ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS
Issue No. 34, August 2018

CONTENTS

Page 2~21
Himalayan Expedition Spring 2018 News – August
British-German Expedition to Rongdo Valley, Indian Himalaya
First Ascent of Phokto Scheyok (‘Black Pyramid Peak’) 6235m
East Karakoram 23rd July 2018
Page 22~32
Audrey Salkeld Mountain Archive

Page 33~34

Andes. Perú. Cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash. Jurau A y B.
Escaladas de Andrés, Gómez, Valle y Aranda
Page 35~42
Andes. Perú. Cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash. Jurau A y B.
Asociación ilógica de nombres
Page 43~48
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Himalayan Expedition Spring 2018 News - August

Dear Friends,
Namaste, Tashidelek and warm greetings from Nepal.
It has been a long time since I wrote to you all. In fact, since the devastating earthquake struck
Nepal in 2015, I unfortunately lost contact with many of you. As you can imagine, manychanges have occurred in Nepal and the Himalayan Mountains since then. Starting again withthis letter, I plan to keep you all in the loop with news from our Mountains.
Firstly, on my own professional capacity, I would like to let you all know that after serving my
4th term as the President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, I decided not to contest
another election. On 4th July 2017, Mr. Santa Bir Lama, was elected as the new president of
NMA. I wish him good luck in his very important position and extend my blessings so that hemay continue to bring prestige and progress to the organization, just as I have always strived
to do myself.
Though I remain on the board of the NMA as IPP, I will be focusing a lot of my time now on
Honorary Consular Corps Nepal, to which I have been elevated to the post of Dean for 20182019. I am also supporting my son Dawa Steven with running our Trekking and Expeditions
Business (Asian Trekking) as he is spending more and more time in the field with his own brandof hands-on management. Thirdly, I am also running a climate change advocacy organization"Climate Alliance of Himalayan Communities" (CAHC) to give a voice to the plight of themountain communities suffering the consequences of global climate change. I will be updating
you on the various projects in the future newsletters.

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Through my newsletters, I aim to share with you the stories and events of the climbing worldin Nepal and Tibet. I will also continue to share with you important news from the Himalayan
mountaineering world such as accomplishments, felicitations, festivals, celebrations, andupcoming events in the calendar.
I am also excited to inform you that I continue to study and analyze the climbs and summits on
Everest and other 8000m Himalayan peaks; to document records and remarkable climbs inthe past climbing season; to summarize the Himalayan mountaineering industry and examine
what the economic and financial contributions of the mountaineering industry has had on
Nepal. I also keep a close eye on the government's ever-evolving tourism policies onmountaineering expedition and adventure tourism such as rescue, insurance, garbage
management, mountain environment protection, fee structures, etc. In the interest of keeping
my newsletters short and manageable, I will try to focus on a particular theme in each future
newsletter.
I will make the newsletter available on our website www.asian-trekking.com. Please feel free
to contact me if you would like me to write in the next newsletter about any specific issues orprovide more information on any particular topics. I can be reached at angtshering@asiantrekking.com. I have created an archive of my past newsletters in our website http://www.asiantrekking.com/ which will be updated with all my old and new newsletters.
You can also follow me on Facebook for more regular posts and photographs of the specifictopics I cover in my newsletters.https://www.facebook.com/angtshering.sherpa.37

Summary of the Spring Climbing Season 2018:
For those who missed the importance of this year, it was the 65th Anniversary of the first ascentof Mt. Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. It was also the 40th
anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Everest without supplemental oxygen. A feat achieved byReinhold Messner and Peter Habeler the 8th of May 1978.

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A great victory for the all mountaineers is that on the 26 th June 2018, the Supreme Court of
Nepal overturned the Nepal Government's ban on disabled and blind persons from climbing
Mountains in Nepal. We had been fighting hard for this and I know that many of you aroundthe world shared our dissatisfaction in this blatant act of discrimination.
It was another busy and very successful mountaineering season for Asian Trekking this Spring,both in Nepal and in Tibet. The data also shows that it was a busy year for the industry as awhole, which I have covered later in this newsletter. Asian Trekking had 3 expeditions on the
Nepal Side of Mt. Everest, 1 expedition on the Tibet Side of Mt. Everest and 2 Expeditions on
Mt. Kanchenjunga. 3 of those expeditions were private groups, while 3 were international
joining teams.

Asian Trekking's Mt. Everest Expedition:
Eco Everest Expedition 2018:
This year the Eco Everest Expedition was led by our veteran sirdar Naga Dorje Sherpa,
supported by senior cook Birbal Tamang. The day to day affairs of the expedition as well thegeneral well being of the climbers were take care of by Dr. Ben Clark, expedition doctor andbase camp manager.

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Our long time friend from Mexico, David Liano was the Expedition Leader, and the expedition
had a total of 14 members, while there were 14 Climbing Sherpas, 4 Base Camp cooks and 2
Camp II cooks. The Nationalities represented in the team were Mexico, Denmark, South Africa,
India and Nepal. Nine of the fourteen members summited.

BSF Everest Expedition Spring 2018:
The highly respected Mr. Love Raj Dharamshaktu of India, led the 15 man climbing team fromthe Border Security Force to Mt. Everest .All the 15 members and 15 Sherpas of the BSF teamsuccessfully summited Mt. Everest with 100% success rate. This makes the BSF team the4largest team to have a 100% success rate. Clearly the experience of expedition leader and Mr.
Dharamshaktu made the huge difference, as he broke his own record by being the first Indian
to reach the summit of Everest for the 7th time.
The Expedition Sirdar of the team was our dynamic young climber, Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa of
Khumjung and the head chef was the veteran Kalu Bansnet.

This year, Asian Trekking implemented the "Cash for Trash" programme through the BSF team
who took inspiration from the Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi's Swatch Bharat Campaign(Clean India Campaign). By the end of the season, the expedition logged 700kgs of garbage

5collected from Mt. Everest. We are grateful to the BSF team for your dedication towards aclean environment.

Uttarakhand Police Everest Expedition 2018
Asian Trekking also conducted the Uttarakhand Police Mt. Everest Expedition this past season.
The Expedition was led by I.G. Sanjay Gunjiyal (I.P.S.) and the team members were mainly
from the State Disaster Response Force.8 of the climbing members summited, together with 8
Asian Trekking Sherpas, making them the first state police force in the world to do so.

