Bulletin 4001-NH3

Chemical Injection Technologies
Installation/Service Bulletin
SUPERIOR Gas Ammoniator
Guide to Installation, Troubleshooting and Maintenance
IMPORTANT!! READ THESE PRECAUTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING!!!
They are very important for your personal safety, and for proper ammoniator operation.
1.

Read these precautions and all related instructions thoroughly and follow them carefully. If you do not understand anyof the information, call your local SUPERIOR supplier or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. Do not attempt to installor operate any gas ammoniator equipment unless you are properly trained.
2. Read the "CYLINDER CHANGING PROCEDURE" card supplied with your unit, and be certain you fully understand theinformation presented on the card. If you do not have the card, contact your local SUPERIOR supplier or Chemical
Injection Technologies, Inc. and we will supply one.
3. Make certain all required safety equipment is in place and operational.
4. When performing any maintenance or changing cylinders, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. strongly recommends
that a gas mask (a pressure-demand type air pack is strongly recommended) should be available in the immediate areaof the ammonia equipment and all operating personnel should be properly trained in its use.
5. Ammonia gas or the fumes from Ammonia solutions can be lethal in large enough doses. Therefore, you should always
have a co-worker observe from a safe location when you are working on any type of ammonia equipment.
6. Avoid breathing the gas or fumes of Ammonia solutions and avoid contact with your skin. Work only in a well-ventilatedarea.
7. Before working on the ammonia system, make certain that the cylinder valve is shut off. If it seems to be shut off already,open it one quarter turn and immediately close it to make certain that the valve is not frozen in the open position. If thevalve stem does not turn easily, you may use the heel of your hand to tap the cylinder wrench. Never use a hammer orother tool to force the valve stem. If you cannot turn the cylinder valve in either direction, always assume it is open. BE
POSITIVE THIS VALVE IS CLOSED BEFORE LOOSENING THE AMMONIATOR MOUNTING YOKE OR VALVE CAP. If
you are not sure, call your ammonia supplier.
8. Do not use wrenches larger than the standard cylinder wrench and do not hit the wrench with a heavy object to open or
close the valve.
9. Do not re-use lead gaskets. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Do not re-use a lead gasket because used gaskets will notproperly seal the ammoniator/cylinder connection and will cause leaks.
10. Use only lead gaskets. Other types may contract with temperature variations resulting in the escape of gas.
11. Check for ammonia gas leaks every time the ammoniator is connected or remounted onto the cylinder.
12. Open the cylinder valve ¼ to ½ turn only, and leave the wrench on the cylinder valve when it is open.
13. The rate valve is not a shut-off valve. To shut-off ammonia, use the ammonia cylinder valve.
14. Always use safety chains or clamps to secure the ammonia cylinders so they may not be accidentally tipped over.
Protective hoods and valve caps must be in place whenever cylinders are not in use.

Pub. No. 1197-1

Copyright © 1997, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc

Printed in U.S.A.

Contents
1.0 INSTALLATION

4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
4.1 Ammonia Leak
4.2 Loss of Ammonia Feed
4.3 Sticky Ball in Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel
4.4 Water in Ammoniator - "Flooding"
4.5 Vacuum Leaks
4.6 Failure to Repeat Set Feed Rate
4.7 Icing of Metering Tube - Liquid Ammonia

1.1 Handling of Ammonia Cylinders
1.2 Mounting Vacuum Regulator
1.3 Installation of Remote Meter Panel
1.4 Installation of Ejector
1.5 Piping of Ejector
1.6 Connecting Vacuum Regulator to Remote Meter andto Vent.
1.7 Automatic Switchover systems
1.8 Multiple Feed Point Systems
1.9 Additional Installation Suggestions

5.0 SERVICE / DISASSEMBLY
5.1 Ejector Check Valve - Cleaning
5.2 Ejector Check Valve - Replacement
5.3 Cleaning / Inspection of Ejector Nozzle
5.4 Cleaning Ammonia Rate Adjustment Valve andMetering Tube
5.5 Cleaning Inlet Safety Shut Off Valve and Seat
5.6 Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body

2.0 START-UP
2.1 Check Ejector
2.2 Check Ammoniator
3.0 SHUT DOWN

1.2.6 Place 1/16" thick lead gasket over the ammonia inlet ofthe vacuum regulator. Never use other types of gaskets
or gasket materials. Never re-use the lead gasket.
Replace the lead gasket each time the ammonia
cylinder is changed.

1.0 INSTALLATION(See Drawing No. 1)
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions"
1.1 Handling of Ammonia Cylinders

1.2.7 Mount vacuum regulator on cylinder valve by placing
the yoke over the valve, engage the vacuum regulator
inlet properly with the valve outlet, and tighten the yokescrew, compressing the lead gasket. Excessive
tightening will squeeze the lead gasket out of the joint
and should be avoided. Do not open the ammonia
cylinder valve until all components are installed. See
section 2.0 "Start-Up".

Ammonia gas is potentially dangerous. The following rules
must always be adhered to:
1.1.1 Never move a cylinder unless the valve protection cap
is screwed on tightly.
1.1.2 Locate the cylinders where they will not be bumped ordamaged.

1.3 Installation of Remote Meter Module

1.1.3 A safety chain should be placed around the cylinders
and secured to a wall or support.

1.3.1 Install remoter meter panel right side up in a locationthat is convenient for the operator and/or affords
greatest security. Connect vacuum tubing from thevacuum regulator to the remote meter panel and fromthe remote meter panel to the ejector as shown inDrawing No. 1.

1.1.4 When the vacuum regulator is mounted directly on theammonia cylinder valve, the cylinder and ammoniatorneed not be in a heated room. For outdoor installation,
when temperatures exceed 1000 F., the cylinder should
be shaded from direct sunlight.

1.4 Installation of Ejector(See Photo Nos. 1.2, 1.3, 1.4)

1.1.5 Do not open the cylinder valve more than ¼ to ½ turn.

1.4.1 The check valves in the ejector are designed in such amanner that the ejector may be installed in any position.

Note: The term "Ammoniator", as used in this publication, refers to
the Vacuum Regulator, the Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel,and the Ejector Assembly, as a complete system.

1.4.2 The point of injection should be carefully chosen so thatthe water pressure at this point I(back pressure) s as
low as possible. Vacuum is created in the ejector by thenozzle which is actually a precision designed venturi.
Water pressure to the nozzle must be high enough toovercome the back pressure and create a strong jet in
the nozzle.

