Greyhound Owner’s Manual

Greyhound Pets of America
Greater Northwest“GPAGNW”

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INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on adopting a Greyhound! You may not realize it, but it is really a privilege to own
one of these regal dogs. The Greyhound is an intelligent, adaptable dog. Each has his own distinct
personality and ability to adjust well to a new life as a companion. The Greyhound is raised with lots oflitter mates and kennel companions to compete with, but now he loves being the center of attention!
This dramatic change in routine places a strain on the Greyhound, just as it would anyone. You mustallow him time to adjust to his new surroundings. A quiet Greyhound may become fretful. A goodeater may become reluctant to eat. A perfectly housebroken one may have an accident. Give him time
to become settled and do not press the panic button at any odd behavior during the first few days.
You will be surprised at how quickly the Greyhound becomes attached to you, and what a difference
your presence makes to him.
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Page 3 Chapter 1 – Out of the Box
Page 3 Supplies
Page 4 Introducing Your Greyhound to Other Pets
Page 5 Feeding Your GreyhoundPage 6 Your Greyhound and the Outdoors
Page 7 Introducing Your Greyhound to the Home
Page 7 Chapter 2 – T he Straight-away
Page 7 The Adjustment Period
Page 8 Housebreaking
Page 9 Crate Training
Page 9 Greyhounds Like Routine
Page 10 Greyhound Body Language for “I Need To Go Outside!”
Page 10 Still Not Housebroken
Page 10 Separation Anxiety
Page 11 Your Greyhound and Children
Page 12 Your Greyhound and Making Friends With You
Page 12 Hound Proof Your Home
Page 13 Veterinary Care
Page 14 Chapter 3 – Taking the Turns
Page 14 Insecticides and Other Toxins
Page 15 Little Things – Big Problems
Page 15 Care and Grooming
Page 16 Chapter 4 – Crossing the Finish Line
Page 16 Tattoos
Page 16 In Closing
Page 17 Contact Us

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CHAPTER 1 – Out of the Box
Supplies: When you adopt your new Greyhound, you will be provided with a muzzle, collar, 6-foot leash, the Greyhound’s
health records and rabies tag, and a GPAGNW identification tag (which must be kept on your Greyhound at all times).
There are also some items that you may want to consider purchasing, you may want to do so before you get your new
family member, or immediately following the adoption. You can purchase these items at your local pet store or online
sales.
The items you will NEED are as follows:• Collar – a martingale or Greyhound collar, will be provided by GPAGNW. This type of collar is essential forwalking your Greyhound on lead because Greyhounds’ heads are smaller than their necks. A Greyhound collar
will tighten just enough to hold your dog without letting him slip his lead or choke. Fancy, handmade collars areavailable online. Please see our links page for some suggestions.

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Dog Coat – Due to their short hair and lack of body fat, Greyhounds get chilled at low temperatures. You should buy
a jacket made especially for Greyhounds, due to their deep chests. For an inexpensive alternative, an XXL
sweatshirt with sleeves rolled up a bit and the waistband tied up over their backs also works well. The rule ofthumb is, if it’s cool enough for you to wear a coat, your Greyhound should wear one too.
Ask your adoption representative for suggestions on where to purchase coats. Greyhound Manor Crafts offers freepatterns for just about anything Greyhound! Boots, coats, costumes and more can be found on their site –www.Greyhoundmanor.com.

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Dog Bed – Because they have such a low body fat content, Greyhounds need a soft place to sleep. Be sure thebed is large enough (42” – 52” diameter). Many people use old comforters or quilts. A blanket on top gives themsomething to paw on and “nest” in Greyhound habit.

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Bowls – One bowl for food and one for water. If you find your Greyhound eats so quickly that he chokes, you
may want to add warm water to the kibble, or use a “slow feeder” (easily found at pet and online stores), or turn asmaller non-tip bowl upside down within a larger bowl (spread the food in the ring surrounding the center), or evenconsider using a flat pan. Any of these will make it more difficult for your Greyhound to eat food too quickly.

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Food - A good quality DRY food! The food you choose should have no less than 21% protein and not more than
12% fat content. It is better not to feed a corn-based food. Corn has been known to result in allergies and hot spots
in some Greyhounds. Good meat-based foods, ie. chicken are available at your local pet store. As a rule of thumb,any dog food purchased at a grocery store is unacceptable. Purchase the food at a pet store.

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Grooming - Hound grooming glove, Zoom Groom, or dog grooming brush. This will pull out your Greyhound’sdead hair and reduce shedding.

The following is a list of items you MAY need or want to buy for your Greyhound:• Crate – At least 40” long, 27” wide and 30” high. Many hound owners use the crate as a training aid, as aplace to confine their Greyhound when they are out of the house for short periods of time (before they become
comfortable with the Greyhound’s behavior in their absence) and as a “safe haven” for the Greyhound. Many
Greyhounds need this security, as they are used to being crated at the track. GPAGNW has crates available forrent or loan.

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Toys – Toys are an absolute necessity, especially for young dogs. If they have lots of toys to choose from, theytend not to chew on things they shouldn’t. Some favorites: stuffed animals, old socks tied with a knot, etc.

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Bones – All dogs, including Greyhounds, have a need to chew. It satisfies a natural desire in them and helps relievetension and anxiety. Dogs can become rather possessive over bones, so if you have more than one dog, watchthat they do not start a fight over one. Rawhide bones: buy only white bones and avoid the “knotted variety”. Tanor brown rawhides are treated with chemicals. Don’t get bones that are too small. Greyhounds enjoy beef chews.
Give pig’s ears sparingly; they are fatty and can cause diarrhea. Raw knucklebones from the butcher are goodbut do not cook them, they may splinter! Chewing them will help remove tartar from the teeth. Gums may bleed forthe first few times, but this will soon stop.
• NO pork bones (sharp)• NO small bones from steaks (can lodge in the throat) or small round bones• NO COOKED BONES of any kind (splinter)3

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Pooper Scooper or Plastic Bags – Use to pick up after your pet on your walks or in the yard. THIS IS THE LAW.

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Enzyme Cleaning Solution – For example: Nature’s Miracle, for cleaning up those “accident” spots andodors.

Introducing Your Greyhound to Other Pets: Your Greyhound should get along well with other medium to large sizedogs as he has had lots of socialization in the kennels. If you have cats, the Greyhound that GPAGNW recommended foryou has been cat tested. This is not a guarantee by any means! Although your Greyhound may have been found to becompatible with small animals at his foster home, we recommend constant supervision initially, as the reaction of your
Greyhound to your small animal may evoke a different response. We HIGHLY recommend that you follow theaccompanying directions (below) when introducing your Greyhound to your current pets.

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Muzzle – Please use the muzzle we have provided if you have small dogs and/or cats. Muzzling the Greyhound is
NOT cruel. They have been wearing a muzzle for as long as they have been wearing a collar. Greyhounds
who have never seen a small dog may initially think the little dog is something that should be chased and caught.
The Greyhound simply does not know better. With strong verbal reprimands from you (and a few from the little guy
as well) the Greyhound will quickly learn who’s the boss. Until you teach him to behave properly around the small
animals, keep the muzzle on. In addition, the muzzle is a good training tool for those Greyhounds that may
have a slight chewing problem.

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Dogs – Introduce your new Greyhound to your other dog(s) on neutral territory. With leashes on, havethem meet on the sidewalk or down the block from your home. Let them greet each other and then take them for awalk together. When you arrive back home, walk them around your property (leashes still on) and then bring theminto the house. Be careful and watchful the first few days to make sure the pecking order is established without
undue power struggles or injuries. And, supervise them at feeding time until you’re sure each dog knows which dishis his.

•Birds – Do not allow your bird to fly loose in the house while your Greyhound is inside. Make certain your birdcage issecure. If your Greyhound should knock the cage over, you want to make sure he cannot get it open.

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Cats – Introduce your Greyhound to your cat indoors with the Greyhound muzzled and leashed. Hold the leash in yourhand. Leave the cat on the floor. Do not force your Greyhound to the cat and likewise for the cat.
Look for the following signs of possible aggression:• Teeth clicking or snapping• Alert ears, although by itself this merely could indicate curiosity• Fixed gaze or stare which cannot be broken even when you run your hand in front of the
Greyhound’s eyes
• Trembling and/or lurching
A Greyhound that accepts a cat indoors will not necessarily apply the same rules of behavior outdoors. Be very
careful if you allow the cat and Greyhound outside at the same time. Greyhounds are sight hounds and their
instincts will take over. Greyhounds being the fastest breed of dog are fast enough to catch a cat. The cat may
not even know the dog is after it until it is too late, as Greyhounds do not bark - even while chasing. Always keep
in mind that though your Greyhound may accept your cat, his acceptance may not apply to your neighbor’s cat.
The safety of your neighbor’s cat, or a stray passing through, could be in jeopardy.

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Separation – GPAGNW recommends that your Greyhound and smaller members of your pet family be separated
when you are not at home or cannot supervise their interaction. Watch them carefully when they are interacting.

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No chase – Never let your Greyhound chase any of your small animals, even in play. Play can turn to hunt in a
flash and no cat or small dog is fast enough to get out of the way of a determined Greyhound.

•Feeding – Feed your cats/dogs in separate areas. You can feed your Greyhound in his/her crate. Always
reinforce the pecking order in your house at feeding time. The top animal or “alpha” should always be fed, or given
treats, first. Then the second, and so on.

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Cat Food and Litter Boxes – Greyhounds find cat food irresistible. Find a high place to keep the cat’s food.
Greyhounds (as most dogs do) also love the little snack logs they find in the litter box. This is a very nasty habit.

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Invest in a hooded cat box, you can even turn it toward a corner to give the cat more peace.
If you have any questions or are not sure if you are reading the warning signs correctly, please call GPAGNW immediately,
we will be happy to help work you and your Greyhound through this transition.
Feeding Your Greyhound: In retirement, your Greyhound does not need the ultra-high protein foods. In fact, this has
been found to be a source of problems, not only with Greyhounds but also with most breeds of dogs. The high protein/highfat dog foods are also high in calories. Calories provide energy and for the average pet who just lies around most of theday, these calories serve no useful purpose except to make him overweight or give him more energy than he has proper
outlets to expend. Thus. the dog expends his energy in unacceptable ways such as chewing, being too excitable or not being
housebroken. With age, the excessive protein can also be hard on the Greyhound’s kidneys. If you are having any of thesetypes of problems, check the ingredient list on the dog food and consider changing it to something lower in protein and fat.
The following are the guides for feeding:•Strenuous exercise – There should be NO strenuous exercise 1 hour before and 1 hour after a meal. Strenuous
exercise can induce bloat.

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Type of food – Use a high quality dry dog food that you can purchase from a pet store! Avoid any one that isunder 21% protein or over 12% fat. Avoid any food that is red in color, there is a chemical in the red dye that
Greyhounds do not tolerate well. Avoid the soft or moist type and any that make a gravy. The amounts of salts,sugars, and chemical preservatives in the dog foods that are soft, moist or chewy and/or with gravy would startle
you. Any of these can cause itchy skin, result in lack of stool formation or some behavior problems such asdifficulty in being housebroken or being too active. Bottom line, aging Greyhounds cannot tolerate unnecessary
additives.
Grocery stores carry lower grade foods that use corn as a filler. The first few ingredients on the bag should notcontain byproducts or corn. You can add 1/2 cup cooked vegetables and a cooked egg once in a while. buttermilk,
cottage cheese, or yogurt once a week will help keep the gut healthy. Vitamins, garlic supplement (specifically forcanines), brewer’s yeast, cod liver oil, Missing Link, salmon oil or DermCaps will ensure a healthy dog with a niceshiny coat.
Most Greyhounds have gas. If your Greyhound has more than you think is normal, try switching to a different food.
Be aware that constantly changing your Greyhound’s brand of food will add to the problem.
Although lamb-based foods are considered easy to digest, for the Greyhound straight off the track, lamb tends to bea little rich as their systems are not used to it. Try chicken-based foods first and switch to lamb, if you must, after
your Greyhound’s system has a chance to adjust to its new diet.
Many Greyhound owners swear by natural diets, including raw bones, meats and vegetables. There are some
excellent diets along these lines, but you should educate yourself on them before you try them on your Greyhound.

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Weight Feeding Guide – Each brand and type of dog food has recommended feeding guides, please follow
the feeding instructions. Usually 3 to 5 cups daily is sufficient. You may feed once or twice a day. If you choose
to feed all of the food in the evening, you may want to give your Greyhound a couple of biscuits in the morning.
You should always be able to see a bit of rib (1 to 3) on a Greyhound. Also, there should be an area that indents
between the ribs and the tail. A Greyhound should never look like a sausage! Allowing your Greyhound to gain too
much weight can create health problems. Their bone structure cannot support extra pounds. The more excess
baggage a dog has to carry around, the less it wants to move and the chunkier it becomes. The rule of thumb is 5
pounds over their racing weight.
If your dog needs to lose weight, decrease the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for 2
to 3 weeks until the dog reaches a “fit” weight. Remember, do not change the type of food, just the amount.
Increasing the dog’s exercise by 15 minutes a day will also help.
If your dog needs to gain weight, increase the amount of food by a quarter of a cup per feeding and observe for
2 to 3 weeks. The desired weight gain should take place.

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Table Scraps – Never, but never feed the Greyhound off the table while you are eating. They will soon takeyour place in the chair! If you would like to feed table scraps, GPAGNW recommends reserving table scraps
and putting them on the Greyhound’s food. Only a small amount should be used at each feeding.

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Fresh Water – Fresh water should always be available.

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Eating Too Fast - Greyhounds tend to inhale their food. They take mouthfuls and swallow without chewing. If
you are using a large chunk dog food your Greyhound may very well choke or vomit after eating. We recommend
covering the dry kibble with warm water as it helps ease the food down your Greyhound’s throat.

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Stool Eating (Ick!) - If your highly refined Greyhound tends to engage in the practice of stool eating, your bestsolution (of course) is to keep the area clean. Also, try moistening their normal food with pineapple juice a coupleof times each week.

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Dandruff – Greyhounds get dandruff easily. A tablespoon of coconut, or corn, or canola, or flax seed oil on theirfood at each meal will aid in keeping their skin moist and less flaky. However, sometimes this gives Greyhounds
excessive gas or diarrhea; if so, try half a tablespoon at each meal instead.

Your Greyhound and the Outdoors: Greyhounds, because they are sighthounds, can see up to a quarter mile or more
away. The sight of a small animal (rabbit, squirrel, chipmunk, etc.), paper bag or leaves blowing in the wind can send your
Greyhound into a full run at 45 miles per hour. In no time he can be a few miles away and you will not realize he is evengone. Also, unexpected noises like firecrackers, motorcycles, loud cars, trucks or buses can startle and panic the unleashed
Greyhound. He may take off and become lost and/or get killed by a car.
It cannot be stressed enough that exercising your Greyhound off leash in an area that is not entirely enclosed is asking for adisaster to happen. Your Greyhound may be entirely devoted to you and never leave your side at home, but you must
remember that this pet is the product of centuries of specialized breeding to produce a lightning fast hunter. The
Greyhound has been bred to scan the horizon and run after anything that moves. A paper cup blowing across the street
could mean your dog’s death. This is not about disobedience! The explosive hunting run is instinct. Once your Greyhound is
focused in on a moving object, he is running on pure instinct and no longer hears you. The car driving down the street does
not expect to see a 45 MPH blur of a dog - bounding after the paper cup - crossing in front of it. DON’T TAKE THE
CHANCE.
GREYHOUNDS SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON A LEASH OR IN A COMPLETELY FENCED AREA WHEN OUTDOORS!
Greyhounds are HOUSE DOGS and should never be left out in hot or cold temperatures. Their short coat, lack of body fat
and thin skin can cause them to overheat in summer and become chilled in winter. Greyhounds are very susceptible toheatstroke in the summer. In the winter, we advise that you make or buy a heavy lined coat to use when the temperaturedrops below 32 degrees fahrenheit.
If you are fencing your yard for your Greyhound, the fence should be a minimum of 4 feet. Greyhounds are not jumpers, but
the exception may require a taller fence.
NEVER leave your Greyhound unattended in a fenced yard unless you are home to keep an eye on him. Many are stolen,
mistreated, and/or sold to research labs.
NEVER put a Greyhound on an overhead run or tie them to a stake or a tree, as they can take off running at 45 MPH froma dead stop. A broken neck, leg or possibly death can result.
If your Greyhound becomes overheated in the summer, do not allow too much water at one time. Give small amounts andadd Gatorade or unflavored Pedialyte - mixed one to one with the water.
Do not chase your Greyhound if he gets off the lead and will not come to you. Stop, bend down, call his name, and clap
your hands. If he does not respond, turn and walk away - still calling his name. Break into a slow run and he should
respond. Make every effort to get him to come to you and do not reprimand him when he does. Running is a big gamefor him and if he can get you to chase him, this is even more fun! Have a squawker on hand and the dog will likely
respond.
In retirement, the Greyhound needs no more exercise than any other breed of dog. If you love to see him run, please doso in a fenced in area, but please do not overdo. Running during the adjustment period helps relieve stress. Long walks
or jogging work just as well.

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When you walk your Greyhound, use the 6-foot nylon leash and collar you received from GPAGNW. Some Greyhounds
are not accustomed to doing their business on a lead and it may take a while for them to become used to this new
system. Do NOT use retractable leashes!
Remember to gradually work your Greyhound up to distance running. They are only accustomed to running about 1/4 mileat a time. The Greyhound is a sprinter, not an endurance runner, and in both cases the muscle involvement is different.
Take care in the beginning not to overdo jogging or walking on concrete until your Greyhound’s muscles and pads
become used to it.
Introducing Your Greyhound to the Home: We recommend you plan to be home with your Greyhound for a few days
after he gets home. For those who work, schedule the “take home day” on a Friday, or when you have a couple of days off.
You will be able to get to know him, teach him what is okay in your home, and help him become a member of the family alittle faster. Remember, once he gets to your house, it will be the first time in his whole life he hasn’t had lots of other
Greyhounds around him at all times. Being left alone the first few times can be a little scary. If possible, it’s best to work him
into being left alone during the first few days, so when he is left alone for longer periods of time (like when everyone goesback to work or school) it isn’t quite a shock to his system.
After allowing a little time for outside exploration, take your Greyhound inside the house. You may want to introduce him to
the house on lead. Let him explore the house a bit, with you at his side. This will allow you to begin effectively setting
those ground rules! Keep an eye on him and if there are any signs of him planning to relieve himself in the house, tell him“NO” in your best mean mommy/daddy voice. Not a soft no, but a loud, sharp “NO”. If he relieves himself in the house,
immediately take him outside. An abrupt “NO” and being led outside a few times should be sufficient.
Watch him very closely the first few days, reinforce the house rules consistently, and you will be off to a great start with yournew friend.
You may want to keep your Greyhound in your bedroom with you at night with the door closed for the first few nights.
This will usually settle the dog down quickly and help you both get a good night’s sleep (although the first night is often aless than restful one!). This method works best because it allows you to hear when the dog becomes restless, a sign hemay need to go outside and relieve himself. The first night or two may be somewhat stressful for the Greyhound, andhe may whine, pant, pace, and generally do all kinds of stuff that will keep you awake. A quiet word of reassurance willusually settle him down. Although the first night or two might be a little rough, they seem to adapt much more quickly ifthey are allowed to be near you at night. Your Greyhound might feel more comfortable in a crate for the first few nights,
until his anxiety subsides and he is no longer restless.
A few Greyhounds will initially have what we call “sleep space aggression” when they first move into their new homes.
They have always slept in a kennel environment and are not used to anything or anyone touching them when they are
asleep. For that reason, a Greyhound may wake with a start, and even growl or snap if startled by touching while asleep.
Make sure the Greyhound is awake before touching him. Remember, Greyhounds can and do sleep with their eyes
open! Say the dog’s name loudly, clap your hands, and make enough noise in some manner to ensure your Greyhound isawake before touching. Always, always, always teach children to say the dog’s name loudly and get a response before
touching the Greyhound.
For a couple of reasons, we don’t recommend that you allow the Greyhound to sleep in bed with you. First is thepossibility of sleep space aggression. If you are asleep and accidentally roll over on the dog, it could result in a very
tense situation. Second and more important, while Greyhounds are very sweet, easy-going dogs, they need to rememberthat they are the dog in the family and that the people are the leaders of the “pack”. After you have established with the
Greyhound who the authority figures are in the home, and you feel confident that you do not have a dominant dog thatwill continually challenge you for leadership, letting him on the furniture (including the bed) is up to you. Until that time,save yourself and your pet a lot of trouble and confusion; let him be a dog and stay on the floor. When there are children
in the home, the dog should NOT (under any circumstances) be allowed on the furniture or in anyone’s bed.
CHAPTER 2 – The Straight-away
The Adjustment Period: It is now time for you to go to work and turn this bewildered racer into a content and loving
house pet. The adjustment period can last from a matter of days to a matter of months, depending on the Greyhound.
Sometimes they will be fretful, whine, and pace. They may refuse to eat and drink. Be patient and kind. This will pass.
• Full Length Mirrors – Greyhounds have been known to stare at themselves for long periods of time. The
television is also interesting.

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Glass Doors – “Ouch my nose” is not uncommon. Show him the door. Gently press his nose against it. Pat itwith your hand so he can see that it is solid. Decals, sticky notes or masking tape in an X can help make theglass visible.

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Trash – Keep all trash under the counter with the cabinet door closed or in a very tightly covered container.
Greyhounds are very clever at opening things when they want what is inside of them.

•Window Blinds and Draperies – Always raise your blinds up or open the drapes so that your Greyhound can lookout the window. When you leave him alone he will want to look for you! If he cannot see out the window, then he
may tear down the blinds or drapes so he can see you!
NEVER ENCLOSE YOUR GREYHOUND IN A ROOM WITH THE DOOR CLOSED. When you comehome, you may find a hole in the wall or floors scratched (almost) beyond repair. Use a baby gate if you plan tokeep your Greyhound confined to one room while you are not home.

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Stairs - Teaching your Greyhound how to walk up and down stairs is really pretty easy. Remember that this is new
to your dog and you have to be patient and persistent. Do not force your Greyhound up or down the stairs by
dragging him by the collar. If pushed into doing the stairs, he may become so frightened that he tries to jump all theway down and might break a leg. Encourage but do not coddle. Greyhounds can read our facial expressions soremain calm and smile them through this.
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Let your Greyhound lean against your legs. Start at the bottom stair and grip the Greyhound’s collar. You
may need to put the Greyhound’s front lets on the step.
Start your walk up the steps still holding the collar. You can encourage your Greyhound by saying “come on
let’s go up”. If your Greyhound does not respond, get behind and put the rear legs on a step. Slowly
alternate the front and rear legs up the stairs.
You are now at the top. Praise your Greyhound and let him relax for a few minutes.
Grip the collar again and start down the same way.
Praise again when you reach the bottom.
Go through this up and down sequence at least one more time.
If your stairs are not carpeted, make sure your Greyhound’s nails are as short as possible so they do notslip on the steps.
If your stairs are the open-backed type or very steep, allow your Greyhound a little extra time to learn these.
If you find that your Greyhound is not voluntarily following you up and down, repeat this exercise each day
for the next few days. Within a short period of time, your Greyhound will fly up and down the stairs.

Housebreaking: Most Greyhounds are very easy to train. They have been crate trained and so they don't “go” in the area
they consider their kennel. However, they have never been inside a house. And they are used to being let out up to six
times a day to relieve themselves in a fenced-in pen.
For the first few days when you get your Greyhound home, make sure you take him out often, stay with him and praise
him effusively when he goes. He'll catch on very quickly that outside is where he does his thing. Try to establish a set
routine that your new Greyhound can learn, and a word or phrase that your new Greyhound can identify and respond to,such as "Do you want to go out?". You will notice, if you watch carefully, that within a few days your Greyhound will adapt to
his new routine, and also start giving you "signals" when he needs to be taken outside.
If you want to train your Greyhound to relieve himself in a particular area of the yard, now is the time to begin thistraining. Take him to the pre-determined area each and every time he must relieve himself for the first week or so,
praising profusely each time the desired action occurs. Soon your dog will only relieve himself in this area. Remember,consistency and abundant positive reinforcement is the name of the game.
Having An Accident – If your dog has an accident in the house, and you are right there when it happens, give him a sharp,
verbal reprimand. Promptly take him outside, wait with him until he goes, and then praise the dickens out of him when hegoes in the right place! Do not hit your dog or try to put his nose in the accident, your Greyhound will respond more
quickly and more positively to kindness.
If your Greyhound is a male, he may attempt to lift his leg in a few places around the house to “mark his territory”,
especially if you already have a dog. He is making the house HIS house, so he feels more at home. Watch him carefully as
he walks or sniffs around the house the first few hours and days and try to catch him before he does it, so you can8reprimand him verbally and strongly. If this should happen, it does not go on for long, so be patient.
Greyhounds are very clean dogs by nature. If your Greyhound has any type of accident, rather than blame the dog,
look for the reasons why it happened. He either wasn’t taken out early or often enough, or not allowed enough time to fully
relieve himself.
Remember, a dog which has fully relieved himself has nothing left in his bladder to make an accident on your rug. Also
remember that your new Greyhound does not have any way to tell you he needs to go out. He is used to a set routine,where someone came and got him and put him outside in a turn-out pen.
Cleaning an Accident - Pet stores have lots of solutions to help make cleaning up after your dog easier. Purchase one, like
Nature's Miracle, before bringing your Greyhound home.
Prevention - Prevention is the best solution to any house-breaking problem. For the first few days, it's a good idea to walkor let your Greyhound outside in a fenced yard more frequently than you ordinarily would - as often as every couple of hours.
This teaches your Greyhound where his new home is and where he is supposed to “go” and helps relieve the tension of a
strange place, thus preventing accidents.
It is very common in their first few days for Greyhounds to drink a lot more water than they would normally. They do thisbecause they are nervous about being in an unfamiliar place. All this drinking, plus being nervous, means they will need togo outside more.
Crate Training: The use of a crate gives your Greyhound a clear sense of where his special place is in the new home.
It helps eliminate any temptation such as investigating the garbage when you are away or strewing the dirty clothes in the
middle of the living room, just to remind themselves of you while you are gone. Crating a dog is NOT cruel or unusual
punishment. With most of the Greyhounds we place in homes, the crate system works out for the best. Racing Greyhounds
spend a good portion of their lives in their own kennel crates. Some Greyhounds do not particularly like their crate. Timeand patience will be necessary during this time, as they may bark and whine. Use of a crate does not have to be apermanent thing. It can be used for the transition phase and if no longer needed, and if you choose to keep it, leave thedoor open so that your Greyhound may use it as a place to go for some quiet time. A crate is a good training tool. If your
Greyhound does something which isn’t acceptable behavior, putting him in his crate for a brief period can help curb theundesirable behavior.
Again, never put your Greyhound in a closed room. We have known people who have tried to isolate their
Greyhound in a room behind a closed door. Greyhounds are very powerful and have been known to scratch throughdoors, scratch holes in walls, scratch holes through carpet, tear down blinds and drapes, shred everything in sight, etc.
Basically the crate is your best method of preventing problems when you are away. Older Greyhounds typically require
the use of a crate for a lot less time than younger ones. Some Greyhounds will need the use of a crate permanently,
just to keep them out of trouble. Curiosity can kill a Greyhound and destroy a home. Greyhounds are raised in crates andare very comfortable with them. Therefore, crate training can be the most effective way to housebreak your Greyhound.
The basic principle is that Greyhounds are very clean and most will not eliminate where they sleep. The following are thebasics of crate training:•••

Crate size – The appropriate size for most Greyhounds is at least 40” long, 27” wide, and 30” high.
Location – Place your crate in a room that is familiar to your Greyhound, where the Greyhound spends the mosttime when he is with your family. A remote location such as the basement or a room that is far away from family
activity can make your Greyhound feel as if he has been abandoned.
Rule – If you cannot watch your Greyhound, crate him. Be alert and do not let your Greyhound out of your sight
until you are confidant he is housebroken.

Greyhounds Like Routine: Feed at set times, walk at set times, and let your Greyhound out to do his business at set
times. Initially, do not vary your schedule, even on the weekends. At a minimum, your Greyhound should be let out firstthing in the morning, first thing when you arrive home, last thing before you go to bed, and immediately after eating.
Feed the same food all the time. Do not vary the diet; do not feed an overabundance of between meal snacks (limit to 2
small treats a day). Watch your Greyhound’s stool. If it is too loose, cut back on the amount of food by 1/4 cup per feeding
until it becomes firm. You can also try adding 1/4 cup cooked white rice to the food.
Take your Greyhound out on a regular schedule. Take him over to a designated potty area. All dogs like to relieve
themselves in familiar surroundings. After your Greyhound goes potty – PRAISE! If your Greyhound does not relieve
himself outside after 10-15 minutes, confine him to his crate for another 30 minutes and then take him back outside. If your
Greyhound still does not relieve himself after 10-15 minutes, confine him again for another 30 minutes.

