Yves Saint Laurent,
Across the Style
Fashion passes, style remains.
wed2023.9.20 -12.11

monOrganized by: The National Art Center, Tokyo; The Sankei Shimbun; TBS;Sony Music Entertainment (Japan) Inc.
In partnership with: Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris With the special sponsorship of:With the support of: Embassy of France / French Institute of Japan; BS-TBS; TBS RADIO
With the sponsorship of: Sompo Holdings, Inc.; Nozaki Insatsu Shigyo Co., LTD.
With the cooperation of: Japan Airlines
With the collaboration of: Ueki & Associés

0
A Talent Emerges
0-1
Yves Saint Laurent with his mother, Lucienne,
Oran (Algeria), late 1930s
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print
0-2
Yves Saint Laurent with friends, Oran (Algeria),
late 1940s
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print
0-3
Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1958
Photograph by André Ostier
Silver gelatin print (2017)
0-4
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé during
renovation work to turn the haute couture house into
the Fondation, 5 avenue Marceau, Paris, 2004
Photograph by Patrick Demarchelier
Silver gelatin print (2017)
0-5
Yves Saint Laurent, Paris, 1969
Photograph by Jeanloup Sieﬀ
Silver gelatin print (2017)
0-6
Andy Warhol
Portrait of Yves Saint Laurent, 1974
Silk screen on canvas
0-7Childhood book, Pourquoi parler d’amour ?
1949
Gouache and ink on paper
0-8
Costumes for Oriane, Olivier, and Armide in theplay Renaud et Armide by Jean Cocteau (never made)1951
Gouache on colored paper
0-9
Yves Saint Laurent and his Paper Dolls, Oran
(Algeria), 1957
Photograph by François Pagès
Silver gelatin print
0 - 10
Suzy and two unnamed paper dolls, with items fromtheir wardrobe
1953-1955
Collage and gouache on paper｜ List of Works ｜• In general, the data on the plate pages is provided in Japanese as follows.
[Textiles] Number, title of work, date and season of production (spring-summer / fall-winter),prototype/clientʼs piece, atelier name, materials[Graphic arts] Number, title of work, date of production, media and material[Photographs] Number, title of work, date photographed, photographer, media[Jewelry accessories] Number, title of work, date and season of production(spring-summer/fall-winter), materials• Unless otherwise specified, all works in the exhibition are derived from the
Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
• The order of works in the exhibition do not necessarily correspond to that in which they
appear in the catalogue.
• The works in the exhibition may be changed due to unavoidable circumstances,and may not be exhibited during the exhibition period.

0 - 11
Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, and Colette
Bracchi next to their designs at the award ceremony of
the Secrétariat International de la Laine competition,
Paris, November 25, 1954
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print
0 - 12 - 1
La Vilaine Lulu, two storyboards from “Un jeudi dela Vilaine Lulu”
1956
Graphite pencil and red pencil on paper
0 - 12 - 2
La Vilaine Lulu, two storyboards from “Lʼannée
Lulu”
1956
Graphite pencil and red pencil on paper
0 - 12 - 3
La Vilaine Lulu, three storyboards from “Un choix
diﬃcile”
1956
Graphite pencil and red pencil on paper
0 - 13
Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent backstage atDior, 30 avenue Montaigne, Paris, c. 1956
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print (2016)
0 - 14“Dior Without Dior”
Yves Saint Laurent and models Victoire Doutreleau
and Christine Tidmarsh, 30 avenue Montaigne,
Paris, 1958
Cover of Paris Match, March 1, 1958
Photograph by Willy Rizzo
0 - 15
Original sketch for the design “Muguet”
Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior spring-summer
1958 “Trapeze Line” haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper
0 - 16
Original sketch for the design “Paris”
Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior spring-summer
1960 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper
0 - 17“Bonne conduite” shirt dress

Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent collection,
spring-summer 1958 “Trapeze Line” haute couturecollection
Prototype
Wool

Scan the QR for multilingual captions.

