日本の魅 力
発見プロジェクト

〜新 潟 県 燕三条 地 域 ︑ 新 潟 市〜

NIIGATA新潟
BEYOND ORDINARY ITINERARIESThe Tsubame-Sanjo Area,
Niigata City in Niigata PrefectureBeyond Ordinary Itineraries
The Tsubame-Sanjo Area,
Niigata City in Niigata Prefecture日本の魅 力発見プロジェクト

〜新 潟 県 燕三条 地 域 ︑ 新 潟 市〜

NIIGATA新潟
BEYOND ORDINARY ITINERARIESThe Tsubame-Sanjo Area,
Niigata City in Niigata PrefectureCONTENTS

p.8

Introduction
Niigata, the Other Side of Snow Mountain Region

p.9
Chapter.1

Tsubame-Sanjo area
The Place for Artisans Who Breathe Life into Their Craft

p.31
Chapter.2

Niigata-shi
The Town of Richly Fermented Culturep.46

One Day Trip
to Tsubamesanjo by Joetsu Shinkansen

p.50

Two - Day Trip
to Niigata by Joetsu Shinkansen

魅 力を探る新潟県

多くの人にとって、新潟県のイメージは雪国であろう。川端康成の小説『雪国』の舞台も新潟。新潟への旅の目的として真っ先に頭にChapter

浮 か ぶ の も、 ス キ ー や ス ノ ー ボ ー ド。 事 実、 ス キ ー 場 サ イ ト

1“Tsubame-Sanjo area”「SNOWNET」によると、新潟にあるスキー場は 48 軒で、長野県、
北海道に次いで全国３位だ（2017 年現在）
。また、全国で最も白鳥The Place for Artisans
Who Breathe Life into Their Craftが飛来する県としても知られており、10 月上旬から渡ってくる白鳥
は、11 月下旬頃のピーク時に 5 千羽を超え、４月、シベリアに帰っtext by Rei Saionji
photographs by Hide Urabeていく。しかし今回は『新潟＝雪国』というイメージとは異なる、
新潟県の奥深い素顔を探るべく上越新幹線に乗り込んだ。

If you say you are going to Niigata, nine out of ten Japanese would
say, “Oh! You are going to ski!” In fact, there are 48 ski resorts in
the Niigata prefecture, which is third highest number of ski resorts
in one prefecture following Nagano and Hokkaido (from the dataof 2017, “SNOWNET”). Niigata is also well known as the place

Niigata, the Other Sideof Snow Mountain Region

where the highest numbers of swans come to spend the winter inJapan. From the beginning of October swans are seen and the number of swans reaches over 5,000 at the end of November. They stay
until April and then fly back toward Siberia.
This time we head for Niigata via the Joetsu-Shinkansen to look forinteresting attractions beyond ordinary itineraries associated with
Winter or snow.

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NIIGATA九 十 九 神 ︵つく もがみ︶の故 郷

素 顔の新潟の日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト

Niigata Prefecture

燕三条 地 域

雪 化 粧を落とした

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

that it could be used for a long time, through generations. Thus,
people loved and took good care of things just like how they loved
and took good care of people. The philosophy of Tsukumo-gami
may have developed as a way to teach people how to behave towards
each other and objects. The objects created with tender care ofan artisan were regarded as precious as if it were a baby born fromloving parents. Now, much weight is laid on efficiency and mass
production, which means that, regrettably, craftsmanship is put
aside. That said, there is still a great respect for artisans in Japan, andJapanese people still cherish their possessions and take good care ofthings. The concept “Mottainai” (trans. a term conveying a senseof regret concerning waste), which became world famous when a
Kenyan environmentalist introduced it at a session of the United

の故 郷
燕三条地域

古来、日本には、九十九神という考え方が存在する。
『九十九神』とNations.

は長い年月使い続けた物には神が宿り、粗末に扱えば祟り、大切にWe would like to introduce the area called Tsubame-Sanjo, where

扱えば恩を返すというもので、八百万の神の国、日本ならではの考

traditional craftsmanship is still alive. Since 2013, a four-day event

え方だ。長い間、世代を超えて使い続けることができるようにと作

called “Tsubame-Sanjo Factory Festival” is held during Autumn

られた物には、作り手の丹精や魂が込められている。その魂が使いin the Tsubame-Sanjo area in the Niigata prefecture. Factories

手の「大事にする」という心と出会った時に神になるという九十九

are open to the public during this event so visitors can visit to see

神の考え方は、国際的にも有名になった「もったいない」という言

artisans at work and experience some processes involved in the

葉の基盤の一つであるかもしれない。

production of local goods. In 2017 it will be held from the 5th tosuch as tools were made by craftsmen with the utmost care to ensure

The Place for Artisans
Who Breathe Life into Their Craft

九十九神 （つくもがみ）

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新潟県の燕三条地域では 2013 年から毎年秋に、そんな日本のものづくりの現場を見聞できる『燕三条 工場の祭典』という催しが行われている。4 日間の期間中、地域の工場が開放され、ものづくりの現場の見学や体験ができるというもの。2017 年は 10 月 5 日〜 10
月 8 日に開催される予定だが、一足先に、期間外でも見学できる工場を訪問するため燕三条駅で下車した。

From ancient times there exist a general idea of Tsukumo-gami(trans. ninety-nine gods), which means a god dwells in objects thathave been used for a long time. This god manifests in terrible way if
the object it dwells in is treated roughly, but it also shows gratitude
and grants favours to the objects owner if treated with respect andcare. This concept is one of the features of traditional philosophy inJapan. When there were no machines, all objects were hand craftedwith a lot of thought and effort put into their creation. Objects

10

8th October. We visited, in advance to this festival, some of thefactories that are open to the public all year round.
We got on Joetsu-Shinkansen at Tokyo Station and got off at
Tsubame-Sanjo station. Tsubame-Sanjo is just a name of thestation, and does not correlate with the name of any nearby place.
Sanjo is the name of the municipality where the station is located,while Tsubame is the name of neighboring municipality. In the early 17th century farmers of the area suffered as the river often overflowed. To solve this problem, the local governor invited skilledcraftsmen who specialized in nails to teach the farmers their craft.

この駅名、燕三条という名前の町があるわけではない。駅は三条市にあり、隣の燕市と名前を合体させた駅名である。現三条市と燕市
は、江戸時代の初期、五十嵐川の氾濫に苦しむ農民を救済するため、江戸から釘鍛冶職人を招いて和釘の製造方法の指導を受けたことから、農家の副業として和釘を製造するようになる。その後、鍛冶技

NIIGATA

術を取り入れることによって、釘だけでなく鎌、鋸、庖丁を作る専

to discover the craftsmanship in the area. The tourist information

業の鍛冶職人が生まれ、『鍛冶の町』として知られるようになったと

is also available at the information desk.

いう経緯があり、駅名を一つとするこの 2 市は今でも、協力して地In this trip, we were able to see craftsmen at work putting their

域産業を守っている。

heart and soul into objects. The sprit, philosophy, and passion of

燕三条駅の改札口を出ると『燕三条駅観光物産センター

燕三条

all the people who were involved in the factories from the time ofWing』がある。ここは、燕市と三条市で作られている製品やお土産

their establishment till now are reflected in finished products. The

品が美しくディスプレイされており、店の天井からは、燕三条地域

products are animated with the soul of the craftsman and they seem

を代表する職人の写真が印刷されたタペストリーが下がっている。

to be waiting for someone who use them and love them. Through

これから始まる『ものづくり探訪の旅』の序章のようで、心をワク

this, we understood the real meaning of “value”, and the importance

ワクとさせる。この観光物産センターには、燕三条地域の観光案内

of tender care towards objects. In the area of Tsubame-Sanjoをしてくれるコンシェルジュが常勤しており、見学できる工場につthere are seventeen factories which are open for the public all year

いての情報も丁寧に教えてくれるのでとても心強い。

round. “Tsubame-Sanjo Factory Festival” is a good occasion to visit

燕三条地域では、それぞれの工場で、職人が魂を込めてものづくり

factories, however even if you can’t make it at this time we highlyに励む姿を見ることができた。出来上がった製品には、創業から現

recommend you to visit factories in this area to have a once in a

在に至るまで、その工場に関わった全ての人々の哲学と情熱が反映

lifetime opportunity to witness traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

されている。職人が丹精込めて作り出した製品の中に、職人の魂が宿ることで命が吹き込まれ、これから出会う使い手の愛情を得るべ
く待機しているように感じられた。ものづくりの現場を見学することによって、物の価値や、物を大切にする心の重要性を改めて学べた。
燕三条地域には、今回訪問した工場以外にも年間を通じて見学が可
能な工場が 17 軒ある。秋の『燕三条 工場の祭典』の開催中のみに限らず、燕三条地域を訪れてはいかがだろうか。