9Once your Greyhound does urinate and defecate outside, you can give him some freedom in the house. Keep an eye on him
until you are confident that your Greyhound is completely housebroken. Do not let your Greyhound out of your sight. If you
cannot watch your Greyhound, crate him, until you are sure he is completely “potty trained”. If you catch your Greyhoundin the act of an accident, loudly say “NO!” or “STOP!” Take him immediately outside to his toilet area. When your Greyhoundfinishes, PRAISE!
Clean the accident area with an effective cleanser to remove the scent of urine or stool from the carpet or floor. We
recommend any good enzyme cleaning solution such as Nature’s Miracle.
If you are having trouble house training your Greyhound, make sure that he is not sick. Worms or urinary tract infections
can interfere with housebreaking, but they can easily be cured!
Greyhound Body Language for “I Need to Go Outside!”: Greyhounds were never taught as puppies how to scratch at
the door to ask to go outside. They have always had somebody tell them when it’s time to “go”. Some of the signs that a
Greyhound needs to go outside are as follows:
•
•
•
•
•
•

pacingwalking in circles
walking to the door and looking back at you
standing by the door
listlessness
barking

When your dog indicates a need to go outside, respond immediately. Do not wait for the next television commercial.
Still Not House Broken?: Having trouble with accidents in the house? Review this checklist carefully and see if there issomething you are not doing. Call us if you need more information or advice.
1. Are you keeping your pet confined when not at home and within your sight when you are at home?
2. Are you letting him out after meals and at the appropriate times?
3. Are you feeding your Greyhound at the same time every day, measuring his food with a measuring cup to
ensure accuracy, not overfeeding, keeping snacks to a minimum, and not giving table scraps?
4. Is everyone in the family cooperating with the housebreaking effort?
5. Are you adding to your Greyhound’s confusion by punishing him?
6. Are you certain your Greyhound is not sick (worms? Urinary tract infection?) and needs to be examined by aveterinarian?
7. Are you removing the scent of your Greyhound’s urine and/or stool from the affected area?
8. Are you going outside with your Greyhound so that you know whether or not he has relieved himself?
9. Are you praising your Greyhound when it eliminates outside?
Separation Anxiety: It is extremely important to remember that your Greyhound has never been left alone before. He's
either lived on a farm with lots of dog friends or lived in a crate in a kennel with about 40 dogs. So, if you must leave him
at home - ALONE - he's may be frightened and/or confused. This can produce a condition termed separation anxiety.
Some of the signs your Greyhound will exhibit are: constant panting, pacing, restlessness, crying, loss of appetite,
housebreaking problems, and barking in his crate. In most cases, these symptoms disappear within a couple of days as
your Greyhound begins accepting you and the family as his new pack. Practice leaving your Greyhound for a few minutes
at a time. Don't make a big deal about leaving (if he thinks you're going someplace and having more fun than he is,then he'll definitely be upset!) and just leave for 15 minutes at first. Don’t make a big deal about coming back home!
Increase your leave to a few hours. He'll get the idea that you're coming back, and his anxiety about you leaving him
forever will be eased.
We have seen cases where a Greyhound continued having problems with separation anxiety. Sometimes
Greyhounds become so attached to their people that they become anxious when left alone. This is usually evident byhousehold destruction or inappropriate elimination. The crate can really help prevent these problems. Buy, rent or borrow acrate, just for the first few weeks. Remember your Greyhound has always lived in one, so it's very familiar. It can be used tomake the transition from racer to pet more quickly. Here's the routine: For the first two weeks, the Greyhound is placed in
his crate when left home alone. Then, when he knows the family routine, he is again placed in the crate -- but thedoor is left open, giving him the choice. After a couple weeks of this, the crate can be returned and a happy house petexists.

10

We have had Greyhounds try to destroy their crate trying to get out. Muzzles worn inside the crate may help with thisproblem. Hopefully you will not experience any of these separation anxiety problems with your new Greyhound. But
be aware that it does happen. Be patient with your Greyhound; he cannot help being distressed in your absence. Be
consistent with your routine. This helps the Greyhound adjust easier. Praise your Greyhound. Positive reinforcement
gives your Greyhound the confidence to tolerate longer periods alone. NEVER punish your Greyhound as this makes him
even more anxious because he does not connect the punishment with the undesirable behavior. When your Greyhound isalone in your home, leave on a radio or T.V. for “company”.
Your Greyhound and Children: Greyhounds are one of the best breeds at coexisting with children. Gentle, affectionate
and even-tempered, the Greyhound is great with kids. However, even the docile Greyhound has its limits. Children who
have not been taught how to handle pets or who are simply not old enough to understand, have been known to pull tails,
bite ears, poke eyes and sit upon the back of a Greyhound. Two things can happen if a child mistreats a dog. The dog
may at some point become fed up and defend itself, or the dog will become afraid of the child. The Greyhound is no exception.
Prevention is best. Please teach your children how to treat this gentle, loving creature and protect the Greyhound fromoverbearing children. Above all else, children of any age and any dog should never be left alone unsupervised.
Anything is possible at any time with any dog!!
Most Greyhounds have never been around children and therefore have no reason to dislike them. The more appropriatequestion is: Does your child/children know how to behave with animals? The following are some simple rules to ensure
a happy relationship:•

LET SLEEPING DOGS LIE – do not jump on or even pet a sleeping Greyhound. Some Greyhounds sleep with theireyes open. When a sleeping Greyhound is startled, it may growl or come up with teeth before it is fully awake
and realizes that the culprit is his best friend. If you must wake your sleeping Greyhound, call his name and have
him walk to you.

•

Privacy and Quiet – all dogs are entitled to privacy and quiet when they eat and sleep. Children must be
instructed to not bother your Greyhound during its “quiet” times. This has to be consistently enforced.

•

Food – Do not let your child take away your Greyhound’s food or interfere with its mealtime in any way. You may
want to feed your Greyhound in its crate to avoid a problem.

•

Bones – Do not let your child take a bone away from your Greyhound. If the children do not understand the ideathat this bone is strictly your Greyhound’s and not a toy to be taken away, then do not let your Greyhound have
any type of bone while the children are present.

•

Hanging On – Do not let your child/children hang on the dog’s neck or climb on its back. Greyhounds can be injured
or feel threatened.

•

Door Bolting – Make sure you have a hold of your Greyhound by the collar before any door is opened to let yourchild’s friends in/out of your house.

•

Open Doors and Gates – Be extremely cautious about leaving doors and gates open (this goes for car doors
also). Greyhounds move so quickly that they will be out the door and down the street in the blink of an eye.
Teach your children and their friends about the importance of keeping doors and gates closed at all times.

•

Kindness – A child old enough to have a dog is old enough to treat it with kindness.

•

Crate – Do not let your children crawl into the Greyhound’s crate. Privacy is important. Initially we recommendthat you utilize the crate when your children are actively playing. It is also a good idea to use the crate whenchildren have friends over to play. This way your new Greyhound has a chance to experience and becomeused to children while in the safety and security of his crate. You will find the crate to be invaluable to keep
your Greyhound and children separated when you cannot be there to supervise their interaction. Just as you would
never leave a toddler or infant alone unsupervised, children of any age and any dog should never be left alone
unsupervised.

•

Movement – Greyhounds do not understand the meaning of a child(ren) rushing, crawling, running up to him
or trying to kiss or hug him, when he is lying down (even if he is awake!). A Greyhound may choose to getup and walk away, do nothing, growl, or he may even snap or bite.

11•Playing Outdoors - Outdoor games with your Greyhound should be closely supervised, especially initially anduntil both child and dog are fully introduced. No dog, and especially no Greyhound, can be expected not tochase after an excited, squealing child. And sometimes the Greyhound's idea of fun is to play "imaginary
hunter" using the child as a lure. Being run down by a large dog would hardly be classified as fun by most kids!
Instead, encourage your child to join you as you stand in place and happily encourage your dog to come to you,with each person taking a turn. This provides exercise for the dog and reminds him that all people are incontrol - large or small. The main rule to keep in mind concerning children and dogs is easy - safety first. Thisapplies to both the dog and the kids. Do not ever leave young children and dogs alone together.

•

Toys - Greyhounds often steal children’s stuffed toys. This is a compliment to the child, as the Greyhound wants tohave something with them that smells like the child. Sometimes the Greyhound will take other toys such as plastic
ones that seem to be irresistible to chew. Use a sharp verbal reprimand to teach the Greyhound what is not
appropriate chewing material.