0 - 18
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé preparing theﬁrst fashion show, 11 rue Jean-Goujon, Paris,
December 1961
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print
0 - 19Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent at their house
Dar Es Saada, Marrakesh (Morocco), 1976
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print
0 - 20
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, 5 avenue
Marceau, Paris, 1983
Photograph by Alice Springs
Silver gelatin print
0 - 21
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, 5 avenue
Marceau, Paris, 1996
Photograph by Helmut Newton
Silver gelatin print

1
1962:
The First Haute Couture Collections
1-1
Boating ensemble, ﬁrst pea coat
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Ateliers Georges and Palas
Wool pea coat; shantung blouse and pants
1-2
Skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Ateliers Georges and Palas
Tweed jacket and skirt; shantung blouse(reproduction)
1-3
Skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Piece formerly owned by Michèle Levasseur,
Monsieur Saint Laurentʼs sister-Ateliers Georges
and Esther
Shantung
1-4
Skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Prototype formerly owned by Victoire
Doutreleau-Ateliers Georges and Palas
Shantung11-5
Formal dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece formerly owned by Denise Sarrault
Najar-Atelier Palas
Silk crepe cloqué

1 - 17
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for an evening gown
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch

1-6
Dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Silk jersey

1 - 18
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for an evening sailor sweater
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch

1-7
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece formerly owned by Countess
Jacqueline de Ribes-Atelier Palas
Cotton piqué; embroidery
1-8
Evening sailor sweater
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Palas
Embroidery

1 - 20Capeline for a formal dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Prototype
Rice paddy

1-9
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a boating ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch

1 - 21
Cloche hat for a daytime ensamble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
PrototypeTweed

1 - 10Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 11
Original sketch for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper with annotations in ink
1 - 12
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 13
Original sketch for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper
1 - 14
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 15
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a formal dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 16
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch

2

1 - 19Capeline for a cocktail ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Prototype
Rice paddy and plant ﬁber

1 - 22
Original sketch for a cocktail ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper with annotations in ink
1 - 23
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a cocktail ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 24
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a formal dress
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 25
Original sketch for a daytime ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper with annotations in ink
1 - 26
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,”for a daytime ensemble
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
1 - 27“Boating” collection board
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection

Graphite pencil and red pencil on graph paper
pinned with fabric swatches

1 - 28“Formal Dresses” collection board
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection

Graphite pencil and red pencil on graph paper
pinned with fabric swatches

1 - 29“Long Evening Dresses” collection board
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red pencil on graph paper
pinned with fabric swatches
1 - 30“Formal Ensembles” collection board
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection

Graphite pencil and red pencil on graph paper
pinned with fabric swatches

1 - 31“200 000 francs la chaise pour voir les robes
St. Laurent,” published in Paris Match, February 10, 1962
Photographs by Jack Garofalo

1 - 32“Paris Fashion News as a Great Beauty Wears It,”published in Vogue (USA), March 1, 1962
Photographs by William Klein

1 - 33“The Comeback of Yves St. Laurent,” published in
Life, April 9, 1962
Photographs by Pierre Boulat and Paul Schutzer

1 - 34
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent preparing theﬁrst fashion show, 11 rue Jean-Goujon, Paris, December 1961
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print (2013)
1 - 35Preparations for the ﬁrst fashion show, 11 rue
Jean-Goujon, Paris, December 1961
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print (2013)
1 - 36
Yves Saint Laurent and Victoire Doutreleaubackstage at his ﬁrst haute couture show, 30 bis rue
Spontini, Paris, January 29, 1962
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print (2013)
1 - 37First Yves Saint Laurent haute couture show, 30 bis
rue Spontini, Paris, January 29, 1962
Photograph by Pierre Boulat
Silver gelatin print (2013)

2
The Yves Saint Laurent Style:Iconic Pieces
2-1
TuxedoSpring-summer 1970 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Catherine
Wool and silk satin jacket and pants; silk satin blouse
2-2
TuxedoAutumn-winter 1971 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Blanche
Barathea wool and silk satin jacket and pants; silk
chiﬀon blouse
2-3
Jumpsuit
Autumn-winter 1968 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Georges
Wool jersey

2-4
Jumpsuit
Spring-summer 1975 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Atelier Catherine
Silk jersey

2 - 16
Pantsuit
Spring-summer 1999 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Colette
Wool canvas jacket and pants; silk chiﬀon blouse

2-5
Trench coat from an evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1970 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece formerly owned by Elisabeth
Lewy-Atelier Paul
Waxed silk satin

2 - 17
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1989 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Brocade lamé; silk satin

2-6
Trench coat from a daytime ensemble
Spring-summer 1976 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Calfskin
2-7First safari jacket
Spring-summer 1968 haute couture collection
Prototype not part of a collection
Cotton gabardine safari jacket and bermuda shorts
2-8
Pantsuit
Spring-summer 2000 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Alain
Wool gabardine safari jacket and pants
2-9
Cocktail sweater dress
Spring-summer 1966 haute couture collection
Prototype formerly owned by Gabrielle
Busschaert-Atelier Catherine
Embroidery2 - 10Skirt suitSpring-summer 1966 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Ateliers Renée and BlancheWool
2 - 11“Broadway Suit” daytime ensemble
Spring-summer 1978 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Georges