1.2 Mounting Vacuum Regulator(See Photo No. 1.1)
Follow these steps to mount vacuum regulator on the ammonia
cylinder valve.
1.2.1 Unscrew the valve protection cap from the ammonia
cylinder.

1.4.3 The standard ejector is designed to withstand staticback pressures in excess of 250 psig (17.5 kg/cm2).
However, due to possibilities of water line "torque" inhigh pressure on-off systems, as well as special booster
pump considerations, it is recommended that a factory
representative, or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc.
be consulted regarding installation details in systems
over 100 psig (7 kg/cm2).

1.2.2 Check to make sure the cylinder valve is closed.
Carefully unscrew the cap nut which covers theammonia cylinder valve outlet.
1.2.3 Remove any dirt that may be in the valve outlet or on theoutlet gasket surface.
1.2.4 Remove all shipping tape & inlet protective cap from thevacuum regulator. (DO NOT remove the porous, whitefilter which is inserted in the vacuum regulator inlet).

1.4.4 Generally, the amount of water (GPM) required tooperate the ejector depends upon the ammonia flowrate (lbs./24 hrs. or gr./hr.). The higher the ammonia
flow rate, the greater the water flow needed.

1.2.5 Unscrew the yoke screw until the sliding valve plate canbe pushed all the way back.

2

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

3

recommended very strongly.
1.4.5

Ejector water supply pressure must be greater than thepressure into which solution is ejected. The amount ofpressure differential may vary with the particular application.
Generally, the greater the pressure into which the ammonia
will be injected, the greater the required differential pressure.
However, the minimum pressure differential and water flow foryour installation should be determined prior to installation andstart-up.

1.5.4 Connect hose between the hose adaptor and theejector nozzle. Clamp the hose securely at both ends
with single or double hose clamps.
(Photo No. 1.5).
1.5.5 When rigid piping is used all the way up to the ejector
inlet instead of hose, cut off the hose adaptor "barbs" on
the nozzle where the 1" NPT threads start. Be certain to
install pipe unions to allow maintenance.

1.4.6 Follow these steps for installing close-coupled diffuserand ejector.

1.6 Connecting Vacuum Regulator to Remote Meter and to venta. Unscrew the diffuser from the assembly. DO NOT
install the diffuser when the ejector is assembled ordamage may occur.

1.6.1 Appropriate size plastic tubing is normally used for thevacuum line between the vacuum regulator and remotemeter; the remote meter and ejector; and for the
emergency vent. Use enough length for each line toallow for movement of the vacuum regulator from one
cylinder to another.

b. Put Teflon tape on the 1" pipe threads and screw thediffuser into the pipe. These are high-strength plastic
parts, but like all plastic pipe fittings, care should be
exercised in tightening. Tighten carefully withproperly adjusted wrench. Make sure that the holes
in the spray type diffuser are in the main stream. The
end of an open type diffuser should not allow strong
ammonia solution to come into contact with metal
pipe or fittings, as this will cause serious corrosion.
(Photo No. 1.2).

1.6.2 Remove connector nut from connector and slip onto
tube. Push tube onto connector and tighten connector
nut HAND TIGHT.
1.6.3 Upper connector on ammoniator vacuum regulator is forconnecting the vacuum tubing to the bottom connectorof the remote meter. The upper connector on the
remote meter is for connecting the vacuum tubing to
the ejector. The lower connector on the ammoniatorvacuum regulator is for vent line exhausting to safe
location outside building. An insect screen is provided
for the outside of the vent line, and MUST be installed
to prevent insects from entering the vacuum regulator
and causing service problems.

c. Place a gasket (GK-125) into the recess on each sideof the check valve body. Insert the nozzle throughthe check valve body (Photo No. 1.3). Hold thecheck valve body against the diffuser at ¼ turn
COUNTER CLOCKWISE from its final position (up,down, side- ways).
d. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, by HAND ONLY,
until contact is made against both gaskets. Turn the
check valve body and the nozzle, at the same time,¼ turn clockwise to the final, tight position (PhotoNo. 1.4). Attach water supply hose and tighten
clamps. (Photo No. 1.5).

1.7 Automatic Switchover Systems(See Drawing No. 2.)
Mount vacuum regulators onto separate cylinder valves andinstall ejector as described above in sections 1.2 and 1.4.

1.4.7 Other types of diffuser and ejector installations may bedesired for certain applications:1.7.1 Mount Automatic Switchover Module on wall as near as
possible to the ammonia cylinders.

a. The ejector (nozzle and check valve assembly) may
be located near the vacuum regulator. A wall
mounting bracket can be provided for the assembly,
and the outlet can be supplied with various sizes ofadaptors for solution hose or pipe.

1.7.2 Mount the remote metering tube/rate control panel on
wall, preferably between the automatic switchover
module and the ejector.
1.7.3 Connect vacuum tubing from the "vacuum" outlet ofeach vacuum regulator to the tubing connectors oneach side of the automatic switchover module.

b. If the ejector is to be remotely installed with solution
piping or hose running to the point of application, becertain to cut off the tip of the diffuser before
installing into the pipe or hose. Failure to do this will
result in excessive back- pressure being created in
the diffuser, causing ammonia feed rate to drop off or
stop.

1.7.4 Connect vacuum tubing from the tubing connector on
the top of the switchover module to the tubing
connector at the bottom of the remote meter panel, andconnect tubing from the top connector of the remotemeter panel to the ejector. [Special order "Right/Left"side remote meter panels are available which allow
vacuum connectors to be installed on either side of theremote meter panel. Plugs are inserted in the unused
fitting holes.]c. The entire diffuser-ejector assembly may besubmersed in an open channel or tank.
d. Diffuser tubes with corporation cocks can besupplied for either close coupled or remote ejectors.

1.8 Multiple-Point Feed Systems(See Drawing No. 3)

e. Special diffusers can be supplied for use with PVC
Ball valves.

Mount vacuum regulator onto cylinder as described in section
1.2. Mount each individual ejector as described in section 1.4.
Connect vacuum tubing from vacuum regulator to remotemeter panels, using tubing connector "Tee's", and fromindividual meter panels to respective ejectors as shown inDrawing. No. 3.
NOTE: Each ejector must be installed as if it were acompletely separate ammonia system, with the proper waterflow and differential pressure.