Parents who feel their children are too young to be taught how to treat an animal properly should wait until the children
are older before they bring a pet into their home.
Your Greyhound and Making Friends – With You•

Setting Limits - You'll probably go out of your way to make your new pet comfortable in his new home. Of course,
you want him to like his new environment and love you in return. Spoiling is okay, up to a certain point. Set therules for your Greyhound the minute he arrives at your home. Don’t allow him to do things that are not acceptablejust because you “want to give him time to settle in”. Treat the dog with love and respect, but firmly enforce therules of his new home. Failure in this regard could allow habits to develop now which may be difficult to correct
later. Have you ever met a spoiled child? Bratty, bossy and totally unpleasant to be around. You don't really wantyour Greyhound to turn out like that. Animals, just like children, need limits set for them. Consistency and clarity
about what's acceptable behavior and what's not and knowing that you're in charge are key to a good transition foryour Greyhound. Throughout the dog's life, he's relied on someone to set boundaries for him. First his motherlaid down the law, and the puppy quickly learned that as long as he followed the rules, life was great. The
leadership role was transferred to humans as your Greyhound left his litter and began his training. Although he
was exposed to lots of new experiences and places, there was one constant factor he could rely on -- there
was always a human to tell him what was good and what wasn't. Every dog needs this reassurance.

•

Be The Leader - A dog without a strong leader (alpha dog) quickly becomes a bratty, overbearing animal that no one
wants to live with, and therefore the dog suffers without the one thing he needs most, acceptance and a place inthe pack. You are that leader, so act like one. Be firm and fair, and you'll have a dog you can take anywhere andbe proud of.

•Discipline - Greyhounds are so smart and react well with positive reinforcement. This means praise and hugs when
they do what you want. They'll know you're happy, and they'll continue to try to make you happy. When you need to
discipline, and it must be done while the 'bad' incident is occurring (like peeing in the house, chewing on
something they shouldn't, barking, etc.), use your voice - not your hand. Lower your voice to a growl, get his
attention (I grab his muzzle and make him look me in the eye) and tell him "no" or "bad" and then leave him alone fora bit. He will be so chastised that he may never do it again. If he does, you escalate the level of your voice, and beeven more forceful that you mean it. It really is like dealing with kids, some of them will ignore you until they think
you really mean it. Occasionally, new Greyhound pet owners fear reprimanding their pet because they think the dog
won't like them. Unfortunately, these are the adoptions that have problems several months later. After 2 to 4
weeks of no reprimands, he might not react well to you suddenly trying to get him to pay attention to what you
want.
Plan to keep a balance from the beginning, being fair and consistent. These dogs don't want to be bad, they
really, really want to please you. So, get into their heads, understand why they are doing what they are doing, anddon't cater to every whim every time. In the long run, it's better for your pet and you. Remember you have a new
family member, not a house guest!

Hound proof Your Home: Greyhounds love soft things; stuffed toys, shag rugs, rolls of toilet paper, paper towels andespecially the nice soft sofa or bed – they are the greatest! A good rule, if you do not want your Greyhound on the bed or
furniture, then don’t ever allow it. Allow him his own chair, couch, bed, or rug. If you find your Greyhound on the couchor in your bed, gently tell him “no”, clip on his leash and remove him from the furniture. Take him to his own resting area.
Do not shut your Greyhound away from you at night. Allow him his own place beside your bed. He wants to be near you!

12

Greyhounds love to look and see what’s on that counter. Greyhounds need to be taught that it’s not acceptable toinvestigate a counter too closely. If the dog shows a little too much interest in the counter, a sharp “no” and sometimes anaccompanying clap of the hands works well. Never leave breakable items, food, or potentially poisonous items on tables orcounters when your Greyhound is unattended. Remember your Greyhound is a dog and some things are too tempting even forhim.
Greyhounds are also known to be interior decorators. They will move pillows, stuffed animals, and the like from one
place to another. They may even take books off your shelves. Greyhounds also like to rearrange their own beds (we callthis nesting). Expect them to turn around from between 3 and 50 times in the process of getting comfortable to lie down!
As puppies, Greyhounds are raised, in the first few months, with shredded paper in their beds. When their paper is changed
every few days, it’s a big party. As a result, Greyhounds view paper products – newspapers, magazines, paperback books,
hardback books, etc. – as toys which are there to be shredded. If you leave any of these items lying about, they figure
you’ve left it out for them to SHRED!
Greyhounds and open doorways do not mix. It is very important that doors (not leading to fenced areas) are never left
standing open. To a Greyhound, an open door is a written invitation to go investigating. We recommend that prior to
opening any door, you get a hold of your dog by the collar. This also helps assure that when visitors arrive, an over
exuberant pup does not greet them. If you have small children, PLEASE set ground rules immediately that only adults
may open doors. Apply this same logic to yard gates, etc. If you have a yard gate, please consider placing some kind oflock on the gate so that it isn’t inadvertently left open.
A linoleum or tile floor can be a challenge for your Greyhound. They have never been on any type of slick flooring, so thistoo could be a learning experience. When a Greyhound begins to slip, their natural inclination is to grab with their nails.
Unfortunately, all this does is have them walking around on the tips of their nails – not conducive to navigating a slick floor;
they just slip that much more. If your dog tends to slip and slide his way across the floor, try putting rubber backed scatterrugs on the floor. Don’t make a solid path of the rugs; instead leave spaces in between for him to start getting the feel ofwalking on the smooth floor. When he appears to be comfortable with that arrangement, begin increasing the spaces
between the rugs and removing rugs as his ability increases. If you feed him in a kitchen with slick floors you will beamazed at how quickly he gets comfortable with it!
Veterinary Care: GPAGNW has had your Greyhound neutered/spayed, teeth cleaned and provided its initial one-year
vaccinations, including rabies. Your Greyhound has also been wormed and treated for parasites such as ticks and fleas.
You have been given the veterinarian records for your Greyhound, as well as an information packet for yourveterinarian. Your vet may need to call the GPAGNW vet if s/he is not familiar with retired racing Greyhounds.
Remember, your Greyhound has been in environments that are not familiar to some vets.
Finding the right veterinarian to care for your new Greyhound is essential. Greyhounds are sensitive to many types of
medications. It is very important your vet understands the physical and physiological differences of Greyhounds. Check withyour vet to make sure s/he knows that some drugs normally used on dogs cannot be used on Greyhounds. Specifically,anesthetics. The wrong type or dosage can kill a Greyhound. Don’t be afraid to ask questions of your vet, or to find anothervet if you have concerns. If your vet objects to your questions, find another vet. It’s your Greyhound’s life at stake!
GPAGNW can help you choose a vet who is familiar with ex-racers!
A couple of things you and your veterinarian may notice about your Greyhound:• Scars – these are common with Greyhounds as they have thin skin and may have banged into another Greyhoundon the track, or scratched themselves on a fence, etc. In time, your Greyhound’s hair will grow and cover mostscars.
• Bald spots – this is not a skin problem. Due to the Greyhound being kept in a crate, the hind-end hair may be
rubbed away. This is called “crate rub”. This hair may or may not grow back. However, rubbing vitamin E on thebald area sometimes stimulates hair growth. Most of the time, just putting your Greyhound on a good quality dry dog
food will result in regrowth of hair in bald areas.
The following are areas of caution for Greyhounds:• Bloat – All large chest cavity dogs are susceptible to bloat. Simply, bloat is a rapid build-up of gas in thestomach/chest area. The stomach/chest area twists and significantly reduces the air intake. If this occurs your
Greyhound will lie down and gasp for air. He may also pace continuously. If this should occur, you haveapproximately thirty (30) minutes to get him veterinary care. Bloat can be avoided by not allowing strenuous
exercise before and after eating and not allowing your Greyhound to gulp water excessively.