Since then farmers made nails as a side-business and as a result they
were able to have a financial back-up plan when the overflowed
river damaged their cropland. Once the forging technique was developed, blacksmiths who created sickles, saws, and kitchen knives
appeared. Thus this area became famous as “the town of forging”.
Even though the area is divided into two municipalities, they gather
to corporate with each other to protect the local industry. So, thename of the station is symbolic for this corporation.
In the station premises, we found a neatly displayed shop named“Tsubame-Sanjo Wing” where many kinds of regional products andsouvenirs are sold. Faces of craftsmen from Tsubame-Sanjo woven
into hanging tapestries appeared to be almost inviting us on a trip

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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NIIGATABeyond Ordinary Itineraries

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NIIGATA

の中にだけ存在し、感覚のみで形成していくという。素人考えでは、銅板は叩くと薄くなり、その分広がるのかと思いきや、事実はその逆で、叩くことにより縮めていくという、まさにマジックのような作業を、固唾を呑んで見学した。
作業の際に生じる金属音が室内に響かないように、また、自然光をより多く採り入れることができるように窓が大きく作られている。
数人の職人の、その金鎚を叩くリズムや叩き方が一人一人違うことに気付く。口打出は全ての工程を一人の職人が担当するため、製品

玉川堂 （ぎょくせんどう）

板から作る特殊な工法だ。しかも、図面はなく、設計図は職人の頭

Gyokusen-do,
Hand-Hammered Copper Wareが出来上がった後、それを作った職人が分かるらしい。まさに、神Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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世界有数の金属加工産地である燕市のルーツは、江戸時代初期、和釘作りが始まったことに端を発すると言う。その中で、玉川堂は、

19 世紀初頭、江戸時代後期に鎚起銅器の製法を受け継ぎ、日常銅器の製造を始めた初代から約 200 年もの間、燕市で銅器を作り続けている老舗。初代は「やかん屋覚兵衛」と呼ばれていた。
日本が開国した後、ウィーン万国博覧会、世界コロンビア博覧会、
日英博覧会などの海外の博覧会に出品し、国際的にもその美しさと技術は高い評価を受けている。
有形文化財に登録されている明治時代末期に建てられた重厚な造りの日本家屋。門をくぐり、敷地内に足を一歩踏み入れるだけで、タ
イムスリップしたような感覚を覚える。
鎚起銅器（ついきどうき）とは、一枚の銅板を鉄の金鎚で何度も叩くことによって立体の銅器を作っていく製法で、今回は口打出の急須を作る工程を見学した。通常の急須は、注ぎ口だけを後から作り、穴を開けた本体に錫で留めて作るところを、その口までも一枚の銅16が製品に宿る瞬間を目撃したような感覚を覚えた。
鉄の金鎚は三条の鍛冶屋に作ってもらう特注品。カーンカーンと、一叩きする度に職人の魂が込められていく。
金鎚で叩いた跡が、そのまま製品の模様となる。言い換えれば、製品の肌は金鎚によって作りだされる。出来上がった製品には、金鎚を作った職人と、叩いた職人の両方の魂が籠っているのだ。
̶
玉川堂
http://www.gyokusendo.com
新潟県燕市中央通 2 丁目 2 番 21 号

TEL:0256-62-2015
営業時間： 8 ： 30 〜 17 ： 30

定休日：日曜・祝日
上越新幹線「燕三条駅」から車で 5 分、弥彦線「燕駅」から徒歩 3 分。

Tsubame-shi is known for its metal works internationally. Among
many factories of metal working Gyokusen-do is the leading
hand-hammered copperware making factory. Its 200 years ofhistory started when the founder learned the technique of making

NIIGATAhand-hammered copperware in the beginning of the 19th century.
He made daily copperwares like kettles.
After Japan opened its gate to the world at the end of 19th century,
it began to promote its high quality products to increase exports.
Gyokusen-do was always included in this endeavour and evenexhibited their products in Vienna World’s Fair in 1873, World’s
Columbian Exposition in 1893, Japan-British Exhibition in 1910and so on. In every exhibition Gyokusen-do was highly regarded
for the beauty of its products and sophisticated techniques.

The Place for Artisans
Who Breathe Life into Their Craft

The factory is in a building built inthe beginning of 20th century, which
is now a registered Tangible Cultural
Property. One step inside the gate will

make you feel as if you were transported through time. Hand-hammered copperwares are called Tsuiki-doki in Japanese. We were fortunate enough to witness the production process for teapot making.
A skilled craftsman hammered a copper plate many times to makea three-dimensional shape. Normally a spout is made separately
and is attached later with melted tin. But we saw a very special
technique where the craftsman produced a whole teapot, even a
spout. Surprisingly, he created a teapot without looking at a design
drawing. He just hammered and hammered following the design

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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NIIGATAplan that he had in his brain. The technique of hand-hammering isjust like a magic. You may imagine that the copper gets thinner andwider when it is hammered. However, in reality the copper plate
just diminishes in size when hammered.
The room where craftsmen work has a high ceiling for acoustic
reasons so as to prevent the clanking sound from reverberating.
The windows are large enough to let natural light in. We noted thateach craftsman has his own rhythm and the way of hammering. As
one craftsman makes one product all by himself, it is distinguishable to the trained eye who created the product. While watching a
craftsman hammer a copper plate, we felt as if we had witnessed themoment when an aura or spark of life enters into an object.
The iron hammer is custom-made by a blacksmith in Sanjo-shi.
One clank after another, a craftsman put his heart and soul into a
product. Marks made by an iron hammer become the pattern ofthe products. In other words, the skin of the products is made by ahammer. The soul and the spirit of the two craftsmen- the one who
made the hammer and the one who uses the hammer to make theobject- dwell in the final products.
—
Gyokusen-do
http://www.g yokusendo.com/
2-2-21 Chuo-dori, Tsubame-shi, Niigata-ken
TEL: 0256-62-2015
Open: 8:30-17:30
Closed on Sundays and bank holidays
Access: 5 minutes by car from Tsubame-Sanjo station of Joetsu-Shinkansen, or 3
minutes on foot from Tsubame station of Yahiko-line.

山崎 金 属 工 業

第一次世界大戦が終了した 1918 年、初代が鎚起銅器の技術を習得した後、独立。手作業でスプーンを作る工房を開いてから現在に至るまで、日本のカトラリー（ ナイフ、フォーク、スプーンなどの食卓用道具の総称）の製造を牽引してきた工場である。自ら設立した
アメリカの現地法人があり、ノーベル賞 90 周年記念晩餐会用のカ
トラリーを作るなど、海外での評価も非常に高い。
『燕三条 工場の祭典』の期間以外は見学できないが、今回は特別に工場とショールー
ムを見学させてもらった。
日本におけるカトラリーの歴史は、日本が開国した後、西洋の文化が一般庶民にまで広がっていった歴史と重なる。山崎金属工業が設立された当初の顧客は主に、神戸や横浜に居留していた外国人であった。1960 年代、
日本では洋食をナイフとフォークで食べる習慣はまだ一般的ではなかった高度経済成長の真っ只中に、
世界約 65 カ
国を巡り、飛込み営業で自ら世界へ販路を開拓。日本の丁寧なもの

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NIIGATA

づくりの文化を世界に広めていき、洋食器の本場であるヨーロッパ“Tsubame-Sanjo Factory Festival”, but as an exception to this rule

やアメリカで高い評価を得るようになった。どの家庭にも、ナイフ

we were allowed to see the factory and the showroom.

やフォークが置いてあるようになった現在、日本製カトラリーの90％を生産している燕市の中で、山崎金属工業は中心的な存在とThe history of cutlery in Japan started after the country opened

なっている。

its door to the world and its domestic lifestyle slowly gravitatedtowards Westernization. Before that, chopsticks were the only tools代表取締役の山崎悦次さん

Mr. Etsuji Yamazaki, the president

カトラリーの品質とは、デザインの美しさ、手触り、口触りと舌触used at the dinner table. Thus the first clients of Yamazaki wereりである。実にカトラリーとは、食卓において三役をこなさなけれWesterners who were living in foreign settlements such as Kobe andばならない運命を背負わされた珍しい道具である。食事が運ばれる

Yokohama. In the 1960s when the custom of using knives and forks

前からテーブルの上にセットされているカトラリーは、これから運

were still not common among ordinary Japanese people, Yamazaki

ばれて来る美味しい食事を想像させる主人公の一人として、食事がvisited 65 countries in the world to develop sales channels. As

運ばれた際には、作られた料理をより洗練され、文明的であると見he spread the philosophy of precise product making all over the

せる脇役として。そして、料理を食べるべく口の中に運ぶ際には、

world, his cutlery became highly valued in Europe and the US, the

その存在をできる限り消して主役をサポートする黒子となる。いく

homelands of cutlery. Now almost every household in Japan has

ら美しいスプーン / フォークであっても、口の中に入れた時に存在

knives and forks. In Tsubame-shi,を主張するのでは、質の高いスプーン / フォークとは言えないので

The Place for Artisans
Who Breathe Life into Their Craftある。ここでは、安価品は 10 工程ほどで作られるところを約 35 工

Yamazaki Kinzoku Kogyo,
Cutlery

程、デザインによっては 50 以上の工程をかけて作っている。

where about 90% of Japanese cutlery is
made, Yamazaki Kinzoku Kogyo plays
a leading role.