Flannel jacket; gabardine pants; silk crepon top

2 - 12
Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1978 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Gaby
Gabardine jacket and pants; silk satin crepe blouse
2 - 13
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1984 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Frédérique
Embroidered silk velvet jacket; barathea pants;
embroidered silk tulle top
2 - 14“Robe à la guitare” dress
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Catherine
Silk velvet, satin and organza; lace2 - 15
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1993 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Silk velvet, faille and tulle

2 - 18
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1989 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Brocade lamé; silk satin
2 - 19Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Alain
Silk gazar top; silk satin pants

2 - 28
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 2000 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Embroidered silk satin and tulle cape; satin and silk
velvet waistcoat; silk crepe skirt
2 - 29Original sketch for a trench coat from an evening
ensemble
Spring-summer 1970 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper2 - 30
Original sketch for a trench coat from a daytime
ensemble
Spring-summer 1976 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper2 - 31
Original sketch for a cocktail sweater dress
Spring-summer 1966 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and felt-tip pen on paper2 - 20“À lʼespagnole” dress-Homage to Maria Callas
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Faille lace; point dʼesprit tulle

2 - 32“Cocktail” collection board
Spring-summer 1966 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and felt-tip pen on graph paper
pinned with fabric swatches

2 - 21
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Catherine
Jacket of rooster, egret, and bird-of-paradisefeathers; embroidered sheath dress

2 - 33
Original sketch for a skirt suitSpring-summer 1966 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil on paper2 - 22
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1991 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Lamé tunic; silk satin pants
2 - 23
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1983 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Felisa
Silk faille coat; silk velvet and lace dress
2 - 24
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Gaby
Silk satin and faille2 - 25
Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1992 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Silk gazar coat; silk crepe dress
2 - 26
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1993 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Silk satin and velvet
2 - 27
Evening suit
Autumn-winter 1995 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Alain
Silk satin and velvet

2 - 34
Atelierʼs speciﬁcation sheet, or “Bible page,” for an
evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1984 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil and red and blue pencil on
perforated graph paper sewn with a fabric swatch
2 - 35“Embroideries” collection board
Autumn-winter 1984 haute couture collection
Graphite pencil, colored pencil, and red felt-tip pen
on graph paper pinned with fabric swatches

2 - 36
Evening ensemble worn by Mounia Orosemane
Autumn-winter 1983 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, July 1983
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 37
Evening ensemble worn by Amalia Vairelli
Spring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, January 1986
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 38
Evening ensemble worn by Ariane Koizumi
Spring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, January 1986
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 39Evening gown worn by Sylvie Gueguen
Autumn-winter 1989 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, July 1989
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print3

2 - 40“À lʼespagnole” dress worn by Gurmit KaurCampbell
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, January 1990
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 41
Evening ensemble worn by Sylvie Gueguen
Autumn-winter 1990 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, July 1990
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 42
Evening ensemble worn by Amalia Vairelli
Spring-summer 1992 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, January 1992
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print
2 - 43
Evening gown worn by Ewa Meissner
Autumn-winter 1993 haute couture collection
Hôtel Inter-Continental, Paris, July 1993
Photograph by Claus Ohm
Silver gelatin print

3
Artistry: Embroidery and Feathers
3-1
Cardigan from an evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1972 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Atelier Esther
Embroidery
3-2
Cardigan from an evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Embroidery
3-3
Cardigan from an evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Georges
Embroidery
3-4
Cardigan from an evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Gaby
Embroidery
3-5
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1986 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Silk organza; embroidery; rooster feathers
3-6
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1998 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Georgette and Alain
Bolero in silk organza and ostrich feathers;
silk satin dress
3-7
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 2000 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Alain
Rooster feather cape; panne silk velvet dress

4

4
Imaginary Travels
4-1
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1967 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece formerly owned by Dame Margot
Fonteyn-Atelier Esther
Raﬃa; embroidery
4-2“Des Tropiques” dress
Spring-summer 1967 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Blanche

Printed silk twill; silk organza; raﬃa and embroidery

4-3“Des Tropiques” dress
Spring-summer 1967 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Simone