13•Anesthesia Sensitivity – If your Greyhound needs surgery in the future, please note that Greyhounds are very
sensitive to anesthesia. Certain types of anesthesia and ways of administration can kill your Greyhound. Please
discuss the special anesthesia needs with your vet and feel comfortable with how s/he addresses these issues orchange vets. Encourage your vet to consult with a Greyhound-friendly vet if they need additional information.
GPAGNW will be happy to recommend one of our vets – call us for a name!

•Ticks – Tick diseases are becoming more common in all dogs. If your Greyhound experiences any of thefollowing, and all other causes have been eliminated, tick disease could be the problem.
o High fevero Depression or lethargyo Anorexia
o Anemiao Diarrhea or constipationo Loss of appetite or loss of body weighto Vomitingo Nose bleeds, skin hemorrhage or any other unusual bleedingo Swollen legs or lymph nodeso Nervous system disorders; stiff gait, head tilt, seizures or twitchingo Pale gums and/or inner eye membranes
o Retinal Hemorrhageo Arthritis

There are four tick borne diseases that can be the cause of these symptoms. They are Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis,
Babesiosis, or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. The only way to confirm if your Greyhound may have a tick-borne
disease is through a blood test. We recommend that your veterinarian draw at least 3 cc of blood in a syringe, place
in a separate tube, spin it down and keep it refrigerated until mailing. Then mail it to the following lab for a full tickpanel testing.
ProtaTek Reference Laboratory
574 East Alamo Street, Suite 90 - Chandler, AZ 85225(602) 545-8499•

Diarrhea – diarrhea can happen with any dog. Some of the common causes of diarrhea are overfeeding; dietchange; table scraps; cat food; stress; grass; and garbage picking. All of these can be controlled, and care should
be taken to avoid them in the future. The following is a simple schedule to combat diarrhea:
1. Consider withholding food for 24 hours (only!) but encourage water intake to avoid dehydration!
2. Give your dog either imodium or kaopectate at the child dosage, once.
3. Boil and shred boneless, skinless chicken or drain the fat from cooked ground hamburger, cook whiterice. After everything has cooled, make a mixture of 1 cup rice to 1/2 cup meat for each feeding, twice aday. The mixture should be served at room temperature. The amount of food can be increased if thediarrhea stops.
4. Once the dog has firm stool for two consecutive days, you can begin to introduce their regular food into
the mixture. The introduction should be gradual – typically do not increase by more than 1/2 cup of regularfood.

If the diarrhea persists for two days, or you see blood in the stool, contact your veterinarian!
•

Osteosarcoma – Osteosarcoma appears to affect large breeds of dogs, not just greyhounds. Reported
predisposed breeds include Boxers, Doberman Pinschers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, Great Danesand many more.
There are numerous treatment options for dogs (and greyhounds) with OSA. The standard of care is limb
amputation followed by chemotherapy (4 to 6 doses, depending on the drug). Dogs treated by amputation
alone live 3 to 4 months, whereas dogs treated by amputation and chemotherapy can live 14 to 18 months.
Most greyhounds undergoing chemotherapy DO NOT HAVE SIDE EFFECTS and adjust to being a “tripod”
very shortly after amputation.

For more information about Osteosarcoma in greyhounds please visit www.greyhoundhealthinitiative.org/sarcomas/
CHAPTER 3 – Taking the Turns
Insecticides and Other Toxins: Greyhounds, because of their low body fat and fast metabolism, are especially sensitive to14

insecticides and other substances. The substances to watch out for are:•Flea and Tick Products – DO NOT USE FLEA COLLARS. Flea collars contain chemicals that go directly into a
Greyhound’s bloodstream and can cause serious health problems and possibly death. Flea and tick shampoos
and sprays that are safe are those with PYRETHRINS as the main ingredient. Flea Dip your Greyhound only ifnecessary. Usually, a bath with a flea shampoo is sufficient. You can also try citrus-based products. DO NOT
use any flea/tick products that contain organophosphates. Carbaryl is an example of an organophosphatecommonly found in flea powder, some shampoos and sprays. The long-acting flea and tick products may beunsafe for Greyhounds as well. Seek the advice of GPAGNW on a particular product if you have any doubt of its
safety.
Cedar is a natural flea repellant and can be used in bedding. However, some Greyhounds are allergic to cedar,so watch for any skin reactions if you choose to use cedar bedding.

•
•
•
•

Diatomaceous earth (found in health food stores) can be dusted onto rugs, furniture, bedding, etc. It is harmlessto pets and people and kills fleas. Borax is also good for this purpose. Care should be taken not to get any ofthese products in the dog’s eyes.
Lawn Chemicals – can be fatal to Greyhounds. Do not allow your Greyhound to walk on any chemically treated areas
while the grass is still wet. Lawn services are required to mark treated areas with yellow flags.
Chocolate – contains theobromine, a substance that is toxic to dogs. Chocolate should be kept out of reach at
all times. Special attention needs to be taken during holidays.
Paints – exposure to all oil base paints can cause a variety of reactions in your dog. If you are painting yourhome, it is best to arrange to safely have your Greyhound elsewhere. If this is not possible, your Greyhoundshould be put in a safe and well-ventilated area of the house away from the fumes.
Household chemicals – many harsh detergents and chemicals are used in connection with house cleaning andhome remodeling. For example, if you use the continuous cleaning type of toilet chemicals, make sure the toilet
seat is kept down.

Little Things – Big Problems: Sometimes the little things in everyday life can lead to big problems for your Greyhound. The
following is a list of some things to BEWARE of:

•
•
•
•
•

•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Barbed Wire Fences – Greyhounds might see something on the other side of the fence and begin the chase. At fullspeed, he cannot see the fence and will crash into it. The result is usually very serious.
Birdbaths – do not allow your Greyhound to drink out of the birdbath. The stagnant water combined with the bird
droppings can lead to serious illness.
Sticks and Stones – it is a good idea to keep the twigs, small branches and stones picked up in the yard. Whileracing around, your Greyhound can hit them or step on them; this can lead to serious injury.
Cleaning Solutions – the bucket of scrub water may seem innocent to you but if your Greyhound decides to lap
some up, serious or fatal injuries may result.
Outdoor Grills – keep your Greyhound inside while grilling. Your steak dinner might be his if you turn your backfor a moment. The fire is dangerous and if the Greyhound gets into the lighter fluid there could be serious injury.
Also, don’t use your outdoor grill as a storage area –for example, do not temporarily store a bottle of bug killer thatyou don’t want your Greyhound to get into. There have been instances of a very determined Greyhoundopening the lid to get at the item and the Greyhound has been accidentally poisoned.
Swimming Pools – Greyhounds are not the best swimmers. Be careful about leaving them unattended in the
backyard with a pool. Usually, once your Greyhound finds out he can’t walk on water, he will steer clear of thepool.
Lawn Chemicals – use extreme caution! Coming in contact with a freshly treated lawn can cause allergic reactions
or a debilitating illness involving the central nervous system.
Bee Stings – yes, Greyhounds get stung too. Remove the stinger and ice the sight. Watch for signs of allergic
reaction and consult your vet if necessary.
Recliners – make sure your Greyhound is not in the way when you let the chair down. They like to lay close to
your feet and could be in jeopardy of a smashed nose, tail or paw.
Kitchen Floors – Greyhounds like to be around their family in the kitchen. Usually, right in the middle of the
kitchen floor. This can be dangerous while you are cooking. If you trip on your Greyhound with a hot pot in yourhands, the result could be serious injury to both of you!
Car Windows – do not allow your Greyhound to hang his head out of the window while you are driving. Sticks,
stones, or bugs could hit his eyes and/or face and cause injury.
Lawn Equipment – while using power lawn equipment, keep your Greyhound inside. Flying debris can cause

15serious injury.
Care and Grooming: Greyhounds are used to being handled at the track, making it easy for you to groom your Greyhound.
Some Greyhound owners take their Greyhound to the groomers for baths and nail clipping. However, due to the
Greyhound’s short hair, bathing your Greyhound is a very easy procedure. Nail clipping can be a bit trickier, but withpractice, can also be done at home. The following are a few things to help you in grooming your Greyhound.

