ASIAN ALPINE E–NEWS
Issue No.37, September 2018

CONTENTS
Guidebook “Mountaineering and ski mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan”
Page 2 ~ 48
Annotation
New edition of the Guidebook “Mountaineering & ski mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan” (Fist
edition was named “Mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan”) is continued publishing by Asian Alpine
E-News. Part of the Guidebook already was published in issues No. 23&30 of the AAEN. The otherarticles (Chapters) will follow as far as ready. Part of articles are doing together with co-authors.

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Guidebook “Mountaineering and ski mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan”
Annotation
New edition of the Guidebook “Mountaineering & ski mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan”(Fist edition was named “Mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan”) is continued publishing by Asian
Alpine E-News. Part of the Guidebook already was published in issues No. 23&30 of the AAEN.
The other articles (Chapters) will follow as far as ready. Part of articles are doing together withco-authors.
The guide provides an overview and brief description (characteristics of areas, location,seasons, climate, climbing history, camps and bases, entrances and approaches, climbing
opportunities) as well - developed mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan, and rarely visited andpromising areas. There are described opportunities and recommendations on the organization,
logistics of mountaineering expeditions, rescue operations, communications and formalities. The
guide will be useful for those who are going to climb to Kyrgyzstan or choose new areas of theworld for climbing.
Author Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guide, President of the Kyrgyz
Mountain guides Association and the Kyrgyz Alpine Club, engaged in Mountaineering for morethan 50 years. He has repeatedly visited and climbed all areas described by him.
Author will be very thanks to new climbing info for the described areas (Kyrgyz Alpine
Club alpclub-kg@mail.ru).
CONTENT of the Guidebook
Introduction
Part I. Short geographical info of Kyrgyz Mountains. By Vladimir Komissarov (AAEN #30)*
Part II. Most interesting mountaineering and ski mountaineering areas of Kyrgyzstan (ispublishing)Part III Logistics for the mountaineering and ski mountaineering activity in Kyrgyzstan. By
Vladimir Komissarov (AAEN #30)*
Part IV. Rescue in Kyrgyz Mountains, insurance, emergency contacts. By Vladimir Komissarov(AAEN #30)*
Detailed content of the Part II.
Mountaineering
Tien-Shan
Chapter 1. The Central Tien-San.
Chapter 2. Terskey Range
Chapter 3. Kyrgyz Range
3.1. Climbing routes of Aksay Glacier area (AAEN #23)*
Chapter 4. Western Kokshal Range
Chapter 5. Akshyrak Range
Chapter 6. Kuilu Range. By Vladimir Komissarov, Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams (AAEN #23)*
Chapter 7. Borkoldoy Range
Chapter 8. At-Bashinsky Range By Vladimir Komissarov, Pat Littlejohn, Adrian Nelhams (AAEN#30)*
Chapter 9. Jetim and Jetimbel ranges
Chapter 10. Torugart Range
Pamir
Chapter 13. Zaalaisky Range. By Vladimir Komissarov, Adrian Nelhams*
13.1.1. Lenin Peak description, by Vladimir Komissarov (AAEN #23)*
Chapter 14. Turkestansky Range
Chaprer 15. Alaisky Range
Ski Mountaineering
Chapter 16. Ranges Suek, Akshiirak, Djetym-Bel and Djetym.
Chapter 17. East part of Terskey Range
Chapter 18. Atbashy and Naryntoo ranges
Chapter 20. Suusamyr Valley.
Chapter 21. Mounts in the vicinity of Bishkek city1

* by blue color mentioned published parts and chapters
Chapter 13. Zaalaisky Range
Authors: Vladimir Komissarov, PhD & Adrian Nelhams
Redaction of English version by Stephen Tailor, PhD
Content of Chapter 13 Zaalaisky Range
13.1. Achiktash Valley
13.1.1. Lenin Peak 7134
13.1.2. Neighboring to Lenin Peak mounts
13.2. Korzhenevsky Glacier.
13.3. East of Kyzart pass
13.4. To West of Lenin Peak
About authors
The Range is located in the South-West part of Kyrgyzstan on the border of Tajikistan and
China. It is part of the northern Pamir, which is called the Pamiro-Alay. The Zaalaisky Range
administratively refers to the Chon-Alay and Alay districts of the Osh oblast of Kyrgyzstan. The
length of the Range is more than 200 km in an east-west direction. The border with Tajikistan and
China extends along the axial watershed part of the Range.

Pic 13-1. Zaalasky Range. Mountaineering areas: 1) Lenin Peak and Achiktash valley, 2) Korjenevsky Glacier; 3)
Eastern part of the Range situated in the East of Kyzart Pass and, 4) Western part of the Range located to the West
direction from Achiktash Gorge.

The Zaalasky Range is one of the most famous climbing areas in the world because Lenin Peak(7134m) is located here. Lenin Peak is one of the most accessible and technically easy peaks inthe world with an altitude of more than 7000m. However, despite the easy access, this region islargely unexplored in general, with the exception of the Lenin Peak area. This is the one summit
which is more than 7000m in this region, a further 57 summits are more than 6000 in height andthere are many peaks in the range of 4000-6000m, with most of them still unclimbed (virgin). The
paraxial (central axis) part of the Range consist of metamorphic rocks, which changes tosediments in the lateral part of the Range such as limestone, dolomites, sandstones andconglomerates. The northern slopes of the Range, which face Kyrgyzstan, are ice covered.
Glaciers flow from the tops and ridges widely covering the lower slopes. There are many snowice climbing routes in the Range. The best season for climbing is the period from July to Octoberwhen the weather is the most stable. The climate of the Zaalasky Range is considerably less2

harsh than that of the Tien-Shan. The mid-temperature in the Achiktash base camp (located at
an altitude of 3600m) in the period of July - August is +10°С. Precipitation is greatest in the period
from April to early June; the least rainfall being in August - September. We can divide the range
into four parts according to the level of exploration, landscape features and accessibility. The
central part of the range is the place of two regions location: 1) Lenin Peak and Achiktash Valley;2) Korzhenevskiy Glacier; the next is 3) the eastern part of the range located to the east direction
from Kyzart Pass and 4) western part of the range located to the west direction from Achiktash
Gorge. The approach from the Osh City (which has an international airport) to the Alay Valley
goes along high quality asphalted highway through the Taldyk Pass (3615m) up to Sarytash
Village. The distance is 180 km takes about 3 hours. From here the various approaches to thedifferent regions of the range are accessed.
The exploration of the Zaalasky Range started in the beginning of 19th century with various
Pamir expeditions from the Russian Empire led by Fedchenko, Mushketov, Korzhenevsky, andSevercev and these were continued into the first half of 20th century by Soviet expeditions. Lenin
Peak was discovered in 1871 by the Fedchenko expedition and called Kaufman Peak (who was
Governor General of Turkestan Region of Russian Empire at that time). Climbers of a RussianGerman-Austrian expedition, Karl Wien, Eugene Allwein and Erwin Schneider made the first
ascent in 1928 and renamed the summit Lenin Peak. Exploration of climbing in the regioncommenced then and was initially concentrated around Lenin Peak and the Korzhenevsky glacier.
In 2000, alpinists started a more intensive exploration of the eastern part of the area from the
Kyzart Pass eastwards. As of 2018, the western part of the region remains unexplored by climbers.
This is reflected in the list of first ascents below. However, it should be noted that mountain tourists
commenced an intensive exploration of this region after 2000 using long trekking tours throughmountain passes, although these itineraries avoid the more technically difficult summits.
Expeditions’ supply.
There are only a few tour companies operating in Kyrgyzstan (mentioned in AAE-N #30,
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no30.pdf ), which can provide thenecessary services and support for independent expeditions to the Zaalasky Range. In theimmediate area of Lenin Peak there are six tour companies operating who can provide all theneeded services.
Transport. Please take into consideration that a cross country (off-road) vehicle is required
to access the gorges of the Range, while there is an asphalted highway to Sarytash Village andfurther along to the Range to the east and to the west, you can only reach the base camps ofAchiktash Valley by this road. There is no possibility to hire a cross country vehicle in the Alay
valley and there is no such type of transport available in Osh. Consequently, it is necessary tohire this type of the vehicle in Bishkek.
Horses. It is not a problem to arrange horses for an expedition; these are widely available
in the Alay villages through the CBT Association (http://cbtkyrgyzstan.kg/ ). Also, there is in
Achiktash Valley possivle to find horses from local nomads for deliver of load or riding.
Food. Basic foodstuffs such as bread, sugar, flour, cereals and fresh meat can bepurchased in the Alay Valley villages. However, the range of the food here is limited and not
sufficient to support an expedition and therefore it is recommended that, as all the tour operators
operating in the Alay region do, the majority of foodstuffs be purchased in Osh.
Expedition Staff. Cooks to work up to the altitude of 4000m, low level porters, local guides
and horsemen for trekking can be hired in Alay Valley through the CBT Association. Other more
specialized staff such as high mountain guides, alpinism instructors, high altitude porters andcooks etc. to work at the altitude more than 4000m, can be hired through the local tour operators
Expedition equipment. This specialized sort of equipment – tents (base camp and highaltitude), mobile kitchens, kitchen equipment, electric supply, USB-stations, satellite phones,
replacing missing climbing equipment (for instance, by reason of lost baggage) – can be rented
from the tour operators mentioned above.
Communication. The mobile phone network of most of the Kyrgyz providers is available
almost everywhere. However, for some remoter parts of the Range, a connection is only possible
via a satellite phone.

3Formalities. All climbing areas of the Zaalay Range are located in the border zone andconsequently a border permit is required. It is recommended that passport registration (if required)be arranged in one of the big cities upon arrival (e.g. Bishkek or Osh). Passport registration is
also possible to arrange through tour operators in Darautkurgan the capital village of the ChonAlay district.
13.1. Achiktash Gorge
The Achiktash Gorge is one of the most famous climbing areas in the world. It is here that,what is widely considered to be the most technically easy summits over an altitude of 7000m,
Lenin Peak (7134 m) is located.

Piс 13-2. Lenin Peak massive

This area is located on the northern slopes of the Zaalay Range, on the Tajik border, 32 km
to the south of Kashkasu Village. The area is widely snow-covered, with the slopes andmountaintops covered with ice and snow. The base altitude is in excess of 3000m. Typically, theroutes here are on snow and ice and are not technically difficult. It provides an opportunity toundertake a high altitude ascent without requiring a high level of technical climbing skills.
The road to the Achiktash base camp from Sary-Tash Village by vehicle goes along an
excellent asphalt road up to Kashkasu Village (65 km) and then across the Kyzylsuu River bridge
and along a 32 km dirt road up to the location of the Lenin Peak base camps.
The Lenin Peak massive is located between the Razdelny Pass (altitude of 6080m) fromthe west and the Krylenko Pass (altitude of 5820m) from the east. Overall, the length of themassive from pass to pass is some 9.5 km, and the length from the western shoulder of thesummit (6442m) to the eastern shoulder (6601m) is 6.5 km. The northern slopes of the massive
are ice covered and these flow down to form the Lenin Glacier in the Gorge.
There are now 19 itineraries to the summit of Lenin Peak; 10 routes go from the northernside (Kyrgyzstan) (Pic. 13-5) and 9 of them go from the southern side (Tajikistan). The safest andmost popular itinerary is the route from the north, going from Achik-Tash through the Razdelnaya
Summit (6148m).
The summit was first described in 1871 by the Russian geographer and traveler A.P.
Fedchenko, who called the summit Peak Kaufman after the local governor-general of that time.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkestan). In 1928, the first ascent to the summit was done by aPamir Russian-German expedition, the climbers being the German pair of Karl Wien and Eugene
Allwein and the Austrian alpinist Erwin Schneider. They renamed the summit Lenin Peak.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladimir_Lenin ). Two further ascents to the summit were done
before the Second World War. A new stage of exploration of the area started after the Second
World War and went through until the end of the 1960s, with the latter part of this era being marked
with organization of numerous mass high altitude ascents. Mass international jubilee
mountaineering competitions took place in 1967 and these were unprecedented for a summit ofsuch an altitude. Competitions were dedicated to 50th anniversary of Soviet revolution, when 301
persons, including 60 climbers from other countries, reached the summit via a number of different4routes (4 routes were climbed first time). More mass ascents to commemorate the 100th
anniversary of the birth of Vladimir Lenin took place in 1970. Regular ascents to the summit
started in 1972 when the first Soviet Union International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) wasarranged in Achiktash. This camp received tourists from across the world.

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Pic 13-3. Orographic map of Achiktash Gorge and Lenin Peak (7134m)

Today, hundreds of mountaineering tourists from the different parts of the planet come tothe area to attempt an ascent of Lenin Peak, to undertake trekking or to just enjoy the high6

mountains. Six Kyrgyz travel companies set up their own base camps to provide services andsupport for climbing and trekking. In addition, the local government administration together with
the Kyrgyz Alpine Club (www.kac.centralasia.kg) and Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association(http://mguide.in.kg/) arrange annual ethnic-folklore festivals for local people and foreign climbers.
A photo report of one of these festivals, which took place on August 5, 2018 and was dedicatedto 90th anniversary of first ascent to Lenin Peak, can be seen below in Annexe 2.

Pic. 13-4. One of advance base camps (ABC), 4200m.

Pic. 13-5. Lenin Peak routes from the North. 1. Kovalev V.(1954) classic route through Razdelnaya; 2. Arkin J. (1960)
N direct line; 3. Chernukha K. (1934), by rib of Lipkin rocks; 4. Ratsek V. (1950) through Lipkin rock to E ridge; 5.
Skurlatov J. (1967), along the Northern rib; 6. Scott D. (1974), from the East of Lenin Glacier through NE rib and N rib(English route); 7. Benua R. (1974), from the East of Lenin Glacier via E culuar; 8. Cheredova V. (1960), along E ridgefrom Krylenko Pass; 9. Abalakov V. (1960), traverse from W to E; 10. Kashafutdinov V. (1991), traverse from E to W.

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There are a number of summits below 7000m in the area of Lenin Peak, but the summits
are largely neglected because of their comparatively lower altitude.
13.1.1. Lenin Peak 7134. Description of ascent to Lenin Peak along the classical route
through the summit Razdelnaya.
This part of Chapter 13 from the Guidebook was published in the magazine Asian Alpine ENews #23, 2018 (http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no23.pdf).
13.1.2. Neighboring mountains to Lenin Peak.
There is a possibility to climb many other summits, other than Lenin Peak in this area. Thesepeaks are recommended for both acclimatization purposes as well as for individual ascent. As
soon as you arrive in Achiktash you can go from the base camp to Petrovskogo Peak (4830m) as
the first stage of acclimatization (Pic. 13-6). There is also an opportunity as part of the first stageof an acclimatization programme to do ascents of the peaks nearest to ABC such as Domashniy(4700m), Yuhina and 30th Anniversary of Uzbekistan.

Pic. 13-6. Petrovskogo Peak, photo from Achiktash BC.

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Pic. 13-7. Yuhina and Domashniy peaks

There are a number of other summits located close to ABC (Pics. 13-_, 13-_, 13-_ ) in addition to
the mountains mentioned above. As no information has been uncovered about any prior ascentsof these summits they are considered to be virgin peaks.

Pic. 13-8. Peak 5342

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Pic. 13-9. Peak 4803 (right)

The standard climbing programme includes an ascent to the summit of Razdelnaya (6148m),
which is located on the way to the top of Lenin Peak, during the second acclimatization process.
This has a certain logic: it enables an exploration of the ascent route and also facilitates the
carrying of the necessary equipment and supplies required for the summit bid during theacclimatization programme. Alternatively, there is the possibility to complete the second phase of
acclimatization by undertaking an ascent of XIX Parts’ezda Peak, 5920m (Pics.13-11 – 13-17)
and staying for one night on the top, as is typically done when climbing Razdelnaya Peak.

Pic. 13-10. Peak 4695 (left)

10Pic. 13-11. 19-th Parts’ezda KPSS Peak.

Pic. 13-12. NW ridge of XIX Parts’ezda Peak.

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Pic. 13-13. W wall of XIX Parts’ezda Peak.

Pic. 13-14. Ridge before the top of XIX Parts’ezda Peak.

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Pic. 13-15. Camp on the top of XIX Parts’ezda Peak.

Pic. 13-16. S ridge of XIX Parts’ezda Peak. Lenin and Dzerzhinskogo peaks are located from the right side.

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In addition to the climbing opportunities described above, one day ascents from the easternside of Achiktash Gorge, where there are some virgin peaks in excess of 4000m, are also possible toarrange (Pic. 13-17).

Pic. 13-17. Virgin peaks of E side of Achiktash Valley, Peak of 900th anniversary of Minsk city is located in the centre of thepicture.

13.2. Korzhenevski Glacier area.
The area of covering the Korzhenevsky Glacier is located from the west of the Kyzart Pass
and from the east of Achiktash Gorge (Pic. 13-19).

Pic. 13-18. Korzhenevsky Glacier area in Zaalay Range.

This area’s exploration started in the 1960s and was mainly undertaken by mountain tourists/trekkers
rather than by alpinists. Mountain tours were undertaken not only through the passes, but also acrossthe tops of the main ranges of the area where access is possible via simple snow routes. One of firstclimbers were alpinists of the Osh oblast, under the direction of V. Freifeld, arranged a high altitude
climbing expedition in this part of the Zaalay Range in 1963. They climbed to the highest summits of
the area: Kyzyl-Agyn Peak (6679m) and Korzhenevsky Peak (6005m); and did the traverse of VMF(5842m); Korzhenevsky, Belecky (6075m) and Simanovicha (5798) peaks. The area was frequently
visited by Russian mountain tourists in the 2000s. They climbed to most of the summits of thewatershed parts of the Zaalaysky and Ledyanoy Mys ranges in addition to crossing the passes. Manyof the summits located on the spurs of these ridges are still virgin.

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Pic. 13-19. Korzhenevsky Glacier area map.

A Cambridge University expedition, led by James Lasseter, climbed several summits in1999 – Nazarov Peak (5015) from the north, the southern part of peak 5525m, the southernsummit (5845) of XIX Prts’ezd Peak, Korzhenevsky Peak (6008m) and Peak 6624 located on thesouthern part of the Zaalay Range.
Two Slovak climbers (Pala and Chadick) arranged a ski mountaineering expedition in 2005 to
several summits situated in the Dzhanaidartaka Valley and Nazarov Glacier. Exploratory ascentswere arranged to Todo Peak too.
Approach to the area of Korzhenevsky Glacier goes from Bordoba Village on the east side. Thiscan be reached by the highway connecting Sarytash Village and the Kyzart Pass. The approach tothe summits of northern slope of Ledyanoy Mys Range is accessible from Sarymogol Village via thebridge on the Kyzylsuu River or from the side of the Sarytash – Kyzart highway by cross country
vehicle.
13.3. East of the Kyzart Pass.
This part of Zaalay Range experienced little attention before 1990. This area was not
popular in Soviet time because it was closed as part of the Chinese border zone and because of
its proximity to the neighboring areas of Lenin Peak (7134m) and Kommunism Peak (7495m).
The area became more attractive for climbers after the “restructuring” and collapse of the Soviet
Union in 1991. A British expedition attempted to climb Kurumdy Peak during 40 days in 1999, but
was unsuccessful. A Scottish expedition led by Paul Digan climbed 10 summits from the basinof the Kurumdy Glacier in 1999: Anatoli Peak (4985m); 4892m Peak; Twig Peak (4852m); Svyatoi
Peak (Siyayuschi) 4789m; Molly Peak (4800m) among others. Zarya Vostoka Peak (6349) was
climbed by a group of tourists under the leadership of Alexander Novik (Moscow) in 2000. Russian
and Uzbek expeditions made unsuccessful attempts to climb Kurumdy Peak in 2004. This highest
point of the eastern part of the Zaalay Range was successfully climbed in 2005 by Kyrgyz climbers
led by A. Gubaev. A team of Spanish climbers in 2007 completed ascents of Ekishak Peak
(5155m); Golova Orla Peak (5441m); 4789 Peak; Siyayuschi and Molly Peaks located in theupper part of the Kyzylsu Glacier. An expedition of Moscow based climbers in 2008 led by A.
Lebedev and D. Shapovalov did an ascent of Gubaev Peak (5368m) located in the northern side15

of the Ridge, several kilometers from Zarya Vostoka Peak. Also at 2008, a Russian team headed
by Alexander Kelin climbed Belyi Peak (5021m) in the Nura Valley and did a traverse of peaks
5505 and 5917 meters. The first ascent of Otchailo Peak was done in September 2009 bymembers of the Hanover Alpine Club.

Pic. 13-20. Overview map of Eastern Zaalay Range.

Pic. 13-21. East part of Zaalay Range, massive Kurumdy Peak. Photo Jason Sheldrake.

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Pic. 13-22. Maasive of Kurumdy Peak.

Pic. 13-22. Zaria Vostoka Peak, 6349m.

West part of that area - the Kecheksuu Valley (Pic.13-_) is located to the east of the Kyzart
pass. A Russian expedition was undertaken here in July 2010 led by Yuri Koshelenko. They
achieved two ascents on the left and right Kichkesu glaciers, to Meretskogo (4800m) and In-Yan
Peaks (4714m or 4939m). A group led by Lebedev in 2013 again crossed the Nura and Kecheksu
valleys climbing Peak 5985, located from the east side of Zarya Vostoka Peak. The altitude of thepeak was later found to be 6022m.

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Pic. 13-23. Orographical map of Kecheksu River basin

Pic. 13-24. Pogranichnik Peak, SE side.

A French-Russian team of Henry Bizot and his Russian guide Nicolay climbed Veronica and Anna
Peak (5123m) in 2014, which are located to the south of Pogranichnik Peak (5437m) in the left
Kichkesu Glacier basin. In 2015 the German expedition of Markus Gshvendt achieved a fulltraverse of the summits from Kurumdy Vostochny Peak (Catty Peak, 6259m) to Kurumdy
Zapadnyi (Chorku Peak, 6283m). The first expedition to the area of Pogranichnik Glasier and left

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Kecheksu Valley was organized in 2015 by the International School of Mountaineering (ISM),
which achieved 11 first ascents. The second ISM expedition to the neighboring gorges located tothe east from Kicheksu Gorge and Kurumdu River was in 2016. ISM climber have done 13 first
ascents. Ireland Alpine club expedition to Kichkesu Gorge were done at 2016 too. A group fromthe Saint-Petersburg club Prayogi led by I.A. Moshnikov did the first ascent in the area ofPogranichnik Glacier to Prai Peak (5128m) in July 2018. All summits with an altitude of more than
6000m have now been climbed, but many 4000m peaks are still awaiting a first ascent.
The approach to the western part of this area is straightforward. The floodplains of the
Kichkesu, Kurumdy and Kashkasuu rivers area are accessible by cross country vehicles via thehighway connecting the Kyzart pass and Sarytash Village or by the highway connecting the
Irkeshtam border post and Sarytash Village along the chukurs (sloping terrain covered with grass).
The road goes almost up to basin of the glaciers of the rivers where there are comfortable places
to set up a base camps and where it is possible, within a few hours of hiking, to access ABCs andclimbing areas.

Pic. 13-25. Kichkesu Gl. left.

Pic. 13-26. Kichkesu River crossing.

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Pic. 13-27. Cross country vehicle – transport for Zaalay expeditions. Driving along bottom of Kichkesu River to BC point.

Pic. 13-28. Herd of yaks on Kashkasu upper reache River. East Zaalay.

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Pic. 13-29. Orographical scheme of Kurumdy and Eastern Kyzylsuu Rivers basins.

Approaches to the area of the Kyzylsu Glacier (Pic. 13-_) where the highest point of this part ofZaalay Range is located are more difficult. An approach can be made by cross country vehicle fromthe 30th kilometre mark of the Sarytash – Irkeshtam road along the chukurs up to the Transportny
Pass. This place is appropriate for a BC. A further walking approach goes through the Transportny
Pass in the direction of Kyzylsu East River up to the climbing area. Walking time is 6-10 hours. There
are two other options for approach to the area of Nura Glacier (Pic. 13-_)21

Pic. 13-30. Orographical scheme of Nura River basin

First option. This goes through the Transportny Pass, eastern Kyzylsuu Glacier and thenthrough the pass which connects Zarya Vostoka Peak and the northern spur of the Zaalay Range tothe western part of the Nura Nlacier and then to the climbing area. This approach from the Transportny
Pass to western Nura takes two days.
Second option. Starting at the Sarytash – Irkeshtam highway to the Nura River and then bycross country vehicle along the right bank floodplain of Nura River to the suspension bridge throughNura River (Pics. 13-_ и 13-_). There is a summer village of shepherds in this place on the right bankof the River and horses are available to hire here. Horses can carry up to the Nura Glacier moraine.
A walking only approach is possible to the area of eastern part of the Nura Glacier. The walking timefrom Sarytash Village to the suspension bridge at Nura River is one day. It takes a further 1-2 daysby foot to reach the climbing area.

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Pic. 13-31. Transportny pass, view from 4309 peak.

Pic. 13-32. Way along high-water bed Nura.

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Pic. 13-33. Bridge across Nura River.

Pic. 13 34. East outermost part (Nura) of Zaalay Range.

Pic. 13-35. In frant is N virgine branch of Zaalay Range.

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Pic. 13-36. Paradise of East part of Zaalay Range.

Pic. 13-37. Nura River canion.

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Pic. 13-38. Horse milk at summer Nura village.

Pic. 13-39. Cowboy of summer Nura village.

13.4. To West of Lenin Peak
The Zaalay Range continues more than 100 km to the west from Achik-Tash gorge anddrops from an altitude of 6717m to 4000m. The highest point of the western part of the range isDzerzhinsky (6717m) which is located in the neighboring gorge (Kaman) to Lenin Peak.

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Pic. 13-40. Dzerjinskogo Peak (6717), view from W ridge of Lenin Peak. Photo Pasha Chechia.

It is also possible to climb to Lenin Peak via the Razdelnaya summit from this gorge. There are a
lot of expeditions and climbing base camps (with climbers from across the world) in Achik-Tashin summer time, but there are few climbers to Lenin Peak from the Kamansu side. From here, theclimbing time is the same, the route is safer and it is possible to reach base camp by car.
Dzerzhinsky Peak is easily climbed from the Kaman gorge along the northern snow-ice slopes
through the Dzerzhinsky pass (5700m) and then along the snow ridge up to the summit.

Pic. 13-41. West part of Zaalay Range

A series of gorges (Kungyr-suu, Ming-Djar-Sinar-Djar, Achyk-Suu, Këk-Kiik и Altyn-Daria
gorges) stretch further to the west from Kaman gorge, here there are a lot of virgin peaks at analtitude of 4000 to 6000 meters (Pics. 13-42 – 13-44). All these gorges are rarely visited byalpinists and just a few summits are already climbed. Most of the visitors to this area are groups
of mountain tourists whose main goal is to trek the routes through the mountain passes.
Sometimes their routes have included the crossing of non-technical summits. Overall, this area isvisited much less by alpinists than the regions located to the east of Lenin Peak, despite the factthat approach to most gorges is easier from the west than from the eastern part of the Range.
The main valleys of northern slope, western part of the Zaalay Range in Kyrgyzstan are thefollowing: Kel-Duk, Keshu-Suu-Saz-Dzhailoo-Tichkarov-Ter-Asha, Dzhilga-Tor-Orto-Aryk-

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Chetki-Aryk with a convenient approach from the Alay Valley. A dirt road runs along the AltynDarya valley to the Tersagar Pass.
This region is located in the border area and a special permit is required.

Pic. 13-42. Kok-Kiyik and Achiksu glaciers orographic map.

Pic.13-43. Mindzhar and Synardzhar Glaciers orographic map

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Pic. 13-44. Orographic map of East side of Altyn-Daria River29

Pic. 13-45. Rogova Peak.

Pic. 13-46. Muzdzhilga Canyon of W Zaalay Range, Altyn-Darya Valley East side30

Appendix 1.

Tab of Zaalay Range N slope climbed peaks
Peak #
Peak Name\ altitude
on mapAchiktash area of Zaalay range
13.1.1
Lenin Peak, 7134 (from South)
Lenin Peak, 7134 (from North)13.1.213.1.313.1.4

Jipak Peak, 4461 m
Petrovskogo Peak, 4731

13.1.5.

30 years of Uzbekistan Peak,
5688 mXIX Parts’ezda, 5945

13.1.6

Razdelnaya Peak, 6148 m

13.1.713.1.813.1.9Juhina Peak, 5075
900-years of Minsk Peak, 4774
Domashnaia Peak, 4757

Route

N rib, Lipkin rocks
Lipkin rocks and N
ridge
Ower Razdelnaya
Peak, classic rout
Travers from W to E
Direct from N
E ridge fromKrylenko pass
N ridge
From Lenin E Gl
ower E culuar
from Lenin E Gl ower
NE ribtraverse from E to W
S ridge
From Achiktah
N ridge, from Jipak
Peak
N contrforse
From SWby W ridge
N contrforse of Wridge
N ridgefrom S pass
NW ridge

31

Year

Grade

E.Schneider
Chernukha K.
Ratsek V.

1928
1934
1950

5A
5A

Kovalev V

1954

5A

Abalakov V.
Arkin Iakov
Cheredova B.

1960
1960
1960

5A

Skurlatov J.
Benua R.

1967
1974

5A
5A

Scott D.

1974

5A

Kashafutdinov
V.
Starikov G.
ZaidlerStarikov G.

1991

5A

1967
1966
1967

1B
1B
3B

Pavlenko A.
Zemerov V.
Shabanov A.

1980

3B
4A
3A

Abalakov V.
Krasnoukhov J.

1952
1982

4A
4B

Beletskii J.
Eshtokin V.

1936
1956

3B
4A
3A

Nozdruhin V.

1951

Nozdrukhin V.
Nozdruhin V.
Dulesova M.

1951
1951
1975

Suslikov J.
Karpov P.

1975
1951

Karpov P.
Beletskii G.
Nozdruhin V.
Elchibekov V.
Elchibekov V.
Imants E.
Varep P.
Freyfeld V.I.

1955
1955
1956
1956
1956
1960
1960
1963

by E ridge

Korzhenevskii Glacier area of Zaalay Range
Janaidartakaiskaia Pila
Peak,4224
Korzhenevskogo Peak, 6008
Nazarova Peak, 5015
E slopeW slope of N
shoulderS ridgeW rib
Todo Peak, 4347
Traverse
Grot Peak,Koksay Peak,5366
N slope
Edinstva Peak, 6690
Obrucheva Peak, 5499
SE ridge
Kyzylaghyn Peak, 6683
Kyzylaghyn E Peak, 6624
Sovetskoi Latvii Peak, 6218
from W sedl
Sovetskoi Estonii Peak, 6202
From SVMF Peak, 5842m

First ascentteam lieder

2A
3A
3A
3B

3A
2B

3B
3A

Beletskogo Peak, 6075m
Spartakiada Peak, 5541

E ridge

Simanovicha Peak, 5798m
Tankograd Peak, 5147

Krasina Peak, 5999
6305 mCheliabinets Peak, 5265
6041m,
6310 mPanoramnyi Peak, 5027
Kholodnaia Stena Peak, 5233
Ledianoi Mys Peak, 5047
900 years of Minsk Peak, 4774
Prioziornyi Peak, 4510
Tashkent Peak, 4931
Laghernyi Peak, 4810
4645
30 years of Victory, 5298

Polkovaya Peak, 5097
Zaalay Range, to E from Kyzart pass
Arkhar\5308
Zaria Vostoka Peak, 6349
4812
5917
Chorku Peak, 6283
5893
Kurumdy Peak, 6613 m
6292
Belyi Peak, 5022
6186
5505
Kurumdy E, 6384
Aleksader Gubaev Peak, 5368
5985 (Eilera, 6022?) Peak
Veronika&Anna Peak,
Alpine Poppy, 4080
Kuchak (Puppy), 4150
Kharissa, 4365.4
Jolborz (Tiger) Peak, 4624
Mergenchi (Tracker) Peak, 4018
Byichi (Dancing Boy) Peak, 4347
Tohm (The Hub) Peak, 5071
Minaret Peak, 4480
Kartan Aughuze (Old Buffalo)
Peak, 5350
Uch Tubur (3 BrothersPeak)\ 5311
Сurperluk Peak, 4318
Tereze Peak, 4629
Chogurlush Peak, 4736
Kanzaada Peak, 4760
BBC Peak, 4685
Pray, 5128,5
Arkhar West\4900

32

E culuar
N ridgeSE ridge

NE ridge

Freyfeld V.I.
Eropunov A.
Freyfeld V.I.
Zagorui A.
Greilih P.
Sokolov S.
Laukhin Ia
Sokolenko V.
Retunskii J.
Potrebitch A.
Gonnov D.
Lebedev A.

1963
1963
1963
1975
1975
1975
1976
1981
1986
1989
2011
2014

3A
2A
2B
4A

2A

SW slope

2A

NE ridge

1B

S rib

1955
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000
2005
2005
2005
2005
2007
2008
2008
2008
2013
2014
2015
2015
2015
2015
2015
2015
2015
2015
2015

3B

From NE
From NW
N ridge
N ridgeW ridge
NW ridge
N ridge
From S
From NENE slope & NE ridge

Karpov P.
Novik A.
Novik A.
Novik A.
Germen team
Novik A.
Novik A.
Gubaev A.
Gubaev A.
Nikonorov A.
Gubaev A.
Vorozhischev M.
Kleslo M.
Lebedev A.
Zharov A.
Lebedev A.
Henri Bizot
Komissarov V.
Komissarov V.
Komissarov V.
Nelhams Adrian
Komissarov V.
Nelhams Adrian
Nelhams Adrian
Nelhams Adrian
Komissarov V

NW slope & W ridge

Tibbetts Ben

2015

3B

E ridge
S slope

Adrian Nelhams
Komissarov V.
Paulo Intropido
Adrian Nelhams
Adrian Nelhams
Paulo Intropido
Moshnikov I.

2016
2016
2016
2016
2016
2016
2018

Traverse from E

N ridge

NE slope
NW slope

W ridgeW ridge

5B

3A
3A
2B
1B
1B
1B
2B
1B
3A
2B
2B
3A

3A

Pogranichnik\5438
Kurumdy W Peak, 6554

From NW part of Zaalay Range from Achirtash to W part of Tersagar pass
Kokchokur Peak, 5185
Traverse
Abalakov B.
Sauksay PeakDzerzhinskogo Peak, 6713 m
N ridge
Beletskii J.
N rib
Stepanov N.
Kuznetsova PeakBy E kontrfors,
Zemerov V.
traverse
Sverdlova Peak, 5465
N ridge
Borodkin J.
Rogova Peak, 5195
S ridge
Zemerov V.
Tsurupy Peak, 5842
N ridge
Vlasov V.
Snezhnyi Bars Peak, 5491m
Traverse
Popov D.
5250
Popov D.
5307
SE ridge
Popov D.
Invalidov Peak, 5885 (5875?)
E ridgeZelentsov D.
Leitenantov Peak, 5122
N ridge

4A

1935

2B

1936
1980
1965

4B
5A
3B

1967

4A
3A
5A
2B

1979
2002
2002
2002
2003

2A
2B

Appendix 2. Photo reportage from ethno festival dedicated to 90th anniversary of the first ascent to Lenin
Peak, which took place in Achik-Tash gorge on the 5th of August, 2018.

33

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35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

Authors:
Vladimir Komissarov, PhD, IFMGA mountain guide, President of the Kyrgyz Mountain guides
Association and the Kyrgyz Alpine Club, engaged in Mountaineering for more than 50 years. He
has repeatedly visited all the areas described by him. In this issue, the following article is delivered.
The other articles will follow in succession.
Adrian Nelhams - Director of ISM (International School of Mountaineering), IFMGA British
Mountain Guide, with over 20 years’ experience of leading expeditions, climbing and exploring
the mountains of Kyrgyzstan, Alaska and other remote regions around the globe.

47