The expedition Sirdar was our very experienced Ang Sandu Sherpa and the head chef for theteam was Pasang Tamang. In 2017, Ang Sandu had led the ONGC team to the summit of Mt.
Everest.

International Everest Expedition (Tibet Side) Spring 2018:
Asian Trekking conducted a small expedition with 6 members to Mt. Everest on the Tibet side.
3 members were only planning to go the North Col (7000m) while the other 3 were planningfor the summit. We are happy to report that all three summit members reached the top together
with 3 Asian Trekking sherpas.

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The Sirdar for the Expedition was Nawang Tenjing and the head Chef for the team was Nawang
Pasang Sherpa.

Asian Trekking's Mt. Kanchenjunga Expeditions:
Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m) is the world's 3rd highest peak and lies on the border between
Nepal and India. Kanchenjunga is the highest mountain of India and even features on its 100
Rupee notes. Kanchenjunga is one of the toughest mountains to organize an expedition to due
to its sheer size, technical difficulty, temperamental weather and the remoteness of its location.
Asian Trekking had two teams on the mountains, plus a separate rope fixing team of 8 expert
climbing Sherpas who opened the route all the way to the summit of the peak.
A point to note on Kanchenjunga was that after all the acclimatization rotations were completed
in the weeks before hand, both Asian Trekking teams made a summit push in the second weekof May, only to be denied success by the unpredictable weather which turned hostile. The
teams returned down to Kanchenjunga Base Camp to reassess the option. At this time, myson Dawa Steven, who was in Everest Base camp for just 3 days to coordinate the summit

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bids of the Everest teams, decided to fly immediately to Kanchenjunga BC and reorganize thesummit efforts there too.

To my great surprise, 3 days later I received a phone call from Dawa Steven, who was now atCamp 4 on Kanchenjunga and making final preparations to launch the summit push in the next
hour. He led the summit push from the front, heading up with the rope fixing team to open theroute all the way to the summit on the 20th of May 2018. His efforts resulted in the single mostsuccessful season on Kanchenjunga. Of the 44 Climbers who summited Kanchenjunga inspring 2018, 35 were Asian Trekking expedition members and Sherpas, led by Dawa Steven.

ONGC Kanchenjunga Expedition Spring 2018:
After conducting the ONGC's successful expedition to Mt. Everest in 2017, Asian Trekking wasagain awarded the contract to conduct the ONGC expedition to Kanchenjunga this year. The
team consisted of 12 climbing members and 3 base camp members. 10 of the 12 members
summited Mt. Kanchenjunga together with 11 Sherpas.
ONGC Kanchenjunga expedition also collected 300Kgs of Garbage scattered throughout basecamp. The garbage has been bagged in nylon sacks and kept in sheltered storage near the8helipad. Unfortunately, due to the lack of porters and helicopters, it was not possible to bring
the garbage from base camp this year. We hope to do so at another opportune time.

The Expedition Sirdar was Pasang Sherpa (Ghunsa) who logged his 4th summit on
Kanchenjunga this year and the head Chef was our very own Maila Magar, who was also thehead chef for the ONGC Everest Expedition 2017

International Kanchenjunga Expedition Spring 2018:
The International Kanchenjunga expedition consisted of 9 climbing members, representing
Mexico, Holland, Greece, Georgia, Italy and India. Members on International joining teams
tend to have different climbing strategies and philosophies. This was also the case this yearwith our team members, where some of the members attempted without Sherpa support andwithout supplemental oxygen, whereas some members had full support. 5 members and 5
High Altitude Sherpas of the group successfully summited.

9The international team was managed by our Sirdar Pemba Tshering Sherpa (Maila) and thehead cook for the team was Bhuwan Limbu, who himself is from the Kanchenjunga region.

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Climbers from the Asian Trekking International Kanchenjunga Expedition team (L–R) Antonios Sykaris and Fotios Theocharis ( first Greeks to summit Mt.
Kanchejunga ) , International team Sirdar Pemba Tshering Sherpa (Maila), Arjun
Vajpai (The youngest person to summit six 8000m peaks in the world ) Alessandro
D'emilia along with Harshad Rao (not in picture) successfully summited Mt.
Kanchejunga

What are the latest climbing statistics of Mt. Everest?
Between 1953 and 2017, the total number of ascents on Mount Everest was 8306 by 4,830
individuals (some having summited more than once). This year's spring has seen 465 more
ascents from Nepal. Similarly, there were 235 summits from Tibet. In summary, the total
number of ascent of Mt. Everest until today is 9006 whereas the Number of total deaths on Mt.
Everest is 290 climbers.

What are the latest climbing statistics of Mt. Kanchenjuga?
Between 1955 and 2017, the total number of ascents on Mount Kanchenjunga was 334 by 312
individuals (some having summited more than once). In summary, the total number of ascentof Mt. Kanchenjunga until today is 334 + 44 climbers from this spring season = 378 ascents.
Of these climbers, the number of female summiteers on Mt Kanchenjunga until 2017 was 12
Female Climbers. This spring season saw an additional 5 female climbers who reached thetop, bring the total of female Kanchenjunga summiteers to 17. The total number of total deaths
on Mt. Kanchenjunga is 48 climbers until today.

11World Records and Remarkable Climbs of Spring 2018:
Kami Rita Sherpa reached the top of Mt. Everest for a World Record 22 times, passing therecord (21 times) held by Apa Sherpa for 7 years while leading Asian Trekking's Eco Everest
Expeditions. Kami Rita Sherpa 48 year old, resident of Thame village, reached the top ofworld's highest peak for the 22nd time on16 May 2018 at 8:30 am.
Female climber Ms. Lhakpa Sherpa, age 44, resident of Tashigaun village, made it to the top
for the 9th time from North side of Mt. Everest 16 May 2018 - breaking the record for the mostEverest summits by a woman.
Leader of Eco Everest Expedition Mr. David Liano Gonzalez, Guinness world record holder
for being the "First Person to Climb Both Sides of Mt. Everest in One Season" and Pasang
Rita Sherpa summited Mt Everest on 20 May at 5:58 am. This is David's 7th time on Mt.
Everest. He broke his own previous record for the most summits on Mt. Everest for a Mexican
national
BSF Everest Expedition Leader, Mr. Love Raj Dharamshaktu of India summitted Mt. Evereston 20 th May at 06:30 am. This is his 7th time to summit Mt. Everest. He broke his own previous
record for the most summits on Mt. Everest for an Indian national.
This year a new record was created; Ms. Sheetal from India became the youngest female tosummit Mt. Kanchenjunga, at the age of 22.
Another notable summit was that by Arjun Vajpai, India's rising mountaineering star. At 24,
Arjun hold the enviable title of being the youngest person to summit six 8000m mountains. He
has previously climbed Mt. Everest 8848m, Mt. Manaslu 8163m, Mt. Lhotse 8516m, Mt. Makalu
8486m and Mt. Cho Oyu 8201m. The sky is the limit for this young man and I look forward toseeing his many achievements in the future.
Amongst those who summited Kanchenjunga was also my old friend Antonios Sykaris, who
led a small two man team, making them the first Greeks to reach the top of Mt. Kanchenjunga.
Antonios had similarly led a small two man team to the top of Mt. Everest in 2017. We areproud to support his expeditions.