1.5 Piping of Ejector
1.5.1 For most installations, the ejector water supply line
should be brought to within 3-5 feet of the nozzle withrigid copper or iron pipe, or schedule 80 PVC pipe.
1.5.2 A shut-off valve followed by a Y-type strainer and theejector is desirable as a service tool, and is highly
recommended.
1.5.3 A pressure gauge installed between the Y-type strainer
and the ejector is desirable as a service tool, and is5

1.9 Additional Installation Suggestions
1.9.1

1.9.2

2.2.5 Re-connect plastic vacuum tube. Open ammonia
cylinder valve 1/4 turn and close immediately.

Many operators find it convenient to install a "hook" on
the wall behind the ammonia cylinder, slightly above thevacuum regulator. When changing cylinders, thevacuum regulator can easily be hung on this "hook"while moving new cylinders into place.

2.2.6 Check forleaks.
2.2.7 Open ammonia cylinder valve 1/4 turn, leave open, andrecheck for ammonia leaks.

A beam-type scale should be used to weigh ammonia
cylinders while in use to determine the amount ofammonia remaining.

2.2.8 Turn on water supply valve to ejector and adjust rate
valve to desired ammonia flow rate. Flow rate in lbs./24
hrs., or gr./hr. is read on the meter scale at the center ofthe ball for all flow rates except 200 to 500 PPD which
are read at the top of the ball. Don't forget to reset the"Loss of Ammonia" indicator.

2.0 START-UP

NOTE: NEVER use the rate valve to shut off the ammonia
supply. This valve is for adjusting flow rate while thesystem is in operation. To shut off ammonia flowclose the cylinder valve.

2.1 Check Ejector
2.1.1 The ejector, with its water supply and solution lines,
must be properly installed and operating before
checking the ammoniator: IMPORTANT: do not connect
ejector to the ammonia vacuum tubing before applying
water pressure to the ejector assembly. Dirt or debris
can become lodged in the check valve during
installation. Cycle the ejector on and off several times toinsure tight closing. Failure to follow this procedure cancause water to enter the ammoniator, requiring
disassembly.

3.0 SHUT-DOWN
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions".

2.1.2 Unless the ejector is creating a vacuum, the ammoniator
will not work. Follow these steps:
a. Make sure the plastic vacuum tube is disconnectedfrom the ejector.
b. With the booster pump running, or pressurized watersupply connected, open the ejector water supply
valve. The ejector should be in operation andcreating a vacuum.
c. Put your finger on the vacuum connector opening ofejector and feel the vacuum. This is a strong vacuum
and there should be no doubt that a vacuum exists.
If there is no vacuum, refer to Section 1.4 and be
certain the supply pressure is sufficient and that thenozzle or piping is not plugged. Correct thecondition and obtain proper vacuum before
proceeding.
d. Be sure that no water is coming out of the vacuum
tube fitting when the ejector is shut off. If water isobserved leaking past the check valve, see Service
Section 5.1 and correct before proceeding.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube to check ammoniator.
Leave the ejector running.
2.2 Check Ammoniator(Have strong household ammonia and a piece of cloth
available to check for ammonia leaks. Avoid breathing thefumes).
2.2.1 With the ejector operating, and the ammonia cylinder
still closed, the ball in the metering tube will remain at
the bottom. If the ball does not remain at the bottom, or
bounces up and down, there is either a leak at the leadgasket where the vacuum regulator connects on thecylinder or a loose connection in the system. Check andcorrect.
2.2.2 The supply indicator on the face of the vacuum
regulator will be visible as RED. Double check byattempting to RESET the indicator. It should NOT beable to be reset.
2.2.3 Close the ejector water supply valve or turn off thebooster pump to stop operation of the ejector.
2.2.4 Disconnect the plastic vacuum tube at the vacuum
regulator and pull off the tube to allow air to entersystem.
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions".

6

3.1

Shut off water supply valve and/or booster pump.

3.2

Shut off the ammonia cylinder valve - not the rate valve.

3.3

When changing cylinders, follow the procedure on thecylinder changing chart supplied with your SUPERIOR
Gas Ammoniator. Make certain that the cylinder valve
is closed before removing the vacuum regulator.

4.1.4 Vacuum Regulator inlet capsule seat (adaptor face seal
O-ring OR-103)

Care and Maintenance of Your Superior
Gas Ammoniator.

Ammonia leaking out between the back body and theyoke assembly, or from the space between the front andback bodies usually indicates a leak at the o'ring seal
between the inlet valve capsule and the inlet adaptor.
The usual causes are listed below.
See section 5.5 under "Service".

GENERAL
This section covers all phases of service on SUPERIOR Direct Cylinder
Mounted Gas Ammoniators. Normally it is not necessary to completely
disassemble the ammoniator unless the unit is to be cleaned throughout,or the unit has been severely flooded. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE
UNIT MERELY FOR THE SAKE OF DISASSEMBLY. All units have beenfactory tested and are in perfect condition when they are shipped.

a. Improper tightening of the inlet valve capsule after
disassembly.
b. Dirt or impurities on the o'ring or sealing surfaces.

This text describes some of the things that can cause a ammoniator tostop working. Read it carefully and find out what the problem is before
corrective measures are taken.

c. Failure to re-install thedisassembly.

4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING

OR-103 o'ring after

d. Damaged or worn OR-103 o'ring.

SUPERIOR Gas Ammoniators will require minimum service if
operated with reasonable care. Problems which could arise arelisted below.

4.2 Loss of Ammonia Feed
(There are four possible reasons for loss of ammonia feed.)
4.2.1 No vacuum.

4.1 Ammonia Leak

This can readily be checked by removing the ammonia
gas line at the ejector-diffuser and holding your thumbover the fitting. Suitable vacuum will exert a strong pull.
If there is no vacuum, the ejector nozzle may beplugged. Refer to section 5.3 under "Service" (Cleaning
the Ejector nozzle).

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read the "Precautions".
There are four possible points of ammonia pressure
leaks. These are not unusual, but if a ammonia leak isdetected it should be immediately located and stopped.
Even small leaks can create a safety hazard and cause
serious corrosion to equipment in the area. Ammonia
should be used to detect leaks (as described in 2.2.6
under START-UP).