Printed silk twill cloqué; silk organza; embroidery

4-4
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1976 “Opéra-Ballets Russes” hautecouture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre, Blanche andGermain
Embroidered silk velvet bolero; embroidered moiré
and silk velvet skirt; silk chiﬀon blouse
4-5
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1976 “Opéra-Ballets Russes” hautecouture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Esther and Germain
Printed silk chiﬀon blouse; moiré and silk velvet skirt
4-6
Daytime ensemble
Autumn-winter 1976 “Opéra-Ballets Russes” hautecouture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre, Lefort, and Georges
Coat in embroidered velvet calf leather;wool etamine skirt; wool blouse
4-7“Ensemble Torero” evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Felisa, Georges, and Jean-Pierre

Silk gazar cape; embroidered damask brocade jacket
and pants; silk taﬀeta blouse
4-8
Gypsy dress
Spring-summer 2000 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Colette
Embroidered silk organza top; printed silk chiﬀon
skirt
4-9
Formal ensemble
Autumn-winter 1970 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Catherine
Stamped silk velvet coat and skirt; georgette crepe
blouse4 - 10Formal ensemble
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre, Catherine, and Gaby
Wool jacket; silk velvet zouave pants; silk velvet
bustier and wool cape4 - 11
Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece formerly owned by Mrs. Thomas
Kempner-Atelier Catherine
Silk chiﬀon
4 - 12
Ensemble
Spring-summer 1989 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Gaby
Embroidered silk gazar cape; silk chiﬀon dress andbelt
4 - 13
Ensemble
Spring-summer 1989 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Marie and Renée
Embroidered silk gazar cape; silk chiﬀon dress andbelt
4 - 14
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1978 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Catherine
Figured silk crepe
4 - 15
Evening suit
Autumn-winter 1997 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Alain
Silk velvet jacket and skirt; embroidered silk satinbow
4 - 16
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1970 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Georges
Embroidered silk satin tunic and pants; silk velvetbelt
4 - 17
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1977 “Les Chinoises” haute couturecollection
Prototype-Ateliers Jean-Pierre and Lefort
Silk satin paletot and pants; silk blouse
4 - 18
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1977 “Les Chinoises” haute couturecollection
Prototype-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Damask redingote; silk satin pants
4 - 19Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1977 “Les Chinoises” haute couturecollection
Prototype-Ateliers Gaby and Lefort
Coat and dress in printed ﬁgured silk crepe

5
Fashion History
5-1
Dress
Spring-summer 2002 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Georgette
Silk chiﬀon
5-2
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1997 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Colette
Silk velvet and satin

5-3
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1997 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Arlette
Embroidered silk velvet and satin
5-4
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Embroidered ﬁgured silk moiré
5-5
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1977 “Les Chinoises” haute couturecollection
Prototype-Atelier Catherine
Silk velvet; damask
5-6“Louis XV” evening gown-Homage to ChristianDior
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Catherine
Brocade

5-7
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1995 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Arlette
Embroidered silk satin
5-8
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1994 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Arlette
Silk damask
5-9
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 1978 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Felisa
Silk velvet, moiré and taffeta
5 - 10Evening gown
Spring-summer 1996 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Silk faille and taﬀeta
5 - 11
Evening gown
Autumn-winter 1990 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Gaby
Silk faille5 - 12
Wedding gown
Spring-summer 1981 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Felisa
Printed silk organza
5 - 13
Evening ensemble
Autumn-winter 2000 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Alain and Colette
Silk damask and pekan fur paletot; lace dress
5 - 14
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1997 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Arlette
Embroidered silk organza

5 - 15
Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1980 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Felisa
Silk satin coat; embroidered silk satin dress
5 - 16
Evening ensemble
Spring-summer 1996 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Fox coat; silk satin and lace dress
5 - 17
Garment for the statue of the Virgin of El Rocío
1985
Silk brocade with silk satin; silk lace; metal withcrystalsLong term loan of Parish of Notre-Dame deCompassion in Paris
5 - 18
Wedding gown
Autumn-winter 1977 “Les Chinoises” haute couturecollection
Prototype-Ateliers Felisa and Esther
Silk cloqué; lace6
Cabinet of Curiosities: Jewels
6-1
Necklace
Spring-summer 1962 haute couture collection
Strass, glass paste cabochon, and faceted jet beads
6-2
Necklace
Autumn-winter 1963 haute couture collection
Gold metal, hammered metal, and glass paste
cabochon

6-9
Necklace
Spring-summer 1978 haute couture collection
Cords, passementerie, and gold metal thread
6 - 10
Brooch and hairpins
Autumn-winter 1976 and 1978 haute couturecollection
Glass paste cloisonné and gold metal
6 - 11
Earrings
Spring-summer 1979 haute couture collection
Gold metal, synthetic mother-of-pearl beads,
and glass paste cabochons
6 - 12
Brooches
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Silver or gold metal, strass pavé, and faceted
cabochons
6 - 13
Earrings
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Gold metal, strass pavé, and glass paste cabochons
6 - 14
Comb
Spring-summer 1980 haute couture collection
Gold metal, strass, and synthetic cabochon
6 - 15
Necklace
Spring-summer 1983 haute couture collection
Gold metal, glass paste, strass, and baroque beads
6 - 16
Necklace
Spring-summer 1985 haute couture collection
Beads, ceramic pieces, and passementerie cords

6-3
Necklace
Autumn-winter 1966 haute couture collection
Gold metal, glass paste cabochons, and synthetic
mother-of-pearl beads

6 - 17
BroochAutumn-winter 1985 haute couture collection
Silver metal, strass pavé, beads, and synthetic motherof-pearl

6-4
Earrings
Spring-summer 1967 haute couture collection
Gray metal, strass, and faceted synthetic stone

6 - 18
Earrings
Autumn-winter 1985 haute couture collection
Gold metal and faceted glass stone

6-5
Necklace
Autumn-winter 1970 haute couture collection
Beads, gold metal, and glass paste cabochons

6 - 19
BroochSpring-summer 1986 haute couture collection
Gold metal, strass, and glass paste cabochon

6-6
Sautoir necklace
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Openwork gold metal, synthetic mother-of-pearl
beads and cabochons, strass, and glass paste beads

6 - 20Bracelets
Spring-summer 1987 haute couture collection
Gold metal and strass

6-7
Earrings, brooches, and bracelet
Spring-summer and autumn-winter 1971 andspring-summer 1981 haute couture collection
Silver metal, galalithe and strass
6-8
Necklace
Autumn-winter 1977 haute couture collection
Gold metal, resin, openwork metal, glass paste
cabochons, and beads

6 - 21
Earrings
Autumn-winter 1987 haute couture collection
Gold metal, silver strass, and glass paste cloisonné
cabochons
6 - 22
Earrings
Spring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Silver and gold metal, ceramic painted, and polished
ebony

5

6 - 23
Earrings
Spring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Ebony, snakewood, mother-of-pearl, and gold metal
6 - 24
Necklace
Autumn-winter 1988 haute couture collection
Gold metal and rock crystal stone
6 - 25
Earrings
Spring-summer 1988 and 1989 haute couturecollection
Polished shells, strass, and gold metal
6 - 26
Earrings
Spring-summer 1989 haute couture collection
Gold and copper metal
6 - 27
Bracelets
Spring-summer 1990 haute couture collection
Thyine wood and rosewood or ebony
6 - 28Necklace
Autumn-winter 1993 haute couture collection
Gold metal, glass paste and synthetic mother-ofpearl beads, and velvet
6 - 29
BroochSpring-summer 1995 haute couture collection
Gold metal, faux coral, and strass
6 - 30Earrings
Spring-summer 1990, 1997, and 2002 andautumn-winter 1966 haute couture collection
Wood, strass, and mother-of-pearl squares, andsynthetic mother-of-pearl cabochon, ceramic
6 - 31
Earrings
Spring-summer 1995 and autumn-winter 1999
haute couture collection
Gold metal, faceted synthetic stones, and paint6 - 32BraceletSpring-summer 1995 haute couture collection
Openwork gold metal and strass
6 - 33
Hairpins
Spring-summer 1996 and 2000 haute couturecollection
Gold metal, faux coral, glass, and synthetic beads
6 - 34
Earrings
Autumn-winter 2000 haute couture collection
Gray metal, strass feathers, beads, and glass
6 - 35Pendant and bracelet
Spring-summer 2002 haute couture collection
Shells, coral branches, polished shell, and gold metal
6 - 36
Headdress
Spring-summer 1980 haute couture collection
Tulle, beads, and paillettes

67
Performing Arts –Graphic Arts
7-1
Childhood sketch
Gouache on paper
7-2Childhood sketch
Gouache on paper
7-3
Sketch for the set of the Queenʼs chamber (never made)in the play L’Aigle à deux têtes by Jean Cocteau, 1951
Gouache on colored paper
7-4
Sketch of a costume for the Queen in the play
La Reine Margot (never made), based on the novel
by Alexandre Dumas, 1953
Gouache on colored paper
7-5
Sketch of a costume for the Queen in the play
La Reine Margot (never made), based on the novel
by Alexandre Dumas, 1953
Gouache on colored paper
7-6
Sketch of a costume for Comte Almaviva in the play
Le Mariage de Figaro by Beaumarchais
Directed by Jean Louis Barrault, Odéon Théâtre delʼEurope, Paris, 1964
Ink, gouache, and pastel on colored paper
7-7Sketch of a hairstyle for “Marceline” in the play
Le Mariage de Figaro by Beaumarchais
Directed by Jean Louis Barrault, Odéon Théâtre delʼEurope, Paris, 1964
Ink on paper
7-8
Sketch for the set of the Queenʼs chamber in the play
L’Aigle à deux têtes by Jean Cocteau
Directed by Jean-Pierre Dusseaux, Théâtre delʼAthénée-Louis-Jouvet, Paris, 1978
Felt-tip pen on paper
7-9
Sketch of costumes for Mrs. Patrick Campbell and
Mr. George Bernard Shaw in the play Cher Menteur
by Jean Cocteau
Directed by Jérôme Kilty, Théâtre de lʼAthénée-Louis Jouvet, Paris, 1980
Felt-tip pen and pastel on paper
7 - 10Sketch of a costume for the revue “Scaramouche” inZizi Jeanmaire dans un grand spectacle de music-hall
Directed by Roland Petit, Théâtre de lʼAlhambra,
Paris, 1961
Graphite pencil on paper
7 - 11
Sketch of a costume for the revue “Scaramouche” inZizi Jeanmaire dans un grand spectacle de music-hall
Directed by Roland Petit, Théâtre de lʼAlhambra,
Paris, 1961
Graphite pencil on paper

7 - 12
Sketch of Ziziʼs costume in the revue “Le Champagnerosé” in Spectacle Zizi Jeanmaire
Directed by Roland Petit, Palais de Chaillot, Paris,
1963
Ink, gouache, pastel, and watercolor on paper
7 - 13
Sketch for the set of the revue “Le H” in La Revue
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris,
1970
Felt-tip pen, ink, and gouache on colored paper
7 - 14
Sketch of a costume for “Miroir” in the revue“Venise” in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink and gouache on paper
7 - 15
Sketch of a costume for the revue “Cancan Cubain”
in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink, gouache, and felt-tip pen on paper
7 - 16
Sketch of a costume for “La Sultane au turban bleu”
in the revue “Le Réveil du Sultan” in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink and gouache on paper
7 - 17
Sketch of costumes for “Demoiselles de petite vertu”
in the revue “Les Millionnaires” in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink, gouache, and felt-tip pen on paper
7 - 18Sketch of a costume for “Final” in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink and pastel on paper
7 - 19Sketch of costumes for the revue “Venise” in Zizi jet’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Ink and gouache on paper
7 - 20Sketch of costumes for “Balayeur” and “Première
femme” in the ballet Le Balayeur, based on the poemby Jacques Prévert (never made), 1951
Gouache on colored paper
7 - 21
Sketch of costumes for the scene “La Rôtisserie”
in the ballet Cyrano de Bergerac
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Théâtre delʼAlhambra, Paris, 1959
Ink and pastel on paper
7 - 22
Sketch of costumes for “Garçons” in the ballet
La Chaloupée
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Copenhagen
Opera, Copenhagen, 1961
Gouache and pastel on colored paper
7 - 23
Sketch of costumes for “Filles” and “La Mariée”
in the ballet La Chaloupée
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Copenhagen
Opera, Copenhagen, 1961
Gouache and pastel on colored paper7 - 24
Sketch of a costume for the ballet “Rapsodie
Espagnole” in the show Festival populaire de Ballets
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Palais de Chaillot,
Paris, 1962
Ink on paper
7 - 25
Sketch for the set of the ballet “Maldoror”
in the show Festival populaire de Ballets
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Palais de Chaillot,
Paris, 1962
Ink and pastel on paper
7 - 26
Sketch for the set of the ballet “Maldoror”
in the show Festival populaire de Ballets
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Palais de Chaillot,
Paris, 1962
Ink on paper
7 - 27
Sketch of costumes for the ballet “Mascarade”
in the show Festival populaire de Ballets
Choreographed by Roland Petit, Palais de Chaillot,
Paris, 1962
Gouache and pastel on colored paper
7 - 28Sketch for the set of “LʼÉglise” in the ballet Le Diable
amoureux (never made)c. 1965
Gouache and pastel on colored paper
7 - 29Sketch of costume designs for the ballet Entrées(never made)c. 1962
Gouache and pastel on colored paper
7 - 30“Love” greeting card from 1970

Printed paper

7 - 31“Love” greeting card from 1972
Printed paper
7 - 32“Love” greeting card from 1985
Printed paper
7 - 33“Love” greeting card from 1989
Printed paper
7 - 34“Love” greeting card from 1992
Printed paper
7 - 35“Love” greeting card from 2000
Printed paper
7 - 36“Love” greeting card from 2002
Printed paper
7 - 37“Love” greeting card from 2007
Printed paper

8
Performing Arts–Textiles
8-1
Séverine Serizyʼs dress
Design made for Catherine Deneuve for the ﬁlm
Belle de Jour by Luis Buñuel and based on the novel
by Joseph Kessel, 1967
Wool barathea; silk satin
8-2
Arletteʼs dress
Design made for Anny Duperey for the ﬁlm Stavisky
by Alain Resnais, 1974
Gauﬀered silk crepe; silk chiﬀon
8-3
The Queenʼs dress (Act I)
Design made for Geneviève Page for the play L’Aigle àdeux têtes by Jean Cocteau, directed by Jean-Pierre
Dusseaux at the Théâtre de lʼAthénée-Louis Jouvet,
Paris, 1978
Stamped silk velvet and cut silk velvet; passementerie
8-4
The Queenʼs dress (Act Ⅱ)
Design made for Geneviève Page for the play L’Aigle àdeux têtes by Jean Cocteau, directed by Jean-Pierre
Dusseaux at the Théâtre de lʼAthénée-Louis Jouvet,
Paris, 1978
Silk taﬀeta, organza and velvet; passementerie
8-5
Ensemble
Design for Zizi Jeanmaire for the revue “Ouverture”
in La Revue, directed by Roland Petit at the Casino
de Paris, 1970
Coat of ostrich and rooster feathers on organza;minidress with embroidery on cotton mesh
8-6
Sweater
Design for Zizi Jeanmaire for the revue “Mon truc en
plumes” in La Revue, 1970
Embroidery and ostrich feathers
8-7
Dress
Design for Zizi Jeanmaire for the revue “What Is
That Thing Called Love” in the show Zizi je t’aime,
directed by Roland Petit at the Casino de Paris, 1972
Embroidered silk organza; ostrich feathers
8-8JacketDesign for Zizi Jeanmaire for the show Zizi dans un
spectacle de Roland Petit, directed by Roland Petit at
the Théâtre Bobino, 1977
Silk satin; pheasant and ostrich feathers
8-9
Sketch of a costume for Catherine Deneuve as
Séverine Serizy in the ﬁlm Belle de Jour, directed by
Luis Buñuel and based on the novel by Joseph Kessel,
1967
Felt-tip pen and graphite pencil on paper
8 - 10Sketch of a costume for Anny Duperey as Arlette inthe ﬁlm Stavisky, directed by Alain Resnais, 1974
Graphite pencil on paper

8 - 11
Sketch of a costume for the Queen in Act I of theplay L’Aigle à deux têtes by Jean Cocteau
Directed by Jean-Pierre Dusseaux, Théâtre delʼAthénée-Louis-Jouvet, Paris, 1978
Graphite pencil and colored pencil on paper
8 - 12
Sketch of a costume for the Queen in Act II of theplay L’Aigle à deux têtes by Jean Cocteau
Directed by Jean-Pierre Dusseaux, Théâtre delʼAthénée-Louis-Jouvet, Paris, 1978
Graphite pencil and felt-tip pen on paper
8 - 13
Sketch of a costume for Zizi Jeanmaire for the revue“Ouverture” in La Revue
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris,
1970
Felt-tip pen and graphite pencil on paper
8 - 14
Sketch of a costume for Zizi Jeanmaire in Le Show
Zizi Jeanmaire
Directed by Roland Petit, Théâtre de l'Olympia,
Paris, 1968
Felt-tip pen and graphite pencil on paper
8 - 15
Sketch of a costume for the revue “What Is ThatThing Called Love” in Zizi je t’aime !
Directed by Roland Petit, Casino de Paris, Paris, 1972
Felt-tip pen on paper
8 - 16
Sketch of a costume for Zizi dans un spectacle deRoland Petit
Directed by Roland Petit, Théâtre Bobino, Paris,
1977
Felt-tip pen on paper