カトラリーは日本の伝統的な道具ではないが、ここで作られていThe beauty of the design, the texture felt in your hands, and the

るのは、日本の職人が手間と知恵を余すところなくかけた Made in

texture felt on your lips and tongue...these are the key elements

Japan の素晴らしい製品だ。日本の家庭やホテルなどの飲食店はもthat differentiate good cutlery from ordinary ones according to Mr.

ちろん、多くの国で使われている。

Yamazaki. In fact, cutlery has three roles: Cutlery set on the table̶should be beautiful and inviting as the main character; When dishes

山崎金属工業are displayed on the table, cutlery should enhance their appearance

http://www.yamazakitableware.co.jp

to ensure the place setting looks civilized and gorgeous; And when

新潟県燕市大曲 2570 番地
工場見学は、『燕三条 工場の祭典』の期間のみ可能。

are actually in use, they must not dominate their users sense of taste.
Even a very beautiful fork cannot be qualified as a fork of high quality
if a user’s lips identify the metallic feel or taste. Low-priced cutlery

Yamazaki Kinzoku Kogyo (Yamazaki Metalworking Factory) has

is made through about ten processes, while in this factory there are

been a leading factory of cutlery in Japan. Its history dates back toabout 35 or more than 50 depending on the designs. Although cut-

1918, the year when World War I ended, when the founder set up

lery is not a traditional Japanese tool, the cutlery of Yamazaki is truly

a small factory of handmade spoons after he learned the techniquea “Made in Japan” product, crafted with extra care and great expertise.

of making hand-hammered copper ware. Their products have beenhighly valued also in the overseas market. They supplied cutlery—
Yamazaki Kinzoku Kog yo

for the gala dinner which celebrated the 90th anniversary of Nobel

http://www.yamazakitableware.co.jp/2570 Oomagari, Tsubame-shi, Niigata prefecture
Factory is only open to the public during the Factory Festival

Prize. Their factory is open for public only during the four days of

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NIIGATAまで感じたことのないような切れ味で思い通りの厚さに切れてしまう。切れ味がこれほど良いと、顔がほころんでしまう。良い切れ味
は使い手の喜びなのだ。
工場では、まさに、『鉄は熱いうちに打て』を実践するが如く、真っ赤に溶けた鉄を叩いて刃物を作っていく。職人は、機械に取りつけられた大型のハンマーを足で操作し、刃物を叩いていく。鉄を溶かす火の熱さを感じ、一心に刃物を叩く職人は、使い手の笑顔のために魂を込めているのだ。なぜなら、刃物を使う者の喜びが、その切れ味であると知っているから。
̶庖丁工房タダフサ 直営店 / 工場
http://www.tadafusa.com
新潟県三条市東本成寺 27-16
TEL:0256-32-2184
業務時間： 8 時〜 17 時／工場見学が可能な時間： 10 時〜 11 時半、 13 時半〜 16 時

In famous Kappabashi, Tokyo, which is known as “a kitchenware
town” where there are hundreds of shops selling various kindsof kitchenware, many tourists who buy Japanese knives are seen.
Culinary experts regard the superior quality of Japanese knives in-1948 年、戦後間もなく創業の庖丁工房タダフサ。創業当初は、鎌、ternationally. Tadafusa started its history as a knife-maker in 1948,

小刀、庖丁を手がけ、その後、漁業用刃物・家庭用刃物・本職用刃soon after the World War II ended. At the beginning, they made

物・蕎麦切り庖丁などの多岐に亘った刃物を鍛造し販売するように

mainly sickles, short swords and kitchen knives but their productなった。まずは、モダンなデザインの建物に驚き、次に中へ一歩足

range soon broadened and they began to make various kinds ofを踏み入れると、様々な庖丁がディスプレイされ、アトリエのよう

knives corresponding to the purpose of use as knives for fishermen,

なショールームに感動を覚える。なかなかお目にかかることのない

kitchen knives for household, kitchen knives for professional cooks,

形状の刃物類を見ていると、驚きのエクスクラメーションマークがkitchen knives for soba makers . Soba are Japanese noodles made

頭の中を駆け巡る。様々な刃物の形をじっと見つめていると、一言with buck wheat and they are like Italian tagliatelle made by cutting

で『切る』と言っても、切る物の大きさ、形、硬さ、厚みなどによっ

the dough with a knife. Soba making requires a heavy, straightて、力の入れ具合や、また動作そのものが異なるものだと気付く。

and long knife. Tadafusa has produced and sold all kinds of knives

使い手の立場で、可能な限り使いやすくと考案し工夫した結果であり、熟練の職人たちによって生みだされた、ものづくりの真髄を実感させる逸品ばかりだ。今は製造されていない刃物の数々も、ギャ
ラリーには展示されている。
家庭での食生活も多様化し、今では珍しくなくなったパン切り庖丁。

の歯がとらえ、柔らかい食パンをつぶすことなく、滑るように、今Tadafusa,
Knives庖 丁 工房タダフサ

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

25

パン切り庖丁と言えば、刃全体がワニの歯のようになっている物が主流だが、庖丁工房タダフサのそれは、先端だけがワニの歯状になっている。これで切れるのか？ 試し切りをしてみる。切り始めをワニ

24

NIIGATA

of human body and the intentions are

imaginable suited to the purposes of their users.

The Place for Artisans
Who Breathe Life into Their Craft

In a showroom with a modern design that reminds us an atelier
where artists work, various kinds of knives are displayed like art
works. Some of them have “strange” shapes. It is an amusing game

different depending on what one istrying to cut. To be precise, the degreeof pressure and motion involved in

to imagine the purpose for which they were made. All the charac-

cutting change depending on the size,

teristics are meaningful, which are solutions developed by the skil-

the shape, the hardness, and thickness. Also, the skill-level of user,

ful craftsmen of Tadafusa for the problems and challenges of theirprofessional or novice, would be another key factor. These knives

clients. Cutting is an action to divide or to make something smaller

are artworks created by craftsmen who put themselves in users’

or thinner. It may also be used for breaking. Looking at every pieceshoes, which is the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship!

of a knife, however, you can be astonished to realize that the actions

As eating habits in Japan are now Westernized, bread knives are
not so rare in many households. Normally their edges are all wavy
and serrated, but the bread knife of Tadafusa is different. Just fora few centimeters the tip is serrated and other part is flat just likenormal knives. This bread knife was made for Japan’s bread culture.
Even though hard-crusted bread is popular in Japan now, the breadmainly preferred is shoku-pan (trans. bread for meal), a soft andwhite square shaped loaf. In supermarkets shoku-pan is usually soldalready sliced. Those who appreciate high quality bread prefer tobuy a loaf in bakeries and cut them by themselves. As shoku-pan’s
crust is soft and the inner part is even softer, if sliced with a blunt
knife the bread will be pressed or with a serrated one its surface will
become rough. This is where Tadafusa’s bread knife comes in. Its
serrated tip holds the soft crust and its sharp edge goes through thebread so smoothly. You should try using it at Tadafusa’s showroom.
You will know how pleasing the sharpness of a well made knife is!
This knife is also recommended for cutting soft things with skinsuch as tomatoes.
“Strike while the iron is hot.” This is a famous idiomatic phrase
which is also used in Japan. Here in Tadafusa’s factory, you can see
craftsmen striking red-hot iron. They operate a hammering machine by foot and carefully watch the state of the iron. It is as if thespirit of craftsmen who know that sharpness will bring happiness tousers is pumped into the knife with every pound of a hammer.
—
Tadafusa, atelier of kitchen knives
http://www.tadafusa.com/
27-16 Higashi-honjoji, Sanjo-shi, Niigata prefecture
Tel: 0256-32-2184
Open: from 8:00 to 17:00 / Factory tour: from 10:00 to 11:30, from 13:30 to 16:00

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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27

NIIGATAマルナオ

求した結果生み出された。

元々、初代は仏壇彫刻師であり、寺社を装飾する彫刻を施す会社として 1939 年に創業した。現在では、黒檀や紫檀など、家具や仏壇に使われる最高級の硬木を使用して作る箸を中心に、スプーンやエマルナオの特徴である細くて軽い箸は、その存在を感じさせず、持っ