12Upcoming Expeditions of Asian Trekking:
Mt. Manaslu and Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition (Autumn 2018)
In September and October of 2018, Asian Trekking will be organizing a Double Summit
Expedition to Mt. Manaslu (8156m) and Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m). The Expedition will be led by
my son Dawa Steven Sherpa. This is what he has to say about the upcoming Expedition"I am leading a team on a double-summit expedition to Mt. Manaslu and Mt. Dhaulagiri thisautumn (The 8th and 7th highest mountains in the world respectively).
We will attempt Mt. Manaslu first, where we'll acclimatize and prepare throughout September
and summit at the end of the month. Then we'll take a chopper and hop over to Dhaulagiri BC,
from where we will do a single summit push to the top! Like my expeditions always do, we'll
also be doing a cleanup of old trash on the mountains and at base camps!

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If you just want to try just one peak, then Manaslu is a great introductory 8000er and perfect
experience for attempting Everest in the future. Dhaulagiri is a more remote peak with a more
exposed route and objective dangers so should be attempted by experienced climbers only."
Bookings are still open for the Expedition. There is also the option to do just climbing one peak
instead of both. If you or anyone you know would be interested to join Dawa Steven on thisexpedition, please get in touch with our expeditions managers Kaju Baral and Pemba Sherpa
at14

info@asian-trekking.com.

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Eco Everest Expedition-Nepal (Spring 2019)

As always, since 2008, Asian Trekking will be organizing the Eco Everest Expedition in Spring2019. The team will be led by our Veteran Sirdar Naga Dorje Sherpa who has till date led 11
of our Eco Everest Expeditions. The team will be supported at base camp by the highly
respected Dr. Ben Clark, in his capacity as base camp manager and expedition doctor for Asian
Trekking.
The style of climbing is perfect for individual and small teams who wish to have autonomy overtheir climbing schedules, yet want to benefit from the professional support and mountaineeringexpertise only afforded by large teams. The format of the expedition allows for specialized
services and requests for customization.
Eco Everest gets its name for the environmental work that we have been doing as part of the
expedition since 2008. Some of the feats of the expedition are that it has cleaned up over
18,800Kgs of garbage from Everest. The expedition also requires all climbers on the team to
use toilet bags to bring all human waste off the mountain. For more info on the works of Eco
EverestExpedition

please

visit

this

video

on

the

UIAA

you

tube

channel.

https://youtu.be/dAlNl5xmebI
For more information and for bookings, please get in touch with our expedition's managers
Kaju Baral and Pemba Sherpa at info@asian-trekking.com

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Mt. Makalu Expedition (Spring 2019)17

In spring of 2019, Dawa Steven will be leading an international team to Mt. Makalu (8485m),
The world's fifth highest mountain. The team will climb the classic route, via the Makalu La andNorth West Ridge.

Makalu is considered one of the jewels of Himalayan mountaineering with an extremely
beautiful line with Everest and Lhotse always at your back and Kanchenjunga to the east. The
Mountain is huge and the summit route is particularly long, but fortunately there is almost no
risk of avalanche or rock fall, making it a pure test of the climber's fortitude.
We have a range of options available to suit every type of climber, such as "base camp support
only" and "Service up to the Summit." For more information and for bookings, please get intouch with our expedition's managers Kaju Baral and Pemba Sherpa at info@asiantrekking.com

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Our Efforts and Initiation of Cleaning Popular Mountains:
Mountaineering and Tourism also needs a positive image. A common misconception that
Everest is dirty. Everest was once known as the highest garbage dump in the world. Today, it
is recognized by the climbers as one of the cleanest popular mountain in the world. This ismainly due to greater awareness amongst climbers and operators and efforts of various
expeditions to clean the mountains e.g. Eco Everest Expedition...
Eco Everest Expedition is an eco friendly expedition organized every year since 2008 as aplatform to attract maximum global attention with the main objective to raise awareness about
the impact of climate change and glacier melting in the mountain leading to high risk of Glacial
Lake Outburst Floods affecting the lives and livelihood of the local people and downstream
communities.

Cleaning Campaign "Cash For Trash Program": Under the "Cash for Trash" program of Asian
Trekking, till now more than 18,800 kilos of old garbage from slopes of Mt. Everest for proper
disposal has been brought down and also brought down more than 1500 kilos of human waste
produced by the expedition itself and also six deceased bodies recovered and brought downfrom the slopes of the mountain for a dignified burial and funeral. It uses highly successful
alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers, solar energies for lighting, battery
charges and also encourages other expedition teams to use them.
We are also using the same models and methods on the other popular mountains but picking
up old garbage and bring down from such a height 8000m and above are not easy as picking
up garbage in the streets of Kathmandu. It is very difficult, risky, technical and very costly. Our
Sherpas take all this risk and put their live in jeopardy for the betterment of mountainenvironment. The mountains are for all of us. The efforts of all the nations are required to19

prevent the deterioration of fragile mountain environments, so that the survival of human kindis guaranteed.