4.2.2 Insufficient water pressure to operate ejector-diffuser.
This can be readily checked in the same manner as
above by holding the thumb over the ejector vacuum
fitting.

4.1.1 Ammonia cylinder valve packing.
The ammonia cylinder valve is a high quality valve
designed specifically for ammonia service. Ammonia
suppliers should service this valve at each filling andleakage at this point is unusual. Should a leak develop,
tighten the cylinder valve packing nut without exerting
excessive force. If this does not eliminate the leak,close the valve and call the ammonia supplier.

4.2.3 No ammonia supply.
This should be obvious.
When the ammonia cylinder becomes empty, themetering ball will not indicate ammonia feed and the
supply indicator on the vacuum regulator will show RED.
4.2.4 Plugged vacuum regulator inlet filter.

4.1.2 The lead gasket seal between the vacuum regulator andthe ammonia cylinder valve.

Dirt from the cylinder may completely plug the highefficiency, porous filter, The filter may be removed forinspection and cleaning. See section 5.5.10 under"Service".

A leak at this point is caused by:•Reusing a lead gasket•Dirt on the gasket surfaces•Under or over tightened connection•Installation without a gasket•Using a "fiber" type gasket (only lead gaskets should
be used).

4.2.4 Broken or leaking vacuum line(s).
4.3 Sticky Ball in Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel
4.3.1 Deposits

Use a new lead gasket. Make certain the gasket andgasket surfaces are clean and smooth. Tighten clamp,
but not excessively. (Photo No. 4.1)

a. Ammonia gas may contain traces of organic
compounds. These compounds can cause deposits
on the ball or the glass tube. The deposit is often
sticky, causing the ball to adhere to the surface ofthe glass. This can cause erratic operation. When
this occurs it is necessary to clean the meter tube
assembly. The cleaning procedure is outlined in
section 5.4 under "Service" (Cleaning Ammonia
Meter).

4.1.3 Ammoniator shut-off valve - "Venting"Ammonia leaking out of the vent is an indication of aleak at the safety shut-off valve. The usual cause is dirton the valve seat. Test to make certain the problem is aleak at this point.

b. Excessive amounts of lubricants applied to o'rings
during service re-assembly can cause deposits toform on the metering tube ball and tube walls.

a. Shut off water supply to ejector-diffuser.
b. Submerge the end of the vent tubing in a glass ofwater. Continuous bubbling is an indication of aammonia leak.

c. The frequency of cleaning depends on a number offactors, Small ammoniators (below 10 PPD or 200
gr./hr.) will require cleaning more often than higher
capacity units. The quality of the ammonia and theoperating temperature of the installation affect thefrequency of cleaning. Our experience indicates thata 10 PPD unit may have to be cleaned as often as
every 4 or 5 months or may not require cleaning forseveral years.

c. Before removing the unit from the cylinder, close thecylinder valve, turn on the water supply, and allow
the ammoniator to operate until the metering ball
drops to the bottom.
d. Refer to section 5.5 under "Service" (cleaning safety
shut-off Valve and Seat).

7

d. When the ball drops to zero, shut off the ejector
supply water. Note that the ammonia supply
indicator can not be reset to GREEN. With aperfectly tight system this condition will remain.
Usually a 5 or 10 minute check is all that is required.
If a leak exists in the system, the diaphragm
assembly will move allowing the ammonia supply
indicator to be reset. If you are unsure about theposition of the indicator, remove the "vent" tubingfrom the lower vacuum tube connector. Using some"soapy" water (water and dishwashing detergent arebest) place a soap "bubble" over the connector hole.
If the bubble gets larger it indicates that a vacuum
leak exists.

4.3.2 Moisture in the systema. In the normal course of operation, moisture
should not be present. However, it is possible inchanging cylinders that very moist air could be
drawn into the inlet. This can cause the metering
tube ball to become "sticky" particularly on thebottom c to ¼ of the tube.
b. If the ammoniator has been previously "flooded" (seesection 4.4) it is possible that all moisture has notbeen removed from the gas passageways in thevacuum regulator and/or remote meter/rate valve.
c. A severe vacuum leak can allow moist air to enter
the system. (see section 4.5).

4.5.3 The most common cause of vacuum leaks is improper
assembly of units that have been taken apart forservicing.

4.4 Water in Ammoniator - "Flooding"

4.5.4 The most common points of leakage are listed asfollows:

4.4.1 During ammoniator operation, vacuum draws ammonia
gas through the system and water cannot enter theammoniator. When the system is shut down, water
under pressure is prevented from backing up into theammoniator by means of a back flow check valve. Any
water observed in the ammoniator indicates a failure of
the back flow check valve to seal properly. If the leak issevere or the check valve is damaged, water may beobserved coming out of the "vent" tubing:a. Ammonia metering tube gaskets
If the ammonia meter is not installed straight or therate valve seat (RV-130) is not tightened properly aleak could develop.
NOTE: Excessive tightening can also cause a leak. Metering
tube gaskets can be re-used. However, except for "Lip"type gaskets, they should be turned over to re-use.

a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the waterin the main, so there is no pressure in the ejector
piping.

b. Rate valve o'rings
b. Remove the vacuum tube from the ejector and follow
instructions for "Cleaning Ejector Check Valve",
Section 5.1 and for "Replacing Ejector Check Valve",
Section 5.2, if damage is observed.

Rate valve o'rings (OR-102) may become worn.
Fouling of the surfaces might cause abrasion of theo'ring surface.
c. Sealing surface at main diaphragmc. Close the ammonia cylinder valve and remove thevacuum regulator from the cylinder. Remove themetering tube from the remote meter module andfollow instructions in Section 5.4 "Cleaning Rate
Adjustment Valve and Metering Tube".

An imperfection or speck of dirt on this surface
during reassembly may cause a vacuum leak, but
SUPERIOR's use of a compression sealing o'ring(OR-108) makes this unlikely.

d. Follow instructions for "Disassembly of Vacuum
Regulator Body" in Section 5.6 and be certain allmoisture is removed before reassembling. Also, becertain no moisture remains in the vacuum tubing
between the vacuum regulator and remote meter
panel.

d. Vacuum tubing and connectors
Check vacuum tubing for cracks, particularly undertubing connector nuts. Check vacuum tubing
connectors.
e. Other possible points of leakage which are not as
common:e. Follow "Start-Up" procedure in Section 2.
4.5 Vacuum Leaks(1) O'ring at inlet capsule (OR-106)(2) Vent seal on diaphragm (OR-110)

4.5.1 For best operation all parts of the ammoniator systemshould be air-tight, since vacuum leaks will permit air toenter the system. All units are vacuum tested at thefactory prior to shipment, therefore, a vacuum leak on a
new unit is unlikely. Furthermore, it is very unusual forleaks to develop during operation unless the unit has
been disassembled.