スプレッソカップ、ステーショナリーを製造している。シンプルモた瞬間に違和感なく手にしっくりと馴染む。細く仕上げられた先端

ダンな外観で、お洒落なブティックを思わせる店内には、細く華奢

は、どんなに小さなものでも難なくつまむことができる。小さい頃な造りの箸が美しくディスプレイされている。

から、マルナオの箸を使えば、箸さばきの楽しさが身体に染み付き、食べることそのものを楽しく感じられるに違いない。

工場は、ショールームのガラス越しに見ることができる。一人一人の職人が、細い木をさらに細く削っている。木を荒削りにした後、

̶

形を整え、先端を極細にしていく繊細な作業のため、一人の職人がマルナオ

1 日に作ることができる箸は 40 膳。極細に仕上げつつも、面と面でhttp://www.marunao.com
新潟県三条市矢田 1662-1
TEL: 0256-45-7001
店舗の営業時間： 10 時〜 19 時
工場見学が可能な時間： 9 時〜 17 時半

滑らずに物をつまむため箸先を八角形にする。手元と箸先を八角形にし、真ん中を十六角形に削るという特殊な形は、使いやすさを追Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

28

29

NIIGATA醸す町

Now Japanese cuisine is popular in overseas many people are getting
accustomed to eating with chopsticks. Japanese people are known
to be clever with their fingers, which is probably because they use
chopsticks. Chopsticks, however, run the gamut from disposable
ones to ones of high quality. Here in Marunao, you will know the

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト

Niigata Prefecture

新潟県

best of chopsticks and witness the process for their production.
The founder of Marunao was a craftsman who started his career creating wood-carvings for Buddhist wooden cabinets. At the time of
the foundation of the company in 1939, they offered wood-carvings

Chapter

to temples and shrines. Lately, they make mainly chopsticks using

2

ebony and rosewood. These wood types are hard and traditionally“Niigata-shi”

used for furniture, including Buddhist wood cabinets. Marunao

The Town of Richly Fermented Culture

also makes and sells wooden spoons, wooden espresso cups and sta-text by Rei Saionji
photographs by Hide Urabe

tionery with the unused sections of wood remaining from chopstick
production. In their modern style shop, which is cool and simple
like a luxurious boutique, fine and delicate chopsticks of the highest
quality are displayed.
In the factory you can see how craftsmen work through a glass window. Chopsticks are made, one by one, by scraping a piece of wood.
The thinness and the shape of the chopsticks are key to a successful
design. The tip and the base are made into an octagon, while thecenter part is made into a hexadecagon. This is the ultimate shape ofchopsticks, which has been developed through a desire to optimise
their functionality. The chopsticks with flat shape and eight sides
make it easy to pick up even small and unstable pieces of food.The
chopsticks of Marunao are also light. When you hold them they fit
comfortably in your hand. If you eat traditional Japanese dishes likesashimi using these chopsticks, you will know the real meaning ofJapanese cuisine, which places importance on the delicacy of picking

Marunao,chopsticks

up small portions of food.

—Marunao
http://www.marunao.com
1662-1 Yada, Sanjo-shi, Niigata prefecture
TEL: 0256-45-7001
Opening hours of shop: from 10:00 to 19:00
Factory tour: form 9:00 to 17:30

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

30

新潟市

Chopsticks are also good souvenirs of Japan among foreigners.

31

NIIGATA

醸す力で
ヒト・コト・モノがThe Power of Fermentation
Can Also Connect People, Events and Productsつながる『醸す（かもす）』とは、麹に水を加えて酒や味噌、醤油を作ること

soybean paste), natto (trans. fermented soybeans) are also made withを意味するが、他に、ある事態を作り出してゆくという意味もある。

that process. In technical terms, fermentation involves converting

新潟では、一つの会社や一つの店が独自の活動を行う他に、複数のmaterials by making good use of their various microorganisms. To

会社や店や地域が垣根を超えて力を合わせることにより、さらに魅make delicious food or drink by fermentation, it is important to

力的な活動を作り出している。それぞれの持ち味に、協力という名

consider and take advantage of the functions and merits of eachの麹を加えることにより、さらにその魅力が倍増されるという『醸microorganism. It is said that we are only aware of only five to ten

す力』を新潟市で見つけた。

percent of all the microorganisms that exist in the world. Thus the

燕三条地域の工場見学で日中を過ごした後、新潟のナイトライフを

power of microorganisms and their power through fermentation

楽しもうと日本海側の新潟市へと移動した。燕三条から新潟まではhave enormous potential. The same goes for Niigata-shi. There are

新幹線で約 12 分、車で約 30 分。古くから信濃川、阿賀野川の水運

residents who produce, cultivate, run shops and restaurants, work or

により、周辺の様々な物資が集まり、江戸時代からは北前船が立ち

who love the products and their hometown. They all have certain

寄る日本海側有数の港湾都市として繁栄してきた。日本海の魚、米、

functions and merits. If they work in harmony influencing each

野菜や果物、酒など、地域の豊富な食の魅力を楽しむことができる

other just like microorganisms work for fermentation, the town

エリアだ。また江戸時代、北前船の港町として賑わいをみせた古町

becomes more and more attractive. In this regard, the metaphor of

は、訪れる人をもてなす芸妓文化や料亭文化が発展し、京都の祇園、

fermentation encapsulates the power of Niigata-shi. After spending

東京の新橋と並ぶ花街と言われた。

the daytime at marvelous factories in the Tsubame-Sanjo area, wemoved northward to Niigata-shi, the coastal zone along the Sea of

Like other historical cities in Japan, the circumstances surrounding

The Power of Fermentation
Can Also Connect People,
Events and Products

Niigata-shi have drastically changed. Currently, Niigata-shi is focusing on their gastronomic culture as it is the leading sake producing
area in Japan. To make sake from rice, as well as to make wine fromgrape juice and to make bread rise, the process of fermentation isJapan, to seek gastronomic delights. To go to Niigata-shi fromthe Tsubame-Sanjo area it takes
about half an hour by car. If you
take Joetsu-Shinkansen, it takes

essential. Japanese cuisine would not be so delicious if our ancestors

only 12 minutes. Niigata-shi is known as a city of gastronomy with

had not learned the process of fermentation. Soy sauce, miso (trans.

fish caught in the Sea of Japan, rice, vegetables, fruits and sake. Fromthe 17th century to the end of the 19th century, when the methodof transportation was mainly by ship, Niigata-shi was prosperous
as a port city thanks to the Kitamae-bune (trans. northern-boundships) that visited. Kitamae-bune are merchant ships founded bya great merchant in the Hokuriku area. They carried various kindsof products that the merchants bought and sold at several ports.
Simply put, it was like a mobile market. It went from the north partof Japan such as Hokkaido and Tohoku, along the coast of the Sea
of Japan passing the Seto Inland Sea and the coast of the Pacific to
Osaka. People have always tended to gather where there is goodbusiness. The port city of Niigata was not the exception and wasvery prosperous. In particular, in Frumachi town there were many
restaurants where Geiko who were trained in traditional dancing,music and singing entertained customers, just like Gion in Kyoto.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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33

NIIGATAwhich make it clear what kind of food is offered. Elegant and highquality restaurants, however, do not have this. Here, too, most of
the doors of restaurants are closed and sometimes look so elegant
and unfriendly. This ticket allows them to show their warm and welcoming side by providing you with the opportunity to make a trial
visit.
Niigata is a leading producer of rice and sake. The sake lists are hugefrom nationally famous ones to the ones rarely seen outside Niigata.
Try the local sake first. It goes well with dishes cooked with the local
ingredients and local recipes.
A special sightseeing bus tour called the “Restaurant Bus” started in 2016
here in Niigata. The unique aspect of this tour is the double-decker bus
itself. These days, double-decker bus is not so rare. However, a doubledecker bus whose lower deck is converted into a fully equipped kitchen

新 潟 市を楽しむための
様々なイベント

is rather unique. The top deck is converted into a restaurant which

この地域の飲食店を巡って “ はしご酒 ” をする「古町花街ぶらり酒」

offers French and Italian dishes cooked with local ingredients freshというイベントが過去８回にわたって実施されている。４枚綴りのout of the kitchen underneath. Good restaurants are expected to have

チケットが付いたマップを購入し参加店の「ぶらり酒メニュー（料extravagant interiors, decorated with things such as gorgeous chandeliers

理１品、飲み物１杯）」を楽しめるというイベントで、期間内に最大or paintings. On the bus, the beautiful scenery of countryside in Niigata

４店のはしご酒が可能になる。2016 年の参加店は 80 軒。敷居が高embellishes the dining experience. The tour includes the visits to the

そうな店も、この機会を利用して気軽に覗いてみることができるの

places where ingredients used by the restaurant are produced, such asが嬉しい。

sake breweries and farmhouses. Some activities are also included. In

さすが米所、酒所の新潟は蔵元の数が日本一の県で、全国的に有名2017 the Restaurant Bus offers several courses from April to June.