Signing off
Finally, it is my pleasure to keep you all up to date as to our activities here in the Himalaya. I
will be sending you another newsletter in a few weeks focusing on the effects of the Nepal
Earthquake in 2015 on the mountain communities, and the rebuilding work since then. I thankyou for your support in the past and look forward to cooperation in the future. If you have any
questions then please don't hesitate to email me.
Best Wishes,

Ang Tshering Sherpa

P.O. Box 3022, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
Phone +977 01 4424249, +977 01 4426947, +977 01 4419265
Fax: +977 01 4411878 | Email: info@asian-trekking.com
www.asian-trekking.com

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British-German 2018 Expedition to Rongdo Valley, Indian Himalaya

First Ascent of Phokto Scheyok (‘Black Pyramid Peak’) 6235m, East
Karakoram 23rd July, 2018
CHRONOLOGY
15th July: left Leh at 08:30 by 4x4 and drove via the highest road in the world, theKhardung La (5359m), to Nubra Valley and the village of Rongdo (3480m). Arrived at
13:00 in strong sunshine and enjoyed the stunning views of the Nubra Valley.
16-18th July: three days’ approach march from Rongdo Village (3480m) to basecamp
at 5375m. Team of three climbers, Liaison Officer (LO), cook and cook’s helper; plus
two horsemen and seven horses and donkeys. Established basecamp (BC) at 5375m,
meaning that we had walked approximately 25km, ascending 1875m in threedays⸺more than twice the recommended 300m a day height gain for optimum
acclimatization. However, the Rongdo Valley is steep, good camping sites are farapart, and the horses had another booking straight after our walk-in. On the eveningof the 18th we had clear weather and beautiful views of the surrounding peaks fromBC.

Figure 1: Basecamp at 5375m early on the 19th July [Photo: Keith Goffin].
19th July: quite heavy snow during the night. Decided on a rest day to acclimatize. LO
showed mild signs of altitude sickness, with heavy breathing and low SaO2 values(but recovered the next day without the need for Diamox tablets). During the day
observed one of our two potential objectives: Point 6064m⸺an unclimbed rock1

buttress directly east of BC. A route had been selected based on one photograph froma previous British expedition but, when in reality, it was clear that the route was adeath-trap, as it was subject to constant rock-fall and overhung by dangerous cornices.
So immediately, our interest switched to the peak that had been dubbed ‘Pyramid
Peak’ by previous expeditions. Pyramid Peak is clearly visible during the second halfof the trek up the Rongdo Valley and had been attempted three times previously. An
Indian Air Force team encountered storms, a Canadian group turned back due to bad
weather on the north-face, and a British team abandoned their attempt on the southwest ridge, due to large cornices and an approaching storm.

Figure 2: Point 6064m which was prone to constant rock-fall [Photo: Keith Goffin].
20th July: decided to have second rest day before climbing higher. Luckily, an
Estonian expedition in the same valley had many porters and we were able to ‘borrow’
two to carry equipment up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) below the south-face ofPyramid Peak. Our Sirdar, Tsewang Gyalson, borrowed a camera to take pictures ofthe south face, so that we could select an ascent route together. The weather on the20th was a mix of snow, intense sun, rain, and fog⸺very similar to previous days. It
appeared that ‘completely changeable’ was the weather pattern at the moment,
meaning that every day would have at least some good spells.

2Figure 3: Phokto Scheyok – ‘Black Pyramid Peak’ 6235m [Photo: Keith Goffin].
21st July: ascended the boulder field above BC to access the glacier and then walked
up this for approximately two hours. Sited our ABC at 5820m on an ice slope above
the glacier. This was an ideal location, as there was a small stream, which we routed
in the ice near to our tent, and the tent was protected by a boulder ridge. The weather
at ABC was clod but there were great views of Rongdo I’s unclimbed north-face (with
its numerous seracs). Ate well and went to bed in our three-man ABC tent at about
20:30, intending to get up at 02:00 the next morning.

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Figure 4: Ralph (left) and Keith at ABC at 5820m [Photo: Tsewang Gyalson].
22nd July: planned as our ascent day. At 02:30 there was very strong wind, snowfall
and poor visibility. We went back to bed and checked the weather at 05:00; finding it
to be better⸺a few centimetres and new snow, cloudy, less wind but about -10ºC. We
decided that the ‘completely changeable’ weather pattern was continuing and decided
to have breakfast and make our attempt.
Leaving ABC at about 05:30, we started climbing the rock ridge, finding the completely
loose rock covered by new snow heavy going for the first hour’s climbing. The southface is up to about 50º and we then roped-up for the traverse of the snow and ice open
gully. The traverse led to the left-hand side ridge of the gulley and again, totally loose
rock. Climbing un-roped we initially climbed the rock but increasingly moved slightly
right of the ridge and ascended the snow and ice slopes with an angle up to about 50º.
The climb was tiring as we were now at about 5900m and the weather was still coldand visibility poor. Fortunately, the wind had now dropped. After several hours mainlyon the snow and ice slopes, we reached easier-angled snow and saw what we thought
was the summit.

4

Figure 5: Climbing the snow and ice of the south face gulley [Photo: Keith Goffin].
We reached the first summit at about 11:30 but saw that the second, more westerly,
summit appeared higher. So, we traversed, un-roped, over easy snow fields to the true
submit, which we reached at 11:51. Tsewang reached the peak first and then a minutelater Keith and Ralph joined him climbing simultaneously. Extensive photographs weretaken (panorama shots in all directions) and Ralph also took a panorama video fromthe submit to submit to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF), as proof of ourascent). Next, we fixed prayer flags to some of the rocks at the summit and Tsewang
built a small cairn. The visibility at the summit was good as the clouds were now moredistant.

5

Figure 6: Prayer flags on the Summit of Phokto Scheyok: Keith, Ralph and Tswang(from left to right) [Photo: Tsewang Gyalson].

6

Figure 7: GPS reading at the summit of 6235m [Photo: Ralph Eberle].
At about 12:00, we started our descent. The south-west ridge that had been attemptedby a previous British expedition looked possible and we made relatively quick progresson the initial slopes. We then roped-up, as the angle became steeper, and on some
sections there were unstable snow slabs. After about an hour, still in cloudy conditions,
we turned down a wide gulley on the south-face, hoping to abseil quickly down to theglacier. Good rocks where we could use slings as anchors were easy to find and wemade three 50m abseils. Unfortunately, at this point, the sun came out and it became
extremely hot and the risk of rock-fall was significant. Therefore, we then traversed
onto the right-hand side (seen from above) of the gulley and the loose rock. There
then followed several hours of exhausting down-climbing on extremely loose blocks infull sunshine. The team was thankful to reach the glacier at about 15:30 and then to
make the easy walk down to the ABC, which we reached at 16:30. We ate noodles
and drank copious amounts of liquid to restore our fluid balance.