•

Ears –You should use cotton balls and a mild ear cleaning solution. Dampen the cotton ball with the solution andgently clean inside the flap on your Greyhound’s ears. NEVER stick anything in your Greyhound’s ears, as damage
can result. If you feel that your Greyhound may have deeply imbedded dirt inside his ear, a few drops of the cleaning
solution dropped directly into the ear canal and massaged on the outside will allow your Greyhound to “shake out”
some of the dirt. Your vet or groomer should do extensive ear cleaning.

•

Nails – Your Greyhound will need to have its nails cut at least once a month. Greyhound toes and nails are
longer than those of the average dog but still need to be clipped. You should keep styptic powder on hand in case
you clip too short, as it seems Greyhound nails clipped back too far will bleed forever. In a pinch, flour,cornstarch, or chalk will work. Although a “quicked” nail will bleed quite a bit, remember that no Greyhound has
ever died from loss of blood due to a “quicked” nail! Your veterinarian or a GPAGNW representative can show
you how to properly cut your Greyhound’s nails.

•

Skin – Greyhound’s past living conditions (fleas, ticks, poor food, etc.) is not conducive to good skin. A supplement
such as Omega 3 fatty acids or coconut oil added to the food is good for the skin. If skin problems persist, please
consult with your vet. Your Greyhound could be suffering from low thyroid (hypothyroid) or have an allergy.

•

Bathing – Greyhounds have very little oil in their skin, so they have little “doggy odor”. He’s fine with his routine
petting and brushing. When bathing a Greyhound, a mild shampoo that is recommended for puppies, will be safe
for your Greyhound.
• NOTE: Warm bathing water may cause your Greyhound to become very relaxed and may lean on
you and may even fall over, try a cooler water temperature and make sure you have a firm grip duringbathing.

•Brushing – You should brush your Greyhound once a week or more frequently if you desire. Use a hound’s glove
or a dog brush. You can also use a flea comb. These items really help to pull out the dead fur and reduce
shedding.

•

Teeth - Greyhounds have notoriously bad teeth when they come off the track as they've been fed a lot of soft(raw) food. Your Greyhound’s teeth have been cleaned before you adopted him, but their teeth get plaque buildup just like yours. Brushing them regularly helps them to stay clean and healthy. Another way to keep teeth clean
is to buy knuckle/soup marrow bones at your supermarket, gnawing on these raw bones help to keep off any
plaque. Bad breath is a sign of mouth problems, so please check with your vet when your dog breaths on you
and you gag.

CHAPTER 4 – Crossing the Finish Line
Tattoos: All racing Greyhounds born in the United States are registered with the National Greyhound Association in
Abilene, Kansas. To provide positive identification they are tattooed in both ears when about 2 months old. The left ear is
tattooed with the litter identification number assigned by the NGA. All Greyhounds in the same litter will have that number.
The tattoo in the right ear tells the Greyhound’s age. It consists of the numbers 1 through 12 for the months of the year,
followed by the last digit of the year of birth. For example, 102 would indicate the Greyhound was born in October 2002
while 61 would indicate June 2001. To differentiate between Greyhounds in the same litter, a letter follows the month andyear. Therefore, Greyhounds in the same litter would all have the same tattoos as far as litter registration number, month,and year, but would be differentiated from each other by a letter of the alphabet. Thus, no one can ever lie about a
Greyhound’s true age, nor can dogs be “switched” in a race as tattoos are checked prior to the start of each race.
True, the numbers representing years repeat after ten years, but it is very easy to differentiate between a 12-year old
Greyhound and a 2-year old.
Other countries have different registration systems. For example, Irish Greyhounds are also tattooed in their ears,
however the Irish registry uses a series of letters rather than numbers and the tattoos can only be interpreted with theaid of the registry itself.

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In Closing: Recognizing the adjustment period and successfully managing it without undue stress is a very important part of
the Greyhound adoption process. It must be remembered that becoming a house pet involves a very dramatic change inroutine for your Greyhound. He has never been in a home before. He has no idea who you are or why you are taking him tosome place so strange. Also, he does not know what on earth you want him to do. He is baffled, a little nervous, and a little
scared. Greyhounds are very sensitive and intuitive dogs with a lot of smarts. They can open gates, cage doors,
refrigerators, drawers, trash cans, and all kinds of containers. The Greyhound is an observer of everything. The eyes andthe brain are working all the time, even when they sleep. And sleep, by the way, is what they do best - besides loving you!
Upside down resting is a Greyhound trait. The third eyelid will appear, followed by a lolling tongue. Don’t be alarmed! They
are not dead, just off somewhere chasing bunnies! By the way, being curious and careless are Greyhound traits also.
Noses get into everything!
Greyhounds are not guard dogs. Sometimes they will bark when someone approaches the door. But more likely they are
fast asleep. Most people will think twice about entering a home that has a dog the size of a Greyhound. The showing ofteeth is generally considered a smile, which is a common trait of the Greyhound. The Greyhound has a heart the size ofa human’s and is sixty-five percent muscle. They smile, laugh, grumble, growl, yodel and whimper in an attempt tocommunicate. These are not aggressive acts.
Cat-like, they will sometimes ignore you. Don’t be offended or hurt; this is their temperament. “You threw the ball, you go get
the ball” is the way they seem to think. Besides, they never got a chance to play ball while they were working. Your
Greyhound might be compared to a child in that they can have very selective hearing. Keep in mind that a Greyhound will
fix its sight on whatever it takes an interest in and will tend to crash into or step on anything and everything in its path.
Getting tangled up in things is a favorite pastime. Your Greyhound has never played, so take the time to teach your
Greyhound how. He will fill your days with countless hours of enjoyment and fun!
Chances are you will have few if any problems at all with your Greyhound. We are ALL still learning about these beautiful
creatures and appreciate your information and funny stories. And pictures are a greyt joy to us!
If you ever have any questions or concerns, or if you’d just like to share something with us, remember that yourGPAGNW representatives are only a telephone call or an email away!
CONTACT US

Spokane, WA
Tim Devine – President(509) 533-6966
tarstarkus@comcast.net

Tacoma, WA
Lori Bigler – Vice President(206) 588-9459
lorib206@msn.com

Spokane, WA
Mason McCuddin – Vice President(509) 448-7768
racinmason@hotmail.com

Seattle, WA
Bruce Caplin - Secretary(206) 972-1918
bruce@brucecaplin.com

Post Falls, ID
Donna Beckman(208) 699-0549

bringonthedogs@yahoo.com

Renton, WA
Heather Geisert(206) 375-0225
Kent, WA
Lenore Goff
(253) 631-5243

artpatjohnson@gmail.com

Kent, WA
Sheryl Tack(206) 300-7236

Bayview, ID
Pat Johnson(509) 270-1332

h626rau@gmail.com

lgoff58@yahoo.com

pnwtack@comcast.net

North Seattle, WA
Anna Heinrichs(206) 604-7896
anna.p.heinrichs@gmail.com

Thank you to Heart of Texas Greyhound Adoption, the Greyhound Gang, and Rocky Mountain Greyhound Adoption for theuse of their Greyhound Guides as the basis for this manual.

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Revised January 202218