な日本酒もあれば、県外ではあまりお目にかかることのない銘柄も

For the detailed information about each tour, the schedule and the

たくさんある。お薦めは地酒で、地元の野菜や魚介類を使った料理

reservation, take a look at http://willerexpress.com/en/restaurantbusにとても合う。

2016 年から期間限定で「レストランバス」を運行している。このバスの 1 階は、オーブンや電子レンジ、冷蔵庫などの調理器具を揃えたキッチン。2 階にはテーブルが設置され、乗客は見学した農家の食Niigata-shi’s
Unique Events

材を活かした料理や新潟の酒を味わいながら窓越しに見る風景を楽しむ。2017 年も新潟を楽しむレストランバスが運行される予定だ。

The event called “Furumachi Hanamachi Burari-zake” (trans. Barhopping in Furumachi, an old Geisha district) has been held annually over the past eight years. For this event, a map with four tickets
attached is sold. One ticket is for one drink and one dish. In 2016,
80 restaurants and bars were on the list of participants. Restaurants
in Japan are well known for the plastic food models placed outside

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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35

NIIGATA

発 酵の町「沼垂 （ぬったり）」 地 区

新潟駅から徒歩 20 分ほどのところにある沼垂地区は、新潟の港町
で米の積み出し港として栄えていた。昭和 30 年代後半、堀を埋め立てて作られた通りに、近隣の農家や魚屋が出店する市場が作られ、当時の店舗数は 100 を超えるほどに賑わいをみせていた。年号が平成へと変わり、大型小売店の郊外への進出により全国的に商店街の運命に影が差すようになった 2000 年代、ここ沼垂の市場も 1
日中シャッターが閉まっている店舗が多くなった。
しかし、2010 年頃からその様相が少しずつ変わり始め、寂れてしまっていた昭和の市場が、新しい文化という麹と出会うことで『醸し』が始まった。
昭和に建てられたトタン作りの店舗を改装し、新しく店舗を営む若者が現れ始め、「沼垂市場通り」は、2015 年に、昭和レトロな雰囲
気が残る、おしゃれで新しい『沼垂テラス』という商店街に生まれ変わった。カフェ、雑貨店、花屋、ジュエリーショップや工房、アトリエを始め、八百屋や肉屋もあり、散策がとても楽しい。
沼垂地区は古くから、発酵の町として、この地域の食文化を支えて

A Town of Richly
Fermented Culture

きた地域でもある。海風により、冬は寒く夏は暑いという気候が発酵には適している。町を流れる栗の木川（現在は国道）の両岸に酒and fishermen. It was like a local market. In 2000s the circumstanc-

蔵、味噌蔵、醤油蔵が立ち並び、原料や製品の運搬に川が利用され

es here have also changed. While the number of supermarkets has

た。最盛期の沼垂地区には、40 〜 50 の発酵食品関連の会社があり、increased, the number of small businesses in this area has decreased

現在は 6 軒。沼垂テラスから徒歩 10 分ほどの所にある、沼垂を代

resulting in empty, shuttered streets. However some changes have

表する酒蔵「今代司酒造」と味噌蔵「峰村醸造」を訪れた。

been seen since 2010, as new cultures appear along the old desolated
high street. Young artists have renovated the inner part of the old

The Nuttari area is located about 20 minutes on foot from Niigata

shops and started their own businesses. In 2015, this high street was

Station and was once a busy district as a port city receiving regularconverted into the street called “Nuttari Terrace”, where there arerice shipments. In 1960s the streets, developed on reclaimed moats,cafés, knick-knack shops, flower shops, jewelry shops, studios and at-were lined with over a hundred shops owned by neighboring farmers

eliers of artists, as well as vegetable and butcher shops. It has becomea district which is a lot of fun to explore. The Nuttari area has also
been known for supporting the food culture of Niigata by producing
food and drinks made through fermentation. The climate, cold withthe sea breeze in Winter and hot in Summer, is suitable for fermentation. Sake breweries, miso factories, and soy sauce factories once
lined up along the Kurinoki River, which has since been remodeled
into a national road, and the products and ingredients were transported by waterway. Once there were 40 to 50 factories and foodshops reliant on the fermentation process. Now only six remain,
including a sake brewery and a miso factory, which we visited, about
ten minutes walk from Nutari Terrace.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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37

NIIGATA今 代司酒造（いまよつかさしゅぞう）

明治時代に建てられた建物が今もそのまま残る今代司酒造では、いつでも酒蔵見学をすることができ、アメリカ人のスタッフもいるため、多くの外国人観光客の見学でも賑わっている。
創業は 1767 年。昆布や鰊などを北海道の松前から日本海を通って大阪へ運ぶ北前船が新潟に頻繁に寄港したため、当時は江戸よりも人口が多かったと言われているこの地で、明治初期まで酒の卸業や旅館業、飲食業を行っていたという今代司酒造が本格的に酒造りを始めたのは明治中頃。今代司酒造の建物は明治の頃を思わせるような木造建築。のれんをくぐり、蔵に一歩足を踏み入れると、時代を感じさせる看板や道具類が目に入り、酒を仕込むための麹の匂いが鼻をくすぐる。
映画の撮影でも使われるという立派な建物は完成されていないという。
「完成と同時に崩壊が始まる」という日本の木造建築の俗信に則っていて、歪んでいる部分もそのままにされている。この歴史ある蔵では、蔵人から今代司の酒造りを学びながら見学できる。
「お客様のための蔵見学なのですが、実は蔵人にとって “ 何のために酒造りをしているのか ” という根幹部分を再認識する良い機会となっています」と今代司酒造、代表取締役社長の田中氏は語る。今代司酒造は、老舗としての「守るべき伝統を守る」という務めの他に、常に新しいことに挑戦し続けることによって新風を吹き込む務めも果たしている。ＪＲ東日本の農業法人が生産した酒米を使い、新潟県
内限定販売の日本酒「新潟しゅぽっぽ」を他の蔵と協同で造ったり、新潟市の農家や飲食店とコラボし、米作りから酒の仕込み、提供方

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

38

39

NIIGATA

法までを考慮に入れた酒「おむすび」を造るなど、酒造りの枠を超restaurants. (cf: A rice ball is usually called in two ways in Japanese:

えて、地酒によって地域全体を結びつけることにより、新潟の魅力‘onigiri’ or ‘omusubi’, which are completely interchangeable. ‘Onigiri’,をさらに『醸し』ている。

grammatically speaking, consists of two elements: ‘o’ which is an

酒が貴重品だった頃、少しでも酒を多く売りたい酒蔵は水で薄めてexalted prefix which shows respect and ‘nigiri’ which means ‘grasping’.

出荷し、酒屋が消費者に販売する時にさらに水で薄めていた時代がOn the other hand, ‘omusubi’ consists of the same ‘o’ and ‘musubi’

あったという。そのように薄められた酒を「金魚が泳げるほど」薄
今代司酒造株式会社
田中洋介さん代表取締役社長

Mr. Yosuke Tanaka, president of
Imayotsukasa-shuzo

which means ‘connecting’. Now you know why Imayotsukasa Shuzo

いという意味で、『金魚酒』と呼ばれていた。そんな時代でも、今代chose the name ‘Omusubi’ for their sake!) And this is just the tip of

司酒造では決して酒を薄めることなく販売していたという自負から

the iceberg! Imayotsukasa Shuzo not only produces sake through the

作られた錦鯉をデザインしたボトルの酒『錦鯉』。日本のグッドデザ

fermentation process, but it also plays the role of a microorganism for

イン賞を始め、フランス、アメリカ、ドイツ、イタリア、イギリス、

the “fermentation” of the area, to make it a better place. When sake

ベルギー、香港で高い評価を受けた。

was more valuable, some breweries wanted to maximize their profit,̶

and so they diluted sake with water. As even sake dealers diluted their

今代司酒造株式会社

products, it got to the point where sake became so watery that goldfish

www.imayotsukasa.com
新潟県新潟市中央区鏡が岡 1-1

could stay alive in it! As a result, bogus sake was called “gold fish sake”.