7

Figure 8: Ralph abseiling on the difficult descent [Photo: Keith Goffin].
Delighted with our successful ascent, we decided to close the expedition without
attempting further peaks and so Tsewang (full of energy as ever) descended later thatevening to BC, to arrange for donkeys to be sent from Rongdo to collect the
expedition’s equipment. Tsewang dispatched cook’s helper Ambir to run down thevalley to a point where there was telephone coverage, and he could talk to Rongdo
village. Ralph and Keith remained at ABC and enjoyed the views of the glacier andRongdo I for one more evening.
23rd July: packed tent and equipment and descended to BC in two hours. Spent the
day relaxing, sorting equipment, and taking photographs. Surrounding the BC there
were many alpine wild flowers we spent many hours looking at these and the excellent
views. The rock buttresses of our alternative peak P6064m looked as impressive as
ever but rock-fall continued to confirm its ‘death-trap’ status and we had no motivation
to investigate its east-face for a viable route.
24th July: waiting for the Rondgo horseman Tsering Dorjey to arrive with his sevendonkeys. During the day, we observed a major rock-fall from P6064m. Tsering arrived
about 17:00 with his donkeys.
25th July: awoke at 06:30 to pack and clean BC. Extreme care was taken to leave the
BC in a good condition and ensure that no waste was left. Photographs were made of
the area. At 08:30 we began a long and exhausting descent, with numerous river8

crossings and typical Rongdo completely changeable weather. Some of the rivercrossings and the descent were challenging for the donkeys. Finally, we reached ourcampsite next to the shepherds’ huts at Thipthi at about 17:30 in a rainstorm. The team
were already in good spirits but this was helped further when, in response to a requestfrom Keith looking to celebrate his 62nd birthday, Tsering produced a 2-litre plastic
bottle of chang (local beer). This proved very popular and it was quickly emptied by
the whole team. Cook Dan Kumar Rai also baked a birthday cake and so, despite
further heavy rain, the team’s spirits remained robustly high.

Figure 9: The team on the morning of 26th July. From left: Dhan Kumar Rai (Cook);
Tsewang Gyalson (Sirdar); Tsering Dorjey (Horseman); Ambir Man Kulung (Cook’s
helper); Abinav Pandey (Liaison Officer); Ralph Eberle (Climber); local shepherd;
Keith Goffin (Leader) [Photo: Keith Goffin].
26th July: after a short visit to the local gompa, yet another demanding descent day,starting 08:00 and arriving at Rongdo at 14:00. The donkeys arrived later and we built
out last campsite next to the Rongdo river. That evening Tsewang, Ralph and Keith
were invited for butter-tea by horseman Tsering Dorjay and his family, in theirtraditional Ladakhi house.
27th July: the now somewhat tired team made the drive back to Leh and, due to themuch faster ascent and descent, enjoyed more days’ rest and relaxation than
expected before the flight back to Delhi.

TEAM
9Keith Goffin⸺British (Leader and climber)
Tsewang Gyalson⸺Ladakhi (Sirdar)
Ralp Eberle⸺German (Climber)
Abinav Pandey⸺Indian (Liaison Officer)
Dhan Kumar Rai⸺Nepalese (Cook)
Ambir Man Kulung⸺Nepalese (Cook’s helper [and cook’s younger brother])
Tsering Dorjey⸺Ladakhi (Horseman from Rongdo [walk-in and walk-out])
Tsering Morup⸺Ladakhi (Horseman from Leh [walk-in only])

FIRST ASCENT
The ascent was of the south-face of an unclimbed, (officially) unnamed peak in
Eastern Karakoram, Rongdo Valley. The peak had been attempted on three previous
occasions by Indian Air Force, Canadian and British teams. The successful ascent
was via a route up a wide gulley on the south-face on 22nd July, 2018 by Tsewang
Gyalson (Ladakhi), Keith Goffin (British) and Ralph Eberle (German). The peak wasfound to be 6235m high (a GPS check was made) and the coordinates were: N 34º
31.873’’; E 078º 00.492’’. A video of the panorama from the peak was made to verify
that an ascent was made. The LO watching from basecamp also observed the threeclimbers at the summit.

10Figure 10: The route on the south-face seen from the west ridge [Photo: Tsewang
Gyalson].
The peak is clearly visible during the second half of the trek up the Rongdo
Valley and, because of its characteristic form, has been dubbed ‘Pyramid Peak’ byother teams. Checking with our Rongdo horseman, Tsering Dorjey, he said the local
name is Phokto Scheyok, which emphasizes its shade (Scheyok is Ladaki for black)and form (Phokto for pyramid or dome) and it is also the name familiar Tsering’s 94year-old father. Therefore, in keeping with local tradition, it is proposed that the peak
be officially known as Phokto Scheyok and this will be filed at the IMF.

Figure 11: The route on the south-face seen from the glacier [Photo: Tsewang
Gyalson].

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSFirstly, many thanks to the whole team on the mountain, especially Tsewang Gyalson,
for their support and ever-positive attitude. Working with Ladakhi and Nepalese people
is always a pleasure. Rimo Expeditions was excellent at organizing the local logistics
and chasing-up our Mountaineering ‘X’ visas. Finally, Padma Guest House Hotel, withthe excellent help of Bickey and Tsewang, was an ideal choice for our ‘basecamp’ in
Leh and kindly they provided us with prayer flags for the summit.
Written by: Keith Goffin
8th August, 2018
Draft 3 (not yet complete)
11