4.6 Failure to Repeat Set Feed Rate

4.5.2 A simple test determines whether or not a ammoniatorsystem is free of vacuum leaks. Proceed as follows:

4.6.1 On start-up (where the ammoniator is actuatedautomatically with water flow) a ammoniator with a dirty
meter or rate adjustment valve may not repeat.
This is particularly true of low capacity units below
10 PPD ammonia feed rate. Correction of this situation
can be accomplished by:a. Operate the ammoniator normally at any arbitrary
ammonia setting.

a. Cleaning the rate adjustment valve as outlined in
Section 5.4.

b. Shut off the ammonia cylinder valve. (It is assumed
that the cylinder valve will shut off tightly. A defective
valve will give erroneous results).

b. Cleaning the ammonia meter as outlined in Section
5.4. The frequency of cleaning depends on thequality of ammonia.
4.6.2 Failure to repeat may also occur if the ammoniator has
been flooded and moisture remains in the metering andrate adjustment areas.

c. The ball in the ammonia meter should drop to zero.
(For very low capacity units this may take as long as
5 minutes). If the ball does not drop to the bottom
this indicates a vacuum air leak at some point in thesystem, usually between the ammonia inlet and themetering tube.

8

4.1

5.1

5.2

5.3

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7
9

5.8

5.9

5.10

5.11

5.12

5.13

5.14

5.15

5.16

5.17

10

4.7 Icing of Metering Tube - Liquid Ammonia
4.7.1 If ice is observed forming on the remote meter tube it isa definite indication that liquid ammonia has entered theammoniator from the cylinder. While this is extremely
rare, our experience has shown that ammonia suppliers
have been known to overfill ammonia cylinders (rarely)
causing liquid to enter the ammoniator. Also, if thecylinder should be tipped over while the ammoniator isoperating, liquid may be drawn into the system.
Ton Containers; If the vacuum regulator is mounted
directly onto the gas outlet valve of a ton container(using a ton container adaptor), it is possible that the"dip" tube inside the container has been broken off or ahole has developed, allowing liquid ammonia to be
drawn into the vacuum regulator instead of gas. Also,check to be certain that the heater on the adaptor is
keeping the drip leg warm. It is possible for liquidammonia that is trapped in the inside "dip" tube of thecontainer to be drawn through the adaptor, when a ton
container is first used. Make sure that the regulator isconnected to the TOP valve, and that the two valves arealigned vertically.
Wall Manifolds; Gas vapor can condense and form
droplets of liquid ammonia, particularly when there is asudden temperature drop in the flexible connectors.
Make sure that the "drip Leg" heater is connected andthat the drip leg is warm to the touch. Do not allow
cylinders or ton containers to be in an area where they
can become warmer than the flexible connectors or
manifold piping (example: cylinder placed where
sunlight through a window can shine on it but not on the
manifold piping ).
4.7.2 If the ammoniator has been subjected to liquidammonia, do the following:
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions"a. Shut off the cylinder valve.
b. Leave the ejector running and pulling vacuum on theammoniator for several minutes.
c. Remove the vacuum regulator from the cylinder.
d. Keeping your face away from the regulator, quickly
remove the vacuum tubing from the "vacuum" outlet
on the vacuum regulator, to "break" the vacuum lockin the regulator.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube. Observe that themetering tube ball indicates gas flow (air). The
ammoniator will now draw air into the ammoniator
inlet and through the ammoniator, vaporizing any
remaining liquid. If the metering tube ball drops tothe bottom, it means that the vacuum regulator has"locked up" due to excessive air flow rate. If thishappens close the rate valve, remove the vacuum
tube from the regulator again and quickly reconnect
it. Open the rate valve until air flows at a steady rate.
Allow the ammoniator to draw air for several minutes.
f. Shut off ejector.
g. Either OUTDOORS or in a WELL-VENTILATED
ROOM, follow instructions for "Disassembly of
Vacuum Regulator Body" (Section 5.6). Clean withwood alcohol or Apple Cider vinegar and replace any
parts that show signs of ammonia attack.
h. Reassemble and follow START-UP procedure in
Section 2.

11

5.2 Ejector Check Valve - Replacement

5.0 SERVICE/DISASSEMBLY

5.2.1 HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: After inspecting thecheck valve as described in 5.1 above, if wear ordamage is noted, the check valve (CV-150) should be
replaced.

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read the "Precautions for
Personal and Ammoniator Protection" on Page 1.
Before attempting to disassemble any of the SUPERIOR Gas
Ammoniator components, refer to Section 4.0 TROUBLEHINTS to isolate the cause of the problem. Below are listed thevarious sections under SERVICE.

a. Grasp the outer edges of the check valve (CV-150)
and apply a steady pulling force until the "umbrella"
tip pops free. Be certain it is completely removed.

Section 5.1 Ejector check valve - cleaning.

b. Examine the check valve seat sealing surface fordeposits and clean with wood alcohol or apple cider
vinegar.

Section 5.2 Ejector check valve - replacement.
Section 5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of ejector nozzle.

c. Check the seat sealing surface with a straight-edge
to be certain that it is completely flat. If the center isslightly raised, you will see light under the straightedge or it will "rock" over the center. If the seatsealing surface is not flat, use a very fine sand- paperor emery cloth on a flat surface (plate glass), andgently move the check valve seat in a figure 8 patternonly. Do not rub back and forth or the seat will
become distorted.

Section 5.4 Removing and cleaning ammonia rate adjustment
valve and metering tube.
Section 5.5 Cleaning inlet safety shut-off valve and seat.
Section 5.6 Disassembly of vacuum regulator body.
5.1 Ejector Check Valve - Cleaningd. Coat the tip of new check valve with a very light filmof DC33 silicone grease. Put the tip of the checkvalve in the check valve seat hole and using thehandle of a screwdriver or other rounded object,push against the center of the check valve until thetip snaps into seat. (Photo No. 5.2).

