) 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. (Café) 11:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
(Dinner) 6:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. (reservation required for dinner)■Kurabu（蔵部）A restaurant with a very fancy name: its pronunciation is similar to “club” but thename written in kanji literally means “a part of the brewery”. This renovated oldstyle cellar of Masuichi Ichimura Sake Brewery offers local food cooked with local
ingredients and also its own sake.
807 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施 807）
TEL: 026-247-5300
Opening Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

■Patisserie Rond to（パティスリーロント）
A French style pastry and cake shop that offers dining inside and on its terrace, andalso offers takeaway. The chef, is one of the top patissiers in Japan.
534 Nakamachi, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町中町 534）
TEL: 026-247-2057
Opening Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

■Gelato Shop Marrone（ジェラートショップマローネ）
An ice cream shop managed by a chestnuts sweet shop, Chikufudo. It serves various
flavors of gelato, as well as specialty ice-cream made from processed chestnuts.
973 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町小布施 973）
TEL: 026-214-3287
Opening Hours: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (Seasonal variation: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00
p.m. from November through March)

ACCOMODATION■Masuichi Kyakuden（桝一客殿）
A luxurious hotel managed by a historical sake brewery, Masuichi Ichimura Sake
Brewery. The outer side is traditional earthen storehouse and the interior isdecorated in a Western style with a modern Japanese atmosphere. The president
is a descendant of Takai Kozan (who hosted Katsushika Hokusai in the mid-19th
century) and established the hotel to accommodate town visitors as if they were his
own house guests.
815 Obuse, Obuse-machi, Kamitakai-gun（上高井郡小布施町大字小布施 815）
TEL: 026-247-1111

Masuichi Kyakuden（桝一客殿）

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

62

63

TOKYO・NAGANOACKNOWLEDGEMENTS“TOKYO, NAGANO”
This project is supported by the Kanto Bureau of Economy, Trade and Industry.

日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト〜東京都墨田区・長野県小布施町〜※本プロジェクトは、経済産業省関東経済産業局が実施する「平成 29 年度地域とホテルコンシェルジュが連携した、新たなインバウンド富裕層獲得のための支援事業」と連携して、グランド ハイアット 東京 コ
ンシェルジュ 阿部佳氏のアドバイスを得て実施しています。

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries
The Sumida City in Tokyo Metropolitan and The Obuse Town in Nagano Prefecture
主催／経済産業省関東経済産業局
協力／レ・クレドール ジャパン

Contents & WEB
全体監修／阿部 佳（グランド ハイアット 東京 コンシェルジュ、
明海大学ホスピタリティ・ツーリズム学部教授）
制作協力／株式会社料理通信社
文章／西園寺 怜（Team Mercurius）
写真／ Hide Urabe

Book
編集／堀江由利子
アートディレクション・デザイン／ ampersands
校正・校閲（日本語）／有限会社 西進社
校正・校閲（英語）／ Megan Catherine Rose (Team Mercurius Australia)、KN インターナショナル
印刷・製本／株式会社サンワ

Project Sponsor/Kanto Bureau of Economy, Trade and Industry
Cooperation/Les Clefs d Or Japan
Contents & WEB
Supervision/Kay Abe, Concierge (Grand Hyatt Tokyo),
Professor (Meikai University)
Production Cooperation/Ryori Tsushinsha Co., Ltd.
Writer/Rei Saionji, Team Mercurius
Photographer/Hide Urabe
Book
Editor/Yuriko Horie
Art Director/ampersands
Proof Revisions (Japanese)/Saishinsha, Ltd.
Proof Revisions (English)/ Megan Catherine Rose (Team Mercurius Australia)、KN International
Printing/Sanwa Co.,Ltd.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries