ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWSIssue No. 42 December 2018

Contents
Golden Age Climbers 19th century, Queens of the Climbers (1808-2018)

Page 2 ~10Lu Weidong Award-TCC Conference 2018 Beijing

Page 11~13

Estonian Indian East Karakoram Expedition 2018

Page 14~22

Climbing Technical Information in visual demonstration

Page 23~48

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(left) Sanjaa Zaya (right) Tom Nakamura showing a draft of Zaya’s book
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Lu Weidong awarded a prize for translation at the TCC Conference 2018 forLanguage Services: Innovation and Development held at Beijing incommemoration of 40 years Reform and Opening up.

Lu Weidong from Kunming, Yunnan Province

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Estonian team’s first ascent of highest unclimbed peakin Indian Eastern Karakoram Kunzang Range
On July 22 Estonian team - Kristjan-Erik Suurväli, Priit Simson, Priit Joosu, Lauri Ehrenpreis, Lauri Stern, Sven Oja, Meelis
Luukas and liaison officer Stanzing Norby and Sherpa Passang Temba Bhutia summited unclimbed peak 6801 (Lat: N
34°37'06.3192" Lon: E 78°04'38.7084") in East Karakoram Ladakh, India.
We left Rongdo village on 9th July (3,200m) to start 60 km trek towards the mountain. We trekked three days to basecamp (5,300m). During trek, we made overnight stops in Doksa summer village (4,045 m) and Hot Springs (4,607 m; N
34°29'13.2216", E 77°56'59.2800"), BC was established next to the moraine of the Sagtopa glacier (5,387 m N
34°31'02.9136", E 77°59'10.8348"). Our main objective was a highest summit in the region referred at the Ladakh andZanskar North map by Olizane as being 6721 meters and at Indian/(US NI 44-05) maps as 6751 meters (22150 ft.) high.
We used 20 horses for carry loads from road head all the way to BC. From BC to ABC we intended to use 15 porters, 3porters fell sick while arriving to BC.
On July 15th we crossed most of the southeast Shukpa Kunchang Glacier and established intermediate camp at 5,778 m (N34°33'32.8536" E 78°01'10.9560"). Glacier was in good shape, covered with strong snow and snow bridges over crevasses
and did not provide any particular difficulties. There more porters turned back and we continued with nine porters, sharing
load carry also ourselves.
On July 16th we climbed to the col between SE Shukpa Kunchang Glacier and Phurdukpa Glacier. We crossed the col at thepoint 6041 m (N 34°34'18.1200" E 78°01'53.9040"). The lowest point of the Col was at the 5981 meters, but heavily
corniced and crevassed from the North side, so that we had to climb bit up and find suitable point to make a 180-meter
rappel. It was first know crossing of the col, so we named it “Estonian Col”. Our intention to was fix the col so that wecould constantly supply ABC to take several climbing and exploratory trips from there. Col appeared to steep andcrevassed for our remaining 9 porters to make repeated crossings. In addition, we did not have spare fixed rope to leave
there., so we failed to carry out initial plan for longer climbing trips and concentrated from there on to unclimbed peak6751.
On the 17th we established ABC at the crossing of Phurdukpa glacier and unnamed glacier that leads to the mountain at
the height 4,878 m (N 34°36'28.6668" E 78°07'30.5508"). ABC was next to the river at windy and sandy spot, so we named
it “windy corner”. Fortunately, we found pool of fresh water at the vicinity of the ABC. On 18th 7 porters under theleadership of sherpa Dawa Jeba went back to BC.
On the 19th we moved to the unnamed glacier and in the worsening weather established intermediate camp at 5,553 m(N 34°36'24.8796“, E 78°05'22.5456“). Next day we moved from unnamed glacier to the mountain itself and next to therock island set 2nd camp at 5,935.53 m (N 34°36'38.6316" E 78°03'48.5388") and on the 21th we established high camp on
the SW ridge at the 6298 m (N 34°36'46.0836" E 78°04'12.7200"). Morning of the July 22nd started with snowfall so wehad to postpone summit attempt from 2 AM to 4 AM. Still it was snowing and windy, but we climbed first snow slopes inon the firm snow. There was ice step before entering couloir leading under summit pyramid. Step was about 30 meters atheight (grade WI 3).
Summit pyramid itself consisted manly loose rocks and we took outmost care not to drop any stones to each other heads.
Summit was short knife-edge snow ridge at the height 6801 meters (N 34°37'06.3192" E 78°04'38.7084").
Due to continuously clouded weather and snowfall, return to the Rongdo valley was more dangerous. Snow-bridges on SE
Shukpa Kunchang glacier were softer and rope-leader took five falls to crevasses.
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On Google map mountain is named Kunchang Kangri. In Eberhard Jurgalski “All mountains and main peaks above 6650 m”(http://www.8000ers.com) mountain is called “"PHURDUKPO KANGRI I" and Günter Seyfferth from http://www.himalayainfo.org/ calls it - “Unnamed Peak I Kungzang”, The Mountain Encyclopedia: AN A to Z, lists it as “Mandaltang I”. Therefore,
it is sure that the mountain has no common name, nor has it been correctly measured before.
We took liberty to name mountain “Rangston Gyathok” meaning in Ladakhi one hundred years of independence, tocelebrate 100-year birthday of Estonian Republic.
Mountain true height 6801 meters will make it world 294th highest mountain, with prominence over 500 meters and its
prominence being 1041 meters instead of 991 meters.
Rimo Expeditions, whose leaders Chewang Motup Yangdu Goba were great help to us, provided expedition logistics. Inaddition, unexpected, but unreplaceable asset was LO Stanzing Norby passionate climber with great knowledge about
Ladakh history.
Liason Officer - Stanzing Norby (Norboo)
Crew: Sherpa’s Passang Temba Bhutia and Dawa Jeba.
BC cook Sanber, ABC cook Nima Dorje.
Two remaining porters making carry to the high camp were Lokrjat Thakur and Prakash Pokhral.