TEL:025-245-3231

Imayotsukasa Shuzo made a series of sake in a bottle that looks like a

The very astonishing old building of Imayotsukasa Shuzo (trans.

beautiful nishiki-goi (trans. brocaded carp) to convey the message that

Imayotsukasa Brewery) made our hearts beat. Before this brewery

they have never made gold fish sake but more valuable “carp sake.”specialized in sake brewing in the end of the 19th century, the family

This bottle won Good Design Award in Japan and also won prizes in

was one of the leading merchants in the area that managed the sakeFrance, USA, Germany, Italy, UK, Belgium and Hong Kong. You must

dealer, inns and restaurants since 1767, when the town of Niigata

see Imayotsukasa Shuzo's showroom which showcases all of their sakewas prosperous due to Kitamae-bune. The wooden old building is said

products. You can also taste their sake. The brewery is open to theto be built in the Meiji Era (1868-1912). One step inside the building,public for the brewery tour. An English tour, provided by an American

passing through noren (trans. a vertical fabric hanging in front of thestaff member is available, but reservation beforehand is required.

entrance), you may feel as if you had travelled into the past. You will—

see an old signboard and old tools. You will detect the scent of wood

http://www.imayotsukasa.com/index_eng.htm
1-1 Kagamigaoka, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi, Niigata prefecture
TEL: 025-245-3231
Open from 9:00 to 17:00

Imayotsukasa Shuzo,
a sake brewery

and sake brewing. This perfectly preserved old building is also used asa set for film. However, Mr. Tanaka said that the building is actually
not completed. Following the Japanese traditional philosophy, “thecompletion is the beginning of the collapse,” the family is leaving theincomplete areas as they are. Among many traditional shops, that try
to protect traditions of old, Imayotsukasa Shuzo is always taking on thechallenge of new projects. For example, they made sake collaborating
1

with the agricultural corporation of JR East (railroad company) and「今代司は『金魚酒』ならず。威風堂々たる『錦鯉』」。
「新潟しゅぽっぽ」の包み紙裏面には地域情報を載せるという工夫も。

other breweries using only the rice harvested in Niigata prefecture
called “Niigata Shuppoppo” (cf: Shuppoppo is an onomatopoeia word
for the sound that a locomotive train makes). They also make sake

Various bottles of sake of Imayotsukasa Shuzo including the “carp sake”(left)

named Omusubi (trans. rice ball) collaborating with local farmers andBeyond Ordinary Itineraries

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1

NIIGATAり手の伝統を守り、後の世代に伝えてきた先祖の教えとともに、こ2
株式会社峰村商店
志村毅さん

代表取締役社長

Mr. Takeshi Shimura, president of
Minemura Jozoの常在菌も存在し続けて来たのである。
峰村醸造では、丁寧な説明をしてもらいながら味噌づくりの工程を見学できるが、全ての工程を見せてくれる味噌蔵は珍しい。味噌づ
くり見学とともに、味噌づくり体験もできる。味噌づくりの見学の前に食べてはいけない物は納豆だ。納豆菌はとても強い菌で、少しでも大豆に混ざると、味噌にならずに納豆になってしまう。このため、子供連れの家族を含め、誰でも味噌づくりの見学と体験をすることができるが、納豆を食べた人と納豆職人は例外である。
醸造の技術は発酵によって旨味を引き出すこと。峰村醸造では、味噌や味噌漬だけではなく、長年培われた醗酵・醸造の技術と経験を応用し、出汁、酢等の発酵・醸造から生まれる調味料も取り扱っている。江戸後期から明治初期に建てられた土蔵の内部をリノベーションして作られた直売店で、ゆっくりと試食しながらのショッピ
ングも楽しい。
̶
株式会社峰村商店
http://www.minemurashouten.com
新潟県新潟市中央区明石 2-3-44

TEL:025-247-9321

A traditional basic Japanese style meal consists of rice, miso soup and峰 村 醸造pickles, which is like the Western staples foods: potatoes (or bread), meat

明治 38 年創業の味噌蔵。最盛期の沼垂地区には、40 軒以上の醸造

and salad. Miso soup is made simply by dissolving miso in boiling water,

蔵が軒を並べていたものの、現在は 10 軒以下と少なくなった。こwith dashi broth added, mainly made with kombu (trans. dried kelp) orの厳しい状況の中、峰村醸造は、今代司酒造とともに沼垂地区を醸

katsuo-bushi (trans. bonito fish flakes). Tofu (trans. bean curd) cut in

造の町として蘇らせようと力を尽くしている。この地は、日本海か6

small cubes, and various kinds of vegetables, clams or seaweed are popular

ら吹く北風にさらされる冬は寒く、夏は高温多湿になる。この気候によって微生物の働きが活発になり、発酵食品を仕込むには最適なのだ。味噌は 30 度を超える日が 1 ヶ月以上ないとできず、創業当時は、温度が上がるように神に祈り、仕込んだ味噌を置いておいたと志村さんは言う。それほど暑い日が続くとは、当初抱いていた新潟＝雪国のイメージが崩れる。
峰村醸造を経営する峰村商店、代表取締役の志村氏は、「味噌は、大豆と塩さえあれば出来る」と言う。
「手前味噌」という言葉が存在しているように、昔は、味噌をつくる家庭も多かった。煮て柔らかくした大豆を潰し、米麹と混ぜて寝かせる。しかし、原料の大豆の種類、米などの大豆の他に用いる副原料、麹などの微生物、そして仕込み方によって味は変わってくる。峰村醸造の味噌つくりに欠かせないのは、歴史ある峰村醸造の建物の天井についた常在菌。つく2Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

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NIIGATAingredients. With all these flavors in mind, what then is miso? In short, it
is fermented soybean paste. Miso was something indispensable for homecooking, and it used to be eaten every day in one way for another at home.

併設するショップでは麹を使った様々な商品を扱っている。

The interior of the historical building
was renovated into a shop.

Miso can be used as sauce and as a base for pickling and marinating, foralso various products made with koji that have been inoculated withfermentation process. They are available in their shop, which is in ahistorical building built at the end of the 19th century.

example. As the production process is simple, it was once made at home.

—
Minemura Shoten

Soak soybeans in water, and then boil and mash them. Add water andhttp://www.imayotsukasa.com/index_eng.htm
2-3-44, Akashi, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi, Niigata prefecture TEL: 025-247-9321

salt, and stir the paste continuously. Crumble koji (trans. steamed ricethat has koji mold cultivated on) and mix well until the texture becomessmooth. Put the paste into a container and wait for 6 to 12 months, while
it ferments. If you have seen miso sold in a shop, you may have noticed that
there are various types of miso in different colors, from whitish ones toblackish ones, whose taste is also different. Whitish ones tend to be mildand sweet, on the other hand, blackish ones tend to be salty and strong.
This difference comes from various factors: the type of koji mold, theamount of salt added and the length of fermentation. Miso differs by who
makes it and the area in which it is developed.
Minemura Jozo, the miso maker, was founded in 1905. As the climate ofthis area is cold in Winter with an onshore breeze and hot and humid in
Summer, the conditions are advantageous for fermentation. As a result,
there used to be more than 40 factories in which alcoholic beverages
and food were made through the fermentation process in the Nuttariarea during its golden era. Sadly, the number of these factories decreased
according to the change of times and people’s lifestyle. Minemura Jozo,
together with Imayotsukasa Shuzo, is trying to rehabilitate this area as“Town of Fermentation”.
Mr, Shimura, the president, gave us a tour to show us the processes of miso
making. This factory is also open to the public. Visitors can also try miso
making and can bring the miso that they make back home as souvenir. Any

Minemura Jozo
-miso factory-

visitors can go on this tour of miso making process, save for those who haveeaten natto or who work at natto factories. Natto is a food made throughthe fermentation process with microorganisms called Natto-kin (trans.
grass bacillus), which are very strong bacterium. If the miso as a paste
comes in contact with this microorganism, even just a small amount, it will
be converted to natto!
“What we do is to educe umami (trans. savory taste) through fermentation
process,” says Mr. Shimura. Minemura Jozo produces not only miso andmiso regarded food such as pickles and foods marinated in miso, but

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NIIGATAThe Tsubame-Sanjo area, Niigata city
in Nigata prefecture— Niigata in your pockets

One Day Trip
to Tsubamesanjo by Joetsu Shinkansen
INVITATION to TSUBAME-SANJO
Tsubame-Sanjo is a historic and world-famous place for its metal
products in the Niigata prefecture. Several factories are always open for
visitors, in which you can see how excellent products are made by artisans.
The manufacturing process, the spirit of artisans towards their creations,as well as the beauty of the finished products will captivate you.