5.1.1 Two check valves are installed in the standard ejector
assembly to prevent water from backing into theammonia gas system when the ejector is shut off. (Note:a special "Low Pressure" ejector is sometimes provided
for installations where ammonia solution is being
applied directly into an open tank - This ejector contains
only the Low Pressure check valve. Follow directions
that apply only to low pressure check valves). The
check valves are designed so that it is extremely
difficult for dirt to get under the valves, but dirt can enterfrom the ammonia side of the valve, or work its way
under the valve from the water supply if large amountsof sand or other impurities are present.

DO NOT TWIST CHECK VALVE OR DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
5.2.2 LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: if water has been
observed coming out of the vacuum tube fitting on the
check valve assembly, it will be necessary todisassemble the check valve housing, and replace thecheck valve seat o'ring, and possibly the check valve
diaphragm if it is damaged.

To remove and clean the valves:a. Hold the check valve seat/outlet body (CV-110) witha wrench or place the wrench lugs in a vise. Usinga 1 inch open-end wrench, place the wrench on the"outside" of the raised wrench lug on top of thecheck valve inlet body (CV-111). This is the side into
which the vacuum fitting is screwed. Turn the inlet
body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.

a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the waterin the main.
b. Remove vacuum tube.
c. Unscrew the check valve assembly counterclockwise from the ejector body (EJ-110). Wrenchlugs are located on the underside of the check valve
assembly if you cannot unscrew it by hand.
HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:b. When disassembling, note the position of thediaphragm and spring. Usually, the spring willremain attached to the diaphragm bolt (CV-103).
(Photo No. 5.3)

a. Carefully lift the edge of the check valve (CV-150)(Photo No. 5.1) and inspect. Clean both the valve
and the seating surfaces with wood alcohol or apple
cider vinegar. Do not use any solvents.

c. Inspect the check valve seat o'ring for dirt ordeposits. The o'ring may be cleaned and re-used,
but it is recommended that the o'ring be replaced
whenever the unit is disassembled. (Photo No. 5.4)

b. When re-installing the check valve assembly, put asmall amount of "Fluorolube" or Dow Corning DC33
silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR-105) and seatgasket (GK-120) for lubrication.

d. Inspect the check valve sealing surface on thediaphragm bolt (CV-103) and clean with wood
alcohol or apple cider vinegar.
e. If the diaphragm (CV-104) has been damaged or has
been severely distorted, it must be replaced. Whenre-assembling the diaphragm assembly, be certainthat no dirt or debris is on the sealing surfaces of thediaphragm, the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) or nut(CV-105). Be careful when tightening the diaphragmbolt and nut to avoid tearing the diaphragm.
(Photo No. 5.5)

c. Screw check valve assembly (clockwise) into ejector
body. USE NO TOOLS, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.
d. Pressurize the ejector and cycle several times before
reconnecting the vacuum tubing to insure that thecheck valve is sealing properly.
LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:
a. The low pressure check valve is housed inside thecheck valve assembly. Any cleaning or service
requires disassembling the entire check valve
assembly. Unless a leak is observed, or you wish to
replace the low pressure check valve seat aspreventive maintenance, it is recommended that you
do not disassemble the unit. If disassembly isrequired, follow instructions under "Replacement",
below, and always replace the low pressure checkvalve seat o'ring (OR-114).

12

c. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, BY HAND ONLY,
until contact is made against both gaskets.

f. Re-assemble by placing the spring and diaphragm
assembly into the recessed hole in the outlet body(CV-110). Make sure that the diaphragm assemblyis centered and carefully place the inlet body(CV-111) over the threads of the outlet body. Hand
tighten until resistance is felt. Using a wrench or vise
to hold the outlet body, and a 1" open-end wrenchon the inlet body (see 5.2.2.a), tighten down the inlet
body until snug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.

d. Turn the ejector body and the nozzle, at the sametime, ¼ turn clockwise to the final tight position. (SeeInstallation Section, Photo No. 1.3).
e. Re-install the ejector supply hose and ammonia
vacuum tubing.

5.2.3 Examine seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat gasket(GK-120)for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

5.3.7 Open all valves and check for proper vacuum.
(See Section 2.1).

5.2.4 When reinstalling the check valve assembly, put a small
amount of DC33 silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR105) and seat gasket (GK-120) for lubrication. It is
recommended that Teflon pipe sealing tape be applied
to the threads of the check valve assembly.

5.4 Cleaning Ammonia Rate Adjustment Valve and Metering
Tube.
5.4.1 Unscrew the rate valve plug assembly (RV-140) from the
top of Remote Meter Assembly, (Photo No. 5.7) and pull
the plug assembly with steady pressure until it "pops"out of the rate valve seat. (Photo No. 5.8).

5.2.5 Screw check valve seat (clockwise) into ejector body.
USE NO TOOLS. HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.

5.4.2 Insert a nail or thin screwdriver through two of the fourholes in the top of the rate valve seat. While holding theammonia flow metering tube with one hand, turn theseat counter-clockwise. The metering tube will loosen
and may be removed, (Photo No. 5.6).

5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of Ejector Nozzle
5.3.1 To remove the ejector nozzle for cleaning, the waterpressure in the main must first be shut off unless theejector was initially installed with a valve on the inlet side
and a ball valve or corporation stop in the outlet so thatisolation of the ejector is possible.

5.4.3 Continue unscrewing the rate valve seat until it is free of
its threads. Grasp the rate valve seat and pull up until it
pops out.

5.3.2 Remove the ejector supply hose and ammonia vacuum
tubing from the ejector assembly.

5.4.4 To clean the rate valve plug (RV-140):
a. Clean the silver tip and shaft using a cloth dipped inlacquer thinner or acetone. CAUTION: Do not use
any lacquer thinner or acetone on o'rings. This cancause the material to soften or become damaged.

5.3.3 Rotate the complete ejector body counterclockwise,
making certain that the solution outlet remains fixed(use wrench if necessary). This loosens the threaded
portion of the nozzle from the solution diffuser andsimplifies removal.

b. Use a mild solvent, such as alcohol to clean o'rings.
Examine the o'rings (OR-102) and make sure they
are free of bruises or scratches. Replace ifnecessary. Use a light film of DC33 silicone greaseon the o'rings and threads.

5.3.4 Unscrew the nozzle (EJ-130). The ejector body, thenozzle and the diffuser (EJ-150) are now separated.
(Photo No. 5.6).
5.3.5 Nozzle plugging can be caused by:

5.4.5 To clean the rate valve seat (RV-130):
a. Piece of foreign material (pipe sealer, stone or dirt
accumulation). This can be readily blown out or
pushed out very carefully, with a wire in the reverse
direction. Do not use sharp tools or alter the size ofthe orifice in any way.

a. Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip) with a small amount ofwood alcohol and clean out the inside of the rate
valve seat.
b. If dirt or deposits have formed in the metering orificeof the rate valve seat, a pipe cleaner dipped inalcohol can be carefully inserted through the orificeand gently moved back and forth. (Photo No. 5.9).

b. Excess plastic pipe solvent used during initialinstallation of inlet piping. If such solvent has
chemically bonded to the nozzle orifice, the nozzle
must be replaced.

c. Clean the metering tube gasket surface with thecotton swab.

c. Build-up of deposit. This could be a chemical buildup of iron, manganese or other material whichusually can be removed by immersing the nozzle inmuriatic acid and rinsing. CAUTION: Read all
warning labels on Muriatic Acid bottle and avoid skincontact. It is recommended that safety goggles orface shield be used when working with any strongacid. Some waters are such that this build-up cancause an ejector to become inoperative every twomonths. If build-up is excessive and requires
constant cleaning, you may consider the possibilityof adding "sequestering" chemicals (such as
hexametaphosphate) into the ejector water supply
line. Consult local regulatory agencies before
adding any chemicals to a potable water system.

d. Inspect and clean the rate valve seat o'rings(OR-103) with alcohol. Replace if damaged or worn.
5.4.6 To clean the metering tube assembly:
a. Use tweezers or needle nosed pliers and pull out thefloat stops on each end of the glass tube. MAKE
SURE THE METERING BALL IS NOT LOST.
b. Clean the inside of the glass tube with a pipe cleaner
using wood alcohol and rinse thoroughly with warm
water. Clean the metering ball float.
c. Dry out the glass meter with an air hose. (NOTE:
Never use compressed air when the metering ballfloat is in the tube). If none is available, a hot waterrinse will dry out by itself in a few minutes.

5.3.6 To re-install the nozzle:
a. Insert the nozzle through the ejector body and fasten
to the solution diffuser outlet (EJ-150) using new
gaskets (GK-125) on each side of ejector body.

d. Re-install ball float and float stops.
5.4.7 Place Teflon pipe tape on threads of the rate valve seat(RV-130)and apply a thin film of DC33 silicone grease to
the o'rings. Snap valve seat in place until the threads
can engage. Turn the rate valve seat clockwise 1-1/2
turns.

b. Hold the ejector body (EJ-110) against the diffuser at¼ turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE from its final
position; up, down, sideways, etc. (see installation
Section, Photo No. 1.3).

13

5.4.85.5.8 Clean the inlet adaptor (YK-150) before proceeding withassembly. A small tube or bottle brush (or cotton swab)
with lacquer thinner or acetone works well here.
Remove and inspect the adapter face seal o'ring (OR103) before applying any cleaning solvent to theadaptor. Replace the o'ring if scratched or damaged.

Replace the ammonia metering tube:a. The metering tube gaskets can usually be re-used. If
damaged, replace them. Place one gasket on thebottom of the rate valve seat and one gasket in therecess of the ammoniator body at the bottom of themetering tube area. (NOTE: some sizes of meteringtubes use larger "Lip" type gaskets on the top thanon the bottom).

5.5.9 The adaptor face seal o'ring (OR-103) and all other parts
may be cleaned with a clean cloth dipped in wood
alcohol.

b. Center the top of the metering tube under the rate
valve seat and center the bottom over the hole in thelower gasket.

5.5.10 The inlet filter disk (YK-165) may be removed forinspection of dirt build-up and for cleaning by pushinga pencil eraser tip through the inlet adaptor (YK-150),(See Photo No. 5.14). Dirt and deposits can usually beremoved by immersing the filter in muriatic acid.
CAUTION: Read all warning labels on muriatic acidcontainer. Use only in a well ventilated area. Avoid skincontact. Do not breath vapors. Safety goggles or faceshield should be worn. Dry filter thoroughly with air hoseor dryer. If local, state, or federal regulations prohibit
storage or use of Muriatic acid at your site, try using
some apple cider vinegar. If this does not get the filter
clean, then replace the filter.

c. Using the rate valve removal tool (nail) or pliers
tighten (clockwise) the rate valve seat while holding
the metering tube in place with numbers of properscale facing front. Be sure the tube is centered overthe gasket holes.
d. When the metering tube no longer can be rotatedeasily, tighten the rate valve seat another ¼ to ½
turn. Do not over tighten so as to squash the gaskets
since this can cause a vacuum leak.

5.5.11 TO REASSEMBLE proceed as follows:

5.4.9 Replace the Rate Valve Plug assembly (RV-140) byplacing it into the top of the rate valve seat and gently
pushing down until the O-ring pops into the seat andthe threads can engage. Tighten down the rate valve a
few turns.

a. Replace the filter in the adaptor inlet using finger
pressure.
b. Replace the inlet valve seat (IV-110) and valve seato'ring (OR-104) if they were removed from theadaptor plug. A very light film of DC33 silicone
grease should be put on the o'ring and the seatslowly "pumped" into the adaptor plug.

5.5 Cleaning Inlet Safety Shut Off Valve and Seat
5.5.1 Remove the two screws holding the yoke body bar(YK-100) to the vacuum regulator body.

c. Insert the inlet valve plug (IV-130) through the valveseat.

5.5.2 Pull the entire yoke assembly from the vacuum regulator
body. A clockwise rotation helps if the o'ring seal istight. It should slip out relatively easily.
(Photo No. 5.10)

d. Place the inlet adaptor plug with the inlet valve plugfacing down on a smooth clean surface andproceed.

5.5.3 To disassemble the inlet capsule, turn the inlet adaptor
plug (IV-120) counter-clockwise. If the plug is tight, usea narrow pliers but be careful not to damage theadaptor o'ring (OR-106). The end of the valve plug(IV-130) is now exposed (Photo No. 5.11).

e. Insert the inlet spring guide/vent plug onto the inlet
spring and snap into place. Insert the inlet springwith guide/vent plug attached, into the inlet adaptor
plug recess.