Audrey Salkeld Mountain Archive
This unique collection represents over 50 years curation and research by the leading mountaineering
author and historian Audrey Salkeld.
Audrey Salkeld published thirteen books about mountains, many articles and columns, wrote scripts
for film and TV and translated eight mountaineering books from German. She curated exhibitions
in venues like the Science Museum, the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society.
She won literary awards for her biography of Lent Riefenstahl, twice won the Grand Prize for
Literature at the Banff Festival, was awarded the American Alpine Club’s Award for Excellence in
Alpine Literature.
Audrey Salkeld books:
Climbing Everest National Geographic 2003
Kilimanjaro National Geographic 2001
Mystery on Everest National Geographic 2000
Last Climb National Geographic 1999
World Mountaineering Mitchell Beazley 1998
A Portrait of Lent Riefenstahl Jonathan Cape/Pimlico 1996
Great Climbs Mitchell Beazley 1994
People in High Places Jonathan Cape/Pimlico 1992
On the Edge of Europe Diadem 1993
Climbing Mount Everest - The Bibliography Sixways 1993
One Step in the Clouds Diadem 1990
The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine Jonathan Cape 1986/1996/1999
Climbing Handbook Sierra Club 1986
Audrey also maintained an extensive personal network with many of the great names inmountaineering and the history of mountains. Her knowledge and private archive were sought bymany other authors, scholars and TV producers to provide in-depth research for their own work. She
has been interviewed many times by the BBC, PBS and other documentary makers.
She was a prodigious correspondent and the archive contains letter between her and many of the
key figures in 20th century mountaineering. She has also drawn together collections of third party
correspondence especially around the pre WW2 Everest expeditions.
The archive is the result of Audrey’s meticulous work as a scholar and researcher. It is the sort ofresource that is unlikely ever to be drawn together again and so many of the protagonists are nolonger alive. Furthermore the curation and organisation of the archive relied on Audrey’s uniqueand in depth knowledge of so many separate topics around the theme of mountains andmountaineering.
The archive runs to nearly 500 separate files comprising:• Correspondence• Research notes• Extensive cuttings library both original clippings and copies• Interview transcripts and notes• Original documents• Photographs - many reproduced at exhibition quality• Other media• Maps1• Ephemera
The jewels in the crown are, as would be expected, the Everest files. They cover all aspects of themountain and its mountaineers from the 19th century until now. It is particularly strong on the
expeditions in the 1920s and 1930s and of course the story of Mallory and Irvine.
Audrey was recognised as the pre-eminent global authority on the Mallory and Irvine narrative. Her
scholarship was based on decades of research and close relationships with the surviving witnesses
from the early Everest expeditions. The archive contains all the fruits of those years of work and it
is unlikely that such a collection will ever be created again.
Audrey’s work, however, was to confined to Everest. She researched and wrote about mountains andmountaineering all around the world. The archive contains important work on Women in
Mountaineering, mountaineering in film, the early history of Alpinism, mountaineering in theAmericas, the Caucasus, and the Himalaya beside Everest. She also researched Chinese
mountaineering, mountaineering and politics with particular reference to Leni Riefenstahl and theuse the Nazis made of mountain conquest and imagery.
'Audrey's work, however, was NOT just confined to Everest" and also to mention that the archive
now requires an institution who will be able to make it available to scholars of Everest history andwho will hopefully be able to add to it and continue the legacy of Audrey Salkeld.
A spreadsheet detailing an overview of the archive is available on request.
Tony Astill contact email astill.tony@gmail.com

2Andes. Perú. Cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash. Jurau A y B.
Escaladas de Andrés, Gómez, Valle y Aranda

Jorge Valle asciende hacia la arista noroeste del Jurau B (del Siulá) de laCordillera de Huayhuash. Foto José David Pérez.

Aclimataciones en las cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash
La expedición a las cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash, compuesta por los españoles
José María (Chemari) Andrés de la Torre, Samuel Gómez Ortega, Jorge Valle
Garcia y José David Pérez Aranda, llegó al Perú el 22 de mayo de 2018 y viajó deLima a Huaraz. Pocos días después, Valle, Pérez y Christine Baschinger(Austria) recorrieron desde Cuartel Huaín hasta el poblado de Llámac, una
variación del trekking clásico de Huayhuash, donde ascendieron hasta los 5350
m del Nevado Diablo Mudo para adaptar sus organismos a la altura.
Después del trekking, el trío hispano-austriaco partió de Huaraz el 1 de junio
hacia la Quebrada Llaca de la Cordillera Blanca y este mismo día ascendió al1nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m) por la vía normal. Valle y Pérez escalaron tres días
después la vía Choose the Life de la cara sur del Nevado Pucaraju (5346 m) delmacizo del Yanamarey. Andrés y Gómez ascendieron desde la Quebrada Ishinca
al Urus (5430 m) por la ruta normal el día 7 de junio. Este mismo día Valle, Pérez
y Baschinger salieron del refugio Ishinca (4357 m) a las 1:00 horas, ascendieron
al Tocllaraju (6036m) por la vía normal y regresaron al refugio a las 13:15 horas.
Andrés y Gómez ascendieron el 8 de junio al Ishinca (5530m) por el este ydescendieron por el oeste.

Cordillera de Huayhuash. Porción de la base cartográfica de las hojas 21-i y 21-j
del IGN del Perú adaptada por Andes Info. Pulse en la imagen para aumentarla.

2

Escaladas en Huayhuash
Terminada la fase de aclimatación, los expedicionarios partieron de Huaraz hacia
la Cordillera de Huayhuash en furgoneta el 12 de junio. Tras siete horas de viaje
llegaron a Queropalca (3831 m), poblado del Departamento de Huánuco.
Al día siguiente caminaron con 11 burros, tres arrieros y un cocinero hasta
Siulácocha (4290 m), laguna junto a la que instalaron el campo base (CB), al pie
noroeste del Nevado Siulá Grande. Aquí decidieron escalar, con estilo ligero ylimpio, sin uso de taladros, el Jurau A y el Jurau B recientemente atribuidos alSiulá en variados documentos y en la nueva cartografía.
Jurau A del Siulá 5617 m o 5640 m
El día 18 de junio, José María (Chemari) Andrés y Samuel Gómez partieron del
CB e instalaron el campo I (ca. 4700 m) bajo la vertiente occidental de los Jurau
del Nevado Siulá Grande. Al día siguiente escalaron en la cara suroeste y luego
en la oeste del Jurau A siete largos de cuerda hasta el primer vivac. Encontraronlas mayores dificultades en el quinto y el sexto largo, por dos corredores de nieve
en malas condiciones que enlentecieron la progresión más de lo previsto.
El día 20 de julio escalaron otros nueve largos hasta el segundo vivac. Este día
empezó con una gran caída de piedras que les obligó a variar algo el recorrido
planeado.