TIME SCHEDULETIMESCHEDULE

07:48 Tokyo Station（東京駅）

TRANSPORTATION

Joetsu Shinkansen Max Toki 305（上越新幹線 Max とき）

09:45 Tsubame-Sanjo Station（燕三条駅）

Gyokusen-do, a hand-hammered copper ware factory

JR Yahiko Line（JR 弥彦線）
10:05 Yahiko Station（弥彦駅）
Walk (10 min.)10:15 Yahiko Shrine（弥彦神社）
Walk (10 min.)
11:00

Mt. Yahiko（弥彦山）
Ropeway Station

Ropeway
11:30 Mountaintop of Mt. Yahiko
Ropeway
12:30 Mt. Yahiko Ropeway Station
10.1km Taxi (18min. 3,400 yen)
Lunch at Ramen restaurant,
13:00
Koshu Hanten（杭州飯店）
2.2km Taxi (6min. 700 yen)
14:00 Gyokusen-do（玉川堂）
12km Taxi (23 min. 4,000 yen)
15:30 Tadafusa（包丁工房タダフサ）
Tadafusa, a knives factory

6.1km Taxi (15 min. 2,000 yen)

Ramen (Koshu Hanten)

16:30 Marunao（マルナオ）
10.1km Taxi (20 min. 3,500 yen)
18:24

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Tsubame-Sanjo Station（燕三条駅）

20:12 Tokyo Station（東京駅）

Joetsu Shinkansen Max Toki 342（上越新幹線 Max とき）

One Day Trip to Tsubamesanjo by Joetsu Shinkansen

WHAT TO SEE■Yahiko Shrine（弥彦神社）
A historical shrine which is said to be founded in 717 but was burnt down in 1912.
Current building was built in 1916. The deity worshiped in the shrine is believed
to have divine power for prosperity and success in business.
2887-2 Yahiko, Yahiko-mura, Nishi-kanbara-gun（西蒲原郡弥彦村弥彦 2887-2）
TEL: 0256-94-2001

RESTAURANTS■Mt. Yahiko（弥彦山）
A very beautiful holy mountain (634m). The view from the mountaintop isbeyond description, especially at sunset. (Ropeway: 1,400 yen for a round trip)
There is a restaurant at mountaintop.
■Gyokusen-do, a hand-hammered copper ware factory（玉川堂）
A Hand-hammered copper ware factory with 200 years of history. A very
interesting factory tour in which you can see all the process including the hand
hammering by artisans is a “must”. You can also purchase beautiful products at a
showroom.
2-2-21 Chuo-dori, Tsubame-shi（燕市中央通 2-2-21）
TEL: 0256-62-2015
Factory tour: 8:30-17:30
Closed on Sundays and National Holidays■Tadafusa, a knives factory（包丁工房タダフサ）
Various kinds of knives are displayed like art works in a modern designed
showroom. A factory tour is also available. (Reservation required.)27-16 Higashi-honjoji, Sanjo-shi（三条市東本成寺 27-16）
TEL: 0256-32-2184
Factory tour : 10:00-11:30,13:30-16:00
Closed on Sundays and National Holidays■Koshu Hanten（杭州飯店）
The most popular ramen restaurant among the locals. It offers ramen of seabura type,which is the specialty of this area. Pork back fat is cooked for a long time until it melts,
and is then sprinkled on top of the ramen, where small pieces stay afloat, to enhance theflavor of the soup. It seems heavy but it tastes amazingly lighter than it looks. This typeof ramen was invented to keep the soup hot during the delivery to factories.
49-4 Tsubame, Tsubame-shi（燕市燕 49-4）(10 min. walk from NishiTsubame Station)
TEL: 0256-64-3770
Lunch 11:00-15:00
Dinner 17:00-20:20■Totoya（魚屋）A casual Japanese restaurant which is popular among the locals. Dishes with locallycaught fish and fried big oysters are recommended.
850-8 Kamisugoro, Sanjo-shi（三条市上須頃 850-8）
TEL: 0256-33-6673
Lunch 11:30-14:30
Dinner 17:30-22:30

TIME TABLES• Time Table of Joetsu Shinkansen (as of March, 2017)
From Tokyo
07:00, 07:48
08:24, 08:52
09:12, 09:28, 09:52 (only weekends
and holidays)
10:16, 10:40, 10:56■Marunao, a chopsticks factory（マルナオ）
Fine and svelte chopsticks of highest quality are displayed in the cool and simple
boutique-like shop. In the factory you can see how craftsmen work through a glass
window.
1662-1 Yada, Sanjo-shi（三条市 矢田 1662-1）
TEL: 0256-45-7001
Factory tour : 09:00-17:30
Closed on Sundays (Only factory tour is closed and shop is open all year round.)

From Ueno
07:06, 07:54
08:30, 08:58
09:34, 09:58 (only weekends andholidays)
10:22, 10:46

From Tsubame-Sanjo
17:01, 17:27 (only weekends and holidays), 17:35, 17:56
18:24
19:08, 19:19 and 19:29(only weekends and holidays), 19:48
20:32,19:55 (only weekends and holidays)
21:47, 21:47 (only weekends and holidays)-Time Required: 2 hours-Fare: (Tokyo-Niigata) 9,280 yen (Basic fare: 5,080 yen + Express fare: 3,680 yen +Seat reservation: 520 yen)
*From Ueno, 210 yen cheaper

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NIIGATAThe Tsubame-Sanjo area, Niigata city
in Nigata prefecture— Niigata in your pockets

Two-Day Trip
to Niigata by Joetsu Shinkansen
INVITATION to NIIGATA
Niigata-shi, from 17th century to the end of 19th century, used to be aprosperous port city thanks to Kitamae-bune (northern-bound ships),
which carried various products that merchants bought and sold at theports on the way from Hokkaido to Osaka. Now, it is known as a city ofgastronomy with locally caught fish, rice, fermented food and sake. In
Furumachi town there were many restaurants where Geiko who weretrained in traditional dancing, music and singing entertained customers,
just like Gion in Kyoto.

Nuttari Terrace Street

TIME SCHEDULE [DAY 1]

TIME

SCHEDULE

07:48 Tokyo Station（東京駅）

TRANSPORTATION

oetsu Shinkansen Max Toki 305

09:59 Niigata Station（新潟駅）
3.3km Taxi (15min. 1,000 yen)
10:30 Hotel* -Leave luggage
9.3km Taxi (20min. 3,000 yen)
Furusato Mura（新潟ふるさと村）
11:00 -River Shinano Water Shuttle
Riding（信濃川ウォーターシャトル）
Water Shuttle

Pier Bandai

Minato Pier（みなとぴあ）-Lunch-City History Museum

12:00（新潟市歴史博物館）-Former Bank Building（旧第四銀行住吉町支店）-Old Customs Office（旧新潟税関庁舎）

1.6km Walk (20 min.) Taxi (6min. 600 yen)
Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewer

Furumachi area（古町界隈）
16:00 -Town strolling-Dinner in Furumachi area

Minemura Jozo Miso Factory

22:00 -Hotel
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Two Day Trip to Tsubamesanjo by Joetsu Shinkansen

WHAT TO SEE■Minatopia Niigata City History Museum（みなとぴあ新潟市歴史博物館）
Minatopia shows the coastal city's relationship with water and features fourbuildings: the three-story City History Museum, which was constructed to look
like the second Niigata City Hall, built in 1911; the former Customs House; areconstructed warehouse and a former bank building. The exhibition rooms in themuseum are beautifully curated with a use of dioramas. Displays include irrigation
canals, the growing of rice, area maps, early settlements, rivers, historical andcurrent photos and today's trade with other cities. (An audio guide in English andan English brochure are available.) Outside, the well-maintained grounds include
canals, which create the atmosphere of the time when many of Niigata's streets
were canals.
2-10 Yanagishima-cho, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区柳島町 2-10）
TEL: 025-225-6111
Open 9:30-18:00, Closed on Mondays
Fee: 300 yen (City History Museum)

RESTAURANTS■Minato Shokudo（新潟鮮魚問屋 港食堂）
A historical Japanese restaurant (founded in 1877) inside the Pier Bandai market.
Rice bowl with raw fish is recommended.
2-4 Bandaijima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区万代島 2-4）
TEL: 025-248-8655
Lunch: 11:00-15:00
Dinner: 17:00-21:00■Furumachi area（古町界隈）
One of the historical city centers of Niigata where many traditional restaurants andshops are located. Strolling on narrow streets is enjoyable.