5.5.4 Insert a screw driver into the slot in the end of the inlet
valve plug (IV-130) and unscrew the inlet vent plug/
spring guide (IV-145). This can often be unscrewed byhand. (Photo No. 5.12). If pliers are necessary makesure the rounded seat surface is not scratched. (NOTE:This assembly is in tension with the inlet spring(IV-160)
so be careful not to lose the vent plug/spring guide).

f. Compress the spring guide/vent plug and screw it on
to the inlet valve plug a few turns by hand.
g. Place a screwdriver in the inlet valve plug slot, holdthe spring guide/vent plug with the other hand andscrew down the spring guide/vent plug until thespring guide bottoms on the shoulder of the inlet
valve plug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN (Photo No.
5.15). The spring should compress until
approximately 1/32" (1mm) of clearance is observed
between the top of the adaptor plug and the bottomof the spring guide/vent plug. (NOTE: A screwdriver
tip that fits the inlet valve plug slot is a goodmeasuring tool).

5.5.5 Remove the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and inlet spring(IV-160).
5.5.6 Inspect the sealing surface of the inlet valve seat(IV-110). This surface must be completely free of dirt,
nicks, or scratches. A magnifying glass gives a good
indication of the quality of the seat. Use a cotton swab
dipped in lacquer thinner, acetone or alcohol tocarefully clean the seat. DO NOT attempt to clean theseat with a sharp tool. Replace the valve seat if it is notin perfect condition. (Normally it will not be necessary to
remove the valve seat from the inlet adaptor plug(IV-120) unless it needs to be replaced). To remove, use
one of the ammoniator body screws inserted throughthe inlet spring side of the adaptor plug. Place the headof the screw against a hard surface and push firmly on
the adaptor until the valve seat pops free. (Photo No.
5.13).
5.5.7 Immerse the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and vent plug(IV-150) in lacquer thinner or acetone. Usually a depositof crystalline organic material or a hard varnish likematerial will form along the valve stem below the valve
seating surface. Wipe the surfaces clean with a clean
cloth and inspect the tapered valve sealing surface, andthe rounded vent plug sealing surfaces. These surfaces
must be completely free of dirt, nicks and scratches.

14

5.18

5.19

5.20

5.21

15

h. Check alignment of valve stem assembly. It should
appear straight when viewed from any direction.

NOTE: Excessive use of lubricants can cause additional
service problems.

j. Screw the inlet adaptor plug assembly into the yokeassembly, clockwise. Use pliers and tighten until you
are certain the plug is bottomed. The plastic used inthis plug is very strong, just be careful that you do
not damage the inside of the adaptor plug OD
sealing o'ring groove. (Photo No. 5.16).

5.6.8 Reassemble the unit using the reverse procedure andcheck the following:a. Be certain that the main diaphragm seal o'ring(OR-108) is properly seated.
b. Be certain that the diaphragm assembly moves freely
in the front body. Press it forward several times to becertain it returns to "neutral position". (Photo No.
5.20).

i. Place the adaptor face seal O-ring (OR-103) into thegroove in the inlet adaptor.
5.5.12 Put a light film of DC33 silicone grease on the adaptor
plug OD sealing O-ring (OR-106). Also put a light film of
lubricant on the back body inlet seal (OR-113).

c. Place the back body (VR-110) on a table with thediaphragm body seal o'ring (OR-108) in place andlower the front body (VR-120)* onto it.

5.5.13 Insert the entire yoke assembly into the ammoniatorbody using a slight CLOCKWISE ROTATION. DO NOT
turn the yoke assembly counter-clockwise as aprecaution against unscrewing the inlet safety
capsule.

e. Grasp the entire unit and turn it over so the backbody is on top and re-assemble the four 1-1/2"(38mm) long screws. These screws should be run in
until they just begin to tighten.
5.6.9 Replace the yoke assembly using procedure describedin Section 5.5.13, turning it slightly CLOCKWISE as it isinserted.

5.6 Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body
Normally it is not necessary to completely disassemble theunit unless a thorough cleaning is necessary or parts needreplacing.

5.6.10 Tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern until they are allsnug. Do not over tighten. Sealing is accomplished by thelarge o'ring between the bodies (OR-108). THERE SHOULD
BE A GAP OF APPROXIMATELY 1/16" (1.6mm) BETWEENTHE TWO BODY HALVES. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLOSE
THIS GAP BY TIGHTENING THE BODY SCREWS. (PhotoNo. 5.21).

5.6.1 Remove the yoke assembly as described in Section
5.5.1 and 5.5.2.
5.6.2 If Necessary, remove the two small screws which holdthe faceplate onto the front body. Carefully remove thefaceplate.
5.63 Remove the four screws which hold the body assembly
together and separate the body halves. (Photo No.
5.17).

IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY LUBRICANT (DC 33 GREASE)ON THE FOLLOWING O-RINGS
OR107
OR-108
OR-109
OR-1105.6.4 Grasp the diaphragm back plate (VR-141)* and pull theentire diaphragm assembly out of the front body.
(NOTE: VR-140 and VR-160 are assembled as VR-141).
If the white indicator pin is sticking in the front body,carefully use a nail to push the pin through from thefront of the vacuum regulator.
(Photo No. 5.18).
5.6.5 Examine the diaphragm. It is normal for some wrinkles
to be present. The diaphragms are made of special,
very tough, ammonia resistant material and failure is
extremely unlikely.
Should it be necessary to disassemble the diaphragm
proceed as follows:a. Grasp both the front and back diaphragm plates andunscrew them. (Photo No. 5.19). If the plates cannot
be unscrewed by hand you may use a vise to clamp
one of the plates and use a strap wrench or marine
deck plate spanner wrench to unscrew the other.
b. The diaphragm can now be removed. Note theposition of the "convolution" on the diaphragm. The
raised portion should always face the back of theammoniator when installed.

Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc.

5.6.6 Clean the parts thoroughly using wood alcohol or Apple
Cider vinegar.

835 Edwards Road, Ft. Pierce, FL, 34982, USA(772) 461-0666
Fax: (772) 460-1847
E-Mail: Superior@chlorinators.com
www.chlorinators.com

5.6.7 Carefully inspect all o'rings for damage or wear andreplace if necessary.

16