3

Chemari Andrés en el corredor de salida (60°) de la cara oeste del Jurau A
durante el tercer día de escalada. Foto Samuel Gómez.
El día 21 esperaban alcanzar la cima,* pero desistieron, como escribirían luego,«a escasos metros de ésta** por el estado y peligrosidad de la nieve haciendo
imposible su total ascensión». Descendieron entonces al segundo vivac, donde
pasaron su «tercera noche en pared».
El 22 de junio bajaron a la base de la pared y continuaron hasta el campo base.
Dejaron instalados todos los rápeles con seguros convencionales: fisureros, clavos
y anillos de cinta.
La cordada considera que este nuevo recorrido —1000 m, con dificultad 6c, M4+,65°— se caracteriza «por ser una escalada en roca aunque tiene algún tramo en
escalada mixta y nieve».
* La cima principal del Jurau A, que tiene 5617 m en la Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c de 1939 y
5640 m en la edición de 2008, fue alcanzada como aclimatación y observatorio a principios dejunio de 1964 desde el glaciar del Siulá por Werner Lindauer y Helmut Salger. Esta cordada
germana, de la segunda expedición dirigida por Horst Wels a la zona, nombró el pico, «Nevado
Bavaria», y calculó en su cumbre 5600 m. Cuarenta y dos años después, los italianos Silvano
Arrigoni, Lorenzo Festorazzi, Eugenio Galbani y Franco Melesi escalaron la cara noreste delpico y, al creer que era virgen, lo nombraron Siulá Antecima; véase AAJ 1965 y 2007.
** Esta cima, en realidad punta Noreste (ca. 5500 m), dista unos 200 m de la cima Principal(5617 m o 5640 m) del Jurau A en línea recta.

Jurau B del Siulá 5740 m o 5727 m

4

El día 19 de junio, Jorge Valle y David Pérez fueron desde el campo base deSiulácocha hasta el mismo campo I (4700 m) de sus compañeros. Al día siguiente
empezaron a escalar a las 4:30 horas, en el canal situado a la izquierda de laarista noreste del Jurau B, para aprovechar las buenas condiciones de la primera

goulotte, de unos 200 metros de recorrido y dificultad WI 4.
Llegaron debajo de los posibles largos clave del itinerario, pero los evitaron,
optaron por escalar «terreno más evidente con una travesía hacia la izquierda deunos 200 metros». A partir de aquí escalaron sucesivos largos de cuerda.
Imagen anterior. Jorge Valle al principio de la escalada (WI 4) en el Jurau B del Siulá. Foto
José David Pérez. Pulse en la imagen para aumentarla.

Tras más de dieciocho horas de actividad, habían escalado 900 m (de WI4+, M6,75°) «con estilo alpino y sin seguros expansivos». No pudieron alcanzar la cima**
porque «las condiciones de la nieve hacían imposible la progresión y elaseguramiento». Tomaron entonces la decisión de retroceder un largo para
vivaquear en una cueva de hielo. El altímetro de uno de sus relojes marcaba aquí5700 m, medición que consideraron extraña al recordar los 5727 m de la cima en
el mapa que consultaron. Por otra parte, la altura variaba de 5650 m a 5685 m
en el gps del teléfono móvil que llevaban; porque la cobertura era escasa.

5Jorge Valle en el séptimo largo del Jurau B. Foto David Pérez.

El día 21, al salir el sol, empezaron a descender por donde habían ascendido.
«Después de más de 10 rápeles a 70 m de longitud y 210 m de destrepe» llegarona la base de la pared. Descendieron este mismo día hasta el CB «para tener unmayor descanso».
** El Jurau B tiene 5740 m en la Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c de 1939 y 5727 m en la de 2008. Su
antecima, que podría considerarse cima Norte (ca. 5650 m), donde confluyen las aristas
noreste y noroeste, fue alcanzada por Beto Pinto Toledo (Perú), Daniel Araiza Chávez(México) y Florian Burger (Austria) el 13 de julio de 2014. Aunque las publicaciones hayan
registrado un reciente intento italo-suizo y dos primeras ascensiones en el Jurau B del Siulá,
su verdadera cumbre (cima Principal, 5740 o 5727 m) permanece virgen. Esto suscita una
curiosa incongruencia derivada del doble significado de «primera ascensión»: el mismo
término, aplicado a `la primera vez que se alcanza una cima´, también refiere a `una nueva
ruta´ o `apertura de una ruta o vía´.
Comunicaciones personales (c.p.) y agradecimientos●

José David Pérez Aranda, Horst Wels (RIP) a través de Hermann Huber, Antonio (Toño)

Rodríguez Verdugo, Servei Gral. d'Informació de Muntanya.
Fuentes●

The American Alpine Journal. USA: American Alpine Club, en particular 1965, 2007, 2015.

Cartografía●

Cordillera Huayhuash (Perú), Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c 1:50.000. Deutschen undÖsterreichischen Alpenvereins ed. 1939 y Österreichischer Alpenverein ed. 2008.
●

Hojas 21-i Chiquián y 21-j Yanahuanca 1:100.000. Instituto Geográfico Nacional del Perú

1970.
●

GAMACHE, Martin, NORRIS, Tim et.al. Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru. 1:65.000. Boston(MA): Alpine Mapping Guild, 2002.
●

GAMACHE, Martin. Cordillera Huayhuash. 1:50,000 Topographic Map. USA: Peaks &Places Publishing, 2004.

6

Desde arriba, de izquierda a derecha. Línea de la escalada de Chemari Andrés ySamuel Gómez en el Jurau A (del Siulá) de la Cordillera de Huayhuash. Andrés
en el largo 16 (6a+) y a la derecha en el largo 17 (6a) durante el tercer día deescalada. Andrés (abajo) en uno de los primeros rápeles. Pulse en cada imagen
para aumentarla.

7

Desde arriba, de izquierda a derecha. Jorge Valle en el segundo largo de laescalada al Jurau B. A la derecha, Valle rapela en el quinto largo. El Nevado
Siulá Grande (izquierda) con sus Jurau B (centro) y Jurau A (derecha) detrás deValle y Pérez. Línea de la escalada de Valle y Pérez en el Jurau B. Pulse en cadaimagen para aumentarla.