9
Homage to Artists
9-1
Cocktail dress-Homage to Piet Mondrian
Autumn-winter 1965 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Atelier Blanche
Wool jersey
9-2
Cocktail dress-Homage to Serge Poliakoﬀ
Autumn-winter 1965 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esdine
Wool jersey
9-3
Cocktail dress-Homage to Pop Art
Autumn-winter 1966 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Blanche
Wool jersey
9-4
Cocktail dress-Homage to Pop Art
Autumn-winter 1966 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Blanche
Wool jersey
9-5“Les Iris” jacket from an evening ensemble-Homage

to Vincent van Gogh
Spring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Silk organza; embroidery

79-6
Evening ensemble-Homage to Georges BraqueSpring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jacqueline
Embroidered silk gazar cape; silk satin dress

9 - 14
Dress-Homage to Pablo Picasso
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Silk velvet; embroidery in silk taﬀeta, satin andottoman

9-7
Evening ensemble-Homage to Georges BraqueSpring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Prototype-Ateliers Yuksel and Renée
Cape in embroidered linen canvas; silk crepe, satin
and chiﬀon dress
9-8
Wedding gown-Homage to Georges BraqueSpring-summer 1988 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Tulle ; satin and sequins accessories
9-9
Dress inspired by Henri Matisse
Autumn-winter 1980 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Silk velvet and moiré; silk satin and taﬀeta embroidery

10
The Brides

11 - 4
Evening gown
Spring-summer 1963 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Embroidered organdy top; silk satin faille skirt

10 - 1“Babouchka” wedding gown
Autumn-winter 1965 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Knit wool; silk satin ribbons

11 - 5
Yves Saint Laurent during his ﬁrst trip to Japan,
Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara, April 1963
Unknown photographer
Photo album

10 - 2 - 1
Wedding gown
Autumn-winter 1994 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Renée
Silk damask lamé; silk taﬀeta; embroidery

11 - 6
Yves Saint Laurent surrounded by his models during
the presentation of his autumn-winter haute couturecollection, Tokyo, November 1975
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print

10 - 2 - 2, 10 - 2 - 3
Bridesmaidʼs dresses
Autumn-winter 1994 haute couture collection
Prototypes-Ateliers Renée and Durandaud
Quilted silk lamé; silk taﬀeta; lace

9 - 10
Dress inspired by Henri Matisse
Autumn-winter 1981 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Felisa
Silk taﬀeta and velvet

10 - 3
Wedding gown
Spring-summer 1999 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Colette
Lurex silk gazar

9 - 11
Jacket from an evening ensemble-Homage to
Pierre Bonnard
Autumn-winter 1988 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Jean-Pierre
Organza; embroidery

9 - 13
Evening gown-Homage to Pablo Picasso
Autumn-winter 1979 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Tulle; emboidery in silk satin, faille, taﬀeta and velvet

11 - 7
Presentation of the autumn-winter haute couturecollection, Tokyo, November 1975
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print
11 - 8Presentation of the autumn-winter haute couturecollection, Tokyo, November 1975
Unknown photographer
Silver gelatin print
11 - 9Soen, May 1963
Bunka Publishing Bureau
Collection of the Bunka Gakuen Library

11
Yves Saint Laurent and Japan

9 - 12
Dress-Homage to Pierre Bonnard
Spring-summer 2001 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Colette
Organza

11 - 3
Gala gown
Spring-summer 1963 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Embroidered tulle

11 - 1
Formal ensemble
Spring-summer 1963 haute couture collection
Clientʼs piece-Ateliers Esther and RenéSurah
11 - 2Dress
Spring-summer 1963 haute couture collection
Prototype-Atelier Esther
Wool; organdy

11 - 10
Yukio Mishima, The School of Flesh (First Edition)
Shueisha, 1964
The National Art Center, Tokyo
11 - 11
Exhibition Catalogue of Mode 1958-1990: Yves Saint
Laurent
Sezon Museum of Art, 1990
The National Art Center, TokyoENTRANCE

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THEATER

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LOUNGE

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SHOP

EXIT

• The order of display may diﬀer from that found in the
exhibition catalogue.
• There may be changes in works exhibited.
• Temperature, humidity and lighting in the gallery arestrictly controlled for the conservation of works under
the provisions of international standards and the lender'scondition of loan.
• Related materials regarding the exhibition can be referredat the Art Library on the 3rd ﬂoor.