On the Summit
From left to right Passang Temba Bhutia, Lauri Stern, Stanzing Norby, Meelis Luukas, Sven Oja, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli, Lauri
Ehrenpreis, Priit Joosu, Priit Simson.
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Our ABC and onwards crew from left to right after expedition in Rongdo village: Passang Temba Bhutia, Prakash Pokhral,
Dawa Jeba, Nima Dorje, Sanber, Lokrjat Thakur and L.O. Stanzing Norby (Norboo)

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View from col towards southwest (Agran Kangri) Photo: Priit Simon
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Lower part of the glacier under 6751. Nice and firm. Upper part was more crevassed and also snow covered.

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SE Shukpa Kunchang towards west (Agran Kangri) Photo: Kristjan-Erik Suuvali
6View to south from camp 5935 on peak 6751 Photo: Kristjan-Erik Suurvali

SE Shukpa Kunchang towards Rongdo. Mountain on the left should be Khyng Kangri (6183) climbed in 2013
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SE Shukpa Kunchang towards west (Agran Kangri) Photo: Priit Simon

Descending to the col from east Photo: Lauri Ehewbpeis
8Col route finding. We had to descend to the Phurdukpa Glacier on the left.

Summit Photo: Sven Oja
9Seilschaftsabsturz Obstanzer EisfallDezember 2017

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Standplatzaufbau

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

2verwendetes Material

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

3verwendetes Material

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

4verwendetes Material

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

5verwendetes Material

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

6verwendetes Material

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Unfallhergang
Sturzposition

StandLiegeposition

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8Unfallhergang

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Unfallursachen• schlechtes Eis am Stand• keine Schraube nach dem Stand• Aufbau am Einzelstrang
mit Knoten an scharfen Kanten
Abschätzen der Kräfte:HMS-Doppelseil ca. 4 - 5 kN
Sichernder ca. 0,8 KN=> Belastung 4,8 - 5,8 kN> 9 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

6-8 kN< 5 kN

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Festigkeiten

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Festigkeiten
6,0 mm Edelrid Kevlar Reepschnur (Rapline I)
Einzelstrang
statische Festigkeit

100 %24,4 kN

MW an Karabiner-> ca. -66%

8,5 kN

MW an Eisschraube-> ca. -33%

5,7 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit -> ca. -20%

4,5 kN
Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit-> ca. 100%

48,8 kN

Doppelstrang an Karabiner-> ca. -50%

24,3 kN

Doppelstrang an Eisschraube-> ca. -49%

12,5 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit -> ca. -20%

10 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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abgeschätzte Festigkeiten Unfall-Reepschnur, 5,5 mm KevlarEinzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %

21 kN

42 kN

Knoten-> ca.-65%

7,3 kN

14,6 kNscharfe Kante-> ca.-33%

4,9 kN

9,8 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca.-20%

3,9 kN

7,8 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Mechanismus

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

Je „statischer“ das Material, desto schlechter
die Kräfteverteilung unter Biegung

14Beinahe-Unfall „Brunsin“/Sella
September 2018

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StandplatzaufbauVerband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Standplatzaufbau

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Standplatzaufbau

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Bruchbild

Abschätzen der Kräfte:2 Personen am Stand: ca. 1,3 kN
Stürzender in Platte: ca. 3,1 kN=> Belastung ca. 4,4 kN> 9 kN

6-8 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

< 5 kN

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Festigkeiten
5,5 mm Beal Kevlar Reepschnur

Einzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %15,6 kN

31 kN

Knoten-> ca. -65%

5,5 kN

13,3 kN

Alterung-> ca. -16%

4,6 kN

11,2 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca. -20%

3,7 kN

9 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

20Festigkeiten
6,0 mm Edelrid Kevlar Reepschnur

Einzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %24,4 kN

48,8 kN

Knoten-> ca. -64%

8,8 kN

17,5 kN

Alterung-> ca. -16%

7,4 kN

14,7 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca. -20%

5,9 kN

11,8 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

21Festigkeiten
5,5 mm Beal Dyneema Reepschnur

Einzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %

18 kN

36 kN

Knoten-> ca. -53%

8,5 kN

17 kN

Alterung-> ca. -6%

7,9 kN

15,8 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca. -20%

6,3 kN12,6 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Festigkeiten
7 mm Polyamid Reepschnur

Einzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %

10 kN

20 kN

Knoten-> ca. -50 %

5 kN

10 kN

Alterung-> ca. -15 %4,3 kN

8,5 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca. -10 %3,9 kN

7,8 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Festigkeiten
16 mm Polyamid Band (drei Kennfäden)Einzelstrang

Doppelstrang

statische Festigkeit

100 %

18 kN

36 kN

Knoten-> ca. -60 %7,2 kN

14,4 kN

Alterung-> ca. -25 %5,4 kN

10,8 kNstatische – dynamische Festigkeit-> ca. -15 %4,6 kN

9,2 kN

Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

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Abseilstände

10 - 12 kN

4 - 6 kN

Für: 5,5-6 mm Kevlar/Dyneema Reepschnur, 8 mm Polyamid Reepschnur, 16 mm Polyamid Band
Verband Deutscher Berg- und Skiführer e.V.

25vermeide den Einzel-Strang!

Kein Einzelstrang am Standplatz!

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