8Andes. Perú. Cordilleras Blanca y Huayhuash. Jurau A y B.
Asociación ilógica de nombres

La Cordillera de Huayhuash
Como se indicó en este blog, la cordillera de Huayhuash de los Andes del Perú es famosa por
su belleza, sus escarpadas montañas y la sensación de aislamiento que produce a quien lavisita. No obsta su cercanía con la ciudad de Chiquián, distante 349 km de Lima y 111 km de
Huaraz. Pulse en la imagen para aumentarla.
Aun con el fácil acceso actual a la información, esta cadena montañosa de 30 km de larga,
situada en los límites departamentales de Lima, Ancash y Huánuco, tiene cimas vírgenes
casi desconocidas, como la del nombrado con raro juicio Jurau B, y picos como el Jurau A
llamado «Siulá Antecima» al imaginarlo nunca ascendido.
En cualquier caso, los nombres Jurau A y B parecen ilógicos, inadecuados y quizá
inaceptables al otorgarlos a tales cimas que, como indicamos a continuación, pertenecen al
Nevado Siulá en vez de al propio grupo de los Nevados Jurau.

1Vertiente oriental de los nevados Siulá y Yerupajá de la Cordillera de Huayhuash,
con los señalados ilógicamente Jurau A y B en la documentación moderna. Foto
Koky Castañeda.

Los nevados Jurau
César Morales Arnao explica, en AAJ 1966, que jurau «es una hierba de hojas
finas con una flor morada. Esta hierba crece profusamente en las laderas másbajas de esta montaña de Huayhuash.»Los «Nevados Jurau» de Huayhuash están señalados en la carta de la Sociedad
Alpina Alemana de 1939, abarcan siete cimas superiores a los 5300 m, más una
menor, extendidas entre las registradas en la nueva cartografía con los nombres
Trapecio (5653 m), al sur, y Carnicero (5980 m) al norte. La arista noreste de esteúltimo, llamado hoy «Jurau C o Nevado Carnicero», se alarga hacia el noreste con
dos cimas —una próxima de 5594 m (en la carta de 2008) y otra de ca. 5350 m—
más otra menor de 5215 m en el extremo noreste indicada en la edición
cartográfica de 1939.
2

Estas últimas cimas (5350 m y 5594 m) debieran ser las verdaderas A y B según
los límites de los Nevados Jurau en la cartografía. La arista oeste del Carnicero
termina en su collado con el Nevado Sarapo, cuya arista norte lleva al Siulá Chico,cuya arista noreste conecta con el Siulá Grande, de cuya cumbre baja la arista
oeste que luego tuerce hacia el nornoreste donde están sus picos denominados
Jurau B y A con raro sentido de la lógica.
Pulse en la imagen para aumentarla. Los nombres y cifras en color negro son originales de lacarta del ÖAV 2008. La línea de color azul añil señala la divisoria del grupo de cimas delNevado Jurau, con los posibles auténticos Jurau B y A indicados con cifras rojas (5594 y ca.
5350 m) en la arista noreste del Carnicero.

El origen de la enumeración inadecuada
Las enumeraciones alfabéticas de los «Nevados Jurau» son posteriores a la
publicación de la carta oficial peruana de 1969-1970. Las famosas expediciones
austroalemanas, las mejores documentadas sobre los nevados de Huayhuash, noconsideraron Jurau las actuales cimas A y B que comparten sus glaciares
occidentales con el oriental del Siulá. De hecho, la expedición de Wels nombró«Nevado Bavaria» en 1964 el actual Jurau A.* Este último incluso queda fuera
de los «Siete Colmillos» indicados en aquella primera carta. ¿Quién consideró
luego que esas dos cimas formaban parte de los Jurau?

3Vertiente occidental de los ilógicos Jurau desde el glaciar oriental del Siulá
Grande. La línea azul indica la ascensión de Helmut Salger y Werner Lindauer
en junio de 1964 a la cumbre del Jurau A. La línea roja señala el ascenso en julio
2014 de Beto Pinto, Daniel Araiza y Florian Burger hasta cerca de la cumbre delJurau B. Foto Koky Castañeda.

4

La expedición británica de 1988, que intentó escalar la cara oeste del Siulá Chico(6265 m), atribuyó la letra /D/ a la cumbre o cima principal (5674 m) del Nevado
Jurau cuando Brian Barker and Jonathan Preston escalaron la cara oeste por
una nueva ruta.
Una concienzuda indagación retrospectiva desde esa fecha tal vez proporcioneuna respuesta más satisfactoria, pues, aunque esa atribución /D/ sea indicio, norevela el origen de las enumeraciones alfabéticas que incluyen en el Nevado Siulá
dos cimas de los Nevados Jurau. Queda pendiente, entonces, una gestión
documental exhaustiva.
Entretanto, la pretensión de cambiar los divulgados nombres Jurau A y Jurau B
de las cimas de la arista oeste-nornoroeste del Siulá Grande probablementeañadiría confusiones, además de complejidad, en las futuras búsquedas deinformación sobre ascensiones en la Cordillera de Huayhuash.
Notas* La cima principal del actual Jurau A, que tiene 5617 m en la Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c de1939 y 5640 m en la edición de 2008, fue alcanzada como aclimatación y observatorio a
principios de junio de 1964 desde el glaciar del Siulá por Werner Lindauer y Helmut Salger.
Esta cordada germana, de la segunda expedición dirigida por Horst Wels a la zona, nombró
el pico, «Nevado Bavaria», y calculó en su cumbre 5600 m. Cuarenta y dos años después, lositalianos Silvano Arrigoni, Lorenzo Festorazzi, Eugenio Galbani y Franco Melesi laalcanzaron por la cara noreste y, al creer que era virgen, la nombraron Siulá Antecima; véase
AAJ 1965 y 2007.
** El Jurau B tiene 5740 m en la Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c de 1939 y 5727 m en la de 2008. Su
antecima, que podría considerarse cima Norte (ca. 5650 m), donde confluyen las aristas NE
y NO, fue alcanzada por Beto Pinto Toledo (Perú), Daniel Araiza Chávez (México) y Florian
Burger (Austria) el 13 de julio de 2014.
Comunicaciones personales (c.p.) y agradecimientos●

Horst Wels (RIP), Hermann Huber, Werner Beer —director de la Sección Cartográfica delÖsterreichischer Alpenverein—, Koky Castañeda, Servei Gral. d'Informació de Muntanya

5

Fuentes de referencia● The Alpine Journal● The American Alpine Journal

Cartografía● Cordillera Huayhuash (Perú), Alpenvereinskarte 0/3c DÖAV 1939 y ÖAV 2008.
● Hoja 21-j Yanahuanca, Instituto Nacional Geográfico del Perú, 1970.

6