WHAT TO DO■Porto Cave d’Occi（ぽるとカーブドッチ）
A French restaurant in the former bank building in the facility of Minatopia. It ismanaged by a local winery called Cave dʼOcci established more than 20 years ago
to make French style wine with locally grown Japanese grapes,
2-10 Yanagishima-cho, Chuo-ku,（新潟市中央区柳島町 2-10）
Niigata-shi
TEL: 025-227-7070
Lunch: 11:30-16:00
Tea Time: 11:30-16:00
Dinner: 17:00-21:00■Kappo Kanetatsu（割烹 金辰）
A traditional Japanese restaurant where you can see traditional dance performanceof Geiko while eating.
*Reservation required.
9-1535 Nishiborimae-dori, Chuo-ku, Nigata-shi（新潟市中央区西堀前通 9 番町 1535）
TEL: 025-222-4808
Lunch: 11:30-14:00
Dinner: 17:00-22:00■River Shinano Water Shuttle Riding（信濃川ウォーターシャトル）
Cruising to see the town from the river.
Fee: 1,100 yen from Furusato-mura（ふるさと村）to Minatopia（みなとぴあ）. (Time
Table from Furusatomura: 11:00, 13:00, 15:00)
Afternoon Cruise and Sunset Cruise (25min.) from late March to late November
are also recommendable. 1,000yen (Boarding place: Toki Messe)（朱鷺メッセ）
TEL: 025-227-5200■Kiguchi（喜ぐち）Izakaya (casual Japanese restaurant) which offers local dishes from sashimi of
locally caught fish to curry flavored fried chicken.
10-1720 Furumachi-dori Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区古町通 10 番町 1720）
TEL: 025-224-9075
Opening hours: 18:00-3:30■Minato-sushi（港すし 古町本店）
The oldest and the best sushi restaurant in Niigata founded in 1933.
9-1454 Furumachi-dori Kyubancho, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区 古町通 9 番町 1454）
TEL: 025-222-3710
Lunch: 11:30-14:00
Dinner: 17:00-22:30

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NIIGATATwo Day Trip to Tsubamesanjo by Joetsu Shinkansen

TIME SCHEDULE [DAY 2]TIMESCHEDULE

WHAT TO SEE

TRANSPORTATION

09:00 Leave Hotel (Check Out)
1.5kmWalk (15 min.)Taxi (6 min. 600 yen
Villa of Saito Family
10:00 （旧齋藤家別邸）
Hakusan Shrine（白山神社）■Hakusan Jinja (shrine)（白山神社）
The most important shrine in Niigata, dedicated to the multi-tasking god of
marriage, purification, and uniquely, teeth. (Chopstics sold in the shrine have been
said to cure toothaches!)
1-1 Ichibanboridori-cho, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区一番堀通町 1-1）
TEL: 025-228-2963

3.1km Taxi (10 min. 1,000 yen)
12:30

■Old Villa of Saito Family（旧齋藤家別邸）
A house of a wealthy merchant constructed in the early 20th century. You will see
how prospered the port city of Niigata used to be.
576 Nishiohata-cho, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区西大畑町 576）
TEL: 025-210-8350
Opening hours: 9:30-17:00 (summer 18:00)
Closed on Mondays, Fee: 300 yen

Pier Bandai（ぴあ万代）Lunch andshopping in fish market
1.2kmWalk (12 min.)Taxi (5 min. 400 yen)

Nuttari area（沼垂地区）-Strolling
14:00 Nuttari Terrace Street■Pier Bandai（ピア万代）
One of the biggest markets along the coast of Japan Sea where local foods suchas seafood, sake, fermented food are available. There is also a Japanese seafood
restaurant which is recommended for lunch.
2 Bandai-jima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区万代島 2）
TEL: 025-249-2560
Opening hours: 9:00-22:00（沼垂テラス商店街）

600m Walk (7 min.)Imayotsukasa Sake Brewery（今代司酒造）15:00 or
Minemura Jozo Miso Factory（峰村醸造）■Nuttari Terrace Street（沼垂テラス商店街）
A renewed old high street where a hundred shops owned by neighboring farmers
and fishermen used to be in 1960s. Now there are cafés, knick-knack shops, flower
shops, jewelry shops, studios and ateliers of artists, as well as vegetable and butcher
shops. A district that is fun to explore.
Each shop has its own opening days and hours, but many of them are closed on
Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Morning market/Winter Market is held on the 1st
Sunday of every month.
Nuttari-higashi, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区沼垂東）

3.8km Taxi (13 min. 1300 yen)
17:00 Hotel to take luggage
3.3km
Taxi (15min. 1,000 yen)
17:44 Niigata Station（新潟駅）
Joetsu Shinkansen Max Toki 348（上越新幹線 Max とき）

19:52 Tokyo Station（東京駅）■Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery（今代司酒造）
An old sake brewery founded in 1767 in an old wooden building built in Meiji Era(1868-1912). An English tour provided by an American staff member is available.
(reservation required)
1-1 Kagamigaoka, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区鏡が岡 1-1）
TEL: 025-244-3010
Opening hours: 9:00-17:00■Minemura Jozo Miso Factory（峰村醸造）
Founded in 1905. A factory tour to see all the processes including miso making by
yourselves is available.
2-3-44 Akashi, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区明石 2-3-44）
TEL: 025-250-5280
Opening hours: 11:00-18:00

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NIIGATARESTAURANTS■Benkei（弁慶）
A Kaiten Sushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant inside the Pier Bandai market
where you can eat sushi of locally caught fish at reasonable price.
2-4 Bandai-jima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区万代島 2-4）
TEL: 025-255-6000
Opening hours: 10:30-21:00

TIME TABLES

From Tokyo
07:00, 07:48
08:24, 08:52
09:12, 09:28, 09:52 (only weekends
and holidays)
10:16, 10:40, 10:56■Jizakana Kobo（地魚工房）
Literarly meaning local caught fish labo. A casual Japanese style seafood restaurant.
2-1 Bandai-jima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区万代島 2-1）
TEL: 025-244-6181
Opening hours: 9:30-15:30

ACCOMMODATIONS• Time Table of Joetsu Shinkansen (as of March, 2017)

From Niigata
17:23, 17:44
18:12, 18:56, 18:56 (only on weekends
19:07 (only on Sundays and holidays), 19:35
20:20
21:34

(Furumachi Area)■Italia-ken（ホテル イタリア軒）
1574 Nishibori-dori 7bancho, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区西堀通７番町 1574）
TEL: 025-224-5111-Time Required: about 2 hours-Fare: (Tokyo-Niigata) 10,570 yen (Basic fare: 5,620 yen + Express fare: 4,430 yen+ Seat reservation: 520 yen)
*From Ueno, 210 yen cheaper(Riverside Area)■Hotel Okura Niigata（ホテルオークラ新潟）
6-53 Kawabata-cho, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区川端町 6-53）
TEL: 025-224-6111■ANA Crowne Plaza Niitaga（ANA クラウンプラザホテル新潟）
5-11-20 Bandai, Niigata-shi（新潟市万代 5-11-20）
TEL: 025-245-3333■Hotel Nikko Niigata（ホテル日航 新潟）
5-1 Bandai-jima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi（新潟市中央区万代島 5-1）
TEL: 025-240-1888(Station Area)■Hotel Mets Niigata（ホテルメッツ新潟）
1-96-47 Hanazono, Chuo-ku（新潟市中央区花園 1-96-47）
TEL: 025-246-2100

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries

From Ueno
07:06, 07:54
08:30, 08:58
09:34, 09:58 (only weekends andholidays)
10:22, 10:46

56

57

NIIGATAACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

主催／経済産業省関東経済産業局
協力／レ・クレドール ジャパン

Contents & WEB
全体監修／阿部 佳（グランド ハイアット 東京 コンシェルジュ、
明海大学ホスピタリティ・ツーリズム学部教授）
編集／鳥山祐加子（株式会社料理通信社）
文章／西園寺 怜（Team Mercurius）
写真／ Hide Urabe

Book
編集／堀江由利子
アートディレクション・デザイン／ ampersands
校正・校閲（日本語）／有限会社 西進社
印刷・製本／株式会社八紘美術

Project Sponsor/Kanto Bureau of Economy, Trade and Industry
Cooperation/Les Clefs d Or Japan
Contents & WEB
Supervision/Kay Abe, Concierge (Grand Hyatt Tokyo),
Professor (Meikai University)
Editor/Yukako Toriyama, Ryori Tsushinsha Co., Ltd.
Writer/Rei Saionji, Team Mercurius
Photographer/Hide Urabe
Book
Editor/Yuriko Horie
Art Director/ampersands
Proof Revisions (Japanese)/Saishinsha, Ltd.
Printing/Hakkou Bijyutsu Co., Ltd.

Beyond Ordinary Itineraries
The Tsubame-Sanjo Area, Niigata City in Niigata Prefecture“NIIGATA”
日本の魅力 発見プロジェクト〜新潟県 燕三条地域、新潟市〜※本プロジェクトは、経済産業省関東経済産業局が実施する「平成２８年度地域とホテルコンシェルジュが連携した、新たなインバウンド富裕層獲得のための支援事業」と連携して、グランド ハイアット 東京
コンシェルジュ 阿部佳氏のアドバイスを得て実施しています。

This project is supported by the Kanto Bureau of Economy, Trade and Industry.